Installing 12 volt DC outlets and using 12 volt appliances, pumps, tools to save total energy
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
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Great video showing how useful & versatile 12 volt is. JoAnn is still amazed with Kiera's abilities. 👍👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Everyone should have cooking with propane and 12 volt as back up supplies in their homes.
I've done that quite a few times with the fuses, using the spade connectors just like. And what I hear the most is, "You can't do that" or "It's not gonna work," lol and shake my head.
I use the 3/8 spades for MAXI fuses but never exceed 40 amp on them even though they are supposedly rated for 55. You just have to stay under the limits on all mounts of fuses because it is always a weak point to consider. 1/4 spade can handle 28 amps according to NEMA and DOT but I think thats idiot stuff and all those 10 awg pre-made ones are claiming 30 amp and some even claim 40 amps. Avoid them, safe max is 20 amp, bigger draw than that go to AGU, fixed or Maxi. Chrysler had to put in block fuses, recalling crap load of cars in the 1990's to remove 35 amp ATC fuses from cars and put in the Toyo 35 amp blocks.
Happy to see this video. I started watching you and your daughter doing these videos last summer of '23. I had to pause last summer due to a brain tumor that almost eneded my life. Science and good doctors helped me and Im here and continued my journey into solar 12v stuff. My garage is my shop. I agree with what you said about 12v items, yes use thicker wires but once its done, its done, and the availability of 12v appliances is good. Last night I finished watching the miniseries 1883, it reminded me of you and your daughter. Both are fighters. You are good people. Good day, and keep teaching her these extremely valuable skills. I will finish my garage before my time is up, God willing. 😊
Just found your channel. Love the mindset and videos.
But I really like the father - daughter (?) interaction. The skills being shared are invaluable, 100% win.
Stay gold.
Me and my daughter think it's a good thing to show all generations how to do simple things cheap as possible. Using odd things and methods to get safe and usable things was a skill of my grandparents and few share that today.
Informative as usual. I really love that you and your daughter work together to do these videos. That is a great relationship. Keep it strong.
I personally prefer crimping the appropriate gauge ferrule on stranded wire instead of "spinning and tinning" as it doesn't require electricity to do, the connection is more uniform and it's just as strong. I've never had any issues with it and it's made my life a lot easier. I only mention this not because I assume you don't know about ferrules but because in the event I'm wrong perhaps you know why. Great video!
That requires you to use appropriate wire terminals and gauges which I am against. I think if your gonna put cable in the walls, sealed up locations you go 150% plus max draw or don't do it. Using ferrules on that is adding more bulk to your already overkill of gauge. The already large 75 amp terminal block would have had to be the 100 amp model which is HUGE if I used a sleeve or ferrule.
As a trucker I have had most of those 12 volt appliances. They're downside to me is they put cheap plugs on them. Guaranteed after enough/ or time use of the plug will quit working and you'll have to put a high quality one on them. Having an older early '80s van, I have upgraded it's single cigarette lighter to a 25 amp plug. 10 gauge wire, the hardest thing was finding a fuse holder that was also 10 gauge, cost more to ship than to buy. Man I miss radio shack. I also have 12 volt coolers from Koolatron, but they pull too much continuous to keep a battery charge for very long. (4 to 4.5amps) Now my dad's Engal, since it has a compressor can cycle and almost uses no electricity
If you want a best option for cool running super safe 12 volt outlets use the marine sockets.
amzn.to/3XwsnbY Avoid XT plugs, they are horrible at repeated use and tend to short out fast.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Hey John. Found you first on Rumble a few months back and more recently on the Tubes (your channel names different so took a bit to find you believe it or not) been bingewatching your episodes ever since. Very appreciative of all the great info you put out into the ether for all of us new to or revisiting the idea of off grid. I want to donate to your channel for your providing of all the info you have over the years but want to know what route nets you the largest proceeds portion of the donation? I can't stand the percentage take that some of these platforms and sites skim off the top from you creators! You'll be my first donation ever, but I feel that your channel TRULY deserves it because of the cost saving ideas and items you have recommended and tested. I'm working with a shoestring budget to build an off grid homestead and so truly appreciate all the cost effective info and ideas you have provided and all the knowledge you've shared. I've been purchasing material, and components throughout the past few years in preparation and have just recently purchased 40 acres of off grid property that the option to even hook to grid cost as much as the property itself almost, and considering I wanted to break out of the death loop of being coupled to a decaying system and society anyhow I have decided to not even consider connecting to the utility and am going full solar and wind for my power consumption needs. Man, I am super excited, but also a little anxiety ridden in regards to all that has to be done and accomplished in a somewhat short period of time and thats WITH having the knowledge, skill and experience of having worked the trades for the last 25 years and having have been a General Contractor for a bit over 17 of those years. But I will admit that off grid application is a bit foreign to me, especially in the electricity realm (especially considering at one point in time I had graduated a Lineman pre-apprenticship tradeschool) So I'm sure you can appreciate that although MUCH is the same the same is as MUCH is so different! Plus there all the contending with all the nonsense that has been pounded into everybody's head from, as you put it, the "college educated know it all's" clouding the water! Wondering if you possibly have any literature that YOU yourself have produced having to do with your knowledge? Or any that you would recommend? Oh yeah, wanted to also state that the video of you and Kiera explaining how you injured your hand a few months back had me cracking up, hysterically, so hard that all the people around (I was in Home Depot at the time) were looking at me like I was a lunatic😂 It just SO reminded me of myself, as thats EXACTLY how I would have handled a situation like that. Sometimes I wonder HOW it is the world has become SO soft. Every so often there comes a point in time where there is NO better lesson to be taught, than the one thats given with a ridged, 4 knuckled tooth buckler😂 appreciated how you relayed that the receiver of said lesson was taught it "Because someone said something belligerent about my daughter"! All Ive got to say to that is BRAVO good sir! Thanks again for all you've done AND continue to do and thank you in advance for if, and any, tidbits of information or recommendations you could share. Its much, MUCH appreciated. Take Care and keep fighting the good fight!
@@sheepishmclemmingston5550 Your on the right track gathering things as you can. We use KoFi mostly for someone to do direct messaging and get help ko-fi.com/john4kiera .
Often there is things you can use off grid that the "solar retailers" have no intention on telling you. Sellers push thing like solar cable $1.90 a foot verses Low Voltage cable $0.95 a foot all made by the same people with the same materials and specs but one is "labeled solar cable" and the other isn't. Which way to have plenty battery power sellers and promotors say " buy brand X" or like me you can realize that there is a goofy named brand with no advertising budget with identical parts in it for 30% less.
Lots of solutions do not require you follow the narrow path that cost 2X as much.
Love the videos, and i definitely agree with the use of the 12v system for home use. We have 12v fans and heaters. As well as lights and cooking items. We dont have a 12v coffee pot yet. But our system is only 4 years old. 1400w of solar. 400ah of lithium batteries and a 1000W PSW inverter. Has been great for helping get our electric bill down. Thanks for the items list. That will definitely help out in future projects. At my job we use the heating bars in an aluminum box to melt glue. The aluminum box is actually a mixture of a couple metals to help with helping hold the heat transfer better. I dont know any of the specifics about it. But its interesting how it works. Thanks again for the video and hope to continue to see more in the future.
If you want a best option for cool running super safe 12 volt outlets use the marine sockets. amzn.to/3XwsnbY Avoid XT plugs, they are horrible at repeated use and tend to short out fast. I install those plugs on any RV I have worked on for years now. Super safe.
Thank you Mr John Daniel. It blows my mind that you have access to 9kw of solar. Yes the 12volt setup is definitely for me. I saw a few very popular, 4/5 star pure sine inverter. Those invertors the seller recommend using half it's rated capacity. Example 1000watt pure sine inverter they say use less than 400watts. You illustrated the importance of csl( continues service load). I'm exactly on that path. I'm not sure if they checked out your video. May God continue to grace you and your hands for many years to come in Jesus name. Your are worth your weight in Gold 🥇
My entire house for 3+ years is running on SWI-POWER 3200 inverters. amzn.to/4ejGOra My other house is on 2 of them. No problems and they are hard core in starting power and CSL ratings of over 2100 which is over 700 watts more than all the competition plus they are $40 cheaper. SWI Power Xijia Tek is a 19 year old brand, 19 years of getting it right by making it brutally simple. I live with over 4000 amp hours of battery and we still have 1900 watts of solar to add to finish the place. That is on the way! I bought all the 5BB panels I could and avoided the 9BB panels since so many are showing up with bad cells.
Nice kitchen. 😊 I prefer to use ring terminals soldered on, and bolted together. I agree with your wire sizing. I used #4 welding cable when #6 would be enough. I don't like any wires getting warm. I'm still using the wind generator I bought from your link a year and a half ago. It's been through some rough winds around 70 mph last spring, and I think there was a small twister came through here in late May, and the tail fin got ripped in two. I made a new steel one that works fine. Must have been that 96 mph wind, the little 600 watts generator made 1050 watts for a few minutes. The #12 cables got pretty warm at 50 amps, but the funnel passed, and everything was okay. I bought a new oven and had just took brownies out a few minutes ago. I'm using four 24 volt 100 a lithium iron batteries, paralleled with four 31 series lead acid, which is 600 amp hours to my inverter. They always settle out at 26.6 volts. Theyre at 26.5 v right now because I ran the air conditioner until dark. And the two chest freezers are on. The sun is coming up. So Ill get the one tenth of a volt back pretty quickly. If I hadn't just made brownies, I would have gotten really hungry. Those scones looked really good. 😊
We will soon have a full 3 baths and 4 bedrooms in the shop building then the kitchen will be completely redone or not depending on what the ladies here choose. Everyone loves it, I am used to much more cabinets and counterspace though like in the small house here, but small house it is, 900 square feet and the shop/house will be over 2800 square feet contained living space with 1600 being the un-contained part if I can stay healthy.
I jest got say smart kid proud to see parents that are raising their kids rights special with everything going on these days
Take a long look around you, the kids today 35 and under, better than 90% are what the Devil has been waiting for to fill hell to the brim. I got no option but to make mine into something better by myself. I ain't trusting the creators of that 90% hellbound to teach them!
I like things like this. In my "mancave" I have 2 little 12v batteries in parallel, and they're connected to 2 small solar panels. They run an LED light strip, LED fairy lights, a 240v lamp and give me power to operate my reclining leather chair.
I often thought, "why are we using 240v - in the UK - with a transformer to get a 12v DC input?" it seems totally daft.
I did just nearly blow myself up by incorrectly putting a third battery in the mix just now - but I'm tired :D just a really dumb mistake. Luckily I wasn't touching any of the metal at the time..........shook me up a bit though.
Thanks for all the videos, I’m totally off grid learning as I go.
Hi john after watching the video you did on the solar lawnmower i decided to make my golf cart solar and have not plugged it in in 5 months thanks stay safe and God bless
Great job!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 hay buddy can I send you a email I have a bunch of solar evaporate tub water heaters I think 20 sets of 20 tube if we can figure out a way to get a set to you I just don't want the world to see the emails
Yes, send me one to the shop email olympicpowercontrols@yahoo.com
It's in the about info on my channel, so junk mailers try to use it but it's got smart controls and they don't get to spam me.
So cool! Some great points in this video. Tinning will really improve the connection! I like that shrink tube idea as well. I also really like your philosophy with regard to over sizing the wire. That needle nose plier idea, is pretty good to, tho, I think the tube that I have is fairly non-stretchable hehe. I really like your DIY fuse idea. However, I think the one problem that I see, is that these fuses are being placed back in wall box, which makes it much more difficult to track down later. (Like for example, I would hate to have to unscrew the wall box if the fuse blew). It's definitely low cost, but for a house, I would probably go with DC circuit breakers, even with the added expense, just for the convenience... I need to research the NEC requirements with re to the UL side of 12v installs.
Thanks for the cool video.
In the pantry behind the outlets is a mains block with constant on Amp/volt/watt meters so if something fails I have that to check for problems. The fuses in the cover are easy to access and over sizing the wire ( 12 awg recommended, 10 awg used ) means that fail is the assured fuse used on them.
Maybe I should do a Pantry update video, not many folks have a 27 x 17 foot pantry with total climate control to show.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 ah... yea, I asked for a drive in Pantry... looks like I have to wait. :)
When I said to everyone "we do a little prepping" is like saying Elon Musk only builds a few cars.
I wish they made 48 volt dc appliances. It would be so much cheaper to run the wires for low power things, and you could pull enough watts to have full-size appliances.
So true, but seriously what is needed is 24 volt. If you want a best option for cool running super safe 12 volt outlets use the marine sockets. amzn.to/3XwsnbY
I Avoid XT plugs, over rated, and they are horrible at repeated use and tend to short out fast. I would like appliances in 24 volt, Tons of 24 volt. 48 is nice, but then you getting to the skip voltage when you exceed 40+ that is voltage in DC that can arc, travel in wet surfaces easier and over 40 is the leading killer in DC electrocutions even with it being only 6% of the DC choices used. I would lobby to add 24 volt to every home on the planet with 2, 3 or 4 awg mains and 10 or 12 awg drops but then I'd piss off the major utility companies. For 48 volt, get a 7.5 amp/ 30 amp converter amzn.to/4dcQJNC 48 to 12 and put them near your use area so you can make the big long wire run in 14 or 12 awg and have lots of 12V amps so great performance from what you can buy.
You can get fairly cheap 48-12 volt step down converters for golf carts with efficiency that’s better than most inverters (92-95%) or not super expensive but high quality name brand ones for 100-200. 30 amps is the typical max for the cheaper ones but I’ve seen name brand units (500-600 bucks though) that can do 50-70 amps.
Thicker wire is always cheaper and more reliable in the long run than conversion but you can get the basics on 48 volts. They make wide range DC bulbs 10-72 volts etc, 48 volt AC (expensive but you can get a direct solar AC for 1300 bucks), I am pretty sure 48 pumps exist or you could use old piston pumps and belt drive them with 48 volt motors. It’s possible but as the voltage climbs it gets harder to find or require more work arounds. Ceiling fans can be had dc 12/24 but it may be possible to convert an AC BLDC ceiling fan to dc. Depends on the voltage out of the control box.
You can use QO breakers on DC (NOT homeline) up to 48 volts max, not nominal, max. Allegedly they have a “Schneider guarantee” to 125 volts but it’s UL rated to 48. At your own risk, nominal I would stick to 36 volt max if you want that route. Works great on 12 or 24. Very cheap and simple set up. On 48 volts you would need something like midnite breakers, more expensive and not really designed for DC distribution, the breaker boxes they sell are mostly for combiner boxes or 4-5 breakers in a mini. No common bus bar, widening wire out. I don’t know of any other breaker boxes that have the functionality as a DC breaker box like the QO. Giving me the think though, 48 volts is tempting.
Thank you both, great information as usual
very informative as always, I see 12v appliances in my future
As I have said for over 20 years, using DC voltage as you make and store it is great for lots of things. I wish 24 volts DC was the national standard and every home had it in the build but we work with what we have and the Auto/Marine industry gave us 12 volt stuff to use. Make is safe, wire heavy, and always have alternatives if the utility system craps on you.
🇺🇸 Thanks both of you, I agree over size 12v wire because high amps and heat, oversized wire stays cooler fires are no Bueno!
Wire is a spend once item, people need to not be cheap on it. Houses are not spend once if you undersize. I am scared to even think about how many new homes are built with 14/2 romex in them now. It used to be 10/2 to first outlet, 12/2 from there to others. Now its 14/2 the whole dam house and all that to save literally less than 1% of the cost of a house now. Same to me with framing a house, 2x4 verses 2x6 or even 2x8 walls. I am ashamed of the cheapening of quality we now accept. My walls and ceilings are 2x8 Purlin red iron studs with 2x4 cross furring and over R-40 insulation. Total cost was about 10% more upfront. I can cool 1200 foot areas with a 8500 BTU air conditioner while the rest of America can barely cool 350 feet with one. So, what the hell were they saving on!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 14/2 is good for 15amp, 12/2 20amp with safety margin AC… kitchens/Bath is 12ga by code, as well as dedicated circuits, refrigerator, dishwasher disposal, separate circuits…
Biggest problem in past electrical was no grounding or GFCI Plus, overloading circuits past the amperage.. a big no-no still used is any aluminum wired doesn’t belong in any electrical circuit.. copper is far superior. None of that copper clad aluminum wire either.
Straight pure copper or oxygen free copper…
I like the work you do quality affordability without sacrificing safety👍🏻🇺🇸
In a system like this, how many days should the battery drain to % wise before charging back up. Meaning for max reliability getting the most years you can? Don’t want to drain too fast or charge too fast the “C” rating.
Need battery banks to make work, this would be beneficial to all.
We never allow the battery bank to drop below 50% DOD, most all the time its down only 20 to 30%. Many people will say a huge bank is a waste of money, to run them hard. But who's wasting money when their bank is 25% smaller but last 50% as long! We mix Lead and Lithium with excellent results so our depth of discharge is small since the lithium supports the leads voltage and health. If your a small system, say 2500 watts solar 12 volt and your draw is expected to be normal in a day to 40% of that, then your looking at 1100AH of battery to get you there with a 50% plan. If you mix 70/30 Lead Acid with Lithium you do increase that by 10% ( 1200 ah ) but your cost dropped by 15% and your able to recycle the lead acid used for even more total cost reductions. Always use heavy cables from the lead acid to the inverter, then using 1/2 those cable gauge sized wire in the LiFePO4 so its defaulted as voltage support, not amp service. Size your inverter draw ( 280 amps 12 volt for 3000 watt inverter 1/0 gauge close or 2/0 gauge over 4 feet to banks main buss bars ) to be 1/3 of your lead acids immediate ability for how many batteries to have. in that case you would look to use 3 x 280 ah of lead acid ( 840 AH of them ) and about 300 ah of LiFePO4 and 4 AWG cables to them from the main buss bars.
Hope that ramble makes sense.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Yes it’s a brilliant idea to use those two battery types together in combination. For lead acid 50% is 12.2V, does that still stay the same with the lithium battery hooked up to the system? I’m thinking it does that’s why you have that 70/30 combination There ..Real world testing like you’re doing is so valuable.
Edit: for more questions, On the lead acid type is this GC2 deep cycle or GC2 Agm or deep cycle marine Walmart special what would be best used to get that 840ah. Seen great results with 6v bigger selection , 12v harder find, many liking a 2v lead acid for battery backup.. Problem is you need a ton of Ah …twice as much with lead acid compared to LifePO4. But for reliability in cold/hot weather and $ per Ah Lead acid still a good choice. At least for No moving DC power systems where weight is not an issue.
shouldnt the fuses be seen & able to changed outside the cover?
nice setup 👍 its nice to see you working together.
Tinning power cables is a very bad idea. Use ferrules instead. The issue is that with high current you get heat in your connectors. The solder will soften and cause the connection to loosen. This then causes more resistance which causes more heat. Rinse and repeat. At some point the connection will fall apart and possibly start a fire.
I use Ferrules on many jobs where the wire sizing is just equal to the amp limits, but using ferrules over tinning when your wire sizing is over 150%+ the highest possible draw would not have allowed the wires to fit in the sleeves of the terminal blocks. 5.5mm verses 4.5mm.
@@dalefrye7728 Germany for example has outlawed tinning of power cables over 50 years ago for this exact reason.
I'm surprised nobody has picked up on this here.
I've seen many cable joints melted where connections became poor, resistance developed and spiralled higher like you said.
and when that happens, people are lucky if things only melt. this might even be the number 1 cause of fire.
Good to see you guys make a video missed you guys God bless
So much great information glad to see you back i too use 22 volt stuff its great
12V is prepper power!
Exactly. You can't be a real prepper with all your system on voltage over 12 volt. I use all voltages of 12, 24, 36 but no 48 volts. Too many missing ignored safety and cost issues on 48v. 85% of all mine is 12 volt.
I have been mixing directly connected 70/30 Lead Acid with LiFePO4 for 2 years as of Sept 2nd and the results now deserve a soon video. Water usage in the Lead Acid is 40% less, cycles never see under 50% of 12.35 volts, ever. And I am always pulling power 24/7 from my system. Folks do not understand you connect your inverters to Lead Acid, MEGA SURGE HAPPY, your LiFePO4 to your lead acid with smaller cables so the surges get to default to the Lead. The LiFePO4 is voltage support all night. End result, a massive 4830AH - 62,000 watt hour 12 volt bank with a projected lifespan from 6.5 years to no less than 10+. Total savings is only 18% over only LifePO4, but what everyone will miss is the cash in re-investment I will get from 28 GC2 235ah being recycled at that end of use point. $23 x 28 battery recycle is not a loss, almost $650 towards replacing and my plan has worked!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 heck yeah! I run all voltages. 12V stuff is everywhere like you often show and discuss. I like my 12V stuff.
Biggest 12V I have is only 2500Ah of LiFePO4 in my travel trailer.
Create video and good support on the materials.
Great video
Ferrules provide a better connection. I have a combiner box that the mfg tinned the main circuit breaker cables that kept popping as the connections came loose. There are others on yt that recommend against it as well.
If your DC source is adjustable set it to 13.8 volts . They make DC to DC power supplies of various amperage some with fixed 13.8 output , some adjustable all of your equipment will last longer and work better at 13.8 . Better to be a little high then being low . Running at a lower voltage burdens the appliances.
Wow i bought 1 of those convection oven 25 years ago used every day. Hope i doesn't stop. I dont know how i would do with out it .
This is my favorite tube channel now . Been auto truck mechanic truckdriver .
Retired now 30 yrs wrench ing 10 yrs trucking i like 12 volts . Wanting to set up small scale soloer system.
*I'll share a reply I just gave Nate on here about it:* My entire house for 3+ years is running on SWI-POWER 3200 inverters. amzn.to/4ejGOra My other house is on 2 of them. No problems and they are hard core in starting power and CSL ratings of over 2100 which is over 700 watts more than all the competition plus they are $40 cheaper. SWI Power Xijia Tek is a 19 year old brand, 19 years of getting it right by making it brutally simple. I live with over 4000 amp hours of battery and we still have 1900 watts of solar to add to finish the place. That is on the way! I bought all the 5BB panels I could and avoided the 9BB panels since so many are showing up with bad cells.
It's a classic LOL! I already found the exact elements, controls and fan for it and ordered them. As I gathered this was new, a wedding or birthday gift that got put in a closet 50 years ago till the lady passed.
Great video! We’re looking forward to seeing the content featuring our product, as we’ve been waiting since we sent it a while ago. If there are any issues or delays, please let us know and respond to our emails. Thank you:)
Still buying proper solar panels to fit the unit. Very little pay for so much work so fund are used as available. Concrete is made, cables ran but it is not made for frameless which I have many of, we must have specific sizes to make it work balanced and I could not get 6 panels from Ecoworthy at the same time.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 We are not sure if there has been a misunderstanding. As per our original agreement, we provided the stand as discussed, but there was never a commitment to supply solar panels. If you felt the compensation was insufficient, it would have been better to address this upfront.
However, it’s now been quite some time since the product was sent, and we have not received a response to our emails for the past two months. This lack of communication has led us to address our concerns in the comments.
If there are any issues, we would appreciate clear and direct communication going forward. Please reply to us via email so we can resolve this matter together:)
The most important point people are missing out to mention is the power efficiency. Inverting 12v DCto 100 or 220v AC creates a lot of powerloss. Like according to my experience, a 12 volts lamp hooked up directly on a battery will run 10 times more than a 220volt AC lamp of the same output hooked up on the battery using an AC inverter.
he did mention it and i dont think it would be 10x power is power so a 10% hit doesnt equal 10x
@@rookm13 Yes he mentioned. I am talking about commenters.
I actually tried it. 7 watt 12v DC bulb runs for 4 days continuously (40% dimming hours counted) . Where an AC 7 watts bulb with inverter on same battery last only for few hours.
You have conversion losses on average of 18% with inverters. That in itself is huge losses, but when you consider the additional idle power of inverters it can exceed 20%. When you choose to run your homes lighting all on DC power you do so by reducing the waste of standby power and losses too. Consider the fact that if you can run fans, lights, radios, Televisions, security systems ( 12v) and even refrigeration on DC power you also cut the size of inverter needed. 90% of TV, Computers, radios, security cameras, DVD players, and even routers are 12 volt inside, 120 volt to make the 12 volt. Skip the step, increase your outcomes.
Reality!
@@KetansaCreatesArt
unless youre using a low frequency inverter that gap is pretty large, i can connect a 7w led house light to my setup and it will draw 10w from my battery bank through a high frequency inverter which typically has a 10w idle draw.
And the sink has a scrubbing board !
Best thing I did was install DC lighting to my trailer. Not enough juice in the winter to run the inverter.
Add some more solar, and to support volts overnight add a LiFePO4 if your using lead acid.
Sounds like "good luck America" behind the camera
No Way! That guy is a serious crack smoker!
Question, The DC cigarette lighter jacks In your amazon link is rated for 10 amps, but in your video, you mentioned 20 amps. Could you please clarify.
The all metal ones are capable for 20 amps, amzn.to/3XPAf9R but advertised as 15 amps due to California laws that affect us all because their "good for you" grubberment is here to tell us how to live and what to do. Their "hair on fire laws" made the Federal DOT say you can only rate them for max of 15 amps. I get the aluminum wall plate amzn.to/3ztv0mK which cools the metal of the socket real nice , drill it out with a stepper bit amzn.to/4eaEl29 and install those and they are solid as a rock. The plastic and metal combo sold all over is rated at 10 amps, also known as power port grade and good for no more than 12 to 13 amps continuous.
**The ones I have in the video are made from Prime a supplier of RV and Semi truck items, I have about 10 pack of them since I knew that law was happening, they are no longer made sold due to Prime refusing to re-label them a lie to satisfy some crack heads in California. So I included my links to the option of 2 parts you drill out and make yourself.
As far as the heat stick things at the end of the video when he said you could put a small fan on it and it could use less power and heat better than a heater is untrue l. All electric resistance heat is all 100% efficient. So unless you are using a heat pump you cannot get more heat output unless it is using more electricity. the fan will use electricity to blow air, but that is the same heat output as if you used the same wattage light bulb, or heater.
All that to be said if you are using electric resistance heating you will heat just as efficiently (watts used to heat made) if you used light bulbs or motors, so you might as well use some lights to grow some food in the winter and heat your house at the same time.
Them heat stick as you refer is a PTC element. They are over the curve on efficiency due to the design. They take more amps to get to full heat but then settle down to much less power used per BTU than other resistive loads or inductive loads. Positive Temperature Coefficient ( *Positive Temperature Coefficient ("PTC") heaters are specialized heating discs that enable superior heat transfer in a small space. Made from an advanced ceramic material, PTC heaters enable safe, powerful, and energy efficient heat transfer.* ) Using up to 11% less wattage in constant use after exceeding the start surge than other heat producing methods for the same BTU outcome.
_Pelonis Technologies: A 400 watt PTC will consume 430 watts for a few minutes then settle on 360 watts during the entire running period but still produce the 400 watts of rated comparable heat until disconnected_
Hi Јоhn, we've noticed that after sending you the products, we haven't received any response to our emails. Could you please let us know what's going on? Looking forward to your reply.
I looked and looked and can't seem to find your link to the thermal camera
Thanks, and yes I added that on there. Mine is a commercial grade Uni-T 206B ( amzn.to/47AUA5O ) but a great consumer model is plenty good for half the price Uni-T 120 ( amzn.to/3XAscw2 ) . Using them in wiring, construction, Auto work and insulating is massive on money saving. Even finding water leaks in the yard is fast with these.
someone doesn't understand power. it does not matter if you make 500W off 12V or off grid voltage.
a pump that needs 95W to run on 12V does NOT draw the same amps on grid voltage. you'd need a different motor that makes the same power and would draw a fraction of the current on grid voltage.
also using car cig lighter sockets for more then 5-7A is not just wasteful but also a fire hazard.
use XT60/XT90 plugs for cooking/frying ect. stuff that draws more then 7A. you get more out of your battery system because there is less conductor resistance =heat loss.
When it comes to draw on battery, a WATT is a WATT! Using it as direct current is less waste as losses of up to 18% from converting it to AC current. As for standards, DOT applies to standards and limits on 12 volt outlets, all or mostly metal is max of 20 amp and are referred to as Cigarette lighter sockets 12v/24v DC outlets. The plastic or compound made is limited to 12 amps and are referred to as Power Ports, DC Port, or fused utility outlet. 1995 guidelines for RV's and Compact cars is to allow one of each. Commercial vehicles is to allow 2 of each but not in sleeping areas. RV laws as of 2014 is to allow none of them exceeding 15 amp. For high amps use these approved connectors, amzn.to/4dcn8Ur not XT fittings.
XT fittings are still banned in hard installed Automotive and residential RV power outlet use as of 2023 but I have not been a certified RV tech since then so I do not get any new bulletins so maybe now you can.
idk, i think i would rather take the conversion hit and run 120vac since 12vdc is very limiting.
I hacked my 47" TV and inside, 12 volts at 6.76 amps so from battery to inverter 15% loss, converting it back to 12 volts was 7% more loss and it is loosing 24/7 pulling 9.5 amps max and 3.8 amps at idle with TV off with that factor.
But on direct 12 volt, the idle is 0.39 amps DC not 3.8 amps and the actual TV on is 6.76 amps DC. Same with my 16 camera security system, same with all my lights, same with my router 12 volts too and a simple $19 adapter I now run all 3 of my computers with 19 volt buck booster charger. Instead of needing a 5000 watt inverter, we were able to have a 3000 and space on it for surges!
@@JOHNDANIEL1
I'm not sure why youre speaking in amps when power is typically measured in watts. If youre consuming 6 amps on a 12V circuit, thats 72 watts, which is pretty typical for a 47" TV at around 70% backlight. My 55" TV uses 150W at 100% backlit level, 100W at 50%, and 30W at 0%. I usually keep my backlight at 30%, which consumes 66W. I got these measurements from the battery shunt before the inverter. When I measure using a wall meter from 120V, it shows 140W at 100%, 96W at 50%, and 32W at 0%.
watts is watts no matter which way you cut it and It seems like the power 'loss' is only a few watts. I was also measuring power consumption with a full white background btw, While watching regular TV programs, the wattage fluctuates but will never exceeds what it draws on a full white screen.
Amps is what your basing you battery capacity and flow on sine your doing DC powered. Yes you can calculate watts of the items, but your stored amps is what your loosing more of by sending it though a inverter then dropping it at the device to DC again.
@@JOHNDANIEL1
Amps alone isn't the best way to measure battery capacity. Battery capacity is also measured in watt hours (Wh), which gives a better understanding of energy storage. For example, a 100Ah 12V battery has a capacity of 1280Wh (100Ah * 12.8V = 1280Wh). Using just amps to describe power isn't as universal because amps vary based on voltage. To make sense of amps, you would also need to know the voltage you're using, whereas watts (which are amps × volts) give a clearer picture of power consumption.
If I tell you I’m drawing 300 watts, you immediately know how much power is being used. But if I say I'm drawing 6 amps, you'd need to know the voltage to make sense of it. For example:
6A at 12V = 72W
6A at 24V = 144W
6A at 48V = 288W
Without the voltage, using amps alone can be confusing.
example, in my setup:
Solar array: 2kWh
Battery bank: 10kWh
Your method would be:
10 panels, each 10A at 24V, in series
4x 100Ah 24V batteries
you might be using modified sine wave inverters, which are less efficient and would cause devices to draw more power than they actually need.
Wasn’t she starting some project with 18650 batteries? What became of that?
She is still making them, 4 sets of 14s4p made already to 56 volt for a future electric boat motor. She is trying to raise money on those donate links under the video to get 160 more cells and BMS.
Very cool! I’m very late to the Li-Ion game, always thought the were an automatic incendiary, fascinated to learn of the error in my understanding. Worthy project, and update video please!
12VDC power source connections are called
12volt POWER PORTS not outlets.
!
"Power Ports" are a name that Ford of Europe came up with over 30 years ago to explain why they were plans to omit Cigarette ashtrays from their vehicles. Being re-named from "12 volt cigarette outlet" as they said had nothing to do with Ford being mentioned in a 30 billion dollar smokers lawsuit as contributors to the problem. If you search *12 volt Outlet* you get millions results of, yep, exactly what I installed. But I do have a USA made 1997 F-250 with one of those 10 amp "all plastic Power Ports" on it, right next to the mostly metal 20 amp Cigarette lighter in it's Neanderthal based 12 volt Outlet.
As a person who is an electronics/electrical major (of 31 years) watching this video made me cringe hard. This method for a fuse holder is great for something temporary (testing purposes only or an emergency situation) but please just go get a proper DC circuit breaker instead of a car fuse.
Also it's pronounced "Heat Shrink Tubing" not shrink tape cuz "shrink tape" is a totally different product.
Have a good day.
LOL! Yes to the :shrink tape" but when it first came out back in the late 1970's sold at all the great Platt supply and electronics outlets it was called SHRINK TAPE by 3M and it just stuck with me. Shrink Tubing is actually a newer chemical than that older ester based stuff. As for the make a fuse, same parts as what is in the molded ones with 100% assurance since I am picking the real gauge that it is at least not faked CCA in it.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 saying "tape" for a TUBE is like saying "cat" instead "dog".
I cringe about hearing incoherent, inaccurate expression.
many problems in our society stem from miscommunication.
12 volt pretty much old school,, cost of copper cable not worth it
We use Pure Romanian Copper. It's really cheap since it is stolen from the local utility companies there. It's so cheap that we're able to take vacations with the money saved.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 haha
@@JOHNDANIEL1 lol... ai sa mi bag pl... :))
@@JOHNDANIEL1 ... cupru romanesc pur... auzi si tu :))
Când am fost în România, înainte de zilele Margaritasului, am văzut furtul constant de țevi și sârme de cupru din toate clădirile și casele vechi. Am auzit de la prietenii mei de acolo că asta este încă constant.
What an awesome family!