You may think that this content is a little boring because this is what you do. Many of us DIY'rs haven't seen a process like this! Thank You! Even though it looks simple, experience working with it makes it that way. Probably not as easy as you make it look.Oh yeah I subbed too. I felt like I was on the jobsite with you guys just watching.
So this is an interesting approach, but honestly I think the way they do it in the nordic countries is better. The contain the entire slab in foam, including the edge beams, and pour it in one go. There's a couple of ways to do this in USA, usually DIY, but there's a few companies that do forms for it like WarmForm. That way the load is spread out like with a normal footer, too. Edit: Also with this solution I'd think that even for a single story house you'd want 10 or 12" core at this pseudofooting to spread the load more. Unless I'm totally off target on what you're going for. Looking forward to next video haha
What’s the compressive strength of that black foam? My only thought is that’ll cause settling if that compresses under the weight of the concrete. Still fun to watch!
I wasn't sure where you were headed with this. You sparked my curiosity. I'm not totally convinced that this is the way to go yet. I think it'll probably work ok, but I just like the tried and true method of having the foundation sitting on top of a wider footer. It distibutes the weight of the house. I do love you work and videos. You do excellent work. You may be pioneering a new way to do it. Thanks!
i wounder how strong the foam is when putting 10-20m of contrecte on top? hm... we put the walls directly on the fondation and had a floating floor inside.
With all due respect, I would want my ICF sitting on a concrete footer. I have personally noticed some of these foams that have been pumped under concrete and the concrete eventually settled lower. That would be my big question about having ICF blocks sitting on top of this foam. I just would not trust it. However, thoroughly enjoy your videos and your hard work and determination.... Something we need more of in this country!
The monolitihic slab will be setting on the ground directly and hold up the stem wall, in the worst case scenario. The stem walls will not be able to move downward.
Code requires a minimum 12"w x 6"d footings here in NY. I don't know how this would ever pass an inspection. I've been a builder for 27 years and we're never allowed to not have some kind of footing unless the icf form itself is wide enough to meet the footing requirements. I guess we'll see.
@@kevinhornbuckle And you don't know what NY building codes are. Monolithic slabs still need footing unless an engineer approves otherwise, and no engineer I've ever dealt with has ever speced a no footing slab. Even mono-pour garages get a footing.
I can personally vouch on how compacted the gravel is. We used pick axes and a jack hammer to open the gravel up to install the drain lines. And the concrete floor hasn't cracked.
I think i am going to have to reserve judgement on this until its completed, but so far it seems like someone is trying to reinvent the wheel & im not convinced. I appreciate you don't always get to choose what system a client or main contractor users though & just do what you're contracted to do.
As building materials such as Concrete and Labor gets more expensive sadly many builders will cut corners and may claim a poured footer is not necessary. But as we all saw in the video the bottoms of the ICF blocks had layer of foam placed inside of them and that form will compress from the structural compression load. I see a future of uneven walls and sagging floors along with constant sheet rock nail pops. The structure in this case is only being supported by the 6 inch wide sliver of concrete inside of the ICF blocks. The moisture in the ground (since it is near a wetlands area) will only exasperate the sinking and settling problems. No Thanks.
That foam locking the icf to the ground was so cool. That is going to be so air tight. I am looking into building a house in Florida and I really liked that use of the closed cell foam. I might spray a termite treatment below the icf form and the 2’ out in both direction to prevent the sub terrainian termites
I've built slab on grade before, twice. I'm looking forward to seeing more of this concept. I'm finding it hard to see any advantage at the moment. Our shallow slab foundations were poured in a single step. Heated floor in there, so lots of prep before the pour, but I can see how you plan to support the middle of the slab?
If you don't have a spray foam gun, it is worth the investment. You have a lot more control. They cost about 70 bucks. Don't buy a 'looks like spray foam gun'. You will need a can of spray foam cleaner to clean the gun. I was told that you can leave the gun filled with foam as long as you shut the valve and leave a can on the gun, but that has definitely not worked for me. I clean the gun as soon as I am done with it.
From experience you can leave the gun for about a week before it starts to gum up. Then you plug in the cleaner. You con't need to finish a can in order to pull the can off and run the cleaner. When you run the cleaner, it doesn't do much, but just leave the can connected, and put it aside for 10 minutes. When you pick it up next the cleaner will have done its work, and a bunch of gunk comes out. Repeat until the cleaner comes out of the nozzle after a 10 minute wait. My current project is insulating 5 shipping containers with rigid foam. I have a gun of foam construction adhesive, a gun of spray foam, and a 400 board foot 2 part froth pack.
wow, never seen this before, really good idea! When i built my house i used in metric 10cm 15 concrete 10cm - if id do it again id use the new blocks that has 20cm outside 15 concrete 10cm inside to make a passive house. Really good idea to do it like this!
This is brilliant, great time and money saver for monolithic slab on grade while reaping the benefits of ICF. Noticed a lot of commenters don't quite understand this process. Maybe you can explain it to them in your next video. Great work, as always. I may borrow this idea on my next slab build.
This is built incorrectly and doesn't meet code. No footings is a big no-no and won't pass inspection here in NY, even slab on grade needs a footing. There are ICF companies that make a form just for mono-pour slabs, there's no need to go outside already engineered products.
@sailingwiththegods538 Mono-slab with a just a thickened perimeter counts as a footing in most jurisdictions. This method would be better than that. Also geological location and house size (likely single story) are factors of consideration. He's clearly working off an approved plan. If both sides of fox-blocks are sub grade and slab to wall connection is tied with rebar well, I don't see the problem and wouldn't have an issues if it was my house, and I'm a 25+ year home builder myself.
@@ronlovell5374 No engineer I've ever dealt with speced a slab with no footing. 403.1(1) for NY says monolithic slabs still need a footing, unless stamped otherwise, and footings are a minimum of 12"w x 6" h and only get bigger from there, even on bedrock. No engineer is going to put their liability on the line for a simple footing. I've been building in NY for 27 years, I know the code, I read it almost daily. I'd like to see the stamped plans for this slab.
There seems to be a great deal of debate of whether or not there should be a footer. I would be very interested to hear an engineer’s perspective on how to get this to pass inspection. One needs to remember the building code is a guideline, but ultimately a professional engineer can produce an alternative design that meets or exceeds building code requirements. As others have noted, precast and treated wood foundations can be built on compacted gravel without a footing.
I've seen this done once. They was using them fox blocks to make a 9 foot wall's for some tiny homes. I think this video was very interesting to me to see how it all goes together 😮.
What is the compressive strength of the spray foam used under your blocks?? I believe that not using a traditional footing under these blocks is inviting a future failure.
Very interesting. Wood stakes certainly way cheaper than steel stakes. will be interesting to see what if any movement you get during the pour. Is there horizontal rebar in this wall? Confused by how much if any is in there. Using a micro rebar replacement instead mixed into the concrete?
Nuttiest thing I've ever seen! You do good work but this is crazy. Also dont believe in the 2' lateral insulation in being half of your frost depth. Not in my house! Tried and true is just that for a reason.
I have seen something similar with regard to monolith slab, cutting the front of the foam ICF so slab and perimeter are one. I have not see done with the spray foam holding in place Do not really see the need for the bottom foam, is it for thermal break and moisture barrier? All very interesting, I like thinking of ways to improving the process. Cheers from Oz
Thanks Ron for another super-informative video. I'm putting in a Barndominium on a monolithic slab and this is a really interesting idea that I'll have to show my engineer. Every time I'm doing concrete work I think What Would Bondo Do?
Regarding the footer, to begin with, I am not a structural engineer, but the number of decades in this business, I learned a lot of stuff. I do think this is an interesting idea that reminds me of how the Superior Walls system works. If the soil conditions are right to get an extreme compaction rate, then you should be in good shape. Like Superior Walls, I would put down at least the same type of stone they require for that top base. Which now becomes another compacted base that should meet the requirements for a footing. For those who have built or have knowledge of the Permeant Wood Foundations (“PWF”), if concrete footing is not specified, they follow basically the same type of procedure. The goal is to get that stone to work as a spread footing. Not to questions Ron’s professionalism and knowledge which I highly respect, as he is rare breed here on UA-cam, I wonder why he did not use a transition block for the bottom course to get even a larger core. Unless Fox Blocks does not have that.
Another key point to remember, that bottom piece of form in the core, should be at least 25psi. I would defiantly check with an engineer if that is enough psi and the level type of the foam. Some folks have switched over to the crushed glass stone to handle the weight. A famous example, the I-95 Bridge collapse in the city of Philadelphia several years ago. They paved right over the glass. BTW: the glass is stone is slightly over an inch thick with an R-1 rating. If you put down 12 inches of glass stone in the area underneath the concrete, you get an R-12 rating. Thanks, Ron, for another exciting video. 😎
Glad you liked the video. This will be a monolithic slab on grade you will see ghat in the next video I cut the inside of the block down and pour it all at the same time. It is not a stem wall. Thanks for the comment. 😊
You said it’s a new process that you developed but that you had never done it before…..I presume you were referring to, for an actual customer. In Florida we build FLOATING foundations where the footer and slab are basically one big unit….floating on the sand. We do not have frost problems….how does your foundation handle or deal with frost problems in Soil?
How about ICF footing then buid up. Using wider ICF block, straight and leveled. Less headaches later. I've never seen anything like that yet. And I am not talking foothold.
Bondo, how high can you build these external wall? Can you go up nine feet and end up with a finished wall that is 8 feet tall or 8 feet 6 inches? I would love to use the Fox system to create a 2,000 square foot basement and a 500 square foot garage? My questions go with your new method project you are doing with Foxblock wall units.
Bondo, why not use a heavy roller compactor that vibrates prior setting the forms so that there will be little chance of settling thus limiting or eliminating cracking of the concrete floor or slab foundation?
With todays ridiculous prices not too many people have the money to build full basements or crawl spaces. This would be a great alternative for us cold climate northerners on a budget.
If it was done an an actual footing it seems it would go super fast.. Just seems to risky to me to do without a simple footing first.. You get your level tight and you can drill and epoxy in anchors drop in extra rebar where eve you need it.. Put turnbuckles to tune your lines.. Bam! Thanks for sharing..
As an actual licensed icf installer and also a licensed spray foam installer, I can tell you that there are countless things wrong with this way of doing things. I, like others on here, am amazed this was even considered by your building department. Just wow.
If there obviously a building wall/roof load, WHY is there not a 24" footing 8" deep on this build???... maybe the permit department did not notice your drawing showed NO footer....so, when they do an inspection before backfilling, they may surprise you by telling you to start over and get a footing under this build.......
Hey Ron, (great name by the way). I had a couple of thoughts. You said you pushed the foam down on the bottom and its resting on the base material. What about using skewers instead of spray foam? The skewers can be pulled and reused, you'll save a ton on sprayfoam, over time, that would add up quick. The other thought was about the block to make up the correct length of the wall. What about driving rebar once length is established, to keep from shifting. Then spanning that distance with your boards. Cut ICF block to fit, secure to the 😮 spray foam the joints? Anyway, "here comes the mud....."!!😅😅
I gotta say, I'm not a fan of this method. For one there's no footings, so the bottom of the wall carries the load, and that's a lot narrower and thus more prone to settling. On top of that, the ground under the forms isn't completely flat and level, so at best the house is bearing on spray foam, and I don't think they got much under the forms. If the foam strips at the bottom were free-floating at least the weight of the concrete would force them tight to the ground. Overall, this method looks to be a lot less stable than your traditional method.
The entire slab carries the load and we pushed that foam down to the bottom before we spray foamed so load goes to the ground. You will understand better in part 2 of video when it all gets poured with the slab. I just visited the build and roof is on and we could not find one crack anywhere. I have seen my other method crack for some reason when floor is poured separate from the stem wall. I think this is actually stronger in good soils or how we put all this gravel in here and compacted it.
@@bondobuilt386 Calling it a mono pour suggests that the floor and walls will be cast as a single piece of concrete, that doesn't appear to be what's setting up here. It might be poured on the same day, but it will be 2 unconnected pieces of concrete. A duo pour if you will: a floor, and a wall with no footings under it that is sitting on foam, and empty space wherever the foam didn't reach.
This is interesting, but not how I would have done it. The lack of a true footer irks me even with the intention of calling it a monolithic slab. I suspect your intention is to treat this a bit like a floating raft slab foundation. I would have laid down foam sheet rated for under footers, then fast foot+icf, then pour, then spray foam the fast foot for a fully insulated monolithic pour.
Hey bondo... long time viewer here and I was wondering if you could do a video on simple footers. Size , width and so forth. I am starting a 24 x24 blog soon and could use your help. I'm in tenn and our freeze line is 12 inches. Thanks and I really appreciate your experience.
Go online and find the building code for your state. It'll give all the info you'll ever need for YOUR state's building codes. Don't rely on some guy on UA-cam.
I saw a post on You Tube about this being done in China. The guy with the hose should have had two "helpers." I'm trying to get somebody in Alaska that I am following to foam the outside of their Quonset hut after doing the inside. At least foam four feet up on the outside (as well as this Deep Foam technique around the foundation outside) to carry the Hydronic heated 10 inch slab in negative 50 degree winter temps. I think you've got something here. Gravel and perforated pipe for perimeter drainage?
The wood stakes create a direct path for termites. Why don't you install your rebar as you go? Why don't you use string lines and batter boards to align your walls?
this gentleman talks so slow that when i put it to 1.75 % that he just starts to sound like when my sister talks, helps me get through the whole video quicker but watch all the content
@bondobuilt386 I have to admit, I have a son that is the hardest worker I know. We are so alike, I have to kind of watch my tongue. Sometimes I kinda "belittle" him, and others, when I step in and "show" them how to do something that I know they already know what to do. Happy crew is a productive crew!
It seems like this wall should be on a footing or At least a sheet of that black 2 inch foam 4 by eights. Right in the middle of the sheet giving crossbarrier from outside. Then drive Rebar into Phone core center. Center time swab to wall ❤? I'm :)Sorry No harm. Meant always enjoy watching your shows.
@@bondobuilt386 No crawl space??? I look forward to seeing it, you guys do good work, nice to see since allot of times I end up fixing a lot of garbage.
i like the concept. No different to medieval construction using a deep gravel bed as a "footing", some stone buildings had wider stone bases to act as a footing. We have to have a concrete footer in our region (coded to a certain size and material) and removing the clips most likely invalidates the manufacturer warranty. Although I've never seen nor heard of anyone claiming warranty on a lego block used in concrete construction. Guess it's the same as mixing dish soap in your drywall mud? lot of pro's do it and never had CGC/USG come back at them.
the clips just hold the blocks together while pouring. not there at all for wall strength. rebar for that. after foaming no need for clips when it dried.
This project would fail Building Control Regulations in the UK. In US you can get away it seems with any mad cap scheme you like! Absolutely nutty. Evidence of a totally inexperienced architect, builder and building governance. Completely NUTS😮
1:27:00 This is a system we are developing ? I just saw that China is making spray more affordable. Concrete for me way below frost and grade then some China foam
frost protected shallow foundations are better in wet soils. keep the building and concrete above the water table it will last longer and the foam will stop frost penetration. not new theory at all.
Why would anyone want to build next to a swamp? I'd use Advantech polyurethane subfloor adhesive, it doesn't swell, goes a very long way per can, and holds like crazy. I don't know how the building dept allows no footings, an 8" footing doesn't meet code in any part of NY. According to table 403.1(1) the minimum footing size is 12"w x 6"d regardless if it's slab on grade or not, unless you're building a PWF or a precast concrete foundation that's placed on washed stone. Edited to add: If this signed off by an engineer then the liability falls to them, but I would never come up with my own "new system" without it being fully engineered. Also, NY building code doesn't allow anything under footings, it has to sit directly on the ground, unless it was specifically designed for that purpose.
We built this in 2 days and did not have the labor of hauling around all that lumber and stripping it off. Also the insulation is in place. It was quite cost effective considering the labor savings.
hind sight being 20/20....don't like the idea of the stakes being left in the ground, foam a section between the stakes, then remove stakes and foam that area.
Hard to judge at this stage. So much more to this than this video shows. Part 2 is when we get it all together and pour the entire slab. Super strong foundation would hold up anywhere even super cold areas of the world. Alaskan slab.
Hope that type K copper was already in that sleeve or that was a waste of time. They will never get that copper past the bends even with a pull string.
You may think that this content is a little boring because this is what you do. Many of us DIY'rs haven't seen a process like this! Thank You! Even though it looks simple, experience working with it makes it that way. Probably not as easy as you make it look.Oh yeah I subbed too. I felt like I was on the jobsite with you guys just watching.
@@walkingthruyourdata-6019 awesome and thank you for that comment 🙂
So this is an interesting approach, but honestly I think the way they do it in the nordic countries is better. The contain the entire slab in foam, including the edge beams, and pour it in one go. There's a couple of ways to do this in USA, usually DIY, but there's a few companies that do forms for it like WarmForm. That way the load is spread out like with a normal footer, too.
Edit: Also with this solution I'd think that even for a single story house you'd want 10 or 12" core at this pseudofooting to spread the load more.
Unless I'm totally off target on what you're going for. Looking forward to next video haha
Looking forward to Part 2 ! Always interested in different perspectives and techniques … 🇨🇦
thank you
What’s the compressive strength of that black foam?
My only thought is that’ll cause settling if that compresses under the weight of the concrete.
Still fun to watch!
I wasn't sure where you were headed with this. You sparked my curiosity. I'm not totally convinced that this is the way to go yet. I think it'll probably work ok, but I just like the tried and true method of having the foundation sitting on top of a wider footer. It distibutes the weight of the house. I do love you work and videos. You do excellent work. You may be pioneering a new way to do it. Thanks!
i wounder how strong the foam is when putting 10-20m of contrecte on top? hm... we put the walls directly on the fondation and had a floating floor inside.
Congrats on 56k Bondo
You really deserve all the good things that are headed your way. Keep up the awesome work 💪
@@EarnYaBonez thank you so much. 😊
With all due respect, I would want my ICF sitting on a concrete footer. I have personally noticed some of these foams that have been pumped under concrete and the concrete eventually settled lower. That would be my big question about having ICF blocks sitting on top of this foam. I just would not trust it. However, thoroughly enjoy your videos and your hard work and determination.... Something we need more of in this country!
Foothold ICF makes a footing which you can get at Home Depot. The ICF blocks can be placed directly on the footing form and poured all at once.
The monolitihic slab will be setting on the ground directly and hold up the stem wall, in the worst case scenario. The stem walls will not be able to move downward.
Code requires a minimum 12"w x 6"d footings here in NY. I don't know how this would ever pass an inspection. I've been a builder for 27 years and we're never allowed to not have some kind of footing unless the icf form itself is wide enough to meet the footing requirements. I guess we'll see.
@ You don’t know what a monolithic slab is.
@@kevinhornbuckle And you don't know what NY building codes are. Monolithic slabs still need footing unless an engineer approves otherwise, and no engineer I've ever dealt with has ever speced a no footing slab. Even mono-pour garages get a footing.
I can personally vouch on how compacted the gravel is. We used pick axes and a jack hammer to open the gravel up to install the drain lines. And the concrete floor hasn't cracked.
Yes that gravel was so compacted. Hard to drive the stakes in. LOL
I think i am going to have to reserve judgement on this until its completed, but so far it seems like someone is trying to reinvent the wheel & im not convinced.
I appreciate you don't always get to choose what system a client or main contractor users though & just do what you're contracted to do.
As building materials such as Concrete and Labor gets more expensive sadly many builders will cut corners and may claim a poured footer is not necessary. But as we all saw in the video the bottoms of the ICF blocks had layer of foam placed inside of them and that form will compress from the structural compression load. I see a future of uneven walls and sagging floors along with constant sheet rock nail pops. The structure in this case is only being supported by the 6 inch wide sliver of concrete inside of the ICF blocks. The moisture in the ground (since it is near a wetlands area) will only exasperate the sinking and settling problems. No Thanks.
@@samgentile7494 you do not understand the finished product. It will make more sense on part 2
Looking forward to Part 2! Great videos! Thanks
That foam locking the icf to the ground was so cool. That is going to be so air tight. I am looking into building a house in Florida and I really liked that use of the closed cell foam. I might spray a termite treatment below the icf form and the 2’ out in both direction to prevent the sub terrainian termites
I've built slab on grade before, twice. I'm looking forward to seeing more of this concept. I'm finding it hard to see any advantage at the moment. Our shallow slab foundations were poured in a single step. Heated floor in there, so lots of prep before the pour, but I can see how you plan to support the middle of the slab?
If you don't have a spray foam gun, it is worth the investment. You have a lot more control. They cost about 70 bucks. Don't buy a 'looks like spray foam gun'. You will need a can of spray foam cleaner to clean the gun. I was told that you can leave the gun filled with foam as long as you shut the valve and leave a can on the gun, but that has definitely not worked for me. I clean the gun as soon as I am done with it.
From experience you can leave the gun for about a week before it starts to gum up. Then you plug in the cleaner. You con't need to finish a can in order to pull the can off and run the cleaner. When you run the cleaner, it doesn't do much, but just leave the can connected, and put it aside for 10 minutes. When you pick it up next the cleaner will have done its work, and a bunch of gunk comes out. Repeat until the cleaner comes out of the nozzle after a 10 minute wait.
My current project is insulating 5 shipping containers with rigid foam. I have a gun of foam construction adhesive, a gun of spray foam, and a 400 board foot 2 part froth pack.
wow, never seen this before, really good idea! When i built my house i used in metric 10cm 15 concrete 10cm - if id do it again id use the new blocks that has 20cm outside 15 concrete 10cm inside to make a passive house. Really good idea to do it like this!
Long Format Videos I’ve Always liked. Thank you for the Video too Bondo👌
@@josephsmith7849 some like them and some don’t. Thank you. 😊
I understand Bondo. Either way u do Quality work n I learn a lot from you.
Thank you again n take care of urself 🤙🔥🇺🇸
@@josephsmith7849 glad you are learning from the videos 👍🏻
This is brilliant, great time and money saver for monolithic slab on grade while reaping the benefits of ICF. Noticed a lot of commenters don't quite understand this process. Maybe you can explain it to them in your next video. Great work, as always. I may borrow this idea on my next slab build.
This is built incorrectly and doesn't meet code. No footings is a big no-no and won't pass inspection here in NY, even slab on grade needs a footing. There are ICF companies that make a form just for mono-pour slabs, there's no need to go outside already engineered products.
@sailingwiththegods538 Mono-slab with a just a thickened perimeter counts as a footing in most jurisdictions. This method would be better than that. Also geological location and house size (likely single story) are factors of consideration. He's clearly working off an approved plan. If both sides of fox-blocks are sub grade and slab to wall connection is tied with rebar well, I don't see the problem and wouldn't have an issues if it was my house, and I'm a 25+ year home builder myself.
@@ronlovell5374 No engineer I've ever dealt with speced a slab with no footing. 403.1(1) for NY says monolithic slabs still need a footing, unless stamped otherwise, and footings are a minimum of 12"w x 6" h and only get bigger from there, even on bedrock. No engineer is going to put their liability on the line for a simple footing. I've been building in NY for 27 years, I know the code, I read it almost daily. I'd like to see the stamped plans for this slab.
There seems to be a great deal of debate of whether or not there should be a footer. I would be very interested to hear an engineer’s perspective on how to get this to pass inspection. One needs to remember the building code is a guideline, but ultimately a professional engineer can produce an alternative design that meets or exceeds building code requirements. As others have noted, precast and treated wood foundations can be built on compacted gravel without a footing.
I've seen this done once. They was using them fox blocks to make a 9 foot wall's for some tiny homes. I think this video was very interesting to me to see how it all goes together 😮.
Love your videos. I’ve learned a ton.
Awesome glad to help.
You treat your guys good. Your a great boss to work for. Thanks👍
Interesting video never really did this method enjoy your hard work and good videos .
@@davidevans474 thanks it worked great. The house is already framed and roof on.
What is the compressive strength of the spray foam used under your blocks?? I believe that not using a traditional footing under these blocks is inviting a future failure.
Be dealing with drywall cracks for many years to come ... sheet rocker will blame the concrete guy and concrete guy will blame the framer
In the end it all comes back to the engineer.
I find it hard to believe that all that weight won't crush that foam on the bottom down over time resulting in an un-level structure.
Very interesting. Wood stakes certainly way cheaper than steel stakes. will be interesting to see what if any movement you get during the pour. Is there horizontal rebar in this wall? Confused by how much if any is in there. Using a micro rebar replacement instead mixed into the concrete?
The whole project would fail Building Control regs in UK. In the US you can do whatever you like and get away with anything!😮
Wondering what are you going to use for waterproofing. peel and stick will not work with foam splashed on walls...
footing ? ? ?
Nuttiest thing I've ever seen! You do good work but this is crazy. Also dont believe in the 2' lateral insulation in being half of your frost depth. Not in my house! Tried and true is just that for a reason.
@@brianharper6838 I think you will understand better after the next video. It’s gonna just be a mono slab. The foam will just be a form.
Do you have a preference between Fox blocks and Nudura ? 🇨🇦
I have seen something similar with regard to monolith slab, cutting the front of the foam ICF so slab and perimeter are one.
I have not see done with the spray foam holding in place
Do not really see the need for the bottom foam, is it for thermal break and moisture barrier?
All very interesting, I like thinking of ways to improving the process.
Cheers from Oz
the foam on bottom is so wall does not pull up cold into it. thanks.
Thanks Ron for another super-informative video. I'm putting in a Barndominium on a monolithic slab and this is a really interesting idea that I'll have to show my engineer. Every time I'm doing concrete work I think What Would Bondo Do?
Awesome thanks
Regarding the footer, to begin with, I am not a structural engineer, but the number of decades in this business, I learned a lot of stuff. I do think this is an interesting idea that reminds me of how the Superior Walls system works. If the soil conditions are right to get an extreme compaction rate, then you should be in good shape.
Like Superior Walls, I would put down at least the same type of stone they require for that top base. Which now becomes another compacted base that should meet the requirements for a footing. For those who have built or have knowledge of the Permeant Wood Foundations (“PWF”), if concrete footing is not specified, they follow basically the same type of procedure. The goal is to get that stone to work as a spread footing.
Not to questions Ron’s professionalism and knowledge which I highly respect, as he is rare breed here on UA-cam, I wonder why he did not use a transition block for the bottom course to get even a larger core. Unless Fox Blocks does not have that.
Another key point to remember, that bottom piece of form in the core, should be at least 25psi. I would defiantly check with an engineer if that is enough psi and the level type of the foam. Some folks have switched over to the crushed glass stone to handle the weight. A famous example, the I-95 Bridge collapse in the city of Philadelphia several years ago. They paved right over the glass. BTW: the glass is stone is slightly over an inch thick with an R-1 rating. If you put down 12 inches of glass stone in the area underneath the concrete, you get an R-12 rating.
Thanks, Ron, for another exciting video.
😎
Glad you liked the video. This will be a monolithic slab on grade you will see ghat in the next video I cut the inside of the block down and pour it all at the same time. It is not a stem wall. Thanks for the comment. 😊
cheers for the new content ron
Thanks.
The Foam Guy needs a Big Wheeled Concrete Buggy with a Vertical Fork mounted to it. Put the Hose across that and just scoot the buggy along.
You said it’s a new process that you developed but that you had never done it before…..I presume you were referring to, for an actual customer. In Florida we build FLOATING foundations where the footer and slab are basically one big unit….floating on the sand. We do not have frost problems….how does your foundation handle or deal with frost problems in Soil?
How about ICF footing then buid up. Using wider ICF block, straight and leveled. Less headaches later. I've never seen anything like that yet. And I am not talking foothold.
We've used ICF's in the UK for a fair few years now, but this is the first time I've seen them bonded in place to the ground with iso-foam
Wow. That looks next step. New stuff.
Thank you.
Been meaning to ask you if you have used TF Forming Systems' vertical ICF.
Thanks for the video. 👍
I have not. Thank you
I am a bit confused why the horizontal black foam dividers you placed into the ICF forms? How does the concrete get down in there?
@@Subgunman black foam is on the bottom
Bondo, how high can you build these external wall? Can you go up nine feet and end up with a finished wall that is 8 feet tall or 8 feet 6 inches? I would love to use the Fox system to create a 2,000 square foot basement and a 500 square foot garage? My questions go with your new method project you are doing with Foxblock wall units.
I would be worried about the long term viability of the foam. If it fails that house is doomed
Bondo, why not use a heavy roller compactor that vibrates prior setting the forms so that there will be little chance of settling thus limiting or eliminating cracking of the concrete floor or slab foundation?
@@chrisdaniel1339 we used our huge tamper. You could hardly drive a steak in there.
With todays ridiculous prices not too many people have the money to build full basements or crawl spaces. This would be a great alternative for us cold climate northerners on a budget.
very cool, you even get a thermal break
For sure thanks.
I see no footers in this video
But....have you used the form-a-drain to frame footers...
Do you ever use fiberglass rebar?
I have not used either one YET. Im sure I will
Very nice work I Would like to have seen a Footer
the entire thing is a footer. just visited the build and not 1 crack anywhere. you will see next video.
@ I’ll be watching
If it was done an an actual footing it seems it would go super fast.. Just seems to risky to me to do without a simple footing first.. You get your level tight and you can drill and epoxy in anchors drop in extra rebar where eve you need it.. Put turnbuckles to tune your lines.. Bam! Thanks for sharing..
Is what I am watching, making use of the ICF with some or all unfilled acting as an insulator/air gap for the monolithic slab?
Yeah that makes sense. I was wondering why you were sealing off the top of the block.
Bondo team. Great work and spirit. Where are you guys located?
Central New York State. Thanks
Like the system, backfill or pour quickly or the forms may be floating
No it was rock solid.
As an actual licensed icf installer and also a licensed spray foam installer, I can tell you that there are countless things wrong with this way of doing things. I, like others on here, am amazed this was even considered by your building department. Just wow.
If there obviously a building wall/roof load, WHY is there not a 24" footing 8" deep on this build???... maybe the permit department did not notice your drawing showed NO footer....so, when they do an inspection before backfilling, they may surprise you by telling you to start over and get a footing under this build.......
Hey Ron, (great name by the way). I had a couple of thoughts. You said you pushed the foam down on the bottom and its resting on the base material. What about using skewers instead of spray foam? The skewers can be pulled and reused, you'll save a ton on sprayfoam, over time, that would add up quick. The other thought was about the block to make up the correct length of the wall. What about driving rebar once length is established, to keep from shifting. Then spanning that distance with your boards. Cut ICF block to fit, secure to the 😮 spray foam the joints? Anyway, "here comes the mud....."!!😅😅
some good thoughts. Thanks.
If you have a 25’ trailer you could build 25 foot sections in shop and then move to job site
yes true
Wouldn't it have better to spray foam inside the icf? Dunno if its structurally rated... Hope an engineer signed off on this..
The entire weight of the home will be resting on that black foam under the blocks. What kind of PSI rating does that black foam support?
and it appears that black foam is just floating in air since they lifted up the wall to level it. Unless I missed something.
@@akdoug6437 we push the black foam down before he spray foamed it.
@@bondobuilt386 thanks for responding. I must have gotten up and made a sandwich at that point. I missed it.
@@zmanmd1641 the weight is distributed between the rest of the slab and the ICF wall. It’s a mono pour.
@@bondobuilt386 Thanks, so the stem way is mainly for insulation down to below the frost line.
I gotta say, I'm not a fan of this method. For one there's no footings, so the bottom of the wall carries the load, and that's a lot narrower and thus more prone to settling. On top of that, the ground under the forms isn't completely flat and level, so at best the house is bearing on spray foam, and I don't think they got much under the forms. If the foam strips at the bottom were free-floating at least the weight of the concrete would force them tight to the ground. Overall, this method looks to be a lot less stable than your traditional method.
The entire slab carries the load and we pushed that foam down to the bottom before we spray foamed so load goes to the ground. You will understand better in part 2 of video when it all gets poured with the slab. I just visited the build and roof is on and we could not find one crack anywhere. I have seen my other method crack for some reason when floor is poured separate from the stem wall. I think this is actually stronger in good soils or how we put all this gravel in here and compacted it.
Do you put rebar in
Can the foam on the bottom of the ICF handle the compression?
No footing required?
Yes, the inspectors name is Big Biscuit. lol
it will be a slab mono pour.
@@bondobuilt386 Ah yes ,that makes sense.
@@bondobuilt386 Calling it a mono pour suggests that the floor and walls will be cast as a single piece of concrete, that doesn't appear to be what's setting up here. It might be poured on the same day, but it will be 2 unconnected pieces of concrete. A duo pour if you will: a floor, and a wall with no footings under it that is sitting on foam, and empty space wherever the foam didn't reach.
This is interesting, but not how I would have done it. The lack of a true footer irks me even with the intention of calling it a monolithic slab. I suspect your intention is to treat this a bit like a floating raft slab foundation.
I would have laid down foam sheet rated for under footers, then fast foot+icf, then pour, then spray foam the fast foot for a fully insulated monolithic pour.
Hey bondo... long time viewer here and I was wondering if you could do a video on simple footers. Size , width and so forth. I am starting a 24 x24 blog soon and could use your help. I'm in tenn and our freeze line is 12 inches. Thanks and I really appreciate your experience.
Go online and find the building code for your state. It'll give all the info you'll ever need for YOUR state's building codes. Don't rely on some guy on UA-cam.
Love your videos Bondo, keep up the excellent work! How can I get an Orange shirt of yours?
Thanks I need to sell merch just so busy it's hard.
I saw a post on You Tube about this being done in China. The guy with the hose should have had two "helpers." I'm trying to get somebody in Alaska that I am following to foam the outside of their Quonset hut after doing the inside. At least foam four feet up on the outside (as well as this Deep Foam technique around the foundation outside) to carry the Hydronic heated 10 inch slab in negative 50 degree winter temps. I think you've got something here. Gravel and perforated pipe for perimeter drainage?
Yes the drains will be in the next video.
The wood stakes create a direct path for termites. Why don't you install your rebar as you go? Why don't you use string lines and batter boards to align your walls?
we do not have termites here. we put lots of rebar in in second video.
@bondobuilt386 where are you in the world that does not have termites? Do you have a building code?
@ upstate New York. Yes this was inspected and passed. Not one crack in it. House is built already
this gentleman talks so slow that when i put it to 1.75 % that he just starts to sound like when my sister talks, helps me get through the whole video quicker but watch all the content
No footers?
No it's a monolithic slab on grade.
@@bondobuilt386 Got ya... 🙂
@bondobuilt386 slab on grade ? Wall should sit on that slab, if any inspectors or engineers involved it this you will be taring it all out 😂😂😂
@@786otto My bad, 100% informative and professional job Bondo.
How do you keep it from frost heaving?
Did u see them screed rails I used on that slab
At the 16min mark, you're lucky Biscuit didn't give you a slap with his paw! I would have. 😂
I raised him right. He would not hit his old man. LOL
@bondobuilt386 I have to admit, I have a son that is the hardest worker I know. We are so alike, I have to kind of watch my tongue. Sometimes I kinda "belittle" him, and others, when I step in and "show" them how to do something that I know they already know what to do.
Happy crew is a productive crew!
Cool idea, beats cutting foam board.
It seems like this wall should be on a footing or At least a sheet of that black 2 inch foam 4 by eights. Right in the middle of the sheet giving crossbarrier from outside. Then drive Rebar into Phone core center.
Center time swab to wall ❤? I'm :)Sorry No harm. Meant always enjoy watching your shows.
Awesome video!!!
Could shove nails thru the sides. No spread footing???
the entire thing will be a footing as we poured it as a monolithic slab on grade. You will see in the next video.
@@bondobuilt386 No crawl space??? I look forward to seeing it, you guys do good work, nice to see since allot of times I end up fixing a lot of garbage.
i like the concept. No different to medieval construction using a deep gravel bed as a "footing", some stone buildings had wider stone bases to act as a footing. We have to have a concrete footer in our region (coded to a certain size and material) and removing the clips most likely invalidates the manufacturer warranty. Although I've never seen nor heard of anyone claiming warranty on a lego block used in concrete construction. Guess it's the same as mixing dish soap in your drywall mud? lot of pro's do it and never had CGC/USG come back at them.
the clips just hold the blocks together while pouring. not there at all for wall strength. rebar for that. after foaming no need for clips when it dried.
This project would fail Building Control Regulations in the UK. In US you can get away it seems with any mad cap scheme you like! Absolutely nutty. Evidence of a totally inexperienced architect, builder and building governance. Completely NUTS😮
I can see that this eliminates the footer, that could be money in the bank! I guess that is what you are hoping.
Yeah, good luck getting 1” copper through that 45 degree fitting where it steps in higher
1:27:00 This is a system we are developing ? I just saw that China is making spray more affordable. Concrete for me way below frost and grade then some China foam
frost protected shallow foundations are better in wet soils. keep the building and concrete above the water table it will last longer and the foam will stop frost penetration. not new theory at all.
I don't understand what the spray foam is supposed to do? It's not very thick? It can't be that stiff? Assuming if it even sticks?
Protects against frost heave and insulates the slab from the exterior somewhat, but ridgid foam board would be cheaper and more consistent.
It locked it all in place also.
@@approots board foam would have done nothing to hold all this together for backfill.
Surprized the foam doest jack up spraying it underneath like that
It worked real nice IMO
What’s up Bondo Hope You n the Crew r Doing Good.
New Project LFG🤙🔥🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
26 👍's up BB thank you for sharing 🤗
You bet Scott.
Why would anyone want to build next to a swamp? I'd use Advantech polyurethane subfloor adhesive, it doesn't swell, goes a very long way per can, and holds like crazy. I don't know how the building dept allows no footings, an 8" footing doesn't meet code in any part of NY. According to table 403.1(1) the minimum footing size is 12"w x 6"d regardless if it's slab on grade or not, unless you're building a PWF or a precast concrete foundation that's placed on washed stone.
Edited to add: If this signed off by an engineer then the liability falls to them, but I would never come up with my own "new system" without it being fully engineered. Also, NY building code doesn't allow anything under footings, it has to sit directly on the ground, unless it was specifically designed for that purpose.
Put the line up over there, and while your resting, temper up that spray foam, its gettin a little too stiff.
LOL temper the spray foam.
In my humble opinion you could have set up timber boxing and the reo inside far quicker and cheaper. Greetings from Australia
We built this in 2 days and did not have the labor of hauling around all that lumber and stripping it off. Also the insulation is in place. It was quite cost effective considering the labor savings.
Getting that money
Wow. What a system!
You should use the great stuff pro gun, then you would have better control of the foam, and it's cleaner and less waste.
No footing?
Why didn't you cut all the way through with the table saw.
Get a contractor foam gun and screw on cans. You get more foam and you can control the foam way better
nice system
hind sight being 20/20....don't like the idea of the stakes being left in the ground, foam a section between the stakes, then remove stakes and foam that area.
Bondo. Try the spray foam gun. Alot cleaner. Lot less waste.
Your spray guns are the waste of money and time
Personally, I would NEVER buy a house constructed this way, especially in a wetland area. But, it's not for me so to each their own.
Hard to judge at this stage. So much more to this than this video shows. Part 2 is when we get it all together and pour the entire slab. Super strong foundation would hold up anywhere even super cold areas of the world. Alaskan slab.
Where you located?
New York State
@ email address pls
Hope that type K copper was already in that sleeve or that was a waste of time. They will never get that copper past the bends even with a pull string.
Nice work brother. Can’t forget my boy ROW . 👍🏻🐶🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸