Electrician for 10 years. Easy day removing troffer fixtures. Removed a ceiling tie wire and while holding it the wire turned and penetrated my eye. I'm sitting here very lucky. I will never forget this close call and wear eye protection every time.
@@affinity3281 man I never thought about a wire doing that. Especially after jobs I do, since I cut my ends sharp. Thanks. Always wear glasses when I use power tools, now I'll do it when I mess with overhead wires too. I can totally see that happening really easy, just never thought about it. Thanks.
Got a metal filing in my eye unibiting a hole overhead. Still dont wear glasses always but definitly more often. Maybe more often after reading these comments.
I always wear safety glasses, even over my regular, spec's, when ,pulling a service meter, & Installing, After a, power company, guy, told me about why, his face was "POCK-MARKED", a meter exploded on him. In those days they were glass, but plastic does, damage to eyes also, Maybe a shield, also, been Trade 50 years.
I know they make safety glass based on your prescription nowadays if you don't want to wear two sets of glasses. I was getting frustrated wearing two sets of glasses for awhile. Might be worth looking into.
“A lot of time you get it all wired up and realize you forgot the bushing .. then you gotta take it all apart” ….yea , take it apart … no problem… *proceeds to cut plastic bushing and wrap it around connector threads leaving the cut side hidden yo the back* didn’t see any noalox added to the aluminum ends before terminating.
I get into agricultural every few weeks or so and there’s some crazy stuff going on here in Michigan. Hog barns are especially bad because they are generally wired by non-electricians and are extremely corrosive environments.
Done 1 agricultural job in New York on a greenhouse. It was pretty easy alot of straight EMT conduit runs. The only time you use alot of bends is along the walls or going into the panels. The only problem I saw was mounting devices without damaging the glass.
in canada its #8 and larger (copper or aluminum) requires a bushing 12-906 subrule 2. Used to be #6 but I guess they changed it. glad I looked this up because i still thought it was #6. nice vid dustin thanks
One more tip for glueing PVC: maintain pressure on the coupling for 15 to 30 seconds. If you just glue and shove it in and move on, the coupling will actually separate a bit while the glue sets. This applies to all glue joints, regardless if it's water or electrical. Twist your joints, then hold them for at least 15 seconds to allow the glue in the joint to relax and set a bit.
In other videos he has talked about the fact that when he's on a job, he works on the part he was paid to do. If he sees other janky stuff even if it's sketchy or against code, it's not his problem.
You don't need plastic bushings on any PVC conduit as stated in the OESC. PVC is deemed safe to use but it can be good practice to put a plastic bushing. Just like if used pvc a ground bushing may be required in order to bond teck cable to a PVC box. Section 12 if you need to find it.
Call up the new owner and make sure he knows he needs to have you come out and add a 240v trailer hookup and 120v convenience outlet off the empty slots in that new panel. No ranch should be without 'em! 😂
And while on the bushing topic. I once had an inspector form the utility company not wanting to release the service on a 6 pack meter base because I didn't put on grounding bushings. The conduit leaving the meter bases where he wanted the "grounding bushing" on was PVC.
By far, this is the absolute best channel for actually understanding code in a way a non-electrician can actually understand. You da man, appreciate you!
Subscribed!! Love your videos ,bro..... While , I'm not technically a Sparky,I deal with a lot of different things in HVAC.... I always learn something here...
Oh cool he’s a pilot and went to a university for it, me too. Me: internally questioning why he didn’t just do that. Dustin: answers “Too much bureaucracy” Me: watching him pull out a code book 8 times in each video I watch. “Umm say that again but slower” Haha. Love learning new things keep em coming.
dustin you should talk to the poco you usually work with and get some seals and their perm aproval to cut meter seals, so theres less calling and aprovals for jobs like this
Years ago ( now retired ) inspector would allow you to install a sealing locknut to keep water out. Would install bathroom silicone caulk to keep water out and does not grow mold. You are very lucky to have power company come out same day. Often waited weeks so did it hot 99% of the time. A few times cut a hot 100 amp service cable to move meter socket from basement to outdoors.
I love these educational videos, thanks for the effort you put in them. From the pro tips to the codes and trivias. Imagine being this guys apprentice, you’d have the best teacher!
You had to cut off the power company's seal to take the meter out. In the case of getting prior approval from the power co, did you re-seal the box with your own seal or did you re-use their seal?
He's a riot. He should be on HGTV. Of course, do it yourself folks wouldn't watch at first and a lot of dads will electrocute themselves when they decide to rewire their own homes, but think of the new business it would drum up for us!
When we were upgraded to 200 amp service, our electricians had NYSEG kits to jumper the meter until NYSEG could come out and install the new meter. I am sure they arranged for this and know them well, but we got free electricity for about a month and a half until NYSEG got out here to install the meter
I have had to make cover plates for boxes that were missing them. Some of the boxes I deal with have been there for a long time, some even have fuses, screw-in, and cartridge.
In Texas to get your master license do you have to go through a program or just take test? I am journeyman plumber now wanting to be certified in electrical as well how does it work? Do I have to start all over as apprentice for electrical company
It is insulated yes, but the male adapter is a harder compound than wire insulation and can still rub a wire raw. Possible two wires at the same time....bad news if that happens.
Do u guys not need to use nolox on aluminum wires to prevent oxidation down south cuz it's not humid down there? Or am I just missing something? It would make sense that cuz the dry air it's not required down there. Up here they'll fail u if no nolox on the aluminum feeders
That rancher who is buying that place or thinks he's a rancher don't know nothing like you said but I worked as an electrician for a private service in other words we had a ground-based transformer was that meter and a big panel and that's for my job started the other side of that big panel that was beyond loads of fun LOL
Two things I did not see. 1- bond to the cabinet, main bonding jumper. Perhaps it was already installed by the manufacturer and not visible in your video. 2- Expansion provision for the PVC conduit that led underground. I guess, depending on where you are in Texas, there might or might not be winter freezing conditions. Even so, I frequently see separated conduits here in Southern California due to settlement. Kudos on the threaded hub at the top of your new panel, required (among other possibilities) when there is a concentric KO. I was waiting to see that.
NEC 300.4(G) Insulated Fitting...."Where raceways contain 4 AWG or larger insulated circuit conductors, and these conductors enter a cabinet, a box, an enclosure, or a raceway, the conductors shall be protected by an identified fitting providing a smoothly rounded insulating surface..."
I pull meters all the time. I also disconnect from the service drop, put the new service in and then temporarily hook it back up and pop the meter back in. after its inspected the power company will come by in a few weeks or so and put their crimp connectors on the splices and put a new lock tag on the meter
That's funny... I actually had to make a dead front for a small panel like this one about 5 months ago.. we couldn't find one that fit so I took 2 dead fronts and made my own Frankenstein dead front.. it looked pretty good too and I painted it after I welded it up.. I drilled my own holes and had to cut out a slot for the switch on the main breaker that fed the panel.. its very common in the factories that I work in for older panels to have home made covers and doors..
The nails worked fine, y'all! Our city code/inspectors require bushings for AWG & conduit sizes much lower than the NEC reqs. and... where do you get higher temp rated bushings for fancy feeders?
I would have used 1/4" lag bolts along with fender washers to mount disconnect. At services where I used PVC for srrvice always installed plastic bushings. They are very cheap and every ince in awhile some local yoka inspector would bust your balls if you did not install them.
Conduit Bushings 300.4 (G) addresses conductors 4 AWG and larger. 342.46 doesn't specify a trade size for IMC. 344.46 " " RMC - "A bushing must be used at the point where the conduit goes into a box, fitting, or other enclosure. This is to protect the wire. An exception is made if protection is provided with the box or fitting." 352.46" " PVC "A bushing must be used at the point where the conduit goes into a box or fitting unless protection is provided in the box or fitting." Why didnt you use no lux on those aluminum conductors? Yes i know code doesnt say you need too.
No Al (uminum) Ox(idation) I'm more shocked he didn't use torque wrench, it's hard to get this lugs on 00 or whatever to mfg specs. No way those were tight enough.
With PVC if you glue both sides your going to get a puddle at the end of the push and it will be difficult to clean. So if you do both sides, I do a very light glue on the female end. There’s another problem either way, is if you have a tone of glue you kind of push a tiny amount of PVC melt, the two pipes will want to spread apart, so depending how much glue you need to hold them together at least a couple of minutes.
Some panel manufacturers have shear lugs that are designed to strip once you reach the desired torque. Once they strip it’s almost impossible to get them any tighter unless you really try!
Bro you’re just a young Mike Holt you’re an amazing teacher! Thank you for your knowledge you’ve learned so much more from you and I look forward to more videos!
cant believe that 90 is sticking out of the ground, what is that pipe only 6 inches deep ? and around here we would use a slip joint in case the pole settled, or vice versa.
I really love the style of this video; as someone still wondering if I really should dive into the electrical field, I find these "day-in-the-life" videos to be a good indicator of what I might run into in daily life (~40 years is a long time to spend doing something you hate!), and the tips interspersed throughout the video break it up quite nicely. Thanks as always man!
Enjoyed video, showing work in the field, pro tips and code reference was nice. Guys out here working are just robots these days and don't know the why, how it works, just copy and paste. Keep More videos like this one coming
I recently installed one too. Yeah it’s kind of dumb that they aren’t already installed in the panel, but I have to admit I was impressed about how many there were. I was doing a panel swap (fuses to breakers) so naturally the bond wires were short. But with all those little bond bars I made out fine placing them wherever I needed. I also like the Homeline neutral bars being long and on both sides, similar to C-Ham and Siemens panels. That is a definite advantage over our SqD panels with all the fucking neutrals at the top. Talk about a way to ugly up a panel in a hurry !!!
Should have put new No-Alox back on the conductors before putting them back into the lugs. Wouldn't hurt to retorque conductors after you bend them into place. After talking about the original installer only putting nails through the panel, you didn't do much better with screws, I would have put up a couple pieces of strut, or atleast use some lag bolts. Much respect though its cool seeing another master electrition work and how they do things in their area.
@@thomasmarable6818 no alox isn't required but it is good practice to not be a hack and put it on their. Like I said I would use lag bolts to either hold the strut to the pole or at minimum secure the panel to the pole. I like quality work going above and beyond the code. If you're not willing to put on No-Alox, no telling what other shit you cut corners on.
@@B_EIMON do you even electrician? Nolax is made for situation where you have dissimilar metals or lugs that are not rated for aluminum conductors. In 2021 almost any panel you buy or any lug you buy for that matter will no doubt be rated for copper and aluminum. Also the construction of the aluminum wire itself is very different than before and frankly you just don’t need the nolax it’s not a hack to skip that step.
@@TannerEskew it helps with many things reduces oxidation, corrosion, prevents galling and seizing. You assume everything you work on is going to be new. Next time you strip out a lug trying to tighten or loosen something because the guy in front of you didn't do it, you'll realize. You do what you want, we can agree to disagree thats, fine partner.
@@B_EIMON I don’t disagree with you at all actually. I believe there is a time a place for it. Personally I am a service electrician and I promise I’ve seen the worst of the worst. I use nolax all the time. In fact, almost everyday with all the old crap I work on. All I’m suggesting is that in this situation he is not hacking or doing anything wrong by not using nolax!
There's no code for this necessarily, but when I worked in wireless telecom it was not only required per T-mobile that every conduit feeding into a box had to have a plastic bushing. They have standards for telecom.....but then each "market" gets to make up their own standards, which might be slightly different or reqire using entirely different materials arbitrarily 😂😂
That's awesome that you took pilot training! I just got signed off TODAY for my Instrument Checkride :D! I only fly recreationally and totally feel you about the rigors of going the commercial pilot route. I own my own electrical contracting business in VA and I would much rather work to support my flying than the other way around...
(~15:30) I wish flight school wasn't SO damn expensive. It's something like $30,000 just to get the Commercial certification. Way too much, to just become the lowliest member on any airline's "totem pole"
Was that a torque-Allen wrench tightening the main-lugs? Haha. Was this made post 2020? SMH... great video! Love the service stuff! That rancher was probably selling to some asshole from California for four times what the property is worth.
That makes sense because You don’t really need that ground bar on a main service panel since neutral and ground are bonded so it makes sense that they would include it on the main lug panel because typically main lug panels are sub panels where neutral and ground would be separated
In Chicago, the electricians always popping meters in and out. Many customers are changing from 100 amp to 200 amp so it's impossible to not remove the meters and you are also working with life power..for the riser/service reconnections. We never call the utility companies...if you did you'd never finish what you started. Also, it's better to use screws with round smooth finish inside panels. Furthermore, you should have a ground ground rod by that panel, right? You probably have one it's just hard to see from the video. Like always, thanks for the video!
I see aluminum conductors. Could you please mention if you used naolox on terminal. Thanks brother. Love your content. I have my Master Electrician examn in a few months. Been a journeyman for 2.5 years. Residential is my expertise. New and remodeling construction.
Service panels don't come with ground bars most of the time because the grounds and neutrals land at the same place so what's the point of having separate bars
Those conductors looked like they were aluminum conductors. Should you not be using Noalox antioxidant on the conductors and the lugs? That's what I was taught when I was a wee little apprentice 10 years ago.
Not saying anything is wrong but No Deox really I understand the lugs maybe for AL/CU but it's outside. Just saying and I would have put a backer board on. But that's just me
Really enjoyed this vid, noticed edit cuts after terminating the Mains Conductors , I see you hand tightened the Lugs, but did you torque the Lugs to spec? and I noticed no Noalox used. Could you explain why? Thanks again for the insight!
I enjoy this because I used to work with a Licensed Electrician for a Master back in the mid 90s! In Florida. I have been retired from Publix Market for 12 yrs as a Baker. Did some side jobs for friends and my own work.
I test young people for their journeyman's electrical license (the practical portion,) part of the test is using a torque wrench to tighten the wire lugs instead of Armstrong tighting.
If I could just do this EVERY DAY I'd be the happiest electrician in NJ. I'm not saying this is an easy job but with a lot of experience my eyes lights up cause my checking account's about to get a boost.
All electrical connections shall be properly torqued, with the proper tool per manufacturer's specifications. Put that code in your book, master Electrician breaking electrical code.
SQD sucks about not giving out ground bars in the the panels off the shelf. The are getting a bit better. Now they have some interiors that are factory installed when the ending of the panel part # is PGC. G stands for ground bar. What else I hate is the smaller supply houses still can't get their hands on single pole 15s, 20, 2 pole 30s, and 100s. And don't get me started with the resin boxes. I feel like I haven't seen a 2 gang nailer in almost a year!
“Open up your code books”
Me : *driving* “sure thang boss!”
You shouldn't be driving and looking at the video. It violates code number.......
Don’t forget eye protection. Life is hard. Life is harder if your blind.
Electrician for 10 years. Easy day removing troffer fixtures. Removed a ceiling tie wire and while holding it the wire turned and penetrated my eye. I'm sitting here very lucky. I will never forget this close call and wear eye protection every time.
Gayy
Had a meter pan break and cross phase thank God I had glasses on and only got some metal in my forehead
@@affinity3281 man I never thought about a wire doing that. Especially after jobs I do, since I cut my ends sharp. Thanks. Always wear glasses when I use power tools, now I'll do it when I mess with overhead wires too. I can totally see that happening really easy, just never thought about it. Thanks.
Got a metal filing in my eye unibiting a hole overhead. Still dont wear glasses always but definitly more often. Maybe more often after reading these comments.
I always wear safety glasses, even over my regular, spec's, when ,pulling a service meter, & Installing, After a, power company, guy, told me about why, his face was "POCK-MARKED", a meter exploded on him. In those days they were glass, but plastic does, damage to eyes also, Maybe a shield, also, been Trade 50 years.
I know they make safety glass based on your prescription nowadays if you don't want to wear two sets of glasses. I was getting frustrated wearing two sets of glasses for awhile. Might be worth looking into.
Wire size 4 AWG or larger requires it. And I believe it’s 300.4 G
I feel your frustration Dustin! Square D needs to provide ground bars in their panels!
Hell yea they do and I love square d panels & breakers
We need more of these I love the service calls. Second one here.
“A lot of time you get it all wired up and realize you forgot the bushing .. then you gotta take it all apart” ….yea , take it apart … no problem… *proceeds to cut plastic bushing and wrap it around connector threads leaving the cut side hidden yo the back*
didn’t see any noalox added to the aluminum ends before terminating.
I have a friend who had intermediate electric problems on his ranch. Turns out his bull hit his power pole a few times.
I always keep reducing washers, ground bars, and split bushings on my van. (The bushings that can be put on afterwards because I always forget)
I appreciate the more colorful language - that's just how it is on a jobsite lol
Fuckin A lol
@@raymondwallace1031 Ever get a case of the mondays? haha
@@nathanmiller9711 naw... Hell naw. I believe you'd get your ass kicked for saying something like that
@@raymondwallace1031 corporate accounts, Nina speaking. Just a moment…
@@nathanmiller9711 why should I change my name? He’s the one that sucks
I get into agricultural every few weeks or so and there’s some crazy stuff going on here in Michigan. Hog barns are especially bad because they are generally wired by non-electricians and are extremely corrosive environments.
Done 1 agricultural job in New York on a greenhouse. It was pretty easy alot of straight EMT conduit runs. The only time you use alot of bends is along the walls or going into the panels. The only problem I saw was mounting devices without damaging the glass.
10:10 What if you're not actually an electrician and therefore don't have codebooks? What if you just enjoy watching real electricians on UA-cam?
It's a good Teaching policy for the guys that are learning...
Library has em and they are ebooks I think
Then continue to watch and enjoy, just don't start thinking you can work on live equipment because you watched a video, imho.
in canada its #8 and larger (copper or aluminum) requires a bushing 12-906 subrule 2. Used to be #6 but I guess they changed it. glad I looked this up because i still thought it was #6. nice vid dustin thanks
One more tip for glueing PVC: maintain pressure on the coupling for 15 to 30 seconds.
If you just glue and shove it in and move on, the coupling will actually separate a bit while the glue sets.
This applies to all glue joints, regardless if it's water or electrical.
Twist your joints, then hold them for at least 15 seconds to allow the glue in the joint to relax and set a bit.
Now try doing this with a swarm of bees on the bottom of the panel and to top it off being attacked by massive mosquitoes.
Sounds personal
When you kicked over that unglued sweep 90 did you ever check that there actually was conduit on the other end of it?
I think it's just a stub up for direct burial cable, that's why it was easily moved like that.
spot on, looks like a typical "Texas conduit run", at the "Texas 24 inches" depth. that 90 isn't supposed to be above grade either.
In other videos he has talked about the fact that when he's on a job, he works on the part he was paid to do. If he sees other janky stuff even if it's sketchy or against code, it's not his problem.
You don't need plastic bushings on any PVC conduit as stated in the OESC. PVC is deemed safe to use but it can be good practice to put a plastic bushing. Just like if used pvc a ground bushing may be required in order to bond teck cable to a PVC box. Section 12 if you need to find it.
Call up the new owner and make sure he knows he needs to have you come out and add a 240v trailer hookup and 120v convenience outlet off the empty slots in that new panel. No ranch should be without 'em! 😂
"Umm yeah, we need a trailer hookup. It's an emergency!"
Nec says a gfci dedicated within 3' of the panel.
....now, I'm going to be told to reference the actual code.
And while on the bushing topic. I once had an inspector form the utility company not wanting to release the service on a 6 pack meter base because I didn't put on grounding bushings. The conduit leaving the meter bases where he wanted the "grounding bushing" on was PVC.
lol that's a suit for ya
I am not an electrician and the closest I am to that trade is I work for the cable company. I even know that you can not use pvc to ground.
@@wolfmaster8248 Really. Most of the cable "techs" who've worked on anything I've ever seen would not understand the distinction.
good on ya
-“Now this...”
*munches on chips*
-“This here is something”
Didn’t see any strapping on the conduits? Did I just miss it
The ground can be considered a strap...
By far, this is the absolute best channel for actually understanding code in a way a non-electrician can actually understand. You da man, appreciate you!
Subscribed!!
Love your videos ,bro..... While , I'm not technically a Sparky,I deal with a lot of different things in HVAC.... I always learn something here...
Same her, brotha….
Two nails? Two makes it a professional job, right? 😀
over-engineered more like!
Oh cool he’s a pilot and went to a university for it, me too.
Me: internally questioning why he didn’t just do that.
Dustin: answers “Too much bureaucracy”
Me: watching him pull out a code book 8 times in each video I watch. “Umm say that again but slower”
Haha. Love learning new things keep em coming.
dustin you should talk to the poco you usually work with and get some seals and their perm aproval to cut meter seals, so theres less calling and aprovals for jobs like this
He has them he’s used in many videos . They still want a call and I think this was outside his normal area
@@noahholt482 oh, i didnt know nvm then
Almost a 2nd year apprentice and a ufer ground is confusing me and I was wondering if maybe you could do a vid about them
A ufer is attached to the rebar in the concrete footings. Basically just an upturned chunk of rebar.
Look in 250.66 in your code book.
You should have mentioned the myers hub for coming into the top of an outside panel or disconnect. Around here, I see them missing all the time.
Years ago ( now retired ) inspector would allow you to install a sealing locknut to keep water out. Would install bathroom silicone caulk to keep water out and does not grow mold. You are very lucky to have power company come out same day. Often waited weeks so did it hot 99% of the time. A few times cut a hot 100 amp service cable to move meter socket from basement to outdoors.
I love these educational videos, thanks for the effort you put in them. From the pro tips to the codes and trivias. Imagine being this guys apprentice, you’d have the best teacher!
This guy like Clark Kent. Thought the channel switched hosts, until he put his hat on backwards and black tee.
You had to cut off the power company's seal to take the meter out. In the case of getting prior approval from the power co, did you re-seal the box with your own seal or did you re-use their seal?
Would a slip sleeve make this easier?
Love the laughtrack while you're hamming it up. Hilarious.
He's a riot.
He should be on HGTV. Of course, do it yourself folks wouldn't watch at first and a lot of dads will electrocute themselves when they decide to rewire their own homes, but think of the new business it would drum up for us!
When we were upgraded to 200 amp service, our electricians had NYSEG kits to jumper the meter until NYSEG could come out and install the new meter. I am sure they arranged for this and know them well, but we got free electricity for about a month and a half until NYSEG got out here to install the meter
35 yrs in the biz..... retired and I'm here ......LOL
Fixin to B servce/panel change out season is a hurricane comes through, It's sad Being a Electrician waiting for storms to come along.
I wonder how many inspectors actually check if the temp rating of the bushing is the same as the conductor insulation.
They should only manufacture bushings that are rated for 105 degree C. For years only purchased T&B bushings.
I have had to make cover plates for boxes that were missing them. Some of the boxes I deal with have been there for a long time, some even have fuses, screw-in, and cartridge.
Noalox works good on aluminum conductors. No clamp needed on lower (feeder) conduit?
In Texas to get your master license do you have to go through a program or just take test? I am journeyman plumber now wanting to be certified in electrical as well how does it work? Do I have to start all over as apprentice for electrical company
Hey man, you're a good teacher and even better at editing! Thanks.
Why plastic bushings on a PVC male adapter? Isn't the MA providing the insulating surface?
It is insulated yes, but the male adapter is a harder compound than wire insulation and can still rub a wire raw. Possible two wires at the same time....bad news if that happens.
Do u guys not need to use nolox on aluminum wires to prevent oxidation down south cuz it's not humid down there? Or am I just missing something? It would make sense that cuz the dry air it's not required down there. Up here they'll fail u if no nolox on the aluminum feeders
Hey Dustin! Quick question and im not sure if someone already asked this, but how come you didnt strap down the PVC at all?
That rancher who is buying that place or thinks he's a rancher don't know nothing like you said but I worked as an electrician for a private service in other words we had a ground-based transformer was that meter and a big panel and that's for my job started the other side of that big panel that was beyond loads of fun LOL
People don't realize how much driving is involved when you're an electrician
@211 why can't i?
300.4 G #4 or larger needs bushing
Thanks Mike holt haha
Great video Dustin keep it up
Two things I did not see. 1- bond to the cabinet, main bonding jumper. Perhaps it was already installed by the manufacturer and not visible in your video. 2- Expansion provision for the PVC conduit that led underground. I guess, depending on where you are in Texas, there might or might not be winter freezing conditions. Even so, I frequently see separated conduits here in Southern California due to settlement. Kudos on the threaded hub at the top of your new panel, required (among other possibilities) when there is a concentric KO. I was waiting to see that.
I don't believe that was watertight
heres a tip from the frost belt should try using a frost/slip expansion coupling lol get it close than just slide it up or down done. lol
It's local code now to use the slip couplings in the section of Texas i work in.
not just a frost thing: slopes & rain move things around.
Awesome wish I became an apprentice right out of high school
NEC 300.4(G) Insulated Fitting...."Where raceways contain 4 AWG or larger insulated circuit conductors, and these conductors enter a cabinet, a box, an enclosure, or a raceway, the conductors shall be protected by an identified fitting providing a smoothly rounded insulating surface..."
I pull meters all the time. I also disconnect from the service drop, put the new service in and then temporarily hook it back up and pop the meter back in. after its inspected the power company will come by in a few weeks or so and put their crimp connectors on the splices and put a new lock tag on the meter
How or where do you safe this off so it’s safe to work on? Forgive my ignorance…
@@GunterPSparks you have to work on it live, you just have to wear the proper electrical gloves.
That's funny... I actually had to make a dead front for a small panel like this one about 5 months ago.. we couldn't find one that fit so I took 2 dead fronts and made my own Frankenstein dead front.. it looked pretty good too and I painted it after I welded it up.. I drilled my own holes and had to cut out a slot for the switch on the main breaker that fed the panel.. its very common in the factories that I work in for older panels to have home made covers and doors..
What about strapping your conduits once every 1.5m, or 5 ft.
The nails worked fine, y'all! Our city code/inspectors require bushings for AWG & conduit sizes much lower than the NEC reqs.
and... where do you get higher temp rated bushings for fancy feeders?
Just have a handful out varying sizes of reducing washers and ground bussing on hand... 🤷🏻♂️
Certain customer might also have different regulations on using bushings when doing commercial work too.
Certain customers also want you to pull an egc but the emt serves that purpose as well. Lots of things we do are overkill
I would have used 1/4" lag bolts along with fender washers to mount disconnect. At services where I used PVC for srrvice always installed plastic bushings. They are very cheap and every ince in awhile some local yoka inspector would bust your balls if you did not install them.
What...? No torque..? or grease on those wires...? What happen here?
Conduit Bushings
300.4 (G) addresses conductors 4 AWG and larger.
342.46 doesn't specify a trade size for IMC.
344.46 " " RMC - "A bushing must be used at the point where the conduit goes into a box, fitting, or other enclosure. This is to protect the wire. An exception is made if protection is provided with the box or fitting."
352.46" " PVC "A bushing must be used at the point where the conduit goes into a box or fitting unless protection is provided in the box or fitting."
Why didnt you use no lux on those aluminum conductors? Yes i know code doesnt say you need too.
Pedernales is always great to work with. They just ask me to give them a call when done to retag. Video was real nice like!
From one master electrician to another: Love the content! Keep it up.
Surprised you did not use Ox-Gard/NoOx on the Service Entry and Feeder cable lug connections.
No Al (uminum) Ox(idation)
I'm more shocked he didn't use torque wrench, it's hard to get this lugs on 00 or whatever to mfg specs. No way those were tight enough.
@@JP-pf5pz it's very rare to see anyone use a torque wrench. I used to when i worked on blackhawks so i understand the need for them.
I'm surprised at the amount of people who cling on to old factoids for dear life. Technology has moved on, alu wire & lugs are compatible these days.
Aren't you supposed to use de-ox on your aluminum wires?
With PVC if you glue both sides your going to get a puddle at the end of the push and it will be difficult to clean. So if you do both sides, I do a very light glue on the female end. There’s another problem either way, is if you have a tone of glue you kind of push a tiny amount of PVC melt, the two pipes will want to spread apart, so depending how much glue you need to hold them together at least a couple of minutes.
Did you just assume the gender of one of the fittings?
@@FreeAmerican-mm2my Its trans PVC.
Here in the future, aren't we supposed to be using a torque wrench on them thar lugs?
what are you a euro fanny proper tools arent for murican men lol
@@wizard3z868 Busted!
Most experienced electricians know its torque value by feel lol...
Or THINK they do...
Some panel manufacturers have shear lugs that are designed to strip once you reach the desired torque. Once they strip it’s almost impossible to get them any tighter unless you really try!
Cha Ching. $2,000 please. Isn't dat neet?
What t handle hex keys were you using been looking for a good set??
The answer to the trivia is Article 90 (authority having jurisdiction) 🤣
wasn't there a random breaker in that old panel? what happened to that circuit? or was there nothing actually connected to it.
Yes, there was a breaker there. Freeze frame 5:01 and there is nothing connected to it. At 7:46 there are also no other penetrations in the cabinet.
Bro you’re just a young Mike Holt you’re an amazing teacher! Thank you for your knowledge you’ve learned so much more from you and I look forward to more videos!
What about Grounding bushings on the metal entrance conduit and Noalox on the Au feeders and service cables.
cant believe that 90 is sticking out of the ground, what is that pipe only 6 inches deep ? and around here we would use a slip joint in case the pole settled, or vice versa.
and for the same reason we loop the wire in the meter socket, instead of going straight in, so there is slack in case of movement.
No ox-gard?
Or just couldn't see application.
Also was that a typo on the bushings code?
It stated "bosses"?
material science & technology has moved on. aluminum conductors & lug materials are compatible these days.
I really love the style of this video; as someone still wondering if I really should dive into the electrical field, I find these "day-in-the-life" videos to be a good indicator of what I might run into in daily life (~40 years is a long time to spend doing something you hate!), and the tips interspersed throughout the video break it up quite nicely. Thanks as always man!
You def should
Just don't wiz on the electric fence
Enjoyed video, showing work in the field, pro tips and code reference was nice. Guys out here working are just robots these days and don't know the why, how it works, just copy and paste.
Keep More videos like this one coming
You realize showing the public how to do electrical work is ruining electrician wages
Permits and a license electrician still requires
Is there a reason why you didn't use a slip pvc connector on the bottom?
i will have to start using Siemens panels for my customers vs Square D....
wow, an analog meter, I haven't seen one of those in over a decade.
Here in ontario, Schneider panels come with bond bars but they are just in a bag and not installed. So dumb
I recently installed one too. Yeah it’s kind of dumb that they aren’t already installed in the panel, but I have to admit I was impressed about how many there were. I was doing a panel swap (fuses to breakers) so naturally the bond wires were short. But with all those little bond bars I made out fine placing them wherever I needed.
I also like the Homeline neutral bars being long and on both sides, similar to C-Ham and Siemens panels. That is a definite advantage over our SqD panels with all the fucking neutrals at the top. Talk about a way to ugly up a panel in a hurry !!!
Article 300.4 (G) "Insulated Fittings" are required for raceways containing 4 awg or larger.
Should have put new No-Alox back on the conductors before putting them back into the lugs. Wouldn't hurt to retorque conductors after you bend them into place. After talking about the original installer only putting nails through the panel, you didn't do much better with screws, I would have put up a couple pieces of strut, or atleast use some lag bolts. Much respect though its cool seeing another master electrition work and how they do things in their area.
No-Alox not required and how would you mount the strut to the pole, a screw and washer so why waste the time
@@thomasmarable6818 no alox isn't required but it is good practice to not be a hack and put it on their. Like I said I would use lag bolts to either hold the strut to the pole or at minimum secure the panel to the pole. I like quality work going above and beyond the code. If you're not willing to put on No-Alox, no telling what other shit you cut corners on.
@@B_EIMON do you even electrician? Nolax is made for situation where you have dissimilar metals or lugs that are not rated for aluminum conductors. In 2021 almost any panel you buy or any lug you buy for that matter will no doubt be rated for copper and aluminum. Also the construction of the aluminum wire itself is very different than before and frankly you just don’t need the nolax it’s not a hack to skip that step.
@@TannerEskew it helps with many things reduces oxidation, corrosion, prevents galling and seizing. You assume everything you work on is going to be new. Next time you strip out a lug trying to tighten or loosen something because the guy in front of you didn't do it, you'll realize. You do what you want, we can agree to disagree thats, fine partner.
@@B_EIMON I don’t disagree with you at all actually. I believe there is a time a place for it. Personally I am a service electrician and I promise I’ve seen the worst of the worst. I use nolax all the time. In fact, almost everyday with all the old crap I work on. All I’m suggesting is that in this situation he is not hacking or doing anything wrong by not using nolax!
NEC 2017 300.4(G) 4 AWG or larger
There's no code for this necessarily, but when I worked in wireless telecom it was not only required per T-mobile that every conduit feeding into a box had to have a plastic bushing. They have standards for telecom.....but then each "market" gets to make up their own standards, which might be slightly different or reqire using entirely different materials arbitrarily 😂😂
That's awesome that you took pilot training! I just got signed off TODAY for my Instrument Checkride :D! I only fly recreationally and totally feel you about the rigors of going the commercial pilot route. I own my own electrical contracting business in VA and I would much rather work to support my flying than the other way around...
(~15:30) I wish flight school wasn't SO damn expensive.
It's something like $30,000 just to get the Commercial certification. Way too much, to just become the lowliest member on any airline's "totem pole"
Was that a torque-Allen wrench tightening the main-lugs? Haha. Was this made post 2020? SMH... great video! Love the service stuff! That rancher was probably selling to some asshole from California for four times what the property is worth.
Dustin usually a square d main lug panel comes with a ground bar but main breaker does not. That’s been my experience.
That makes sense because You don’t really need that ground bar on a main service panel since neutral and ground are bonded so it makes sense that they would include it on the main lug panel because typically main lug panels are sub panels where neutral and ground would be separated
In Chicago, the electricians always popping meters in and out. Many customers are changing from 100 amp to 200 amp so it's impossible to not remove the meters and you are also working with life power..for the riser/service reconnections. We never call the utility companies...if you did you'd never finish what you started.
Also, it's better to use screws with round smooth finish inside panels.
Furthermore, you should have a ground ground rod by that panel, right? You probably have one it's just hard to see from the video.
Like always, thanks for the video!
I see aluminum conductors. Could you please mention if you used naolox on terminal. Thanks brother. Love your content. I have my Master Electrician examn in a few months. Been a journeyman for 2.5 years. Residential is my expertise. New and remodeling construction.
Service panels don't come with ground bars most of the time because the grounds and neutrals land at the same place so what's the point of having separate bars
Those conductors looked like they were aluminum conductors. Should you not be using Noalox antioxidant on the conductors and the lugs? That's what I was taught when I was a wee little apprentice 10 years ago.
Not saying anything is wrong but No Deox really I understand the lugs maybe for AL/CU but it's outside. Just saying and I would have put a backer board on. But that's just me
Really enjoyed this vid, noticed edit cuts after terminating the Mains Conductors , I see you hand tightened the Lugs, but did you torque the Lugs to spec? and I noticed no Noalox used. Could you explain why? Thanks again for the insight!
I enjoy this because I used to work with a Licensed Electrician for a Master back in the mid 90s! In Florida. I have been retired from Publix Market for 12 yrs as a Baker. Did some side jobs for friends and my own work.
I test young people for their journeyman's electrical license (the practical portion,) part of the test is using a torque wrench to tighten the wire lugs instead of Armstrong tighting.
If I could just do this EVERY DAY I'd be the happiest electrician in NJ. I'm not saying this is an easy job but with a lot of experience my eyes lights up cause my checking account's about to get a boost.
Dustin.....there's something about you that ain't Right, Wright, Rite, Write....well let others figure it out! Lol
All electrical connections shall be properly torqued, with the proper tool per manufacturer's specifications. Put that code in your book, master Electrician breaking electrical code.
SQD sucks about not giving out ground bars in the the panels off the shelf. The are getting a bit better. Now they have some interiors that are factory installed when the ending of the panel part # is PGC. G stands for ground bar. What else I hate is the smaller supply houses still can't get their hands on single pole 15s, 20, 2 pole 30s, and 100s. And don't get me started with the resin boxes. I feel like I haven't seen a 2 gang nailer in almost a year!