How to Install Slab Insulation and Vapour Barrier - Drum Studio Garden Room Build - Part 10
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- In this video I am completing the final jobs needed before I can start plaster boarding. I install 2 layers of sound absorbent Rockwool insulation in the walls and ceiling, the electric and multimedia cabling and the vapour barrier.
Materials
Rockwool RWA45 Acoustic Insulation -
www.insulation...
Vapour barrier - www.screwfix.c...
Aluminium foil tape - www.amazon.co....
Electric cabling for lighting, sockets
HDMI and network cabling
Cable clips
Tools
Hand saw
Staple gun
Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks Niall! Should have the next one up on Monday
Nice work.
Thanks!
Do you only need an air gap on the roof? Can the rockwool be tight to the walls?
Hi! Great video. I was wondering where your wiring enters your shed. Thanks!
Thanks Yousuf! If you pause the video at 2:10 you can see the cables coming up through the floor/studwork in the corner by the window in centre of the screen. 1 pipe is for the armoured cable for the electrics and the other is for the network and tv cable. ua-cam.com/video/4HUPtvRvVW4/v-deo.html
Hi thank you for the great detailed videos. Just a quick question also more wondering about the insulation you packed up again the flat roof. I noticed you pushed it hard up against the roof, shouldn't there be a gap to allow for airflow from the vents you added? Thank you
Hi Shaun, thanks for the comment. The insulation isn’t packed up against the flat roof. As you rightly said there needs to be a airflow gap. I used 125mm joists with 75mm insulation which was flush to the bottom of the joists, giving me a 50mm gap for the airflow which is about the minimum you want. Hope that clarifies things! Thanks
Hi great video mate. I want to insulate my summer house. I didn't think you needed a vapour barrier with rockwool as it's water resistant? Thanks
Hi Liam, thanks for the comment. Rockwool by itself won’t provide a vapour barrier, only the foil backed version will (which I didn’t use). Even then, you will still need to seal all of the joins with foil tape. The vapour barrier pvc sheets are a quicker and cheaper way to go with better certainty that you have no air leaks
@@leejmurphy My joists are 60mm deep so my plan was the wedge in 50mm rockwool, leaving an air gap of 10mm before putting the plasterboard on top. Will this be ok do you think? I'm a novice with DIY haha
@@liampardoe2877 yep that would be fine 👍🏻
Great video thanks for sharing. Can I ask if you are making a cold roof and leaving some ventilation above the insulation? Thanks
Hi Owen, thanks for your comment, glad you enjoyed the video. Yes I have made a cold roof. The joists are 125mm, with 75mm insulation, so there is a gap of 50mm above the insulation. I have an overhang on each end with air vents, so the air can circulate over the top
@@leejmurphy great thanks for getting back to me. I’m looking forward to getting some more tips from your next video. Thanks again
@@owenpickrell2834 No problem!
Hi Lee, thanks so much for all your videos - so invaluable to me and everyone else planning similar projects! I'd like to ask about the ventilation as I am in the planning stages of my build....I see that you have holes either end in the roof for air circulation above the roof insulation. I wondered firstly whether you feel that has compromised the sound isolation and if so, whether you just accepted that was a compromise you'd have to make in your planning stage?
Also, (and forgive me if I have missed this detail in your videos), how do you ensure that the 'inner wall/ceiling' layer of insulation doesn't accumulate any damp/moisture from the cavity between the inner and outer wall? Thank you. Adam
Hi Adam, thanks very much for your message. Glad you have found the videos useful. With the ventilation I haven't found any noticeable sound leakage. You'll see in one of my videos I made a sound maze which I think has had a huge impact on preventing sound from coming out. It has been on my list for a while, but I do plan to go around the room and measure the audible sound from outside at these different points to see what the evidence says. Regarding the damp/moisture point, there is a vapour barrier on the inside behind the plasterboard which stops moisture from getting in from the inside. On the outside there is a breathable waterproof membrane which stops water getting in, but allows air to move in and out. This combination should prevent any water from getting in the cavity, and if any does, it would be minimal, and should be able to dry out due to the breather membrane. Hope this helps! Lee
Great video. One thing I have been wondering as I have also been looking as this sound insulation to reduce noise is what is the thermal property of this insulation? I have seen other projects where they would use a layer of standard thermal insulation and then the sound insulation. Aren't you worried that your room will be cold as sound insulation does not provide the same level of thermal insulation? Interested in your thought, thanks
Hi Frederic, that's a great question. For me fundamentally I am not concerned no, and in fact I have been very impressed with how cool the room has been in the summer months and how well it retains heat in the winter.
I'm using Rockwool RWA45 75mm slabs which have a thermal conductivity of 0.035 w/mk. I have two layers so 150mm thickness in total. When I work out the r-value for this it would be 4.29 m2k/w. If you were to compare this to something like 100mm celotex which is very commonly used in garden rooms with a single 2x4 exterior wall, it typically has an r-value of 4.50 m2k/w. So for me a marginal difference. If I was using just 1 layer, then yes I would be more concerned about the effectiveness of the sound absorption and heat retention.
There is an element of additional thermal protection provided by the 30mm of sound proof plasterboard to take into account if you were to work out the true values for the building construction. Hope that helps!
@@leejmurphy thank you for taking the time to answer and the additional information, much appreciated. Based on your information it might be more of concerned to me as I was planning to do a garage partial conversation for home theater room but did not plan to make the separated wall as thick. So it seems it will need to trade thermal versus sound insulation.
Hi @@fredericguyon1449 , you mentioned a separating wall, are you planning on building an internal wall in the garage and converting the other half to a theatre room? Is the room connected to the house? What’s your primary concern, sound leaking into the home or sound leaking externally?
Hi Lee, my garage is attached to my house and it is one of those timber house so the garage is all finished as well (plasterboard and painted). Therefore I have planned to convert all of the garage into a home theatre room as I do not use the garage for the car but my motorbike. I have looked at a lot of videos on sound insulation as my house is rubbish for this. However the garage is on the opposite side to my neighbour so there will be some insulation but the garage door is not well insulated so any noise and cold will go through this. I want to keep the wall minimal hence thinking to go for 75 studs so I need to trade off thermal versus noise for tthe insulation as it seems that a good thermal insulation is not as good for sound insulation as a good noise insulation and vice versa. Hence for my question
Hi @@fredericguyon1449 , thanks for your reply. Are you planning on separating the space so that you can still open the garage door on the other side or are you looking to put the wall right up against the garage door so that it turns into more into a facade? I ask because I have also converted half of my garage into a living space and the wall in the middle separating the space from the garage had to meet specific building regs (needed fireproof insulation, fireproof plasterboard and had to be plastered). All this even though the garage space left behind isn’t big enough for a car! Just wanted to mention it in case this is what you are thinking on doing as if you find yourself in my situation it will influence the materials you must use and you might consider consulting a building regs inspector to be sure.
OMG STOP! with the fast forwarding video effects, its annoying, we people here on youtube KNOW how to move things forward!!