I'm pleased to be the first commenter. That's a very good t-shooting job. I've decided to subscribe; looking to more great tech info. My first thought after reading the title was "It's a Chrysler."
Thanks for the support, I will be trying to make a new playlist of "what's wrong with it" videos like this giving the quick view of what I find wrong with cars/trucks.
Just be aware folks that these issues, thought to be caused by the TIPM, are usually nothing more than loose grounds externally bonded to the chassis in various locations under the hood. This is the case time and again but the TIPM seems to be the "go to" for replacement and oftentimes frustrates the home mechanic by producing the same errors and symptoms following the replacement. A very expensive replacement at that! Additionally, be aware that not all TIPM's are the same. They are model year, trim, and options specific. They are programmed differently depending on the options you have in your vehicle. A good example would be the PT Convertible is programmed to have a special power window closing sequence that the ordinary hardtop PT does not have. The TURBO TIPM differs from the non-Turbo, etc. A good source and 'go to' for more than a single opinion, as this is in this thread, is the Chrysler online forum "Allpar". Some very knowledgeable people there and some varied findings for issues like this. It's not always the TIPM. I'm not saying this guy didn't fix the problem I'm saying that many times they believe so only to have the same issue rear its ugly head later on....
This is the exact exact problem I’m having on my 2011 Chrysler 200 convertible. It’s been about three weeks and it’s been so hard to find a video that’s having the exact problems with my boxes lighting up and it goes into limp mode. About 90% of the time sometimes I can drive it and it won’t but most of the time it will say TCM low-voltage. I got a used TPM from a junkyard today and apparently you have to connect the battery cables to dissipate all the power in the car for a couple of hours so that’s what I’m waiting for now. I’m hoping this works but at least I know exactly what the problem is. Thank you so much.
Glad to help. You don't have to wait hours. 5 minutes max really. Or a fast way is to touch the cables together while both are disconnected for about 5-10 seconds.
@@DiamondStarWerks really? It’s been about an hour now. Well, when I got out of the junkyard and I was in the parking lot I put in the replacement (same exact one off of a Chrysler 200) and I had the battery terminals touching for about five minutes and when I hooked up the battery again, the car alarm went off along with the wipers, and the car kept trying to start. but I’m thinking maybe five minutes wasn’t long enough I’m really hoping this works. I’m gonna try it right now since it’s been an hour I had to put my old one back in just to get home.
Changed tipm and pcm, had it flashed and programmed, and now when i go to start, there is no crank no start and red security dot is on dash .......BUT ALL LIGHTS,LOCKS, WINDOWS WORK
I'm pleased to be the first commenter. That's a very good t-shooting job. I've decided to subscribe; looking to more great tech info. My first thought after reading the title was "It's a Chrysler."
Thanks for the support, I will be trying to make a new playlist of "what's wrong with it" videos like this giving the quick view of what I find wrong with cars/trucks.
Just be aware folks that these issues, thought to be caused by the TIPM, are usually nothing more than loose grounds externally bonded to the chassis in various locations under the hood. This is the case time and again but the TIPM seems to be the "go to" for replacement and oftentimes frustrates the home mechanic by producing the same errors and symptoms following the replacement. A very expensive replacement at that!
Additionally, be aware that not all TIPM's are the same. They are model year, trim, and options specific.
They are programmed differently depending on the options you have in your vehicle. A good example would be the PT Convertible is programmed to have a special power window closing sequence that the ordinary hardtop PT does not have. The TURBO TIPM differs from the non-Turbo, etc.
A good source and 'go to' for more than a single opinion, as this is in this thread, is the Chrysler online forum "Allpar". Some very knowledgeable people there and some varied findings for issues like this. It's not always the TIPM.
I'm not saying this guy didn't fix the problem I'm saying that many times they believe so only to have the same issue rear its ugly head later on....
This is the exact exact problem I’m having on my 2011 Chrysler 200 convertible. It’s been about three weeks and it’s been so hard to find a video that’s having the exact problems with my boxes lighting up and it goes into limp mode. About 90% of the time sometimes I can drive it and it won’t but most of the time it will say TCM low-voltage. I got a used TPM from a junkyard today and apparently you have to connect the battery cables to dissipate all the power in the car for a couple of hours so that’s what I’m waiting for now. I’m hoping this works but at least I know exactly what the problem is. Thank you so much.
Glad to help. You don't have to wait hours. 5 minutes max really. Or a fast way is to touch the cables together while both are disconnected for about 5-10 seconds.
@@DiamondStarWerks really? It’s been about an hour now. Well, when I got out of the junkyard and I was in the parking lot I put in the replacement (same exact one off of a Chrysler 200) and I had the battery terminals touching for about five minutes and when I hooked up the battery again, the car alarm went off along with the wipers, and the car kept trying to start. but I’m thinking maybe five minutes wasn’t long enough I’m really hoping this works. I’m gonna try it right now since it’s been an hour I had to put my old one back in just to get home.
Changed tipm and pcm, had it flashed and programmed, and now when i go to start, there is no crank no start and red security dot is on dash .......BUT ALL LIGHTS,LOCKS, WINDOWS WORK