Just completed the break-in period and so far the unit is operating perfectly ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y . I was amazed by just how quiet this little guy is. I kept having to walk down the driveway to the generator to make sure it was still running. In fact, the most annoying noise coming from the set-up is a high-pitched chirping coming from the pressure regulator on the propane line. I suppose it's possible my other propane-powered generator's pressure regulator is making the same noise, but the generator itself is so loud I've never noticed it. Build quality so far is excellent. My only nit is the service panel is a little tricky to remove. I feel like I might break off one of the plastic tabs when bending it back. I probably just need to work out the technique, so will not hold it against Champion.Next week I intend to fully load the unit to charge a large battery pack and will update this review if there's any problem (3000W continuous load vs a rated 3100W capacity while using propane). Absent any trouble there, I'm 100% pleased with this purchase.
I see a lot of comments on this video and I could not read them all, so I don't know if anyone has mentioned this or not. I have the same generator and I built my cabinet very much the same way that you did yours. My power went out yesterday and I turned on the generator and it was working fine when I shut the cabinet. However, sometime while I was inside watching TV , the exhaust fan malfunctioned and stopped working, so there was no airflow through the cabinet. Needless to say it got pretty hot inside the cabinet and almost started a fire. I used the same insulation that you did and a lot of it melted. It was so hot that I burned myself when I touched the ignition switch to turn off the generator. The ignition switch is frozen now and I ordered a new one. Once it arrives I will attempt to start the generator to see how much damage there is to the motor. It didn't sound good when I turned it off. All of this is to say, you also need to install a temperature switch that will turn off the unit if the cabinet gets too hot. You want one that defaults in the open position and closes when the desired temp is reached. You can get them from Amazon for about $10 and wire one into the the switch that shuts the unit down when the oil level is low. You just run a wire from the ground to the switch and from the switch to the wire that comes out of the oil shut off switch that is screwed into the motor. That temp switch can then be zip tied to the frame of the generator. That way, if the exhaust fan fails for any reason, the generator will turn off before any damage or fire occurs.
Dang, Im sorry to hear that. It mustve gotten pretty warm in there. So a fail-safe is critical. What was the indicator this was happening? I was told by the owner of this unit that he has a bluetooth temp probe that goes to his phone with alerts. Its actually intended for a BBQ but it monitors the enclosure temp just as well. It wont turn the unit off automatically though. Im going to look into a switch like you mentioned. A typical air cooled, aluminum head engine can withstand temps up to 375F, Hopefully you didnt get that high. Please keep me posted.
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Sorry it took so long to get back to you on this. The ignition switch was melted to the point that I could not start the generator. After ordering and installing a new one, I was able to start the generator and it was making some pretty scary noises. It appears as if the motor is okay, but the generator is shot. It looks like the wire windings or whatever just melted. I was not able to get the needed parts to fix it, so I ended up buying a new generator. The foam in the cabinet was the same as you used and it was pretty much melted too and needed to be replaced. I have now repaired the cabinet and installed a new generator, with the heat kill switch. I also put a thermometer sending unit in the cabinet that sends the temp to a receiver in the house, so that I can monitor the cabinet temp. I don't know why the fan failed because it only had about 5 hours total time on it. The fan motor could have been defective, but my theory is that the fan was not large enough to remove sufficient heat from the cabinet. That may have caused the fan motor to overheat and fail. I have now way over engineered the airflow system. I tripled the size of the fan and added a lot more makeup air vents. It's like a wind tunnel in there now. I also decided to use two heat kill switches. One is set 10 degrees higher than the other, so that if one fails the other will still do the job. I am not taking any chances this time. A whole set of the switches cost about $10 from Amazon. The entire repair came to almost $2000 because I failed to engineer in a cheap heat kill switch. Boy do I feel stupid. Anyway, you did a great video. Thanks for sharing it.
Came to comment section to ask if it is safe to store more propane and gasoline in the cabinet... but now seeing this comment it makes me worry lol. With a heat kill switch and a temp monitor do you think it would be safe? I could just build a box next to the generator cabinet for those things if needed. Just don't want it to get stolen etc.
@@The_Bearded_Lady I had a 20 lb propane tank stored in the cabinet when it overheated. It didn't blow up, but I think I caught it just before it did. That could have been catastrophic because the cabinet is located about eight feet from my house. Had it blown while I was trying to shut down the generator, I would most likely be dead right now. The temp monitor and the two kill switches definitely add much needed protection. Still, I no longer keep the propane tank inside the cabinet. I have it stored outside the cabinet and I cover it with a small tarp. I only run the generator with propane to avoid carburetor contamination, so I have two 100 lb propane tanks located outside about eight feet from the cabinet and that is also where I put the 20 lb tank. I don't know if you are aware of this, but you can purchase an adapter for the 100 lb tanks that will allow the 20 lb fitting to work on them. So, the bottom line is, my personal recommendation is to put safety first and keep all flammable materials out of the cabinet. When I look back at what happened I am really embarrassed because I should have known better than to risk my life and my families lives on one fan. All mechanical devices are subject to failure and when that failure may result in serious damage or injuries, it's always wise to have at least one back up system in place and never take chances. Boy do I feel stupid, not to mention very lucky. I hope that helps. By the way, check out my channel. I show you how to do your own pest control safely, effectively, and cheaply. I don't' make any money on it. I just like to help people save money. Here's the link to my trailer. It's only 85 seconds long and will take you to my channel. I think it's kind of funny too. You may enjoy it. Thanks. Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/UJi8t1SprKU/v-deo.html
For the viewers information 70-71 dBA is the normal conversation sound level in an office. So achieving 69 dBA is pretty impressive. Great job and nice work!
Very impressive. For further silencing maybe a couple motorcycle mufflers in line. A shed is super easy to build, but pretty lightweight. Adding some concrete panels inside would help reflect it away from the thin plastic.
@WhyAlways 10 decibal reduction is apparently a 10 fold reduction in noise acording to Google butif its down to 69 its probably quite enough to live with
I had three pipes burst during the Texas storms and bought a generator this size to mitigate summer outages as well. This guy is a true professional with his work and skills. Badass. I wish he was local.
Yep, we are in Texas also, watched this video a few weeks ago, had decided on a complete home backup system. The wait list is 1+/2022, canceled that and picked up a Winco DP7500 yesterday. Going to build basically the same setup, except I’m going to run about 6 permanent circuits not connected to the normal power. Thanks for the video !
Nice box ! The controlling issue with sound reduction is reducing reflective sound waves. Sound (especially higher frequency) waves travel line of sight. The way to reduce their effect on your ear is to include multiple baffles for the redirection of the sound waves. Sound deadening material is helpful as it is harder to bounce off of a soft surface.
I built this same box with no experience. 2012 we lost power to Hurricane Sandy for 2 weeks. I was the only person on my block with power because I had 2 generators one 6500 & 5500. Hating ass jealous neighbors was complaining about noise. Built this box & it did wonders. Only thing I did different was I added a 4inch vent pipe with a 90 elbow just to help with exhaust & getting heat out box.
I'm pretty sure your neighbors weren't bothered by the noise, but by the fact you had everything ready and under control!!! Similar situation I already had when hurricane Gilbert struck the yucatan peninsula in 1988!!
Only thing you might want to do is check to see if neutral is grounded on the generator. If so uncouple the ground from the neutral so that you only have a ground at your electrical panel otherwise you will get current on your ground wire in your cable from the generator to your panel.
Should NOT have grounded the generator since it's already grounded at the main service panel. The NEUTRAL BOND at the generator head should also be removed if used to power a grid connected building in the event of an outage.
Thank you for posting this, I have the same generator and I'm planning on converting it to Tri-fuel. Your the only video I could find that shows this generator running on natural gas. I suggest you update your tags for this video to include the modle name of Duromax "XP12000EH" as many owners of this generator who are interested in conversion and can find this video
The exhaust pipe extending outside by approx 10 ft. is a good idea, but making it the same dia. as the generator's pipe outlet is causing excessive back pressure to the engine. That's the reason your carburetor settings were initially off. You effectively changed the engine's overall tuning. It would be less restrictive to use a much larger outlet pipe. At least 3" (same dia. as dryer vent you installed. The larger dia won't build as much back pressure and also help keep water out of engine.
You beat me to the punch there that is correct plus causing the overall back pressure on the engine which can cause excessive heat & wear. Nice job though
Makes sense ... I have the same generator and the way I got around it was not making it a perfect seal! I found a connector that slides over the exhaust outlet but it's not clamped down. The enclosure it outside, the side walls are open to air 6" under the roof, it runs with the front barn doors open, so it's ok if the exhaust is not perfect.
Since it is open upward that way, you need to put a downward bend on the end of that exhaust pipe as it is going to catch rain and send it down to the engine.
@@stevetyler2586 How would you install the Rockwool insulation? I assume you would frame out the interior of the shed? Or do you have something else in mind? What about the lid?
What a perfect professional job. If you don't mind me asking how much was all this work not including the generator? Do you happen to know anyone that can do the same in Houston Texas?
Why did you run the exhaust up the wall? But since you did shouldn't you have pointed the top of the pipe a bit downward so it wouldn't catch water? Also that's an invitation for insects to nest and plug it up. You definitely need a solenoid valve on the gas line to stop the gas if the generator stops. That's a real safety issue but maybe I just missed it. Also that foam you added around the fan is exposed to sunlight and will crumble in no time. It should be caulked. Cutting the frame was a bad idea as it will probably introduce vibration and definitely weakened it and will definitely void the warranty. I would have sunk a high-security chain into the concrete foundation and used a high-security lock to secure the genset. (vultures, vultures everywhere)
Besides all the comments worth considering, I’d say that a safety shutoff in case of fan failure would be a must, my friend! I do a lot of commissioning and QC not to mention my own setups and safety is always the number one concern. A backup generator is pretty useless on a burned house...
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 I never had to do this in a DYI situation, so I would go the path of least resistance and try a temp sensor wired to the generator shut-off circuit (the "off" button) to star and try how well it works by unplugging the fan and closing the box and wait. It shouldn't take long...
Yeah imagine if that generator caught on fire and the only way to put it out would be to cut off the natural gas, which is less than 3 feet away. this generator is in the wrong place, also I don’t see the point of putting it on the house except or for aesthetic purposes, I wouldn’t sacrifice safety for that. A plastic shed is going to be an eyesore any where
No, these types of insulation are not going to benefit, only create problems. For the lamen, would you wrap an engine with a blanket to keep it cool from the sun? No. You shade it. Provide air cooling pathways and paint everything you can flat black.
He could have made a top open baffle or shroud around the fan and a bottom open baffle around the inlet too. That would have done a lot for the noise. Felt board (asphalt impregnated board) would have been good for sound deadening.
@@Hema1400 - I agree. I'd put some 1/2" plywood baffling on the inside between the inlet vent and the generator and between the powered output vent and the generator being careful not to restrict cooling airflow. Try to get the Genset on rubber feet to keep some of the energy from being coupled to the plastic floor and to the walls, doors and lid which then vibrate and act like speakers. If you put your hand on the outer surfaces I bet you can feel significant vibrations from the genset.
Very impressive! I wonder what the total cost of this installation was? Yes, you'd have a VERY big business doing this here in Texas right now!!! You can start on my house!
Mine has a duct for the engine cooling fan shroud and the generator cooling inlet directly to the outside via an insulated flex pipe. That insulation helps to reduce the noise as it is trapped by the fiberglass wool. The heat from the engine and generator head helps push the exhaust gasses out of the enclosure via the 8 inch double insulated stove pipe that is close to the exhaust muffler outlet. I'll used ceramic fiber insulation that is rated to 2,400*F to insulate the enclosure and absorb the sound waves in it's loftiness. Versus a solid barrier that will allow sounds to bounce off of it. Your idea is excellent for the average Joe to do. Not that expensive to make either. Some of us are a little more technically skilled and want to go the extra mile for more added protection in the event the generator "might" catch on fire. As well as the added bonus to help reduce sounds coming from the enclosure. No sense in eating up some electricity with the fan if you have the knowhow to utilize the engine and generator cooling fans. Nice thing about LP and natural gas, the carburetor never gums up like it does with unleaded gasoline.
"... the carburetor never gums up like it does with unleaded gasoline." I have two m/cs..a '99 Vulcan Nomad1500 and a '80 Honda 900 custom, a Duro Max 5300 gen, and a A-iPower 2300 inverter gen. I put 91 Octane in all of them, plus for over kill add a little Stabil. The 87 Octane ethanol mix will definitely gum up carbs, hoses etc as I have had first hand experience. I find little performance difference between the 87 and the 91, but the biggest upside is that I have yet to have gumming issues using 91 Octane. So yes, LP and NG are cleaner on parts, but for folks that may not avail themselves of those two sources, for whatever the reason, thecan operate with effectively with 91 octane, as a viable option. Just my humble input as a non technical, non mechanic type guy.
Hope the owner never has a fire, or no one gets hurt due to your installation. You have taken on a lot of liability here. You have probably violated most of the instructions, and cautions listed in the operating manual for the generator. These generators were never intended to be put in an enclosure, because of the fire and carbon monoxide hazard that can be created. That flexible gas line, right at the meter, is going to be red tagged by the gas company as soon as they see it. They don’t appreciate contractors using their pressure measuring tap for a gas supply.Those flexible appliance gas connectors are not designed for vibrating generators, and when it cracks, and raw gas comes in contact with the hot exhaust, you are going to have a fire. With all that work, you you have created a non Code installation, voided the warranty on the generator, and created a fire hazard. If I were you, I would tear out everything you have done, before there is a fire or explosion, and someone gets hurt or killed. If the fire doesn’t kill someone, the carbon monoxide entering the building will. This is coming from a retired Union mechanical contractor.
Where are you when I need you ?😄 We are currently waiting on our new DuroMax 12000EH generator and I found this video and absolutely love the work you did in setting up this generator with insulated housing. Trying to find a guy like you that seems very skilled will be tough as even I do have this skill set. Great install and video!
There is some good logic here. I’m not in a trade, so I have no comment regarding the natural gas hook up. However that exhaust run is really long. Are you concerned with increased back pressure or burning the exhaust valves? The Duromax is deafening loud. Ask me how I know.
Im not too worried about the valves. When I was researching this project I came across a lot of info on people routing RV generator exhausts much further. I believe the slow sweeping bends and the ample ID's of the tubing I used should present 0 problems. Thanks for watching.
backpressure or burning valves would come into play if he removed the muffler, the muffler is also built for this, so he will not have backpressure issues.
Great job, great video. I have only one criticism. Your ground rod should be tied into the whole house ground at the meter. If you don’t have a concentric ground, you could have issues.
Excellent work there. Just a little reminder to beginners. As with all adjustments, pay attention to the starting point of the fuel/air screw, so you'll have a reference point, if you get it too far out of adjustment one way or the other. I usually mark the screw head, and the body, frame,etc. of whatever it's attached to.
That is a sound statement but you are not considering that it is in a near a entrance and exhaust would be a hazard, so elevating it to a higher point will dissipate it.
He could’ve used a bigger pipe and opted for some sort of rainproofing or oversized secondary muffler to keep dirt dobbers and wasps out of the open end. I would have put a 180 bend on it at the top, so it had the open end turned to face the ground. Then cut a piece of steel mesh to fit over the end before I wrapped it.
Eh, just put an exhaust tractor flapper over top.. and its a 2 stroke, they dont give a damn about backpressure.. they put friggen tight mesh screens in the exhaust as spark arrestors.. they only run funky if those get straight clogged up tight...
@@Z-Ack Only problem is it's an OHV 4 stroke engine. You're supposed to shut it down every 8 hours or so to check the oil. Though I rarely had to add oil more than once in 24hrs with mine running constantly during a 3 day outage. I would love to hook mine to a gas line like that. The reduced output might be worth not worrying about refueling it.
FOR THOSE THAT THINK THIS IS A GOOD IDEA .... IT'S NOT! DON'T DO AS YOU SEE. IF YOU SEE IT ON UA-cam, IT DOESN'T MAKE IT SAFE or LEGAL. DON'T BE A MONKEY SEE, MONKEY DO. DO YOUR OWN HOMEWORK.
It would be much quieter if the customer was using the "correct" inverter style generator that is safe for electronics. That generator is a construction style generator. Those are much cheaper and unfortunately, many people buy them for the price, not realizing why they are cheaper.
That only applies if you are plugging directing into the generator. So stop with the bullshit "you know it all" attitude. What this guy did is perfectly fine for a whole house setup.
Inverters don't generally have the power these open style generators have. I want to power everything necessary in my home in a power outage. I say have both but this the way to go if you have a family that likes hot water, use of their devices & not losing food. I have 2 refrigerators & I'm not trying to lose the food.
Man those portable generators are a bitch to quieten down. What I do these days is build a double drywall structure. Basically just 3 pieces of drywall separated by a 2x3 each. On all 6 sides. This gives the sound waves more area to refract and dampen. Everything else I tried would only lower it by 10~ decibels. This would lower it even more so than an inverter generator. It's much more bulky though.
Yeh, it was a lot quieter but still not what you'd like. If you're in the house/garage or on the opposite side of the lot you dont hear it. Id equate it to a quiet lawnmower. What area do you live? Are these generator installs common?
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 TX. Nah not really. I usually do the boxes for food trucks, done 7 of them. I've done lots of soundproofing construction for people who think they're going to be famous rappers, same principles. Yeah definitely the easiest way to reduce the noise is to just find a way to get far away from it lol.
Every Family should be a Prepper, and if you can't afford a professional whole house backup generator, this is a great second choice - you do excellent work ! It's good to know construction and electrical skills - always needed skills that serve you well.
This is a really really cool set up..but come on. In an extreme emergency who gives a rat's a$$ about being quiet. I mean unless you plan on running your whole house 24/7-365 off of this set up than yes.
You might do better using marine engine compartment insulation, which has built-in sound deadening layers. Something like Sundown Sound Stop panels. Rmax Thermasheath is a thermal insulation, and is pretty poor when it comes to sound dampening.
Save yourself a lot of labor and money Go to Big Box stores and build out of Masonry blocks and frame with wood frame with wood then use tile cement board for ceiling, Now you have a FIREPROOF housing for your generator! Lay blocks leaving enough for vents. No need for expensive electrical fans and causing fire hazards, if fan failed causing generator to overheat and ignite like a roman candle! Generator can catch on fire with any fuel used when combustion air is insufficient! Much cheaper than all this flimsy product! Why do you think commercial building use Masonry Block and concrete products! Because good engineering practice calls for these products. This plastic housing will eventually need to be replaced sooner than later and in high wind zones may not last one season. Masonry will last a life time and be a bigger bang for the buck and cheaper than just the plastic, also you having the additional cost of this cheap insulation that's not anywhere near the sound reduction as concrete blocks. and in addition you could even make it even more sound reducing as an option by pouring masonry cement filling up the cavity of the blocks. Portland cement is very inexpensive product but last a lifetime. Stay away from this video if you are looking out for the safety of your family! If you don't believe me as your local fire marshal before spending a lot of time and money the energy you will spend in researching will be well worth it! Gran Paw always said boy do it right the first time b/c having to redo cost twice as much and I think he was on to something!
Are we holding all residential projects to commercial standards now? A CMU structure wouldve made the footprint MUCH larger in an already limited area. Not only that but talk about an attention grabber, commercial block structure vs the common trash can enclosure. The homeowner said when he moves he wants to take this system with him. Now I wont argue with your point that CMU wouldve been better. CMU is better, thats a fact, its much better. It just wasnt feasible in this situation. There are very simple things that could be done to this system to prevent overheating. Like opening the doors, adding an overtemp sensor, adding an oil cooler, etc. But it hasnt proven necessary. You mention the safety of your family, if thats paramount then I assume your family car is an army tank, you only eat organic and you never go outside without hats and sunscreen on. Tornadoes? better live in a bunker. Hurricanes? Better live in a container. Earthquakes? better live on a houseboat on a small lake. Wildfires? better move. You cant just say 'you should do it this way' without understanding the circumstances. Thanks for the thoughts!
I do sound attenuation all time. Pretty good job! You could have put baffle boxes on the air intake and exhaust vents, increase the diameter of exhaust line, put a muffler on it too. Since exhaust is point up a rain cap should be used, other wise rain is going to fill up in the engine head or deeper.
@@elmohusky9960 it's not really the exhaust noise that is the biggest problem, it's actually the genset itself that makes the most noise, but a muffler is not a bad idea either.
No cussing wouldn’t be in my forte, I would have lost my religion 5 minutes into the project. My wife hates to be around me when I start any project. Lol.
So many ppl impressed with such a crap build, not to mention a complete fire hazard ! Would love to see the permit and inspection on this.. please pray the homeowner doesn't die if this is ever to be used
Beautiful job. I live in a country where electricity is scarce (6-hour outages every day) and I managed to buy 2 generators. I can't get propane cylinders, but I was able to connect the dual fuel system to my home's natural gas line. To achieve this, I had to modify the gas regulator that the generator has. One day I could use it for up to 1 full day with a 70% charge. Many people believe that natural gas cannot be used from the home line, but man does.
NG is how all whole house generators (Generac, Kohler, Cummins, Briggs) normally work, at least in North America. I have a 22KW Generac on NG. I also have NG conversion kits on my portable Honda 7KW and 2KW backups.
@@ChatGPT1111 If you're out in the countryside they'll be either diesel or propane for a whole house rig. A friend of mine has a 100KW diesel Generac for their farm/shop. As I understand it, her dad got it at a military surplus sale.
Glad to see someone putting some type of cover on these gen's that are not for outdoor use in bad weather. Only thing the inlet receptacle doesn't have an in use cover that is the main thing I see most all of the DIY UA-camrs doing. They seem to miss the fact that most likely it wont be bluebird sky's when you need your gen. Question what's the 20Lb. tank for?
Isn't that long exhaust pipe going to create back pressure on that engine. Also why did you have to modify the frame of the genny if it was already hybrid compatible?
my thoughts exactly on the exhaust. 3 bends in it as well, would definitely need some sound absorption at the end a 3" pipe, will sound cool, Cummings cool but bug your neighbors.
From a generator manual: (May or may not apply in this case.) "Excessive exhaust backpressure reduces engine power and engine life and may lead to high exhaust temperatures and smoke. Engine exhaust back pressure should be estimated before the layout of the exhaust system is finalized and it should be measured at the exhaust outlet under full-load operation before the set is placed in service"
Mcmaster carr. I measured the thimble, subtracted the exhaust OD then bought a spring with an OD that was half that measurement Thimble ID (minus) Exhaust OD (Divided) by 2 = spring OD
This is great! Wow, excellent job! My question is this though: Is there a concern for moisture in the exhaust line that could both stop the air flow and cause the inside of that 1" pipe to eventually rust? I know it's galvanized but it doesn't take that much time to rust that pipe. My house was only 4 years old when I changed out the exhaust fan in my master bath and the conduit pipe with the wiring inside that goes into the attic to get power was rusted! I'm also surprised you didn't tap into the gas line *AFTER* the furnace and water heater.... Usually large gas suckers like this genny will starve other things such as furnaces, water heaters and stoves so they suggest to put it in "further down the line" I have a tri-fuel for my genny too but it's only 8500 watts. Looks like you did a 50A interlock VS mine is only a 30A. Overall you get an A+!! I kinda wanna build a cage around mine so I can get my big genny out of the garage and leave it hooked up all the time... Right now I have to wheel it out back, hook the gas line up and do it that way. Of course my power doesn't go out that much either so is it worth the time for me? Maybe not.
Haven't yet watched the video as we installed a Tri fuel for an 8700W (yes it is enough for our needs!) generator and have needed it a few times for a day or so in the last 4 years. Great investment IMO
Honda doesn't offer a propane generator at 10k . only up to 7k. So why not go propane where you can store fuel for indefinite with that and not worry about it going bad ?
This is the best install job for a generator enclosure that I have seen on UA-cam. You took your time and the attention to detail is outstanding. By the way, what is the name and model number of your trash can enclosure? Thank you!
Great job, but please remove the grill cyl tank from your enclosure when using the generator - you have a lot of ignition sources should the grill cyl tank leak
Great job. The only thing I would have done different is I would have spaced out that exhaust pipe away from the house wall about 3 inches or so and put some exhaust header heat wrap around that flex pipe coming out of the generator muffler inside the cabinet.
Probably wouldnt hurt. I kept it unwrapped just in case they ever unhooked it and moved the gen. The exhaust is cool enough by the house that I didnt feel like it needed to be spaced anymore. That said this is stucco, if it was wood or vinyl then I def would space it further
What a great job. Learned a lot. I just got the Duromax 10,000 duel fuel generator and was looking at a small shed to house it in where it will be used. Never thought of the insulation.
@@wesman7837 you jumped to conclusions. I just said what I spent for a generator. And trying to comment that if you had to pay a contractor a fair amount plus materials, it would quickly add up.
You have a really good idea and are very talented. There is no doubt this system will work out well. One question - Add up the cost of everything you spent, from the generator, pipe, tri-fuel adapter kit, caulks, tools, - everything for the entire project. Wouldn't of been cheaper, faster and easier just to have a Generac Full Home Standby permanent generator? Generac 10kW with Wi-Fi smart phone control starts at $2,759.
Full home will also require a transfer switch... my Generac ATS (automatic transfer switch) was about a thousand. Gas plumbing and electrical hookup will run a thousand or so (there's a lot of wiring to be done to install the transfer switch for whole house), generator pad if you need it. A DIY install, subcontracting out the parts like electrical, can save you a lot of money, but I'd estimate you're still looking at $2-3K on top of the generator itself. I have a Generac 27KW QS (quiet series), which runs about $11K, and my turn-key install was $15K. So $4K of that was the transfer switch, electrical, concrete pad, and gas hookup which was slightly more expensive because the had to have the gas company run a new gas line and meter because my house gas meter was on completely the other side of the house from where my power meter and gen install was. I did my whole house install 11 years ago and have been very happy. You can see the video at ua-cam.com/video/dbLVGYW59PY/v-deo.html
In 2015, I got an estimate from Lowes for a whole house 20kw Generac install w/ transfer switch for $5500. I foolishly didn't want to spend that much. The same install was $10,000 in 2018, and surely more than that today. I ended up buying a Sportsman GENTRI9K tri-fuel portable generator rated at 9000 watts surge/7200 watts run, but surely 25% power loss when running on NG. Price in 2018 was $1500. Can be a little finicky and unstable on NG, but will simultaneously run the fridge, all lights, two fans, sump pump, garage door opener, and two 8000 BTU window AC units. Thinking about buying the Duromax XP12000EH and adding an NG conversion kit.
prettygirlus900 I own the Duromax XP1200EH. A great generator and have also considered a NG hookup to make it tri-fuel. Be sure to do you load calculations carefully as the amount of running current will drop significantly with natural gas through a LP gas system. It would be awful to buy the Duromax , new regulator and adapter kit to end up short and not enough power for a full house backup. Doing the math and load calculations is extremely important.
Never cut the frame . If you have to cut the frame then its a shitty kit . Also you should install that regulator in the front of the generator . Nothing hanging out , you dont lose your clearance on the sides .
@@flick22601 10-15% loss maybe, far from useless just less efficient... propane is readily available or you can change the fuel jets and hook it up to your natural gas and never run out of fuel(kinda)
Wow bad sound management. Exhaust pipe needs further muffling. There also needs to have sound deadening where the fan exhaust hot air along with fresh air intake. All that money for 11db is horrible. It does look pretty. Sigh
Thanks for the video. Great attention to detail and showed all the angles and parts that DIY'ers like me will need when implementing this myself. Very helpful.
I loved the whole idea of trying to suppress the sound, but it seem to only bring it down a few decibels, im not sure if it was all worth the time and money. Thank you for sharing , this help me decide to go with the genetic model .
Thanks for taking the time to post this video. Nice build. I've made a pretty nice system as well. My concern is operating temperature. My question to you is, have you monitored the operating temperature of your system while it is under load? What is that temperature and are you comfortable with it?
@@tsb2752 You missed the point. Laboring and spending money with little to no benefit, is neither efficient or productive. Not a wise use time and money.
Great video - I just did a similar install only in a home built 4x8 shed. In Houston here too and I agree with your cost assessment. 3 grand and a few minutes to plug in the interlock cable when you need it (once every few years) vs $25k is a no brainer for me! Well done!
The reflective layers from inside the box will cause the generator to overheat, it's gonna be like an oven. You need to remove or cover them to avoid the radiated heat from the generator to be reflected back to it, not the other way around. Also, rockwool would be more than twice as efficient to achieve what you wanted to achieve. Styrofoam transmits sound almost like wood, it doesn't dampen it.
Cool build! My key takeaways from this were use of the clamp to adapt the exhaust pipe to the flexible hose, use of the exhaust sealer compound on the joints, wrapping the exhaust with the tape, using the fireblock as sealer, and the spring to center the exhaust pipe in the b vent. Also the commenter who suggested adding a heat sensor as a kill switch had a very good idea
Just completed the break-in period and so far the unit is operating perfectly ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y . I was amazed by just how quiet this little guy is. I kept having to walk down the driveway to the generator to make sure it was still running. In fact, the most annoying noise coming from the set-up is a high-pitched chirping coming from the pressure regulator on the propane line. I suppose it's possible my other propane-powered generator's pressure regulator is making the same noise, but the generator itself is so loud I've never noticed it. Build quality so far is excellent. My only nit is the service panel is a little tricky to remove. I feel like I might break off one of the plastic tabs when bending it back. I probably just need to work out the technique, so will not hold it against Champion.Next week I intend to fully load the unit to charge a large battery pack and will update this review if there's any problem (3000W continuous load vs a rated 3100W capacity while using propane). Absent any trouble there, I'm 100% pleased with this purchase.
I see a lot of comments on this video and I could not read them all, so I don't know if anyone has mentioned this or not. I have the same generator and I built my cabinet very much the same way that you did yours. My power went out yesterday and I turned on the generator and it was working fine when I shut the cabinet. However, sometime while I was inside watching TV , the exhaust fan malfunctioned and stopped working, so there was no airflow through the cabinet. Needless to say it got pretty hot inside the cabinet and almost started a fire. I used the same insulation that you did and a lot of it melted. It was so hot that I burned myself when I touched the ignition switch to turn off the generator. The ignition switch is frozen now and I ordered a new one. Once it arrives I will attempt to start the generator to see how much damage there is to the motor. It didn't sound good when I turned it off. All of this is to say, you also need to install a temperature switch that will turn off the unit if the cabinet gets too hot. You want one that defaults in the open position and closes when the desired temp is reached. You can get them from Amazon for about $10 and wire one into the the switch that shuts the unit down when the oil level is low. You just run a wire from the ground to the switch and from the switch to the wire that comes out of the oil shut off switch that is screwed into the motor. That temp switch can then be zip tied to the frame of the generator. That way, if the exhaust fan fails for any reason, the generator will turn off before any damage or fire occurs.
Dang, Im sorry to hear that. It mustve gotten pretty warm in there. So a fail-safe is critical. What was the indicator this was happening? I was told by the owner of this unit that he has a bluetooth temp probe that goes to his phone with alerts. Its actually intended for a BBQ but it monitors the enclosure temp just as well. It wont turn the unit off automatically though. Im going to look into a switch like you mentioned. A typical air cooled, aluminum head engine can withstand temps up to 375F, Hopefully you didnt get that high. Please keep me posted.
SOOOOOOOOO read my comments ! I'm not a fool.
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Sorry it took so long to get back to you on this. The ignition switch was melted to the point that I could not start the generator. After ordering and installing a new one, I was able to start the generator and it was making some pretty scary noises. It appears as if the motor is okay, but the generator is shot. It looks like the wire windings or whatever just melted. I was not able to get the needed parts to fix it, so I ended up buying a new generator. The foam in the cabinet was the same as you used and it was pretty much melted too and needed to be replaced. I have now repaired the cabinet and installed a new generator, with the heat kill switch. I also put a thermometer sending unit in the cabinet that sends the temp to a receiver in the house, so that I can monitor the cabinet temp. I don't know why the fan failed because it only had about 5 hours total time on it. The fan motor could have been defective, but my theory is that the fan was not large enough to remove sufficient heat from the cabinet. That may have caused the fan motor to overheat and fail. I have now way over engineered the airflow system. I tripled the size of the fan and added a lot more makeup air vents. It's like a wind tunnel in there now. I also decided to use two heat kill switches. One is set 10 degrees higher than the other, so that if one fails the other will still do the job. I am not taking any chances this time. A whole set of the switches cost about $10 from Amazon. The entire repair came to almost $2000 because I failed to engineer in a cheap heat kill switch. Boy do I feel stupid. Anyway, you did a great video. Thanks for sharing it.
Came to comment section to ask if it is safe to store more propane and gasoline in the cabinet... but now seeing this comment it makes me worry lol. With a heat kill switch and a temp monitor do you think it would be safe? I could just build a box next to the generator cabinet for those things if needed. Just don't want it to get stolen etc.
@@The_Bearded_Lady I had a 20 lb propane tank stored in the cabinet when it overheated. It didn't blow up, but I think I caught it just before it did. That could have been catastrophic because the cabinet is located about eight feet from my house. Had it blown while I was trying to shut down the generator, I would most likely be dead right now. The temp monitor and the two kill switches definitely add much needed protection. Still, I no longer keep the propane tank inside the cabinet. I have it stored outside the cabinet and I cover it with a small tarp. I only run the generator with propane to avoid carburetor contamination, so I have two 100 lb propane tanks located outside about eight feet from the cabinet and that is also where I put the 20 lb tank. I don't know if you are aware of this, but you can purchase an adapter for the 100 lb tanks that will allow the 20 lb fitting to work on them. So, the bottom line is, my personal recommendation is to put safety first and keep all flammable materials out of the cabinet. When I look back at what happened I am really embarrassed because I should have known better than to risk my life and my families lives on one fan. All mechanical devices are subject to failure and when that failure may result in serious damage or injuries, it's always wise to have at least one back up system in place and never take chances. Boy do I feel stupid, not to mention very lucky. I hope that helps. By the way, check out my channel. I show you how to do your own pest control safely, effectively, and cheaply. I don't' make any money on it. I just like to help people save money. Here's the link to my trailer. It's only 85 seconds long and will take you to my channel. I think it's kind of funny too. You may enjoy it. Thanks. Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/UJi8t1SprKU/v-deo.html
For the viewers information 70-71 dBA is the normal conversation sound level in an office. So achieving 69 dBA is pretty impressive. Great job and nice work!
Thanks for the useful comment!
@WhyAlways I thought sound decibels are logarithmic and not linear? So that few decibel reduction is noticeable.
Very impressive. For further silencing maybe a couple motorcycle mufflers in line. A shed is super easy to build, but pretty lightweight. Adding some concrete panels inside would help reflect it away from the thin plastic.
@@Vlfkfnejisjejrjtjrie You are correct. A 3 db increase in volume is twice as loud as the previous level. A 3 db drop is a reduction of 50%,
@WhyAlways 10 decibal reduction is apparently a 10 fold reduction in noise acording to Google butif its down to 69 its probably quite enough to live with
this guys motto is, "If your gonna do it, do it right the first time" excellent work dude
You been on this video for a week now, we're almost on a first name basis
YEAH NEED TO UPGRADE MY HOME WITH SOMETHING LIKE THIS. THIS RECENT ICE STORM AND SNOW HERE IN TEXAS WAS NOT FUN AT ALL.
Exactly. That's why I ended up here. I bought a similar generator. This guy's work is excellent.
I had three pipes burst during the Texas storms and bought a generator this size to mitigate summer outages as well. This guy is a true professional with his work and skills. Badass. I wish he was local.
Yep, we are in Texas also, watched this video a few weeks ago, had decided on a complete home backup system. The wait list is 1+/2022, canceled that and picked up a Winco DP7500 yesterday. Going to build basically the same setup, except I’m going to run about 6 permanent circuits not connected to the normal power. Thanks for the video !
Thanks for typing in caps. Much easier
I will trade you for 106 degrees at midnight with eleven old dogs who could die if you go to work.
My 13,000 watt gen overheated and melted my box. DO NOT put your generator in a plastic garbage can hut. Build a solid structure
Congrats man, what a perfect, professional job you did installing. What was the final cost of this install to the homeowner?
I’ll like to know I live in the eastern part of the state. I would gladly pay this dude trip to install me one.
Nice box ! The controlling issue with sound reduction is reducing reflective sound waves. Sound (especially higher frequency) waves travel line of sight. The way to reduce their effect on your ear is to include multiple baffles for the redirection of the sound waves. Sound deadening material is helpful as it is harder to bounce off of a soft surface.
I built this same box with no experience. 2012 we lost power to Hurricane Sandy for 2 weeks. I was the only person on my block with power because I had 2 generators one 6500 & 5500. Hating ass jealous neighbors was complaining about noise. Built this box & it did wonders. Only thing I did different was I added a 4inch vent pipe with a 90 elbow just to help with exhaust & getting heat out box.
Noisy inconsiderate ahole!
@@IFIXCASTLES 😆
If the neighbors had generators, I'll guranatee they wouldn't be complaining about any noise.
I'm pretty sure your neighbors weren't bothered by the noise, but by the fact you had everything ready and under control!!!
Similar situation I already had when hurricane Gilbert struck the yucatan peninsula in 1988!!
At 11:10 you need to put an HVAC air filter between the grilles. Not only will it keep the dirt out but it will also baffle the sound down!
don't even need this, but couldn't stop watching the clean install!
10-4.
3-4" of semi rigid mineral wool panels would be way better on noise reduction I believe. It's also pretty cheap.
Only thing you might want to do is check to see if neutral is grounded on the generator. If so uncouple the ground from the neutral so that you only have a ground at your electrical panel otherwise you will get current on your ground wire in your cable from the generator to your panel.
Should NOT have grounded the generator since it's already grounded at the main service panel. The NEUTRAL BOND at the generator head should also be removed if used to power a grid connected building in the event of an outage.
Thank you for posting this, I have the same generator and I'm planning on converting it to Tri-fuel. Your the only video I could find that shows this generator running on natural gas. I suggest you update your tags for this video to include the modle name of Duromax "XP12000EH" as many owners of this generator who are interested in conversion and can find this video
Thanks, will do
Definitely doing something like this to my home. We lost power for several days due to the ice storm couple weeks back.
The exhaust pipe extending outside by approx 10 ft. is a good idea, but making it the same dia. as the generator's pipe outlet is causing excessive back pressure to the engine. That's the reason your carburetor settings were initially off. You effectively changed the engine's overall tuning. It would be less restrictive to use a much larger outlet pipe. At least 3" (same dia. as dryer vent you installed. The larger dia won't build as much back pressure and also help keep water out of engine.
You beat me to the punch there that is correct plus causing the overall back pressure on the engine which can cause excessive heat & wear. Nice job though
Purchase a Camco RV exhaust extension kit. It works great, it's easy to install, and will not affect the engine performance.
Makes sense ... I have the same generator and the way I got around it was not making it a perfect seal! I found a connector that slides over the exhaust outlet but it's not clamped down. The enclosure it outside, the side walls are open to air 6" under the roof, it runs with the front barn doors open, so it's ok if the exhaust is not perfect.
Since it is open upward that way, you need to put a downward bend on the end of that exhaust pipe as it is going to catch rain and send it down to the engine.
Rain cap.
He actually has it pointing out not up.
2" Rockwool insulation is better. Better sound absorption than Styrofoam and it is fire proof.
I agree, using rockwool insulation on the inside panels will pretty much absorb the sound making it quite.
I’d recommend something flexible and high mass. Maybe rubber mat.
Maybe he prefer not working with rockwool.
@@stevetyler2586 *quiet. Say it outloud to yourself. "Quite" is totally different.
@@stevetyler2586 How would you install the Rockwool insulation? I assume you would frame out the interior of the shed? Or do you have something else in mind? What about the lid?
I ORDERED A tractor muffler from tractor supply, comes with 1 1/4" exhaust pipe with 90, works perfectly for mine!
What a perfect professional job. If you don't mind me asking how much was all this work not including the generator? Do you happen to know anyone that can do the same in Houston Texas?
should not run u more than $2500.00 but there are many ways of doing this for $1500-2000 watch more videos
This is truly a great job. I enjoyed watching it
Why did you run the exhaust up the wall? But since you did shouldn't you have pointed the top of the pipe a bit downward so it wouldn't catch water? Also that's an invitation for insects to nest and plug it up. You definitely need a solenoid valve on the gas line to stop the gas if the generator stops. That's a real safety issue but maybe I just missed it. Also that foam you added around the fan is exposed to sunlight and will crumble in no time. It should be caulked. Cutting the frame was a bad idea as it will probably introduce vibration and definitely weakened it and will definitely void the warranty. I would have sunk a high-security chain into the concrete foundation and used a high-security lock to secure the genset. (vultures, vultures everywhere)
It appears that you really know what you're doing, and that you take great pride in doing the job right! Thanks!
Besides all the comments worth considering, I’d say that a safety shutoff in case of fan failure would be a must, my friend! I do a lot of commissioning and QC not to mention my own setups and safety is always the number one concern. A backup generator is pretty useless on a burned house...
I agree, do you have a product that you use to hook up a high-temp shutoff circuit?
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 I never had to do this in a DYI situation, so I would go the path of least resistance and try a temp sensor wired to the generator shut-off circuit (the "off" button) to star and try how well it works by unplugging the fan and closing the box and wait. It shouldn't take long...
Yeah imagine if that generator caught on fire and the only way to put it out would be to cut off the natural gas, which is less than 3 feet away. this generator is in the wrong place, also I don’t see the point of putting it on the house except or for aesthetic purposes, I wouldn’t sacrifice safety for that. A plastic shed is going to be an eyesore any where
I would suggest adding Rockwool sound absorbing panels to the inside of the foam panels. It would further reduce the sound and they are fireproof.
No, these types of insulation are not going to benefit, only create problems. For the lamen, would you wrap an engine with a blanket to keep it cool from the sun? No. You shade it. Provide air cooling pathways and paint everything you can flat black.
He could have made a top open baffle or shroud around the fan and a bottom open baffle around the inlet too. That would have done a lot for the noise. Felt board (asphalt impregnated board) would have been good for sound deadening.
No, sound absorbing isn't the same as sound blocking. You need mass to block sound, not fluffy insulation.
@@Hema1400 - I agree. I'd put some 1/2" plywood baffling on the inside between the inlet vent and the generator and between the powered output vent and the generator being careful not to restrict cooling airflow. Try to get the Genset on rubber feet to keep some of the energy from being coupled to the plastic floor and to the walls, doors and lid which then vibrate and act like speakers. If you put your hand on the outer surfaces I bet you can feel significant vibrations from the genset.
The answer is the first thing he used, horse mat
Dude!!!! You a friggin’ AWESOME!!!!! 💪🏽👍🏽🙏🏽
I need the EXACT same set up but for propane. Can you recommend someone in NJ??
WHAT WAS THE PRICE TAG ON THIS AWESOME PROJECT?
Very impressive! I wonder what the total cost of this installation was? Yes, you'd have a VERY big business doing this here in Texas right now!!! You can start on my house!
Mine has a duct for the engine cooling fan shroud and the generator cooling inlet directly to the outside via an insulated flex pipe. That insulation helps to reduce the noise as it is trapped by the fiberglass wool. The heat from the engine and generator head helps push the exhaust gasses out of the enclosure via the 8 inch double insulated stove pipe that is close to the exhaust muffler outlet. I'll used ceramic fiber insulation that is rated to 2,400*F to insulate the enclosure and absorb the sound waves in it's loftiness. Versus a solid barrier that will allow sounds to bounce off of it.
Your idea is excellent for the average Joe to do. Not that expensive to make either. Some of us are a little more technically skilled and want to go the extra mile for more added protection in the event the generator "might" catch on fire. As well as the added bonus to help reduce sounds coming from the enclosure. No sense in eating up some electricity with the fan if you have the knowhow to utilize the engine and generator cooling fans.
Nice thing about LP and natural gas, the carburetor never gums up like it does with unleaded gasoline.
"... the carburetor never gums up like it does with unleaded gasoline." I have two m/cs..a '99 Vulcan Nomad1500 and a '80 Honda 900 custom, a Duro Max 5300 gen, and a A-iPower 2300 inverter gen. I put 91 Octane in all of them, plus for over kill add a little Stabil. The 87 Octane ethanol mix will definitely gum up carbs, hoses etc as I have had first hand experience. I find little performance difference between the 87 and the 91, but the biggest upside is that I have yet to have gumming issues using 91 Octane. So yes, LP and NG are cleaner on parts, but for folks that may not avail themselves of those two sources, for whatever the reason, thecan operate with effectively with 91 octane, as a viable option. Just my humble input as a non technical, non mechanic type guy.
Hope the owner never has a fire, or no one gets hurt due to your installation. You have taken on a lot of liability here. You have probably violated most of the instructions, and cautions listed in the operating manual for the generator. These generators were never intended to be put in an enclosure, because of the fire and carbon monoxide hazard that can be created. That flexible gas line, right at the meter, is going to be red tagged by the gas company as soon as they see it. They don’t appreciate contractors using their pressure measuring tap for a gas supply.Those flexible appliance gas connectors are not designed for vibrating generators, and when it cracks, and raw gas comes in contact with the hot exhaust, you are going to have a fire. With all that work, you you have created a non Code installation, voided the warranty on the generator, and created a fire hazard. If I were you, I would tear out everything you have done, before there is a fire or explosion, and someone gets hurt or killed. If the fire doesn’t kill someone, the carbon monoxide entering the building will. This is coming from a retired Union mechanical contractor.
When all that goes down, he'll be in Albuquerque, under a different name.
Where are you when I need you ?😄 We are currently waiting on our new DuroMax 12000EH generator and I found this video and absolutely love the work you did in setting up this generator with insulated housing. Trying to find a guy like you that seems very skilled will be tough as even I do have this skill set. Great install and video!
Thanks for the comment! Good luck on your install
There is some good logic here. I’m not in a trade, so I have no comment regarding the natural gas hook up. However that exhaust run is really long. Are you concerned with increased back pressure or burning the exhaust valves? The Duromax is deafening loud. Ask me how I know.
Im not too worried about the valves. When I was researching this project I came across a lot of info on people routing RV generator exhausts much further. I believe the slow sweeping bends and the ample ID's of the tubing I used should present 0 problems. Thanks for watching.
backpressure or burning valves would come into play if he removed the muffler, the muffler is also built for this, so he will not have backpressure issues.
Great job, great video. I have only one criticism. Your ground rod should be tied into the whole house ground at the meter. If you don’t have a concentric ground, you could have issues.
Excellent work there. Just a little reminder to beginners. As with all adjustments, pay attention to the starting point of the fuel/air screw, so you'll have a reference point, if you get it too far out of adjustment one way or the other. I usually mark the screw head, and the body, frame,etc. of whatever it's attached to.
Its two full turns from tight to sea level and 1/2 turn for every few thousand.
@@fernandizo Thank you
Man that long unnecessary exhaust pipe is probably creating way to much back pressure. Choking that generator 🙄
That is a sound statement but you are not considering that it is in a near a entrance and exhaust would be a hazard, so elevating it to a higher point will dissipate it.
He could’ve used a bigger pipe and opted for some sort of rainproofing or oversized secondary muffler to keep dirt dobbers and wasps out of the open end.
I would have put a 180 bend on it at the top, so it had the open end turned to face the ground. Then cut a piece of steel mesh to fit over the end before I wrapped it.
Eh, just put an exhaust tractor flapper over top.. and its a 2 stroke, they dont give a damn about backpressure.. they put friggen tight mesh screens in the exhaust as spark arrestors.. they only run funky if those get straight clogged up tight...
Agreed. A larger diameter exhaust extension would have changed to a lower exhaust note frequency and been quieter and cooler! Maybe next time.
@@Z-Ack Only problem is it's an OHV 4 stroke engine. You're supposed to shut it down every 8 hours or so to check the oil. Though I rarely had to add oil more than once in 24hrs with mine running constantly during a 3 day outage. I would love to hook mine to a gas line like that. The reduced output might be worth not worrying about refueling it.
Can I just add, you're a badass builder. Please, take the compliment. I can tell you're a humble man. :)
Minus the generator,,,what was the cost of doing this?
FOR THOSE THAT THINK THIS IS A GOOD IDEA .... IT'S NOT! DON'T DO AS YOU SEE. IF YOU SEE IT ON UA-cam, IT DOESN'T MAKE IT SAFE or LEGAL. DON'T BE A MONKEY SEE, MONKEY DO. DO YOUR OWN HOMEWORK.
Excellent. Love your idea to use a spring to separate the pipes in the exhaust. Where did you get it and what size?
It would be much quieter if the customer was using the "correct" inverter style generator that is safe for electronics. That generator is a construction style generator. Those are much cheaper and unfortunately, many people buy them for the price, not realizing why they are cheaper.
Can you recommend where to buy a inverter style generator for home use? Thanks
That only applies if you are plugging directing into the generator. So stop with the bullshit "you know it all" attitude. What this guy did is perfectly fine for a whole house setup.
Honda or Yamaha are both good I have both. They last a long time.
Inverters don't generally have the power these open style generators have. I want to power everything necessary in my home in a power outage. I say have both but this the way to go if you have a family that likes hot water, use of their devices & not losing food. I have 2 refrigerators & I'm not trying to lose the food.
@@TheNemosdaddy Exactly! Always have to be a smarty pants in the pack. My 6500 Generac had me rocking for 2 weeks in power outage.
Dude, one word, QUALITY! Both the video and the build!! Great attention to the details!
Man those portable generators are a bitch to quieten down. What I do these days is build a double drywall structure. Basically just 3 pieces of drywall separated by a 2x3 each. On all 6 sides. This gives the sound waves more area to refract and dampen. Everything else I tried would only lower it by 10~ decibels. This would lower it even more so than an inverter generator. It's much more bulky though.
Yeh, it was a lot quieter but still not what you'd like. If you're in the house/garage or on the opposite side of the lot you dont hear it. Id equate it to a quiet lawnmower. What area do you live? Are these generator installs common?
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 TX. Nah not really. I usually do the boxes for food trucks, done 7 of them. I've done lots of soundproofing construction for people who think they're going to be famous rappers, same principles. Yeah definitely the easiest way to reduce the noise is to just find a way to get far away from it lol.
Every Family should be a Prepper, and if you can't afford a professional whole house backup generator, this is a great second choice - you do excellent work ! It's good to know construction and electrical skills - always needed skills that serve you well.
in normal countries electricity doesn't come and go on a whim so..
@@leolego2 What is a "normal country"?
This is a really really cool set up..but come on. In an extreme emergency who gives a rat's a$$ about being quiet. I mean unless you plan on running your whole house 24/7-365 off of this set up than yes.
You might do better using marine engine compartment insulation, which has built-in sound deadening layers. Something like Sundown Sound Stop panels. Rmax Thermasheath is a thermal insulation, and is pretty poor when it comes to sound dampening.
YOU ARE IMPRESSIVE,,, a very smart man that knows his trade. Thank you. I sunsbribed because of this video
Using foam boards as soundproofing material is just money waste.
Yep use lead, perfect sound insulation
Hi, Any idea where I can get the plate with chains you used to secure the generator?
Thank you for making this video, great ideas here. You have undoubtedly helped thousands and thousands of DIY.
Save yourself a lot of labor and money Go to Big Box stores and build out of Masonry blocks and frame with wood frame with wood then use tile cement board for ceiling, Now you have a FIREPROOF housing for your generator! Lay blocks leaving enough for vents. No need for expensive electrical fans and causing fire hazards, if fan failed causing generator to overheat and ignite like a roman candle! Generator can catch on fire with any fuel used when combustion air is insufficient! Much cheaper than all this flimsy product! Why do you think commercial building use Masonry Block and concrete products! Because good engineering practice calls for these products. This plastic housing will eventually need to be replaced sooner than later and in high wind zones may not last one season. Masonry will last a life time and be a bigger bang for the buck and cheaper than just the plastic, also you having the additional cost of this cheap insulation that's not anywhere near the sound reduction as concrete blocks. and in addition you could even make it even more sound reducing as an option by pouring masonry cement filling up the cavity of the blocks. Portland cement is very inexpensive product but last a lifetime. Stay away from this video if you are looking out for the safety of your family! If you don't believe me as your local fire marshal before spending a lot of time and money the energy you will spend in researching will be well worth it! Gran Paw always said boy do it right the first time b/c having to redo cost twice as much and I think he was on to something!
Are we holding all residential projects to commercial standards now? A CMU structure wouldve made the footprint MUCH larger in an already limited area. Not only that but talk about an attention grabber, commercial block structure vs the common trash can enclosure. The homeowner said when he moves he wants to take this system with him. Now I wont argue with your point that CMU wouldve been better. CMU is better, thats a fact, its much better. It just wasnt feasible in this situation. There are very simple things that could be done to this system to prevent overheating. Like opening the doors, adding an overtemp sensor, adding an oil cooler, etc. But it hasnt proven necessary. You mention the safety of your family, if thats paramount then I assume your family car is an army tank, you only eat organic and you never go outside without hats and sunscreen on. Tornadoes? better live in a bunker. Hurricanes? Better live in a container. Earthquakes? better live on a houseboat on a small lake. Wildfires? better move. You cant just say 'you should do it this way' without understanding the circumstances. Thanks for the thoughts!
I do sound attenuation all time. Pretty good job! You could have put baffle boxes on the air intake and exhaust vents, increase the diameter of exhaust line, put a muffler on it too. Since exhaust is point up a rain cap should be used, other wise rain is going to fill up in the engine head or deeper.
Thanks for the tips! I did turn the exhaust tip to a little past 90*
Nice work man, but I thought it will be silent after this hard work, at least car engine noise.
He should of put car muffler, after all the work
@@elmohusky9960 it's not really the exhaust noise that is the biggest problem, it's actually the genset itself that makes the most noise, but a muffler is not a bad idea either.
Duuuude. Wow. Thank you! Subbed. United States of Build...hell yeah.
Where did locate exhaust spring? looks 1/2 inch by 12inch
So professional! And he works alone without cussing!
No cussing!? Now that's just downright Un-American!
No cussing wouldn’t be in my forte, I would have lost my religion 5 minutes into the project. My wife hates to be around me when I start any project. Lol.
@@prestonthomas9406
No cussing ?? That's why there is video editing !! LOL
So many ppl impressed with such a crap build, not to mention a complete fire hazard ! Would love to see the permit and inspection on this.. please pray the homeowner doesn't die if this is ever to be used
Beautiful job. I live in a country where electricity is scarce (6-hour outages every day) and I managed to buy 2 generators. I can't get propane cylinders, but I was able to connect the dual fuel system to my home's natural gas line. To achieve this, I had to modify the gas regulator that the generator has. One day I could use it for up to 1 full day with a 70% charge. Many people believe that natural gas cannot be used from the home line, but man does.
Good job!
Good
At least man does !
NG is how all whole house generators (Generac, Kohler, Cummins, Briggs) normally work, at least in North America. I have a 22KW Generac on NG. I also have NG conversion kits on my portable Honda 7KW and 2KW backups.
@@ChatGPT1111 If you're out in the countryside they'll be either diesel or propane for a whole house rig. A friend of mine has a 100KW diesel Generac for their farm/shop. As I understand it, her dad got it at a military surplus sale.
Nice job .
First thought I had was .
Ditch the wheels and rubber mount it to the floor .
Sweet! Very nice install and super informative video.
One of the better and complete builds I've seen
Very impressive. Your skills and knowledge cross many different technical arenas. Thank you so much for taking the time to edit and post the video!
Glad to see someone putting some type of cover on these gen's that are not for outdoor use in bad weather. Only thing the inlet receptacle doesn't have an in use cover that is the main thing I see most all of the DIY UA-camrs doing. They seem to miss the fact that most likely it wont be bluebird sky's when you need your gen. Question what's the 20Lb. tank for?
Isn't that long exhaust pipe going to create back pressure on that engine. Also why did you have to modify the frame of the genny if it was already hybrid compatible?
my thoughts exactly on the exhaust. 3 bends in it as well, would definitely need some sound absorption at the end a 3" pipe, will sound cool, Cummings cool but bug your neighbors.
From a generator manual: (May or may not apply in this case.)
"Excessive exhaust backpressure reduces engine power and engine life and may lead to high exhaust
temperatures and smoke. Engine exhaust back pressure should be estimated before the layout of the exhaust
system is finalized and it should be measured at the exhaust outlet under full-load operation before the set is
placed in service"
where could i find that spring you used that goes in exhaust pipe
Mcmaster carr. I measured the thimble, subtracted the exhaust OD then bought a spring with an OD that was half that measurement
Thimble ID (minus) Exhaust OD (Divided) by 2 = spring OD
Well done sir! Excellent build.
You need positive air pressure in the box or you will have engine problems.
This is great! Wow, excellent job! My question is this though: Is there a concern for moisture in the exhaust line that could both stop the air flow and cause the inside of that 1" pipe to eventually rust? I know it's galvanized but it doesn't take that much time to rust that pipe. My house was only 4 years old when I changed out the exhaust fan in my master bath and the conduit pipe with the wiring inside that goes into the attic to get power was rusted! I'm also surprised you didn't tap into the gas line *AFTER* the furnace and water heater.... Usually large gas suckers like this genny will starve other things such as furnaces, water heaters and stoves so they suggest to put it in "further down the line" I have a tri-fuel for my genny too but it's only 8500 watts. Looks like you did a 50A interlock VS mine is only a 30A. Overall you get an A+!! I kinda wanna build a cage around mine so I can get my big genny out of the garage and leave it hooked up all the time... Right now I have to wheel it out back, hook the gas line up and do it that way. Of course my power doesn't go out that much either so is it worth the time for me? Maybe not.
Haven't yet watched the video as we installed a Tri fuel for an 8700W (yes it is enough for our needs!) generator and have needed it a few times for a day or so in the last 4 years. Great investment IMO
About a professional install as you could ask for. I still would have bought a Honda! To each his own!
Yeah if you have money I would too, but one of those is about $1,000, and a 10k Honda is about $5,000.
Honda doesn't offer a propane generator at 10k . only up to 7k. So why not go propane where you can store fuel for indefinite with that and not worry about it going bad ?
It’s nice to see quality work and someone who cares to go above and beyond. I would have like more sound barrier.
I would be worried about overheating the generator with the to small diameter exhaust pipe running so long of distance.
Great job on the install and more video!
This is the best install job for a generator enclosure that I have seen on UA-cam. You took your time and the attention to detail is outstanding. By the way, what is the name and model number of your trash can enclosure? Thank you!
Looks like you have a bit of an over zealous fan ... you handled things well!
👍
Great job, but please remove the grill cyl tank from your enclosure when using the generator - you have a lot of ignition sources should the grill cyl tank leak
Need a sound baffle around the exhaust fan that draws the air from the top, would cut the sound by 6-8 more db...
Great job. The only thing I would have done different is I would have spaced out that exhaust pipe away from the house wall about 3 inches or so and put some exhaust header heat wrap around that flex pipe coming out of the generator muffler inside the cabinet.
Probably wouldnt hurt. I kept it unwrapped just in case they ever unhooked it and moved the gen. The exhaust is cool enough by the house that I didnt feel like it needed to be spaced anymore. That said this is stucco, if it was wood or vinyl then I def would space it further
What a great job. Learned a lot. I just got the Duromax 10,000 duel fuel generator and was looking at a small shed to house it in where it will be used. Never thought of the insulation.
Nice, I would like to try something like that, but I'm too lazy. LOL
Great job. Seems like with all that you're probably not saving much money over an enclosed installed Generac.
I just got a quote for a generac 22kw installed for $14k i priced a setup like that for $3500 if i install it myself.
@@JS-nk4re awesome. I spent about $1000. As much as I should have to use it.... I'll be fine. I'm happy I have enough for what I need.
@@mjc4942 you got a Generac standby for a 1,000$ installed? I'm calling BS on that one!
@@wesman7837 you jumped to conclusions. I just said what I spent for a generator. And trying to comment that if you had to pay a contractor a fair amount plus materials, it would quickly add up.
Excellent video, very instructional, very good craftsmanship, glad I came across this installation.
You have a really good idea and are very talented. There is no doubt this system will work out well. One question - Add up the cost of everything you spent, from the generator, pipe, tri-fuel adapter kit, caulks, tools, - everything for the entire project. Wouldn't of been cheaper, faster and easier just to have a Generac Full Home Standby permanent generator? Generac 10kW with Wi-Fi smart phone control starts at $2,759.
Maybe. My part was just what was shown in the video. Id be curious to know the answer too though
Full home will also require a transfer switch... my Generac ATS (automatic transfer switch) was about a thousand. Gas plumbing and electrical hookup will run a thousand or so (there's a lot of wiring to be done to install the transfer switch for whole house), generator pad if you need it. A DIY install, subcontracting out the parts like electrical, can save you a lot of money, but I'd estimate you're still looking at $2-3K on top of the generator itself. I have a Generac 27KW QS (quiet series), which runs about $11K, and my turn-key install was $15K. So $4K of that was the transfer switch, electrical, concrete pad, and gas hookup which was slightly more expensive because the had to have the gas company run a new gas line and meter because my house gas meter was on completely the other side of the house from where my power meter and gen install was. I did my whole house install 11 years ago and have been very happy. You can see the video at ua-cam.com/video/dbLVGYW59PY/v-deo.html
In 2015, I got an estimate from Lowes for a whole house 20kw Generac install w/ transfer switch for $5500. I foolishly didn't want to spend that much. The same install was $10,000 in 2018, and surely more than that today. I ended up buying a Sportsman GENTRI9K tri-fuel portable generator rated at 9000 watts surge/7200 watts run, but surely 25% power loss when running on NG. Price in 2018 was $1500. Can be a little finicky and unstable on NG, but will simultaneously run the fridge, all lights, two fans, sump pump, garage door opener, and two 8000 BTU window AC units. Thinking about buying the Duromax XP12000EH and adding an NG conversion kit.
prettygirlus900 I own the Duromax XP1200EH. A great generator and have also considered a NG hookup to make it tri-fuel. Be sure to do you load calculations carefully as the amount of running current will drop significantly with natural gas through a LP gas system. It would be awful to buy the Duromax , new regulator and adapter kit to end up short and not enough power for a full house backup. Doing the math and load calculations is extremely important.
Never cut the frame . If you have to cut the frame then its a shitty kit . Also you should install that regulator in the front of the generator . Nothing hanging out , you dont lose your clearance on the sides .
Dual fuel is the only way, I got one just like this. but I NEVER use gasoline, only propane. that way I can take it to my hunting grounds.
The problem is that the output is reduced when using propane.
@@flick22601 And running a full load SUCKs up the propane!!!!
@@flick22601 10-15% loss maybe, far from useless just less efficient... propane is readily available or you can change the fuel jets and hook it up to your natural gas and never run out of fuel(kinda)
If you haven’t already run the generator on propane or anything else the manual says to run gasoline for several hours to break it in. My 2 cents
I have a Champion 9500/7500 Dual Fuel generator that I want to “hide”. This video is giving me ideas on how to do it. Thanks!
This dude is a pro, very detailed installation. Great video
VERY pro! Have rarely seen work this thorough!
Wow bad sound management. Exhaust pipe needs further muffling. There also needs to have sound deadening where the fan exhaust hot air along with fresh air intake. All that money for 11db is horrible. It does look pretty. Sigh
All that and you can't do 3rd grade math 🙄
Thanks for the video. Great attention to detail and showed all the angles and parts that DIY'ers like me will need when implementing this myself. Very helpful.
Excellent job. Thank you for sharing!
I loved the whole idea of trying to suppress the sound, but it seem to only bring it down a few decibels, im not sure if it was all worth the time and money. Thank you for sharing , this help me decide to go with the genetic model .
you cant screw the foam on, sound transfer point. use adhesive.
Decibels are measured logarithmically so 12 Decibels is pretty substantial, but I bet you could get a better decrease with some fine tuning.
Generic can cost $10-15K , this can run from $1500-$2500. Watch more videos, there many ways to do this
At least it's protected from the elements.
Thanks for taking the time to post this video. Nice build. I've made a pretty nice system as well. My concern is operating temperature. My question to you is, have you monitored the operating temperature of your system while it is under load? What is that temperature and are you comfortable with it?
A lot of work and money for few decibels.
Decibels are logarithmic...80db is twice as loud as 70db, for example.
www.iacacoustics.com/blog-full/comparative-examples-of-noise-levels.html
You don't like to work!
@@tsb2752 You missed the point. Laboring and spending money with little to no benefit, is neither efficient or productive. Not a wise use time and money.
@@chuckhanshaw1638
Not our worry then is it.
@@tsb2752 You seem to be taking it personal. Is it your clip.
Excellent job and great video...very helpful...thank you...
Nice work. Thank you for sharing this!
Had to sub
Awesome, thank you!
Seems like alot of work and money for 10 dbs.
Great video - I just did a similar install only in a home built 4x8 shed. In Houston here too and I agree with your cost assessment. 3 grand and a few minutes to plug in the interlock cable when you need it (once every few years) vs $25k is a no brainer for me! Well done!
THIS INSTALLER IS SO PRECISE AND TALENTED, BUT THINK THE HOME OWNER SHOULD HAVE JUST PURCHASED A KOHLER GENERATOR.
😊😊😊
KOHLER IS 69db.
Your craftsmanship and attention to detail are awesome. Hope you made some bad ass money on this.
The reflective layers from inside the box will cause the generator to overheat, it's gonna be like an oven. You need to remove or cover them to avoid the radiated heat from the generator to be reflected back to it, not the other way around. Also, rockwool would be more than twice as efficient to achieve what you wanted to achieve. Styrofoam transmits sound almost like wood, it doesn't dampen it.
Thank you for the new ideas and different options.Where do you get the tube and for the exhaust and what size is it?
I think I linked in the description. Thanks!!
Cool build! My key takeaways from this were use of the clamp to adapt the exhaust pipe to the flexible hose, use of the exhaust sealer compound on the joints, wrapping the exhaust with the tape, using the fireblock as sealer, and the spring to center the exhaust pipe in the b vent.
Also the commenter who suggested adding a heat sensor as a kill switch had a very good idea