Quick tip for the issue with paint roller fuzz is to wrap it in blue painters tape, squeeze it tight, and then rip it off like a band-aid. You'll see all the loose stuff come right off onto the tape. Loving the "I'll go do it myself and I'll do it better" projects
9:34 "A good rinse with water will wash of the de-greaser" (and the oil) ... all into the f'n groundwater. Am I in the wrong movie? Is this from 1930? ... Holy effn mother nature.
What I also like is that road-trip argument (heavy price differences in gas between the US States). Why not drive through the US with an unmarked, unlicensed 90(?) gallon tank full of combustible fluid? FBI: Wait a minute ... (Well, that is the USA) Without any crash test certificates or stability engineering specifications or street legal papers (Well, that is the USA, too ... or?:) ) see: "Safety and environmental standards for fuel storage sites", "Requirements for storage and handling of gasoline on ... - OSHA", etc. Ouch!
@@dieSpinnt An ounce or two of degreaser isn't going to harm anything. It's not like back in the day when guys would pour their used oil in a hole in the backyard.
Consider putting high flow quick connects on the pump outlet and hose end that way you can easily remove hose when not using and store in truck tool box
I suggest using POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer to line the inside of the tank. It's a great add on to prevent the inside of the tank from rusting when it's not completely full of fuel.
This stuff eventually comes apart and makes a mess. Presumably he can just keep this thing full most of the time and then it will never be an issue. Plus he could add a port on the tank to vacuum the air out of it and solve it that way.
@@sidescrollin That's funny I've been using it for over 20 years and never had a problem with it, now if you don't apply it correctly it can fail. However I'd go out on a limb and say 90% of the failures are human error and 10% contaminates in the fuel causing issues. I've used on it on everything from my semi fuel tanks to kerosine tanks and never had any issues at all.
@@xTRUCKERxGAMESx I've dealt with multiple old fuel tanks where it or something like it had clearly been used and then separated from the inside in sheets. Nearly impossible to get cleaned out after that The thing is most fuel tanks are bare steel inside and they last ages, mostly because they are usually full of fuel most of the time. If you just clean the tank out that's all you need and there's never a product inside to fail. Matter of fact the acid product used to etch the tank for por15 or other liners is great for that.
AND $1600.00 later I learned about coating the interior of a steel fuel tank when I had to have my injector pump rebuilt because of rusting. Aluminized Steel or Aluminum is all I'll use in the future. @@devinmoodley4061
I would have made sure to install an anti syphon baffle to the fill port side of the tank to prevent more unscrupulous people from "sharing" your fuel too ;)
the one thing i would recommend for anyone going to build a tank like this is the fold as many sides up as possible to minimise the amount of welding/ leak points for the tank, even if you have to pay someone to fold them it'll make everything a lot easier and a more leak free guarantee
Hello from the Netherlands. in that piece of pipe between the pump and the filter you could place a liquid pressure switch so that the pump switches off electrically when you stop pumping that also improves the life of your pump because it stops building up pressure . thanks for the video Waldo . Sincerely, Hollandduck
For all of you guys asking about pressure testing the tank, we used to use diesel oil to check the welds on new fuel storage tanks when I used to build them for various oil refineries. You can spray it on the inside with a pump sprayer and if there are pinholes it will creep through the other side pretty quickly. We also used a soapy solution with a vacuum box on water storage tanks.
So you could use agriculture diesel which is usually far cheaper for your home heater and your heavy equipment, but don’t get caught using it in your trucks regular tank
Make sure you keep that steel tank full as much as possible. If you run it low and let it stay like that, it will start to rust on the inside and then you get a ton of crap floating around that’ll clog your filter and possibly get through to your equipment.
@@JV-pu8kx on the Huey’s and cobras I work with, they have a fuel cell made of a rubber type stuff. If I were to do something like what Waldo has done, I’d do aluminum hands down every time. It’s lighter and won’t corrode as quick at all.
I saw NNKH put some sort of coating inside one of the tanks that he wanted to use on one of the Will it Run cars. Maybe there would be a solution for this issue. Have to check out later what was that liquid called.
You did a really good job building that transfer take. It fits your truck perfectly and that aluminum paint blends in with the aluminum bed really nice. If I can make one suggestion I would recommend going to your local Department of Transportation and seeing if they can do a DOT pressure test and certification on that tank, that way heaven forbid if you ever did get in a car accident with your truck and had a diesel spill they won't give you a big ticket for having a transfer take not certified by the DOT. If you were only using it on your own property and never left your property I would not worry about getting it certified. The reason store-bought transfer tanks are so expensive is your paying for the DOT certification that comes with the tank.
Negative. Only manufacturers of tanks are required to pass the different tests. They don't test each tank either; just one per batch or probably less than that, with the idea that all the tanks are built exactly like the one that passed. DOT reads the test report on that one tank, then they give the company a certification code that works for months or years for that model tank. The test will render a tank unsaleable (engulfing in flames and dropping from 30ft directly onto its feed tube on pavement). This is why Waldo should not have his tank tested by the fictional DOT testing team which doesn't exist. Manufacturers test in-house. They build and write certification markings on their own tanks. A DIY like Waldo's, or even if Waldo sold a tank to a friend in a private trade, the only thing the tank MUST have is a rollover check valve on any vent, plus markings: "capacity in gal" + "don't fill beyond 95%". Gravity feeding to the main tank's feed tube is perfectly legal for diesel, with fittings allowed below the full liquid line. Gasoline must have fittings above the full line. Gravity feeding direct to carb, rail, or injector is not allowed. Yes, the DIY tank should be built to the specs such that it can pass those DOT tests in theory, but it's not required to be actually tested, certified, or marked unless Waldo started manufacturing them commercially.
Any tool boxes ive made so far i always plan for 1 inch spacers so that you can blow out debris with either a leaf blower or an air compressor, setting things metal on metal seems to hold moisture , dirt gets stuck, and accelerates corrosion. So far it has worked really well for me.
I was thinking the same thing. I have used Body mount pucks as spacers and they work really well. Schmutz inevitably works its way under the tank, especially in rainy/snowy areas, and that always causes problems. I use plated hardware too.
I did the same thing g for about 5 years. My heating oil supplier was bought out. Then out of the blue they wouldn't fill my tank. It was a older system and it didn't have a alarm on the vent. I bought a 50 gallon transfer tank and a pump. The irony of it is I would have to drive about 15 miles to a gas station that was owned by my heating oil supplier. I could by fuel oil at the pump. I am currently changing out my 30 year old tank and installing new fill and vent lines. That tank came out great. Better than bought for sure.
Hey Waldo! Welding some really big I beams at work a technique we use to avoid warping is back stepping. Where you weld say right to left in increments but you progress from left to right over the length of the piece. It also makes ties in a bit cleaner since you can weld into the crater. Hope that makes sense
Waldo , puppies and kids are impossible to compete with! Was barely Able to listen to your excellent reasoning. Really respect how you just Get it DONE ! You are great at it . Your videos are Awesome ! Thank you
Hey Waldo I really like your videos I showed my welding and manufacturing teacher and now he can’t get enough on how much I’ve learned from watching your videos and he’s learned stuff too so thank you so much
Love your videos and your fabrication skills. I feel like after watching these I could go out and do it myself. Also, the "Here's some puppies while I'm explaining things" should be industry standard.
double wall or rust proof the interior if you are making one. Fuel will contain a little bit of water and that can lead to internal rust. Also a drain valve at the bottom
@@ddjohnson9717 exactly my thoughts, and I'd put a fuel pump with some sort of meter to avoid any possible mess or to keep track of how much fuel is left in the tank
That was the fastest 15 minutes I've experienced in a while. It's like trying to pace yourself eating Salisbury steak and cutting the pieces smaller and smaller trying to make it last longer. Thanks from Greenland NH.
Great video, another thing you can do to try to save money and pay off the tank is buy during the yearly lows, before memorial day, holidays, etc, and use your fuel you bought at the lower price rather than buying whenever your main tank is empty, I filled up over 300 gallons in multiple transfer tanks when diesel was around $1.50 here during covid and cashed it all out when it was above $4.50 again so about $900 in savings by just playing the market.
Nice build Waldo, I also enjoyed watching you build your gooseneck trailer too, I built one we still use for hay mostly close to 50 years ago, thank you! I did the same thing with diamond plate aluminum about 95 gallons, the filler bung screw-on cap you have, you can get the same one with a black hinged flip-over-the-cap piece that you can put a padlock on to prevent someone from easily siphoning fuel out when you park and go into a restaurant or motel, it only takes a few minutes if they're watching you, and with fuel prices like they are... They're only about $5.00 more than the one without the locking arm at any farm supply store. I didn't see you pressure test it; I'm guessing you did that off camera. I made mine to pump fuel from the big tank into the truck tank on the 3500 dually. I filled up both tanks in Missouri, drove down to Fairhope, AL where we're building another house & horse farm, drove around town for a week and back to MO never stopping for fuel, where when I got home, I pumped in a full truck tank (34 gal) and had about an inch or so left in the big tank. I tuned my 6.6 Duramax, so I get about 26-28 mpg empty on the highway, less when colder out. The fuel pump filler switch I located on the dash, the pump's located between the tank and the filler tube under the truck, goes right in about a foot below the truck's diesel cap fill tube, with room for my FASS lift pump discharge back to the tank.
A 90 out of the pump with that pipe at on the 90 then another 90 would allow for the filter to be installed vertically to make replacement easy and minimize the mess!
Great video. I thought about it last night and I think if I did the same, I'd build it upside down, and paint the inside with that por 15, or similar waterproofer for fuel tanks, then weld the bottom on, and do another coat, slosh style, to cover that area. That way you can ensure you got all the areas that will be least exposed to fuel, and any areas on the bottom that might have been missed would be covered by fuel anyway. Great job tho, just thinking out loud. Seems like a no brainer to make these if you have the welding gear.
Add a cam lock disconnect and put the hose in one of your lock boxes. Tap in an anti siphon and then the only thing you need is a lock. Might want to research mitigation of galvanic corrosion.
I'm once again very impressed with your range of skills. You're in league with Camarata in many ways and surpassing in others. Glad I found your channel!
@@WaldosWorld You really do have skills!! Awesome skills for not being a formally trained mechanical engineer...and I am a formally trained mechanical engineer working in the auto industry as IT!! LOL Keep up the great videos, I really enjoy them and I am learning new stuff which is always great.
I used to build fuel tanks for a major fertilizer tenders. Couple tips.. do longer welds (starts and stops is where it will leak) if you do stop feather the stop with a grinder. Smaller tacks on your corner joints is key (so you dont have to feather your tacks) . Keep the wire in the middle of the corner joint. When you check for leaks if you do have a leak, use a grinder with a cut off wheel and grind the corner joint out. Turn your welder down a bit and burn it in. This will get the leak fixed the 1st time. With enough practice you will have fewer and fewer leaks. Good luck!
Another great video Waldo . I like the fact that you don't verbalize a general love for perfection . So , it would seem that perfection is not your focus . However , based on results , you always seem to find your way to perfection . And I would also like to point out that your videos are never boring and are always too short . I would love to see you make longer videos as they are really enjoyable . As always , i wait here patiently awaiting your next installment . Thanks .
With that aluminum paint the trick is to use a foam roller and backroll several times as it dries and it will come out flawless. Keep up the awesome videos😁
Waldo great job on the tank! I thoroughly enjoyed this episode. My only suggestion is a lock on the handle for traveling. What an awesome addition this is to your collection. I feel you on Pennsylvania fuel prices. We bought a place in Kentucky and Pa is the most expensive gas on the trip to the point I try to avoid the state as much as possible. Maryland is only slightly cheaper than Pa, but you save where you can. Just an FYI for your travels.
I built a couple of tanks like that only with a box on top for pry bars and any tools that wouldn’t fit in the tool box. I had the metal co. Bend the pieces so there were only two pieces for the tank plus the baffles. I made it from 10 gauge because I had too much warping with 14 gauge.
Built a bunch of fuel tanks for field trucks to increase their capacity and range, great build, only thing we did different was to bend two cee shaped pieces so we could cut down on the number of welds. This was a large welding shop with a 6 foot break for bending sheet.
I left some features. I use 3/4 copper plumbing pipes to the pump connected to Harbor Freight Air Compressor Hose Reel, I use fuel delivery Hose and same type Nozzle for filling. I 1 each for Diesel and gas. My Cap. On each tank is bigger than yours and take less room. Looks nice. No hose dangling all over.
Turned out nice with the exception of one small detail that i am even hesitant to say because i really like your channel and do not want to even begin to be "THAT GUY" in the youtube comment section...OK, let me say that you do very very neat and clean work that always turns out awesome, but i was surprised with the quality of the final coat of paint on the tank. I loved the epoxy and the amount of prep time you spent to get it to adhere correctly. Maybe it just looked worse on camera than it does in person but it just seemed like it was full of runs and not as uniformed as i was expecting. It could be just the way that super thin aluminum paint was laying from the roller. I was expecting to see you spray it to get a super nice finish. Sorry if this is considered rude or anything, its not meant that way, its just a goofy thing that hit me as so opposite from what you usually do.
No worries! It actually probably looked better on camera than in person. It was too cold out and I guess I applied the paint too thick. It didn't run while I was painting, but when I came out to check it the next day, the runs had developed 🤷♂️
Thank you so much for adding the freedom unit to metric conversion annotations - made it easy to follow the reasoning and did not need to switch to the fluffy puppies, which also was a nice thought btw.
The price you guys are paying for heating oil is crazy! 😲 In the UK, we’re paying about 90 pence per litre, which works out about $3.86 per US gallon, and I though that was expensive 😕
Waldo!!!! I've missed you, Thank you for the Vid...And whoever dislikes this video, are you mad...My man out here spreading knowledge you can take with you for life........for free! Love it
If you use a finer nap roller the paint will come out smoother. You could have put both bungs on the same side so you don't have to go around. You could put 2 on each side for future uses. (future project). If you put a shorter nipple between filter housing and pump so there is less pressure on pump housing. Also hose won't sticking into cargo area as much. You could put an elbow coming out of filter housing. I put swivel fittings on my dispenser nozzles. Not expensive and a lot easier to position. Nice work!
for feeling the truck you have the option to add a solenoid valve (fuel/oil rated) and a small line going into the fuel tank of the truck to slowly add fuel to the trucks tank while driving via a switch in the truck. I have seen someone do this exact setup and they used 3/8 line and would start it adding fuel around 1/4 tank and stop at 3/4 ( stopping it so it could never overflow...) which worked surprisingly well.
My husband ( a retired trucker) said you have missed your calling. Dont waste your fabrication skills out driving hot shot. You could make far more and be home fabricating these trucks, trailers and fuel tanks and selling them. In our little town alone there are hot shot loads. You have the shop, the tools and the skill. You really should think about it. If we had the money, were younger we would be buying one from you.
Curious as to why you did not paint the inside of the tank, or at a bare minimum, the top half (where oxygen from the air, gets in)? That occured to me as I watched you assemble the tank. It's a very nice construction, I've seen "professional" tanks that were not nearly as well made. As for your house inlet, is it possible to put on a short vertical pipe extension? It looked like a normal iron pipe 90 bend to me. Nice job, as per your usual!
Seems like we’re thinking along the same lines. I just picked up a 74 gallon aluminum L tank with a tool box and manual pump for $500. Really glad I found it. The same setup new would be about $1700. I might never use an EPA can again. I guess I’m cheap. When it comes to projects I’m more of a rustolium kind of guy. Any color as long as it’s black.
A connection kit to your truck's feed tube is only $50 amz or ebay. Add $50 more for decent hoses, connectors, clamps, 12v solenoid valve, and a switch. Cool project.
@@FishFind3000 I think dot requires a flip over valve which is included in the kit. The tank at this moment has no flip over valve on its air vent, so isn't it illegal now?
ok i checked the dot regs. gravity or siphon feeding diesel from aux tank to main tank is perfectly legal. your fittings may also be placed near the bottom of the tank. only non-diesel liquid fuel tanks require fittings above the full liquid level. actual bottom-of-the-tank drain plugs/fittings may not exceed 3/4 inch below the liquid bottom level. roll-over check-valve vents ARE required. highly visible tanks, such as waldos, require two markings: liquid capacity in gallons and a disclaimer to not fill above 95% of tank capacity. Tank manufacturers are required to add some more markings, but i don't think that applies to DIY. Fuel lines need to be as big or larger than the existing ones, and lines can't be run more than two inches below the lowest fuel tank sump unless armored. lines must be protected from chafing and must have reasonable slack for thermal expansion and vibration. so my original comment was 100% legal and correct.
I dont think the baffles will do much in that orientation. sloshing mostly occurs when braking and accelerating. Also note that the tank can rust from the inside. great work though
I like it!! I just did the same thing and built a 90 gallon L tank that sits bed rail flush and used up more of the width. Was fun seeing your project here!
i would recommend doing full height baffles and just nipping the top corners of the baffles off it controls the fuel slosh just as well but adds support to the top for the pump can cause the top to flex until failure. I would also recommend adding a service panel to the top of the tank in case you need to get into it in the future for lets say a broken or damaged fuel pickup tube also you should look into getting a waterblock fuel filter instead of just a fuel filter as they will show how much water is in them and you can drain out the water in the filter
We started snowbirding, got us down heating oil costs to about 600€ per year (we have forest right behind our home and get wood for the heating fireplace going with the central oil heating almost for free. We usualy stack oil for four to five winters and buy according to long term charts. Global warming is going to make it about six actually.)(Fuel costs for 2x 2000km are about +/- € 600 - €15/100km) Snowbirding is best for the environment (millions of retieres should do every winter) - If I use a Toyota Prius or go fully electric. The today 50 to 55 years of age in the EU for instance could negotiate (1) with Morocco a particular 'EU qualified snowbird certificate' for instance, guaranteeing an EU minimum standard for accommodations, gas stations, etc. for EU-snowbird certificate holders 55plus. Eventually easier pass through both customs, a € 20 tax deduction for each of the two necessary short ferry trips to and from north africa - together with an from three to four month extend snowbird tourist visa, valid, if used so, december until end of march for instance. (1 - for their own future soon to come as well) As Obama once said, 'spreading democracy and rule of law best go hand in hand with doing good to the people as well'.
Only suggestion I have is to put 3/4” cam lock disconnects on the hose where it connects to the exit of the filter. That way you can remove the hose and handle to prevent people from eating to mess with it or the hose getting in the way. They do sell a cam lock plug you can put on the pump side to keep dirt, debris, salt, weather out of the pipe. Well done!
My dad built on for his truck many years ago. He put a pump to fill the OEM tanks in truck. 86 Ford 250 diesel. Worked like a charm. Illinois to California on one tank
The fuel tank look very good u did a great job on it keep making awesome videos on your channel the goose neck trailer looks very goof too keep up the great work
We built a lot of tanks in a fab shop but they always were air tested for leaks before painting. Didn’t matter if they were one gallon or 15,000 gallons, they all were tested.
Hello from Las Vegas Nevada I'm back, I love the music, and the video is perfect, thank you GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY GOD BLESS THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
Hey Waldo a small trick for you’re slip tank once come off the filter fittings use a high flo quick coupler like a hydraulic coupler female end then use a male on the hose so for to Store your hose so uv rays don’t eat your hose and also harder to steel fuel and if possible use a clear filter with the little drain spit too see if your getting water or anything in your tank
Wow you got some faith in your welds. Or did I miss where you pressure tested for leaks? A thought too; might want some means/manner of covering the pump hand/switch with a lockable cover so folks don't avail themselves of your diesel. Was also thinking a nice means of wrapping that hose up too. I will say your videos are so dang good. They started good, just keep getting better. Say hi to your pup for us!
Well for the first 3 minutes I heard nothing, but after that I enjoyed your build. Yes, I would look into coating the inside. Rust is my enemy! I appreciate all your builds/videos and look forward to each. Where is the Waldo Welds Merch? A coffee cup would be a great gift to myself this Christmas.
When I was a teenager, my dad had a friend with a diesel Rabbit and a VERY long daily commute. Heating oil was very cheap in those days - much cheaper than diesel fuel, which was (or course) a lot cheaper than it is now. The guy got a 2K gallon tank installed for heating oil, and filled it once a year. It easily fueled his car and heated his house, and saved him enough money to eventually pay for the tank. (Although he was stuck driving a Rabbit for a long time...)
If you get off-road diesel for your big equipment, is there any issue then putting normal in afterwards (that is, does the dye stick around problematically)? Let us know how it goes if you swap back and forth!
@@WaldosWorld Here in Denmark we also use dye in off-road fuel, meant for farmers and in marine equipment, and the dye will be visible for years in the tank and the fuel system, so if used in a on-road vehicle the police would be able to see it for years after.
@@WaldosWorld if it were me, I wouldn't switch back and forth. Through the rumor mill, dye found in an on road fuel system makes for quite unhappy law enforcement representatives. Your mileage may vary, but if you are thinking of using this for road trips and pull over someplace visible while transferring fuel, someone might want to check what you have in any tanks.
Both red and clear get delivered from the same tank on the delivery truck. Run it empty on red, then do a few fills of just a few gallons of clear and rinse it out. By the time you fill it up you won't see the red. I've carried both clear and red in the same transfer tank on a truck before
Something I learned is the amount of condensation that gets in the tank via the air and causes surface rust. This was in a motorcycle tank which is easy and cheap to keep topped up. Keeping it full and excluding air prevents this somewhat. Living near the sea in a humid climate has its down sides I guess. Best of luck.
Quick comment about the filler cap. Don’t push down and tighten if you close it all the way there will be no venting and it will spray when you try To open it. It will also make fueling a slow process because of improper airflow
I am tempted to build my own transfer tank now. I recently upgraded the diesel tank on my truck to a bigger capacity tank and the old tank is a 35 gallon transfer tank with built in pump for the time being. Cheaper alternative for the time being.
I realise that this is a one year old video, but it's so much more interesting than listening to other YT'bers shouting at the top of their lungs about how they will get SOMEONE ELSE to wrap their car etc and how good it looks. I've spent my whole life - like a good few of us - making my own stuff simply because I don't have the means to buy stuff new AND more importantly I get exatly what I want. Keep up the good work Waldo. Cheers and Kudo's for having moved out of California. New Hampshire is so much nicer, peoplewise too.
Another cost savings, if you can find offroad (dyed) diesel. Since your main use is for the furnace and construction equipment, you don't need to pay the road taxes. Just make sure there's none left when you go on the long road trips and fueling your truck form the tank. Awesome build on the tank!
the baffles should ha went to the top and slots cut to weld them stops tank top swelling and top from rattling makes it stronger and the list gos on i learned this the hard way also. thanks for sharing
You probably already know this, but you can buy offroad diesel for less money than regular diesel. The only difference is that they add a dye to make sure that you don't use it in your vehicle and avoid paying road taxes. Since you're using it for heating oil it isn't an issue for you. That fuel tank turned out great!
What I did, I made my own truck bed it’s Ford 450. My tank is part of truck bed. It’s 6 inches tall divided into 2 parts 50% Diesel other 50% gas. It’s same 14 gage outside is power coated. Top is 14 gage steel 1/4 inch diamond plate on top of 14 gage steel Transfer pumps under 12 inch tool box full width of flat bed, head is 6 inches taller then roof with lights for night time use. I use LED Lights. 5th wheel connections in the center on 3/4 inch steel plate. Nobody knows I have transfer tanks built in works great and huge capacity. O ya most important there are round sump 8 inches deep on both tanks from where fuel is pump. Hope you consider it on your next build.
I am putting a 15-20 gallon transfer tank on my side x side trailer. Inside a diamond plate side box. Just going to modify an aluminum fuel cell. They are under 200$ another option would have been bigger boat fuel cells if you have a boat junker near you they can be had fairly cheap if you want to crawl in there and pull one.
Ok ngl I was about to write a paragraph about how to properly secure a single sheet of metal on your flatbed but then I realized: 1. If it's short distances, then it's fine. 2. If it's lightweight then no worries. 3. It appears to be secured well enough so I shouldn't worry my head about it. Forgive me, I am a former flatbed driver and whenever I see other drivers rolling in throwing maybe 14 or 12 straps on a particular load that will be a definite 39 ton load I will go out of my way to not only help said drivers secure their load properly but also teach them how to do proper load securement for future reference. And I swear to god, if anyone complains, "Why are you throwing 20 or more straps on a load like this? it's only steel ingots and iron pipes you shouldn't have to worry about a measely 79k load", I do not care, I'd rather be safe than sorry and if anyone has a problem with that, tell it to the widows of the truckers who didn't take safety seriously. Ahem, forgive me. Rant aside I love your videos waldo.
Hello there! If I may ask, would you be doing an update on your Range Rover? You have not posted an update video in quite a while and to be honest I would love to see an update video on how the Range Rover is running now. You have a pretty amazing channel. Thanks and hello from Great Britain!.
I was thinking back about the flatbed build for this truck, wouldn't it be better to have some kind of insert covering the fuel filler port in the bed itself, that way what's under it will stay protected from the rain better, and it will look better.
Quick tip for the issue with paint roller fuzz is to wrap it in blue painters tape, squeeze it tight, and then rip it off like a band-aid. You'll see all the loose stuff come right off onto the tape. Loving the "I'll go do it myself and I'll do it better" projects
Interesting, thanks for the tip!
@@WaldosWorld I've had great success with painting with high density foam rollers too.
9:34 "A good rinse with water will wash of the de-greaser" (and the oil) ... all into the f'n groundwater.
Am I in the wrong movie? Is this from 1930? ... Holy effn mother nature.
What I also like is that road-trip argument (heavy price differences in gas between the US States). Why not drive through the US with an unmarked, unlicensed 90(?) gallon tank full of combustible fluid?
FBI: Wait a minute ... (Well, that is the USA)
Without any crash test certificates or stability engineering specifications or street legal papers (Well, that is the USA, too ... or?:) )
see: "Safety and environmental standards for fuel storage sites", "Requirements for storage and handling of gasoline on ... - OSHA", etc. Ouch!
@@dieSpinnt An ounce or two of degreaser isn't going to harm anything. It's not like back in the day when guys would pour their used oil in a hole in the backyard.
Consider putting high flow quick connects on the pump outlet and hose end that way you can easily remove hose when not using and store in truck tool box
Messy
Not if you use dry quick connectors. But they are a bit bulky and pricey
Where can you get quick disconnects? I've got 3/4 hose that I'd like to add a quick disconnect to.
@@michaelkemper9835skid steer quick connects would work great
I suggest using POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer to line the inside of the tank.
It's a great add on to prevent the inside of the tank from rusting when it's not completely full of fuel.
Por-15 is absolute magic
This stuff eventually comes apart and makes a mess. Presumably he can just keep this thing full most of the time and then it will never be an issue. Plus he could add a port on the tank to vacuum the air out of it and solve it that way.
@@sidescrollin That's funny I've been using it for over 20 years and never had a problem with it, now if you don't apply it correctly it can fail.
However I'd go out on a limb and say 90% of the failures are human error and 10% contaminates in the fuel causing issues.
I've used on it on everything from my semi fuel tanks to kerosine tanks and never had any issues at all.
@@xTRUCKERxGAMESx I've dealt with multiple old fuel tanks where it or something like it had clearly been used and then separated from the inside in sheets. Nearly impossible to get cleaned out after that
The thing is most fuel tanks are bare steel inside and they last ages, mostly because they are usually full of fuel most of the time.
If you just clean the tank out that's all you need and there's never a product inside to fail. Matter of fact the acid product used to etch the tank for por15 or other liners is great for that.
AND $1600.00 later I learned about coating the interior of a steel fuel tank when I had to have my injector pump rebuilt because of rusting. Aluminized Steel or Aluminum is all I'll use in the future. @@devinmoodley4061
I would have made sure to install an anti syphon baffle to the fill port side of the tank to prevent more unscrupulous people from "sharing" your fuel too ;)
the one thing i would recommend for anyone going to build a tank like this is the fold as many sides up as possible to minimise the amount of welding/ leak points for the tank, even if you have to pay someone to fold them it'll make everything a lot easier and a more leak free guarantee
I was thinking the same, we have a 12’ wide brake that can bend 1/4” steal, fold 3 sides,and just weld ends and baffles
You mean bend it? Lol
Hello from the Netherlands.
in that piece of pipe between the pump and the filter you could place a liquid pressure switch so that the pump switches off electrically when you stop pumping that also improves the life of your pump because it stops building up pressure .
thanks for the video Waldo .
Sincerely, Hollandduck
goeiemiddag!
@@Kristanoppersma hallo en goeden middag of inmiddels avond terug
Had en plastic 52 gallons gehaald en besteld vanuit Engeland verscheept naar Amerika , stalen tanks hier zijn kont maaten
why don’t you worry about what you guys do there and we’ll worry about what we do here 🤨
For all of you guys asking about pressure testing the tank, we used to use diesel oil to check the welds on new fuel storage tanks when I used to build them for various oil refineries. You can spray it on the inside with a pump sprayer and if there are pinholes it will creep through the other side pretty quickly. We also used a soapy solution with a vacuum box on water storage tanks.
So you could use agriculture diesel which is usually far cheaper for your home heater and your heavy equipment, but don’t get caught using it in your trucks regular tank
Do they check non-commercial diesel trucks fuel tanks? How do they even know that this private truck is a diesel to begin with?
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists well it’s kinda obvious, plus if you know anything about trucks you can tell what’s a diesel and what’s not.
@@FishFind3000 Government employees don't know their ass from a hole in the ground. A true "equal opportunity" employer for 'tards.
I’ve known two people to get their tank dipped and you pay hefty fines for it. Not worth the fines if you’re running it on the road constantly
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists commercial or not. AG fuel is for reefers and farm equipment not on road vehicles.
The Fluffy Puppies trick worked! I was mesmerized!
Make sure you keep that steel tank full as much as possible. If you run it low and let it stay like that, it will start to rust on the inside and then you get a ton of crap floating around that’ll clog your filter and possibly get through to your equipment.
Is there a coating that can be used? What do aircraft manufacturers use (besides aluminum instead of steel)?
@@JV-pu8kx aluminum
@@JV-pu8kx Commercial aircraft I have been close to use a flexible coating to line the fuel tanks.
@@JV-pu8kx on the Huey’s and cobras I work with, they have a fuel cell made of a rubber type stuff. If I were to do something like what Waldo has done, I’d do aluminum hands down every time. It’s lighter and won’t corrode as quick at all.
I saw NNKH put some sort of coating inside one of the tanks that he wanted to use on one of the Will it Run cars. Maybe there would be a solution for this issue. Have to check out later what was that liquid called.
You did a really good job building that transfer take. It fits your truck perfectly and that aluminum paint blends in with the aluminum bed really nice. If I can make one suggestion I would recommend going to your local Department of Transportation and seeing if they can do a DOT pressure test and certification on that tank, that way heaven forbid if you ever did get in a car accident with your truck and had a diesel spill they won't give you a big ticket for having a transfer take not certified by the DOT. If you were only using it on your own property and never left your property I would not worry about getting it certified. The reason store-bought transfer tanks are so expensive is your paying for the DOT certification that comes with the tank.
Negative. Only manufacturers of tanks are required to pass the different tests. They don't test each tank either; just one per batch or probably less than that, with the idea that all the tanks are built exactly like the one that passed. DOT reads the test report on that one tank, then they give the company a certification code that works for months or years for that model tank. The test will render a tank unsaleable (engulfing in flames and dropping from 30ft directly onto its feed tube on pavement). This is why Waldo should not have his tank tested by the fictional DOT testing team which doesn't exist. Manufacturers test in-house. They build and write certification markings on their own tanks. A DIY like Waldo's, or even if Waldo sold a tank to a friend in a private trade, the only thing the tank MUST have is a rollover check valve on any vent, plus markings: "capacity in gal" + "don't fill beyond 95%". Gravity feeding to the main tank's feed tube is perfectly legal for diesel, with fittings allowed below the full liquid line. Gasoline must have fittings above the full line. Gravity feeding direct to carb, rail, or injector is not allowed. Yes, the DIY tank should be built to the specs such that it can pass those DOT tests in theory, but it's not required to be actually tested, certified, or marked unless Waldo started manufacturing them commercially.
Any tool boxes ive made so far i always plan for 1 inch spacers so that you can blow out debris with either a leaf blower or an air compressor, setting things metal on metal seems to hold moisture , dirt gets stuck, and accelerates corrosion. So far it has worked really well for me.
I was thinking the same thing. I have used Body mount pucks as spacers and they work really well. Schmutz inevitably works its way under the tank, especially in rainy/snowy areas, and that always causes problems. I use plated hardware too.
I did the same thing g for about 5 years. My heating oil supplier was bought out. Then out of the blue they wouldn't fill my tank. It was a older system and it didn't have a alarm on the vent. I bought a 50 gallon transfer tank and a pump. The irony of it is I would have to drive about 15 miles to a gas station that was owned by my heating oil supplier. I could by fuel oil at the pump. I am currently changing out my 30 year old tank and installing new fill and vent lines. That tank came out great. Better than bought for sure.
Hey Waldo! Welding some really big I beams at work a technique we use to avoid warping is back stepping. Where you weld say right to left in increments but you progress from left to right over the length of the piece. It also makes ties in a bit cleaner since you can weld into the crater. Hope that makes sense
Waldo , puppies and kids are impossible to compete with! Was barely
Able to listen to your excellent reasoning. Really respect how you just
Get it DONE ! You are great at it . Your videos are Awesome ! Thank you
Hey Waldo I really like your videos I showed my welding and manufacturing teacher and now he can’t get enough on how much I’ve learned from watching your videos and he’s learned stuff too so thank you so much
Love your videos and your fabrication skills. I feel like after watching these I could go out and do it myself. Also, the "Here's some puppies while I'm explaining things" should be industry standard.
This is great timing I’ve been actually looking to buy one, I have some welding skills so I’m going to actually try this thanks man!!
That's awesome, glad to hear it! 👍
double wall or rust proof the interior if you are making one. Fuel will contain a little bit of water and that can lead to internal rust. Also a drain valve at the bottom
@@ddjohnson9717 exactly my thoughts, and I'd put a fuel pump with some sort of meter to avoid any possible mess or to keep track of how much fuel is left in the tank
That was the fastest 15 minutes I've experienced in a while. It's like trying to pace yourself eating Salisbury steak and cutting the pieces smaller and smaller trying to make it last longer. Thanks from Greenland NH.
You're too kind!
Great video, another thing you can do to try to save money and pay off the tank is buy during the yearly lows, before memorial day, holidays, etc, and use your fuel you bought at the lower price rather than buying whenever your main tank is empty, I filled up over 300 gallons in multiple transfer tanks when diesel was around $1.50 here during covid and cashed it all out when it was above $4.50 again so about $900 in savings by just playing the market.
Thanks for a great video Waldo! Still waiting for part 3 of the gooseneck build, hope it comes out soon!
Nice build Waldo, I also enjoyed watching you build your gooseneck trailer too, I built one we still use for hay mostly close to 50 years ago, thank you! I did the same thing with diamond plate aluminum about 95 gallons, the filler bung screw-on cap you have, you can get the same one with a black hinged flip-over-the-cap piece that you can put a padlock on to prevent someone from easily siphoning fuel out when you park and go into a restaurant or motel, it only takes a few minutes if they're watching you, and with fuel prices like they are... They're only about $5.00 more than the one without the locking arm at any farm supply store.
I didn't see you pressure test it; I'm guessing you did that off camera. I made mine to pump fuel from the big tank into the truck tank on the 3500 dually. I filled up both tanks in Missouri, drove down to Fairhope, AL where we're building another house & horse farm, drove around town for a week and back to MO never stopping for fuel, where when I got home, I pumped in a full truck tank (34 gal) and had about an inch or so left in the big tank. I tuned my 6.6 Duramax, so I get about 26-28 mpg empty on the highway, less when colder out. The fuel pump filler switch I located on the dash, the pump's located between the tank and the filler tube under the truck, goes right in about a foot below the truck's diesel cap fill tube, with room for my FASS lift pump discharge back to the tank.
thanks for adding the metic conversions!
I'm glad it's helpful!
A 90 out of the pump with that pipe at on the 90 then another 90 would allow for the filter to be installed vertically to make replacement easy and minimize the mess!
Great video. I thought about it last night and I think if I did the same, I'd build it upside down, and paint the inside with that por 15, or similar waterproofer for fuel tanks, then weld the bottom on, and do another coat, slosh style, to cover that area. That way you can ensure you got all the areas that will be least exposed to fuel, and any areas on the bottom that might have been missed would be covered by fuel anyway. Great job tho, just thinking out loud. Seems like a no brainer to make these if you have the welding gear.
Add a cam lock disconnect and put the hose in one of your lock boxes. Tap in an anti siphon and then the only thing you need is a lock. Might want to research mitigation of galvanic corrosion.
I'm once again very impressed with your range of skills. You're in league with Camarata in many ways and surpassing in others. Glad I found your channel!
Thank you so much!
@@WaldosWorld You really do have skills!! Awesome skills for not being a formally trained mechanical engineer...and I am a formally trained mechanical engineer working in the auto industry as IT!! LOL Keep up the great videos, I really enjoy them and I am learning new stuff which is always great.
since you used rubber washers to mount the tank i really hope you added a grounding strap, i know its diesel, but its still a good idea
This transfer tank looks better than most you’ll find on the market!
I used to build fuel tanks for a major fertilizer tenders. Couple tips.. do longer welds (starts and stops is where it will leak) if you do stop feather the stop with a grinder. Smaller tacks on your corner joints is key (so you dont have to feather your tacks) . Keep the wire in the middle of the corner joint.
When you check for leaks if you do have a leak, use a grinder with a cut off wheel and grind the corner joint out. Turn your welder down a bit and burn it in. This will get the leak fixed the 1st time.
With enough practice you will have fewer and fewer leaks. Good luck!
Another great video Waldo . I like the fact that you don't verbalize a general love for perfection . So , it would seem that perfection is not your focus . However , based on results , you always seem to find your way to perfection . And I would also like to point out that your videos are never boring and are always too short . I would love to see you make longer videos as they are really enjoyable . As always , i wait here patiently awaiting your next installment . Thanks .
You can tell he is a planner and understands the math as well.
With that aluminum paint the trick is to use a foam roller and backroll several times as it dries and it will come out flawless. Keep up the awesome videos😁
Waldo great job on the tank! I thoroughly enjoyed this episode. My only suggestion is a lock on the handle for traveling. What an awesome addition this is to your collection.
I feel you on Pennsylvania fuel prices. We bought a place in Kentucky and Pa is the most expensive gas on the trip to the point I try to avoid the state as much as possible. Maryland is only slightly cheaper than Pa, but you save where you can. Just an FYI for your travels.
Thanks Pete! Yeah, I don't want to pay all those PA fuel taxes if I don't have to 😂
I built a couple of tanks like that only with a box on top for pry bars and any tools that wouldn’t fit in the tool box. I had the metal co. Bend the pieces so there were only two pieces for the tank plus the baffles. I made it from 10 gauge because I had too much warping with 14 gauge.
Love watching your projects. You’re definitely one of my favorite UA-camrs!
Built a bunch of fuel tanks for field trucks to increase their capacity and range, great build, only thing we did different was to bend two cee shaped pieces so we could cut down on the number of welds. This was a large welding shop with a 6 foot break for bending sheet.
You should always use respiratory protection when working whit epoxys, just looking out for your healt, good video like your content.
I left some features. I use 3/4 copper plumbing pipes to the pump connected to Harbor Freight Air Compressor Hose Reel, I use fuel delivery Hose and same type Nozzle for filling. I 1 each for Diesel and gas. My Cap. On each tank is bigger than yours and take less room. Looks nice. No hose dangling all over.
Turned out nice with the exception of one small detail that i am even hesitant to say because i really like your channel and do not want to even begin to be "THAT GUY" in the youtube comment section...OK, let me say that you do very very neat and clean work that always turns out awesome, but i was surprised with the quality of the final coat of paint on the tank. I loved the epoxy and the amount of prep time you spent to get it to adhere correctly. Maybe it just looked worse on camera than it does in person but it just seemed like it was full of runs and not as uniformed as i was expecting. It could be just the way that super thin aluminum paint was laying from the roller. I was expecting to see you spray it to get a super nice finish. Sorry if this is considered rude or anything, its not meant that way, its just a goofy thing that hit me as so opposite from what you usually do.
No worries! It actually probably looked better on camera than in person. It was too cold out and I guess I applied the paint too thick. It didn't run while I was painting, but when I came out to check it the next day, the runs had developed 🤷♂️
@@WaldosWorld It still looks great on the truck.
Thank you so much for adding the freedom unit to metric conversion annotations - made it easy to follow the reasoning and did not need to switch to the fluffy puppies, which also was a nice thought btw.
The price you guys are paying for heating oil is crazy! 😲 In the UK, we’re paying about 90 pence per litre, which works out about $3.86 per US gallon, and I though that was expensive 😕
Yeah, we have President Potato to thank for that.
@@howardgrant4254 Let's make Diesel $1.29 again
@@mrmotofy Won't happen while Uncle Naughty Touch occupies the Whitehouse.
I gave you a thumbs up Waldo for the absolute BOSS haircut and for the best State motto in the USA! -Live Free Or Die.
Waldo!!!! I've missed you, Thank you for the Vid...And whoever dislikes this video, are you mad...My man out here spreading knowledge you can take with you for life........for free! Love it
Thank you! 🤠
The dislikes are after-market fuel transfer tank companies. Lol
Or people with no fab skills, or any skills for that matter
might want a water separator too and a hose swivel down by the nozzle with a short whip hose. hope this helps
That Welding table looks pretty cool.... with a few slight mods, you could turn that into a goose neck trailer! Wouldn't that be cool! 🤣😉
It actually does work surprisingly well as a welding table 😂
Needs about two hundred 3/4" inch holes🤣🤣🤣
If you use a finer nap roller the paint will come out smoother. You could have put both bungs on the same side so you don't have to go around. You could put 2 on each side for future uses. (future project). If you put a shorter nipple between filter housing and pump so there is less pressure on pump housing. Also hose won't sticking into cargo area as much. You could put an elbow coming out of filter housing. I put swivel fittings on my dispenser nozzles. Not expensive and a lot easier to position. Nice work!
Thank you for converting all the values to metric!
for feeling the truck you have the option to add a solenoid valve (fuel/oil rated) and a small line going into the fuel tank of the truck to slowly add fuel to the trucks tank while driving via a switch in the truck. I have seen someone do this exact setup and they used 3/8 line and would start it adding fuel around 1/4 tank and stop at 3/4 ( stopping it so it could never overflow...) which worked surprisingly well.
My husband ( a retired trucker) said you have missed your calling. Dont waste your fabrication skills out driving hot shot. You could make far more and be home fabricating these trucks, trailers and fuel tanks and selling them. In our little town alone there are hot shot loads. You have the shop, the tools and the skill. You really should think about it. If we had the money, were younger we would be buying one from you.
Great Project as always! My one suggestion is whether the tank is lockable? So as to prevent others from stealing the fuel.
Curious as to why you did not paint the inside of the tank, or at a bare minimum, the top half (where oxygen from the air, gets in)? That occured to me as I watched you assemble the tank. It's a very nice construction, I've seen "professional" tanks that were not nearly as well made. As for your house inlet, is it possible to put on a short vertical pipe extension? It looked like a normal iron pipe 90 bend to me. Nice job, as per your usual!
Seems like we’re thinking along the same lines. I just picked up a 74 gallon aluminum L tank with a tool box and manual pump for $500. Really glad I found it. The same setup new would be about $1700. I might never use an EPA can again.
I guess I’m cheap. When it comes to projects I’m more of a rustolium kind of guy. Any color as long as it’s black.
A connection kit to your truck's feed tube is only $50 amz or ebay. Add $50 more for decent hoses, connectors, clamps, 12v solenoid valve, and a switch. Cool project.
Also a nice fine if caught
@@FishFind3000 I think dot requires a flip over valve which is included in the kit. The tank at this moment has no flip over valve on its air vent, so isn't it illegal now?
ok i checked the dot regs. gravity or siphon feeding diesel from aux tank to main tank is perfectly legal. your fittings may also be placed near the bottom of the tank. only non-diesel liquid fuel tanks require fittings above the full liquid level. actual bottom-of-the-tank drain plugs/fittings may not exceed 3/4 inch below the liquid bottom level. roll-over check-valve vents ARE required. highly visible tanks, such as waldos, require two markings: liquid capacity in gallons and a disclaimer to not fill above 95% of tank capacity. Tank manufacturers are required to add some more markings, but i don't think that applies to DIY. Fuel lines need to be as big or larger than the existing ones, and lines can't be run more than two inches below the lowest fuel tank sump unless armored. lines must be protected from chafing and must have reasonable slack for thermal expansion and vibration. so my original comment was 100% legal and correct.
I dont think the baffles will do much in that orientation. sloshing mostly occurs when braking and accelerating. Also note that the tank can rust from the inside. great work though
I don't believe I saw it in the video but did you pressure test the tank just wondering
I like it!!
I just did the same thing and built a 90 gallon L tank that sits bed rail flush and used up more of the width. Was fun seeing your project here!
Well where you been buddy, been missing your videos........
i would recommend doing full height baffles and just nipping the top corners of the baffles off it controls the fuel slosh just as well but adds support to the top for the pump can cause the top to flex until failure. I would also recommend adding a service panel to the top of the tank in case you need to get into it in the future for lets say a broken or damaged fuel pickup tube also you should look into getting a waterblock fuel filter instead of just a fuel filter as they will show how much water is in them and you can drain out the water in the filter
The cost is only gonna get worse from here.
For what
We started snowbirding, got us down heating oil costs to about 600€ per year (we have forest right behind our home and get wood for the heating fireplace going with the central oil heating almost for free. We usualy stack oil for four to five winters and buy according to long term charts. Global warming is going to make it about six actually.)(Fuel costs for 2x 2000km are about +/- € 600 - €15/100km)
Snowbirding is best for the environment (millions of retieres should do every winter) - If I use a Toyota Prius or go fully electric.
The today 50 to 55 years of age in the EU for instance could negotiate (1) with Morocco a particular 'EU qualified snowbird certificate' for instance, guaranteeing an EU minimum standard for accommodations, gas stations, etc. for EU-snowbird certificate holders 55plus. Eventually easier pass through both customs, a € 20 tax deduction for each of the two necessary short ferry trips to and from north africa - together with an from three to four month extend snowbird tourist visa, valid, if used so, december until end of march for instance. (1 - for their own future soon to come as well) As Obama once said, 'spreading democracy and rule of law best go hand in hand with doing good to the people as well'.
@@grantkauffman8578 daily life under bidenomics
Maybe it may go down considerably after November 👍🏽
@@justincase6645if no hokey pokey like 11-4-20 in the early morning ....
Only suggestion I have is to put 3/4” cam lock disconnects on the hose where it connects to the exit of the filter. That way you can remove the hose and handle to prevent people from eating to mess with it or the hose getting in the way. They do sell a cam lock plug you can put on the pump side to keep dirt, debris, salt, weather out of the pipe.
Well done!
Looking forward to more videos
You're a better welder than painter 😁😁
I too love diesels. My first car was an 81 VW Rabbit diesel, with 52 angry horsepower.
Why not go to a big truck junkyard and get an aluminum fuel tank--They have from 75 gal to 150 gal ,ready to mount!
I didn't think of it, but it's a good idea! 👍
My dad built on for his truck many years ago. He put a pump to fill the OEM tanks in truck. 86 Ford 250 diesel. Worked like a charm. Illinois to California on one tank
The fuel tank look very good u did a great job on it keep making awesome videos on your channel the goose neck trailer looks very goof too keep up the great work
Thank you!
@@WaldosWorld u are so welcome keep up the amazing work
We built a lot of tanks in a fab shop but they always were air tested for leaks before painting. Didn’t matter if they were one gallon or 15,000 gallons, they all were tested.
Should’ve made it out of aluminum
Not with all this salt it’d only last maybe 2 years
@@kristianjohnson1226aluminum does not rust
Hello from Las Vegas Nevada
I'm back, I love the music, and the video is perfect, thank you
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
GOD BLESS THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
woop woop finally
im first too noice
Hey Waldo a small trick for you’re slip tank once come off the filter fittings use a high flo quick coupler like a hydraulic coupler female end then use a male on the hose so for to
Store your hose so uv rays don’t eat your hose and also harder to steel fuel and if possible use a clear filter with the little drain spit too see if your getting water or anything in your tank
Wow you got some faith in your welds. Or did I miss where you pressure tested for leaks? A thought too; might want some means/manner of covering the pump hand/switch with a lockable cover so folks don't avail themselves of your diesel. Was also thinking a nice means of wrapping that hose up too. I will say your videos are so dang good. They started good, just keep getting better. Say hi to your pup for us!
Yep, I just have faith in my welds. I let the fuel sit overnight and didn't see any leaking 😂
Well for the first 3 minutes I heard nothing, but after that I enjoyed your build.
Yes, I would look into coating the inside. Rust is my enemy!
I appreciate all your builds/videos and look forward to each.
Where is the Waldo Welds Merch? A coffee cup would be a great gift to myself this Christmas.
finally a new video lol
No one:
Waldo to aluminium paint: ooh look at that it's pretty😂.
I need a guy like this in my life, not just because he's super talented.
Can you get off road diesel delivered to your house and not have to pay road tax on your diesel?
Yeah, I've thought about buying another heating oil tank and getting that delivered 🤔
When I was a teenager, my dad had a friend with a diesel Rabbit and a VERY long daily commute. Heating oil was very cheap in those days - much cheaper than diesel fuel, which was (or course) a lot cheaper than it is now. The guy got a 2K gallon tank installed for heating oil, and filled it once a year. It easily fueled his car and heated his house, and saved him enough money to eventually pay for the tank. (Although he was stuck driving a Rabbit for a long time...)
Of course not legally
If you get off-road diesel for your big equipment, is there any issue then putting normal in afterwards (that is, does the dye stick around problematically)? Let us know how it goes if you swap back and forth!
I'm sure the dye would get diluted with on-road fuel, but I wonder for how long it would be detectable... 🤔
It'll definitely be detectable for a while. It's designed to stick around for a while.
@@WaldosWorld Here in Denmark we also use dye in off-road fuel, meant for farmers and in marine equipment, and the dye will be visible for years in the tank and the fuel system, so if used in a on-road vehicle the police would be able to see it for years after.
@@WaldosWorld if it were me, I wouldn't switch back and forth. Through the rumor mill, dye found in an on road fuel system makes for quite unhappy law enforcement representatives. Your mileage may vary, but if you are thinking of using this for road trips and pull over someplace visible while transferring fuel, someone might want to check what you have in any tanks.
Both red and clear get delivered from the same tank on the delivery truck. Run it empty on red, then do a few fills of just a few gallons of clear and rinse it out. By the time you fill it up you won't see the red. I've carried both clear and red in the same transfer tank on a truck before
Something I learned is the amount of condensation that gets in the tank via the air and causes surface rust. This was in a motorcycle tank which is easy and cheap to keep topped up. Keeping it full and excluding air prevents this somewhat. Living near the sea in a humid climate has its down sides I guess. Best of luck.
Great practical project. Many UA-cam content providers are doing stuff that doesn’t make sense.😊
Quick comment about the filler cap. Don’t push down and tighten if you close it all the way there will be no venting and it will spray when you try To open it. It will also make fueling a slow process because of improper airflow
I am tempted to build my own transfer tank now. I recently upgraded the diesel tank on my truck to a bigger capacity tank and the old tank is a 35 gallon transfer tank with built in pump for the time being. Cheaper alternative for the time being.
Aluminum paint looked better than I was expecting. Great job looks nice
Nice tank.
One added benefit of the aluminium paint is that it reflects sunlight so it wont heat up as fast in direct sunlight.
What an amazing channel I’ve been watching since about 10,000s of drivers that loved the quality and effort in these videos since day one good job.
I like the way you weld to your tacks and not through them. That I beam also made a good heat sink.
I realise that this is a one year old video, but it's so much more interesting than listening to other YT'bers shouting at the top of their lungs about how they will get SOMEONE ELSE to wrap their car etc and how good it looks.
I've spent my whole life - like a good few of us - making my own stuff simply because I don't have the means to buy stuff new AND more importantly I get exatly what I want.
Keep up the good work Waldo.
Cheers and Kudo's for having moved out of California. New Hampshire is so much nicer, peoplewise too.
Another cost savings, if you can find offroad (dyed) diesel. Since your main use is for the furnace and construction equipment, you don't need to pay the road taxes. Just make sure there's none left when you go on the long road trips and fueling your truck form the tank.
Awesome build on the tank!
the baffles should ha went to the top and slots cut to weld them stops tank top swelling and top from rattling makes it stronger and the list gos on i learned this the hard way also. thanks for sharing
You probably already know this, but you can buy offroad diesel for less money than regular diesel. The only difference is that they add a dye to make sure that you don't use it in your vehicle and avoid paying road taxes. Since you're using it for heating oil it isn't an issue for you. That fuel tank turned out great!
Thank you - your videos and projects are a pleasure to watch - keep them coming!
Use off-road diesel, it’s dyed red. You don’t play road tax on it so it will be cheaper for heating your house and running equipment.
What I did, I made my own truck bed it’s Ford 450. My tank is part of truck bed. It’s 6 inches tall divided into 2 parts 50% Diesel other 50% gas. It’s same 14 gage outside is power coated. Top is 14 gage steel 1/4 inch diamond plate on top of 14 gage steel Transfer pumps under 12 inch tool box full width of flat bed, head is 6 inches taller then roof with lights for night time use. I use LED Lights. 5th wheel connections in the center on 3/4 inch steel plate. Nobody knows I have transfer tanks built in works great and huge capacity. O ya most important there are round sump 8 inches deep on both tanks from where fuel is pump. Hope you consider it on your next build.
In Sweden the oil price used for heating house is now around $7,75 /gallon, but almost no one use that to heat houses anymore due to the absurd prices
I am putting a 15-20 gallon transfer tank on my side x side trailer. Inside a diamond plate side box. Just going to modify an aluminum fuel cell. They are under 200$ another option would have been bigger boat fuel cells if you have a boat junker near you they can be had fairly cheap if you want to crawl in there and pull one.
Ok ngl I was about to write a paragraph about how to properly secure a single sheet of metal on your flatbed but then I realized:
1. If it's short distances, then it's fine.
2. If it's lightweight then no worries.
3. It appears to be secured well enough so I shouldn't worry my head about it.
Forgive me, I am a former flatbed driver and whenever I see other drivers rolling in throwing maybe 14 or 12 straps on a particular load that will be a definite 39 ton load I will go out of my way to not only help said drivers secure their load properly but also teach them how to do proper load securement for future reference.
And I swear to god, if anyone complains, "Why are you throwing 20 or more straps on a load like this? it's only steel ingots and iron pipes you shouldn't have to worry about a measely 79k load", I do not care, I'd rather be safe than sorry and if anyone has a problem with that, tell it to the widows of the truckers who didn't take safety seriously.
Ahem, forgive me. Rant aside I love your videos waldo.
Thank you, and I'm definitely open to tips from people with more experience than me! 👍
Thank you for converting gallons to liters
Hello there! If I may ask, would you be doing an update on your Range Rover? You have not posted an update video in quite a while and to be honest I would love to see an update video on how the Range Rover is running now. You have a pretty amazing channel. Thanks and hello from Great Britain!.
Thank you! Yep, I'm filming it right now 👍
@@WaldosWorld Sounds excellent! Can't wait to see the video when it comes out!
the fuel filter is an amazing idea 🦾
You sir are spot on about PA fuel retail.
I was thinking back about the flatbed build for this truck, wouldn't it be better to have some kind of insert covering the fuel filler port in the bed itself, that way what's under it will stay protected from the rain better, and it will look better.