capricornmagic63 I'm a beginner too (I'm joining a club in a couple of months). I found this channel by accident & I'm really glad that I did because I'm learning a lot of valuable information which will come in handy. I love that he is also passionate & goes into detail when explaining things.
Couple tips on diy arrow cutting: Aluminum shafts: Easy! Use a pipe cutter. They're around 10-15 bucks at hardware store. Carbon shafts: Slightly trickier. You can also use a pipe cutter for these in a pinch but it's really not ideal. Better way is to take a Dremel and build a jig out of plywood to square the arrow with the cutting disc. There are tutorials for this online. It's just a matter of a 90 degree joint to hold your arrow and a second piece to hold the Dremel secure and square to the arrow holding piece.
When I got into archery about 7 years ago, I didn’t have any teacher and the local shops just had compounds. I found my draw length 24” and they made me 25” youth arrows for a youth Samick recurve. So without knowing all that I know now, when I got a new recurve I ordered GT traditional 600 and had them cut 26” with 125 points. Yeah, far too stiff for my new bow, it pulls 30# at my draw. So I use GT lightning youth arrows lol because they work for 25-35#s. Eventually, I’ll tune or tweak to get the correct spine/length for when I do 3D.
I imagine it makes sense for a beginner who might struggle with the draw weight at the start to have longer arrows, since with not much time they will be able to pull the string farther back and if that happens they risk injury with a shorter arrow that was catered to their weaker former draw length.
I like my arrows 2-2,5 inch longer than my actual draw length. So I can cut down the tip and insert in case the front part of the shaft cracks, put a new one on and reuse the arrow. Saved me quite some money already and it seems easier to aim if the shaft sticks out a bit in front of the bow.
Hi Nusensei! I’ve trained in Kyudo for a little over two years and the draw and arrow lengths are both much longer than what I’ve seen in most western forms of archery. Right now I’m looking at horse archery as a sort of bridge between kyudo and what’s traditionally taught in the west since yumi’s are expensive and rare where I live. Would the long draw length of kyudo translate well with a horse bow? And would I have to find a long arrow to compensate?
Thanks for the response, appreciate it! Is there a preferred ratio for total weight vs FOC, or would you know a reliable data source or tables that can help me zero in without a bunch of trial and error? Thanks, and thanks again for sharing all your insights on the you tube, you're a great ambassador for the sport.
You can probably find charts and recommendations on forums. However, the problem with this material is that they usually only give you a starting point. Archery is so personalised that it's impossible to prescribe what you should have. You can get rough figures to get your bow and arrows to tune, but fundamentally it's going to be trial and error (and often some $$$ to waste).
I've got a 31inch draw and have been using 31inch arrows, I have an arrow rest though and it gives more wiggle room, compared to the rest the bow gives, so safety isn't an issue. My mate also has a 31 inch draw and is doing complete bare bow, I'm gonna have to let him know this. We are new and just brought what we could with the funds we had, didn't even think about the dangers of having an arrow length not fitting our draw length. The man is about about to become a physiotherapist, surely wouldn't look good if he's own hands don't work lol.
My draw is 26" and I have all my field and practice arrows cut to 29" so that I change nothing about my draw weither I'm going to shoot field points or broadheads. Consistency.
I am going to do bareshaft tuning. I do not know one thing. What should be initial button stiffness setting when I am trying out the arrow after each cutoff? Probably something in the middle, not to stiff and not too loose to leave some margin to fine tuning, right?
Hey Nu, thanks for the quality of your pieces, really enjoy your channel! I was curious why no switching tip weights? Seems easier than changing shaft lengths? I'm just getting into tuning, wondering if there are pros and cons? Thanks!
Changing point weight is one way to change dynamic spine to get the right tune. A restricting factor is how much weight you want at the front of the arrow (which affects the "Front of Centre", or FOC, in turn affecting the arrow's flight properties). For example, an arrow with a light point might not group as well as heavier points. The main thing to remember with shaft length is that if you are shooting freestyle with a clicker, shaft length has very little leeway, as you have to be within the length needed to get through the clicker (unless you use a sight-mounted clicker). A good tune will likely involve getting the shaft at the right length for comfortable use, and then changing the point weight to fine-tune it.
A bench grinder cuts carbon arrows like butter. Grind off a 1/4", roll the end square on the side of the grinding wheel, test the arrow flight, and repeat until you find the perfect length.
At 6'5 and 31"+ draw length, would my option to use an arrow rest (opposed to the shelf) offset the awkwardness of the push/pull style (around 83% of my "full" draw potential) for my 45lb ~ 28" SSage...ive had great sucess w/ various combos of arrows * ranging between 3o"-32"_6o~15o grain tips_4oo~5oo spine_FFlight~D5o, etc * I pull 54lbs at 31" on my bow and im WEARING MY STRINGS OUT at the loop tips. Maybe a shelf would make the inch or so difference im looking for?? Or any other suggestions to get max FPS without breaking my FF strings so quickly, im buying a dozen per year? Thanks for your videos i didnt see one on max draw. peace
I love these NUSensei videos When talking about arrow lengths It is suggested that your arrows should average about 1.5 inches longer than your draw length Does 1.5 inches include the Point, Shaft and Nock or just the arrow shaft?
I'm looking around for a bow to purchase, and the Samick Polaris seem like a good (or at least decent) first bow to go with. My question is, I'm quite tall, and not very strong (nowadays at least), and think a 68 inch 30 pound bow would be good. Does that set what my draw length is automatically? And what arrow length would you recommend with just this knowledge?
Justin McNabb there's a few variables that can cause this issue. Vanes on an arrow contacting shelf instead of the rest. Improper release Nocking point in the wrong area Center serving damage And last I can think of off the top of my head is form. Try having someone else with you so they can record you taking the shot and go over the video to see where it's going wrong.
Yes, a lathe is perfect except for the measurement. A devoted arrow saw, usually a diamond or carborundum cutting wheel, at the end of a long groove where the arrow sits, means an easy placed stopper with an accurate measurement that can repeat arrow length and be adjusted simply. but if you have a lathe there is a good chance you have the equipment and skill to build an arrow saw for next to nothing. Possibly even an adaptor for your angle grinder, or bench grinder would do the trick.
a cheap and easy way to cut carbon arrows is using a copper pipe cutter and it will snap off cleanly every time not the most precise way to cut them but it will do in a pinch
Great video. Unrelated question... I have started taking archery lessons and the coach is having me hold the riser in a weird way. Basically my thumb points toward the target, but only my pointer finger comes around the riser. The rest of the fingers are inside on the same side of the riser as my bow arm. Have you ever heard of this grip before? Seemed strange to me as I've never seen it mentioned. My shooting has improved over the lessons so it doesn't seem to be bad.
I'm no professional, but it sounds as if that's the typical beginner's grip. It's mainly to prevent you from gripping the bow, either to aim, or just in general. Over time you'll probably change it for something a bit more personalized and comfortable.
It's the grip I use - if you are using a sling you essentially don't grip the riser at all and just sit the riser against the fleshy part of your hand below the thumb. I can't seem to get used to using a sling, so the idea of this grip is to hold the bow as lightly as possible so as not to impart torque to the riser through an uneven, tense grip
@Robert Davis I think he was strictly speaking about target arrows. I myself use a 32" aluminum shaft with my broadheads. I don't wan't any cut fingers either lol.
So you mentioned how cutting an arrow affects spinal strength. Is there any rule as to how much of an affect it has? Also, I have a video request for you to explain the archers paradox.
Ballpark, cutting an inch from an arrow is similar to adding 4 pounds to your bow or up a spine level. This is a great site for playing with different arrows: www.heilakka.com/stumiller/
Wouldn't another advantage to shooting a shorter arrow be less arrow weight, resulting in faster arrow flight and a flatter trajectory? Also can't an arrow that is cut a little too short (but not unsafe) be effectively made to behave less stiff by increasing the tip weight?
Nu, i'm shooting olympic style (and obviously using a clicker) my draw length is near to 27,8 inches, my arrows was cut into 27,8 too. But with the points the final length is 28,5", it means i'm forcing myself to "overdraw"? (My english is not good, sorry)
my draw length is 29.5 so i use 31 inch arrows, but for some reason that 30 inch arrow looks huge in your hands, i'm only 5"9' but i have long ass arms lol
How far forward of center is the balance point. The further forward, the less effort the vanes have to work. The less the vanes have to work the more efficient the arrow flies. Imagine if the weighted tip was attached to the nock end. The vanes probably couldn't keep the arrow straight and it would probably cartwheel because the balance point was to far back.
I can kind of that see that, although I shoot barebow with 30" arrows and a 29" draw, and tip of the arrow comes close enough to the rest that one of the senior members at my club was slightly worried about it and I can aim with the arrow tip without much trouble ahah
Yep Jimmy Blackmon recommends a longer arrow for gap shooters, makes the gaps much smaller. If you try it remember you'll need a stiffer arrow/lighter point than your usual length arrows.
hi there new archer here..... i was looking for a bow then found one and it turns out your displaying the same one in the video here... so i was wondering.. im gonna be a back yard shooter and the website did not say the length of arrow i needed for this bow. what do you recommend? Adventure 2.0
specified draw lengths are more of a recommendation than a requirement since overdrawing the bow to the point of breaking is humanly impossible and nothing bad happens if you don't manage to draw it all the way to the specified draw. Really the length depends on your own draw length which is found by finding the length of your arm span from finger tip to finger tip and dividing that value by 2.5. you have to be careful when selecting you spine for your arrows though. look up the gold tip spine chart and it should give you a list of recommended values for arrow length with whatever poundage bow and grain arrow tips your specific bow should be using. it's important to match your spine to your bow since it affects the archer paradox and will determine if your arrows fly straight or will come in at an angle. too stiff and it will want to glance off your bow and fly off target too flexible and it will bend like crazy in mid flight which will reduce its aerodynamics, speed and penetration. I think it'll be easier to understand if you watch the archers paradox video from smarter every day to fully understand what I'm talking about
@@xvaldez3284 The best way I'VE found to determine draw length is to take an uncut shaft with nothing on it but a nock. Put the shaft on your bowstring, draw it to whatever you're going to use as your anchor point(I put my thumb into the corner of my jaw), and have someone mark the point where the shaft crosses the side of the bow AWAY from you(I can never remember whether this is the "back" or the "belly"). Then you can figure out how much extra shaft will suit your needs. The archery industry standard for arrow length is 28"; most mass-produced bows are tillered for draw WEIGHT at that length(remember that increasing or decreasing arrow length will either add or subtract a couple of pounds per inch, i.e. if you have a bow that draws 30 lbs at 28", and you use arrows that are only 26" long, the draw weight will DROP by about 5 - 10 lbs. Similarly, a 30" draw length will UP the weight of the bow by about the same amount). BTW, I used the formula you gave, and came out with an answer of 28.8 inches length. For ME, at least, that's wrong; MY draw length, with the anchor point I use, is 30 inches. I suspect that your formula is based on everyone using the SAME stance, anchor point, etc. Unfortunately, one size does NOT fit ALL. Instead of trying to figure the necessary length out by math, one should do it by the method I described, actual measurement, which takes into account where you intend to hold your arrows
It won't affect your shot process. I used long arrows and the AAE extended clicker and shot just fine. If you use long arrows, you can also save money by shooting the same shafts while going up in poundage by starting uncut and cutting the arrows more and more as you increase draw weight.
No. You don't change spine because of speed or trajectory. Spine is chosen so that the arrow leaves the bow in a straighter path and for the best clearance.
That not what I was saying ..I'm saying when you shorten an arrow the spine becomes stiffer so you may (like me ) need a softer spine to begin with to allow you to shorten it... does that make sense and that the shorter the arrow the lighter it is thus becomes a bit faster ...
Yeah, those are two different statements. Lighter arrows fly faster (regardless of spine). Shorter arrows are stiffer than longer arrows so you need a softer starting spine, so when you cut it it will stiffen. (and higher spine means a weaker arrow). Tuning arrows makes my head hurt.
Indians from amazon forest use some very long and heavy arrows, almost atlatl dart size, a foot longer than the draw length. Their arrows have head of stone, bone or hardwood and are thinner at the nock side side than at the point, either being made of cane or wood. Their bows rarely reach 60lbs, averaging between 30 to 50lbs. They draw using the pinch draw method or some variation of. Normally they shoot instinctive, releasing right at the end of the draw, because that way the bow shoot a bit faster, considering how heavy the arrow is. This is so because the forest is dense, and most shots are at quite close distances, probably at most 20 yards or so. The exception is when shooting birds or mammals high up in the trees or over a river, then they use lighter arrows. Their heavy arrows are able to kill large animals as alligators, jaguars, tapirs, etc.
You'll have to forgive me NuSensei - I admire your work, and I'm a self-taught novice, but I'm going to chance my arm and say that you're flat wrong about length affecting spine. If I understand spine correctly, it is a measure of arrow rigidity achieved by placing an arrow between two supports spaced at precisely 28 inches, suspending from the midpoint of the arrow a weight of exactly half a pound, and then gauging precisely the maximum extent that the arrow is deformed from perfectly straight. This means that shortening an arrow has no effect whatsoever on its spine. What it actually means is that - for any given spine - the longer is the arrow, the more there is of it to flex when shot from a bow. That ain't exactly the same thing: but it is the amount of flex (deviation from perfectly straight) along the arrow as a whole that affects the accuracy of your shot/shots. Less arrow, less deviation. Simples.
To clarify, shortening an arrow will affect its dynamic spine, not its static spine. Take a shaft of a stated spine rating, cut it down, and it will be stiffer than it was.
@@NUSensei So - in short - you are agreeing with me 👍👍, but introducing a technical term most of your audience has never heard before . . . . I'm not sure the latter is helpful 👎, but hey - keep up the great wortk 😊
@@NUSensei I've been thinking about how best to communicate this phenomenon: then I thought of my dad - who was a very fine professional orchestral violinist. You could think 'guitar' (or 'harp' or 'zither', perhaps?*) and still get the idea. To play different notes on the same string, a violinist or guitarist moves their fingers up and down the neck of the instrument**, applying pressure against the frets, effectively changing the length of the part of the string that can vibrate. The stiffness of the string is unchanged by this - but the frequency (pitch) and amplitude (loudness) of the note it plays are both changed as a result: shorter strings vibrate faster but quieter than longer ones. The same is true when you shorten an arrow of a given stiffness: it will still flex (vibrate) in flight, but reducing the length of the shaft will change the frequency and amplitude of the flexing, and this in turn iwll affect the way that it flies downrange. Tell that to your students, and when they get it (but not before!) bring them into the jargon of 'static spine' and 'dynamic spine' 😊👍 * In harps and zithers the fingers are moved between strings of different lengths - but the result is the same, for any 2 strings of the same stiffness but different length. **Want to see this in close up - watch the guy accompanying Candy Dulfer in this spine-tingling performance: ua-cam.com/video/VWY4QInOkMs/v-deo.html
Tell me M.O.R.E. . . . . . . . about L.O.N.G.E.R. length X10s verses your regular length A/C/Es {{You HAD 720 A/C/E last time I checked. I Believe your first set of A/C/E were 670 but too stiff for your setup.}} If the .670 A/C/E & .720 A/C/E were ''expected'' length / ie. just out-the-front of riser / WHY LONGER length X10 ? ? ?
I actually estimated them to be similar in length, since my X10s are 750 spine (with a lighter point), but I haven't completed a full tune yet, and my coach has been very conservative with cutting off more length than needed with an X10.
Ah, LIGHER POINT!!!! That TOTALLY justifies the L.O.N.G.E.R. length. You'll have faster velocity out-of-the-bow due to a ligher arrow. Somewhere I heard every 3grains saved is 1fps, so if you are only 10grains lighter POINT, you might be 3+fps faster. @20grains, maybe about 7fps faster. On another `point` [he he] longer shaft = simpler tune, yes?
@Rad Derry Don't get me wrong, I'm exactly with you on using the metric system. Hell, I'm an engineer from Germany and I hate imperial measurements with a burning passion. Still, western archery is from a time, when the metric system wasn't implemented. My guess is, that it's by tradition imperial and hard to change, since all the acessories are made with imperial measurements in mind. Sure, you could say, that a riser is 55cm long, but literally ALL retailers will offer 25" risers instead. It's not like we're trying to land on the moon here. Adapting metric in archery isn't as necessary as in modern technology.
@Rad Derry yeahnah, even on am island i wouldn't start with imperial measurements. Sure, I'd use my hand or arm as a rudimentary ruler, but I wouldn't start calling 13 arms a blarf and 27 blarfs a blorf. I'm not building islands new standard mudhut, I'm building a shelter that fits my body and that will not be recreated by anyone except me. The threads in risers are all imperial, so where's the metric manufacturing there?
Measure once, cut twice. Wait, no...
Measure never. Cut until it's close enough.
@@stoutlager6325 I've cut it 4 times already, and it's still too short.
thank you so much for posting your videos, you've helped me so much! best wishes from Ireland!
Thanks a lot for making all of these video's ! I want to start with archery and I very much appreciate all the information :)
Great vid! Very informative. Thanks for sharing.
You are a very good presenter of information. Thanks.
Thanks nusensei! helps alot and informative! Great video.
Super quality content here, as usual. Best accessible archery content.
Thanks for this one.
I was looking for instructions on how to shoot my own hand with an arrow, this helped tremendously, thanks!
If your a bowhunter length matters. You do not want broadheads to hit your bow at full draw.
Very good point.
I like your video's. I'm a beginner and I want to get serious about shooting. Your video's makes me want to really immerse myself into Archery
capricornmagic63 I'm a beginner too (I'm joining a club in a couple of months). I found this channel by accident & I'm really glad that I did because I'm learning a lot of valuable information which will come in handy. I love that he is also passionate & goes into detail when explaining things.
Very informative video. Thanks!
So informative! Thank you!
Couple tips on diy arrow cutting:
Aluminum shafts: Easy! Use a pipe cutter. They're around 10-15 bucks at hardware store.
Carbon shafts: Slightly trickier. You can also use a pipe cutter for these in a pinch but it's really not ideal. Better way is to take a Dremel and build a jig out of plywood to square the arrow with the cutting disc. There are tutorials for this online. It's just a matter of a 90 degree joint to hold your arrow and a second piece to hold the Dremel secure and square to the arrow holding piece.
thx, figured a Dremel would work!
Thank you, this was really helpful!
Greetings
When I got into archery about 7 years ago, I didn’t have any teacher and the local shops just had compounds. I found my draw length 24” and they made me 25” youth arrows for a youth Samick recurve. So without knowing all that I know now, when I got a new recurve I ordered GT traditional 600 and had them cut 26” with 125 points. Yeah, far too stiff for my new bow, it pulls 30# at my draw. So I use GT lightning youth arrows lol because they work for 25-35#s. Eventually, I’ll tune or tweak to get the correct spine/length for when I do 3D.
can you make video about what arrow to choose for certain draw weight? thx
Hi, you might want to have a look at this video
ua-cam.com/video/lfJ07bzDEh4/v-deo.html
(starting at 15:30)
thanks for this video!!!
I imagine it makes sense for a beginner who might struggle with the draw weight at the start to have longer arrows, since with not much time they will be able to pull the string farther back and if that happens they risk injury with a shorter arrow that was catered to their weaker former draw length.
Thanks! 🙏
I like my arrows 2-2,5 inch longer than my actual draw length. So I can cut down the tip and insert in case the front part of the shaft cracks, put a new one on and reuse the arrow. Saved me quite some money already and it seems easier to aim if the shaft sticks out a bit in front of the bow.
Hi Nusensei! I’ve trained in Kyudo for a little over two years and the draw and arrow lengths are both much longer than what I’ve seen in most western forms of archery. Right now I’m looking at horse archery as a sort of bridge between kyudo and what’s traditionally taught in the west since yumi’s are expensive and rare where I live. Would the long draw length of kyudo translate well with a horse bow? And would I have to find a long arrow to compensate?
Thanks for the response, appreciate it! Is there a preferred ratio for total weight vs FOC, or would you know a reliable data source or tables that can help me zero in without a bunch of trial and error? Thanks, and thanks again for sharing all your insights on the you tube, you're a great ambassador for the sport.
You can probably find charts and recommendations on forums. However, the problem with this material is that they usually only give you a starting point. Archery is so personalised that it's impossible to prescribe what you should have. You can get rough figures to get your bow and arrows to tune, but fundamentally it's going to be trial and error (and often some $$$ to waste).
Nobody mention this in safety videos but is really important....
I've got a 31inch draw and have been using 31inch arrows, I have an arrow rest though and it gives more wiggle room, compared to the rest the bow gives, so safety isn't an issue. My mate also has a 31 inch draw and is doing complete bare bow, I'm gonna have to let him know this. We are new and just brought what we could with the funds we had, didn't even think about the dangers of having an arrow length not fitting our draw length. The man is about about to become a physiotherapist, surely wouldn't look good if he's own hands don't work lol.
My draw is 26" and I have all my field and practice arrows cut to 29" so that I change nothing about my draw weither I'm going to shoot field points or broadheads. Consistency.
I am going to do bareshaft tuning. I do not know one thing. What should be initial button stiffness setting when I am trying out the arrow after each cutoff? Probably something in the middle, not to stiff and not too loose to leave some margin to fine tuning, right?
Is there a relationship between draw length and arrow length? I ask because when you order arrows they come in different spine weights and lengths.
Hey Nu, thanks for the quality of your pieces, really enjoy your channel! I was curious why no switching tip weights? Seems easier than changing shaft lengths? I'm just getting into tuning, wondering if there are pros and cons? Thanks!
Changing point weight is one way to change dynamic spine to get the right tune. A restricting factor is how much weight you want at the front of the arrow (which affects the "Front of Centre", or FOC, in turn affecting the arrow's flight properties). For example, an arrow with a light point might not group as well as heavier points.
The main thing to remember with shaft length is that if you are shooting freestyle with a clicker, shaft length has very little leeway, as you have to be within the length needed to get through the clicker (unless you use a sight-mounted clicker). A good tune will likely involve getting the shaft at the right length for comfortable use, and then changing the point weight to fine-tune it.
I tend to prefer 26 inch arrows to my 28 ones. I am short so I have 24 inch draw
A bench grinder cuts carbon arrows like butter. Grind off a 1/4", roll the end square on the side of the grinding wheel, test the arrow flight, and repeat until you find the perfect length.
Sensi
Kindly I need your advice for the suitable arrow for krossan exenia 68" 26lb
What stiffness should an arrow have to shoot from a 30 lbs horsebow?
Thanks
At 6'5 and 31"+ draw length, would my option to use an arrow rest (opposed to the shelf) offset the awkwardness of the push/pull style (around 83% of my "full" draw potential) for my 45lb ~ 28" SSage...ive had great sucess w/ various combos of arrows * ranging between 3o"-32"_6o~15o grain tips_4oo~5oo spine_FFlight~D5o, etc *
I pull 54lbs at 31" on my bow and im WEARING MY STRINGS OUT at the loop tips. Maybe a shelf would make the inch or so difference im looking for?? Or any other suggestions to get max FPS without breaking my FF strings so quickly, im buying a dozen per year? Thanks for your videos i didnt see one on max draw.
peace
I love these NUSensei videos
When talking about arrow lengths
It is suggested that your arrows should average about 1.5 inches longer than your draw length
Does 1.5 inches include the Point, Shaft and Nock or just the arrow shaft?
Points can be of different lengths, so arrow measurement does not include the point.
My shafts are uncut...giggity 😜
mastrbutcher giggity giggity goo I’m quagmire stick around
Shafts? Like u have multiple? Whoa
Prepare for trouble and make it double
I ❤️🏹
High speed cut off wheels on a dremmel work great in a pinch.
Hi I just want to ask of what is the estimated arrow length that I need, Im 6foot tall and I wanted to buy a Blitz wolf recurve bow Im noob thank you
i have the problem of the arrows coming of the rest when I'm not being really careful. and they are uncut too. long draw length sucks lolol.
I'm looking around for a bow to purchase, and the Samick Polaris seem like a good (or at least decent) first bow to go with.
My question is, I'm quite tall, and not very strong (nowadays at least), and think a 68 inch 30 pound bow would be good. Does that set what my draw length is automatically? And what arrow length would you recommend with just this knowledge?
BovinaSancta79 did you ever get it?
When i release the arrow from my recurve bow why does the arrow tip go down as if the back end where the feathers are try to pass the tip
Justin McNabb there's a few variables that can cause this issue.
Vanes on an arrow contacting shelf instead of the rest.
Improper release
Nocking point in the wrong area
Center serving damage
And last I can think of off the top of my head is form. Try having someone else with you so they can record you taking the shot and go over the video to see where it's going wrong.
how much are easton x10s??
Can you have a 2 inch long arrow? Would it fly straight? (Saying you fired it from a rail)
ua-cam.com/video/lkMPK2569Ks/v-deo.html
I have a small industrial lathe that can easily accommodate an arrow down the mandrel. Can I use my lathe to cut arrows? Thank you.
Yes, a lathe is perfect except for the measurement. A devoted arrow saw, usually a diamond or carborundum cutting wheel, at the end of a long groove where the arrow sits, means an easy placed stopper with an accurate measurement that can repeat arrow length and be adjusted simply. but if you have a lathe there is a good chance you have the equipment and skill to build an arrow saw for next to nothing. Possibly even an adaptor for your angle grinder, or bench grinder would do the trick.
Wat arrow size for a 68 inch bow
a cheap and easy way to cut carbon arrows is using a copper pipe cutter and it will snap off cleanly every time not the most precise way to cut them but it will do in a pinch
its harding finding arrows for my 32.5" draw. any one have recommendations? 34" fletched
Im in the same boat
Never been charged for arrow extra for cutting if when buying them here in oz in the 20 years of archery.
as a guy with long arms and a far anchor point, it's refreshing to know that length doesn't matter
How is arrow length correctly measured? From tip to end of nock? From the tip to bottom of nock? Just the bare shaft length? or ???
The standard method is end of the shaft to the throat of the nock. Shaft-to-shaft is also used. Tips are never included in measurement.
Wayne, the proper way to measure arrow length is to the back of the inside of the knock, measured out to the end of the point on the arrow.
@@GaryCost The proper way is to the end of the carbon, not the tip. Do not include the tip in the length.
Great video.
Unrelated question...
I have started taking archery lessons and the coach is having me hold the riser in a weird way.
Basically my thumb points toward the target, but only my pointer finger comes around the riser. The rest of the fingers are inside on the same side of the riser as my bow arm.
Have you ever heard of this grip before? Seemed strange to me as I've never seen it mentioned. My shooting has improved over the lessons so it doesn't seem to be bad.
I'm no professional, but it sounds as if that's the typical beginner's grip. It's mainly to prevent you from gripping the bow, either to aim, or just in general. Over time you'll probably change it for something a bit more personalized and comfortable.
It's the grip I use - if you are using a sling you essentially don't grip the riser at all and just sit the riser against the fleshy part of your hand below the thumb. I can't seem to get used to using a sling, so the idea of this grip is to hold the bow as lightly as possible so as not to impart torque to the riser through an uneven, tense grip
Actually, NUSensei has mentioned this grip in one of his previous videos
You mean this grip as used by the current world record holder? forums.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small54615482.JPG
I think you should listen to him. :-)
You did not mention broadheads. I want that razor edge beyond my fingers, which means 32" arrows!
@Robert Davis I think he was strictly speaking about target arrows. I myself use a 32" aluminum shaft with my broadheads. I don't wan't any cut fingers either lol.
What exploded on the wall behind you. Looks like a kv-1 miss:)
But... my whole life I've been told length doesn't matter :(
Pintarider Gaming 😊 It’s in your technic
So you mentioned how cutting an arrow affects spinal strength. Is there any rule as to how much of an affect it has? Also, I have a video request for you to explain the archers paradox.
Ballpark, cutting an inch from an arrow is similar to adding 4 pounds to your bow or up a spine level.
This is a great site for playing with different arrows:
www.heilakka.com/stumiller/
Wouldn't another advantage to shooting a shorter arrow be less arrow weight, resulting in faster arrow flight and a flatter trajectory? Also can't an arrow that is cut a little too short (but not unsafe) be effectively made to behave less stiff by increasing the tip weight?
Yes & yes.
You have a Bear Minuteman? Awesome!
Temporarily.
I read ur post a bit crosseyed and thought it said Bare Minimum, leading to more confusion in my seeing the reply TEMPORARILY.
Giggity
Nu, i'm shooting olympic style (and obviously using a clicker) my draw length is near to 27,8 inches, my arrows was cut into 27,8 too. But with the points the final length is 28,5", it means i'm forcing myself to "overdraw"?
(My english is not good, sorry)
No, unless you have your clicker set too close and need to pull further to get through.
do the arrow heads come with the arrow or do you have to buy them separately?
They should come with the inserts that you have to glue in. You have to buy the points separately.
my draw length is 29.5 so i use 31 inch arrows, but for some reason that 30 inch arrow looks huge in your hands, i'm only 5"9' but i have long ass arms lol
no, you don't . My Draw lengh is 36 inches :)
Mine is 43 inches.
BRING ME ALL YOUR BITCHES.!!!
Can you explain what's front of center of arrow means ?
How far forward of center is the balance point. The further forward, the less effort the vanes have to work. The less the vanes have to work the more efficient the arrow flies.
Imagine if the weighted tip was attached to the nock end. The vanes probably couldn't keep the arrow straight and it would probably cartwheel because the balance point was to far back.
A longer arrow is supposed to be easier to aim without a sight.
Sight?
I can kind of that see that, although I shoot barebow with 30" arrows and a 29" draw, and tip of the arrow comes close enough to the rest that one of the senior members at my club was slightly worried about it and I can aim with the arrow tip without much trouble ahah
Yep Jimmy Blackmon recommends a longer arrow for gap shooters, makes the gaps much smaller. If you try it remember you'll need a stiffer arrow/lighter point than your usual length arrows.
is that bow your samick sage with different limbs? what bow is it you using in this video?
OMP Adventure 2.0.
So if you cut an arrow how do you get a tip on it? Is it already threaded deeply? Kinda hard to believe tip wasn't mentioned.
Tips are a removable part of the arrow. They can be glued in or glued on, or you can glue in an insert and screw the tip in.
hi there new archer here..... i was looking for a bow then found one and it turns out your displaying the same one in the video here... so i was wondering.. im gonna be a back yard shooter and the website did not say the length of arrow i needed for this bow. what do you recommend? Adventure 2.0
specified draw lengths are more of a recommendation than a requirement since overdrawing the bow to the point of breaking is humanly impossible and nothing bad happens if you don't manage to draw it all the way to the specified draw. Really the length depends on your own draw length which is found by finding the length of your arm span from finger tip to finger tip and dividing that value by 2.5. you have to be careful when selecting you spine for your arrows though. look up the gold tip spine chart and it should give you a list of recommended values for arrow length with whatever poundage bow and grain arrow tips your specific bow should be using. it's important to match your spine to your bow since it affects the archer paradox and will determine if your arrows fly straight or will come in at an angle. too stiff and it will want to glance off your bow and fly off target too flexible and it will bend like crazy in mid flight which will reduce its aerodynamics, speed and penetration. I think it'll be easier to understand if you watch the archers paradox video from smarter every day to fully understand what I'm talking about
@@xvaldez3284 The best way I'VE found to determine draw length is to take an uncut shaft with nothing on it but a nock. Put the shaft on your bowstring, draw it to whatever
you're going to use as your anchor point(I put my thumb into the corner of my jaw), and have someone mark the point where the shaft crosses the side of the bow AWAY from
you(I can never remember whether this is the "back" or the "belly"). Then you can figure out how much extra shaft will suit your needs. The archery industry standard for arrow
length is 28"; most mass-produced bows are tillered for draw WEIGHT at that length(remember that increasing or decreasing arrow length will either add or subtract a couple
of pounds per inch, i.e. if you have a bow that draws 30 lbs at 28", and you use arrows that are only 26" long, the draw weight will DROP by about 5 - 10 lbs. Similarly, a 30"
draw length will UP the weight of the bow by about the same amount). BTW, I used the formula you gave, and came out with an answer of 28.8 inches length. For ME, at least,
that's wrong; MY draw length, with the anchor point I use, is 30 inches. I suspect that your formula is based on everyone using the SAME stance, anchor point, etc.
Unfortunately, one size does NOT fit ALL. Instead of trying to figure the necessary length out by math, one should do it by the method I described, actual measurement, which
takes into account where you intend to hold your arrows
She always told me lenghth didnt matter, deep down i knew it did.
Longer arrows are better when gap shooting, they reduce the gap significantly.
..and, you sure can see the point of your arrow alot better if the arrow is long. This is critical for gap shooting.
Clicker? I thought those held the arrows on the rest so it DIDNT fall off.
After you cut an arrow how do you attach the tip?
Get a insert glued in
What bow should I get for a beginner
B&R recurve target shooting ILF
If I have arrows that are approximately three inches longer it shouldn't really affect my shot process right?
It shouldn't.
It won't affect your shot process. I used long arrows and the AAE extended clicker and shot just fine. If you use long arrows, you can also save money by shooting the same shafts while going up in poundage by starting uncut and cutting the arrows more and more as you increase draw weight.
Shorter arrows are lighter so faster with flatter trajectory... so you need a higher spine (softer) to compensate for the shorter length...?
No. You don't change spine because of speed or trajectory. Spine is chosen so that the arrow leaves the bow in a straighter path and for the best clearance.
That not what I was saying ..I'm saying when you shorten an arrow the spine becomes stiffer so you may (like me ) need a softer spine to begin with to allow you to shorten it... does that make sense and that the shorter the arrow the lighter it is thus becomes a bit faster ...
Yeah, those are two different statements. Lighter arrows fly faster (regardless of spine). Shorter arrows are stiffer than longer arrows so you need a softer starting spine, so when you cut it it will stiffen. (and higher spine means a weaker arrow). Tuning arrows makes my head hurt.
I've been fortunate not needing to cut my arrows. I have a 30 in draw.
My arrows are about 80 cm long. I have maybe 2cm of arrow left
As short as possible, without cutting yourself. What I’ve come to understand, anyway.
Wouldn't a Dremel work.
it's official boyz, length does matter
Indians from amazon forest use some very long and heavy arrows, almost atlatl dart size, a foot longer than the draw length. Their arrows have head of stone, bone or hardwood and are thinner at the nock side side than at the point, either being made of cane or wood. Their bows rarely reach 60lbs, averaging between 30 to 50lbs. They draw using the pinch draw method or some variation of. Normally they shoot instinctive, releasing right at the end of the draw, because that way the bow shoot a bit faster, considering how heavy the arrow is. This is so because the forest is dense, and most shots are at quite close distances, probably at most 20 yards or so. The exception is when shooting birds or mammals high up in the trees or over a river, then they use lighter arrows. Their heavy arrows are able to kill large animals as alligators, jaguars, tapirs, etc.
0:36 what she said
What’s that stubby thing sticking out on the top of the ‘Olympic’ bow riser?
It's a short stabiliser, used for vibration control and a bit of balance.
Get 31 inch they're the best ones
I didnt really have a say in the matter.
Perfect arrow length = distance to target - draw length.
length matters, she was lying to you
My draw lenght is 36 inches..so I need 38 inches arrows ? :)
qpae123 lol, I don't think ur draw length is 36" unless ur like 7'6"
What style?
Wait shooting into my own hand is *bad?!*
not so bad if you have no target
You'll have to forgive me NuSensei - I admire your work, and I'm a self-taught novice, but I'm going to chance my arm and say that you're flat wrong about length affecting spine.
If I understand spine correctly, it is a measure of arrow rigidity achieved by placing an arrow between two supports spaced at precisely 28 inches, suspending from the midpoint of the arrow a weight of exactly half a pound, and then gauging precisely the maximum extent that the arrow is deformed from perfectly straight.
This means that shortening an arrow has no effect whatsoever on its spine.
What it actually means is that - for any given spine - the longer is the arrow, the more there is of it to flex when shot from a bow.
That ain't exactly the same thing: but it is the amount of flex (deviation from perfectly straight) along the arrow as a whole that affects the accuracy of your shot/shots.
Less arrow, less deviation.
Simples.
To clarify, shortening an arrow will affect its dynamic spine, not its static spine. Take a shaft of a stated spine rating, cut it down, and it will be stiffer than it was.
@@NUSensei So - in short - you are agreeing with me 👍👍, but introducing a technical term most of your audience has never heard before . . . . I'm not sure the latter is helpful 👎, but hey - keep up the great wortk 😊
@@NUSensei I've been thinking about how best to communicate this phenomenon: then I thought of my dad - who was a very fine professional orchestral violinist.
You could think 'guitar' (or 'harp' or 'zither', perhaps?*) and still get the idea.
To play different notes on the same string, a violinist or guitarist moves their fingers up and down the neck of the instrument**, applying pressure against the frets, effectively changing the length of the part of the string that can vibrate.
The stiffness of the string is unchanged by this - but the frequency (pitch) and amplitude (loudness) of the note it plays are both changed as a result: shorter strings vibrate faster but quieter than longer ones.
The same is true when you shorten an arrow of a given stiffness: it will still flex (vibrate) in flight, but reducing the length of the shaft will change the frequency and amplitude of the flexing, and this in turn iwll affect the way that it flies downrange.
Tell that to your students, and when they get it (but not before!) bring them into the jargon of 'static spine' and 'dynamic spine' 😊👍
* In harps and zithers the fingers are moved between strings of different lengths - but the result is the same, for any 2 strings of the same stiffness but different length.
**Want to see this in close up - watch the guy accompanying Candy Dulfer in this spine-tingling performance:
ua-cam.com/video/VWY4QInOkMs/v-deo.html
@@philipsturtivant9385
Ohh be quiet loudmouth.
@@jayytee8062 When the seagulls follow the trawler, it is because they think sardines will be thrown into the sea.
Yeah, yeah, I hear lots of guys saying an extra 1.5" is needed. But once cut, cannot be uncut.
Tell me M.O.R.E. . . . . . . . about L.O.N.G.E.R. length X10s verses your regular length A/C/Es
{{You HAD 720 A/C/E last time I checked. I Believe your first set of A/C/E were 670 but too stiff for your setup.}}
If the .670 A/C/E & .720 A/C/E were ''expected'' length / ie. just out-the-front of riser / WHY LONGER length X10 ? ? ?
I actually estimated them to be similar in length, since my X10s are 750 spine (with a lighter point), but I haven't completed a full tune yet, and my coach has been very conservative with cutting off more length than needed with an X10.
Ah, LIGHER POINT!!!!
That TOTALLY justifies the L.O.N.G.E.R. length. You'll have faster velocity out-of-the-bow due to a ligher arrow. Somewhere I heard every 3grains saved is 1fps, so if you are only 10grains lighter POINT, you might be 3+fps faster. @20grains, maybe about 7fps faster. On another `point` [he he] longer shaft = simpler tune, yes?
#Lengthmatters
Please try to also use the metric system 😞
Everything in archery is in imperial. Get used to it
@Rad Derry Don't get me wrong, I'm exactly with you on using the metric system. Hell, I'm an engineer from Germany and I hate imperial measurements with a burning passion.
Still, western archery is from a time, when the metric system wasn't implemented. My guess is, that it's by tradition imperial and hard to change, since all the acessories are made with imperial measurements in mind. Sure, you could say, that a riser is 55cm long, but literally ALL retailers will offer 25" risers instead.
It's not like we're trying to land on the moon here. Adapting metric in archery isn't as necessary as in modern technology.
@Rad Derry yeahnah, even on am island i wouldn't start with imperial measurements. Sure, I'd use my hand or arm as a rudimentary ruler, but I wouldn't start calling 13 arms a blarf and 27 blarfs a blorf. I'm not building islands new standard mudhut, I'm building a shelter that fits my body and that will not be recreated by anyone except me.
The threads in risers are all imperial, so where's the metric manufacturing there?
Its not about length its about girth, bro
I use 45inch arrows cuz I like to show off my long shafts
Im 12 shoot a 25 pound bow and shoot a 20 yards my arrow length is 30 inch i might have to upgrade soon
Why not use a different clickernif your arrows too long..giggedy
Son, you talk TOO MUCH
So don't watch ever again.
Problem solved that way, son.