Thanks. Very nicely done video, straightforward and clearly explained. For removing burrs and squaring up the rails, I use a metal cutoff wheel put in my tablesaw, rubbing the edge of the bar against the side of the cutoff wheel. The wheel being square to the table saw top gives the results I need. Cutoff wheels aren't really made to grind on their sides, but it's worked for me for a long time. Light pressure so the wheel doesn't deflect, a tight throat plate on the saw, and safety glasses are in order. Gluing a backing plate on the cutoff wheel would be a good addition for added strength and security.
Thanks for the instructions. I watched this and I followed your instructions kept putting the chain on the bar as you did to determine the fit .The saw cuts were running bad now it is like a new bar. Cuts perfect, I didn`t have an anvil so I made a hamming surface with a piece of scrap 20" long 6" H beam I got from a friend.A new 16 " bar was priced at $68 + tax!
Thanks for posting. I found it very interesting. I've been filing the groove on my bar and taking off any burrs. Now I'll check for spread in the groove and correct if necessary.
G'Day Bruce, thanks so much for sharing your experience and know-how, you're a legend. Before I go out and have a bash at it myself, wondering if you could describe what you'd do when hammering a bar if you hammered it too much and created a pinch point. You said you'd open it up but not sure how you'd go about it. Would you just twist some flat tool in the groove to kind of lever it open? Thanks again for the video
Hi Matt, thx for your feedback. I quite often get pinch points in bars I hammer and it’s easily fixed. It’s surprising how much bars vary in the stiffness of their steel. What I do: I put the chain in the bar groove and grip the bar in my metal vice (like at the start of the video). Pushing the chain back and forth shows you where the drive link is catching in a tight spot. I pull the chain out of the groove and lightly hammer a suitable tool into the groove where it’s tight, maybe moving the tool along to open a longer section. Then test the groove with the chain. The tool needs a fine taper to open the groove gently. I sometimes use a large, strong screwdriver (I have old ones where the steel shaft goes right to the top of the handle so it can be hit without breaking the handle). At home I have a large cold chisel that’s been forged thin and ground to a fine taper with a blunt end. It usually only takes a few taps, sometimes just pulling the tool along in the groove will ease the pinch. Good luck with fixing your bars, Bruce.
@@BruceTeakle G'day Bruce, sorry for the very late response - just wanted to say that I really appreciate the time and thought you put into your response. Very nice thing of you to have done for a total stranger, thanks for that!
Hello Ryan, yes, bars are 2-sided and should be put on both ways (writing upside-down as well as right way up). That way both sides can be worn together. If you use a chainsaw regularly (e.g. cutting your own firewood) you should have 3 chains that you rotate and wear out together. Every time you change chains you should flip the bar and use the other side. When all 3 chains are worn out, you get a new sprocket and 3 new chains.
There were some anti kickback bars around with a " banana shaped" nose ( not symmetrical) that shouldn't be flipped over but thats rather obvious- I don't mean to insult anyones intelligence, just a comment. Happy cutting!
Thanks Andy! I'm chuffed to have a comment from you, seeing as I've learnt so much from your videos. Just yesterday a friend and I were wondering whether hammering bars is something you do?
This video shows an excellent old machine made to do all these things and more: ua-cam.com/video/l78MK2cCMTc/v-deo.html Clearly hammering bars was once common enough for a manufacturer to produce a machine to hammer and grind worn bars in small workshops.
I use a linisher with a disc attached at ninety degrees to the belt that has a rest, it works perfectly for dressing, much easier than trying to keep the bar at 90 degrees to a belt. similar to this one: i.imgur.com/qfNDrOc.jpg
Thanks. Very nicely done video, straightforward and clearly explained. For removing burrs and squaring up the rails, I use a metal cutoff wheel put in my tablesaw, rubbing the edge of the bar against the side of the cutoff wheel. The wheel being square to the table saw top gives the results I need. Cutoff wheels aren't really made to grind on their sides, but it's worked for me for a long time. Light pressure so the wheel doesn't deflect, a tight throat plate on the saw, and safety glasses are in order. Gluing a backing plate on the cutoff wheel would be a good addition for added strength and security.
Thanks for the instructions. I watched this and I followed your instructions kept putting the chain on the bar as you did to determine the fit .The saw cuts were running bad now it is like a new bar. Cuts perfect, I didn`t have an anvil so I made a hamming surface with a piece of scrap 20" long 6" H beam I got from a friend.A new 16 " bar was priced at $68 + tax!
Thanks Bruce, I found your presentation very informative and helpful. Cheers from Oregon!
Thanks for posting. I found it very interesting. I've been filing the groove on my bar and taking off any burrs. Now I'll check for spread in the groove and correct if necessary.
Thank you very much Bruce, you just save me a bar!
And I'm better on the long way as well!
Alex from Québec, Canada
G'Day Bruce, thanks so much for sharing your experience and know-how, you're a legend. Before I go out and have a bash at it myself, wondering if you could describe what you'd do when hammering a bar if you hammered it too much and created a pinch point. You said you'd open it up but not sure how you'd go about it. Would you just twist some flat tool in the groove to kind of lever it open? Thanks again for the video
Hi Matt, thx for your feedback.
I quite often get pinch points in bars I hammer and it’s easily fixed. It’s surprising how much bars vary in the stiffness of their steel.
What I do:
I put the chain in the bar groove and grip the bar in my metal vice (like at the start of the video). Pushing the chain back and forth shows you where the drive link is catching in a tight spot. I pull the chain out of the groove and lightly hammer a suitable tool into the groove where it’s tight, maybe moving the tool along to open a longer section. Then test the groove with the chain.
The tool needs a fine taper to open the groove gently. I sometimes use a large, strong screwdriver (I have old ones where the steel shaft goes right to the top of the handle so it can be hit without breaking the handle). At home I have a large cold chisel that’s been forged thin and ground to a fine taper with a blunt end. It usually only takes a few taps, sometimes just pulling the tool along in the groove will ease the pinch.
Good luck with fixing your bars, Bruce.
@@BruceTeakle G'day Bruce, sorry for the very late response - just wanted to say that I really appreciate the time and thought you put into your response. Very nice thing of you to have done for a total stranger, thanks for that!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. This information will be put to use
hi Bruce, can a bar be put on upside down ?? thanks. Looking forward for your reply.
Hello Ryan, yes, bars are 2-sided and should be put on both ways (writing upside-down as well as right way up). That way both sides can be worn together. If you use a chainsaw regularly (e.g. cutting your own firewood) you should have 3 chains that you rotate and wear out together. Every time you change chains you should flip the bar and use the other side. When all 3 chains are worn out, you get a new sprocket and 3 new chains.
Hi Bruce, thanks for the quick and clear response. Cheers
There were some anti kickback bars around with a " banana shaped" nose ( not symmetrical) that shouldn't be flipped over but thats rather obvious- I don't mean to insult anyones intelligence, just a comment. Happy cutting!
Nice one, action and comment, cheers
Thanks Andy! I'm chuffed to have a comment from you, seeing as I've learnt so much from your videos. Just yesterday a friend and I were wondering whether hammering bars is something you do?
@@BruceTeakle Bruce, oh yes to get a bit more from a worn bar, as long as the groove is still deep enough, cheers
This video shows an excellent old machine made to do all these things and more: ua-cam.com/video/l78MK2cCMTc/v-deo.html
Clearly hammering bars was once common enough for a manufacturer to produce a machine to hammer and grind worn bars in small workshops.
I use a linisher with a disc attached at ninety degrees to the belt that has a rest, it works perfectly for dressing, much easier than trying to keep the bar at 90 degrees to a belt. similar to this one: i.imgur.com/qfNDrOc.jpg
Thanks David, I'm sure that's a better method than trying to get 90 deg by eye.
Bruce!!! I'm looking for you on line and I found this!!! Please, please, have a look on your Facebook, I sent you a message through Messanger!!! :)