Alaïa Fall 2024, Moschino's New Creative Director, Kim Kardashian's Balenciaga + More
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- In todays video I review Alaïa's Fall Winter 2024 Runway Collection / Show (by Pieter Mulier). I also talk about Moschino's new creative director Adrian Appiolaza as well as Kim Kardashian's recent and expected return to being an ambassador for Balenciaga.
Watching Pieter Mulier’s fall Alaia show made a stupendous emotional and intellectual impact. As his women walked across the mirrored floor of the Paris boutique, their spiraling, sculptural clothes sent a shiver of surprise around the room. You saw a progression of astonishingly innovative techniques, drapes, and silhouettes aligning. The female body and a sophisticated mentality were being connected in a way that felt like a class apart. It was a departure from anything that fashion has been showing in the past season, or indeed, from what Mulier has shown at the house before. Surrounded by the clamor of congratulations, Mulier explained the thread that united everything-both technically and conceptually. From the looped yarns of the deconstructed knitwear that opened the show, to the sculptural topiary-like forms of coats, to the asymmetrical dresses through the multi-layered trousers at the end, “everything is made from one material: merino wool. I’ve been working on it for a year, with only a couple of suppliers. It’s based on circles. It’s simple,” he claimed. “Very simple!” It seems odd to describe something as technically exceptional and mathematically mind-blowing as this collection as “simple,” but you understood what he was getting at. It takes a kind of genius to go so deeply into experimental territory and not lose sight of what they’re saying with it. “It’s moving on. I mean, we did va-va-voom for two-and-a-half years, and I still love it, but it’s not the moment where the world is now,” Mulier said. “ It’s…how can you say it properly? It’s less sexualized, but still sensual.” He captured that sensibility ingeniously. Draped tops fell asymmetrically in elegant folds; minimalist skirts and dresses were looped and wrapped, sarong-like, to show a leg. A black jumpsuit seemed to be made of one continuous piece, gathered into a halter in front, leaving the back bared. Knitted turtleneck tabard sweaters showed slivers of naked torsos in passing. “I love that you’re covered, you’re covered completely-but then you show something.” Up until now, Mulier’s collections have shown the tension and difficulty of paying homage to the letter of Azzedine Alaia’s storied archive. That was a hard road to follow. With this move forward he effectively entered creative territory of his own, while still honoring the lofty principle of making an exceptionally-designed wardrobe for a modern Alaia woman. Mulier’s salutes to Azzedine’s style were there all right-in the snaps he used in a polka-dot pattern; in the woolen puffs on glove-gauntlets; in his use of denim in curviform jeans and of jacquard animal patterns. But with this collection, he’s reached the point where he showed he can fly by his own lights.
Get ready for another parade of Kim Kardashian in black spandex ensembles. Less than 24 hours after Balenciaga announced the Skims founder had officially joined the luxury house as a brand ambassador, Kardashian appeared in her first campaign in her new role to herald the return of the label’s Le City oversized leather bag, which became a mainstay in the 2000s thanks to supermodel Kate Moss. Over the past few years, Kardashian has played muse to the brand’s most recent creative director, Demna Gvasalia, in everything from mobility-limiting yellow caution tape to spectral head-to-toe black fabric. But for her first official official outing as ambassador, her simple silhouette is classic Kimenciaga: a seamless tube top-pantaleggings ensemble that fits neatly with her own shapewear empire’s aesthetic.
Moschino has named Adrian Appiolaza its new creative director, overseeing women’s, men’s and accessories collections at the Aeffe-owned house, reporting to Aeffe executive chairman Massimo Ferretti. Appiolaza joins Moschino from Loewe, where he spent a decade working under Jonathan Anderson as women’s ready-to-wear design director. Previously, he held the same position at Chloé working under Clare Waight Keller. Appiolaza succeeds Davide Renne, who was hired from Gucci to replace longtime Moschino designer Jeremy Scott but died from a sudden illness before his debut show. He will present his first collection for the house on February 22 at Milan Fashion Week.
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Back in the days I used to tell Americans that we lived in iglos in Scandinavia and I only had access to internet when we drove 4 hours to the nearest town for supplies once a month lol.
I think that's normal that people assume that men in fashion are gay, its is based on real statistics, but the mainstream assumption that women in fashion are all straight is just plain wrong - amount of straight-passing queer women in fashion is astonishing.
@printsphinx25 - move away from playfulness at Moschino!? are you crazy! thats the core of Franco Moschino!
TIMESTAMPS
0:58 - Intro
6:13 - Alaïa Show
25:29 - Thoughts on J.W. Anderson
26:17 - Comparisons to Dilara Fındıkoğlu and McQueen
28:45 - New Wave of Fashion Journalism and Critics
30:14 - Alaïa 3D Printed Dress
42:29 - Closing Thoughts on Alaïa Collection
43:00 - Exciting Designers from Japan, China and Africa
51:35 - Moschino and New Appointment of Creative Director, Adrian Appiolaza after Jeremy Scott Departure
1:02:12- Classism, Racism & More Working In Fashion as POC
1:21:39 - Fashion Roadman After-Hours Lounge (various topics from chat incl. Fashion Roadman UA-cam Channel Lore - for the "Erbans")
* 1:24:10 - Kim Kardashian's Balenciaga Ambassadorship
* 1:53:01 - "Mob Wife Aesthetic"
* 3:16:01 - Fashion Documentary Recommendations
u hit very good points on the mob wife topic and how strang the trend is and the picking of what is associate with it. POC kinda live the same life as a Italian person in the mob our lives are not that far removed. the mob is very much so intoned with the fact that if society is going to holding me back then ill make a way for myself to live. Hits the reason both POC and Italian ppl are very skillful and smart at selling drugs. when u live this type of life u dress a certain kind of way for example where I grew up all the drug dealers never wore small coats in fact everything was oversized it was always a fur or big ass north face kinda coat, and its many reasons for that #1 when u live in a area that gets all four seasons selling drugs in the winter is crazy 🤣🤭
I see what you're trying to say but please don't conflate all POC with organized crime and drug dealing with such a grossly generalized statement. Non-Italian white ppl deal drugs just as much as if not more than anybody else, they're just not the ones going to jail.
That “My England” segment got me weak that “I’m not racist” is when u know some crazy shi is abt to be said
😂😂😂
Says he dates women.... jaws are on the floor....
😂
FYI, Pieter and Matthieu broke up a while ago when they took the Alaia and Bottega jobs respectively
Thanks for the correction, had no idea they weren’t still together 🌟
I completely understand the internet in Nigeria question. As you know in the Uk we’re fed with images every Red nose day and every christmas when we hear ‘do they know its christmas’ and all we see are images of Africa being mud huts, no water for miles and starving shoeless kids. It makes sense why someone young would think there is no internet. Ive been to Africa its massive and I know its not all like that at all but images of starving kids is the first thing which pops into my head when I think of Africa. If you think there is no food & water it makes complete sense why you’d think there is no internet
I love how both of you mentioned buying clothes on klarna and afterpay as being a bad idea that shouldn't be expected or normalized. One year into my luxury addiction, and I am fully maxed out on all of those apps and credit cards. Trends and our tastes change so fast that it was not at all worth it and I don't feel the need to do that in the future. I may have heard this in my "de-influencing" section of youtube, but you are the only luxury youtuber i've heard talk about that. I believe I will cherish and value my luxury items more if I plan and save for them in the future. Thank you for the insight.
Nice to see featuring us in your video :) Thumbs up, Fashion Roadman!
54:01 this audience has got to calm down. Someome literally died. Let Moshino breathe.
!!!
What? live stream? sun not even eppeard yet
The last thirty minutes had me in stitches
Love you guys. So fun!
the pool of POC designers being less than white designers is also a symptom of systematic racism since (as you said) the effects of slavery and colonialism are still impacting the lives of POC today (by our parents forcing us to pursue a traditional career for financial stability) of course it's a big class issue too. individual people being racist or ignorant is only the surface of systematic racism - it's very layered and shows in many forms.
Jeees calm down.
Anglo-Saxons entered the chat
extremely funny the part about new yorkers and how we think of black brits, but when I tell u its a american east cost thing, its the whole east cost. We also keke on the fact that have u ever heard a black guy talk with a boston accent very unusual, I have actually looked this up and a black person from boston said if u ever encounter a black person with a boston accent run FAST😆 🤣😂
😂😂😂
Mediocrity is the word. Unless they are genius.