Dutch Model 1871/88 Beaumont Restoration
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- The Beaumont rifle was adopted by the Netherlands as the Model 1871. In an era where many smaller countries adopted designs from Mauser and Remington in particular, it was a domestic design by Edouard de Beaumont. The rifle was a single shot breech loading bolt action firing an 11mm cartridge. In the 1880's, firearms technology was rapidly evolving as powers adopted smokeless powder and magazine rifles. As a stop gap until a new rifle design could be obtained, roughly half of the Netherlands's Beaumont rifles were modified to fit the Vitali magazine. These rifles continued to serve the Dutch army until they were replaced by the Mannlicher Model 1895, a bolt action smokeless powder repeating rifle.
This rifle in particular was made in 1877. While complete, it's in generally poor condition with surface rust replacing the original finish, the bore extremely dirty and the stock cracked in two areas. I work to restore the rifle back to functional condition, eventually loading the cartridges and test shooting.
Follow up video with more detail on how to form and reload casings:
• Dutch Model 1871/88 Be...
DISCLAIMER
All subjects featured on this channel are shown for historical and informational purposes only. All gunsmithing work is intended to restore the item to it's original condition, never modifying to serve any other purpose. In no way, shape or form is anything featured on this channel ever intended to be sold at any time. Any messages regarding selling a firearm, ammunition or an accessory will be removed. Everything shown is legal where the creator is located, please check your local laws.
00:00 Intro
00:50 Markings
02:45 Function check
04:55 Disassembly
10:06 Bore cleaning
11:49 Further disassembly
16:07 Conversion process
22:38 Stock repairs
25:08 Conversion results
27:33 Stock results
28:51 Reassembly
35:58 Loading
40:06 Shooting
42:05 Conclusion - Наука та технологія
I'm from the Netherlands. Near the village I grew up was a forrest that used to be a shooting range from 1880 till 1975. We found a lot of Beaumont cases with our metal detectors. Even a few live rounds. Also alot of blanks. Those were interesting shaped with a fake bullet made of 4 extensions on the case mouth. I fired a Beaumont one time on a range 20 years ago. Nice piece of Dutch heritage 😀
That bore condition is amazing considering the age of that gun. Would really like to see you use hollow ground screwdrivers for your smithing. Saves the screw heads from damage. Neat thing about those old guns is they were all machined parts. No stampings or castings or plastics.
The screwdrivers I use are parallel tip, made by PB Swiss.
And yes there's a quality to each and every part on these rifles
Good evening from the Netherlands, they cracking around they magazine well is very comen and has a couple rezones, yes they cut it shelf makes it a week point but also they cut it self might touch they magazine, when firing they forse transmitted bij they mag into they stock whil crack it, check if te relief is not to thighed, you might try to silver solder a new pice of rod to they barrel band spring, whit my beaomond i had to make a new spring out of a pice of flatbar (springstheel of coarse). Nice gun and a 10+ for they effort, it's appreciated
Well, if there's anything I've learned handloading for these types of rifles is that necessity is the mother of invention.
Very true!
a sealed bearing lubrication syringe would be perfect for injecting resin into those cracks. just make sure to clean out the syringe before and after, and write "RESIN ONLY" on the side so people don't think you are a junky. always awkward when someone sees your stash of thin needle syringes in your shop lol
Looks good. You didn’t go to far and ruin it. Good job.
Congratulations on your restore. I just finished my own Beaumont. We all have different methods and results vary as expected. I did find that the rifle was originally issued in the white so I have polished the barrel and action accordingly. It looks really great but I haven't fired it yet. My stock wasn't cracked but I did have that problem on another gun. Like you I used epoxy but I also used a Dremel tool and a very fine wire as a bit to drill small holes for a wire reinforcement. Worked great.
Good luck getting some rounds down range. It's always a great feeling to take a project to fruition!
Thank you! I'm finishing up another video on forming brass from 50/90 cases. Will post soon.
Really enjoy watching your restorations. I've seen people try to sand or spot weld pitting away, which just seems like its asking for trouble. Your solutions in comparison seem much more pragmatic.
Its mostly ok unless its the
Barrel: can induce warp
Receiver: ruins the heat treat
Bolt: ruins heat treat
Man that's so cool! I've been wanting to get one of these rifles for a while now but congrats on the find and thank you for the video! Great as always!
well done, simpathetic restoration.
Thankyou very much for taking us through a step by step guide 🤝👍
Really great work on the restoration! And ty for going to the effort of making the video.
I’ve been restoring these rifles to shooting condition since my first one in 1975. I form my own brass (though I have had some formed for me by others), use off-the-shelf 300-350 grain cast lead bullets intended for 45/70, use 2f bp or appropriate smokeless and/or my own ‘duplex’ loads if I only have 1f, and use 45/70 ‘trapdoor’ data up to to SAMMI max. Always had excellent results, even with the many cut-down/sporterized ‘carbines’. The guns are just plain fun to shoot. Secret is to not be timid with the loads. These rifles need speed to get the bullet spinning for stability. And, take not if that deep rifling - you need a good oversized or additionally paper-patched bullet to really bite that rifling to get best results. Typically, even at my age, I can usually keep a 2”-3” group at 50yds with 10 shots … good enough for me 😁
I will add one thing that you folks with an interest in these rifles may run into - broken or very weak bolt springs. This spring is concealed within the bolt handle - just like with the Murata from Japan. You can’t get a new one. But you can easily make one from just about any sidelock muzzleloader. All you need to do is file and shape the donor lock spring to conformation to the Beaumont spring and you’re good to go.
A trick for getting glue into small cracks is to put to the glue in and then give it a blast with canned air, it'll push the glue in deeper than you can reach, but it can be messy.
That was an extremely interesting video. I liked that you explained everything in detail . Thank you and good luck on the accuracy quest.
I flipping luv this guy I would love to give this man honorary American citizenship just as a show of love
Love your stuff. Good job !
Looks like a very fun project!
The bores on these rifles are usually in very good condition. Unlike the Italian Vetterli conversion the Dutch did not add a steel surround to the magazine cut out. Cracks are all too common. The extractor is loose in the action and frequently missing. Prospective buyers should check for its presence. The lump behind the bolt handle strengthen the action and was added with the magazine conversion and the magazine cut-off. The rifle was loaded with four-cartridge chargers, a close copy of the Italian Vitali chargers. The magazine had a baked-on (?) black finish. The rest of the rifle was in the white.
Beautifull and high quality rifles.
Extremely interesting, thank you
Very cool conservation.
I have watched a few of your videos now and really enjoyed all of them. Many years ago I restored an M1 Carbine and I did attempt to cold blue the metal however I was never content with the finish. Getting a consistent finish that looked like it had a bit of depth was not easy. Unfortunately self loading rifles were banned here in the UK back in the 1990's so I suspect it got cut up. For the full bore bolt action rifles I had a lot of success with lead bullets and gas checks.
For smaller bore cartridges I've had success with cast and gas checked bullets. I do need to experiment more with them though
HELLO everyone i bought one of these a few years ago what a fantastic rifle it was in relatively good condition to but it also had a crack on one side in the magazine area which i was quietly hoping wouldn't be there. cleaned the barrel out and you should have seen all the dust and nicotine fluff and shit that came out but wow the rifling is brand new took the bolt out and took it to work and threw it the parts washer and then re oiled it thought it was a wiser thing to do than pull it all to bits (im not a gun Smith)and bugger it up linseeded the stock finally oil the barrel and stuck a ear plug in the muzzle to stop damp getting in. a lovely rifle everyone who sees it says wow beautiful rifle how old is it
I love this video!
Well done!
Great video. I have a bayonet for one of these in my collection - I should try to find one of these rifles to go along with it! Thanks again for the video.
Really enjoying your videos. I am going to buy a lebel 1886 in the new year, so your tips will come in very handy. Bon fete et bon fin annee'
Great stuff tou earned yourself a sub
The cracks in the Beaumont conversions are about as common as the cracks in the Italian Vetterli conversions.
The Italian Vetterli-Vitali upgraded the original single shot Vetterli with the addition of the Italian Vitali magazine design. The magazine cut out had a corresponding steel shield screwed to the stock to strengthen it in that area. Beautiful rifles. I have yet to see one with the stock cracked. The Dutch did not strengthen their stock and cracks were all too common.
Beautiful conservation, I was just wondering about the brass. How can you covert 50-90 sharps brass into a bottle necked brass ? That seems very hard !
With the appropriate loading dies and a strong press, it's not that hard to reform the brass.
The problem, as noted by Rakum, is that dies are hard to come by. The wait is around 2 years right now. I have been on the list going on a year myself.
Thanks! I'll be covering how I converted 50-90 to 11x52 in a future video, due out as soon as I can get back to the range.
@@rakumprojects @GIJeaux1 thanks to both of you for the answer. I'm wondering if I can find such dies here in Europe. Have a great day !
Tractor Supply sells LEGIT veterinary syringes and needles. A 1 or 3 ml syringe with an 18 to 10 gauge needle works good for the gel and 20-22 gauge for the liquid. Just an FYI.
You boiled the parts correctly and then carded them as you should have. After that, you left the finish alone. Good man! That stock? minus the cracks, some Murphy's oil soap and some stock wax should do the trick and that stock will look gorgeous. I find that using a toilet flange wax ring with some slight heat makes for some excellent improvised stock wax. Good job!
Maybe I'm used to rifles in worse condition but other than the cracks the stock was in good shape. Maybe one day I can oil or wax it though.
Collectors are looking for, and will always be looking for originality. As soon as something is altered from its original state, down goes its value and desirability. For example, ALL auction and vintage firearms sellers will note if an item has been reblued, and its value is downgraded accordingly. Commentators such as Mark Novak, Backyard Ballistics and even Ian McCollum have said the same.
If you can get the accuracy sorted then this would make a fantastic deer rifle.
I won't call that a restoration but a thorough cleaning, as this rifle was more dirty than really rusted, but good job anyway, though I'm pretty sure it could be really restored. Anyway, you didn't spend much on it and it's a good thing because though the Beaumont rifles are well made weapons, their historical interest is very limited as they weren't used in any major conflict. I still wonder why the engineers adopted such kind of bolt spring, as it is rather complicated to disassemble and replace if broken or lost, and because of it, it is impossible to have a bent bolt knob for cavalry carbines. That's one of the reasons why the French army rejected it when it was decided to replace the Chassepot. About the broken pin, you really tried a complicated way as such pins are really easy to find. If you can't find a genuine Beaumont pin, try a pin coming from another rifle, I won't be surprised a pin of French Gras 1874 would do, and it still would be better than your solution. To give you an example, I once replaced a similar broken pin on a French An IX rifle dating of the napoleonic era with a Gras pin, slightly reworked. And believe me, nobody can tell the difference !
I wonder how electrolysis would work on the heavy rust. For brass, sometimes Buffalo Arms has brass made from 50-90 brass. Sometimes brass can be found on gunbroker. That's where I got 40 pieces for mine.
I've been experimenting with the 50-90 brass that I have. Will be releasing a follow up video in the next few weeks.
I think this gun was originally finished in white due to the underside of the barrel not being blued at all.
Great video, were these originally blued or was all the metal originally white? Also, does mineral spirits work as well as kerosene?
I learned that these were left in the white except for the rear sight. I couldn't tell on my rifle due to the rust.
Mineral spirits would likely work to remove oils
Fantastic video as always. If I may add some advice when you did the conversion and you were carding off the parts on the bottom of the magazine and the trigger guard there was still quite a large amount of rust scale present. You need to get under that because there’s still active rust underneath.
Thanks! I'll keep an eye on them and re-convert if needed
@@rakumprojectsusually requires a scrape tool such as a piece of brass and you crush the case mouth to give it a point edge similar to a knife edge. 30-06 or 50 BMG or similar will do.
@@jacksonthompson7099 I like to use an older copper penny for that. Works well
@@rakumprojects perfectly valid method! Didn't know you also used it on steel from what i've seen. Nice man, looking forward to seeing more vids and projects from you. Gonna binge more of your vids when I get some free time.
These rifles were not blued. They were issued "in the white". The magazine was the only blued part as far as I know. Mine is still in the white but, the magazine bluing is worn off which, is common, because the bluing was not very good to begin with.
Thanks for the info!
@@rakumprojectsI would like to add that, the rear sight leaf was flame blued so, there was one part other than the magazine.
I really enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.
@@GIJeaux1 Thanks! Now that you mention it, I can see a very slight difference in the surface finish between the sight leaf and the base.
So much info! I love this channel.
I'm not versed in gun manufacturing and I've never heard of "in the white". What does that mean/look like if you don't mind me asking?
A local shop has one of these thats in good shape and at a decent price but the stock is sporterized. Id really like to have one, but I dont think I will ever find a stock for it
26:55 I bought a shotgun once where the previous owner had scratched his name and social security number into the barrel under the hand-guard.
thank god you are exist
Amazing job can I ask where you got your carting wheel from and what’s the exact name of it
Both Midway and Brownells have it in stock now. It's a 6" diameter wheel with 4 rows of .003" wire. It's made by Grobet and the part number is 16.463
@@rakumprojects thank you really appreciate it
You can use cigarette papers for the patches.
The 4 digit number is the serial number. The 3 digit number is an assembly number as all rifles of the day were hand fitted before considered done.
Thanks for the info! I had it backwards
@@rakumprojects i hope i didnt sound rude. Its a great video and i enjoyed watching it. I have several Beaumonts. I have OCD too!
@@thomasozminkowski2589 Not at all. I was unsure of it in the video, so to now know for sure what they mean is great
My bores slugged at .450 groove dia. I run a bullet sized to .452
That started out as an RTI A grade rifle lol
Imagen creating rare ammo and selling it on the wide market, im sure it would be a huge profit
"Won it at an auction for pretty cheap."
J.F.J. Bar was not the producer of this gun. He owned a workshop for hand guns (revolvers). The gun was produced in the Constructie Werkplaats Delft founded around 1670. This was a large production facility for artillery, ammunition, small arms and other military utensils. On the stocks there should be a sign WD which means Werkplaats Delft. There is not given an indication of the producer on the receiver, like there is for the Steven’s weapons.
I myself shoot at a range of 50m and have my rear sight set at just above the 3 mark (left side of the sight). If you are interested I can send you pictures if the marks and sight setting.
Thanks for the info. It was actually pretty tough to find information on these rifles, do you know of any books on them?
I'm headed back to the range soon and will try out various sight settings. Also bringing a very large target.
@@rakumprojects Almost all literature of this weapon I found is written in Dutch. When available in English you probably already found it on internet. I have some copies of schedule drawings in a scale of 1:2, but they are on A1 paper. If you are interested I can let them scan for pdf transfer. Furthermore I have some literature about the ammunition, but texts are in French.
@@tibortarnoczy3394 Yes, of course! My email is in my bio
I’d like to send you some info (files) about the Beaumont, but I can’t find your email address.
@@tibortarnoczy3394 It's rakumprojects@gmail.com
The barrel number and buttplate number are rack or inventory numbers and nothing more. Most militaries did similar at the time.
Brass is available from Bertram in Australia.
Yes, looks like they make it but I wasn't able to find any available in the US
@@rakumprojects - that's odd, Bertam USA list it; it's listed as 43 Beau. Buffalo Arms list cases, I've also made it from 32 gauge Magtech shotgun brass!
@@OldSmokey1953 I just picked up some 32 gauge brass
@@rakumprojectsBlack powder shooting seems to be very popular in Australia and brass is available in a number of black powder calibers. I’m right here in the US and I order from Northern Shooters Supply in Australia. They are easy to deal with and the only complication is that they cannot ship to certain jurisdictions in the USA. They leave that up to you to send them a signed letter that you can legally purchase ammo where you reside. I’m in PA so no problem. You then order with a credit card and voila the mailman shows up with your brass. It takes time as the guys at Northern need to get an export permit so allow six weeks. Since they would still need only one export permit for a container load of brass it pays to get friends together and place one order.
It takes time but the brass is of superb quality and I’d rather be shooting than doing cartridge conversions and annealing and so on.
I make my brass from 32 guage shotgun shells Made by Magtech
If yours is in poor shape. I have one that is chopped up and missing the bolt. I definitely paid way too much for it due to the lack of parts ($100)
This is a B+ Grade from Royal Tiger Import. lol
Why didn’t you clean the wood? Lemon oil works well.
I didn't think it needed it. It's in pretty good condition other than the cracks
@@rakumprojects It definitely is in really good condition. I am not criticizing I was just curious. Keep up the good videos!
I'm missing my front barrel band & swivel... just in case anyone has found it 👈 👈 👈
Fantastic! Lovely video, I’ll be subscribing!
But please be careful wearing gloves around spinning equipment, better to get a scuffed hand than to lose a finger.
The Crack is common.
Just how cheap did you get this rifle?
I think it was $225
I've seen them go for €500 on average last year for similar condition beaumonts but without a cracked stock
@@rakumprojects That's a good price for antique rifle.
@@rgbgamingfridge Must be a difference in location. Beaumonts in good shape usually go for around $4-500 in the US. I got this one for cheap but it wasn't a screaming deal due to the amount of work it needed.
@@rakumprojects No doubt, people here ask €1000 for one in good condition
This was probably what the Dutch used to invade my homeland
WRONG - ALWAYS clean the bore from the breach whenever possible
You left the barrel and action looking like crap.....thats not restoration...that's sloppy and lazy!
Restoration in the title is only for views it's actually a conservation to stop decay which should be clear if you watched the video. It's not sloppy or lazy; it's the minimal effort you could do to preserve it. If you want to restore such things to new condition it's gonna take an eternity. Why don't you show us how it's done then? I'd gladly watch your video on it.
My definition of restoration is to get the rifle back to firing condition as well as to preserve it for the future. If I brought this rifle back to like new condition, that would erase all of the history it accumulated over 150 years.
And if you restored it. It would reduce the value.
@@p47rr depends on the condition and restoration itself. If everything is done period correctly including restamping and bluing process etc. it might add value but you often still lose money in the progress or a lot of time if you can do it yourself.
@@rgbgamingfridgeno. restoration always decrease value