We are in Canada just above North Dakota. So we experience a great deal of frost heave. We like to lay our rebar out in grids 16" square. We also like running a double row of heat tubing around the perimeter. We make recommendations to the customer but at the end of the day we do as the customer asks.
@Bondo Built in Canada the cold tries to creep in from the sides, creating a cold floor along the edge. The thinking is the heat will keep the frost away.
Do you have anywhere I could see pics of how you suggest it should be done in canada ? I have a friend in Alberta who plans on building a 40 x60 poll barn and would really appreciate any advise on how it should be done right the first time.
Wow great insulation, just thought I'd mention that its about 45psi (325 kpa) air pressure which is perfect. Just thought I'd mention, if you pressurized to 300psi that would be danagerous. Yah bar chairs and am a fan of the staples, if the right price, it way easier. Great job all good info, happy new year to you and the crew. Cheers from Oz
About 46 psi, which is just about right. You would not want to go much over 50 psi, while pouring the concrete. Thanks for the good video. I did not know that spray foam would work on the ground so well.
I did yell at the Sean the one driver that was trying to train a guy in the middle of the pour. Lol I asked nice like 3 times then I yells get in the truck sean. Lol didn't catch that on video. Lol 😂
I wonder if you can get those staples with a riser built into them to get the tubing off the foam so you get concrete all the way around them to be more efficient and have the heat being wasted up against the spray foam. Love the channel Bondo! Watching your crew joke and work as a team is one thing I missed when I left the trades.
That’s the staple system I use, I use a 12’ block with a 3’ handle on it to keep the pipe straight. Just butt the block to your last row and go! And the tool used with the staples is pretty slick too. Love the conveyor, no one in my area has one and I really wish they would!
WHAT UP BONDO? Nice barn! It's been nice in indiana! Only 2 times below freezing this year, guess what buddy? just hit 1k subs! Super excited! I want to talk to u about something how can I get ahold of u?
Hi buddy Happy New Year. Congratulate on the 1000 subs that's a huge milestone my friend. I was so stoked when I hit it. You can friend request me on Facebook and then message me.
Instead of adding water, you should add a water reducing plasticizer. I poured a patio with the same issues and we started with a 4 slump but it pours like a 6. It was very easy to finish. YOu just have to be on task and not waste time.
Need header for individual heat run loops.that way if tube starts to leak from excavator cracking concrete you can turn off loop and still have rest of floor heated.
Great videos. Very helpful. I am planning a 30' × 40' pole shop. I have been thinking it might be easier to pour the slab first. A foot or so smaller all the way around the perimeter. And finish the cement work after the building is up. I am wondering if you have tried this or have any insight.
If I was going to do the slab first I would use Sono tubes and wet set Perma Column post brackets in the Sono tubes. Then backfill and tamp everything and prep and pour the floor. Then bolt the 6X6 in and build your structure. Much better than wood in the ground also.
It’s a actually around 48 psi… We test to 100psi and from my experience of 15+ years in the plumbing field those gauges leak when not sealed with Teflon and pipe dope. Hopefully you have no leaks. It’s normal for pressure to drop in with fluctuations in temp, I’d top it off and spray the gauge again just to make sure. Looking good 👍🏼.
Do you get “fiber fuzz” with that a mesh? With a nice smooth finish I’ve seen the quality lack…not sure how pro my installers were…. 300KPA THAT WAS BETWEEN 30 & 40 PSI …. PEOPLE PLEASE DONT TRY TO GET “300PSI” IN YOUR RADIANT TUBJNG (was a misspeak on accident I’m sure) keep it up!
I'm looking at building a pole barn like yours, what is the cost of your barn ? Spray foam, the building and the radiant flooring, then concrete floor ?
Well done. What is the thickness of the closed foam insulation below the radiant pipes? Also do you recommend what is the sequence of putting rebar and radiant pipes? Here I see Rabar over radiant pipes
I think I would want some crushed stone between the shale and the concrete for drainage reasons. But You may want to ask others because we really don't have shale around my area.
One concrete guy said the fibers can be a problem for bare feet. Another showed using a weed burner to nip the fibers back. Did you do anything to this pour for the fibers sticking up?
Hey Bondo, I really enjoy watching all your videos. I recently poured my basement slab, installed spray foam and installed the radiant heat system with red pex. 3 400' loops. After we poured it, I realized the supplier sold us the wrong pex. Is there a system I can use on this pex that will work or am I completely out of luck?
I assume you mean oxygen barrier pex? 400’ is a bit long, what diameter pipe? Good news it will work fine but just keep an eye on the water treatment inhibitors? I have seen all sorts of pipe buried in slabs for hydronic heating over years.
If it is non Oxygen barrier pex I would just not use a cast iron boiler or it will rust the boiler. Use a stainless steel water heater or boiler. If it is a non pressurized open system wood boiler it won't make a difference. With the proper pump the 400 feet will heat great if you have a well insulated structure.
Thank you for the good information. I feel a lot better about the fact that I can still use the non oxygen barrier pex I installed. I guess I need to keep an eye on water treatment levels and make sure the don't get out of line.
Uuuhhhh spray foam under the concrete?? What psi is it? The foam board you use under a floor for radiant heat is extremely rigid, do they make foam like that for spraying? Or maybe you don't plan to ever drive anything on that floor?? Also I've never seen anyone pour a floor from the center out, very strange.
Most 2# closed cell spray foam matches or exceeds foam board compressive strength ratings. Plus, it forms to the grade instead of laying flat then compressing down when weight is added (concrete).
I just fired my boiler up! ran my tubing with your method. 1700 sq ft.. Went from 42 to 60 in about 18 hrs. I love it!
Awesome. Once you get it up to temp it will hold for a long time if the building is insulated properly.
Great to have good teams Bondo. Thanks for the content.
We are in Canada just above North Dakota. So we experience a great deal of frost heave. We like to lay our rebar out in grids 16" square. We also like running a double row of heat tubing around the perimeter. We make recommendations to the customer but at the end of the day we do as the customer asks.
Sounds like a strong floor with the rebar. I do just the opposite putting extra heat if wanted near the center so it won't be lost to the outside.
@Bondo Built in Canada the cold tries to creep in from the sides, creating a cold floor along the edge. The thinking is the heat will keep the frost away.
Do you have anywhere I could see pics of how you suggest it should be done in canada ? I have a friend in Alberta who plans on building a 40 x60 poll barn and would really appreciate any advise on how it should be done right the first time.
Wow great insulation, just thought I'd mention that its about 45psi (325 kpa) air pressure which is perfect.
Just thought I'd mention, if you pressurized to 300psi that would be danagerous.
Yah bar chairs and am a fan of the staples, if the right price, it way easier.
Great job all good info, happy new year to you and the crew.
Cheers from Oz
Thanks buddy. I did think 300 was a lot of pressure. The staples held great in the spray foam. Did not pop even one. Happy New Year.
You guys are awesome
Thanks Chip.
About 46 psi, which is just about right. You would not want to go much over 50 psi, while pouring the concrete. Thanks for the good video. I did not know that spray foam would work on the ground so well.
Really appreciate your calmness under tough conditions. Of course I am not there to hear what actually is being said🤭
I did yell at the Sean the one driver that was trying to train a guy in the middle of the pour. Lol I asked nice like 3 times then I yells get in the truck sean. Lol didn't catch that on video. Lol 😂
I wonder if you can get those staples with a riser built into them to get the tubing off the foam so you get concrete all the way around them to be more efficient and have the heat being wasted up against the spray foam. Love the channel Bondo! Watching your crew joke and work as a team is one thing I missed when I left the trades.
Thanks Robert. We do have fun. Not sure on those staples though. Lol
Beautiful work thumbs up and shared. Happy New Year and ALL the BEST for 2022. 😎 🗽
Thanks Richard. Happy New Year.
Thats going to be a nice shed, good job
Thanks Andy.
The shine on that slab is quite nice. ;)
That’s the staple system I use, I use a 12’ block with a 3’ handle on it to keep the pipe straight. Just butt the block to your last row and go! And the tool used with the staples is pretty slick too.
Love the conveyor, no one in my area has one and I really wish they would!
Do you have a link to this staple system since i am still using zip ties on wire mesh??
@@Nick33779 not sure why it won’t let me share it, but it’s a Malco foam board stapler.
@@michaelmaas5544 ty
WHAT UP BONDO? Nice barn! It's been nice in indiana! Only 2 times below freezing this year, guess what buddy?
just hit 1k subs! Super excited! I want to talk to u about something how can I get ahold of u?
Hi buddy Happy New Year. Congratulate on the 1000 subs that's a huge milestone my friend. I was so stoked when I hit it. You can friend request me on Facebook and then message me.
Judging by the way it looks after mopping it is settin up pretty good
Yes sir it dried nice for this time of the year.
very nice job bondo greaat work
Thanks I appreciate that.
Instead of adding water, you should add a water reducing plasticizer. I poured a patio with the same issues and we started with a 4 slump but it pours like a 6. It was very easy to finish. YOu just have to be on task and not waste time.
I have used super plasticizer. They don't carry it on the trucks though. It is easy to finish.
That’s my dad and his crew 💙 I’m his daughter !
Another one for the books. On the next job. Thanks
Super impressive
Thanks I appreciate that.
Have you ever experienced the fumes from slamador causing problems with the surface finish?
No I have not but we don't pour much in the winter.
The fumes will like rubberize the surface of the concrete. When that happens it really affects the strength and finish qualities!
Need header for individual heat run loops.that way if tube starts to leak from excavator cracking concrete you can turn off loop and still have rest of floor heated.
Awesome job guy's
What kind of tubing is this? Like for the water radiant heating systems? Can you do the same with copper wires before a pour? Or only the water ones?
Great videos. Very helpful.
I am planning a 30' × 40' pole shop. I
have been thinking it might be easier to pour the slab first. A foot or so smaller all the way around the perimeter. And finish the cement work after the building is up.
I am wondering if you have tried this or have any insight.
If I was going to do the slab first I would use Sono tubes and wet set Perma Column post brackets in the Sono tubes. Then backfill and tamp everything and prep and pour the floor. Then bolt the 6X6 in and build your structure. Much better than wood in the ground also.
Ampex holds the pex without staples or tieing to ww mesh For heavy vehicles put Helix in the mix not fibre, replaces rebar
It’s a actually around 48 psi… We test to 100psi and from my experience of 15+ years in the plumbing field those gauges leak when not sealed with Teflon and pipe dope.
Hopefully you have no leaks. It’s normal for pressure to drop in with fluctuations in temp, I’d top it off and spray the gauge again just to make sure.
Looking good 👍🏼.
Thanks good info. We have no leaks.
99.99% of the time its the test rig that leaks
How long do you recommend waiting after pouring concrete before turning on in floor heat? I am in the northeast. Thanks
I would wait like 3 weeks
Do you get “fiber fuzz” with that a mesh? With a nice smooth finish I’ve seen the quality lack…not sure how pro my installers were…. 300KPA THAT WAS BETWEEN 30 & 40 PSI …. PEOPLE PLEASE DONT TRY TO GET “300PSI” IN YOUR RADIANT TUBJNG (was a misspeak on accident I’m sure) keep it up!
Did you seriously bust that block apart right on top of the pex tubing? Come on bro...
I'm looking at building a pole barn like yours, what is the cost of your barn ? Spray foam, the building and the radiant flooring, then concrete floor ?
This was not my barn I just did the concrete floor pour.
Well done. What is the thickness of the closed foam insulation below the radiant pipes? Also do you recommend what is the sequence of putting rebar and radiant pipes? Here I see Rabar over radiant pipes
There is 2" of closed cell foam under the slab for R-14.
Great job can you pour concrete over shale base
I think I would want some crushed stone between the shale and the concrete for drainage reasons. But You may want to ask others because we really don't have shale around my area.
Nice work. After you cut the slab did you pressure wash or just blow the dust out with a blower?
Yep it should heat easily
What R value does adding spray foam under add
One concrete guy said the fibers can be a problem for bare feet. Another showed using a weed burner to nip the fibers back.
Did you do anything to this pour for the fibers sticking up?
The fibers will come off on a smooth finish like this with the power trowel. Also these were small fine fibers not the big ones.
What kind of boiler are they going to use?
Hey Bondo, I really enjoy watching all your videos. I recently poured my basement slab, installed spray foam and installed the radiant heat system with red pex. 3 400' loops. After we poured it, I realized the supplier sold us the wrong pex. Is there a system I can use on this pex that will work or am I completely out of luck?
I assume you mean oxygen barrier pex?
400’ is a bit long, what diameter pipe?
Good news it will work fine but just keep an eye on the water treatment inhibitors?
I have seen all sorts of pipe buried in slabs for hydronic heating over years.
If it is non Oxygen barrier pex I would just not use a cast iron boiler or it will rust the boiler. Use a stainless steel water heater or boiler. If it is a non pressurized open system wood boiler it won't make a difference. With the proper pump the 400 feet will heat great if you have a well insulated structure.
@@pulporock Good info thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the good information. I feel a lot better about the fact that I can still use the non oxygen barrier pex I installed. I guess I need to keep an eye on water treatment levels and make sure the don't get out of line.
2 inches on the walls ain't nearly enough ! 3.5 inches minimum on my buildings !!
You would have to talk to Kyle and Son insulation about that. They sprayed it and it is there building also.
Hi, would you be able to link those staples? Thank you.
How come you didn’t call the plant and tell them to space it?
Damn, 3 different concrete companies there for 50 yards?
No it was all Circle T
Did the nice neighbor give you a hand today
No way Ed. LOl. He can't handle this work. LOL
what happened to the troughs you built?
we put tape over the trench drain before the pour if that's what you mean?
Uuuhhhh spray foam under the concrete?? What psi is it? The foam board you use under a floor for radiant heat is extremely rigid, do they make foam like that for spraying? Or maybe you don't plan to ever drive anything on that floor??
Also I've never seen anyone pour a floor from the center out, very strange.
Most 2# closed cell spray foam matches or exceeds foam board compressive strength ratings. Plus, it forms to the grade instead of laying flat then compressing down when weight is added (concrete).
Most foam boards used under concrete pours are 25 PSI compressive strength. This spray foam is rated at 34 PSI compressive strength.
As a homeowner I would have rejected it
Tough call we needed that first truck to place all the concrete being it was a conveyer.
Wow no bleed water.
Keep rubbing that concrete maybe a beer genie will show up
ADD 10 MORE!!! Lol (water that is) if you know….you know…
50bs is what it looks like
Why dont you like pole barns
I do not like the wood posts in the ground. If they are built with wood on post brackets then I like them fine.
Thats my plan. On steel in cement sono tubes. Keep up the great work
What’s wrong with pole barns
Wood rots in the ground. now days manufacturers offer other options like concrete post in the ground.
@@AndyFromm Thanks again Andy. My thoughts exactly.
The wood in ground not good. Wood belongs above ground.
Come on Bondo 300 psi lol
300 kpa equals 43.5 psi
LOL I didn't do the tubing. I thought it was 300. LOL
@@AndyFromm Thanks Andy. My bad. LOL
My back is sore just from watching the video
The guy who was stuck in the mud is a tool 🤦🏼♂️
We got it done that's all that counts. Lol 😆
That’s my dad and his crew 💙 I’m his daughter !