i know Im asking randomly but does any of you know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Reyansh Devin thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
A Great video from 3 years ago. Today, in 2023 I replaced my GFCI and installed a new in-use box without any trouble. I'm also alive and well after doing it! Thanks Bill!
I really like this video because the procedure and tips cover issues any DIY person would run into in a real world project. Every step is clearly covered and there isn't any wasted time. Thanks!
I am seriously considering entering the trade thanks to the interest you sparked (hehe 😉) in me! There's something empowering about opening up an outlet for a simple replacement and seeing how horribly the last person installed it, then knowing exactly how it should be done. You've instilled the practice of double- and triple-checking to ensure no wires are live before doing anything, the importance of good solid wire connections, and that you truly get what you pay for (the slightly more expensive commercial grade models are definitely worth it, and cheap tools are pure crap!). And those are just the lessons from the top of my mind. While there's heaps more to electrical work than just replacing outlets, knowing how to do that task at age 17 (and earlier!) makes the idea of furthering my knowledge and entering the electrician trade seem like a good path for me to follow. Thank you Bill!
Thanks so much for the kind words Ian! I wish you the best no matter what trade you may follow. (I think electrical is the best but I'm biased) It's so great to hear that you're inspired to work safely, thanks!
Nice that you choice the best trade around. Yep I'm a second generation sparky. Here's a few tips from an old guy: 1) get good at troubleshooting. That separates the boys from the man 2) maintain & always wear the proper PPE 3) Only purchase & use quality tools & test equipment. NEVER use safety or test equipment from lying lack of quality control communist china 4) If somebody insists that you perform dangerous or something against the code tell them to put it in writing and sign it in front of a trusted witness. 5) Show up on time, don't take more then 2 days off a year while an apprentice 6) Attend training including classes on code changes 6) join & attend a local organization such as the IAEI. In my area they have 8 yearly night meetings attended by approximately 125 people . Around 15 to 20 highly qualified electrical inspectors and some engineers and the rest sparkies. 7) work safe. No matter what some safety departments and others say to never work on energized equipment at times you have to. When I switch 13,200 volt services, breakers or tie switch I always have another qualified worker ( electrician ) suited up with the proper approved PPE ten feet away in case crap hits the fan.8) Get good at motor starter & drives. Always found commercial & industrial work more challenging and better pay. 9) Be carefull working on 480 volt three phase VFD'S .The 670 volt DC Buss can stay energized for over 20 minutes due to huge capacitor bank. 10) ALWAYS PAY YOUR SELF FIRST. In other words put money into a ROTH or 401 K plan. Every time you get a raise bump up contribution 1%. I was lucky that I often had to work overtime & holidays . I would get into my computer and try to place all of my extra money from overtime into my 401K. When I retired have a nice nest egg to afford to go on two vacations a year and 1 or 2 long weekends away and spoil the grandkids. Enjoy taking the grandkids out for breakfast, dollar store, 5 below, arts & craft stores and zip lines.
This video is so critical especially for DIYers. I cant tell you how many homes I have gone to with people who tried to do outdoor electrical on their own. Its not just about the wiring. If the appropriate equipment is not used and sealed water will trigger the switch as well as cause structural long term damage which can cause even worse long term damage.
Bill, how would you have attached the depth adjustable box shown at the 2 minute mark if there had been a stud adjacent to the hole? The bracket on that box appears to be for new work only as the flange is designed to wrap around the face of the stud.
Great Video Sparky! I went to install a new GFCI, and the metal holding box went into the cement block when I put pressure on the two screws. Now I can't secure the outlet to the box unless I use long nose pliers to hold the box while I screw the GFCI in. I don't know how I can fix this. How do I get the metal box out, because there is nothing to fasten it to, or how do I secure the box? Thank You.
I was appalled at the old GFCI you removed since it looked like there was nothing preventing water from getting into that box. Good job on waterproofing the new outlet.
I’ve had to replace the screws with longer ones on thick walls. As far as the concrete, patching is a must, with a good quality silicone where you can’t reach. Concrete patch is preferred. I’d take exception to saying the receptacles are more heavy-duty. Most are made with the same innards. Tape is your call, but is not needed on plastic boxes. I prefer to put the silicone on the foam to make sure it covers completely.
I did really dumb when installing an outdoor outlet. I wasn't paying attention and did not use an outdoor/Weather Resistant GFCI. After a couple of years it started tripping by itself in our damp Midwest weather. Would not stay on. Since then, I just use standard receptacles outside, wired through a GFCI device inside the house. A GFCI receptacle or breaker.
great stuff Sparky. Just in time as I need to replace my exterior exelctrical box as its broken and exposed on one outlet. need to fix mine before the rains come.
I have the same volt tester and when you turn it on the tip of the meter turns green on regular voltage and blue for low voltage until it senses voltage it turns red. It looked like your meter was still turned off when you used it
I added one of these to my vinyl clad addition. My vinyl was attached to osb with house wrap. The big box stores sell what are called "mounting blocks." It involved cutting a square out of my vinyl siding. I popped lose one run of my siding, mounted the block to the side of the house, and installed the vinyl siding over the block. There are several YT videos outlining the procedure.
Replacing a Radon fan that is powered by a GFI outlet - should it be connected to the load side ? The old GFI I'm replacing has the Radon fan connected to the line side. Is this ok?
@Sparky Channel. Thank you for another great video. Appreciate your thorough explainations and attention to details like sealing up the work box and cover. I'm sure even where you are, it can rain sideways. Question: Do you plan on reviewing the TayMac ML500W type weatherproof expandable covers? Like to see your opinion when compared to the hinged style you just showed. Best wishes to you and your family.
I think I did review that one on the old channel. The big advantage to them is that they don't stick out so far so they don't get hit as often which is very important. I'll look for the video on my hard drive. Thanks!
Yes, I was just looking for a mention of that TayMac ML500W cover here on this thread, too I think they are relatively new, right? I saw them in the hardware store recently, and was thinking about replacing some older ones I have with those.
Also,, I have a couple of outdoor switches by my pool equipment - one switch is single gang and the other is double-gang with a receptacle. Sparky, do you have a recommendation for a cover for an outdoor switch that is used frequently?
There’s an old work box that has screws that are mounted on the inside towards the left side, and you would screw those into the studs. The screws are at an angle. The one Sparky was showing he would not have been able to use it on that hole. He would’ve had to cut more and exposed the stud so that the latch and so forth would have been able to attach. That’s why I assume he already had the stucco patch and silicon handy because he was already prepared to do that work, because old work boxes are wishy washy when it comes to stucco because of the thickness and just how rough the surface is. There are tricks though. You can always attach a longer screw to those flaps so that you can grab hold of thicker areas.
Hi Bill, what is your opinion on using romex for an exterior outlet like this? Ive had so many people say different things, most citing that the box is a damp location and not suitable for NM. Ive used UF but mostly just see NM. Anything definite?
@@gerardoortega4027the material alone is about 50$ because the receptacle he used is about 20$ and the box is another $20 plus the cover and so forth. Then the silicone and putty. So all around it is about 150 - 175$ total cost.
Yes, just make sure you wire them properly. The power coming in goes into the line connections on the GFCI. Then from the load part of it you run power to the rest of your outlets. You only need one GFCI on a circuit if you wire it this way, the rest can be normal weather resistant outlets.
How critical is the ‘weather resistant’ gfci? I’m about to install an outdoor outlet and didn’t know about that. I do have a weather proof in use cover
The internal materials are supposed to be more resistant to corrosion from humidity I prefer using opaque covers outdoors to avoid overheating the receptacle through the solar gain that occurs with a clear cover
I got nervous. I'm new to the channel and watching old videos. I saw the sMe thing and went to the comment section before I jumped the gun. You see white 12/2 and black 12/2 in old houses in NC
If the previous owner mistakenly used the white wire for HOT while used the black wire for NEUTRAL, can/should I just continue to use the white for HOT (brass color screw) and black for NEUTRAL (silver color screw) when add an outlet downstream? (rewiring and correcting the polarity all the way back to the power panel is too much work!) Thanks.
Highly highly doubt they put the neutral in the breaker and hot in the neutral bus bar at the panel. They most likely just wired the receptacle wrong. So no, you should not continue to use white for hot. Definitely fix it.
Use a meter to check which wires are hot. Very unlikely they would put the white wire on the circuit breaker and the black wire on the bus bar. Once you have used a meter to verify, you just wire it up correctly.
Do you use Noalox or Dielectric grease on the terminal screws? I always get get corrosion. I recently started putting silicone around the edge and on top of the outlet box. I also applied some Noalox on the screws. I emailed Noalox manufacturer and they said it was OK to use.
I have a 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire, but I used a 15 amp GFCI. Is that OK? The gfci is on a house wall and feeds my backyard shed. Inside my shed, I have a 20 amp GFCI outlet that is used for my pool pump. I used a 15 amp gfci because Home Depot didn't have any 20amp. I never plug anything large in my yard. My pool pump is only a 1/3 HP and called for either a 15 amp or 20 amp circuit.
Of course you will identify in the main panel the circuit breaker for the circuit doing any work. When you identify that breaker to de energize the circuit note the label on the breaker. It will either be a "15" or a "20" for a circuit such as you are describing. Match the amperage rating of the device (here a GFCI receptacle) to the rating on the circuit breaker for that circuit. DO NOT USE A 20 AMP RATED DEVICE, EITHER SWITCH OR RECEPTACLE, ON A CIRCUIT CONTROLLED BY A 15 AMP BREAKER.
The amp draw is dictated by wire size. 15 amp is 14ga wire. A 20 amp circuit uses 12ga wire. You do not want to put a 20 amp fuse/breaker on a 14ga circuit.
@@jimmclaughlin8195 You can't always rely on the breaker size as a determining factor. For example, when I first bought my home someone had wired a 14ga/15 amp circuit to a 20 amp breaker. My remote garage is wired in all 12ga, but someone installed 15 amp receptacles. The breaker and receptacles need to be determined by the wire size. 15 amp for 14ga, and 20 amp for 12ga. You can legally install a 15 amp device on a 20 amp circuit, but then it's derated. You CANNOT (legally) install a 20 amp breaker/device to a 15 amp circuit.
@@dudeman650 huh didnt know that haven't come across it yet. I saw the cloth, knob and tube, old bx, aluminum wiring etc not that yet. Thank you for sharing that.
20A GFCI receptacle with a 20A Circuit Breaker with a Romex that is actually 14 AWG wire, not 12 AWG wire due to the white color Romex. 12 AWG is yellow in color
Forget about the color, read the information on the cable or check the breaker or use a wire gauge to verify. They didn’t use color codes in the past for 12 gauge and 14 gauge and so forth.
A 20 amp receptacle is not required if there is more than one place to plug in something. A duplex receptacle has two places to plug in so it is allowed to use a 15 amp receptacle. It is very rare that you need a 20 amp configured receptacle in a dwelling.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp You must not be powering any significant loads. Try running a space heater or a window unit off a 15 amp circuit. The cost of a 20 amp circuit vs. a 15 amp circuit is minimal, but there are distinct advantages to having 20 amp circuits. The new NEC requires tamper resistant receptacles on ALL new installs. When I rewired my 1950 house I planned ahead and used 14-2 for the lighting, and 12-2 for the receptacles throughout the house.
@@im2yys4u81 Just trying to state why spend more on a 20 amp duplex receptacle when a 15 amp duplex will do a good job. Starting at least 40 years ago always ran #12 type NM-B cable ( no such thing as Romex in NEC ) to all residential & commerical locations. I never waste money on 20 amp duplex receptacles. The halve dozen different brands of 15 & 20 amp duplex receptacle that I have taken apart always had the exact same parts, same thickness on metal. There are a lot of exceptions in the halve millon word electricians Bible ( NEC book ) .You can use #14 guage wires to a single ( not a duplex ) receptacle and be perfectly legal to have it feed from a 20 amp circuit breaker. Example would be to feed a motor such as an air compressor that the high inrush Amps ( LRA = Locked rotor Amps ) much trip a 15 amp breaker during start ups. While attending numerous IAEI continuing education classes somebody would ask 3 inspectors the same question and get 3 caring answers
@@im2yys4u81 No was told that you do not need a TR receptacle for any receptacles mounted over 7' above the floor such as garage door opener receptacles mounted on ceilings, click receptacles ( have not installed one if these dinosaurs in over 45 years ) and maybe some microwave receptacles mounted inside a kitchen cabinet . At a continuing education class somebody asked if you needed a TR receptacle on a roof that was there for required receptacle. required within 25' of air conditioning equipment. Inspector no if it was only able to be accessible from an extension ladder.
I know that very confusing, because sometime wire touch other wire them trick breaker… Or someone when remove the cover then get shot by electricity no reason. What happened to me, what ever when I remove cover from receptacle then I get shot by electrical and when I plug in then I got shot again like 5 time… also we don’t have a tape on it Now I wrapping tape around receptacle everywhere then more safe
What you've been looking for the PU Chemical for your this waterproof junction box gasket foam with Waterproof and fireproofing function, should be here ua-cam.com/video/7aqSaacMbhg/v-deo.html
God i love listening and watching a PRO instead of some no brain 20 year old that just left his mommys bedroom but thinks he knows everything. :) Just like i was when i was 20! lol
Best electrician channel. Thanks Bill
Thanks Tony! That means a lot! I hope you had a great weekend!
i know Im asking randomly but does any of you know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Keenan Jaime instablaster :)
@Reyansh Devin thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Reyansh Devin it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
A Great video from 3 years ago. Today, in 2023 I replaced my GFCI and installed a new in-use box without any trouble. I'm also alive and well after doing it! Thanks Bill!
Great to hear!
I really like this video because the procedure and tips cover issues any DIY person would run into in a real world project. Every step is clearly covered and there isn't any wasted time. Thanks!
Thanks so much Steve!
I will definitely do silicone around my next box. Thanks so much for sharing your rich knowledge. Keep the videos coming Bill!!
Excellent! I'll try, thanks!
I am seriously considering entering the trade thanks to the interest you sparked (hehe 😉) in me! There's something empowering about opening up an outlet for a simple replacement and seeing how horribly the last person installed it, then knowing exactly how it should be done. You've instilled the practice of double- and triple-checking to ensure no wires are live before doing anything, the importance of good solid wire connections, and that you truly get what you pay for (the slightly more expensive commercial grade models are definitely worth it, and cheap tools are pure crap!). And those are just the lessons from the top of my mind. While there's heaps more to electrical work than just replacing outlets, knowing how to do that task at age 17 (and earlier!) makes the idea of furthering my knowledge and entering the electrician trade seem like a good path for me to follow. Thank you Bill!
Thanks so much for the kind words Ian! I wish you the best no matter what trade you may follow. (I think electrical is the best but I'm biased)
It's so great to hear that you're inspired to work safely, thanks!
Nice that you choice the best trade around. Yep I'm a second generation sparky. Here's a few tips from an old guy: 1) get good at troubleshooting. That separates the boys from the man 2) maintain & always wear the proper PPE 3) Only purchase & use quality tools & test equipment. NEVER use safety or test equipment from lying lack of quality control communist china 4) If somebody insists that you perform dangerous or something against the code tell them to put it in writing and sign it in front of a trusted witness. 5) Show up on time, don't take more then 2 days off a year while an apprentice 6) Attend training including classes on code changes 6) join & attend a local organization such as the IAEI. In my area they have 8 yearly night meetings attended by approximately 125 people . Around 15 to 20 highly qualified electrical inspectors and some engineers and the rest sparkies. 7) work safe. No matter what some safety departments and others say to never work on energized equipment at times you have to. When I switch 13,200 volt services, breakers or tie switch I always have another qualified worker ( electrician ) suited up with the proper approved PPE ten feet away in case crap hits the fan.8) Get good at motor starter & drives. Always found commercial & industrial work more challenging and better pay. 9) Be carefull working on 480 volt three phase VFD'S .The 670 volt DC Buss can stay energized for over 20 minutes due to huge capacitor bank. 10) ALWAYS PAY YOUR SELF FIRST. In other words put money into a ROTH or 401 K plan. Every time you get a raise bump up contribution 1%. I was lucky that I often had to work overtime & holidays . I would get into my computer and try to place all of my extra money from overtime into my 401K. When I retired have a nice nest egg to afford to go on two vacations a year and 1 or 2 long weekends away and spoil the grandkids. Enjoy taking the grandkids out for breakfast, dollar store, 5 below, arts & craft stores and zip lines.
This video is so critical especially for DIYers. I cant tell you how many homes I have gone to with people who tried to do outdoor electrical on their own. Its not just about the wiring. If the appropriate equipment is not used and sealed water will trigger the switch as well as cause structural long term damage which can cause even worse long term damage.
Yes, it's harder to seal these things than a newbie might think. You have to be super careful to keep the water out. Thanks!
I have exactly that problem and your video just saved me a bunch of money... Thanks!!!
That's a very detailed and informative "how to" video. Thanks for posting this Sparky!
Very welcome, thanks Reggie!
@@SparkyChannel Daddy, will you teach me everything? 😭
The house renovation videos are my favorite
Fantastic! I'm trying to find them all on my hard drive. Have a great day!
Good job Sparky. The Home Renovation was a great series.
Thanks. It was a really successful renovation.
Thanks a lot. This is a great tutorial for anyone that want to do the work themselves. Have a good one, and stay safe.
Thanks, you too Rod!
Bill, how would you have attached the depth adjustable box shown at the 2 minute mark if there had been a stud adjacent to the hole? The bracket on that box appears to be for new work only as the flange is designed to wrap around the face of the stud.
Sparky, great video. you are very thorough . i liked when you recemented around box plus the gaulking you did.
Thanks John! 👍
@@SparkyChannel. i am an accountant but i love to learn other things.
I love your videos it has helped me with many projects around the house. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure, thanks!
Bill you're the best I appreciate everything you do you do a very good job thanks.
Thanks so much Mike!
I will be doing this soon to my outside plug soon. Very helpful!
Good luck Wyatt!
Do you ever use the higher grade fibreglass old work boxes? They are more rigid.
Love these videos. I really appreciate when you explain what is and what is not up to code. That's important stuff right there!
Thank you!
Thank you! Just safely and successfully changed mine out.
Excellent!
Great Video Sparky! I went to install a new GFCI, and the metal holding box went into the cement block when I put pressure on the two screws. Now I can't secure the outlet to the box unless I use long nose pliers to hold the box while I screw the GFCI in. I don't know how I can fix this. How do I get the metal box out, because there is nothing to fasten it to, or how do I secure the box? Thank You.
I was appalled at the old GFCI you removed since it looked like there was nothing preventing water from getting into that box. Good job on waterproofing the new outlet.
Thanks Dave!
Even your stucco work was good! I'm subscribing. Great video, btw.
Thanks Judy!
Thanks for the links to the plastic outdoor covers.📱
No problem 👍
I’ve had to replace the screws with longer ones on thick walls. As far as the concrete, patching is a must, with a good quality silicone where you can’t reach. Concrete patch is preferred. I’d take exception to saying the receptacles are more heavy-duty. Most are made with the same innards.
Tape is your call, but is not needed on plastic boxes. I prefer to put the silicone on the foam to make sure it covers completely.
Thanks!
Here in the UK we try to avoid any studs! on the rare occasion we aren't installing a socket into a brick wall haha! Great vid!
Thanks Dan! Cheers from San Diego!
Thank you. Had this done on an outside outlet. Works this is a great video
Excellent! Great job!
Thanks sparky! I have really enjoyed your conduit videos. I was having a tough time with 4pt saddles and your vids really helped
Thanks so much! I'm going to be doing more EMT bending videos. Any requests?
I hade similar situation where there was no stud and thick stucco I replaced the old work box screws with long screws so it will hold the box better.
Good tip, thanks!
I did really dumb when installing an outdoor outlet. I wasn't paying attention and did not use an outdoor/Weather Resistant GFCI. After a couple of years it started tripping by itself in our damp Midwest weather. Would not stay on. Since then, I just use standard receptacles outside, wired through a GFCI device inside the house. A GFCI receptacle or breaker.
great stuff Sparky. Just in time as I need to replace my exterior exelctrical box as its broken and exposed on one outlet. need to fix mine before the rains come.
Yes, I hope everything went well!
My current outdoor plugs trip the reset when the sprinklers come on. I am going to replace them with the correct amp plugs and covers you used. Thx
Are the outlets getting wet?
@@SparkyChannel Yes I do believe ther are! I assumed some water would not affect them with outdoor covers???? But the covers are 10 years old or older
I have the same volt tester and when you turn it on the tip of the meter turns green on regular voltage and blue for low voltage until it senses voltage it turns red. It looked like your meter was still turned off when you used it
True professional, great job.
Thanks Dana!
Now make a video on how to attach one of these to vinyl siding. I'd rather have to deal with stucco than my vinyl siding.
Excellent idea.
I added one of these to my vinyl clad addition. My vinyl was attached to osb with house wrap. The big box stores sell what are called "mounting blocks." It involved cutting a square out of my vinyl siding. I popped lose one run of my siding, mounted the block to the side of the house, and installed the vinyl siding over the block. There are several YT videos outlining the procedure.
What type/ brand silicone did you use? Btw, Awesome video! Very informative.
That wasn't actually silicone, I think it was DAP ALEC... but we all get the idea, right?!
If the code allow to pass an uf-b wire through the wall? While the code allow it for direct burial.
Thank you.
Thanks Sparky
My pleasure!
Replacing a Radon fan that is powered by a GFI outlet - should it be connected to the load side ? The old GFI I'm replacing has the Radon fan connected to the line side. Is this ok?
@Sparky Channel. Thank you for another great video. Appreciate your thorough explainations and attention to details like sealing up the work box and cover. I'm sure even where you are, it can rain sideways.
Question: Do you plan on reviewing the TayMac ML500W type weatherproof expandable covers? Like to see your opinion when compared to the hinged style you just showed.
Best wishes to you and your family.
I think I did review that one on the old channel. The big advantage to them is that they don't stick out so far so they don't get hit as often which is very important. I'll look for the video on my hard drive. Thanks!
Yes, I was just looking for a mention of that TayMac ML500W cover here on this thread, too I think they are relatively new, right? I saw them in the hardware store recently, and was thinking about replacing some older ones I have with those.
Also,, I have a couple of outdoor switches by my pool equipment - one switch is single gang and the other is double-gang with a receptacle. Sparky, do you have a recommendation for a cover for an outdoor switch that is used frequently?
Is that an old work box for studs? Can you show how to use that?
There’s an old work box that has screws that are mounted on the inside towards the left side, and you would screw those into the studs. The screws are at an angle. The one Sparky was showing he would not have been able to use it on that hole. He would’ve had to cut more and exposed the stud so that the latch and so forth would have been able to attach. That’s why I assume he already had the stucco patch and silicon handy because he was already prepared to do that work, because old work boxes are wishy washy when it comes to stucco because of the thickness and just how rough the surface is. There are tricks though. You can always attach a longer screw to those flaps so that you can grab hold of thicker areas.
Sparky question
20amp breaker
Running 100ft 12-2 will I lose amps to the fuse panel
Thanks
Voltage drop on a 100ft run of 12-2 will be negligible.
instead of using stucco patch, why not use al weather caulking. it looked like the gap was small enough
That would work too.
Do you have a similar vedio but where you mounted with a stud ....?????????
I don't think so.
Great video. Thanks for the links.
No problem! Thanks!
Great Advice: 20amp circuit with 12 gauge wire you can use a 20amp WR Outlet >>>>> 15amp with 14 gauge wire you cannot USE a 20 Amp WR Outlet!!
Great tip! Thanks Martin!
He knows that.
Hey @Sparky Channel do you have a video about the klein tools cl800 clamp meter?
No, but I do have a video on their new Klein Tools CL380 AC/DC Digital HVAC Clamp Meter, 400A Auto-Ranging: ua-cam.com/video/Pxxmf_v1HwI/v-deo.html
Thats shockingly simple.justsayn
LOL, Play on words? :)
Hi Bill, what is your opinion on using romex for an exterior outlet like this? Ive had so many people say different things, most citing that the box is a damp location and not suitable for NM. Ive used UF but mostly just see NM. Anything definite?
I'm glad you quickly realized that this was not a job for a drill and switched to a screwdriver
Yep!
Bill , a lot of mason's are gonna be envious of your masonry skills ... Lol ... Great vid as usual ...
LOL! Thanks Eddy!
How much do you charge for what you just did? It is not inconvenient for you.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge👍
God bless you 🙏
About $100.
@@SparkyChannel thank you
Thanks for sharing, Would this be with materials included?
@@gerardoortega4027 I don't think so. Parts are around extra $50
@@gerardoortega4027the material alone is about 50$ because the receptacle he used is about 20$ and the box is another $20 plus the cover and so forth. Then the silicone and putty. So all around it is about 150 - 175$ total cost.
I need to do this same thing. But I want to use a 4 outlet configuration. Is that allowable for a 20 amp outdoor gfci?
Yes, just make sure you wire them properly. The power coming in goes into the line connections on the GFCI. Then from the load part of it you run power to the rest of your outlets. You only need one GFCI on a circuit if you wire it this way, the rest can be normal weather resistant outlets.
1:08 Bill what is the model number for the old gfci?
Great job explaining, thank you
My pleasure!
Mine only has 2 wires (white & red). Is there a reason for this?
That sounds like older wiring. The first clue to older wiring is the absence of a grounding wire.
20 amp circuit, looks like 14 gauge not 12 gauge?
It's 12g.
I don't think they color coded the wire "back in the day."
How critical is the ‘weather resistant’ gfci? I’m about to install an outdoor outlet and didn’t know about that. I do have a weather proof in use cover
It's required by code for all new construction and renovations
The internal materials are supposed to be more resistant to corrosion from humidity
I prefer using opaque covers outdoors to avoid overheating the receptacle through the solar gain that occurs with a clear cover
Really informative video - thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks Jim!
Great Video Great Advice
Thanks!
Thanks really good video
did you put a 20 amp device on 14/2 wire? lol
No, that was 12/2 with ground. In the 90's 12/2 was white. It's a 20A circuit.
@@SparkyChannel kick ass. remember to change the pitiful main water shutoff. LOL
I got nervous. I'm new to the channel and watching old videos. I saw the sMe thing and went to the comment section before I jumped the gun. You see white 12/2 and black 12/2 in old houses in NC
If the previous owner mistakenly used the white wire for HOT while used the black wire for NEUTRAL, can/should I just continue to use the white for HOT (brass color screw) and black for NEUTRAL (silver color screw) when add an outlet downstream? (rewiring and correcting the polarity all the way back to the power panel is too much work!)
Thanks.
Highly highly doubt they put the neutral in the breaker and hot in the neutral bus bar at the panel. They most likely just wired the receptacle wrong. So no, you should not continue to use white for hot. Definitely fix it.
Use a meter to check which wires are hot. Very unlikely they would put the white wire on the circuit breaker and the black wire on the bus bar. Once you have used a meter to verify, you just wire it up correctly.
Can we use a 15amp outlet on 20amp breaker?
See: Shall I Use a 15A or a 20A Receptacle on a 20A Circuit? + 2020 NEC 210.21(B)(1) and 210.21(B)(3): ua-cam.com/video/-0zqSWEryOE/v-deo.html
Yes. Most of the time.
Good stuff!
Thanks!
Do you use Noalox or Dielectric grease on the terminal screws? I always get get corrosion. I recently started putting silicone around the edge and on top of the outlet box. I also applied some Noalox on the screws. I emailed Noalox manufacturer and they said it was OK to use.
Nice work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you
You're welcome!
I have a 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire, but I used a 15 amp GFCI. Is that OK? The gfci is on a house wall and feeds my backyard shed. Inside my shed, I have a 20 amp GFCI outlet that is used for my pool pump. I used a 15 amp gfci because Home Depot didn't have any 20amp. I never plug anything large in my yard. My pool pump is only a 1/3 HP and called for either a 15 amp or 20 amp circuit.
How can you tell if you need a 20 or 15 amp?
Of course you will identify in the main panel the circuit breaker for the circuit doing any work. When you identify that breaker to de energize the circuit note the label on the breaker. It will either be a "15" or a "20" for a circuit such as you are describing. Match the amperage rating of the device (here a GFCI receptacle) to the rating on the circuit breaker for that circuit.
DO NOT USE A 20 AMP RATED DEVICE, EITHER SWITCH OR RECEPTACLE, ON A CIRCUIT CONTROLLED BY A 15 AMP BREAKER.
Make sure your breaker is rated for 20a and that all the wires on it's circuit are the right gauge for 20a.
The amp draw is dictated by wire size. 15 amp is 14ga wire. A 20 amp circuit uses 12ga wire. You do not want to put a 20 amp fuse/breaker on a 14ga circuit.
@@jimmclaughlin8195 You can't always rely on the breaker size as a determining factor. For example, when I first bought my home someone had wired a 14ga/15 amp circuit to a 20 amp breaker. My remote garage is wired in all 12ga, but someone installed 15 amp receptacles. The breaker and receptacles need to be determined by the wire size. 15 amp for 14ga, and 20 amp for 12ga. You can legally install a 15 amp device on a 20 amp circuit, but then it's derated. You CANNOT (legally) install a 20 amp breaker/device to a 15 amp circuit.
@@news_internationale2035 *Per the NEC that's 12ga for a 20a circuit, and 14ga for a 15a circuit.
That looked like 14-2 romex being its white like the normal NM 14-2 and it also looked like thinner copper as youd find for 14-2
Romex from the early 90's had white for both 12-2 and 14-2
@@dudeman650 That's true. It was white 12/2 with ground. 90's style.
@@dudeman650 huh didnt know that haven't come across it yet. I saw the cloth, knob and tube, old bx, aluminum wiring etc not that yet. Thank you for sharing that.
I'm incompetent should I try to do this?
No. Try politics instead.
Study a lot about this. Do dry test runs assembling and disassembling new disconnected outlet equipment as practice.
Not with that attitude!! Don't be so hard on yourself. You can do it!!
Stucco patch takes too long. Anchoring epoxy sets in seconds and looks just as bad.
Thanks!
Lol
20A GFCI receptacle with a 20A Circuit Breaker with a Romex that is actually 14 AWG wire, not 12 AWG wire due to the white color Romex. 12 AWG is yellow in color
That wire is 12 gauge Romex in a white sheath. That is the way 12 gauge wire was in the 90's.
Sparky Channel Thanks for the knowledge!
@@hectormorales6175 No problem, thanks!
No, the jacket color is not standardized. It sore looked like 12 to me.
Forget about the color, read the information on the cable or check the breaker or use a wire gauge to verify. They didn’t use color codes in the past for 12 gauge and 14 gauge and so forth.
I consider that tool more of a potential reader than a voltage reader.
Well you're wrong...😆
Thx
No problem.
A 20 amp receptacle is not required if there is more than one place to plug in something. A duplex receptacle has two places to plug in so it is allowed to use a 15 amp receptacle. It is very rare that you need a 20 amp configured receptacle in a dwelling.
So right. I have been in my house over 45 years and never had to use a 20 amp male 120 volt plug. Don't waste you money on 20 amp receptacles.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp You must not be powering any significant loads. Try running a space heater or a window unit off a 15 amp circuit. The cost of a 20 amp circuit vs. a 15 amp circuit is minimal, but there are distinct advantages to having 20 amp circuits. The new NEC requires tamper resistant receptacles on ALL new installs. When I rewired my 1950 house I planned ahead and used 14-2 for the lighting, and 12-2 for the receptacles throughout the house.
@@im2yys4u81 Just trying to state why spend more on a 20 amp duplex receptacle when a 15 amp duplex will do a good job. Starting at least 40 years ago always ran #12 type NM-B cable ( no such thing as Romex in NEC ) to all residential & commerical locations. I never waste money on 20 amp duplex receptacles. The halve dozen different brands of 15 & 20 amp duplex receptacle that I have taken apart always had the exact same parts, same thickness on metal. There are a lot of exceptions in the halve millon word electricians Bible ( NEC book ) .You can use #14 guage wires to a single ( not a duplex ) receptacle and be perfectly legal to have it feed from a 20 amp circuit breaker. Example would be to feed a motor such as an air compressor that the high inrush Amps ( LRA = Locked rotor Amps ) much trip a 15 amp breaker during start ups. While attending numerous IAEI continuing education classes somebody would ask 3 inspectors the same question and get 3 caring answers
@@im2yys4u81 No was told that you do not need a TR receptacle for any receptacles mounted over 7' above the floor such as garage door opener receptacles mounted on ceilings, click receptacles ( have not installed one if these dinosaurs in over 45 years ) and maybe some microwave receptacles mounted inside a kitchen cabinet . At a continuing education class somebody asked if you needed a TR receptacle on a roof that was there for required receptacle. required within 25' of air conditioning equipment. Inspector no if it was only able to be accessible from an extension ladder.
Wrapped with electrical tape? Why? Plastic box and all the wires in the box are securely attached to the back of the receptacle. I don't get it!
Doesnt hurt
I know that very confusing, because sometime wire touch other wire them trick breaker…
Or someone when remove the cover then get shot by electricity no reason.
What happened to me, what ever when I remove cover from receptacle then I get shot by electrical and when I plug in then I got shot again like 5 time… also we don’t have a tape on it
Now I wrapping tape around receptacle everywhere then more safe
Not really needed, but is a must when you use metal boxes
😎🍻🍺
Cheers with a beer from San Diego!
What you've been looking for the PU Chemical for your this waterproof junction box gasket foam with Waterproof and fireproofing function, should be here ua-cam.com/video/7aqSaacMbhg/v-deo.html
Nothing is better than checking wires if they are alive multiple times 🙄.
Just do not touch the bare wires.
Yes, safety first!
For some reason, my body is not conducive to electricity, so even if I touch live wires, nothing happens. 🤷 Science needs to study me.
when you say "shouldn't" you don't really know 100%?? playing dangerously eh.... Oh, Ok your testing it more thoroughly with it disassembled.
Thanks!
God i love listening and watching a PRO instead of some no brain 20 year old that just left his mommys bedroom but thinks he knows everything. :) Just like i was when i was 20! lol
LOL, thanks so much Anthony! :)