When I have to make a bend that will hit or catch on the bender somewhere, I just cut through my bend line with a cutoff wheel or blade leaving several small tabs joining the metal, bend with my hands, then weld the seem if necessary. Love your channel by the way. Very happy I found it
I’ve got to try and remember that. I use that method on heavy plate all the time, but for some reason it never crosses my mind when working with sheet. Maybe it’s because I can’t see past my frustration that my dang bender doesn’t work. 😐
"Let me convert these inches to feet for the ease of mathing" And let's divide that number by some "random" to get the volume in gallons. As a European I'm laughing so hard. 😂😂😂
I envy you. I’m never laughing when it’s time to calculate measurements! I’m strongly considering switching to the metric system. A video I’m releasing today has me complaining about the Imperial measurement system yet again. Cheers, Kristoffer!
Great video and content. I am not a creative person by any means and it really helps to see your creations from thought to finished product. You are a great teacher and I learn a lot from watching you work. Keep it up! I am a new subscriber.
If you were going to lengthen the sending arm why not just keep the pump sender at the full 12” too? It’s trivial to extend the pump connections to the bottom of the tank if you’re worried about pump sitting low enough If you don’t care about the pump sitting low in the tank you can just run a hose to the bottom still and run something like the Holley hydro mat at the bottom to aid pickup
Honestly I didn’t know such a thing existed. That definitely would’ve been nice. I’ll look it up because it might still be an option. My tank liner was a disaster and if I can’t get it out, I’m gonna have to start over. 😬
I'm excited for the follow up video to the fuel tank! Looks super good! Very impressive. I'm planning on building long range tank for my truck. I'm glad I found your video.
Thank you Carter! There will be a follow up after I figure out what I’m going to with it. I’m not thrilled with the appearance of the POR15. I’m considering attempting to strip it out and re-line it with Tank Kreem.
Not yet. I’m going to need it soon though! I’m thinking I’m going to start with aircraft stripper and if that fails maybe roast it on my fire pit. 🤷♂️ We will see.
@Fleur Dodd Thank you my friend! No update yet. I’m dragging my feet on dealing with the liner. I hate it and I don’t trust it enough to attach it to a good running motor. I’m going to have to strip it out or build another tank. I’m not excited about either of those options.
Look up the magnetic brake, fellow Miller! The principles of a magnetic brake are the same as mine, with fingers that clamp down on the metal on the top. But with a magnetic brake, the fingers are held down by magnetic force, rather than bolts. This allows you to make a complete box. And when you’re done, you just need to flex the box open a little bit to retrieve the fingers that are now trapped inside. 🤯
I can’t imagine that. I’m a bit of a sissy when it comes to cold. Thankfully our winters are incredibly mild. Mother Nature makes up for it with 117° summers though. Come to think of it, I’m a bit of a sissy when it comes to heat too! I guess I’m just a sissy.
When drilling polyurethane bushings for spacers, I've taken a Drill bit the size of a spacer and ran it in reverse it seems to kind of burn its way through the polyurethane bushing but not ruin it
Interesting! I think I’ve done something similar once. I used a metal pipe the size of the hole I needed with some makeshift flutes cut into the side of it. It too kinda melted its way through but I was happy with the result!
Great vid and fab skills! I used that tank sealer on my '64 bug. I followed directions carefully. Several months later that stuff was peeling off in sheets. Had to buy a new tank. I'll never use tank sealer again!
Wow! I REALLY appreciate that. I was discussing with someone else that I was considering experimenting with aircraft stripper and trying to get it out. I think that convinced me. Thank you for the kind words.
I’ve had bad experiences with external pumps. The ones I’ve owned were really loud and or they overheated in the Vegas heat. I can’t afford the ones that probably don’t. No better way to keep a pump cool and quiet than submerging it!
The bump in the bottom of a wine bottle or punt is a traditional left over from when all wine bottles were hand blown it made them sit more stably, helps sediments settle, and can be used to make shaped charges.
I actually appreciate that! The info, not the bump! Some punts are so large they take up an entire wine glass worth of space. That’s messed up. In my own research, this is the first mention of shaped charges. 🤔 Thank you, David! 🥂
@@GarageFab Here is a video that touches on it for your you. ua-cam.com/video/OCYAr5jEXHo/v-deo.html But I learned about it from Army and Marine manuals.
Thank you for that. I'm having all kinds of trouble finding the original parts. I rushed the end of this video because it took so long to create. I left a lot of info out unfortunately but I'll show all in a future video. It got a filler neck with a check valve in it and the pump got it's own shallow trough that I basically copied from the factory eclipse tank.
@@GarageFab Not a problem, I forget what the other flange was used for. Your work is coming out very nice, keep up the good work, I am loving the videos!
I found ONE image one the interwebs where it shows the check valve connected to the other small port with a plastic hose... And my Haynes manual shows nothing. The most worthless of books. Thank you for the kind words. 🙏
@@GarageFab Here you go good sir, looks like one is to vent when filling it up and the other is for the purge to the charcoal canister. www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fuel-tanks-charcoal-canister-lines.502324/
Not yet, Rudy, sorry. There will be in the near future. Here’s a sneak peak: I was REALLY unhappy with how the liner turned out, so I’ll be attempting to strip it out. How, I’m not sure. If successful I’ll be re-lining it with a two part epoxy and then coming up with some fancy way of mounting it.
19:46 here is a tip that works for me. Iinstead of investing in more equipment that I will rarely use... I do what I can in house and sublet the stuff I cannot do. I bet a real fab shop could fold that up for you.
I'll agree with that 100%. Especially with paid jobs. Sometimes paying a little out of pocket to have something done is cheaper than spending hours struggling with something. Not in my own projects though. This one is already going to be expensive so I've got to pinch pennies where I can. Oh and... Ouch.
Why didn't you just extend the pump hanger so it reached 12", and simply change the pump if necessary? Bare pumps are pretty universal, as long as you get one rated for the flow you need.
Good information. Thank you for sharing this. To figure gallons, I find it easier to leave dimensions in inches, since I know 1 gallon = 231 cubic inches. 27x16x6 = 2592 cubic inches. 2592ci / 231ci per gallon = ~11.2 gallons.
231! That’s what I use too. I used to roll in a Chevy luv that we put a 231ci Buick 3.8L v6 in. That’s how I always remember 231ci. Association. I also remember 454 grams to 1 pound.. big block Chevy 454. Dumb, but it stuck. I’m a machinist, so convert inches to mm and back all day. Id remembered that the conversion from kg to lbs was 2.2, but did the math backwards, accidentally ordered 25 lbs of Parmesan cheese when in Italy. That was a good mistake, my family enjoyed.
Excellent video, I am going to approve what I learned by manufacturing the tank for my Datsun 510 Do you know the technical name of the tank sealer components? In my location I cannot find a similar product, but they recommended phenolic epoxy. Thx for video
Thank you my friend! All I can tell you for sure is I’m incredibly unhappy with the product I use and I have to try to get it out. Ugh. I’ve been told the only way to go is a two part epoxy. If you’re not mixing something, don’t use it! I don’t know what it’s called but I think you’re in the right track. Lemme know what you find out and how you like it because I’m going to have to coat mine again eventually. 😩
Not yet. I'll be doing some suspension work before I mount the tank to make sure I've got enough room for a watts link. I can tell you that I wasn't thrilled with the POR 15 and if Aircraft Stripper will strip it out I just might do that. I'd recommend Tank Kreem instead. I'll definitely do an update video explaining my problems soon.
It looks like you're in California (like me). I looked through your newer videos and it doesnt look like your mighty max is on the road yet but I was wondering if you have had/have forseen any issues with passing the smog check with your custom fuel tank. I'm thinking of doing the same thing that you did here for my overland Astro van build (biggest stock tank is 27 gallons) but I'm afraid of the smog guy telling me to kick rocks because my tank isn't techincally legal.
The tank lining is indeed for steel only. The liner is there to prevent the tank from rusting from the inside out. I am REALLY unhappy with how the tank coating turned out so I’m considering starting over with aluminum. Aluminum doesn’t rust so you can just leave the aluminum bare. 🙌
Great video as always! I think the best option for bending the angled bends like that isn't cheap... most likely a large cnc press brake with individual lower finger dies, like the top punch fingers just on the bottom. Which will allow the angles to bend with out hitting, cant tell you how many times I designed something with angled bends and realized I had no good way to do so lmao.
That’s brilliant! I’ve been mesmerized by videos of those in action and forgot they existed. That should be easy enough to make a simple version in a hydraulic press. Thank you, Brother! Knew I could count on you. 👊
We did not! Don’t feel left out, I didn’t get the reveal either! 😆 I am still not finished! I was incredibly dissatisfied with the tankliner, and I’m still trying to decide what to do with it. For example, fill the tank with aircraft paint stripper and hope I can flush it all out? Bring the tank to a place that has a large kiln and bake it out? There will be a follow up video in the near future, because I’m going to need them out the tank soon. Hopefully it won’t be a “starting over” video. 😬
I spent years on CNC benders. For trapezoids and any other high wall shapes, you have to use raised tooling and use beds sides. It is not possible on all benders. Hydraulic benders have sides open, therefore in correct sequence you're able to bend shapes very deep/high. Not 100% of them, but good 99% out of them.
This may be my next purchase. (Or build) It’s incredible how often I find myself stuck and unable to create what seems to me to be a simple part because my tooling won’t allow it. It’s like the finger brake punishes me for thinking outside the box. Pun intended. Thank you, Daniel! 🙏
@@GarageFab CNC hydraulic benders are incredible in terms of efficiency, speed and accuracy. You can bend repeatable angles on material up to 12 mm (100 tonnes press), with accuracy of 0.05 mm. I like bending as bend offer much higher strength than weld. No HAZ.
Is work-hardening not an issue? That’s going beyond my range of knowledge to be honest. Also, I don’t yet hand $50,000 burning a hole in my pocket for a hydraulic press. 😂
@@GarageFab Hardening with bending? No. Thick mayerial gets gently warm up to 50C when bended fast. Here is tip you may not know about. Sheet metal always has grain one direction. Always bend thick steel or SS with grain, not across grain. With grain 9 of 10 won't crack at bend. Perpendicular to grain 3-4 if 10 will crack at bend, deeply at times. Material half inch thick and higher. To fight with this, you want to use wider V, bottom tool. Rule of thumb is 5 to 6 times wider V than material thickness. For thick stuff I go with times 8 wider. For half inch it would be 4 inch wide bottom tool, giving 4 inch radius to material with 90 deg. bend. It is hard one, as with plasma/water/laser cutting, you will not get good efficiency with some flat stuff. Sheet metal always comes in sheets 1.2 x 2.4 m. With some cutting product to bending surface efficiency drop below 50% which is pretty low. Rest material is wasted.
you should take a look at a early 90's nissan 240sx fuel pump assembly :D also radium makes an amazing dual pump version if needed its similar and is made for a taller tank and has the fuel level sender on the fuel pump assembly thanks for the knowledge
to do the trapezoid shape, you really need a real press brake where the ram goes straight up and down. you could probably do it in one of those at home kits that fit in a press if you can make the punch in removable teeth like the box and pan (finger) brake.
Agreed! That’s definitely something I hope to purchase or build in the near future, Marshall. I suspect the V block would also need to be customizable. I haven’t seen that though. 🤔
@@GarageFab In the shops I have worked in that have Press Brakes, we were always making custom dies to press different shapes. We never threw them out and there was a place in the tool room with numbered dies and drawings of their shapes in a notebook. When you needed a special shape you consulted the book and selected an existing die if you have one. We had a selection of 90 degree V dies that lived in the brake. Your trapezoid could be easily made is a press brake. If you have room for a hydraulic bench press you can make a small press brake out of it but, the size of your project will be limited to the press you have. Hope this helps.
Well don't worry it's perfect enough and even I screw up sometimes. Well not really I never screw up actually but, "skill is measured in our ability to fix our own screw-ups. "
And I feel accomplished making a little 4" wide 90 deg brake for my shop press to make brackets easier...bent 3/16" like butter...Guess I gotta up my game a bit
And you should feel accomplished! I still don't have a shop press or a press brake and I'm often in need of one. I still hammer over flat stock in a vice to make brackets. Kinda embarrassing, but I just don't have the room yet. In time, a homemade press, followed by a homemade press brake will be videos on this channel. Might be a little while though. I've got to clear some space first. Cheers my friend!
@@GarageFab I was workin on a tiny project. Had some 3/16" thick brackets ya know to make it solid lol. Then it took way too long to hammer heat and bend those brackets and they have hammer divits all over it...finally said fahget it. I'm makin a little bracket press so I can make these little brackets and others. Took way to long...but now I can bend a 90deg on 3/16" in about 30 sec and it looks good. If you get the shop press don't go smaller than the 20T and get the HF air bottle jack...it's soooo much better/easier than the regular pump handle
if you cant get the angles with a finger brake, only thing i can think of are those forming dies but thats expensive and only makes the one part (commerical sheet metal roofing fabricator and installer by trade)
@@GarageFab look into hydraulic press brakes, some have very specific dies but make crazy complex shapes in one "press" (like the main block will come down, the the sides pinched, then another spot bent). for the shape you want i could only think of that or stamping
I might be going that route, Bill! My attempt at lining the tank failed miserably. (Update coming soon) So I’m thinking of purchasing an aluminum fuel cell. 🤔
Thank you, Brother! I appreciate you. Hopefully you’ll stick around. I’ve got a pair of LS engines for the next UA-cam project and zero LS knowledge. 😬 Imma need all the help I can get!
That’s good to hear because I’m terrified of it. I’m a Toyota certified technician specializing in Toyota and Lexus. Those are easy! First question; I bought a car with a misfire in cylinder 6 and a code for cylinder 6 injector circuit. I replaced that injector. Test drove it. All good. Almost immediately cylinder 1 injector circuit code popped up. I replaced that one. Almost immediately injector circuit code for cylinder 7. 🤦🏻♂️ Any ideas what’s happening?
@@GarageFab I’m a Toyota guy too, I’ve had many, currrently have an FJ cruiser. I used to have a Supra but gave up on it, after blowing up three 7MGTE’s, and one 1JZ, I figured I’m not a good enough mechanic to screw with modifying supras. I was a jet mechanic in the military 20 years ago, but that’s the only professional experience I have. Currently I’m a so/so hobby mechanic, wanna be novice fabricator. Your issue to me sounds like debris in your fuel system. Have the fuel lines been changed? Have you changed your fuel filter? Injector failure isn’t a common problem. Personally I’d start with flushing the fuel lines then change the fuel filter (stock filter should be located on the passenger side frame rail under the cab). Did the car sit for an extended period with garbage fuel?
I think it did sit for at least a few months. I purchased from it from someone that couldn’t afford to fix it. Debris has also crossed my mind. That would explain the misfire but I wouldn’t expect a “circuit code”. I hope to help you become a slightly more than novice fabricator! 😂
Yes and no. I pressurised it momentarily to force all the walls uniformly outward because the welding warped the walls slightly, but it did not stay pressurised long enough to check for leaks. I did fill with water though and checked that way. I guess my thinking was that the tank liner would seal any tiny holes if there were any.
I was thinking that calculating volume in imperial would ususally go faster. What would happen if we had fractions on all 3 sides? Full lenght video just for that? I am kidding. Great video as usual.
Ability mostly! I’d very much prefer aluminum but I don’t have the skills or the machinery needed to AC Tig at the moment. Severely regretting it now because the tank liner is not meeting my expectations.
@@GarageFab Thanks. That's good to know. I'm looking to have a custom size and shape tank built for my old truck. I'll have them use aluminum. Keep posting videos!
Yep. Try that process by starting with an old tank and tell me how ya feel!😵💫 it’s more than all day, that I can promise. Gotta have at least two sub-projects just to stay awake…a great mind once said-“always move forward “
I’m in Vegas where it’s incredibly dry, yet somehow moisture finds its way into the fuel tank. I’ve built a few tanks in the past without lining them and they didn’t last long. 😬
@@GarageFab Thanks for the quick answer! Just discovered your channel and subscribed. I think you convinced me to build a tank for my Triumph TR7 instead of laying out the $700 landed for a new one. I will line it then.. TR7 has the filler cap on the top of the deck.. a bit water prone. If you have water trouble in Vegas..!!!?! I'm in Dallas..monsoon season here now :-)
Thank you Mike! Thrilled to have you. I don’t know if moisture is absorbed from the air, or if there’s some water in the fuel… it’s a mystery. Yes, line your tank or electro plate it, but don’t use the POR15 I used. I wasn’t happy with it at all! I was advised by some knowledgeable people that a two part epoxy liner is the only way to go. I don’t have any experience with it though. Lemme know what you do!
Awesome job man. No drain though. I'm thinking of building a cell for my 1G. The fuel level indicator may be bad on my car due to a F up by me and the seal leaks due to the same guy who messed up the fuel level indicator trying to use old parts. If I build one, I'll probably do aluminum and buy a boat fuel level indicator and make my own pump mount. But I probably won't do any of that. I'll probably just fix my leak and get a new/used sending unit. But cool video. I'm off to check out more of your videos.
Thank you, Jospeh! I laughed the whole way through that comment. I intend to drain my tank using the engine. 😉 I’m a Toyota technician by trade and they don’t come with drains. A lot of my ideas come from the vehicles I work on every day. I’d love to gain the skill to build an aluminum tank. The day will come eventually. Your time is greatly appreciated my man! Cheers!
@@GarageFab was your old boss named Frank? Only asking because mine was borrowed from a frank to build a dash in a s-10. Then somehow his shop was “broken” into and my brake ended up missing. Even had the casters I welded on there.
That was getting interesting for a moment! I had a feeling it was something like that. But no luck. My boss was Wally. I don’t know where he got it, but the wheels were mine. I call them “socks” They’re casters that are welded to short lengths of square tubing that slipped over the legs. That way I can use the same casters on multiple tools/tables in the shop.
I seen it at the end I realised how it worked then but that video is gold how did the liner hold up after it took so long to apply like 3 days with it in tank rotate every 2 hours then drain it and then wait 90 aomthing hours for it to cure completely how's it held up ?
Well, Jamie, there will be an update in about a month or so, but spoiler alert, I hate the liner. Now I have to try and figure out how to get it out. If I can’t, I’ll have to start over on the tank. Or better yet, but one. 🤔
hint..if you drill some holes on the insides of the corners, when you go to use your 4.5 inch disk cutter... you wont over cut the part that you are making,, the disk cutter will ( you will ) stop at the holes that you cut.. and to make sure it wont leak after you grind down the weld.. solder the weld lines with solder.. easy to use and will stop those pesky pinhole leaks
Haha! Yes it does! I tried to make the switch. Then realized that no one else switched with me and keeping track of two measurement systems wasn’t feasible. 😩 One day we’ll switch. I’ll be dead by then I’m sure, but it’ll happen.
You do great work. Any chance you could make a tank for my 1989 Ford Ranger? I am having a hard time repairing the plastic tank and they don't sell new ones. I am in Las Vegas.
Hey Robert! Thank you my friend. 🙏 I’m sorry, unfortunately at the moment I cannot. I’ve got a million excuses. Wanna hear em? The sheet metal brake I’ve been using was a loan, and the owner just recently took it back. Now I’m looking for a magnetic brake but I’m not sure when I’ll get one. And since starting UA-cam, I haven’t had the time to accept side work. Ok maybe just two excuses, but still…
I'm assuming you mean sheet metal. 16 gauge/16th ish inch. No idea how thick the liner is though I'm going for as thick as possible. The directions say coat and drain but I didn't drain.
I’d imagine with stainless or aluminum there would be no need to line the tank unless your welds are leaking. My line was used to try to prevent rust since I don’t have the ability to weld anything but steel at the moment. 😔
@@GarageFab Thanks! I just bought a Lincoln LE31MP. I hope that thing can weld stainless steel. I am sure I need to make a tank for a pickup I want to rebuild. If is not possible I'll do it your way
Hi I’m looking to raise a diesel fuel tank about a foot higher than it is with a custom tank with the original pipes/ adjusted, sender etc would their be any issues with fuel flow do you think?
I can't be sure without seeing it for myself but if I understand you correctly you want to make a deeper tank and extend the pump assembly extended to reach the bottom. If I'm correct you shouldn't have any problems. I'd advise that you ensure the fuel pump rests near the bottom of the tank. Fuel pumps generally only have pushing capability (no vacuum or sucking) so the pump must be primed (or soaked) in order for it to operate properly. As long as the fuel level doesn't drop below the pump I'd think it should be fine. I'd be happy to check out some photos if you've got them. You can shoot them to either of my Instagram accounts. @mankandy_kreations or @garagefab Good luck!
Volume in cubics inches without converting to cu ft. Example: 10”x12”x16”= 1920 cu inches 1920/1728 * 7.48 = 19.7 gal 1728 equal number of cu in in a cu ft 7.48 equals number of gallons in a cu ft
I might be stripping it too. I've never been more unhappy with anything in my life! I think I'm going to fill the dang thing with Aircraft Stripper and hope I don't hate life afterwards.
Did you use the same brand? The first coat didn’t appear to cover well so I coated it again. And then again. It took several coats to completely cover the steel. Then when it dried, a large bubble formed between the steel and the coating like on a pizza crust. I had people tell me the single part coatings deteriorated on them and gummed up their fuel system and they’ll only use two-part epoxy coatings now. And so now I’m scared. 😳
@@GarageFab yes same exact brand and kit you used. Makes me wonder if it needs the rust and pitting to bond too? It's only been 8 months since I did it and it was for a dealership so not sure on long term results. I did each step as you did except I did use the cleaner solution and had a rusty old tank. I hope it doesn't start to peel and gum up the fuel system.. now I'm worried..lol
That's really interesting. I barely know what electroplating is. I had to look it up. Apparently chrome is technically electroplating. In my brief research car manufacturers already use electroLESS plating inside tanks which is a similar process but with chemicals. Also by it's description it's not an attractive coating. Similar to galvanized but if it works it works. I kinda wish I didn't put this crap in my tank now. 😕
@@GarageFab do a bit more research on diy electroplating, I'm currently trying to restore an old gas tank, I also came across black oxide seem very easy alternative
I'm just curious why you use highland steel I've been buying stuff in the Sun for 18 years I used to use those guys all the time but they have really bad especially the lady at the I'm curious why you don't just use Kurtis steel they give you a better deal anyways
Haha! That’s funny you mention the lady up front. When I first started going, she was unfriendly and unhelpful. Maybe she knows my face now and knows I’m always smiling because now she’s a joy to work with. I use Highland for ALL the reasons! They’ve consistently been cheaper, Curtis never answers the phone or returns calls, (Highland always does.) and most importantly, they’re open on Saturdays. I have a day job with the same hours as Curtis so I can only go on lunch and sometimes an hour isn’t enough. Love the dude at the counter at Curtis, but the convenience just isn’t there. 👊
I know I’m late but why not use a piece of stainless tig rod for your fuel level rod. Sorry just found your videos and I watched them all tonight lol. Great job!
Thank you, Luke! I just may do that. I dropped something on the float arm and broke it so I’ve got to do it again. I didn’t do that the first time because I don’t have any stainless TIG rod but perhaps I can find someone around here to loan me a stick.
Hey Candyman.. You know the way "bung" has you gritting your teeth when you try to use it?.. Ask one of your UK viewers about "flanges" Might just have you shying away from gas tanks altogether! 🤣 Love the site Mister.. a true diamond in an ocean mostly full of "bungs"! 😂
Haha! I had to do some research. Now that whole part of the video will never be the same for me. For the record, I prefer flanges over bungs. Thank you my friend! 🙏
I likely will. One day. I was extremely unhappy with the tank liner. I’ll likely be attempting to strip it and then try again with another type/brand. I won’t need the tank for another few months though so it’s unknown when that will be. 🤷♂️
@@GarageFab Any parts store or online, the hard part will be finding the right one. Most production cars/trucks use an integrated pump/sender assembly. Now that you have the flange for that pump you'll have to change it or try to find something with the same flange which will be harder, plus you'll have to match the resistance of the sender or modify it. At this point you're probably better off fixing what you have.
I have 3 points to make... #1-You clearly must have dropped that cake on a floor too dirty for the 5 second rule bc no decent man would waste a good cake!!!, #2-Awesome visualization using the cake and #3-Awesome vid!!! Got urself another sub!!!!
No cake was wasted in the making of this video. I am not a barbarian. Also I don’t believe in the 5 second rule and have the immune system to show for it. My rule is inspecting for visible debris and determining if it can be removed with basic tools in a reasonable amount of time. Thank you my friend! Glad to have you. See you around!! 🙌
My wife dropped a piece of summer sausage on the floor....she brushed it off then popped it in her mouth...I expressed my disgust...and asked her how it was...she said sandy while giggling....LOL gee wonder why
Thank you, Brother! As for the fuel port, you didn't miss a thing. The end of this video got really weird. I was going to wait until the weekend to do the tank liner and make a separate video of it but then I decided to do it at work one day instead. I realized I hadn't put the fill spout in yet so welded it up real quick with our welder at work. Then that night I decided to see what it would look like if I put the video of the lining process over the video of me reading the instructions and it turned out OK so I uploaded it immediately. That explanation was even more confusing than the video itself. 🙄 I'll explain the fill spout in the reveal video because that too was taken from the Eclipse tank.
Tell me more, Tom! I haven’t heard of that. How does it work? The float arm that I extended broke on me when I accidentally sat on it. That just made me realize that might not be the best way. The tiny weld might just rust through in a couple months. 🤷♂️
im 3 years too late but you could have avoided the whole dimple trapezoid by extending the hanger and hoses on the pump hat assembly and gained that volume back.
You are correct! However the overall purpose was to not just make it work, but also to not have to re-modify the pump assembly if I needed to replace it. And because it’s been discontinued from Mitsubishi, I predicted having to replace it more than once.
@@GarageFab if you can fabricate a gas tank you can extend fuel line and bracket 6" instead of fabricating that large recess in tank🤷♂️ awesome video though. Thanks for making it
My pleasure, David. You are correct. But should the fuel pump housing crack (as the Eclipse housings often do) I’d have to re-modify the new one as you cannot separate the housing from the pump bracket. I like to build things with ease of future maintenance in mind.
What thickness steel are you using? I want to make a bigger fuel tank for my Unimog, when I Googled "what gauge steel" it came back as 12G. Yours looks a bit lighter than 12G. Edit: Ah fuck, just read your description properly...16G. I liked your video though, nicely edited, not too much chat and one of my favourites with build videos is speeding up the long processes.
You’ve got impressive eyes! I used 16 gauge which is still thicker than a lot of modern metal tanks. Certainly not indestructible but still pretty beefy.
Oh, if only you had metric! That first volume calc would be 6.86x4.1x1.5 decimeters = 42.2 cubicdecimeters, which - because metric - 42.2 liters! Damn simple right? No need for using lengths of grains of barley to define volume derived from the Romans, who used letters for numbers… but oh well… Still love your videos!👍🏻😉
Hahaha!!! Grains of barley. 😂 Tell me about it Christian. I hate hate hate our measurement system. Passionately. I tried to switch to metric in my own personal shop (even re-purchased every measuring device I own in metric) but then quickly realized that unless all my parts and materials suppliers also switched, it would actually be more work constantly converting back and forth.
@@GarageFab Stick with it! You work on jap cars, they are metric, and more and more american cars are too. Since I’m in Denmark, I have no personal experience, but I’ve heard that when you take some measurements on US cars, like between balljoints, that are i.e. 7” 111/127, and think “why didn’t they go easy 8”???” It’s because it’s actually 200mm… It’s sooo much easier! Take thread, M8 is…. Wait for it… wait….. YES! 8mm’s (the head would be 13mm if it’s a european car and 12mm if it’s japanese) Btw almost all the YT’s I watch are in imperial, so I have to constantly convert to grains of barley😉
The fact you video and don’t edit out the mistakes makes you very personable and fun to watch. Keep it up!
Thank you my man! I’ve stolen this from UA-camrs I respect. I think it’s important to show things don’t always go smoothly.
Thank you my friend! 🙏
When I have to make a bend that will hit or catch on the bender somewhere, I just cut through my bend line with a cutoff wheel or blade leaving several small tabs joining the metal, bend with my hands, then weld the seem if necessary. Love your channel by the way. Very happy I found it
I’ve got to try and remember that. I use that method on heavy plate all the time, but for some reason it never crosses my mind when working with sheet.
Maybe it’s because I can’t see past my frustration that my dang bender doesn’t work. 😐
WOW! I need to build a tank for ranger with a plastic tank. The thought of using a sender from something else just brought that closer to reality!!!
Yes!! I can’t wait to hear how it works!
they sell universal senders.
The chocolate treat visual was much appreciated, please more.
More treat destruction? You got it!
"Let me convert these inches to feet for the ease of mathing"
And let's divide that number by some "random" to get the volume in gallons.
As a European I'm laughing so hard. 😂😂😂
I envy you. I’m never laughing when it’s time to calculate measurements! I’m strongly considering switching to the metric system. A video I’m releasing today has me complaining about the Imperial measurement system yet again. Cheers, Kristoffer!
@@GarageFab Do it! Go metric, you'll never regret it. 😀😀
Consider it done. Done ✔️
I’m surprised the video doesn’t have more views this was a great video and great editing
Thank you! It’s been growing slowly. I think it’ll pick up speed. Maybe. 🤔
Great video and content. I am not a creative person by any means and it really helps to see your creations from thought to finished product. You are a great teacher and I learn a lot from watching you work. Keep it up! I am a new subscriber.
Yes! Thank you, Charles. 🙏 Glad to have you and I hope to see a lot of you. Cheers!
If you were going to lengthen the sending arm why not just keep the pump sender at the full 12” too?
It’s trivial to extend the pump connections to the bottom of the tank if you’re worried about pump sitting low enough
If you don’t care about the pump sitting low in the tank you can just run a hose to the bottom still and run something like the Holley hydro mat at the bottom to aid pickup
Honestly I didn’t know such a thing existed. That definitely would’ve been nice. I’ll look it up because it might still be an option. My tank liner was a disaster and if I can’t get it out, I’m gonna have to start over. 😬
I'm excited for the follow up video to the fuel tank! Looks super good! Very impressive.
I'm planning on building long range tank for my truck. I'm glad I found your video.
Thank you Carter! There will be a follow up after I figure out what I’m going to with it. I’m not thrilled with the appearance of the POR15. I’m considering attempting to strip it out and re-line it with Tank Kreem.
@@GarageFab any update video?
Not yet. I’m going to need it soon though! I’m thinking I’m going to start with aircraft stripper and if that fails maybe roast it on my fire pit. 🤷♂️ We will see.
Any update on the completed tank ( lined)? Also, loving your channel 👍
@Fleur Dodd Thank you my friend! No update yet. I’m dragging my feet on dealing with the liner. I hate it and I don’t trust it enough to attach it to a good running motor. I’m going to have to strip it out or build another tank. I’m not excited about either of those options.
I always wondered if you could make a complete box. I could not envision it.
Look up the magnetic brake, fellow Miller! The principles of a magnetic brake are the same as mine, with fingers that clamp down on the metal on the top. But with a magnetic brake, the fingers are held down by magnetic force, rather than bolts. This allows you to make a complete box.
And when you’re done, you just need to flex the box open a little bit to retrieve the fingers that are now trapped inside.
🤯
That's cute, you get to work outside all winter... Been cold here for 7 months... Wisconsin baby!!
I can’t imagine that. I’m a bit of a sissy when it comes to cold. Thankfully our winters are incredibly mild. Mother Nature makes up for it with 117° summers though. Come to think of it, I’m a bit of a sissy when it comes to heat too!
I guess I’m just a sissy.
@@GarageFab you make up for it in grass roots fabricating! I appreciate it! Can't wait for it to warm up a bit so I can mess around in the garage...
Thank you, Erik! I can’t say I’m eager for it to warm up… but for your sake, bring on the summer!! 🙌
When drilling polyurethane bushings for spacers, I've taken a
Drill bit the size of a spacer and ran it in reverse it seems to kind of burn its way through the polyurethane bushing but not ruin it
Interesting! I think I’ve done something similar once. I used a metal pipe the size of the hole I needed with some makeshift flutes cut into the side of it. It too kinda melted its way through but I was happy with the result!
I guess u could flute the spacer still have to raise the bed to match the cab.
Great vid and fab skills! I used that tank sealer on my '64 bug. I followed directions carefully. Several months later that stuff was peeling off in sheets. Had to buy a new tank. I'll never use tank sealer again!
Wow! I REALLY appreciate that. I was discussing with someone else that I was considering experimenting with aircraft stripper and trying to get it out. I think that convinced me. Thank you for the kind words.
Love the effort you put into tank build ...maybe a external efi pump and a simple external tube sight hose as a gauge would have simplified things
I’ve had bad experiences with external pumps. The ones I’ve owned were really loud and or they overheated in the Vegas heat. I can’t afford the ones that probably don’t. No better way to keep a pump cool and quiet than submerging it!
Love the video! Im using the same fuel pump hanger from the eclipse in my project where did you find the 2 pin connector for it?
I had the whole car! 😆 I bought it just for the engine and stole everything including the entire wire harness.
@@GarageFab Thanks! I ended up finding the connector it's a sumimoto DL090
The bump in the bottom of a wine bottle or punt is a traditional left over from when all wine bottles were hand blown it made them sit more stably, helps sediments settle, and can be used to make shaped charges.
I actually appreciate that! The info, not the bump! Some punts are so large they take up an entire wine glass worth of space. That’s messed up.
In my own research, this is the first mention of shaped charges. 🤔 Thank you, David! 🥂
@@GarageFab Here is a video that touches on it for your you.
ua-cam.com/video/OCYAr5jEXHo/v-deo.html
But I learned about it from Army and Marine manuals.
That was quite the watch, thank you!
Also I think Imma sell my drill press now. 😂
@@GarageFab you are welcome.
One of the bungs is for the purge check valve. Also no baffling for the pump?
Thank you for that. I'm having all kinds of trouble finding the original parts.
I rushed the end of this video because it took so long to create. I left a lot of info out unfortunately but I'll show all in a future video. It got a filler neck with a check valve in it and the pump got it's own shallow trough that I basically copied from the factory eclipse tank.
@@GarageFab Not a problem, I forget what the other flange was used for. Your work is coming out very nice, keep up the good work, I am loving the videos!
I found ONE image one the interwebs where it shows the check valve connected to the other small port with a plastic hose... And my Haynes manual shows nothing. The most worthless of books.
Thank you for the kind words. 🙏
@@GarageFab Here you go good sir, looks like one is to vent when filling it up and the other is for the purge to the charcoal canister. www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fuel-tanks-charcoal-canister-lines.502324/
Thank you yet again! That's way more info than I was able to find on my own. Incredibly helpful.
You Sir do awesome work and are an inspiration 👍🏼
Thank you my friend. I’m happy to inspire but the goal is to motivate! Not to impress but to empower. Cheers, Paul!
Is there a part 2 to this? Can’t find it on your playlist. Thx
Not yet, Rudy, sorry. There will be in the near future. Here’s a sneak peak: I was REALLY unhappy with how the liner turned out, so I’ll be attempting to strip it out. How, I’m not sure. If successful I’ll be re-lining it with a two part epoxy and then coming up with some fancy way of mounting it.
19:46 here is a tip that works for me.
Iinstead of investing in more equipment that I will rarely use...
I do what I can in house and sublet the stuff I cannot do.
I bet a real fab shop could fold that up for you.
I'll agree with that 100%. Especially with paid jobs. Sometimes paying a little out of pocket to have something done is cheaper than spending hours struggling with something.
Not in my own projects though. This one is already going to be expensive so I've got to pinch pennies where I can.
Oh and... Ouch.
Why didn't you just extend the pump hanger so it reached 12", and simply change the pump if necessary? Bare pumps are pretty universal, as long as you get one rated for the flow you need.
True! But this wouldn’t have helped with the sender unfortunately.
Good information. Thank you for sharing this. To figure gallons, I find it easier to leave dimensions in inches, since I know 1 gallon = 231 cubic inches. 27x16x6 = 2592 cubic inches. 2592ci / 231ci per gallon = ~11.2 gallons.
Much appreciated! I’d like to remember that but my memory is broken. I’ll have to refer back here when it’s time to make another one. 😂 Cheers! 🍻
Use metric/logic
In the process of switching as we speak.
231! That’s what I use too. I used to roll in a Chevy luv that we put a 231ci Buick 3.8L v6 in. That’s how I always remember 231ci. Association. I also remember 454 grams to 1 pound.. big block Chevy 454. Dumb, but it stuck. I’m a machinist, so convert inches to mm and back all day. Id remembered that the conversion from kg to lbs was 2.2, but did the math backwards, accidentally ordered 25 lbs of Parmesan cheese when in Italy. That was a good mistake, my family enjoyed.
Excellent video, I am going to approve what I learned by manufacturing the tank for my Datsun 510
Do you know the technical name of the tank sealer components?
In my location I cannot find a similar product, but they recommended phenolic epoxy.
Thx for video
Thank you my friend! All I can tell you for sure is I’m incredibly unhappy with the product I use and I have to try to get it out. Ugh. I’ve been told the only way to go is a two part epoxy. If you’re not mixing something, don’t use it! I don’t know what it’s called but I think you’re in the right track.
Lemme know what you find out and how you like it because I’m going to have to coat mine again eventually. 😩
that Gap will getcha every time Fred
Unless you’re Lawrence Fishburne
@@GarageFab Or better yet, Lauren Hutton!
Cool project. The edible visual aide was a nice touch. I always enjoyed the science experiments in school you got to eat afterwards.
Haha! What school was that? The only thing I remember eating in class was crayons.
Like the frog and cow eyeball dissections!
Haha! Ew.
Awesome, was there any update on the tank? I want to fab an extended gas tank for a vw bus for long distance traveling
Not yet. I'll be doing some suspension work before I mount the tank to make sure I've got enough room for a watts link.
I can tell you that I wasn't thrilled with the POR 15 and if Aircraft Stripper will strip it out I just might do that. I'd recommend Tank Kreem instead. I'll definitely do an update video explaining my problems soon.
@@GarageFab awesome, was it 18 gauge sheel metal that you used? I want to build and extended tank for my 74 bug
I used 16 gauge because my tank will be really low to the ground, but I think 18 gauge would be perfectly fine.
It looks like you're in California (like me). I looked through your newer videos and it doesnt look like your mighty max is on the road yet but I was wondering if you have had/have forseen any issues with passing the smog check with your custom fuel tank. I'm thinking of doing the same thing that you did here for my overland Astro van build (biggest stock tank is 27 gallons) but I'm afraid of the smog guy telling me to kick rocks because my tank isn't techincally legal.
That last part with the treatments and decreasing and what not, does that only apply to steel tanks or do you have to do the same for aluminum tanks?
The tank lining is indeed for steel only. The liner is there to prevent the tank from rusting from the inside out. I am REALLY unhappy with how the tank coating turned out so I’m considering starting over with aluminum. Aluminum doesn’t rust so you can just leave the aluminum bare. 🙌
Great video as always! I think the best option for bending the angled bends like that isn't cheap... most likely a large cnc press brake with individual lower finger dies, like the top punch fingers just on the bottom. Which will allow the angles to bend with out hitting, cant tell you how many times I designed something with angled bends and realized I had no good way to do so lmao.
That’s brilliant! I’ve been mesmerized by videos of those in action and forgot they existed. That should be easy enough to make a simple version in a hydraulic press. Thank you, Brother! Knew I could count on you. 👊
Anytime my dude, ya very true could make a simplified version for a press or sheet brake!
I don't think we ever got the reveal on the finished tank, did we?
We did not! Don’t feel left out, I didn’t get the reveal either! 😆
I am still not finished! I was incredibly dissatisfied with the tankliner, and I’m still trying to decide what to do with it. For example, fill the tank with aircraft paint stripper and hope I can flush it all out? Bring the tank to a place that has a large kiln and bake it out? There will be a follow up video in the near future, because I’m going to need them out the tank soon. Hopefully it won’t be a “starting over” video. 😬
I spent years on CNC benders. For trapezoids and any other high wall shapes, you have to use raised tooling and use beds sides. It is not possible on all benders. Hydraulic benders have sides open, therefore in correct sequence you're able to bend shapes very deep/high. Not 100% of them, but good 99% out of them.
This may be my next purchase. (Or build) It’s incredible how often I find myself stuck and unable to create what seems to me to be a simple part because my tooling won’t allow it.
It’s like the finger brake punishes me for thinking outside the box. Pun intended.
Thank you, Daniel! 🙏
@@GarageFab CNC hydraulic benders are incredible in terms of efficiency, speed and accuracy. You can bend repeatable angles on material up to 12 mm (100 tonnes press), with accuracy of 0.05 mm.
I like bending as bend offer much higher strength than weld. No HAZ.
Is work-hardening not an issue? That’s going beyond my range of knowledge to be honest.
Also, I don’t yet hand $50,000 burning a hole in my pocket for a hydraulic press. 😂
@@GarageFab Hardening with bending? No. Thick mayerial gets gently warm up to 50C when bended fast.
Here is tip you may not know about. Sheet metal always has grain one direction. Always bend thick steel or SS with grain, not across grain. With grain 9 of 10 won't crack at bend. Perpendicular to grain 3-4 if 10 will crack at bend, deeply at times. Material half inch thick and higher.
To fight with this, you want to use wider V, bottom tool. Rule of thumb is 5 to 6 times wider V than material thickness. For thick stuff I go with times 8 wider. For half inch it would be 4 inch wide bottom tool, giving 4 inch radius to material with 90 deg. bend.
It is hard one, as with plasma/water/laser cutting, you will not get good efficiency with some flat stuff. Sheet metal always comes in sheets 1.2 x 2.4 m. With some cutting product to bending surface efficiency drop below 50% which is pretty low. Rest material is wasted.
Thank you for the info, Daniel. Very much appreciated! 🙏
you should take a look at a early 90's nissan 240sx fuel pump assembly :D also radium makes an amazing dual pump version if needed its similar and is made for a taller tank and has the fuel level sender on the fuel pump assembly thanks for the knowledge
ps its always a fun cool idea to put a drain plug on fuel tanks somewhere :D
Thank you Nicholas! I’ll look into it. I still haven’t decided if I’m going to keep the Eclipse stuff.
to do the trapezoid shape, you really need a real press brake where the ram goes straight up and down. you could probably do it in one of those at home kits that fit in a press if you can make the punch in removable teeth like the box and pan (finger) brake.
Agreed! That’s definitely something I hope to purchase or build in the near future, Marshall. I suspect the V block would also need to be customizable. I haven’t seen that though. 🤔
@@GarageFab In the shops I have worked in that have Press Brakes, we were always making custom dies to press different shapes. We never threw them out and there was a place in the tool room with numbered dies and drawings of their shapes in a notebook. When you needed a special shape you consulted the book and selected an existing die if you have one. We had a selection of 90 degree V dies that lived in the brake. Your trapezoid could be easily made is a press brake. If you have room for a hydraulic bench press you can make a small press brake out of it but, the size of your project will be limited to the press you have.
Hope this helps.
You got my juices flowin! I’ve never wanted a press brake more.
@@GarageFab you just make the bottom sectional like the fingers at the top. Most ram style brake presses have sectional bottoms.
I wonder if I should invest in this rather than the magnetic brake I’ve been saving up for. 🤔
Well don't worry it's perfect enough and even I screw up sometimes. Well not really I never screw up actually but, "skill is measured in our ability to fix our own screw-ups. "
Couldn’t agree more. 👏
And I feel accomplished making a little 4" wide 90 deg brake for my shop press to make brackets easier...bent 3/16" like butter...Guess I gotta up my game a bit
And you should feel accomplished! I still don't have a shop press or a press brake and I'm often in need of one. I still hammer over flat stock in a vice to make brackets. Kinda embarrassing, but I just don't have the room yet. In time, a homemade press, followed by a homemade press brake will be videos on this channel. Might be a little while though. I've got to clear some space first.
Cheers my friend!
@@GarageFab I was workin on a tiny project. Had some 3/16" thick brackets ya know to make it solid lol. Then it took way too long to hammer heat and bend those brackets and they have hammer divits all over it...finally said fahget it. I'm makin a little bracket press so I can make these little brackets and others. Took way to long...but now I can bend a 90deg on 3/16" in about 30 sec and it looks good.
If you get the shop press don't go smaller than the 20T and get the HF air bottle jack...it's soooo much better/easier than the regular pump handle
Good tip! And I’ll take your advice. Thank you!
if you cant get the angles with a finger brake, only thing i can think of are those forming dies but thats expensive and only makes the one part (commerical sheet metal roofing fabricator and installer by trade)
Forming dies? You’ve got my attention. Are you thinking similar to what a Pullmax machine would use?
@@GarageFab look into hydraulic press brakes, some have very specific dies but make crazy complex shapes in one "press" (like the main block will come down, the the sides pinched, then another spot bent). for the shape you want i could only think of that or stamping
Excellent. I’ll check them out. Thank you.
But its super easy to extend the pump! Also Autometer sells universal senders...
I might be going that route, Bill! My attempt at lining the tank failed miserably. (Update coming soon) So I’m thinking of purchasing an aluminum fuel cell. 🤔
11:20 talk about a light show! 😎🔊
I know right? It was that shot that prompted the warning at the beginning. I started getting woozy after editing that clip for 5 minutes.
Wtf is this production quality, holy smokes. A+
+rccsrGaming. Thank you! That means a lot.
I recently found your channel!!! Loving the content, filming and editing style. Top notch bro!!!!
Thank you, Brother! I appreciate you. Hopefully you’ll stick around. I’ve got a pair of LS engines for the next UA-cam project and zero LS knowledge. 😬 Imma need all the help I can get!
@@GarageFab I’ll definitely be sticking around. You find the LS is hands down the easiest engine to work on.
That’s good to hear because I’m terrified of it. I’m a Toyota certified technician specializing in Toyota and Lexus. Those are easy!
First question; I bought a car with a misfire in cylinder 6 and a code for cylinder 6 injector circuit. I replaced that injector. Test drove it. All good. Almost immediately cylinder 1 injector circuit code popped up. I replaced that one. Almost immediately injector circuit code for cylinder 7. 🤦🏻♂️ Any ideas what’s happening?
@@GarageFab I’m a Toyota guy too, I’ve had many, currrently have an FJ cruiser. I used to have a Supra but gave up on it, after blowing up three 7MGTE’s, and one 1JZ, I figured I’m not a good enough mechanic to screw with modifying supras.
I was a jet mechanic in the military 20 years ago, but that’s the only professional experience I have. Currently I’m a so/so hobby mechanic, wanna be novice fabricator.
Your issue to me sounds like debris in your fuel system. Have the fuel lines been changed? Have you changed your fuel filter? Injector failure isn’t a common problem. Personally I’d start with flushing the fuel lines then change the fuel filter (stock filter should be located on the passenger side frame rail under the cab). Did the car sit for an extended period with garbage fuel?
I think it did sit for at least a few months. I purchased from it from someone that couldn’t afford to fix it. Debris has also crossed my mind. That would explain the misfire but I wouldn’t expect a “circuit code”.
I hope to help you become a slightly more than novice fabricator! 😂
Nice job on the tank. Hey did you pressurize the tank before u sealed it to check for pin holes in your welds
Yes and no. I pressurised it momentarily to force all the walls uniformly outward because the welding warped the walls slightly, but it did not stay pressurised long enough to check for leaks. I did fill with water though and checked that way.
I guess my thinking was that the tank liner would seal any tiny holes if there were any.
Beautiful episode !
Thank you my friend. 🍻
What’s the thickness of the metal sheet?
I used 16 gauge. 1/16”
What mug gun do you have?
I don’t know what the specific model is, but it’s the one that came with my Esab Fabricator 252i.
I was thinking that calculating volume in imperial would ususally go faster. What would happen if we had fractions on all 3 sides?
Full lenght video just for that?
I am kidding. Great video as usual.
That sounds like math! You will likely never see a full video on math here. Math and I aren’t friends.
Thank you my friend!
Just curious.....why did you use steel vs aluminum or stainless steel?
Ability mostly! I’d very much prefer aluminum but I don’t have the skills or the machinery needed to AC Tig at the moment. Severely regretting it now because the tank liner is not meeting my expectations.
@@GarageFab
Thanks. That's good to know. I'm looking to have a custom size and shape tank built for my old truck. I'll have them use aluminum.
Keep posting videos!
Yep. Try that process by starting with an old tank and tell me how ya feel!😵💫 it’s more than all day, that I can promise. Gotta have at least two sub-projects just to stay awake…a great mind once said-“always move forward “
Why line the tank at all? I guess it is possible to get some water in fuel. Is that the concern?
I’m in Vegas where it’s incredibly dry, yet somehow moisture finds its way into the fuel tank. I’ve built a few tanks in the past without lining them and they didn’t last long. 😬
@@GarageFab Thanks for the quick answer! Just discovered your channel and subscribed. I think you convinced me to build a tank for my Triumph TR7 instead of laying out the $700 landed for a new one. I will line it then.. TR7 has the filler cap on the top of the deck.. a bit water prone. If you have water trouble in Vegas..!!!?! I'm in Dallas..monsoon season here now :-)
Thank you Mike! Thrilled to have you. I don’t know if moisture is absorbed from the air, or if there’s some water in the fuel… it’s a mystery.
Yes, line your tank or electro plate it, but don’t use the POR15 I used. I wasn’t happy with it at all! I was advised by some knowledgeable people that a two part epoxy liner is the only way to go. I don’t have any experience with it though.
Lemme know what you do!
Awesome job man.
No drain though.
I'm thinking of building a cell for my 1G. The fuel level indicator may be bad on my car due to a F up by me and the seal leaks due to the same guy who messed up the fuel level indicator trying to use old parts. If I build one, I'll probably do aluminum and buy a boat fuel level indicator and make my own pump mount. But I probably won't do any of that. I'll probably just fix my leak and get a new/used sending unit. But cool video. I'm off to check out more of your videos.
Thank you, Jospeh! I laughed the whole way through that comment.
I intend to drain my tank using the engine. 😉 I’m a Toyota technician by trade and they don’t come with drains. A lot of my ideas come from the vehicles I work on every day.
I’d love to gain the skill to build an aluminum tank. The day will come eventually.
Your time is greatly appreciated my man! Cheers!
Where did you get that 48” brake? Looks familiar
Familiar? It was on loan from my old boss. I don’t have it anymore unfortunately. And fortunately at the same time. I hated that thing!
@@GarageFab was your old boss named Frank? Only asking because mine was borrowed from a frank to build a dash in a s-10. Then somehow his shop was “broken” into and my brake ended up missing. Even had the casters I welded on there.
That was getting interesting for a moment! I had a feeling it was something like that. But no luck. My boss was Wally. I don’t know where he got it, but the wheels were mine. I call them “socks” They’re casters that are welded to short lengths of square tubing that slipped over the legs. That way I can use the same casters on multiple tools/tables in the shop.
@@GarageFab yeah probably just a coincidence. Being a fellow fabricator and local las vegan I dig your channel. Keep up the great work.
Also a good thing you added the other flanges how were you going to full it without at least one of them
I just realized that I didn’t include the filler neck install in this video 😬
I seen it at the end I realised how it worked then but that video is gold how did the liner hold up after it took so long to apply like 3 days with it in tank rotate every 2 hours then drain it and then wait 90 aomthing hours for it to cure completely how's it held up ?
Well, Jamie, there will be an update in about a month or so, but spoiler alert, I hate the liner. Now I have to try and figure out how to get it out. If I can’t, I’ll have to start over on the tank. Or better yet, but one. 🤔
hint..if you drill some holes on the insides of the corners, when you go to use your 4.5 inch disk cutter... you wont over cut the part that you are making,, the disk cutter will ( you will ) stop at the holes that you cut.. and to make sure it wont leak after you grind down the weld.. solder the weld lines with solder.. easy to use and will stop those pesky pinhole leaks
Very good advice. I’ll be trying both. Thank you my man!
after watching few episodes I conclude one thing with strong conviction... metric system rulez ;)
Haha! Yes it does! I tried to make the switch. Then realized that no one else switched with me and keeping track of two measurement systems wasn’t feasible. 😩 One day we’ll switch. I’ll be dead by then I’m sure, but it’ll happen.
Nice tank. Great job. Great video!!
Thank you! 👍
You complete the form on brake press with many small increments like a square to round
what caliber do you use
Hey Brother! I’m assuming you’re asking about the metal thickness. The stuff I used for the tank walls was 16 gauge, 1/16th of an inch, or 1.5mm.
@@GarageFab you made a gas tank for a 96 chevy stepside to put it under the bed in the back
You do great work. Any chance you could make a tank for my 1989 Ford Ranger? I am having a hard time repairing the plastic tank and they don't sell new ones. I am in Las Vegas.
Hey Robert! Thank you my friend. 🙏
I’m sorry, unfortunately at the moment I cannot. I’ve got a million excuses. Wanna hear em? The sheet metal brake I’ve been using was a loan, and the owner just recently took it back. Now I’m looking for a magnetic brake but I’m not sure when I’ll get one. And since starting UA-cam, I haven’t had the time to accept side work.
Ok maybe just two excuses, but still…
@@GarageFab ok. Thanks for getting back to me.
What thickness of material?
16 gauge!
keep moving forward ... all day ... then repeat this step
Yes. Do that!
all day ... then repeat this step ... all day
Yes! Do that!
How thick did you go
I'm assuming you mean sheet metal. 16 gauge/16th ish inch.
No idea how thick the liner is though I'm going for as thick as possible.
The directions say coat and drain but I didn't drain.
OMG, haha, you ROCK!!! Thanks for the great tips! Get'n to work!
Thank you, Wendy! 🙌
If the tank was stainless steel, do you still have to seal it?
I’d imagine with stainless or aluminum there would be no need to line the tank unless your welds are leaking. My line was used to try to prevent rust since I don’t have the ability to weld anything but steel at the moment. 😔
@@GarageFab Thanks! I just bought a Lincoln LE31MP. I hope that thing can weld stainless steel. I am sure I need to make a tank for a pickup I want to rebuild. If is not possible I'll do it your way
Hi I’m looking to raise a diesel fuel tank about a foot higher than it is with a custom tank with the original pipes/ adjusted, sender etc would their be any issues with fuel flow do you think?
I can't be sure without seeing it for myself but if I understand you correctly you want to make a deeper tank and extend the pump assembly extended to reach the bottom. If I'm correct you shouldn't have any problems. I'd advise that you ensure the fuel pump rests near the bottom of the tank. Fuel pumps generally only have pushing capability (no vacuum or sucking) so the pump must be primed (or soaked) in order for it to operate properly. As long as the fuel level doesn't drop below the pump I'd think it should be fine. I'd be happy to check out some photos if you've got them. You can shoot them to either of my Instagram accounts. @mankandy_kreations or @garagefab
Good luck!
@@GarageFab excellent thanks for the advice
Anytime
First off you hilarious!! Second off watts link 😍😍😍😍 wifey did goood picking you!! 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you! It's coming! Watts link is definitely coming. 👏
Great you share your idears and skills
It’s my pleasure, Peter! It keeps me going. 👍
scene at "all day" was ... hilarious
🙌
Awesome inspiration
Thank you, Rick! I appreciate you. 🙏
Volume in cubics inches without converting to cu ft.
Example:
10”x12”x16”= 1920 cu inches
1920/1728 * 7.48 = 19.7 gal
1728 equal number of cu in in a cu ft
7.48 equals number of gallons in a cu ft
Much appreciated! Math is still gross though. 😆
The "ALL DAY" had me rollin!! I feel your pain I've used that on a 1950s era tank and it works great but takes a week outta your life.. lol
I might be stripping it too. I've never been more unhappy with anything in my life! I think I'm going to fill the dang thing with Aircraft Stripper and hope I don't hate life afterwards.
@@GarageFab really? Man it worked excellent on the tank I did. That stinks. I can only imagine how much that's gonna suck.
Did you use the same brand? The first coat didn’t appear to cover well so I coated it again. And then again. It took several coats to completely cover the steel. Then when it dried, a large bubble formed between the steel and the coating like on a pizza crust. I had people tell me the single part coatings deteriorated on them and gummed up their fuel system and they’ll only use two-part epoxy coatings now.
And so now I’m scared. 😳
@@GarageFab yes same exact brand and kit you used. Makes me wonder if it needs the rust and pitting to bond too? It's only been 8 months since I did it and it was for a dealership so not sure on long term results. I did each step as you did except I did use the cleaner solution and had a rusty old tank.
I hope it doesn't start to peel and gum up the fuel system.. now I'm worried..lol
Time will tell I guess. 😐
Always wondered how electro plating inside of a gas tank would hold up 🤔
That's really interesting. I barely know what electroplating is. I had to look it up. Apparently chrome is technically electroplating.
In my brief research car manufacturers already use electroLESS plating inside tanks which is a similar process but with chemicals. Also by it's description it's not an attractive coating. Similar to galvanized but if it works it works. I kinda wish I didn't put this crap in my tank now. 😕
@@GarageFab do a bit more research on diy electroplating, I'm currently trying to restore an old gas tank, I also came across black oxide seem very easy alternative
Will do! Thank you
@@GarageFab thank you for a very informative youtube channel 🙏🏾✌🏾
Land rovers have a small reservoir to collect water and dirt
Is it designed to collect water and dirt?! 😆
I'm just curious why you use highland steel I've been buying stuff in the Sun for 18 years I used to use those guys all the time but they have really bad especially the lady at the I'm curious why you don't just use Kurtis steel they give you a better deal anyways
Haha! That’s funny you mention the lady up front. When I first started going, she was unfriendly and unhelpful. Maybe she knows my face now and knows I’m always smiling because now she’s a joy to work with.
I use Highland for ALL the reasons! They’ve consistently been cheaper, Curtis never answers the phone or returns calls, (Highland always does.) and most importantly, they’re open on Saturdays. I have a day job with the same hours as Curtis so I can only go on lunch and sometimes an hour isn’t enough.
Love the dude at the counter at Curtis, but the convenience just isn’t there. 👊
@@GarageFab dude thanks for the reply I totally agree with what you're saying the other guy at highland pretty cool though I will have to say
My pleasure my friend. Have a great week.
Hopefully you didn't waste your damage cookie and spilled milk! 😁 Oh yeah , nice job on the tank!
I'd never waste a Ding Dong. I've got video of it getting eaten. Maybe I'll put it in a blooper reel one day. Thank you!!
I know I’m late but why not use a piece of stainless tig rod for your fuel level rod. Sorry just found your videos and I watched them all tonight lol. Great job!
Thank you, Luke! I just may do that. I dropped something on the float arm and broke it so I’ve got to do it again. I didn’t do that the first time because I don’t have any stainless TIG rod but perhaps I can find someone around here to loan me a stick.
Hey Candyman.. You know the way "bung" has you gritting your teeth when you try to use it?.. Ask one of your UK viewers about "flanges" Might just have you shying away from gas tanks altogether! 🤣 Love the site Mister.. a true diamond in an ocean mostly full of "bungs"! 😂
Haha! I had to do some research. Now that whole part of the video will never be the same for me. For the record, I prefer flanges over bungs.
Thank you my friend! 🙏
That poor cake. Lol kinda surprised you didn't pressure test the tank for leaks.
I likely will. One day. I was extremely unhappy with the tank liner. I’ll likely be attempting to strip it and then try again with another type/brand.
I won’t need the tank for another few months though so it’s unknown when that will be. 🤷♂️
the only video thanks a lot i will make a fuel tank also
Yes! Good luck my friend. 🍻
Length X Width X Height in inches divide by 231 = gallons. 27” x 16” x 12” / 231 = 22.441 gallons.
Nice! Thank you. I’ll try and remember that. 🍻
I would have ditched that pump and sender and used one with an integrated sender and of the right height for the 12" tank.
Can you tell me more? Like where to find this? I just might take your idea since I just broke my extended float off by sitting on it. Whoops!
@@GarageFab Any parts store or online, the hard part will be finding the right one. Most production cars/trucks use an integrated pump/sender assembly. Now that you have the flange for that pump you'll have to change it or try to find something with the same flange which will be harder, plus you'll have to match the resistance of the sender or modify it. At this point you're probably better off fixing what you have.
Agreed. I think this time I’ll find a way to dismantle the Mitsubishi pump and replace the entire float arm.
I appreciate you my man!
I have 3 points to make... #1-You clearly must have dropped that cake on a floor too dirty for the 5 second rule bc no decent man would waste a good cake!!!, #2-Awesome visualization using the cake and #3-Awesome vid!!! Got urself another sub!!!!
No cake was wasted in the making of this video. I am not a barbarian. Also I don’t believe in the 5 second rule and have the immune system to show for it. My rule is inspecting for visible debris and determining if it can be removed with basic tools in a reasonable amount of time.
Thank you my friend! Glad to have you. See you around!! 🙌
@@GarageFab 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
My wife dropped a piece of summer sausage on the floor....she brushed it off then popped it in her mouth...I expressed my disgust...and asked her how it was...she said sandy while giggling....LOL gee wonder why
@@mrmotofy 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
A little dirt, hair, and dead skin cells never hurt anyone.
This was an awesome video and I love the fuel tank. Very creative man keep up the great work.
Thank you, Brother! As for the fuel port, you didn't miss a thing. The end of this video got really weird. I was going to wait until the weekend to do the tank liner and make a separate video of it but then I decided to do it at work one day instead. I realized I hadn't put the fill spout in yet so welded it up real quick with our welder at work.
Then that night I decided to see what it would look like if I put the video of the lining process over the video of me reading the instructions and it turned out OK so I uploaded it immediately.
That explanation was even more confusing than the video itself. 🙄
I'll explain the fill spout in the reveal video because that too was taken from the Eclipse tank.
@@GarageFab i wish i had the motivation to do your quality of work!!
It's certainly not motivation, Brother. I struggle to motivate. If I actually do have quality it's thanks to my OCD.
Wow your in las Vegas to man
Yes Sir! 🙌
oh wow thats crazy!
Thank you, Chan! 🙏
Sick tank, good job 🤙🏾
Thank you!! 🙏
try buying a magnetic sending unit , much easier to install !
Tell me more, Tom! I haven’t heard of that. How does it work? The float arm that I extended broke on me when I accidentally sat on it. That just made me realize that might not be the best way. The tiny weld might just rust through in a couple months. 🤷♂️
im 3 years too late but you could have avoided the whole dimple trapezoid by extending the hanger and hoses on the pump hat assembly and gained that volume back.
You are correct! However the overall purpose was to not just make it work, but also to not have to re-modify the pump assembly if I needed to replace it. And because it’s been discontinued from Mitsubishi, I predicted having to replace it more than once.
Also a price break down of the costs would be good to add to the video title “ how to make a fuel tank for under $50” or whatever it is
Good looking out! I’d agree to that. There’s a new project coming and it’ll need a tank too so I’ll get another chance.
Maybe plating is a better option
Are you talking electroplating? Good idea. If I can succeed at removing all the liner I just might go that route. I’ll be updating.
@@GarageFab yes, should be easier, faster, and cheaper
@@GarageFab i think that liquid liner is meant for small motorcycle tanks, easier to coat something like that, they dont have baffles.
DUDE!!!!!
Total Break Envy
No way! Save your money Brother. Save up for a magnetic brake or or a press brake. This thing is more trouble than it’s worth.
@@GarageFab I have a press brake and a table brake. I just have a soft spot for old machinery.
@@sincitysanta Ah! I feel you. Still hate it tho. 😂
@@GarageFab 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 We all have that one piece of equipment 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Modify sender to reach 12" bottom.
I don’t understand. 🤔
@@GarageFab if you can fabricate a gas tank you can extend fuel line and bracket 6" instead of fabricating that large recess in tank🤷♂️ awesome video though. Thanks for making it
My pleasure, David. You are correct. But should the fuel pump housing crack (as the Eclipse housings often do) I’d have to re-modify the new one as you cannot separate the housing from the pump bracket.
I like to build things with ease of future maintenance in mind.
@@GarageFab right on
What thickness steel are you using? I want to make a bigger fuel tank for my Unimog, when I Googled "what gauge steel" it came back as 12G. Yours looks a bit lighter than 12G. Edit: Ah fuck, just read your description properly...16G. I liked your video though, nicely edited, not too much chat and one of my favourites with build videos is speeding up the long processes.
You’ve got impressive eyes! I used 16 gauge which is still thicker than a lot of modern metal tanks. Certainly not indestructible but still pretty beefy.
@@GarageFab Not so much the eyes, but the way you were cutting it with those shears, I don't think you could get away with using the shears on 12g.
Truth. I wouldn’t try cutting anything thicker than 16 with those shears. I’d be really sad if they broke.
@@GarageFab I might have to get some of those shears. I use a plasma setup now but it is a hassle for small cuts and those with a slight radius.
The electric shears are not at all great for turns. But still worth every penny.
i like your vids!
Thank you my friend!
Didn’t expect to see you play with a ding dong on camera!
Gotta know the UA-cam loop holes.
Oh, if only you had metric!
That first volume calc would be 6.86x4.1x1.5 decimeters = 42.2 cubicdecimeters, which - because metric - 42.2 liters! Damn simple right?
No need for using lengths of grains of barley to define volume derived from the Romans, who used letters for numbers… but oh well…
Still love your videos!👍🏻😉
Hahaha!!! Grains of barley. 😂 Tell me about it Christian. I hate hate hate our measurement system. Passionately. I tried to switch to metric in my own personal shop (even re-purchased every measuring device I own in metric) but then quickly realized that unless all my parts and materials suppliers also switched, it would actually be more work constantly converting back and forth.
@@GarageFab Stick with it! You work on jap cars, they are metric, and more and more american cars are too. Since I’m in Denmark, I have no personal experience, but I’ve heard that when you take some measurements on US cars, like between balljoints, that are i.e. 7” 111/127, and think “why didn’t they go easy 8”???” It’s because it’s actually 200mm…
It’s sooo much easier! Take thread, M8 is…. Wait for it… wait….. YES! 8mm’s (the head would be 13mm if it’s a european car and 12mm if it’s japanese)
Btw almost all the YT’s I watch are in imperial, so I have to constantly convert to grains of barley😉
Well im watching this in june of 23 and we all know its pride month so the use of the word bung sounds about right haha
🤦🏻♂️
This guy has a sienfeld look thing happening there.
Haha!! Unsure if I should take that as a compliment. I personally don't care for the guy but he did something right.
...Thank you!
IM LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE A HYD. 225 TON PRESS BRAKE! BUT GOOD JOB!!!!!!!!!!!
Geez. Is there anything that thing can’t do?
@@GarageFab Can't make me breakfast
Truth.
All Day
🙌
FLANGES ... final answer ?
Final answer