Just received mine, same problem. It is definitelly the sensor. Its just crab. The circuit is working that way: The mainboard sensor input is getting triggered if it is pulled to GND (at least less than 0.3 - 0.5V). Most of the sensors are not going that low. Mine for instance gave me 0.8V even if the LED was activated. The main board then does not recognize the signal. If you get one sensor which works around 0.5V then it might get recognized for some times and then not again (floating signal). There are two fixes for that. First, buy a different one. There are different all metal sensors availabe in the net. Just make sure you get the right one. It has to be NPN NO 8mm. You have to fabricate a new holder for that. The second solution is to implement a small electronic circuit into the sensor line. It consists of 2 NPN transistors and 4 resistors. This circuit grounds the mainboard input with real 0V. That worked out for me. If you need a sketch of that circuit, you can shoot me a private message under werner[dot]greipl[at]t[minus]online[dot]de
please lubricate your z! Tie the bottom of your z axis together with a belt and gears. This will help fix your z axis issues. But I recommend a new board like a duet, this will solve most of this machines issues. also drill the sensor mounting holes so it will lower to 2mm above the bed with the nozzle touching.
Looking at this on my phone, I think your sensor may be physically set to low, it needs to be a couple of mm above the print nozzle, yours looks level ?? My fix for the Z axis issue ? I installed two upside down anti lash units from Ebay on top of the z bars and above the existing brass z screw guides (which are now upside down) underneath & used their screw holes as well. I tighten these just to give enough resistance to stop the z screws moving every time the stepper motors dis/engage or I breathe on the printing plate!!! There is no way I could get an accurate level with the bed moving every time I used it before I did the mod. It would probably be better to tie the z screws together with gears etc, but this was a simple & quick mod for me. I regularly grease every moving part with standard car grease which makes everything smooth to run.
So I spent an entire day trying to get this thing to z offset correctly and actually turn out a decent print. I did manage to stop it from crashing into the bed however now it will not home the z close enough to the bed to get a good first layer. My fix is buying a skr 1.4 turbo with 2209 drivers and replace the board on the printer, install marlin and run the printer with a raspberry pin using octoprint
Hello. The solution is simple you should change the level sensor to (8mm). For more information you should visit the website m.tronxyonline.com/ because the support at tronxy.com never answers.
Hello @@asterioschatzitzivas6332 , Thanks for your reply! the label on my proximity sensor shows already 'Sn: 8 mm'... and doesn't work properly with this one! what type of sensor did you have before when you purchased 3d printer?
@@michaelcatania6145 I had an 4mm sensor and i changed and I installed an 8mm sensor and also I changed the table surface. I take and Square iron table 50cm*50cm*1.5mm
@@asterioschatzitzivas6332 hello again! just to inform you and others people who could have same problem... After I tried a couple new proximity sensor I definitely solved by mounting a ZHONGDE SN04-N 6-36V NPN NO 300mA sensor (green case) and game over...
Hello asterious i have bought one and same the problem with you...i have contact the tronxy sopport and they give me the the solution...the auto bed leveling sensor is broken...you need tell them they will give to you the one free...the problem just the auto bed leveling sensor...just that
Still no fix for this? I will ask in the Facebook group and see if anyone there knows. Mine is doing exactly the same, bought March 2020. Testing the voltage on the plug end of the sensor (at box on back of printer) between G and S shows 12.7v when bed is level switch is off and 0.7v when activated, so appears the sensor is working correctly. Could be something firmware wise.
I think is the firmware or the mainboard or the combination of them. I didn't fix it but the banggood sent me a new printer.If i face the same problem I will buy a new mainboard from tronxy and they will send me the correct firmware.
@@asterioschatzitzivas6332 Thank you very much for answering! It is very discouraging after so much work to be stopped by this sensor. Could you forward me the firmware you received to ¨smf.jeep.wrangler@gmail.com¨? I checked the sensor and it seems to work OK, it always get red, and the signal goes from 12V to 0V instantly (checked in the connection box in the back). However, the mainboard not always detects this change.
@@jeepsmf1128 i just got this printer and finished putting it together. i have the same exact issue but i can tell the sensor is working because the red light comes on but it doesn't stop moving the z axis for like 5 seconds and then it totally makes the bed unlevel. can you send me the firmware they sent you please. they have been horrible in responding to me. "waynecto@gmail.com"
sono d'accordo. Ma per farla andare decentemente devi faticare. Problemi di livellamento soprattutto. Non memorizza lo z-offest neanche morto. Poi livellare un piano così grande è impossibile senza un sistema di autolivellamento. Per riuscire a fare qualcosa, io faccio fare ad ogni stampa almeno 15 righe di brim a 5mm\secondo, poi man mano che le righe si fanno aggiusto le viti del piano in modo da avere uno spessore costante. Le prime 3-5 righe vengono una merda, poi se ci fai l'occhio alla fine si livella.
Just received mine, same problem. It is definitelly the sensor. Its just crab. The circuit is working that way: The mainboard sensor input is getting triggered if it is pulled to GND (at least less than 0.3 - 0.5V). Most of the sensors are not going that low. Mine for instance gave me 0.8V even if the LED was activated. The main board then does not recognize the signal. If you get one sensor which works around 0.5V then it might get recognized for some times and then not again (floating signal). There are two fixes for that. First, buy a different one. There are different all metal sensors availabe in the net. Just make sure you get the right one. It has to be NPN NO 8mm. You have to fabricate a new holder for that. The second solution is to implement a small electronic circuit into the sensor line. It consists of 2 NPN transistors and 4 resistors. This circuit grounds the mainboard input with real 0V. That worked out for me. If you need a sketch of that circuit, you can shoot me a private message under werner[dot]greipl[at]t[minus]online[dot]de
please lubricate your z! Tie the bottom of your z axis together with a belt and gears. This will help fix your z axis issues. But I recommend a new board like a duet, this will solve most of this machines issues. also drill the sensor mounting holes so it will lower to 2mm above the bed with the nozzle touching.
Bed looks just like mine. Amazing
@@arishema1903 sorry I’m unable to translate this to reply
Looking at this on my phone, I think your sensor may be physically set to low, it needs to be a couple of mm above the print nozzle, yours looks level ??
My fix for the Z axis issue ? I installed two upside down anti lash units from Ebay on top of the z bars and above the existing brass z screw guides (which are now upside down) underneath & used their screw holes as well. I tighten these just to give enough resistance to stop the z screws moving every time the stepper motors dis/engage or I breathe on the printing plate!!!
There is no way I could get an accurate level with the bed moving every time I used it before I did the mod. It would probably be better to tie the z screws together with gears etc, but this was a simple & quick mod for me. I regularly grease every moving part with standard car grease which makes everything smooth to run.
My one has a black sensor maybe a new version works great so far
So I spent an entire day trying to get this thing to z offset correctly and actually turn out a decent print. I did manage to stop it from crashing into the bed however now it will not home the z close enough to the bed to get a good first layer.
My fix is buying a skr 1.4 turbo with 2209 drivers and replace the board on the printer, install marlin and run the printer with a raspberry pin using octoprint
I have exactly the same problem (but i do not have that loud z-squeeking as i lubricated everything) :-(
Did you get any help?
What is the solution to fix it?
No, I didn't get any help yet.
If you find a solution please inform me .
Hi I just bought the same printer from bangood and I have the same problem as you, how did you solve it?
The banggood support told me that the leveler is problematic.
Bonjour mon auto level par en diagonal que faut-il faire pour qu'il fonctionne correctement par rapport à l'écran ?
Hi. What solution to fix it? I have the same problem. Can you send me the firmware? Thanks
Hello. The solution is simple you should change the level sensor to (8mm). For more information you should visit the website m.tronxyonline.com/ because the support at tronxy.com never answers.
Hi everybody! me too, same problem with this 3d printer... just need to upload new firmware to fix it? nothing else??
Hello dude. No the only thing you have to change is the level sensor you have to take the 8mm not the 4mm which is already installed
Hello @@asterioschatzitzivas6332 , Thanks for your reply! the label on my proximity sensor shows already 'Sn: 8 mm'... and doesn't work properly with this one!
what type of sensor did you have before when you purchased 3d printer?
@@michaelcatania6145 I had an 4mm sensor and i changed and I installed an 8mm sensor and also I changed the table surface. I take and Square iron table 50cm*50cm*1.5mm
@@asterioschatzitzivas6332 hello again! just to inform you and others people who could have same problem... After I tried a couple new proximity sensor I definitely solved by mounting a ZHONGDE SN04-N 6-36V NPN NO 300mA sensor (green case) and game over...
Hello asterious i have bought one and same the problem with you...i have contact the tronxy sopport and they give me the the solution...the auto bed leveling sensor is broken...you need tell them they will give to you the one free...the problem just the auto bed leveling sensor...just that
Hallo, I have the same behaviour. I'll try to follow your suggestion. Can you tell us your experience?
Qualcuno ha il link per poter comprare un sensore di livellamento funzionante per questa merda di stampante?
датчик авто уровня поменять..
Still no fix for this? I will ask in the Facebook group and see if anyone there knows. Mine is doing exactly the same, bought March 2020. Testing the voltage on the plug end of the sensor (at box on back of printer) between G and S shows 12.7v when bed is level switch is off and 0.7v when activated, so appears the sensor is working correctly. Could be something firmware wise.
I think is the firmware or the mainboard or the combination of them. I didn't fix it but the banggood sent me a new printer.If i face the same problem I will buy a new mainboard from tronxy and they will send me the correct firmware.
@@asterioschatzitzivas6332 Any news on this? I have the same problem?
@@jeepsmf1128 yes I fixed it. I changed the leveler sensor (8mm) and I spoke with the tronxy support and they sent me new firmware.
@@asterioschatzitzivas6332 Thank you very much for answering! It is very discouraging after so much work to be stopped by this sensor.
Could you forward me the firmware you received to ¨smf.jeep.wrangler@gmail.com¨?
I checked the sensor and it seems to work OK, it always get red, and the signal goes from 12V to 0V instantly (checked in the connection box in the back). However, the mainboard not always detects this change.
@@jeepsmf1128 i just got this printer and finished putting it together. i have the same exact issue but i can tell the sensor is working because the red light comes on but it doesn't stop moving the z axis for like 5 seconds and then it totally makes the bed unlevel. can you send me the firmware they sent you please. they have been horrible in responding to me. "waynecto@gmail.com"
Salve a tutti.
Questa stampante ha una marea di problemi e assistenza zero
sono d'accordo. Ma per farla andare decentemente devi faticare. Problemi di livellamento soprattutto. Non memorizza lo z-offest neanche morto. Poi livellare un piano così grande è impossibile senza un sistema di autolivellamento. Per riuscire a fare qualcosa, io faccio fare ad ogni stampa almeno 15 righe di brim a 5mm\secondo, poi man mano che le righe si fanno aggiusto le viti del piano in modo da avere uno spessore costante. Le prime 3-5 righe vengono una merda, poi se ci fai l'occhio alla fine si livella.