NUSensei THANK YOU! As a new archer who just got a real bow for christmas (made a bow and arrows out of bamboo because i did not have the money) i have learned so many things from your videos. You go in detail about so many aspects of shooting and give visual examples, something that many people don't do. You have inspire me to pursue this interest I've had since a child and im sure many others could say the same. Keep it up and thank you again.
Bless you, NuSensei! I was quite frustrated when I tried to find a protocol on teaching the clicker. There was none to find, so I wrote one. Part of that include a test to qualify to install a clicker. The test is based upon having decent basic form and consistency. As coach, I confirm that my archer can achieve a good full draw position. Then I instruct them that we are going to draw and let down a number of times. So, on the first draw, one they have settled, I use a Sharpie pen to place a dot on their arrow shaft opposite their pressure button (or the hole one would be installed in if using a srew in rest). This is repeat four more times. The set of five dots on the arrow shaft is then inspected. If the farthest apart dots are one quarter inch apart or less, then "Yes, it is time to install a clicker." If they are one half inch down to one quarter inch apart, then it is a "Maybe" and if over one half inch, then it is classified as "More practice is needed." The maybes are evaluated based upon the archer's personality. The marks on the arrow shaft allow the clicker to be properly initially placed (toward the farthest edge of the spread) and then there is a protocol to use followed when learning to shoot with the clicker involved. My hope was that this provided coaches a way to make this decision without (a) having to have a more learned way of estimating form consistency, and (b) a test that if the student fails, the coach doesn't get blamed for witholding the device.
Thanks for making this video about using the clicker, Nu. I've had to explain its function to pretty much every beginner archer or non-archer, since apparently it's not obvious what the instrument does. Guesses at its use have ranged from "Keeping the arrow in place" to "Guiding the arrow straight through the shot". I struggled with my clicker for months on and off since I first started using it, and I imagine complete beginners even with immaculate gear would be frustrated by it. It'd be cool if you made a "first time tuning guide" for beginners who just got their first olympic recurve. Things like determining brace height, tiller, arrow alignment, nocking point placement, plunger button tuning. Or maybe you already made one of those :P Thanks again for your hard work!
Glad that you're down with the draw length indicator ... I'm going to set up ,,, on one of my bows ,,, when I move up to my 50 lb recurve & shoot hundred arrows a day ... been doing the bungee stretches mimicking the draw and drawing my bow to test the strings I made ,,, only one popped off ... I started with too short of stock ... it's like with my guitars ... I work on them for a long time before ,,, I actually start using them ,,, fanatical about the tech ... Thanks 👍👍👍
Yeah ,,, Coach ... I'll start shooting a hundred arrows a day w/ 35-lb traditional recurve and work on form and release and all that ,,, before I move up to the 50 lb with the clicker ... D
This is a good topic that you are dealing in this video. Many hunters use the "Klickety Klick Clicker" and I wonder if I should use it to, because I wish to get rid off certain bad habits I developed over years. There is always place for improvement. 😐
The idea of a draw length check isn't unique to modern archery. Shooting a primitive bow off the knuckle allows one to feel the base of the arrow head, which can trigger the release as well as a clicker. It's probably not as accurate, but it still adds an extra point of consistency.
I just started practicing with my g2 barebow so that I can shoot at the Lancaster classic in a couple of weeks.. clickers arent allowed in barebow division but I finally see how valuable a clicker could be.. im string walking and bringing the feather to my nose and as soon as it touches my nose the arrow is gone, however now I'm finding that sometimes my bow arm starts collapsing. I should have tried a clicker months ago
I'm like your second archer. I'm finding my anchor, but not always following through with the shot. I ordered my clicker last week. Now I can't wait for it to arrive and start using it.
They are evil things, before I was started using one I was shooting consistently 520-530 on a Portsmouth. The clicker took that down to high 490's for 2-3 months AND forced me to reduce poundage from 45lbs on the fingers down to 39lbs (because you hold longer with a clicker). Eventually got through it and my scores recovered. It was not a fun time...
@@clementj You can hardly hear the arrow hit the target at that time stamp. My guess is that it hit an air pocket in the target or brushed another arrow.
There were several arrows he shot that didn't make a sound of hitting a Target after he loosed them... but yeah, that was one of them... I wondered the same thing, it could have hit a soft spot on the target and so not produce a sound loud enough to reach the mike, I guess... from what I remember of the target area in other vids he doesn't use a Net Backstop behind them, but then it should produce a metallic clang sound as the arrow hits the shed wall... O.o And yeah, if you loose the arrow without hearing the "Click" it can strip a fletching off... been there have more than several T-Shirts! lol
I can 100% support the point about helping with process. It helped for me when i started using a clicker. We have one archer in our club who has been shooting for around 2 years and he does not improve. His technique is generally quite ok, but his process is way too fast, he pays way too much attention on hitting the target and he is lacking in back tension. He would greatly benefit from using a clicker to slow everything down and show him where in his technique he needs to improve but he refuses to use one (well he basically just refuses to attach a clicker plate on his specific bow, making the use of a clicker impossible). It is sad to see but you can't help everyone.
NuSensei - Can you talk about drills or how to train yourself to engage your back while pulling high draw-weight recurves? I find with low-weight bows I can draw with back, but as I increase poundage I pull mostly with my arms :(... I believe this means that my draw weight is too heavy since I can't maintain form? Would like to hear your thoughts! Love your videos
@@NUSensei You're so funny... No, but I have one. I even bought a nice arrow cutter. After watching this video, I'm definitely going to introduce it. My previous coach told me to wait - but I'm training remotely for now!
I'm practicing for a year, I added the clicker, but noticed degradation in my precision, seems the clicker introduces something in the trajectory of the arrow? Is this normal, or because I'm to much focusing on clicker and need extra time? Thanks for this topic.
Sensei should I buy initech 2 from decathlon as it is the only archery supply near me? I live in India and that to in a city which is pretty much isolated from sports except from cricket and soccer. Decathlon is only store near me that sells archery equipment. I am a little tense as it would be my first bow. AND I AM 16 RIGHT HANDED ARCHER (USED TO MAKE PVC BOWS AND USE THEM) USED DRAW WEIGHT OF 20 LBS. Please help me Sensei PLEASE PLEASE
You have to be careful by introducing the archer to the clicker too soon, though. Even the professional archer may suffer from "reaction to clicker", as we call it. Instead of doing the process well, drawing unstoppably until the clicker actually clicks, the archer draws inconsistently and is "waiting" for the clicker. If you catch yourself doing this, there are two ways to overcome it. First is you try to "overdraw" the clicker. Thus, when the clicker clicks, you do not shoot. Instead, you draw further, like at least 0.3-0.5 millimeters after, and let it go. Second one is you place two clickers... And after the first one clicks, you continue your draw until the second one clicks as well.
Was wondering how long he would wait to bring up the clicker as cheating, and in truth its more of a cheat than a site yet we don't bring it up as a cheating piece of equipment, maybe its because of the for lack of a better term "clicker panic." [I don't think either is cheating, unless its against a competitions rules or if you claim to be a trad shooter and put one on your trad bow] I agree you need to learn basic form first but I think a clicker should be added quickly after as 1) it shows issues in your sequence when you don't draw deep enough for the click or when it clicks early, and 2) there is a large mental component that comes from using a clicker and that takes time to get rid of so the earlier you start the faster it can be overcome. The olympic shooters at my club treat the clicker as a basic component in the kit and as such when I started setting up my target bow I just got one and one of the coaches told me to put it right one (had been shooting barebow for 2years), I though I was anal about my draw with a barebow but once the clicker was one small errors in the draw showed when it didn't click. 2 tips though for early clicker use: 1) Don't do it next to compount shooters who use tension releases as they make the same noise, and 2) don't release the arrow before it clicks this will strip your feathers off (not sure if the vane or the clicker will break if you do this with vanes) and seeing that puff of feather is depressing Request for a video: wrist straps and finger slings
@@xpistalpetex this is nu's review on it it has side mounts not sure if they are practical to equip there currently have arrow carry with quick release there happy to change the limb set one look like might need adjusting every stringing? ua-cam.com/video/LpVLUoYJQZg/v-deo.html
That's what ILF implies, so it should be pretty obvious that you *can* if you really wanted to. I guess if you couldn't afford a matched set and found top and bottom limbs from different manufacturers but with the same length, draw weight, tiller, and that were still in decent shape you might be able to get away with it. Sounds like an unlikely scenario to me, and any other arrangement could potentially be dangerous or at least useless.
Thanks for your awesome videos which has really helped with my archery. I'm looking to get a better bow and always see most of the pros using Hoyt risers while my coach tells me Win&win are better. Could you please make a review on them as I've searched everywhere and can't find any comparisons. Please don't ask me to go to my local store as I live in Africa and we don't have any lol
@@NUSensei Thank you for your quick response but still stuck on what to invest my money on because as you know neither of the high end ones come cheap. It would really help if you make a great comparison video on the top high end risers and describe the feel and get feedback from other archers on why they prefer one over the other. Thanks again!
Both are going to feel the same. There's nothing that I can say or show that definitively proves one is better than the other. Remember that you're talking about brands rather than specific models. Not every Hoyt or W&W limb is going to feel the same. Generally, if you're going to get an expensive limb, it's going to feel like a souped up engine in a sports car.
How about showing one in actual use? This is the second video of yours I have watched today that I can't even figure out what the thing you are showing is used for.
Ive been highly considering getting a clicker for months, my question is wether its still benificial to train with a clicker if you want to shoot competition in a division that doesnt allow it (barebow in this case), or would it actually be detrimental since i would not be able to rely on it in a competition ?
I'd say: because clicker goes off when you're at full draw correctly, you will more accurately remember how that feels like. It will help you learn to draw more consistently even when you take it off.
Heh... I was a target shooter at school, and then at a club after that... I was showing off my "Space Shuttle" - a fully loaded Yamaha YTSL II - 40# @28", complete with Long Rod, Y-Bar & Top shorty Stabilisers, as well as an Arten Summit II sight - on it's stand it looked like a kind of rocket ready to take off, hence my nickname for it... Anywhoo, I had been using a Clicker for years... so in the living room, I made sure not to be pointing in the direction of the people in the room, so was facing a Solid Brick wall, about 3 or 4 meters from me... I drew back, wound up my shoulders and heard the "click!"... Aaaaand released as I would normally do as a autonomic reaction to the sound of the clicker... >.< The X7 arrow hit the wall and re-bounded, yep I shouldn't have knocked the arrow - yep, that was my rookie mistake, yep I never made that mistake again... I had a look at the wall though, and measured the hole the arrow made the arrow had gone into the wall about 1 1/2" (38mm-ish)...
One-third of your story is bragging about your bow. I doubt anyone will appreciate that or actually care, since it's completely unrelated to the story.
Interesting. Not having access to handguns here in Australia; I was wondering what sort of hole could a normal, say, .25 ACP, .22LR, .38 special or 9mm excavate if fired into and identical brick wall? 1.5 inches? Even though the arrow does not have the energy of a handgun bullet, I think there's something about the dynamics and axial vibration of the arrow at impact that tends to continue to drive it into the target after initial impact enabling the arrow to "punch above it's weight" ballisticly speaking, compared with some bullets. Just wondering... Cheers, Eric the (bee)/2
@@ericthehalfabee7980 Interesting.. I'd like to know the answer to that question too... I examined the arrow afterwards, it was still in good condition, the NIB Bullet Point on the arrow hadn't even pushed back into the shaft... I'd expected it to have split the shaft of the arrow as it was forced back in... the tip of the point was still sharp too and not blunted... then again the wall was old Victorian Brick, so maybe that had something to do with it, maybe it had softened slightly with age or something but not enough to crumble and stop doing it's job...
Didn’t get to see it because a political ad came on, and had to restart from the beginning, twice, and then yet another ad came on, stopping the video. Boycott youtube! Perhaps there is another way to stream videos? And whatever ad comes on that ruined UA-cam, we should never do whatever it is that trash promotes!
Hey NU, thanks for the video! Came right on time for me - as sometimes I forget to release using back tension and missing. I was thinking that clicker might be a cure for that problem of mine, 'cause as you say "you don't shoot until clicker goes off". Should be also helpful for "full draw and then back tension before release" drill which my coach recommended me as it should force me to expand exactly the same amount every time.
I learn so much watching these. Nobody else breaks down archery like nusensei.
My clicker questions have been answered
NUSensei THANK YOU! As a new archer who just got a real bow for christmas (made a bow and arrows out of bamboo because i did not have the money) i have learned so many things from your videos. You go in detail about so many aspects of shooting and give visual examples, something that many people don't do. You have inspire me to pursue this interest I've had since a child and im sure many others could say the same. Keep it up and thank you again.
Bless you, NuSensei! I was quite frustrated when I tried to find a protocol on teaching the clicker. There was none to find, so I wrote one. Part of that include a test to qualify to install a clicker. The test is based upon having decent basic form and consistency. As coach, I confirm that my archer can achieve a good full draw position. Then I instruct them that we are going to draw and let down a number of times. So, on the first draw, one they have settled, I use a Sharpie pen to place a dot on their arrow shaft opposite their pressure button (or the hole one would be installed in if using a srew in rest). This is repeat four more times. The set of five dots on the arrow shaft is then inspected. If the farthest apart dots are one quarter inch apart or less, then "Yes, it is time to install a clicker." If they are one half inch down to one quarter inch apart, then it is a "Maybe" and if over one half inch, then it is classified as "More practice is needed." The maybes are evaluated based upon the archer's personality.
The marks on the arrow shaft allow the clicker to be properly initially placed (toward the farthest edge of the spread) and then there is a protocol to use followed when learning to shoot with the clicker involved. My hope was that this provided coaches a way to make this decision without (a) having to have a more learned way of estimating form consistency, and (b) a test that if the student fails, the coach doesn't get blamed for witholding the device.
Thanks for making this video about using the clicker, Nu. I've had to explain its function to pretty much every beginner archer or non-archer, since apparently it's not obvious what the instrument does.
Guesses at its use have ranged from "Keeping the arrow in place" to "Guiding the arrow straight through the shot".
I struggled with my clicker for months on and off since I first started using it, and I imagine complete beginners even with immaculate gear would be frustrated by it.
It'd be cool if you made a "first time tuning guide" for beginners who just got their first olympic recurve. Things like determining brace height, tiller, arrow alignment, nocking point placement, plunger button tuning. Or maybe you already made one of those :P
Thanks again for your hard work!
I)
I started using one, once I could group at 20m ... As for when... It was a couple of months after I started archery and bought my own kit.
Great video
Glad that you're down with the draw length indicator ... I'm going to set up ,,, on one of my bows ,,, when I move up to my 50 lb recurve & shoot hundred arrows a day ... been doing the bungee stretches mimicking the draw and drawing my bow to test the strings I made ,,, only one popped off ... I started with too short of stock ... it's like with my guitars ... I work on them for a long time before ,,, I actually start using them ,,, fanatical about the tech ... Thanks 👍👍👍
Yeah ,,, Coach ... I'll start shooting a hundred arrows a day w/ 35-lb traditional recurve and work on form and release and all that ,,, before I move up to the 50 lb with the clicker ... D
I can see from the comments ,,, that you're really able to connect with folks ... Well done ... I'm sure it's a labor of love ... D
This is a good topic that you are dealing in this video. Many hunters use the "Klickety Klick Clicker" and I wonder if I should use it to, because I wish to get rid off certain bad habits I developed over years. There is always place for improvement. 😐
The idea of a draw length check isn't unique to modern archery. Shooting a primitive bow off the knuckle allows one to feel the base of the arrow head, which can trigger the release as well as a clicker. It's probably not as accurate, but it still adds an extra point of consistency.
I just started practicing with my g2 barebow so that I can shoot at the Lancaster classic in a couple of weeks.. clickers arent allowed in barebow division but I finally see how valuable a clicker could be.. im string walking and bringing the feather to my nose and as soon as it touches my nose the arrow is gone, however now I'm finding that sometimes my bow arm starts collapsing. I should have tried a clicker months ago
seems like great advice, i've put it off for far too long, thanks
I'm like your second archer. I'm finding my anchor, but not always following through with the shot. I ordered my clicker last week. Now I can't wait for it to arrive and start using it.
Great video as always but I think it would have been more helpful to the novice archer to see how it works in action and how it is fitted to the bow.
They are evil things, before I was started using one I was shooting consistently 520-530 on a Portsmouth. The clicker took that down to high 490's for 2-3 months AND forced me to reduce poundage from 45lbs on the fingers down to 39lbs (because you hold longer with a clicker). Eventually got through it and my scores recovered. It was not a fun time...
4:29 what happen to the arrow you shoot but without hitting sound???
The metal clicker bar will scrape the fletching off the arrow.
@@wojtekimbier I read that comment so many times but could not, for the life of me, understand what the OP is asking until I read yours LOL...
@@clementj You can hardly hear the arrow hit the target at that time stamp. My guess is that it hit an air pocket in the target or brushed another arrow.
There were several arrows he shot that didn't make a sound of hitting a Target after he loosed them... but yeah, that was one of them... I wondered the same thing, it could have hit a soft spot on the target and so not produce a sound loud enough to reach the mike, I guess... from what I remember of the target area in other vids he doesn't use a Net Backstop behind them, but then it should produce a metallic clang sound as the arrow hits the shed wall... O.o And yeah, if you loose the arrow without hearing the "Click" it can strip a fletching off... been there have more than several T-Shirts! lol
@@wojtekimbier it wont. it snaps out of the way after it slips of the tip ot the arrow.
I just noticed the archerology shirt, thats nice!
Cool, thanks Nu. I am now thinking of using one to really dial in my draw. I shoot off the shelf, will I need an arrow rest to work with said clicker?
I can 100% support the point about helping with process. It helped for me when i started using a clicker. We have one archer in our club who has been shooting for around 2 years and he does not improve. His technique is generally quite ok, but his process is way too fast, he pays way too much attention on hitting the target and he is lacking in back tension. He would greatly benefit from using a clicker to slow everything down and show him where in his technique he needs to improve but he refuses to use one (well he basically just refuses to attach a clicker plate on his specific bow, making the use of a clicker impossible). It is sad to see but you can't help everyone.
NU Sensei what is the model of the purple riser you used in the video?
Bosenbow Horn
NuSensei - Can you talk about drills or how to train yourself to engage your back while pulling high draw-weight recurves? I find with low-weight bows I can draw with back, but as I increase poundage I pull mostly with my arms :(... I believe this means that my draw weight is too heavy since I can't maintain form? Would like to hear your thoughts! Love your videos
...have you tried using a clicker?
@@NUSensei You're so funny... No, but I have one. I even bought a nice arrow cutter. After watching this video, I'm definitely going to introduce it. My previous coach told me to wait - but I'm training remotely for now!
your 3rd demonstration (6.30 or there abouts), i dont know if it was intention as an example but you seem to be letting the bow down before release
I'm practicing for a year, I added the clicker, but noticed degradation in my precision, seems the clicker introduces something in the trajectory of the arrow?
Is this normal, or because I'm to much focusing on clicker and need extra time?
Thanks for this topic.
Very helpful thank you
Sensei should I buy initech 2 from decathlon as it is the only archery supply near me? I live in India and that to in a city which is pretty much isolated from sports except from cricket and soccer. Decathlon is only store near me that sells archery equipment. I am a little tense as it would be my first bow. AND I AM 16 RIGHT HANDED ARCHER (USED TO MAKE PVC BOWS AND USE THEM) USED DRAW WEIGHT OF 20 LBS. Please help me Sensei PLEASE PLEASE
You have to be careful by introducing the archer to the clicker too soon, though.
Even the professional archer may suffer from "reaction to clicker", as we call it. Instead of doing the process well, drawing unstoppably until the clicker actually clicks, the archer draws inconsistently and is "waiting" for the clicker.
If you catch yourself doing this, there are two ways to overcome it. First is you try to "overdraw" the clicker. Thus, when the clicker clicks, you do not shoot. Instead, you draw further, like at least 0.3-0.5 millimeters after, and let it go.
Second one is you place two clickers... And after the first one clicks, you continue your draw until the second one clicks as well.
what bow and limbs is he using
Just Great Advice!
My coach told me the longer i can avoid using one, the better an archer i’ll be... evil clickers!!! LOL!
4:28 where's the thwack? I know you didn't miss the whole target on that one!
Was wondering how long he would wait to bring up the clicker as cheating, and in truth its more of a cheat than a site yet we don't bring it up as a cheating piece of equipment, maybe its because of the for lack of a better term "clicker panic." [I don't think either is cheating, unless its against a competitions rules or if you claim to be a trad shooter and put one on your trad bow]
I agree you need to learn basic form first but I think a clicker should be added quickly after as 1) it shows issues in your sequence when you don't draw deep enough for the click or when it clicks early, and 2) there is a large mental component that comes from using a clicker and that takes time to get rid of so the earlier you start the faster it can be overcome.
The olympic shooters at my club treat the clicker as a basic component in the kit and as such when I started setting up my target bow I just got one and one of the coaches told me to put it right one (had been shooting barebow for 2years), I though I was anal about my draw with a barebow but once the clicker was one small errors in the draw showed when it didn't click.
2 tips though for early clicker use: 1) Don't do it next to compount shooters who use tension releases as they make the same noise, and 2) don't release the arrow before it clicks this will strip your feathers off (not sure if the vane or the clicker will break if you do this with vanes) and seeing that puff of feather is depressing
Request for a video: wrist straps and finger slings
ua-cam.com/video/g-NWYgBoNak/v-deo.html
I have a spyder with hair rest on shelf and strike plate, can I equip a clicker or will be blocked by the strike plate?
@@xpistalpetex this is nu's review on it it has side mounts not sure if they are practical to equip there currently have arrow carry with quick release there happy to change the limb set one look like might need adjusting every stringing? ua-cam.com/video/LpVLUoYJQZg/v-deo.html
Just watched some myself no clicker mounting has to be a limb mounted clicker, do you have an opinion on limb clickers?
Turn arm isnt necessary for a archery?Why I can't see you turn your arm in 7:00?
Can you use different ILF Limbs at the same time? Like Hoyt bottom Limb and W&W top Limb?
That's what ILF implies, so it should be pretty obvious that you *can* if you really wanted to. I guess if you couldn't afford a matched set and found top and bottom limbs from different manufacturers but with the same length, draw weight, tiller, and that were still in decent shape you might be able to get away with it. Sounds like an unlikely scenario to me, and any other arrangement could potentially be dangerous or at least useless.
Thanks for your awesome videos which has really helped with my archery. I'm looking to get a better bow and always see most of the pros using Hoyt risers while my coach tells me Win&win are better. Could you please make a review on them as I've searched everywhere and can't find any comparisons. Please don't ask me to go to my local store as I live in Africa and we don't have any lol
Both are good; neither are considerably better than the other.
@@NUSensei Thank you for your quick response but still stuck on what to invest my money on because as you know neither of the high end ones come cheap. It would really help if you make a great comparison video on the top high end risers and describe the feel and get feedback from other archers on why they prefer one over the other. Thanks again!
Both are going to feel the same. There's nothing that I can say or show that definitively proves one is better than the other. Remember that you're talking about brands rather than specific models. Not every Hoyt or W&W limb is going to feel the same. Generally, if you're going to get an expensive limb, it's going to feel like a souped up engine in a sports car.
@@NUSensei Thank you for your insightful response once again! Looking forward to seeing your latest videos.
Don't know if it's just me but vid is on low quality no option to change??
Takes a bit of time for UA-cam to render the higher resolutions.
How about showing one in actual use? This is the second video of yours I have watched today that I can't even figure out what the thing you are showing is used for.
7:55 so true
9:15 also very true ;)
Ive been highly considering getting a clicker for months, my question is wether its still benificial to train with a clicker if you want to shoot competition in a division that doesnt allow it (barebow in this case), or would it actually be detrimental since i would not be able to rely on it in a competition ?
I'd say: because clicker goes off when you're at full draw correctly, you will more accurately remember how that feels like. It will help you learn to draw more consistently even when you take it off.
Might build muscle memory
ahaha. one missing thing when you imitate beginner archer, they usualy don't use back tension.
Once you mount a clicker to your bow, forever will it dominate your destiny...
clicker help u load the arrow i think... im struggling to load it without clicker and fivic saker1 thumb rest are in the way XD
3:42 HAHAHAHAHA!!!!
ahh the trusted clicker .... cuing up target panic for eons
Morten Jacobsen
Yes the clicker helped me with target panic!
Gary Mickus
Thanks for the vid, as a CASUAL archer since the age of 12, (now 56), I've been wondering if I should use a clicker.
Heh... I was a target shooter at school, and then at a club after that... I was showing off my "Space Shuttle" - a fully loaded Yamaha YTSL II - 40# @28", complete with Long Rod, Y-Bar & Top shorty Stabilisers, as well as an Arten Summit II sight - on it's stand it looked like a kind of rocket ready to take off, hence my nickname for it... Anywhoo, I had been using a Clicker for years... so in the living room, I made sure not to be pointing in the direction of the people in the room, so was facing a Solid Brick wall, about 3 or 4 meters from me... I drew back, wound up my shoulders and heard the "click!"... Aaaaand released as I would normally do as a autonomic reaction to the sound of the clicker... >.< The X7 arrow hit the wall and re-bounded, yep I shouldn't have knocked the arrow - yep, that was my rookie mistake, yep I never made that mistake again... I had a look at the wall though, and measured the hole the arrow made the arrow had gone into the wall about 1 1/2" (38mm-ish)...
One-third of your story is bragging about your bow. I doubt anyone will appreciate that or actually care, since it's completely unrelated to the story.
@@christopherniewiadomski4075 Hmmmmm Bragging about kit that is over 30 years old and redundant... yeah... right...
Idk 'bout the kit but a funny story that any clicker user can relate to
Interesting. Not having access to handguns here in Australia; I was wondering what sort of hole could a normal, say, .25 ACP, .22LR, .38 special or 9mm excavate if fired into and identical brick wall? 1.5 inches? Even though the arrow does not have the energy of a handgun bullet, I think there's something about the dynamics and axial vibration of the arrow at impact that tends to continue to drive it into the target after initial impact enabling the arrow to "punch above it's weight" ballisticly speaking, compared with some bullets. Just wondering...
Cheers, Eric the (bee)/2
@@ericthehalfabee7980 Interesting.. I'd like to know the answer to that question too... I examined the arrow afterwards, it was still in good condition, the NIB Bullet Point on the arrow hadn't even pushed back into the shaft... I'd expected it to have split the shaft of the arrow as it was forced back in... the tip of the point was still sharp too and not blunted... then again the wall was old Victorian Brick, so maybe that had something to do with it, maybe it had softened slightly with age or something but not enough to crumble and stop doing it's job...
first
Lol, i thought i was first
@@alfrecialatumahina6848 you both came in last :)
Didn’t get to see it because a political ad came on, and had to restart from the beginning, twice, and then yet another ad came on, stopping the video. Boycott youtube! Perhaps there is another way to stream videos? And whatever ad comes on that ruined UA-cam, we should never do whatever it is that trash promotes!
Nice demonstration of poor technique
Hey NU, thanks for the video! Came right on time for me - as sometimes I forget to release using back tension and missing. I was thinking that clicker might be a cure for that problem of mine, 'cause as you say "you don't shoot until clicker goes off". Should be also helpful for "full draw and then back tension before release" drill which my coach recommended me as it should force me to expand exactly the same amount every time.