Відео

You need to take the points plate off and make sure your centrifugal advance weights are advancing at RPM range sometimes they rust to the plate and they don't advance your boat runs like crap 😊😊

just had a 5.0l cobra get the upper unit swapped and we over heated. after putting my old pump back in they are testing tomorrow, if still hot we will have them check the same. Thanks again!😀

This video helped me a ton. Mine was a omc cobra 3.0. The whole gasket and o ring kit and rubber nipples for the pick up tube from Amazon was $43 sierra 18-2671 is the part# for the whole gasket kit

The only thing you skipped out on was is there a switch that connects to shifting lever that wont let engine start if not in nuetral so that boat dont scram into motion while attempting to start.also the wires coming into that red plug can you show what wires go to were on the block and what color it is.i got a used outboard with no control box and wires red plug cut at closest area to motor.no idea what starts what..it has the usaull purple,gray,black n yelllow,green,red,yellow and green i think.any tuturial will help just wanna hear it run.snooky pa.its a 90s johnson 40 off a pontoon boat!!

Thanks I'm old school carburetor styal you make your explanation easy thanks

Very well Mate!

How would you test the coil pack on a 1994 Evinrude v4 88?

I have a 70's Evinrude V4 115hp which uses the same Powerpack 4 ignition module exactly as shown. I had spark at coils 1&3, but not 2&4, so I swapped the corresponding trigger wires and then had spark at 2&4, which eliminated the module as causal. I checked the resistance from the triggers to the terminals with no difference in ohms, so I concluded the flywheel magnet was somehow faulty. I removed the key from the camshaft and reinstalled the flywheel 180 degrees off. Viola, I successfully verified the bad flywheel. After close inspection, I found that there was a crack apparently affecting the magnetic polarity. Replaced and problem solved, no adapter necessary. Thanks for a great video. 😅

Does the boat have to be in forward gear to remove the stern drive before doing this?

Thank you😊

Best video I've found yet, what would cause the kill wire to show current?

I replaced the power pack and still 1.5 on brown wire when connected to power pack. Any ideas?

I had the same power pack issue. I replaced it and the new one tests out the same way. Any ideas?

Great video I have a 1986 6 cylinder 115. It has good spark on all cylinders it starts and idols good all cylinders are firing. When I start to accelerate it begins to misfire and lacks power. If I bring the throttle back to slow it runs fine. Just cleaned the carbs and has new plugs. I have checked the ohmic value on the red red/white and blue blue/white wires and the blue wire is out of speck 32k ohms. According to your video the blue works are for the low speed so I’m a bit confused. Perhaps you could shed some light on this fore me. Much appreciated

i've had more sensors go bad than powerpacs or stators ,actually quite alot of them

Good afternoon, im having a problem with my mercruiser 3.0 with DDIS system. turns off while in the water about 1 hour or so, feels like if you pull the kill switch. i checked my coil, i had no spark and my coil was HOT. once it cools down it turns right on. my RPM tachometer is stuck at 800 rpm, have you ever fixed a boat with this problem?

Good afternoon, im having a problem with my mercruiser 3.0 with DDIS system. turns off while in the water about 1 hour or so, feels like if you pull the kill switch. i checked my coil, i had no spark and my coil was HOT. once it cools down it turns right on. my RPM tachometer is stuck at 800 rpm, have you ever fixed a boat with this problem?

Good afternoon, im having a problem with my mercruiser 3.0 with DDIS system. turns off while in the water about 1 hour or so, feels like if you pull the kill switch. i checked my coil, i had no spark and my coil was HOT. once it cools down it turns right on. my RPM tachometer is stuck at 800 rpm, have you ever fixed a boat with this problem?

Don't worry man keep going continue repeat yourself so you can repeat to us in the same time too thank you😊

What if it has continuity even when open?

Can the high rpm leg be tested just from cranking the engine or does it have to be running in that rpm range?

Does the motor have to be running in the upper rpm range to test that leg or can I do it just from cranking the engine?

Thanks

Thanks so much for these two videos!! I now feel confident that is what my 200 mercury is doing. It will idle but won't speed up under a load.

Great information

Great video

What causes this?

This was explained so simply. I have a very clear understanding of the ignition system of the Mercury in the boat I bought. If it doesn’t start it certainly wont be because of the ignition system.

Great info but coils fail very often actually

Thanks! I understand that perfectly now! I know what’s wrong with my 50 hp mercury

Great video

As a test, Could you apply a 4 VDC pulse to the trigger wire input for a channel/circuit and see if you read zero ohms resistance (or very close) between the stator input and the output lug of the channel/circuit you are applying the 4VDC trigger to? Shouldn’t the SCR close for that Channel or circuit in order to output the stator input voltage to the coil thus firing the spark plug? I am performing this on a Tohatsu CDI and it changes from infinity to reading Megohms of resistance when I apply the trigger to the CDI. This leads me to believe the SCR is likely damaged in the CDI as I would have expected the SCR to read a short when the trigger is applied, and an open when the trigger is removed. Basically it just switches the input from the stator to the output to a coil, right?

Just one thing I wasn’t clear on, if I was to switch any of the trigger wires to the switch pack, that would prove the switch pack is good, or bad, and it would be the trigger that was bad? Do I have that right?

Why is your meter on DC ? Your measuring the AC from stator right ?

I like ball hones . Especially on two stroke outboards to chamfer the ports sharp edges.

Thank you

I’m getting no spark on my 60hp 3cyl mercury nothing all the coil packs not firing.Was thinking that stator went out maybe what do you think? I checked the stop switch and emergency lanyard switch seem fine

do you know which book your working out of?

O my, i hope this is my issue. I am going on a week of wrenching, had he back end split once and off 3x now...lol..1 trip to the dock which was a 10 min fail. Still over heating.. Its fine on muffs..lol i did see i may have a impeller issue. It was new but seems to have melted a bit and the metal cage spun? ps_ i am the 2nd guy taking a stab at fixing this overheating issue 5.0 ho 93 fourwinns

Two thumbs up. Great explanation. 👍👍 Thanks.

at 17:24 you say "If you see 0.3v of power coming through this pack" but how can ANY power come through the pack if you have already disconnected the black/yellow wire from the pack and connected it to your meter? Since you not actually showing the process, maybe this needs more clarification?

LOVE YOUR CHANNEL! THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND HELP! CHEERS!

Great video! Thanks for the helpful info.

When i come to la area im comming to visit

These are not pressurized cooling systems raw water systems dump out riser into exhaust. On pressure fresh water cooling systems i used 6011 arc weld rod made for cast steel pipe welding.

How about showing us the actual repair instead of just bs talking

I would love to say the same thing but I've read other comments on dap's main video and there's people complaining like myself how this is a trash product. I understand it's not silicone however I used it to set a bathroom drain with and the access that squeezed out is still tacky like it's not fully curing and drying and it's been over 48 hours! I have no idea how they claim that it's painable within 30 minutes when this stuff is still tacky to the touch after more than 2 days! And no I did not use a lot at all the bead that squeezed out is no more than a quarter of an inch thick.

Did you use sealant on both sides of the orange seal?

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤

Instead of JB Weld, use windshield adhesive. It stays flexible and is extremely strong. It will not crack.