Great video! I'm an older fella on my first metal roof. (Done a few shingled projects). Here is what I've found on UA-cam. There is a different "metal roof" drip edge that hangs over farther - the one you used looks like regular drip edge for shingles. It can be pou on to hang into your gutter. The standard overhand is 1-1/2" beyond the drip edge. Best way to "square the panel is to run a chalk line along your drip edge say, 2"" from the edge at either end. Then mark your panel at 3-1/2" to allow for overhang. Then carefully align the 1st panel with your chakkline. Next, your large ribs are 9" apart, you need to be sure each end is in the correct place to be covered by your rake trim looks like you got lucky. A tear off is a good idea as your nails for the purlins should extend into your rafters/truss you roof is only as strong as the weakest attachment. many roofers attach the rake with screws every foot or so but you need a square edge under the trim so you can get it close. Last, the roofing mfg says to put the screws in the center of the flat part, not close to the rib. I bought my metal from a HUGE Amish owned local company. I get next day delivery. They can make custom trim- probably would do your cupola. Very reasonable prices. Finally thought: switch you thumbnail to a screenshot of your bride in her sunglasses adjusting the seal at the lower edge. It'll get you several thousand more views!😊
Thank you for being so detailed, and having a calm demeanor. So many other videos are like listening to an hour of a loud overconfident jock rambling on.
For teaching yourself as u go u did a damn good job bro!!! I've worked with many many professionals thta just dont do a quality job on metal, it's awful, a tip for you. I always put screws on the outside of the rake trim, but not necessary, if you cut the rake trim at an angle on the bottom u can slide the top piece of rake into the bottom piece and it wont stick out like it is, cut it at like a 45 degree angle and itll slide right into the other one, I'm doing a metal job now, I'll take a few pictures of it and I'll do a video for you to see how I do it, but you did an amazing job bro good job!!!!!
Thank you for the video. You did a better job at explaining than some of the pros here on UA-cam. Thanks for pointing out the mistakes, it’s very helpful. My only gripe is. While I was sitting in the Olive Garden parking lot waiting on my food I watched your video through my Tahoe speakers. So I had the volume adjusted to hear your voice clearly but each time the music started it was super loud and had to turn the volume down then adjust the volume back up for your commentary. I’m not sure what causes that so sorry to be griping. Overall your video was very helpful thank you
Thanks Ben! I think the audio trouble came from the app I used to put the video together, making sure that doesn't happen again in my future videos. Thanks for feedback though!
I think you did a great job on the cupola for not having a kit. I would suggest you get the bottom fully covered up to that lip and then caulk it at the top to bottom of the small over hang. As is I am afraid water will get behind your metal. Should only take a strip run under the lip on that cupola that extends over what you have already put on all the way around.
I’ve seen this before and I don’t know what your climate is but I see were people I have put like a radiant barrier under the wood I’m assuming over the other tarpaper and then that way you have a radiant barrier and you have a gap between that and the steel, and then that hot air can sit in there and then move up towards the top of the roof And you get a reduction in heat transfer going into the property before you even get to insulation and it usually doesn’t add a lot of cost when you consider how much you’re actually spending on the metal roof. You might be adding an additional 300 bucks just for an additional layer of tarpaper and a radiant barrier and the only reason I mention this is because I have been watching a lot of videos about NetZero houses and I’m not too much concerned about the renewables, but I’ve always love the reduction in energy consumption with properties. I guess it’s my kink.
One thing that could also throw your panels off is this . When measure your roof go from top at one side measure down to edge roof do same other end . Very possible house being older never was or is 100 % square even a inch or two difference can make huge results after a run of say 30 to 50 ft . If is out not same figure out how much out divide the inch or two out by width roof . Then start with first sheet laying that small percent on a angle by that lil smidge as you lay each sheet will slowly gain not be short . Just need know what end is shorter run your gain / plus measurments to that end .
First honest video I gave seen -- no one Ever gives a price, my tiny shed with generous overhang came to 10' x 16' and with all the other xtras I wanted, wider drip edge + simpson B3" special order teflon/rubber washer screws (similar to deck ties, my honemad do-it-yourself baking shed has to hold up in hurricane country, and not over an existing shi gle roof but, grace-shield self-stick underlayment)...came to $830. Shingles could have saved me $250, and 40 yrs. less wear.
Great stuff. Thanks for sharing the mistakes. You both did a great job, kudos. Can you detail the costs and savings if you have contracted this. Also any reason for not considering standing seam roof
I went through Menards which I was happy with the ordering process and quality of materials. I paid roughly 2k for materials and put in about a week of work. I didn't have the project quoted by any contractors so I'm not sure what the cost would be hired out. Standing seam was just more cost for materials so I went with exposed fastener.
This video is one of the best I’ve seen! I’m planning something similar and was wondering since my detached garage isn’t heated, would I need any roof vents? Main reason I ask is that the roof trusses are blocked between them at the ridge with 2x4’s. Would appreciate you thoughts, thank you
I don’t think I have the expertise to give you a full answer to that question. I can tell you that I’ve done projects similar to this since I made this video and I added a ridge vent on one building which is really easy to do by using vented closure strips.
@@homesteadpursuit8535 Metal has been ordered and your video has given me the confidence to tackle. Thanks for this video again, it’s honestly the best diy video in my 50+ saved videos on metal roofing lol.
If panels start to run just pick up long side and put a screw in the bump in tin will be loss in the 3 ribs when pushing bump down easy trick of starting to run fyi
Wherever you have unsightly raised laps simply drill a hole and install 2 pop rivets & the lap will vanish with a dob of touch up paint ,i use rivets on my ridge cap instead of screws,i also NEVER attach my panels by installing screws in the pan,i pre drill through the top of the ribs to prevent movement then attach my panels screws through the raised lap .
Thanks for the insight! I pre/drilled a few and that is definitely easier and more efficient. Whether to put the screws in the flat or on the rib seems to be a common point of contention, I’ll see how mine holds up with the screws in the flat!
Try not to predrill....use a punch and a good swing of the hammer. Waaay faster and no metal shavings to scratch the surface. I always screw in the flats. The metal we use, the ribs are not flat on top and I feel screwing thru the ribs is an old school method. Plus the washer can't seal on that small of a surface on the rib.
@@homesteadpursuit8535 When i installed my metal roof, the manufacturer stated it could be screwed on the flat or the ribs. If it’s screwed on the flats the screws show much less and snow doesn’t slide off as easily.
@@homesteadpursuit8535 I've done miles of metal roofing, the screws should go in the flat, not on the ribs, screws on top of the ribs cannot be drawn down tight because there's nothing under them, expansion of the metal causes the screws to come lose, I've had to replace metal roofs that were screwed on top of the ribs, kept coming lose and leaking, replaced the whole roof with new metal and screwed it down in the flats, no more problems, Michael Ledford is like a lot of people, they must like problems.
Im curious to see too. Most of the forums I was reading through when researching the project said 20 to 30 years, with manufacturers saying 30 to 40 years. It seemed to me that most sources pointed to how well you install the screws and set them properly as being the most import part of the install that will determine their life.
@@homesteadpursuit8535 thanks for the reply. Yeah, I’m looking to get my roof replaced and some of the roofers claim the exposed won’t last but I think they just want me to buy the more expensive hidden fastener option.
No leaks or problems so far and I did end up putting this same type of roof on my house. When I get some time I will upload a follow up video showing the house as well!
@@homesteadpursuit8535 Good to hear. I’m learning about metal roofing as I go. I just replaced mine yesterday with a heavier gauge than usual exposed fastener metal roof. They put 1x6 furring strips down and covered that with tyvek and put the roof on top of that. The surface of the metal is textured for walking on it. I’m pretty sure it’s a 40 year rated roof. It’s really probably a lifetime roof. They put all the metal down yesterday and still need to cap it. It started raining last night and is going to rain all day into the night. No leaks. The tyvek vapor barrier really makes a difference and no doubt is preventing leaks in addition to the roof metal. It’s really a nice roof.
@@jonnyboat2 Sounds really nice! The product I got was rated at 40 years as well. I'm interested in the textured material, I haven't heard or seen of that when I was doing research. Very cool!
The asphalt shingles would create an uneven surface and the rubbing of the shingles on the bottom of the metal would decrease the lifespan of the metal roof. You can add fanfold foam over shingles though and put the metal on then.
Nice roof. It will last forever if you get the rest of your screws in. Snow will slide off roof in "avalanches". That's only a problem if it becomes a problem in front of your access door.If it does you can screw on tabs to the roof above the door to keep snow on the roof till it melts. If it doesn't become a problem because you can use the car door entry , then it is better to let the single entry door get snowed in. Your choice. Would have costed 2 to 3 times more if you hired it done.
Yes we will see this winter if that becomes a problem. I think it I will just use the garage door if it does and clean up the side entry as needed. Thanks!
I think you're talking about the firring strips. Those are 1x4 and I put them the entire length of the roof, every 2 ft from the roof edge to the ridge. I'm definitely not a teacher in this area, just sharing my experience!
Cant help but fail with screws in the flat. 2 1/2" screws in the high rib, but nobody does it correctly. 5 years remove a sheet and look at the 1x4's.They will be rotting. Terrance Wolfe, Humble Tx. engineers every sheet I've bought in florida and alabama. Someone finally demanded (and paid big bucks for) engineering for high rib fastening. Grandaddy was born 1898 and would tell him what an idiot he is for all the thousands of miles of panels put down pollack style now in need of yet another reroof. Live and learn, die and forget all of it.
Sorry I could not watch your video, I refuse to play the have to turn the volume down every time music come on, I don't see the need for music in these videos in the first place. I see the video is 3 years old so I hope you have dumped the music because there is nothing worse than trying to watch a video with the volume tuned to the talking and all of the sudden blaring music starts playing waking people up.
I just viewed a few of your comments and did not see anyone addressing the elephant in the room. Your very LOUD music ruined your video. I watched it without the sound, but it would have been so much better to have heard what you were saying.
Im a professional roofer and i must say you explain the process better than most foremen ive seen train new guys hands on. Well done
Thanks Travis, I appreciate it.
Great video! I'm an older fella on my first metal roof. (Done a few shingled projects). Here is what I've found on UA-cam. There is a different "metal roof" drip edge that hangs over farther - the one you used looks like regular drip edge for shingles. It can be pou on to hang into your gutter. The standard overhand is 1-1/2" beyond the drip edge. Best way to "square the panel is to run a chalk line along your drip edge say, 2"" from the edge at either end. Then mark your panel at 3-1/2" to allow for overhang. Then carefully align the 1st panel with your chakkline. Next, your large ribs are 9" apart, you need to be sure each end is in the correct place to be covered by your rake trim looks like you got lucky. A tear off is a good idea as your nails for the purlins should extend into your rafters/truss you roof is only as strong as the weakest attachment. many roofers attach the rake with screws every foot or so but you need a square edge under the trim so you can get it close. Last, the roofing mfg says to put the screws in the center of the flat part, not close to the rib. I bought my metal from a HUGE Amish owned local company. I get next day delivery. They can make custom trim- probably would do your cupola. Very reasonable prices. Finally thought: switch you thumbnail to a screenshot of your bride in her sunglasses adjusting the seal at the lower edge. It'll get you several thousand more views!😊
Thank you for being so detailed, and having a calm demeanor. So many other videos are like listening to an hour of a loud overconfident jock rambling on.
Great job and you made yourself proud with excellent craftsmanship.
Awesome job explaining the process. I think you done great!!
Thank you for sharing your DYI .
For the first time doing this, you did a good job and the explanation of the process of the dos and don't was really helpful. 👍🏾
Great job,......Thanks for sharing😎✌️👍
Thanks for watching!
Very excellent job 👍.
Nice job on the Cupalo. Pretty sweet assists you have.
You can always push and pull the bottom/top of your panels to square it back up if need be.
Thanks for the under over explanation, I was wondering about that
I think you did a great job for the first time doing roofing great video 👍
Thanks 👍
For teaching yourself as u go u did a damn good job bro!!! I've worked with many many professionals thta just dont do a quality job on metal, it's awful, a tip for you. I always put screws on the outside of the rake trim, but not necessary, if you cut the rake trim at an angle on the bottom u can slide the top piece of rake into the bottom piece and it wont stick out like it is, cut it at like a 45 degree angle and itll slide right into the other one, I'm doing a metal job now, I'll take a few pictures of it and I'll do a video for you to see how I do it, but you did an amazing job bro good job!!!!!
Thanks for the tip! I look forward to seeing how you do that!
$2,000? That's all, of course this was 3 years ago now metal has sky rocketed to $100.00 a sheet for 14ft panel. That's the price here in Florida.
Thank you for the video. You did a better job at explaining than some of the pros here on UA-cam. Thanks for pointing out the mistakes, it’s very helpful. My only gripe is. While I was sitting in the Olive Garden parking lot waiting on my food I watched your video through my Tahoe speakers. So I had the volume adjusted to hear your voice clearly but each time the music started it was super loud and had to turn the volume down then adjust the volume back up for your commentary. I’m not sure what causes that so sorry to be griping. Overall your video was very helpful thank you
Thanks Ben! I think the audio trouble came from the app I used to put the video together, making sure that doesn't happen again in my future videos. Thanks for feedback though!
Buen trabajo, gracias por la explicación tan sencilla, lo haré poco a poco hasta que termine,me ayudo mucho tus ideas bendiciones y hasta pronto
New subscriber!
And yes they're much easier to out closures on after input the panels on
I think you did a great job on the cupola for not having a kit. I would suggest you get the bottom fully covered up to that lip and then caulk it at the top to bottom of the small over hang. As is I am afraid water will get behind your metal. Should only take a strip run under the lip on that cupola that extends over what you have already put on all the way around.
Yes, I think that would be a good idea too. Thank you!
I’ve seen this before and I don’t know what your climate is but I see were people I have put like a radiant barrier under the wood I’m assuming over the other tarpaper and then that way you have a radiant barrier and you have a gap between that and the steel, and then that hot air can sit in there and then move up towards the top of the roof And you get a reduction in heat transfer going into the property before you even get to insulation and it usually doesn’t add a lot of cost when you consider how much you’re actually spending on the metal roof. You might be adding an additional 300 bucks just for an additional layer of tarpaper and a radiant barrier and the only reason I mention this is because I have been watching a lot of videos about NetZero houses and I’m not too much concerned about the renewables, but I’ve always love the reduction in energy consumption with properties. I guess it’s my kink.
I saw on another video you are supposed to cut a hole across the ridge for venting? do you not have to do that if you go over existing shingles?
One thing that could also throw your panels off is this . When measure your roof go from top at one side measure down to edge roof do same other end .
Very possible house being older never was or is 100 % square even a inch or two difference can make huge results after a run of say 30 to 50 ft .
If is out not same figure out how much out divide the inch or two out by width roof . Then start with first sheet laying that small percent on a angle by that lil smidge as you lay each sheet will slowly gain not be short .
Just need know what end is shorter run your gain / plus measurments to that end .
Very possible, good advice!
First honest video I gave seen -- no one Ever gives a price, my tiny shed with generous overhang came to 10' x 16' and with all the other xtras I wanted, wider drip edge + simpson B3" special order teflon/rubber washer screws (similar to deck ties, my honemad do-it-yourself baking shed has to hold up in hurricane country, and not over an existing shi gle roof but, grace-shield self-stick underlayment)...came to $830. Shingles could have saved me $250, and 40 yrs. less wear.
Great stuff. Thanks for sharing the mistakes. You both did a great job, kudos. Can you detail the costs and savings if you have contracted this. Also any reason for not considering standing seam roof
I went through Menards which I was happy with the ordering process and quality of materials. I paid roughly 2k for materials and put in about a week of work. I didn't have the project quoted by any contractors so I'm not sure what the cost would be hired out. Standing seam was just more cost for materials so I went with exposed fastener.
@@homesteadpursuit8535 : excellent
This video is one of the best I’ve seen! I’m planning something similar and was wondering since my detached garage isn’t heated, would I need any roof vents? Main reason I ask is that the roof trusses are blocked between them at the ridge with 2x4’s. Would appreciate you thoughts, thank you
I don’t think I have the expertise to give you a full answer to that question. I can tell you that I’ve done projects similar to this since I made this video and I added a ridge vent on one building which is really easy to do by using vented closure strips.
@@homesteadpursuit8535 Metal has been ordered and your video has given me the confidence to tackle. Thanks for this video again, it’s honestly the best diy video in my 50+ saved videos on metal roofing lol.
A great video. How did you keep from sliding on the metal. I tried to put snow blocks on and kept sliding down to my ladder.
I had pretty grippy tennis shoes and then when I had to, I would use the harness I was wearing to hold myself.
A roll of no slip drawer liner is great to hold you on and your tools, so no need to chase your tools down the roof but a harness is best 😊
Are the 1x4s needed on a new roof?
Great job& video.I’m going to be doing my first roof on my house.What’s the pitch on this roof? Thanks for any info
this was 4/12
If panels start to run just pick up long side and put a screw in the bump in tin will be loss in the 3 ribs when pushing bump down easy trick of starting to run fyi
Why You didnt want to put underlayment or bubble insulation down before you put the furring straps?
You could completely remove the coupla and stick it on over the ridge cap later...no flashing to deal with.
That’s a good idea
Wherever you have unsightly raised laps simply drill a hole and install 2 pop rivets & the lap will vanish with a dob of touch up paint ,i use rivets on my ridge cap instead of screws,i also NEVER attach my panels by installing screws in the pan,i pre drill through the top of the ribs to prevent movement then attach my panels screws through the raised lap .
Thanks for the insight! I pre/drilled a few and that is definitely easier and more efficient. Whether to put the screws in the flat or on the rib seems to be a common point of contention, I’ll see how mine holds up with the screws in the flat!
Try not to predrill....use a punch and a good swing of the hammer. Waaay faster and no metal shavings to scratch the surface. I always screw in the flats. The metal we use, the ribs are not flat on top and I feel screwing thru the ribs is an old school method. Plus the washer can't seal on that small of a surface on the rib.
@@homesteadpursuit8535 When i installed my metal roof, the manufacturer stated it could be screwed on the flat or the ribs. If it’s screwed on the flats the screws show much less and snow doesn’t slide off as easily.
@@homesteadpursuit8535 I've done miles of metal roofing, the screws should go in the flat, not on the ribs, screws on top of the ribs cannot be drawn down tight because there's nothing under them, expansion of the metal causes the screws to come lose, I've had to replace metal roofs that were screwed on top of the ribs, kept coming lose and leaking, replaced the whole roof with new metal and screwed it down in the flats, no more problems, Michael Ledford is like a lot of people, they must like problems.
Great job. Curious how long the exposed fasteners will last?
Im curious to see too. Most of the forums I was reading through when researching the project said 20 to 30 years, with manufacturers saying 30 to 40 years. It seemed to me that most sources pointed to how well you install the screws and set them properly as being the most import part of the install that will determine their life.
@@homesteadpursuit8535 thanks for the reply. Yeah, I’m looking to get my roof replaced and some of the roofers claim the exposed won’t last but I think they just want me to buy the more expensive hidden fastener option.
Exposed fasteners could last 20 yrs could last longer,but I was told to exspect to replace them in 15 years.
Pop, rivet, rake seems
How’s your roof working out a year later? Would you recommend this roof for a house?
No leaks or problems so far and I did end up putting this same type of roof on my house. When I get some time I will upload a follow up video showing the house as well!
@@homesteadpursuit8535 Good to hear. I’m learning about metal roofing as I go. I just replaced mine yesterday with a heavier gauge than usual exposed fastener metal roof. They put 1x6 furring strips down and covered that with tyvek and put the roof on top of that. The surface of the metal is textured for walking on it. I’m pretty sure it’s a 40 year rated roof. It’s really probably a lifetime roof. They put all the metal down yesterday and still need to cap it. It started raining last night and is going to rain all day into the night. No leaks. The tyvek vapor barrier really makes a difference and no doubt is preventing leaks in addition to the roof metal. It’s really a nice roof.
@@jonnyboat2 Sounds really nice! The product I got was rated at 40 years as well. I'm interested in the textured material, I haven't heard or seen of that when I was doing research. Very cool!
Why didn't you just connect the steel panels flat onto the asphalt shingles negating the firing strips? Tx
The asphalt shingles would create an uneven surface and the rubbing of the shingles on the bottom of the metal would decrease the lifespan of the metal roof. You can add fanfold foam over shingles though and put the metal on then.
Makes complete sense, thanks!. One more, once the steel is installed is the steel strong enough to walk on ? I weigh 175. 👍
Oh yeah! I weigh 165 and walked all over it, no problems. It's slippery though, anti-slip shoes are helpful.
Excellent 👍
Is that a roof on another roof? I fast-forwarded through the video a couple times. Did I miss something?
Yes! Metal over asphalt shingles using furring strips.
What color did you use looks good
Thanks! it's from Menards, they call it charcoal grey.
Good job. Music too loud though.
Nice roof. It will last forever if you get the rest of your screws in. Snow will slide off roof in "avalanches". That's only a problem if it becomes a problem in front of your access door.If it does you can screw on tabs to the roof above the door to keep snow on the roof till it melts. If it doesn't become a problem because you can use the car door entry , then it is better to let the single entry door get snowed in. Your choice. Would have costed 2 to 3 times more if you hired it done.
Yes we will see this winter if that becomes a problem. I think it I will just use the garage door if it does and clean up the side entry as needed. Thanks!
No underlayment around the Cupolla no fault paper
Teacher How far does the 2x4 go?
I think you're talking about the firring strips. Those are 1x4 and I put them the entire length of the roof, every 2 ft from the roof edge to the ridge. I'm definitely not a teacher in this area, just sharing my experience!
@@homesteadpursuit8535 Your the best ,,thanks
Cant help but fail with screws in the flat. 2 1/2" screws in the high rib, but nobody does it correctly. 5 years remove a sheet and look at the 1x4's.They will be rotting. Terrance Wolfe, Humble Tx. engineers every sheet I've bought in florida and alabama. Someone finally demanded (and paid big bucks for) engineering for high rib fastening. Grandaddy was born 1898 and would tell him what an idiot he is for all the thousands of miles of panels put down pollack style now in need of yet another reroof. Live and learn, die and forget all of it.
Good video loud music
Music is WAY TOO LOUD! Nice video though, thanks.
those purlins/battens are gunna rot out
Audio alert, great job though :-)
Turn up the audio
My favorite part was Claire 🤷🏼
I would have removed the asphalt shingles, laid roofing felt, then put the metal roof directly on the roofing felt.
That's a good way to go if I was doing a complete tear off, the guy that sold me the materials also recomended putting down fanfold foam underlayment.
Roy, I wouldn't.
Lack of control of music ruined a good vision.
Sorry I could not watch your video, I refuse to play the have to turn the volume down every time music come on, I don't see the need for music in these videos in the first place. I see the video is 3 years old so I hope you have dumped the music because there is nothing worse than trying to watch a video with the volume tuned to the talking and all of the sudden blaring music starts playing waking people up.
I just viewed a few of your comments and did not see anyone addressing the elephant in the room. Your very LOUD music ruined your video. I watched it without the sound, but it would have been so much better to have heard what you were saying.
I can do without the blast of music so loud I about jump off the sofa every time it comes on… come on, give us a break!
Get rid of the strapping but the screws on the flats is right
Put shingle on and do it right if you don’t want to spend the money on a real roof