The Craft Is Back In Fashion! (Alaïa FW24)

In today's video I talk about the Alaïa Fall Winter 2024 runway show by Pieter Mulier.
Watching Pieter Mulier’s fall Alaia show made a stupendous emotional and intellectual impact. As his women walked across the mirrored floor of the Paris boutique, their spiraling, sculptural clothes sent a shiver of surprise around the room. You saw a progression of astonishingly innovative techniques, drapes, and silhouettes aligning. The female body and a sophisticated mentality were being connected in a way that felt like a class apart. It was a departure from anything that fashion has been showing in the past season, or indeed, from what Mulier has shown at the house before. Surrounded by the clamor of congratulations, Mulier explained the thread that united everything-both technically and conceptually. From the looped yarns of the deconstructed knitwear that opened the show, to the sculptural topiary-like forms of coats, to the asymmetrical dresses through the multi-layered trousers at the end, “everything is made from one material: merino wool. I’ve been working on it for a year, with only a couple of suppliers. It’s based on circles. It’s simple,” he claimed. “Very simple!” It seems odd to describe something as technically exceptional and mathematically mind-blowing as this collection as “simple,” but you understood what he was getting at. It takes a kind of genius to go so deeply into experimental territory and not lose sight of what they’re saying with it. “It’s moving on. I mean, we did va-va-voom for two-and-a-half years, and I still love it, but it’s not the moment where the world is now,” Mulier said. “ It’s…how can you say it properly? It’s less sexualized, but still sensual.” He captured that sensibility ingeniously. Draped tops fell asymmetrically in elegant folds; minimalist skirts and dresses were looped and wrapped, sarong-like, to show a leg. A black jumpsuit seemed to be made of one continuous piece, gathered into a halter in front, leaving the back bared. Knitted turtleneck tabard sweaters showed slivers of naked torsos in passing. “I love that you’re covered, you’re covered completely-but then you show something.” Up until now, Mulier’s collections have shown the tension and difficulty of paying homage to the letter of Azzedine Alaia’s storied archive. That was a hard road to follow. With this move forward he effectively entered creative territory of his own, while still honoring the lofty principle of making an exceptionally-designed wardrobe for a modern Alaia woman. Mulier’s salutes to Azzedine’s style were there all right-in the snaps he used in a polka-dot pattern; in the woolen puffs on glove-gauntlets; in his use of denim in curviform jeans and of jacquard animal patterns. But with this collection, he’s reached the point where he showed he can fly by his own lights. - VIA VOGUE RUNWAY, WRITTEN BY SARAH MOWER
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[@ac1111d]

Your channel is really valuable. I love learning a lot from your videos. Thank you for the work you do

[@FashionRoadman]

Thanks so much for watching

[@ninab1928]

Would be really interesting to hear your decision making process around which designer pieces you choose to invest in each year. And how you are going about building your collection. Love your perspective 💜

[@yoonytakeuchi]

Thank you for reminding me why McQueen and Galliano were exceptional and that it wasn't because they were the most over-the-top. I had forgotten after all these years!

[@Fran-th7sg]

Love your videos ❤️❤️❤️ feels good to see someone that actually knows about topics and has its own opinions, thank you for existing

[@oranges45681]

I am in disagreement with the perspective shared that Bliss’s work isn’t backed by education and knowledge. Since this is a topic of fashion where creativity lies, I’d like to invite us to be creative with the bounds of ‘education and knowledge’. Bliss and his partner’s work are backed by research to connect the dots and help us understand the context behind the collections. Ayo’s background is in fashion journalism and I believe Bliss’ background is in literature (?) and they have both authentically apply their education to this field in the best way they can. We see this same diverse paths to fashion with fashion designers and love that they bring those to novelty they create in our world.
My thought on Bliss approach is that it meets my needs as human who cares to really understand why people do what they do. In our modern time, I find that we can’t help but make judgement on people’s actions and thoughts even when we don’t have enough information on things such as the context. I can imagine that it is just as hard for designers who mainly have to do this communication through their clothes. Just as we would like people to show some appreciation for the work we do, designers in their own jobs and life have these same needs. Bliss and his partner educate themselves to get to that point of appreciation and fawn over those efforts. I find @Fashion Roadman’s channel being able to meet my need to address the question of ‘so how do we feel about the clothing?’ In terms of its wearability, quality, price etc. He also covers topics on diversity etc. which I’m not sure Bliss and his partner may want to cover in this channel. In my summary, they both have a place in my fashion education and entertainment. Kudos to all three of them.

[@chigal0926]

The one designer that really disappointed me the most is Raf Simmons. I always thought he would be perfect for Calvin Klein. When he finally got the job, he just didn’t get it. His references to Americana was so overdone to me it became almost farcical. I thought maybe he was insulting us. At least that’s how I saw it as an American. He could not capture the understated coolness of Calvin Klein. And I am not saying he needed to copy Klein. From what I read he is from Belgium. That country has produced some of the best minimalist designers.
This designer for Alaia I believe should be given a few seasons to gain his footing. There were a couple of pieces I liked. And using merino wool , the clothes flowed. It just doesn’t seem cohesive.

[@FakherDeNamek]

I might be wrong, but when Alaïa started to work at Dior, the war between France and Algeria was going on, and in that specific context Alaïa wasn't well received because he was an Arab young man and indeed he might not have the right papers

[@johndrew7133]

To That Leo thing. Making the comment over Bliss.
You may be a fashion expert. Who knows. Cuestionable....
Bliss has a different approach to fashion. To much for your tini brain. If you stop watching his videos you'll be OK

[@ljbx8]

now now, don't get too emotional john

[@ac1111d]

@@piercenigel4670i prefer watching other fashion commentaries over him