I live 20 minutes from Buffalo Arms. It's very nice having them so close when I need stuff for my own Remington rolling block or my other black powder rifles, because when the website shows not in stock, you can most of the time knock on their door and they'll fix you up in a few hours.
My dad was a full blood Swede, mom was half German and half French/Canadian, so I have a love for everything Swedish, I have owned the 6.5 Swedish Mauser as well as their Semi-auto, in fact I took a couple white tail with the semi-auto in 6.5, a really fine round for deer, soft shooting, very accurate and deadly if shot placement is proper. I have always wanted a rolling block but never had the opportunity to own one, now days with the price of guns and my now limited retirement income the chances of owning one are slim to none, but should the chance of snagging one in 6.5, I think I might well sell of a few computers or perhaps a gun or two to raise the funds. Great video on the recovery of a fine old firearm, and it appears a fun shooter, wish I could get to the range more but the cancer that hit me a couple years ago left me, well a bit out of shape for shooting fun any more. I sold off most of my guns before the price went nuts, story of my life but kept my old .45's from my cop days and a little .22 revolver just for fun and of course dad's old .22 that is about ready to head up to my grandsons as they are coming of shooting age, and that has been the plan since they were born.
Such great craftsmanship. And what an absolutely ingenious and simple locking mechanism. I happen to live about 1h30m from Huskvarna. You got me thinking maybe I should go check out their museum.
Properly cared for, a Rolling Block is virtually indestructible. What I saw here is not a restoration but a good cleaning of a rifle which was only dirty and with a light veil of rust. And what a complicated work for the cleaning rod ! Most of the Rolling Block cleaning rods are similar, if not the same, and an original is still quite easy to find. When I bought my French army Egyptian Rolling Block thirty years ago, it didn't have its rod either, but I found one, original, without any problem... interesting film anyway, and a great respect paid to this rifle, a thing we don't see so often now on UA-cam. So, well done, mate !
I've redone a couple of these over the years. I did an old civilian sale Rolling Block that never left the US and was in .43 Spanish. Turns out many were sold here in the US in the 1870's because not all of the early Remington made guns for foreign countries left the US. I needed to do some spring work on it and shot that one for a while. Then I redid a #4 Rolling Block in .22LR for my son. That one I got cheap because it worked but there was something wrong with the spring. So I took it apart and some time during its life the sear spring snapped off and the owner took to other springs from whatever he had, laid them over each other so they functioned but it had a heavy trigger pull. I replaced the springs with some older ones I found and now it shoots great. I've got a .32 rimfire #4 I've gotten shells for that uses a .22 Short as a blank and it's filled with black powder and either a heeled .32 bullet or a .310 roundball compressed on to the powder. It works great out to 25 yards.
I have a baby RB in 32. I converted it to centerfire shoots 32 long brass shortened the case a tad have a old skinny long scope. A J.W. Fecker. It's soots good.
I'm not a gun smith nor a rolling block enthusiest but I couldn't stop watching this video Great job and congrats on the functioning rifle :) Well I guess I'm going to have to binge watch some of your videos now LOL Thanks for the great video :)
I'm late to this party but so cool to watch. I happened upon the French gunsmiths rolling block video and saw your comments about hoping to acquire one of these, Too cool!
Excellent reconditioning job. I picked up a valuable tip from your video during reassembly. I have a Model 1867 Swedish in .50-70 and a Danish Rolling Block in 8X58R. May I suggest a couple things to do in reloading, to improve accuracy? First, you shouldn't have any resistance when chambering a round. None. So, size the cases all the way to the head. Then, chuck each case in your drill press and use a good file to reduce the rim diameter a bit. Chamber the case and repeat until the case literally falls into the chamber. Mike the diameter and repeat with all your cases. Trust me, you'll see why. You won't have to resize much after the cases are fire-formed. Next, measure the bullets as you intend to fire them- after sizing, or no sizing, whatever. Get an expander plug from RCBS a thousandth larger. Use this to expand the case as far as you will be seating the bullet. This will avoid distorting the bullet while seating and destroying your rifle's accuracy. Get or make a belling tool to bell the case mouth slightly before you seat the bullet. This also will improve accuracy. Seat with a punch that matches your bullet configuration. You will probably experiment with seating depth, crimp or not, amount of powder, etc. Your rifle is quality. It should deliver 100-yd. groups of 2" or 3". But, you gotta do your part. That's a pretty rifle. Good luck.
Great video. I have one of these that externally is pristine and mechanically as new. Unfortunately it is severely pitted just ahead of the chamber. The pit is about 3/8 inch diameter and almost down to the outer barrel wall. I wanted to use it, but in my country it required proofing. A specialist gunsmith examined it and said the proof house would refuse to test it. Now it’s a wall hanger. I’ve examined several at arms fairs with pristine barrels but worn finish or mechanically poor. Too expensive to buy to swap parts. Still looking though. Thanks for posting in such a detailed and methodical way. 👍🏻
Very cool, thank you. I have an old rolling block hanging on my wall right now. Couldn't help looking at it the whole time I watched you. Mine actually is in great shape and could be shot as is...I just don't have anyway to load my own rounds. Can't see buying everything for the one gun though. It was still very enjoyable watching your video. 👍
You might look into how the buffalo hunters did it with minimalist equipment. I have seen it done with a nail to punch out the expended primers and a wooden dowel to seat the new ones. You would then measure the powder and dump it in. Many modern black powder shooters use an over the powder wad with a pea sized or smaller dab of black powder lube on top of the wad. Then the properly sized bullet is simply pressed down on top of all of the aforementioned, making certain that it is very firmly seated in order to compress the powder. By the way after you have fired you have fired each round its an excellent idea to drop the empty casing immediately into a jug of water with dish soap added because black powder is very corrosive and will ruin your casings otherwise. On straight wall cartridges a crimp would be optimal but not absolutely necessary in single shot rifles. There should be some good videos on how too's! Also some old books are available.
Husqvarna kept on making guns up until 1989. Just remember that the calibre of the barrel isn't actually .50 when sourcing bullets, but .479 .41 old Swedish factory decimal inches. They repurposed the barrels from the 1860 muzzle, and 1864 chamber loading rifles in inventory.
The bore (groove to groove) on mine measures around .512". They did re-use barrels from older rifles, but this isn't one of them. Those are usually identifiable from the rear band being just a few inches ahead of the receiver.
@@rakumprojects Excellent! That definitely makes life easier for you I wonder what batch that was made in. I have rebarrelled one of my m/1861 rifles with an 1867 barrel and although it's clearly not a reused ML barrel, it is certainly in .479 bore.
I have one, found it in the ground when digging for a new waterpipe some 20 years ago, rusted too far to get going but its a nice wall hanger, managed to make it look clean and some parts working.
A very sweet Swedish rolling block! as near to perfect as possible after 150+ years. The only addition I would make to your restoration would be a stock treatment of linseed oil. Beautiful gun and respectable shooting!!
I have a 12,17x44r CF, Carbine, and an 1867/95 8×58r Rifle. The Rifle is Ex.Con. Blue, and the Carbine is used " in the White" I dismantled using Chapman and Webster Gun Screw Drivers, with exact slot fit an width. No rust on Rifle ( looks Factory, unused), but the Carbine is well used ( no rust) Have made 8x58RD ammo for the Rifle ( from Starline .45/90 cases to get the full lenght). Lebel Military cases work for 12.17x44R Blanks BP. Hexx to clean afterward. Very strong positive actions. Comparison to M1902 7mm Rifle, and 1867/74 11mmx50R Egyptian...also a 1882 in 11mm Reformado ( Spanish) by Oviedo. Plus Five Receivers ( complete) M1914 8mm Lebel by Rem. Bought in Italy ( no barrels or woodwork...project for Film Guns, with Carbine, Musketoon and Long versions on either 50/70 Blank, or .45 calibre for "5-in-1" BP Blank...depends on Seamless Steel Tube or real Smoothbore Barrels ( not rifled) DocAV Australia
good job on the M1867! my stepfather have two rolling blocks and one of them was a M1867 but was converted to 12ga for hunting and the other was built by a smith a long time ago, sadly both have been deactivated(welded barrels) as hunting with these kind of rifles in Sweden are forbidden nowadays(hunting guns must have a ammo capacity more than one round). they could have been re-permitted for competition shooting at the range but my stepfather opted to have them plugged and under a memorial permit(required by law) as his father had them before him and grandfather had them before his father, stepfather just wanted to keep them as wallhangers.
I bought this gun for black powder cartridges some years ago. It looks like newer use before coming out of a arsenal. It was a nice gun shooting very well.
great recording of the restore process. i have a 2nd allen conversion trapdoor (1866). you need to use real BP. Pyrodex is not the same. 1.5F Olde Eynesfoes is great stuff, a card wad and lube pill under the boolit work wonders in keeping fouling soft for better shot/shot accuracy. nice rifle!!
well, you were lucky that the wood wasn,t moldy at some point, at the video and with all the rust it looked as if it was stored in an open room...whatever...you wire weeled it down anyways and it turned out to be a wuite nice piece with not too much work to do...and how white or finshed the surface eill nit make any difference in shooting, hiw you like the " restired" version and look is up to you👍nicely done ...basics well shown and good idea...if you ever wanna shiw case her you can just wash off the oil and polish and blue or brown her hiwerver you want...or stay as is as a historic piece...thanks, far better video than dudes who use all kind of needless shit on dead stuff...thanks! the rust conversion of the barrel was a bit tricky😁👍but you are a pro!
Muy buen trabajo !!!! Hace poco me regalaron uno , al que le estoy haciendo las partes de madera , por q no las tiene, esta en muy mal estado, pero para adorno va a servir , es un 43 spanish ! Abrazos desde argentina !!!!!
I picked up a sporterized one, years ago. Neat history. Mine had the chamber reamed for the 50-70 gov. The thing to be aware of is that the bores can be very tight. Mine measures .482 bore and .506 groove.
I have a French rolling block in 8mm LaBelle that just needed a good cleaning I also have a Mexican rolling block that looks like Pancho villa's army marched over covered with scratch and dings and no fireing pin and broken extractor the 3rd one I have is a Russian in7.62x54r it is almost in new condition it was just completely covered in cosmlene and cleaned up nicely
I'd be very interested in seeing pictures of the 7.62x54r rolling block. I've heard of them before but they're VERY hard to find even pictures of. My email is in my bio
@@rakumprojects I got it thru sarco about 10 yearsago I don't know if they have any more but you can try I love to send you a pic as soon as I get home from Japan in July I hope the gun grabbers don't get it
You did not show any cleaning of the bore. I'm sure you did, though, its the most important part of the rifle. BTW, the tight fit of the action parts illustrates how precise hand fitting, even on a mass-produced service rifle, was de rigueur in 1874 Sweden.
Nice looking rifle and good job cleaning it! The slight resistance when closing the breech looks similar to mine (Kongsberg Våpenfabrikk) if I use untrimmed .50-70 brass in it, so you might want to measure the chamber length and see if your cases need a bit of trimming. I generally go with 50 grs of Wano PPP (FFFg) behind a Lyman 515141 and cardboard "wad". Not much to gain by increasing the charge beyond that in my rifle, but your mileage may vary. Also, I do not really find it necessary to size the brass unless the cartridges get hard to load in the rifle. Not sizing the cases gives a little more room for the bullets when seated so that they won't deform.
I did have to trim the cases in the video to 42mm. At 44 the sticking was much more pronounced. That's a good tip about not sizing, I'll have to see if I can skip that step to make the brass last longer
hi there. nice job indeed and i love your presentation style. hey what was your carding wheel, grit size material ect. i'm having trouble finding such a thing here in N.Z but must be availiable. thanks.
You should look to see if you can find the original side bayonet for it instead of the one that attaches to the front site,but other than that that's a nice old rifle
You could have started your thread straight by clamping the rod in your lathe chuck then keep the die holder against the flat face of your tailstock screw.
In my restorations I try to be as minimally invasive as possible. I want the well used look without the rust that will cause further decay. I'm not after a fresh out of the factory look.
No! You can't. .43 spanish is a black powder round, .454 casull runs about 60,000 psi. If you want to do such a conversion, you HAVE to use an ORIGINAL smokeless powder action. Even then, you're pushing the limits of century ago metallurgy. 7mm Mauser and .303 brit max out at about 45k. Lebel and 7.62 russian about 40k at that time. That's commercial max loads. Every shot of a casull would be like a proof load in those actions. At best, you'd be battering the action to death slowly.
that thing looks as if it was in a wet basement for years🤬who sells such a gump! but a good piece for restauration, how bad was the bore? let.s see....
These are parallel tip screwdrivers made in Switzerland by PB Swiss. I strongly prefer dedicated screwdrivers over the generic gunsmith bit sets. And these don't damage screw slots.
Such a beautiful Rifle, with a HUGE round! Sure it's black powder, but man, that be a huge bullet, I can see why when guys got hit by those bullets back then those bullets tended to remove limbs when they encountered them. I love the old breach block rifles , like the Rotating block and the falling block Rifles, the late 1800s falling blocks were my favorite. Classical firearms at their best, for the 19th century anyways. very nice rifle, I'm really jealous.
I live 20 minutes from Buffalo Arms. It's very nice having them so close when I need stuff for my own Remington rolling block or my other black powder rifles, because when the website shows not in stock, you can most of the time knock on their door and they'll fix you up in a few hours.
My dad was a full blood Swede, mom was half German and half French/Canadian, so I have a love for everything Swedish, I have owned the 6.5 Swedish Mauser as well as their Semi-auto, in fact I took a couple white tail with the semi-auto in 6.5, a really fine round for deer, soft shooting, very accurate and deadly if shot placement is proper. I have always wanted a rolling block but never had the opportunity to own one, now days with the price of guns and my now limited retirement income the chances of owning one are slim to none, but should the chance of snagging one in 6.5, I think I might well sell of a few computers or perhaps a gun or two to raise the funds. Great video on the recovery of a fine old firearm, and it appears a fun shooter, wish I could get to the range more but the cancer that hit me a couple years ago left me, well a bit out of shape for shooting fun any more. I sold off most of my guns before the price went nuts, story of my life but kept my old .45's from my cop days and a little .22 revolver just for fun and of course dad's old .22 that is about ready to head up to my grandsons as they are coming of shooting age, and that has been the plan since they were born.
Such great craftsmanship. And what an absolutely ingenious and simple locking mechanism.
I happen to live about 1h30m from Huskvarna. You got me thinking maybe I should go check out their museum.
deras museum är Guld! var där i sommras fastnade där i säkert 5 timmar
Great job! Your video is perfect!
Calm voiceover, no stupid music, detailed and well paced video. Thanks for sharing this with us. 👍🏽👍🏽
Properly cared for, a Rolling Block is virtually indestructible. What I saw here is not a restoration but a good cleaning of a rifle which was only dirty and with a light veil of rust. And what a complicated work for the cleaning rod ! Most of the Rolling Block cleaning rods are similar, if not the same, and an original is still quite easy to find. When I bought my French army Egyptian Rolling Block thirty years ago, it didn't have its rod either, but I found one, original, without any problem... interesting film anyway, and a great respect paid to this rifle, a thing we don't see so often now on UA-cam. So, well done, mate !
Conservation is probably a better term
I've redone a couple of these over the years. I did an old civilian sale Rolling Block that never left the US and was in .43 Spanish. Turns out many were sold here in the US in the 1870's because not all of the early Remington made guns for foreign countries left the US. I needed to do some spring work on it and shot that one for a while. Then I redid a #4 Rolling Block in .22LR for my son. That one I got cheap because it worked but there was something wrong with the spring. So I took it apart and some time during its life the sear spring snapped off and the owner took to other springs from whatever he had, laid them over each other so they functioned but it had a heavy trigger pull. I replaced the springs with some older ones I found and now it shoots great. I've got a .32 rimfire #4 I've gotten shells for that uses a .22 Short as a blank and it's filled with black powder and either a heeled .32 bullet or a .310 roundball compressed on to the powder. It works great out to 25 yards.
I have a baby RB in 32. I converted it to centerfire shoots 32 long brass shortened the case a tad have a old skinny long scope. A J.W. Fecker. It's soots good.
@@jlyle51❤
No joke, one of my favorite vids on UA-cam. Well done and much appreciated! I know more today thanks to you 🎉
Swedish rolling block rocks !
I'm not a gun smith nor a rolling block enthusiest but I couldn't stop watching this video Great job and congrats on the functioning rifle :) Well I guess I'm going to have to binge watch some of your videos now LOL Thanks for the great video :)
Very good. Thank you for posting
I'm late to this party but so cool to watch. I happened upon the French gunsmiths rolling block video and saw your comments about hoping to acquire one of these, Too cool!
Excellent reconditioning job. I picked up a valuable tip from your video during reassembly. I have a Model 1867 Swedish in .50-70 and a Danish Rolling Block in 8X58R. May I suggest a couple things to do in reloading, to improve accuracy? First, you shouldn't have any resistance when chambering a round. None. So, size the cases all the way to the head. Then, chuck each case in your drill press and use a good file to reduce the rim diameter a bit. Chamber the case and repeat until the case literally falls into the chamber. Mike the diameter and repeat with all your cases. Trust me, you'll see why. You won't have to resize much after the cases are fire-formed. Next, measure the bullets as you intend to fire them- after sizing, or no sizing, whatever. Get an expander plug from RCBS a thousandth larger. Use this to expand the case as far as you will be seating the bullet. This will avoid distorting the bullet while seating and destroying your rifle's accuracy. Get or make a belling tool to bell the case mouth slightly before you seat the bullet. This also will improve accuracy. Seat with a punch that matches your bullet configuration. You will probably experiment with seating depth, crimp or not, amount of powder, etc. Your rifle is quality. It should deliver 100-yd. groups of 2" or 3". But, you gotta do your part. That's a pretty rifle. Good luck.
Great tips, thank you. I was more concerned about just shooting the rifle, but now I can proceed with tweaking things and pursuing accuracy.
Great video. I have one of these that externally is pristine and mechanically as new. Unfortunately it is severely pitted just ahead of the chamber. The pit is about 3/8 inch diameter and almost down to the outer barrel wall. I wanted to use it, but in my country it required proofing. A specialist gunsmith examined it and said the proof house would refuse to test it. Now it’s a wall hanger. I’ve examined several at arms fairs with pristine barrels but worn finish or mechanically poor. Too expensive to buy to swap parts. Still looking though. Thanks for posting in such a detailed and methodical way. 👍🏻
She's beautiful, congrats and great work as always😊
First time watching, really enjoyable vid. Thanks
Thanks,always enjoy your projects.
A very fine restoration, excellent work!
Very cool, thank you. I have an old rolling block hanging on my wall right now. Couldn't help looking at it the whole time I watched you. Mine actually is in great shape and could be shot as is...I just don't have anyway to load my own rounds. Can't see buying everything for the one gun though. It was still very enjoyable watching your video. 👍
You might look into how the buffalo hunters did it with minimalist equipment. I have seen it done with a nail to punch out the expended primers and a wooden dowel to seat the new ones. You would then measure the powder and dump it in. Many modern black powder shooters use an over the powder wad with a pea sized or smaller dab of black powder lube on top of the wad. Then the properly sized bullet is simply pressed down on top of all of the aforementioned, making certain that it is very firmly seated in order to compress the powder. By the way after you have fired you have fired each round its an excellent idea to drop the empty casing immediately into a jug of water with dish soap added because black powder is very corrosive and will ruin your casings otherwise. On straight wall cartridges a crimp would be optimal but not absolutely necessary in single shot rifles. There should be some good videos on how too's! Also some old books are available.
Pure craftsmanship lovely restoration
Nicely done greetings from sweden
I have a carl gustaf rolling block made in 1876, in 12,17x44R. Nice old rifle in original condition. And it works😂👍
Nice job restoring a fun shooter. Very cool.
Husqvarna kept on making guns up until 1989.
Just remember that the calibre of the barrel isn't actually .50 when sourcing bullets, but .479
.41 old Swedish factory decimal inches.
They repurposed the barrels from the 1860 muzzle, and 1864 chamber loading rifles in inventory.
The bore (groove to groove) on mine measures around .512". They did re-use barrels from older rifles, but this isn't one of them. Those are usually identifiable from the rear band being just a few inches ahead of the receiver.
@@rakumprojects Excellent! That definitely makes life easier for you
I wonder what batch that was made in.
I have rebarrelled one of my m/1861 rifles with an 1867 barrel and although it's clearly not a reused ML barrel, it is certainly in .479 bore.
I have one, found it in the ground when digging for a new waterpipe some 20 years ago, rusted too far to get going but its a nice wall hanger, managed to make it look clean and some parts working.
Another good job with a terrific fun gun to shoot in the end
Great project... bookmarking for when I take apart my New York State rolling block 🙂
Nice Job! Looks Great!
Very nice and detailed video, thank you sir. Best regards from Sweden!
A very sweet Swedish rolling block! as near to perfect as possible after 150+ years. The only addition I would make to your restoration would be a stock treatment of linseed oil. Beautiful gun and respectable shooting!!
He should get the bayonet for it aswell, for completion
I have a 12,17x44r CF, Carbine, and an 1867/95 8×58r Rifle. The Rifle is Ex.Con. Blue, and the Carbine is used " in the White"
I dismantled using Chapman and Webster Gun Screw Drivers, with exact slot fit an width.
No rust on Rifle ( looks Factory, unused), but the Carbine is well used ( no rust)
Have made 8x58RD ammo for the Rifle ( from Starline .45/90 cases to get the full lenght).
Lebel Military cases work for 12.17x44R Blanks BP.
Hexx to clean afterward.
Very strong positive actions.
Comparison to M1902 7mm Rifle, and 1867/74 11mmx50R Egyptian...also a 1882 in 11mm Reformado ( Spanish) by Oviedo.
Plus Five Receivers ( complete) M1914 8mm Lebel by Rem. Bought in Italy ( no barrels or woodwork...project for Film Guns, with Carbine, Musketoon and Long versions on either 50/70 Blank, or .45 calibre for "5-in-1" BP Blank...depends on Seamless Steel Tube or real Smoothbore Barrels ( not rifled)
DocAV Australia
Fantastic job!
Nice video. I enjoyed it.
good job on the M1867! my stepfather have two rolling blocks and one of them was a M1867 but was converted to 12ga for hunting and the other was built by a smith a long time ago, sadly both have been deactivated(welded barrels) as hunting with these kind of rifles in Sweden are forbidden nowadays(hunting guns must have a ammo capacity more than one round). they could have been re-permitted for competition shooting at the range but my stepfather opted to have them plugged and under a memorial permit(required by law) as his father had them before him and grandfather had them before his father, stepfather just wanted to keep them as wallhangers.
I bought this gun for black powder cartridges some years ago. It looks like newer use before coming out of a arsenal. It was a nice gun shooting very well.
i really enjoyed this
very nice indeed, well done 😉
great recording of the restore process. i have a 2nd allen conversion trapdoor (1866). you need to use real BP. Pyrodex is not the same. 1.5F Olde Eynesfoes is great stuff, a card wad and lube pill under the boolit work wonders in keeping fouling soft for better shot/shot accuracy. nice rifle!!
well, you were lucky that the wood wasn,t moldy at some point, at the video and with all the rust it looked as if it was stored in an open room...whatever...you wire weeled it down anyways and it turned out to be a wuite nice piece with not too much work to do...and how white or finshed the surface eill nit make any difference in shooting, hiw you like the " restired" version and look is up to you👍nicely done ...basics well shown and good idea...if you ever wanna shiw case her you can just wash off the oil and polish and blue or brown her hiwerver you want...or stay as is as a historic piece...thanks, far better video than dudes who use all kind of needless shit on dead stuff...thanks! the rust conversion of the barrel was a bit tricky😁👍but you are a pro!
Very cool
Muy buen trabajo !!!! Hace poco me regalaron uno , al que le estoy haciendo las partes de madera , por q no las tiene, esta en muy mal estado, pero para adorno va a servir , es un 43 spanish ! Abrazos desde argentina !!!!!
I picked up a sporterized one, years ago. Neat history. Mine had the chamber reamed for the 50-70 gov. The thing to be aware of is that the bores can be very tight. Mine measures .482 bore and .506 groove.
If I remember correctly mine measured around .512-513" in the grooves. Any smaller and I'd have to size the bullets down
I have a French rolling block in 8mm LaBelle that just needed a good cleaning I also have a Mexican rolling block that looks like Pancho villa's army marched over covered with scratch and dings and no fireing pin and broken extractor the 3rd one I have is a Russian in7.62x54r it is almost in new condition it was just completely covered in cosmlene and cleaned up nicely
I'd be very interested in seeing pictures of the 7.62x54r rolling block. I've heard of them before but they're VERY hard to find even pictures of. My email is in my bio
@@rakumprojects I got it thru sarco about 10 yearsago I don't know if they have any more but you can try I love to send you a pic as soon as I get home from Japan in July I hope the gun grabbers don't get it
Very nice work 👏 you should really take care of your hands. Gloves when you're dipping them into kerosene 😊
You did not show any cleaning of the bore. I'm sure you did, though, its the most important part of the rifle. BTW, the tight fit of the action parts illustrates how precise hand fitting, even on a mass-produced service rifle, was de rigueur in 1874 Sweden.
Nice looking rifle and good job cleaning it! The slight resistance when closing the breech looks similar to mine (Kongsberg Våpenfabrikk) if I use untrimmed .50-70 brass in it, so you might want to measure the chamber length and see if your cases need a bit of trimming. I generally go with 50 grs of Wano PPP (FFFg) behind a Lyman 515141 and cardboard "wad". Not much to gain by increasing the charge beyond that in my rifle, but your mileage may vary. Also, I do not really find it necessary to size the brass unless the cartridges get hard to load in the rifle. Not sizing the cases gives a little more room for the bullets when seated so that they won't deform.
I did have to trim the cases in the video to 42mm. At 44 the sticking was much more pronounced. That's a good tip about not sizing, I'll have to see if I can skip that step to make the brass last longer
hi there. nice job indeed and i love your presentation style. hey what was your carding wheel, grit size material ect. i'm having trouble finding such a thing here in N.Z but must be availiable. thanks.
It's made by Grobet in the USA, part #16.463. I'm not sure if there's a NZ distributor, but if not, look for a wheel with wires measuring .003"
Applying Mark Novak's teashings I see :) Good to see ppl treating the gats good
Very nice and useful video.The carding wheel is the one that Brownell has or something different? Thank you
Yes, the 4 row wheel.
❤
Just a thought but you might could use 4f powder. I've never tried it but it is more powerful than the regular stuff.
You should look to see if you can find the original side bayonet for it instead of the one that attaches to the front site,but other than that that's a nice old rifle
You could have started your thread straight by clamping the rod in your lathe chuck then keep the die holder against the flat face of your tailstock screw.
Good idea. I think I was avoiding using the lathe due to the amount of stick out it would have had. But I could have done it unpowered
@@rakumprojectsYes, you'd only need a couple of turns by hand to get it started square to the rod. The rifle turned out a fine piece.
It looks like your bore has an octagonal shape internally? What are your bore dimensions/diameter ?
It looks octagonal due to the deep rifling but it is round. The grooves measure around .512"
And here I was thinking that Husky only made things with engines
What cal. Conversion would you choose? I guess 30.06 is too much,black powder 45/70?
Some people convert these to 50-70 because the cartridges are very similar
Question from a rank amateur....
Why didn't you blue the parts after cleaning and polishing with the sanding wheel?
In my restorations I try to be as minimally invasive as possible. I want the well used look without the rust that will cause further decay. I'm not after a fresh out of the factory look.
@@rakumprojects Fair enough. Thanks for responding.
Hello, I would like to know if I can convert a Remington Rolling Block caliber 43 Spanish to the 454 casul?
No! You can't. .43 spanish is a black powder round, .454 casull runs about 60,000 psi. If you want to do such a conversion, you HAVE to use an ORIGINAL smokeless powder action. Even then, you're pushing the limits of century ago metallurgy. 7mm Mauser and .303 brit max out at about 45k. Lebel and 7.62 russian about 40k at that time. That's commercial max loads. Every shot of a casull would be like a proof load in those actions. At best, you'd be battering the action to death slowly.
You didnt get it coated?
Hoe are the axis puns held in place? Can't they just be pushed past the retaining screws? Or am i missing something? Amazing work
There's a small head on the axis pins so they can't be pushed through the action.
I have a Swedish roller 8n 32x40.
OK, so what is thread on the cleaning rod?
I used a 10-32 die. Whether that's correct, or close enough I'm not sure
that thing looks as if it was in a wet basement for years🤬who sells such a gump! but a good piece for restauration, how bad was the bore? let.s see....
hey rakum, do you prefer WD40 over balistol?
WD40 is much easier to get for me, no stores around me carry Ballistol. Plus I don't like the smell to be honest.
@@rakumprojects are you in the eastern US? the further west i go people seem to like the smell of balistol more, in my own experience.
@@southern_pride0 You're right on the money
@@rakumprojects must be one of those things.
i appreciate the input, you stay safe and god bless.
There was no mentioning of the most important aspect of this rifle, which is the bore condition of a black powder rifle…
It's in great condition. The bore is shown right around 04:30
In 1965 a general store I went to had a barrel full of Spanish rolling block rifles for $10.00 ! 43 Spanish caliber was not for me.
BACO has real black powder, 1.5 Swiss, no fake stuff
Is there anyone on utube that owns a decent set of gunsmiths screwdrivers?
These are parallel tip screwdrivers made in Switzerland by PB Swiss. I strongly prefer dedicated screwdrivers over the generic gunsmith bit sets. And these don't damage screw slots.
Yeah I noticed when I saw they were numbered my thought was they had to be expensive.
If you are going to do much of that kind of work get yourself a good set of Brownells hollow ground screwdrivers...
These are parallel tip screwdrivers, made by PB Swiss
Such a beautiful Rifle, with a HUGE round! Sure it's black powder, but man, that be a huge bullet, I can see why when guys got hit by those bullets back then those bullets tended to remove limbs when they encountered them. I love the old breach block rifles , like the Rotating block and the falling block Rifles, the late 1800s falling blocks were my favorite. Classical firearms at their best, for the 19th century anyways. very nice rifle, I'm really jealous.
Great renovation! Black powder smells better than Pyrodex
Go AI reader.
Nasal resonance not good.
I had one of these chambered in 8x58mmRD. Can't say I was the biggest fan of it.
Why's that? I like the rolling block as an action and the 8x58rd as a cartridge, I think they'd be a good combination.