How to Fly Fish for Carp - Drag and Drop
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- Опубліковано 17 кві 2023
- The drag and drop technique is the most important technique to learn when fly fishing for carp.
Carp on the Fly Channel is dedicated to bring the best visual content of Carp Fly Fishing. The channel will occasionally have other content, the primary focus will be Carp Fly Fishing.
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What are the goals of Carp on the Fly Productions?
The first and most important is educate about Carp. How Carp live, feed, and interact with the environment.
The second is to inspire people to want to fly fish for Carp.
The third is to educate and review the equipment that can be used for Carp.
And finally, to get people to respect these amazing fish.
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This is one of the most informative videos about carp fishing I have ever seen.
Thanks, the classes were a good opportunity to capture some of the details. I’m glad I was invited to do it and was able to create some good instruction from it.
TOTALLY AGREE !
Outstanding video! I've learned so much from your content; thank you, brother! 🙂✌️🎣
Thanks, I am glad it is helpful. I love talking carp and love fishing so I am happy to do it.
Dude you put a clinic on those fish! Literally! Good stuff. I can't wait to do some drag and drop myself. Here in my part of Colorado we had the coldest winter we've had in about 40 years. Carp are finally getting active. Saw a few tailing today when I was fly fishing for crappie and walleye at my local lake. I'm like you though I would rather catch the carp!
Thanks. Utah has been the same. We just barely finally started being able to chase carp. Most of our best water is still iced over, but there are a few spots in the valley and around the great salt lake that are really picking up the last 2 weeks. I love fishing for carp. I still love going after the other species too, but carp is just the best fresh water target.
I’ve really enjoyed your drone footage and this tutorial! Thanks for the advice!!
Thanks, it’s a lot of fun capturing the footage and I am happy to share.
AWESOME series of videos thank you. Never even considered fishing for these guys until is saw a pod of them in my local river. Absolute monsters i'm seeing and i can't get a take! can't wait to try these tactics
Good luck, they are super addicting and quite a challenge. But once you start connecting it’s so so awesome.
@@carponthefly8282 thanks!
Shoot...I go out to fish trout and catch 15 in 8 hours and I think i've had a great day =)
I don’t always catch 40-50, but on a good weather and light day, air can hit that. But I don’t worry about numbers too much. I just wanted to point out how effective drag and drop is. It’s a killer technique.
I know I ask a lot of questions, I'd love to have been there live for this =) Another question related to youtube, as I'm certain if you were within my janra (IE outdoor survival and bushcraft) you'd have half a million subs with the quality and quantity of content you put out. I'm envious of your focus and skill...THAT SAID (haha) do your shorts get a lot of views? and does their watch time count towards your overall channel watch time?
Some do and some don’t. They do not count towards your total time. I think the most viewed on UA-cam is around 50k. I have a few on another platform in the 1-2 million range. I mostly only do the shorts over there. I just don’t think most people watching on UA-cam are looking at shorts very often. I think it can help you get subscribers though. So from that stand point they can be good.
would a brass beaded fly or brass cone head work? or is that too heavy? Here is my thought. I've tied up a bunch of black/brown/olive Kaufmann Stimulators on a heavy hook so they sink. I dont want them to float, just slowly go down. However they dont sink fast enough. I'd say they are dropping maybe 1 inch per second. I think I want around 2-3. Maybe if I added a few lead wraps. Do you think this would work? what if I put a marabou tail on that same fly?
They will work. Bead head and cone heads are fine from a weight standpoint, but probably not for shallow water. They also ride hook point down, which means when they get on the bottom the hook point is likely to grab something. Bead chain and dumbbell eyes help flip the fly over. When they sit on the bottom they will ride hook point up. And when you move them along the bottom they are less likely to snag anything. From a weight standpoint, slow sinking can be really good. It’s all about timing the sink rate so it is in front of the carp when they pass, or if they are stationary tailing, a lighter weight fly will slowly sink in front of the fish, giving the fish more time to notice it. Which is also a be fit in some situations. Good questions.
another question. can you toss a far heavier fly several feet, like 15-20 feet in front of the direction they are swimming, maybe with a sink tip line, and just let it sit on the bottom until the carp gets close enough and jig it back into their feeding zone?
Yes, and that is kind of like a technique I will be covering in the next week or so. I don’t recommend sink tip, I still think floating is better, but you can do it many ways. It really comes down to getting a fly in front of the carp without spooking. It doesn’t matter how you do that, I’m just showing the techniques a I know work. I still experiment all the time.
Did I get it right: 18 ft leader?!
I usually run anywhere from 12-18 feet, for the reasons mentioned in the video. I will be releasing the video on leader once I get it all edited. But yeah, 18 feet.
@@carponthefly8282 Thx!🙂
Only fish for Carp 100%
I still enjoy chasing other species, but carp are my number 1 freshwater fish.
9' tapered leader, size 10 beadhead nymph and I slay these hogs. Don't use dumbbell eyes. 18' leader is challenging to manage and landing that carp with 18' outside the guides would not be fun.
I recommend glass rod. Accurate, smooth, less arm waving to load the rod. I find carp are more spooked by me than a fly splashing three feet from them.
You can absolutely use shorter leader and smaller flies. But you limit which fish you can take shots at by going shorter. With 9’ you are dabbing or only taking shots inside 30’. If you are targeting cruisers at longer distance, the longer leader is better. As far as not letting your leader inside your guides, that hasn’t been a thing for years. It was a myth thatI still hear about and chuckle. If you have a decent nail knot or loop to loop connection there is no reason not to real your leader into your guides. Dumbell eyes are better, even on regular nymphs when fishing carp. It’s the same reason we use dumbell eyes for bonefish, redfish, and basically all species of flats fish. It flips the fly over. You get a better hookup because the fly is point up, while the fish is tipped down on the fly. It also makes the fly easier to move along the bottom if needed to pull it in position or elicit a strike. You can use bead beads, but I don’t know why you would, unless you are buying trout flies to use for carp. Bead chain is better, and less expensive. As far as a glass rod, love them, hell of a lot of fun to fish.
@@carponthefly8282 if it's a myth, it's a reality despite a well-tied nail knot or loop connection. It's doable but much easier to manage one's line with the fly line outside the guides. I guess let anglers experiment and decide.
I don't find carp all that fly or line shy, so why create potentially more aggravation? If they were, we would avoid using flies with weight because they make a bigger splash.
I find carp are generally curious. They'll move to the fly often where it hits the water or as it's stripped or drag & dropped towards the carp. Whether they take it depends on a lot of variables, mostly are they feeding.
I can cast accurately at longer than 30'. An extra 3' to 6' on my leader doesn't make a difference to reach them. Truthfully, I'd instead get as close as I can get away with without spooking them. That's the challenge because they are angler shy. But closer means better line management, a clearer visual field, and more control from the start with a hook-up. As I said, I like a glass rod that isn't going to cast as far as my fast-action graphite, but I can get closer because I don't need to make as quick of an arm movement to load the rod.
I'll try some nymphs, etc, with dumbbell eyes. I've done well with bead heads in my waters, but I'm all for anything that might increase my hook-up and landing rate.
Either way, you and I catch carp, and it's super fun! There's no right or wrong way, only what works at the time!
Hello. Do you use any floatant for leader to swim on surface? And are any diferents betwen leader materials? Are better fast action rods and shorter rods for midle to short range distance? P. S. Good info videos
I don’t use floatant on the leaders. We really want the leaders to sink for carp. I may treat them occasionally for dry fly, but only if I am actively targeting them dry fly.
As far as rod action goes, I think a medium or medium-fast is better for shorter quick shots. Fast action rods needed to be loaded and that takes having some line out and getting into the cast. I think fiberglass rods are a great option for carp because of this. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.