LOL, in the future always take off and cover if your doing an operation that can put shavings into you oil system! also you can apply air to that system to blow out any chips left in there after you tap. Never use air to blow into where there are chips especially if it leads to the oil channels.
Such a well shot and concise video, not many out there. These motors pull so hard with the displacement and compression bump, cant wait to install long tubes and quad intake cams on mine.
Watching you do this just made me realize I can easily do this to my M62 I think it started when i saw how proud you were of yourself for tapping a hole and the confidence in myself just kept rising as you stumbled through this build thanks
the evolution of man 🤓 so happy to see it. always love how you bring your projects into fruition, no excuses, no exception, no bullshit. let her ripppppp! haha some old man is gonna be ecstatic to buy this thing off you in the spring 😂
I'm about to buy an E30 with the same motor and this educated me on every single intricacy about this motor setup that I was curious about. Thank you so much for sharing this video with us!!!
Great video! I also used 5/8 in heater hose for the PCV, but it seemed like it collapsed a little too easy on bends (but maybe I was just using crappy hose); switched to 5/8 in PCV hose and that seemed to work better
Awesome vid Josh! If you dip your tap in heavy grease, it’ll capture the filings - just clean the tap every few turns and reapply the grease. Have done this doing thread repairs on spark plug holes and works great. Bidding on a manual 850i today. Wish me luck!
Really enjoyed your video. Excellent Quality and nice job 😊👍 As a german Kraftfahrzeugtechnikermeister i want to give you a little advise: the knock sensors are highly sensitive and have to tighten with the right tourque, otherwise they could output wrong signals
I’ve followed you for years on ig and always seen you over marketplace and I’m pretty sure you offered your e21 shell to me but this video just made me a subscriber. Awesome video man definitely going to refer to this when I eventually do the same thing. 🤘🏻
Awesome build! BEWARE the cracked waterpump pulley, same thing happened to me then it blew into pieces when engine revved past 3k so swap it out now with an aluminum one otherwise it will ruin your belt and your day 😂
Great video, great content!!! Did you used the M62 or the M60 front timing chain covers? Planning to do the same Frankenstein but the other way around, E39 540i with M60 heads and timing. Would the dual chain fit under the M62 cover? Thanks a lot for answering!!
@@marco_muhelye_reloded thanks dude! But m60 timing covers are what I used. E39 m62 has water cooled alternator and i think no crank sensor in front? Meaning it wouldn’t work with obd 1
Really enjoyed this build video. I have a 95 540i that I bought and have been restoring and I’m also running into that smoking issue. I haven’t find a way to resolve this issue but now I will definitely try this frankenmotor! 🎉
Watch out using heater hose for the PCV. I was using one temporarily and the oil was already weakening it after a month. Something like an NBR hose is good.
Just did the timing chain guides on my m62, they weren't awful after 20 years, but definitely had grooves. Just got to make sure to change the oil on time and maybe replace the tensioner every so often.
I also bought a torque multiplier off Amazon for the Jesus bolt, worked like a charm! Still had to use a 4 ft cheater bar off my jack to get it on and off.
For paper style gaskets I've found a thin coating of Aviation #3 form a gasket on both sides (like molasses) is best VS silicone FWIW, but I've seen many paper style gaskets attached or "reinforced" with silicone too.
I'd really like to do a M60B44 engine. It sure looks like a great way to make a powerful engine for pretty cheap. I have a 94 3.0 530i wagon that would enjoy this engine a lot! However it is hard to part with the good running 3.0 so maybe I'll try to take your video as inspiration to collect pieces to build a M60B44 engine of my own someday. Excellent!
Looks good! Early M62's still have Nikasil though, 1995 into early '96.1745873 is the Alusil 4.4 block number - I've no idea if the early Nikasil one is different, or what it is.
Brilliant guide, thank you! Id presume same goes for the b46 and b48? That would be an interesting build if i can find a block. Do you happen to have any dyno figures on what the m60b44 makes power/torque wise.
@@DiceFarrugia thank you!!! Im sure with a lot of modifications yes, but its not very very easy to make obd 2 since it uses all the m60 obd 1 components
The AGA All German Auto M62 timing kit is fabulous for precise setting of vanos timing on vanos engines and also comes with blocks to bolt down to lock the cams. I prefer it VS the "factory style" tool but the factory tool also works.
Nice job cant wait to see mine complete finally. Both my heads are still at machine shop being stripped down, full decoke and clean, stem seals renewed, light skim and valves relapping. Should get them back this week and build thr engine up next week weather permitting
@@m3nameisjosh464correct, non vanos doesn't have the valve reliefs mine has flat topped pistons. I dont think that makes any difference to the build good or bad to be honest
@@m3nameisjosh464 no swet mate. Quick question on thr main chain tensioner. Did you do the cheat and pop it, fill with oil then fit it under tension ? I know the way to do them when thr engine is in the car is to fit them compressed then pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine over for a bit to build oil pressure in the tensioner which then pops it out into place befire firing it up. But I'm looking to prefill it with oil so the chain is immediately under tension before the engine goes back in the car. Reason being, my gearbox is currently being rebuilt while I do some other jobs on thr e30 like heater core and clutch along with other stuff so I'd like to try and fit thr tensioner under load. Apologies for the long comment 🙈
im excited to hear it run man. i did some Frankenstein stuff to an m54b30 and bent the head gasket where it over hangs and seals on the front timing cover, i ended up lobbing it off and using part of the old head gasket and rtv same way. i was afraid it would leak but it worked out. my next build im going for an m54b30 crank in an m52b28 iron block, using a non vanos head i modified for dual vanos, and im still undecided which rods and pistons to use. definitely love frankenstein engines
awesome content as always Josh. Sat and watched this whole thing as I am planning to do this build on my e34. I have the m62 already dissassembled, I just need to find some m60b40 heads. I am now scared of that crank hub bolt lol that thing looks insane!
At 30:00 you don't need the special tool. It's stupidd expensive for what it is. A paperclip cut and bent to fit has enough strength to hold the tensioner in place
the most universally true thing I can think of - you want something that's softer than the block material but harder than the stuff you're trying to get off it
I usually tighten the jesus bolt after the engine is in and wheels on the ground. Doesn't work with auto transmission though. In this case I'd hold the crank from flex plate. Flex plate is much larger and gives more leverage than front hub. Good work. Looking forward to test drive/first impressions.
Curious if the sanding on the block surface is necessary and possibly damaging. All machine shops I have spoken with suggest a carbide scraper with some lube (wd40 etc) to get the majority of the leftover headgasket debris followed with brake clean (doing small areas bit by bit) or say lacquer thinner (perhaps for a strong solvent wipe if any remaining staining of, say, silicone gasket (factory melded with the head gasket). The roughness average is important I have heard for the MLS head gasket and a "bright and clean to your eye" surface is not important other than making you feel like you did something. What is important is maintaining the factory roughness average within tolerances (how is this measured, checked or calculated - I don't know). In short, a lot of mechanics doing head gaskets on aluminum engines (sanding etc on a iron block is surely much more forgiving, i.e. harder to sand) have taken to using 3m roloc abrasive "finger" pads, etc to clean the block. And probably scotch brite pads and autonomy sanding blocks and whatnot. This can potentially introduce abrasve 3m roloc debris (or sandpaper debris etc) into the engine, hopefully caught by the filter, and also it is not advised from machinists I've spoken to. If you want to avoid debris (swarf?) From entering coolant and oil passages, a trick suggested was to fill the block holes with shaving cream, do your swarf creating cleaning, then shop vac up the foam that captures most or all of the debris. I wouldn't worry overly about any crap in the piston bores, just blow out after or foam those, whatever. The block must be stripped quite bare so I understand the desire to avoid that trip to the machine shop. However, is it doing more harm than good this sanding block way? A careful carbide scraping little by little is not excessively time consuming and seems to me the safest option that has been recommended by every machinist I've spoken to. It will leave the staining on the block. It won't look as "pretty". I'm not shitting on the desire to clean the block. In short: Machine the head minimally if overheated or not Carbide scrape the block surface using the possible tips above little by little with care and of course to avoid gouging with edges of carbide scraper Forget the staining that is left over! do your best with lacquer thinner or brake cleaner to remove possibly embedded silicone. Of course clean well the head bolt holes, chase etc if needed Then assemble normally, clean dry head and block and gasket.
@@m3nameisjosh464 I am not an engine builder by any means. Messurnf everything and dealing with quench, non factory timing adjustments, etc. However I recently had a situation occur where I made 1 good engine of 2 (1 likely good head, 1 likely good block). I simply cleaned the block with a well used but not damaged "super scraper" but frankly I'd like to try the Mueller Kueps carbide scrapers (same shit). As an aside, a tungsten carbide mini block is good to scrape high spots on clear coat if doing a paint touch up. All painters and detailers who are focused on quality use them for cutting down high spots (dust, junk) in the paint or perhaps to shave down a base coat plus clear coat "glob" over top of a touch up vs say "sanding it flat" as it does leave ~2500grit surface easy to quickly polish. Anyway, I have no idea if my good head and block solution will work long term but seems good so far. Guessing 1k miles. All I did was surface the head (4 thou removed from non overheated head) and I scraped the block w the tungsten carbide scraper little by little until satisfied (probably overdid it as usual but were talking minutes of work not hours and hours of effort) and the machine shop explicitly stated to NOT interfere with the factory roughness average on the block deck surface (particularly due to MLS vs a composite head gasket) but simply to clean as stated by scraping. No rotary tooling or pads etc. I've done this numerous times in the past as well. However this is the most recent work I've done and it looked good when done with obvious staining on the block deck from being a used engine naturally. I believe there is a paper grit to RA guide and likely the grit is always coarser than a semi mirror finish you'd get with 400/600 on a sanding block. I will admit a hand sanded deck looks superior. But we all probably hope it will last and provide many trips to redline! I hope others will chime in w more experience than I.
Hey Josh, adding a catch can just like you. Having trouble finding an adapter that was on the end of the pcv like yours "metallic color" where you stated the inlet of the catch can would connect to. My end on that back plate is blocked off stock horizontally and obviously the opening next to the blocked off one needs to be plugged. Thinking of using a dremel to open up the blocked off end and finding an adapter somewhere or diying it?
Just wondering man, my buddy has an E39 540i and it's probably gonna need timing chain guides done soon. It is it possible to retrofit M60 timing chain guides/assembly onto an M62? To get the better timing chain guides from the earlier motor.
You could've used the M60 valley pan with its gasket. Or....mill the M62 valley pan flange flat and then use the M60 gasket. (That's what I did and its still good after 4 years.)
I’d like to see how you did the catch can. I’ve done this to my m62 - entire top end is m60 including pulleys… but for some reason i didn’t do the catch can. lol 😂
Has anybody seen any real numbers on this setup? The M60s timing chain is a plus, but if you have obd2, you'll have to change your wiring harness and ecm to obd1 and for what kind of gains? do M60 heads have smaller cc than M62 so thats less displacement with slightly more compression and If your only plus is the timing chain, it's cheaper and less work to just change the guides but i don't know much on M60/M62
The Baum Tools (Taiwan om sure) flywheel lock pin for m62 engines has not failed to hold up to the extreme torque required to snug the main bolt to 100nm plus 60 plus 60 plus 30 (150 degrees total). It does require the flywheel to be locked however via the locating pin. On a stand I think you could use thr bmw flywheel locker plus the pin. Do not use the AGA locating pin or anything else less stout than a BMW oem style locating pin or it will shear under the torque load. Alternatively a crank holder is also acceptable. I believe I have done 26 M62TU chain guide systems and the large crank bolt is much better to install using a 3/4 1 meter or approx 3 foot breaker bar after the initial 100nm torque. You will damage or destroy your half inch hardware.
Great video, I’m a mechanic but by no means an expert I tend to use something called well/ stagg seal with paper gaskets only real reason is because I’ve been told that as it never goes off it will flex and allow for movement where RTV can cause other leak points is this true or have I been had on? I’ve not had any gaskets leak has anyone have paper ones leak with RTV?
Doing the same thing rn, what s the third port on the water pump, small one? I''m building it for a drift car so i don t know his original purpose... For nice looking pcv delete you can remove all pcv system and run some an-10 hoses from the head covers and a mrt pcv delete plate.
I learned that the hard way, come the first start video😫. But Ive heard about that, not sure how necessary it is unless doing a full on crazy build with one
Lighter lifters are pointless without hollowed camshafts and upgrading the bottom end. This information comes from Jason at sssquid where we had a lengthy chat via email about using these but keeping the dual valve springs. I'm staying with the m60 ones and max 7000 rev limit. Beyond this the above upgrades are needed
Is it possible to have the cylinders bored up on the non vanos m62 block? If so, how big can you go? I've heard the vanos version (my e39's engine) cannot have the bore increased. Definitely going to build my own Frankenmotor to replace my vanos engine eventually, and I wanna build my e39 to be even better than the M5. The M5 GTR if you will lol
@@m3nameisjosh464 I believe they’re aluminum blocks with alusil or nikasil coating in the cylinders, and it’s most likely because of the stock pistons they use. Mine has nikasil which can’t be bored or removed but i’ve never been able to find out the reason why. If I had to guess i’d bet that if it’s bored to bare aluminum and you run different pistons it should be fine but nobody’s tried as far as I know.
@@m3nameisjosh464 If it turns out there’s no reason reason they can’t be bored then i’ll do it when I eventually tackle the project. Could be a few years until I start cause there’s a lot I wanna get done on the car first, the engine will be the finishing touch
This video is awesome for people who actually want to drive the bimmers. Quick question though! Can the same chain upgrade be applied to the 4.6 or 4.8 x5 engines?
Thanks man! Good question, but I dont think so, because the heads/vanos stuff wont work with the m60 chain. This only works because were running m60 heads
@@m3nameisjosh464the 4.8 n62 is ruled out then, but the 4.6 m62 is an identical layout to what you just Frankensteined only it’s bored out, right? I know it’s all hand built by alpine and the head is ported etc, but besides that I think it would work. Is the Vanos different on the 4.6? I’m genuinely curious because I want to put together a reliable rock crawler with one of these engines someday
@@leveluplife8585 same engines yes but the reason it works is because im using the old obd 1 heads on the 4.4 bottom end. So to do the timing chain upgrade youd need to also swap in the m60 heads onto it, which only work on obd 1 management. So you could do m60b46, but needs the obd 1 conversion/heads etc
@@m3nameisjosh464 Thank you for elaborating, my next thought was could you use the updated pencil type coil packs on those heads but it doesn’t seem likely after knowing that. So the m60 heads are the older design coil packs and never saw that update I assume. This is pretty exciting to know some tinkering possibilities for the bmw platforms. How do you go about the engine management and what/when will that motor be running in a chassis?
@leveluplife8585 you can use any coils with this providing you have the management in place to drive them. On my frankenmotor I have got full standalone management with 8x built in ignition drivers which allows me to use bmw coils, smart coils and othwr coils with the use of simple adaptors from thr bmw loom to chosen coil packs. The ecu will then do the rest 😎
Just for clarity, the cam blocks only fit one side which properly times the cams correct? Was curious when I saw you spinning the cam sprockets.. I haven’t timed a bmw yet, but in my experience I’ve always used the cam sprockets to time. I’ve never had a situation of being able to free spin them when the cams timed and locked in.
The cam blocks are labeled for which cam they go around. Then the cams need to have the writing (cyl 1-4 E or A, cyl 5-8 E or A) facing up when locked in cam blocks. They will fit in them that way which is correct or 180 off but no writing facing upward, i made that mistake lol
@@m3nameisjosh464I swear I’ve watched this video 4 times now!! Can’t believe i missed that but thank you Dude! Kind of pointless but I’m dropping one in my 01 e39 soon
I know right! Insane amount of torque! That tool is for like a truck/tank. I would have probably had my full face motorcycle helmet on for extra protection if I was doing anything like that lol.😬😬😬
I miss Denver Beer and Oil videos. I realize he has more important things going on like keeping the lights on. Hopefully in the future he finds time again.
I would say a tad bit more just based off machine shop costs for 2x heads instead of 1. Overall gaskets and stuff are similar pricing. V8 stuff is a bit more expensive, especially in the flywheel department etc
The "Jesus bolt" is 6 sided hex. 6x60 is 360 degrees. Mark the bolt corner on a fixed surface. Turn the next bolt corner to that mark. 60 degrees. Repeat. Then eyeball the middle between the corners and mark that. and that will be more than sufficient to achieve well within factory spec for the torque. Or you could use a torque angle dial adapter. But I suggest the above method. More modern bmws N20 etc torque 100nm the 270 degrees or 3/4 of a turn. Make a mark and turn bolt 3/4 of a turn. It doesn't have to be absolutely perfect right down to the last degree. If in doubt eyeball it past by a couple degrees if you like it good and frigging tight.
I definitely get the idea you are not a profession tech and definitely not a Bimmer tech sir HOWEVER I'm gonna subscribe and watch your vids from time to time anywho!
m539 restorations with a M70 frankenstein video and josh with an m60 frankestein video within 2 days? is this a dream?
Flooding the youtubes with Frankenmotors!!!
m3nameisjosh 🤝 m539 restorations
being the only youtubers i watch
@@LitLampGaming I appreciate you man!!!
sat and watched the whole thing respectfully
My man i appreciate you!
Saving this vid for when I decide to go all in on a full M62 build
There we go‼️
I didn’t skip a minute! Great video!
I appreciate you man!!🙌🏼
My dream is to see m539restoration and josh teaming up on a build series or something because with all this bmw knowledge this could be cool
My dream too😫😫😫
fr he gotta fly to the US & buy an Alpina off Josh or something, m539 🫱🏽🫲🏾 Josh Alpina swap would be insane
Now that would be a BM extravaganza!!! Older models , please.
I swear I FINALLY found a channel that speak v8 bmw engine...one of my favorite engine I think people over look...I'm hype let's go bro
@@patricwell8335 welcome bro!
LOL, in the future always take off and cover if your doing an operation that can put shavings into you oil system! also you can apply air to that system to blow out any chips left in there after you tap. Never use air to blow into where there are chips especially if it leads to the oil channels.
Such a well shot and concise video, not many out there. These motors pull so hard with the displacement and compression bump, cant wait to install long tubes and quad intake cams on mine.
Thank you man!!! Im glad the hard work into filming was appreciated!!
The knowledge archives are growing man, nice job and nice info.
Thank you sir!
Watching you do this just made me realize I can easily do this to my M62 I think it started when i saw how proud you were of yourself for tapping a hole and the confidence in myself just kept rising as you stumbled through this build thanks
@@marcusprice3809 you most definitely can!!!
Thank you. I plan to do this over the winter on my '98 540i. Got an M5 rear subframe and steering gearbox to round it out. Should be a riot
@@robertperillo8738 most definitely!!
the evolution of man 🤓
so happy to see it. always love how you bring your projects into fruition, no excuses, no exception, no bullshit.
let her ripppppp! haha some old man is gonna be ecstatic to buy this thing off you in the spring 😂
Hahahah yessir man!! When I say Im gonna do it Im GONNA DO IT!
I watched every single second of this video. So entertaining! Great work, I learned a lot from this, thanks Josh!
Thank you dude!!! Means a lot to hear
I'm about to buy an E30 with the same motor and this educated me on every single intricacy about this motor setup that I was curious about. Thank you so much for sharing this video with us!!!
@@TheJabroniJoe so glad it helped man!!!
It was long... learned a bunch... thanks!
@@RocketRod56 thanks for watching!
The best bmw v8 video on the internet
I appreciate that so much man! Thank you
Great video! I also used 5/8 in heater hose for the PCV, but it seemed like it collapsed a little too easy on bends (but maybe I was just using crappy hose); switched to 5/8 in PCV hose and that seemed to work better
Mine seems to be alright!
such a great video...most of this type of videos are in foreign language....great to finally have one to understand
Thank you man! Happy to help!
Awesome vid Josh!
If you dip your tap in heavy grease, it’ll capture the filings - just clean the tap every few turns and reapply the grease. Have done this doing thread repairs on spark plug holes and works great.
Bidding on a manual 850i today. Wish me luck!
Great advice! Never thought of that! And goood luck!!!!
Great video man. Stuck around from start to finish. Wish I could do this setup on my M62tu that I'm going to be swapping into my E30.
I appreciate that man!!! You definitely should, would be insane in an E30!
Watched it all the way through as others have said 💪! Eventually when my e32 engine quits I'll go this route 🙌
@@e30_living appreciate you dude!!!
Really enjoyed your video. Excellent Quality and nice job 😊👍
As a german Kraftfahrzeugtechnikermeister i want to give you a little advise: the knock sensors are highly sensitive and have to tighten with the right tourque, otherwise they could output wrong signals
@@Bratworscht thank you very much!!
I’ve followed you for years on ig and always seen you over marketplace and I’m pretty sure you offered your e21 shell to me but this video just made me a subscriber. Awesome video man definitely going to refer to this when I eventually do the same thing. 🤘🏻
@@joejablonski2 thank you Joe! I appreciate that🤝. Yes it was my e12 shell actually! Haha
Thank you, one day I'm going to pull my M62 and if I plan on keeping it this will be very helpful.
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Awesome build! BEWARE the cracked waterpump pulley, same thing happened to me then it blew into pieces when engine revved past 3k so swap it out now with an aluminum one otherwise it will ruin your belt and your day 😂
Thank you man!! And thank you for that heads up!! Ill get a new one on there!!
Great video, great content!!! Did you used the M62 or the M60 front timing chain covers? Planning to do the same Frankenstein but the other way around, E39 540i with M60 heads and timing. Would the dual chain fit under the M62 cover? Thanks a lot for answering!!
@@marco_muhelye_reloded thanks dude! But m60 timing covers are what I used. E39 m62 has water cooled alternator and i think no crank sensor in front? Meaning it wouldn’t work with obd 1
Really enjoyed this build video. I have a 95 540i that I bought and have been restoring and I’m also running into that smoking issue. I haven’t find a way to resolve this issue but now I will definitely try this frankenmotor! 🎉
Thanks man!! Could be bottom end issues, or just a bad CCV, if its the prior then perfect time for m60b44!
Watch out using heater hose for the PCV. I was using one temporarily and the oil was already weakening it after a month. Something like an NBR hose is good.
I’ll keep an eye on it! Theoretically it shouldn’t really see THAT much oil for a healthy engine😅
Just did the timing chain guides on my m62, they weren't awful after 20 years, but definitely had grooves. Just got to make sure to change the oil on time and maybe replace the tensioner every so often.
I also bought a torque multiplier off Amazon for the Jesus bolt, worked like a charm! Still had to use a 4 ft cheater bar off my jack to get it on and off.
Its not so much the grooves you worry about for m62, its entire pieces breaking off on that U guide i believe haha
So hi my friend and I love m62b44 you best👍 i love e34 I'm is from Kyrgyzstan🇰🇬
For paper style gaskets I've found a thin coating of Aviation #3 form a gasket on both sides (like molasses) is best VS silicone FWIW, but I've seen many paper style gaskets attached or "reinforced" with silicone too.
I'd really like to do a M60B44 engine. It sure looks like a great way to make a powerful engine for pretty cheap. I have a 94 3.0 530i wagon that would enjoy this engine a lot! However it is hard to part with the good running 3.0 so maybe I'll try to take your video as inspiration to collect pieces to build a M60B44 engine of my own someday. Excellent!
I thank you for the time and effort in the rebuild.. keep up the great work!!! Enjoy the hunt!
Thanks Weston!!!
Man fantastic work!
Thank you!!!
Looks good! Early M62's still have Nikasil though, 1995 into early '96.1745873 is the Alusil 4.4 block number - I've no idea if the early Nikasil one is different, or what it is.
Ah didn’t know this! Luckily I have a later vanos motor!
@@m3nameisjosh464 You can use a vanos 4.4 block?
@@anthonyk He built the engine using a VANOS block, as he explains in the video.
Brilliant guide, thank you! Id presume same goes for the b46 and b48? That would be an interesting build if i can find a block. Do you happen to have any dyno figures on what the m60b44 makes power/torque wise.
@@lucagraham345 same thing for b46. B48 from an x5 is a different engine entirely. I never got this car on the dyno but Im building another!!
41:59 Glad I have a torque multiplier. That looks difficult.
Awesome video Josh! I love watching your stuff. Could you convert this from obd1 to obd2?
@@DiceFarrugia thank you!!! Im sure with a lot of modifications yes, but its not very very easy to make obd 2 since it uses all the m60 obd 1 components
The AGA All German Auto M62 timing kit is fabulous for precise setting of vanos timing on vanos engines and also comes with blocks to bolt down to lock the cams. I prefer it VS the "factory style" tool but the factory tool also works.
M60 bottom end is not "bad" and any out there still running have been swapped out. The reason to do this is for the higher displacement.
First time watching a video from you but a long time insta follower, keep up the awesome content!
Thank you for joining the youtube man! I appreciate it
Nice job cant wait to see mine complete finally. Both my heads are still at machine shop being stripped down, full decoke and clean, stem seals renewed, light skim and valves relapping. Should get them back this week and build thr engine up next week weather permitting
By the way, m62 non vanos does indeed have the oil squirters. My bottom end has them. The m60 does not
Sweeet! Goood luck!!! And ahh okay its the valve reliefs in pistons that the vanos one has and not the non vanos
@@m3nameisjosh464correct, non vanos doesn't have the valve reliefs mine has flat topped pistons. I dont think that makes any difference to the build good or bad to be honest
@@m3nameisjosh464 no swet mate. Quick question on thr main chain tensioner. Did you do the cheat and pop it, fill with oil then fit it under tension ? I know the way to do them when thr engine is in the car is to fit them compressed then pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine over for a bit to build oil pressure in the tensioner which then pops it out into place befire firing it up. But I'm looking to prefill it with oil so the chain is immediately under tension before the engine goes back in the car. Reason being, my gearbox is currently being rebuilt while I do some other jobs on thr e30 like heater core and clutch along with other stuff so I'd like to try and fit thr tensioner under load.
Apologies for the long comment 🙈
@@clayp.e30_v86 agreed, except maybe saves ur valves if engine is timed wrong( which in the next episode youll see i have 1 cam off😅
Very nice! I've always wanted to see a M60B46.
That was cool! My M62 has held together pretty well this far. But some good geek time 😊
Thank you🙌🏼🙌🏼
waiting for start video and some sound clips, you deserve more views bro
Thank you man! Next monday first start!
im excited to hear it run man. i did some Frankenstein stuff to an m54b30 and bent the head gasket where it over hangs and seals on the front timing cover, i ended up lobbing it off and using part of the old head gasket and rtv same way. i was afraid it would leak but it worked out. my next build im going for an m54b30 crank in an m52b28 iron block, using a non vanos head i modified for dual vanos, and im still undecided which rods and pistons to use. definitely love frankenstein engines
Rtv is the way! But oooo that sounds awesome! Will be a sweeet engine!
awesome content as always Josh. Sat and watched this whole thing as I am planning to do this build on my e34. I have the m62 already dissassembled, I just need to find some m60b40 heads. I am now scared of that crank hub bolt lol that thing looks insane!
Thanks man!!!! Good luck with it! Its a fun project, and yes the crank bolt sucks LOL
At 30:00 you don't need the special tool. It's stupidd expensive for what it is. A paperclip cut and bent to fit has enough strength to hold the tensioner in place
Well that tool comes with the timing blocks which are necessary haha, paperclip is brilliant, i broke an allen key the first time
I would like this set up for my e34 540i. The only thing I will get rid of from this set up is the alternator coolant system
Only m62s have that. So not used here
I like roloc discs for refinishing block surfaces. grinding stones can stop being flat from use.
I considered these too, the internet has so many conflicting opinions on cleaning the surface of blocks
the most universally true thing I can think of - you want something that's softer than the block material but harder than the stuff you're trying to get off it
I usually tighten the jesus bolt after the engine is in and wheels on the ground.
Doesn't work with auto transmission though. In this case I'd hold the crank from flex plate. Flex plate is much larger and gives more leverage than front hub.
Good work. Looking forward to test drive/first impressions.
what would you use to hold flex plate though?
@@m3nameisjosh464 piece of angle iron with couple of holes in it.
@@tiitsaul9036 ahhh gotcha, i felt too lazy to diy anymore tools i caved😅
@@m3nameisjosh464 it's alright. I'm too stingy to spend money in the right places. I turned a 5K car to 6K car by spending $15K on it 😭
@@tiitsaul9036 dont worry I do the same exact thing. Like with my E28!!!
wow what a interesting video josh loved watching this long episode think you ort to start making more like this well done sir
Thank you Mike! I just need more long projects then!
Just got home from a 27hour drive. Saw this upload and I'm like "let's sleep after an hour dude". 😅😅😅
Hahahah ayyyyyyy!!!
Curious if the sanding on the block surface is necessary and possibly damaging.
All machine shops I have spoken with suggest a carbide scraper with some lube (wd40 etc) to get the majority of the leftover headgasket debris followed with brake clean (doing small areas bit by bit) or say lacquer thinner (perhaps for a strong solvent wipe if any remaining staining of, say, silicone gasket (factory melded with the head gasket).
The roughness average is important I have heard for the MLS head gasket and a "bright and clean to your eye" surface is not important other than making you feel like you did something. What is important is maintaining the factory roughness average within tolerances (how is this measured, checked or calculated - I don't know).
In short, a lot of mechanics doing head gaskets on aluminum engines (sanding etc on a iron block is surely much more forgiving, i.e. harder to sand) have taken to using 3m roloc abrasive "finger" pads, etc to clean the block. And probably scotch brite pads and autonomy sanding blocks and whatnot. This can potentially introduce abrasve 3m roloc debris (or sandpaper debris etc) into the engine, hopefully caught by the filter, and also it is not advised from machinists I've spoken to.
If you want to avoid debris (swarf?) From entering coolant and oil passages, a trick suggested was to fill the block holes with shaving cream, do your swarf creating cleaning, then shop vac up the foam that captures most or all of the debris. I wouldn't worry overly about any crap in the piston bores, just blow out after or foam those, whatever.
The block must be stripped quite bare so I understand the desire to avoid that trip to the machine shop. However, is it doing more harm than good this sanding block way? A careful carbide scraping little by little is not excessively time consuming and seems to me the safest option that has been recommended by every machinist I've spoken to. It will leave the staining on the block. It won't look as "pretty".
I'm not shitting on the desire to clean the block.
In short:
Machine the head minimally if overheated or not
Carbide scrape the block surface using the possible tips above little by little with care and of course to avoid gouging with edges of carbide scraper
Forget the staining that is left over! do your best with lacquer thinner or brake cleaner to remove possibly embedded silicone.
Of course clean well the head bolt holes, chase etc if needed
Then assemble normally, clean dry head and block and gasket.
Interesting, I did not think about it like that. I will note all of this for future! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!
@@m3nameisjosh464 I am not an engine builder by any means. Messurnf everything and dealing with quench, non factory timing adjustments, etc. However I recently had a situation occur where I made 1 good engine of 2 (1 likely good head, 1 likely good block). I simply cleaned the block with a well used but not damaged "super scraper" but frankly I'd like to try the Mueller Kueps carbide scrapers (same shit). As an aside, a tungsten carbide mini block is good to scrape high spots on clear coat if doing a paint touch up. All painters and detailers who are focused on quality use them for cutting down high spots (dust, junk) in the paint or perhaps to shave down a base coat plus clear coat "glob" over top of a touch up vs say "sanding it flat" as it does leave ~2500grit surface easy to quickly polish.
Anyway, I have no idea if my good head and block solution will work long term but seems good so far. Guessing 1k miles.
All I did was surface the head (4 thou removed from non overheated head) and I scraped the block w the tungsten carbide scraper little by little until satisfied (probably overdid it as usual but were talking minutes of work not hours and hours of effort) and the machine shop explicitly stated to NOT interfere with the factory roughness average on the block deck surface (particularly due to MLS vs a composite head gasket) but simply to clean as stated by scraping. No rotary tooling or pads etc. I've done this numerous times in the past as well. However this is the most recent work I've done and it looked good when done with obvious staining on the block deck from being a used engine naturally.
I believe there is a paper grit to RA guide and likely the grit is always coarser than a semi mirror finish you'd get with 400/600 on a sanding block.
I will admit a hand sanded deck looks superior. But we all probably hope it will last and provide many trips to redline! I hope others will chime in w more experience than I.
Hey Josh, adding a catch can just like you. Having trouble finding an adapter that was on the end of the pcv like yours "metallic color" where you stated the inlet of the catch can would connect to. My end on that back plate is blocked off stock horizontally and obviously the opening next to the blocked off one needs to be plugged. Thinking of using a dremel to open up the blocked off end and finding an adapter somewhere or diying it?
Mine was diyed by the previous owner so i an not sure how it was done, but it was definitely cut and a pipe fitting was epoxied in.
Man i was gonna get one built for my e38, this is great
big video josh ! really cool
Thank you!!
Can you use the 4.4 L M62TÜB44 block out of 2001 740i for this build?
Yes that is the exact block I used
Just wondering man, my buddy has an E39 540i and it's probably gonna need timing chain guides done soon. It is it possible to retrofit M60 timing chain guides/assembly onto an M62? To get the better timing chain guides from the earlier motor.
@@evanhooper1 they dont work with m62 heads. You would need to build the complete stroker engine
Dope video , really enjoyed it and watching it!
Thank you dude!!!!
You could've used the M60 valley pan with its gasket.
Or....mill the M62 valley pan flange flat and then use the M60 gasket. (That's what I did and its still good after 4 years.)
I didn’t even realize they were different initially
Nicely done! 😎
Thank you!
I’d like to see how you did the catch can. I’ve done this to my m62 - entire top end is m60 including pulleys… but for some reason i didn’t do the catch can. lol 😂
Catch can setup in next episode!
@@m3nameisjosh464 thank you
Has anybody seen any real numbers on this setup? The M60s timing chain is a plus, but if you have obd2, you'll have to change your wiring harness and ecm to obd1 and for what kind of gains? do M60 heads have smaller cc than M62 so thats less displacement with slightly more compression and If your only plus is the timing chain, it's cheaper and less work to just change the guides but i don't know much on M60/M62
@@marcusprice3809 @hamdoesthings has a dyno video!!
The Baum Tools (Taiwan om sure) flywheel lock pin for m62 engines has not failed to hold up to the extreme torque required to snug the main bolt to 100nm plus 60 plus 60 plus 30 (150 degrees total). It does require the flywheel to be locked however via the locating pin. On a stand I think you could use thr bmw flywheel locker plus the pin. Do not use the AGA locating pin or anything else less stout than a BMW oem style locating pin or it will shear under the torque load. Alternatively a crank holder is also acceptable.
I believe I have done 26 M62TU chain guide systems and the large crank bolt is much better to install using a 3/4 1 meter or approx 3 foot breaker bar after the initial 100nm torque. You will damage or destroy your half inch hardware.
Great stuff. Well done!
Thank you Rick!
What’s the cam cover chain tensioner torque spec ???? Left that out 😢
Tight and then a little more. I didn’t torque it haha
Are you willing to sell/part ways with the crank holding tool?
Unfortunately not as Ill need it again in the future
Great video, I’m a mechanic but by no means an expert I tend to use something called well/ stagg seal with paper gaskets only real reason is because I’ve been told that as it never goes off it will flex and allow for movement where RTV can cause other leak points is this true or have I been had on? I’ve not had any gaskets leak has anyone have paper ones leak with RTV?
Never heard of that stuff but rtv typically stays rather pliable unless really old. I rtv all paper gaskets otherwise they love to leak
did you swap front timing chain cover from non vanos to m62b44tu engine block? Because what i saw in this video is cover from non vanos engine
M60b40 timing cover
This is sick. Question is, can I slap m60 heads on my pre-vanos e39 540?
Yup!
Can i use the m62b44 from a bmw x5 to build my my m60b44 for e36? Or does it have to be the e39 e38 b44
You can use that! Or the 4.6 too!
Hey. Do you install lifters filled with oil or drained?
@@dionich as they were removed. Pulled out, set on table and reinstalled
Doing the same thing rn, what s the third port on the water pump, small one? I''m building it for a drift car so i don t know his original purpose...
For nice looking pcv delete you can remove all pcv system and run some an-10 hoses from the head covers and a mrt pcv delete plate.
Inlet from the expansion tank! Noted! But im doing a catch can with stock stuff in place! No complaints
And how are you venting the crankcase then ?
@@clayp.e30_v86 welding an 10 fittings on both headcovers..
Those V8s can be a real pain to work on, great job with the build, Josh! What are your thoughts on using a solid lifter conversion kit for the heads?
I learned that the hard way, come the first start video😫. But Ive heard about that, not sure how necessary it is unless doing a full on crazy build with one
Lighter lifters are pointless without hollowed camshafts and upgrading the bottom end. This information comes from Jason at sssquid where we had a lengthy chat via email about using these but keeping the dual valve springs. I'm staying with the m60 ones and max 7000 rev limit. Beyond this the above upgrades are needed
@@clayp.e30_v86 thanks for chiming in!
Is it possible to have the cylinders bored up on the non vanos m62 block? If so, how big can you go? I've heard the vanos version (my e39's engine) cannot have the bore increased. Definitely going to build my own Frankenmotor to replace my vanos engine eventually, and I wanna build my e39 to be even better than the M5. The M5 GTR if you will lol
Im not sure on that to be honest. They are alusil blocks so maybe they cant or at least its a lot harder to. Best bet is to get a 4.6 from a c5
X5*
@@m3nameisjosh464 I believe they’re aluminum blocks with alusil or nikasil coating in the cylinders, and it’s most likely because of the stock pistons they use. Mine has nikasil which can’t be bored or removed but i’ve never been able to find out the reason why. If I had to guess i’d bet that if it’s bored to bare aluminum and you run different pistons it should be fine but nobody’s tried as far as I know.
@@m3nameisjosh464 If it turns out there’s no reason reason they can’t be bored then i’ll do it when I eventually tackle the project. Could be a few years until I start cause there’s a lot I wanna get done on the car first, the engine will be the finishing touch
Perfect entertainment while feeding the newborn.
Make sure the newborn is taking notes ;)
By using the non vanos heads did you have to reprogram the computer?
To optimize power yes but cars running exact same engine for all it knows, was always non vanos
Is this actually cheaper than sourcing and rebuilding a beat S62? At least in terms of horsepower / dollar?
Both an M60 and an M62 combined cost under $2k, an S62 is 6k in needs rebuild condition. So yes it is way cheaper. 300 wheel here, 360 wheel S62
This video is awesome for people who actually want to drive the bimmers. Quick question though! Can the same chain upgrade be applied to the 4.6 or 4.8 x5 engines?
Thanks man! Good question, but I dont think so, because the heads/vanos stuff wont work with the m60 chain. This only works because were running m60 heads
@@m3nameisjosh464the 4.8 n62 is ruled out then, but the 4.6 m62 is an identical layout to what you just Frankensteined only it’s bored out, right? I know it’s all hand built by alpine and the head is ported etc, but besides that I think it would work. Is the Vanos different on the 4.6? I’m genuinely curious because I want to put together a reliable rock crawler with one of these engines someday
@@leveluplife8585 same engines yes but the reason it works is because im using the old obd 1 heads on the 4.4 bottom end. So to do the timing chain upgrade youd need to also swap in the m60 heads onto it, which only work on obd 1 management. So you could do m60b46, but needs the obd 1 conversion/heads etc
@@m3nameisjosh464 Thank you for elaborating, my next thought was could you use the updated pencil type coil packs on those heads but it doesn’t seem likely after knowing that. So the m60 heads are the older design coil packs and never saw that update I assume. This is pretty exciting to know some tinkering possibilities for the bmw platforms. How do you go about the engine management and what/when will that motor be running in a chassis?
@leveluplife8585 you can use any coils with this providing you have the management in place to drive them.
On my frankenmotor I have got full standalone management with 8x built in ignition drivers which allows me to use bmw coils, smart coils and othwr coils with the use of simple adaptors from thr bmw loom to chosen coil packs. The ecu will then do the rest 😎
"We will have an internally buttoned up engine" now where did I hear that from???!.. Oh Tavarish on his Galardo V10 build ages ago.
Wow thats a throwback!!
Do the m60b30 heads work as well? Or do they have to be b40
B30 heads are a downgrade
Thanks so much, that's really useful..
Another banger video 🔥🔥
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼😝
Just for clarity, the cam blocks only fit one side which properly times the cams correct? Was curious when I saw you spinning the cam sprockets.. I haven’t timed a bmw yet, but in my experience I’ve always used the cam sprockets to time. I’ve never had a situation of being able to free spin them when the cams timed and locked in.
The cam blocks are labeled for which cam they go around. Then the cams need to have the writing (cyl 1-4 E or A, cyl 5-8 E or A) facing up when locked in cam blocks. They will fit in them that way which is correct or 180 off but no writing facing upward, i made that mistake lol
@@m3nameisjosh464 so theoretically the cam block will fit on the cams on all 4 sides?
@@byronvontreal7046 blocks will fit on a cam in on only 2 of the 4 orientations
@@m3nameisjosh464 ok makes sense. 0° and 180°.
@@byronvontreal7046 exactly
Here is where I get confused. Do I use m60 or m62 head gaskets?
@@Im5Jayden m62. And they dont wrap around the timing covers, hence why we reused pieces from old head gaskets in those spots.
@@m3nameisjosh464I swear I’ve watched this video 4 times now!! Can’t believe i missed that but thank you Dude! Kind of pointless but I’m dropping one in my 01 e39 soon
@@Im5Jayden awesome!
@@m3nameisjosh464do you have any idea how I would run my cam sensor as it’s obd2 chassis and harness with obd1 sensors on the motor itself?
Would it be more beneficial to swap in a obd1 harness?
I had my safety squints on just watching you torque that crank bolt with a 10 foot breaker bar
Dude insanely scary😂
I know right! Insane amount of torque! That tool is for like a truck/tank. I would have probably had my full face motorcycle helmet on for extra protection if I was doing anything like that lol.😬😬😬
I miss Denver Beer and Oil videos. I realize he has more important things going on like keeping the lights on. Hopefully in the future he finds time again.
Chris has guided me on a few topics regarding this swap. Great guy!
Where can i find this sproket ?
@@jhz3728 cant, has to be off an m60b40
This is awesome
Thank you!
How does the refreshing part-cost compare to a M52 ?
I would say a tad bit more just based off machine shop costs for 2x heads instead of 1. Overall gaskets and stuff are similar pricing. V8 stuff is a bit more expensive, especially in the flywheel department etc
M60B40 and M62B44NV both have piston oil squirters :-)
Good stuff bro!!
Thanks dawg!!
🧑🏾💻Great video
Thank you!!!
Is it possible to make a 1998 540i into a m60b44 but use the 540s obd2?
I dont think so, you need m60 heads for a m60b44 and theres no vanos on them/ etc
Not possible for thr reason stated above
Possibly if there's a kit that can convert OB2 into OB1, otherwise swapping over the whole ecu to OB1 but that's a rats nest 😅
The "Jesus bolt" is 6 sided hex. 6x60 is 360 degrees. Mark the bolt corner on a fixed surface. Turn the next bolt corner to that mark. 60 degrees. Repeat. Then eyeball the middle between the corners and mark that. and that will be more than sufficient to achieve well within factory spec for the torque. Or you could use a torque angle dial adapter. But I suggest the above method. More modern bmws N20 etc torque 100nm the 270 degrees or 3/4 of a turn. Make a mark and turn bolt 3/4 of a turn. It doesn't have to be absolutely perfect right down to the last degree. If in doubt eyeball it past by a couple degrees if you like it good and frigging tight.
What does this cost?
@@rogiere007 depends how cheap you get the engine for. But I believe it cost me about 2-3k for everything
Why not build a lt6 v8?
BMW only
@@m3nameisjosh464 true
I definitely get the idea you are not a profession tech and definitely not a Bimmer tech sir HOWEVER I'm gonna subscribe and watch your vids from time to time anywho!
What gives you this Idea 😅
Dyno video?
Let me get it running first😝