Glad to help! This has been one I've been wanting to make for quite some time. I have a dimmer one planned as well. This one was over 30 minutes long before cutting it down. I could see the dimmer getting longer, I might have to do a directors cut or 2 part video maybe.
Hi. In Canada the Globe outdoor plug is now using the BEKEN BK7231. You blink and a new SoC is being used. Thanks for all the work you do and putting out these videos to help us out.
I'm sure you've just forgotten about the SONOFF TX series. They include either 1, 2, or 3 button switches in a single gang package. One downside is that they are not in the standard Decora form-factor, so you can't incorporate them into a multi-gang box with other switches, just like the Zemismart. They are also have a little bigger case on the back than most others and I had a hard time fitting them inside the switch box on the wall, especially the metal boxes in my 50+ year-old house.
Actually had them in the video but got cut. It was just a short clip though about the glass style that can't seem to stay in the wall at times and don't fit with other switches.
@@digiblurDIY I don't like them for those same reasons and will be changing out the 2 that I currently have installed at some point. I just brought them up because you asked about other switches with 3 relays in a single gang package.
Yeah, I just watched that part of the video again and saw that you specifically said Decora. So in the words of the famous Emily Litella, "Never mind."
I’m pretty happy with this one: Sonoff TX T2 Smart Light Switch... www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1SP87R It’s not a Decora-style, but it does fit in a single-gang box. Tight fit with all the wires, but I managed.
Another great use for the Shelly is for some wiring in older houses where the mains go to a ceiling fixture first and the wall switch is just a single run of Romex (no neutral wire.) Wire the Shelly up in the light fixture box and you get a smart switch without having to run electrical wire.
Travis, Thanks for the video. Just used this video to guide me in opening up some Treatlife switches today. Also, I like the National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation reference. Very timely/relevant considering the release date of this video. 🎄 💡😎
Great comparison, Travis! One of the switches I’d like to see you add to your list is Feit Electric’s “Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer”. I got a 3-pack of these from CostCo (online) for about US$25. Supposedly these can be used as 3-way dimmers. I haven’t been able to get Tuya Convert to work on these yet - might need to get a hot air rework station to get access to the back of the Tuya module (where GPIO0 is hiding).
The listening to switches is important for switches that are just on and off (no dimming) as you don't want a noisy relay in the bedroom... Also, with dimmable controls, it is important to check minimum load.
I noticed you mentioned the TreatLife SS01 and you opened it, I have used Tuya-Convert on all my SS01. it would have been cool to say if each switch had the ability to be Tuya-Convert-ed. enjoyed the Vid.
It's a mixed bag on treatlife and I didn't want to burn in Tuya convert statuses. Video was more about the esp8266 and going manual as Tuya-convert is becoming a thing of the past again..quickly.
Wonderful! Great overview Travis! I am trying to find & buy all the older/flashable stock that I can, wish some of these companies would put out a "local only/diy" version specifically for tasmota/esphome instead of jumping through all the hoops! It is like, Yes, we do want your product, & we would buy a lot of it, if we have control of it!
i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
I just got the Evalogic a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it to flash with tuya convert. I may give it another try soon. I did try to find the pin headers and went the opposite direction by taking the back plate off. Your way of getting to the ESP8266 is much better. When I got to the point where I had to desolder to get further I thought better of it. I may try the tuya convert again and see if I can get a better idea of why it didn't take.
Great switch especially for three way configs. The up and down config was icing on the cake for special projects. Like up double press does one thing and down double press does another. So many ideas. Don't take it apart too far with the screws on the terminals loose. They fall out and then it's a pain to put back. Just take your time with it. It's never a bad idea to video or take pics of something you take apart to see how it was before you touched it.
Have you looked at the Top Greener brand. They seem to be very well constructed and supposedly can be flashed over the air. I have bought some of them but haven't tried flashing them yet. They work with Smart life, Alexa and Google. They also have a 3-way dimmer with companion switch that can be adjusted manually from either switch.
I have their scene controller and 15a plug. Very nice designs. I didn't like their dimmer. Kind of ugly with the arrows. The switch isn't too bad except that wifi icon. www.digiblur.com/2020/02/wifi-scene-controller-with-mqtt.html
I did check out the switch. Beefy indeed but huge fail. I don't get why they did the TuyaMCU setup for a simple switch. Definitely won't be on my list of recommendations. Even their power monitoring plugs didn't use a TuyaMCU mess. Nice to know about the dimmer faceplates.
Definitely not. It's just a simple switch. The ESP8266 could handle it all. Typically you'll only see dimmers with this due to a bunch of status LEDs, touch panel, etc so they add a secondary TuyaMCU to do all that. Problem with that configuration is you have zero control over what the device does short of making your own TuyaMCU firmware. I can kind of understand this for dimmers in some cases, but definitely not this switch. So now you can not do any long press, short press, multipress or decoupling of the relay. Severely limits this switch. This is why I love and use those Martin Jerry dimmers so much, no TuyaMCU in those dimmers. Pretty awesome what you can do with three buttons, status lights, and dimming all under your control.
How is there a single thumbs down? People are weird... Thank you very much Travis! Truly appreciate the depth of your reviews. Otherwise I'd have to buy and test all of these myself 😄
hei digibluDIY, I successfully flashed the rest of my shelly dimmers with the recently released Tasmota 9.2. Tx for the reminder previously for that extra firmware that neede to be uploaded.
@@digiblurDIY Thanks, I have the MJ 2 Way Dimmers in my house and prefer those, I did not realize that the MJ 3 Way could be flashed. tinyurl.com/yxfvpac7
Yep, actually talked about them in my latest ESP8266 video, they switched back to TYWE3S modules. They are TuyaMCU based so no template needed, just pick TuyaMCU in the module 54 configure screen and then set it up like a TuyaMCU dimmer.
I just built a house and I went with Shelly.. over 50 of them controlling every single bulb. The only reason I wanted to keep the normal switches is aestetics.
Great comparison. What would you say is the easiest switch to use for adding sensors next to the switch (e.g., accesible GPIOs for motion, luminosity or something like that)? I'm thinking easy to open, etc.
Hmm.. I would say gosund but they changed the hardware. Etekcity still has a few GPIO pins open with header holes like I did with the motion switch. There is always soldering to the Tuya module on the treatlife ones. Lots of pins open.
It is beginning to look like we need a spreadsheet with all the devices that have Tasmota installed and work with both ESPhome and HA. Does one currently exist?
Enjoy all your postings. Can you do a video on how to re-use old traditional security system ( from 90s) magnetic door/motion sensors as input to Tasmotarized devices?
@@digiblurDIY I can send you a picture, but I was aiming to use the PIR sensor, magnetic door sensor wiring without the main board. I was able to identity the Alarm wire, and two of the door sensors that I can use a NodeMCU to control them. I suspect many has a 20 year old security system not in use, but sensor wirings are still good. What is your email , I can send you pictures , and what I plan to do with my project. It will be Tasmotarized NodeMCU ...
FWIW, it's easier to say there's no problem with hundreds of devices connected when you're running a proper router (like your Ubiquity model.) I suspect some crappy ISP-provided routers may not be so amenable to that device count.
Hey Travis how is it going. You did a video on flashing a Linkind Smart WiFi Light Switch with Tasmota and I have spent hours looking for it that video where I selected the link in the description to buy from Amazon. I just want to make sure I am doing the pins right and what a pain it is to find the right pin datasheet. lol maybe you would be so kind and to throw me the link to the video. It was specify on the Linkind and this model I thought you also talked about Wyze smart out door plug in the same video. But anyway. I am struggling to find all the pins. I found the RX and TX but there are 2 different sets of these. one set says RX1 and TX1 which are close the the chip and the other are fare away from the chip but just say RX and TX and ohm them out I can't find the RX and TX pinout on the chip itself if that makes sense. Also the GPIO pin I think I found it but I do not want to mess this up and just was hoping you could say hey this is what you need. I bought these from Amazon from the video I was watch of yours. this is the chip I have ESP32-U4WD, 242020, HPPA1740, UE00PSFY70 this I believe is a ver. 2.0 those are all the numbers on that chip. Then I have a same exact style just a different version ver. 1.0 with these number letters on the chip. CC8000. Thank I appreciate the help. I guess if you know what Tasmota version I should flash these with that would be super helpful from what I read looks like I should use the Tasmota Solo1 Firmware
Do you have the model with the ESP32? The new Gen 2 model can not be flashed. I didn't make a video on it but I do have a guide. I'll see about finishing the transfer of it tonight to the new digiblur.com website.
@@digiblurDIY I have 2 of the version 1.0 so this would be awesome. I will send the version 2.0 back that's lame on that one. lol Thank you Travis can't wait
@@digiblurDIY to elaborate. the chip is a esp32 but not the typical esp32 like I usually see. looks like the esp32 black chip CC8000 is on top of another chip or board then soldered to the main pcb as far as I know these are the Version 1.0. if that helps anything else I can give you to help? Most of the esp32 I see you with on these switches are the silver looking one's and this is not that style it's a black chip. wish I could send you a pic on here
@@digiblurDIY Hey Travis were you able to get that guide uploaded. I see the Linkind but when I select it takes me to the pre-flashed Martin Jerry switch's which is different. I do not see it on the perks page either. Thanks man I hate bothering people I do see your email I could send you an email with the chipset I have.
I haven't had time to convert it...the older one is still there though. 1b8d781e8c5fc5437e2f6f4d44a644d6.blogspot.com/p/linkind-esp32-smart-switch-how-to-flash.html
Let me share my GE Zwave nightmare, I started almost 3 years with 9 Zwave switches and Smartthings Hub I'm now at 4. Over the past year it seems every time turn a circuit breaker back on after installing a wifi switch, I have a Zwave switch clicking, aka dead! YMMV, Proceed with caution.
Hey Travis, I need a little help. I ordered one of those switches that has the 3 buttons (in a one gang box. lol) . Mine was a newer revision that had the ESP8266 that is not flashable. I ordered a bunch of ESP12 modules. Installed the module and flashed it with Tasmota. I found the template on Tasmota's website for the switch. I can toggle all three relays from the GUI and buttons however the LEDs are not "linked" to the button/relay. I'm not sure how to get the LED to turn on/off with the button press. Using latest full Tasmota as of 1/14/22. Do I need to enter commands into the console? Thanks brother.
There's no template for that on Tasmota's website. I would suggest the New Device Procedure and find all your buttons, LEDs, etc instead of some shady copy and paste website github.com/digiblur/Tasmota/wiki/New-Device-Procedures
@@digiblurDIY I performed the New Device Procedure and came up with the same result. :( If I press any of the three buttons, it will toggle the middle LED (LED_i 2). To me, it seems all the switches are assigned to the middle LED.
The ones that have the led diffuser and white case with the weird ground... Menards sold as a w1-01 / sw1001 switch from vivitar... I had a ceiling fan hooked up to it, but never really turned the fan off and the switch lasted from april to November.... Any suggestions for a budget friendly switch to control a fan? I don't really need speed control because i don't change the speed.
I just got a Martin Jerry three way switch to replace a Meross (Two of my Meross just stopped connecting to WIFI, they manually work but no HA integration). The question is do I still need the jig in order to "tasmotize" the MJ switch? If that's the case can I still get one from you?, please let me know.
What is your take on the sonoff tx range of switches? In my country we only have the 1 gang type switches in the walls and the best is to have the US version of TX swicthes with the 1/2/3 switches on 1 plate
Hi, can you do a full video for "insignia smart switchs". The company stop the cloud service and now all home owners include me are out of service. Many of us are looking for local network to Control. No luck. Thank you.
What are the options for a rocker style wifi switch? similar to the eva logik you showed? My wife just wants standard decora switches and I can't always fit a mini or shelly in a single box.
@@digiblurDIY Unfortunately the Eva Logik switching currently shipping from Amazon use a WB3S Tuya chip rather than the TYWE3S we all know, love, and need. Not aware of this chip being freed from its Tuya Cloud shackles yet.
@@digiblurDIY Unfortunately for this particular switch that still might not be enough. Instead of lying flat in relation to the main board like a typical ESP8266 module, the WB3S module attaches in a perpendicular manner, tucked between the neutral and 3-way traveler screw terminals. It extends 15mm from the main board, which appears to be all the available space before you hit the back of the shell. Unfortunately the ESP12S modules I've been able to find for the 'brain transplant' are at least 24mm. The amount of work it would take to completely relocate the module just isn't worth the hassle. I say 'might' in hopes that someone can prove me wrong, as I much prefer this switch's 2-button design to the single-button models like the MJ-S01.
Nice comparison.
As I've said many times, you've saved me tons of time by dissecting these devices. Thanks brother!
Glad to help! This has been one I've been wanting to make for quite some time. I have a dimmer one planned as well. This one was over 30 minutes long before cutting it down. I could see the dimmer getting longer, I might have to do a directors cut or 2 part video maybe.
@@digiblurDIY I think that is a good idea.
Hi. In Canada the Globe outdoor plug is now using the BEKEN BK7231. You blink and a new SoC is being used. Thanks for all the work you do and putting out these videos to help us out.
Thanks for that sound sampler at the end!
You bet! Gives me an excuse for the last pic.
I'm sure you've just forgotten about the SONOFF TX series. They include either 1, 2, or 3 button switches in a single gang package. One downside is that they are not in the standard Decora form-factor, so you can't incorporate them into a multi-gang box with other switches, just like the Zemismart. They are also have a little bigger case on the back than most others and I had a hard time fitting them inside the switch box on the wall, especially the metal boxes in my 50+ year-old house.
Actually had them in the video but got cut. It was just a short clip though about the glass style that can't seem to stay in the wall at times and don't fit with other switches.
@@digiblurDIY I don't like them for those same reasons and will be changing out the 2 that I currently have installed at some point. I just brought them up because you asked about other switches with 3 relays in a single gang package.
Fully understand. Looking for standard 2 and 3 button Decora ones.
Yeah, I just watched that part of the video again and saw that you specifically said Decora. So in the words of the famous Emily Litella, "Never mind."
All good. Appreciate it! I don't expect everyone to watch 100% of them. I know I don't one various ones.
Thanks Travis! Was looking for a 3-relay, 1-gang Tamota-able switch. The LED faceplate one looks cool too.
3 Button 1 Gang - amzn.to/3r9hY4S
I’m pretty happy with this one: Sonoff TX T2 Smart Light Switch... www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1SP87R
It’s not a Decora-style, but it does fit in a single-gang box. Tight fit with all the wires, but I managed.
Another great use for the Shelly is for some wiring in older houses where the mains go to a ceiling fixture first and the wall switch is just a single run of Romex (no neutral wire.) Wire the Shelly up in the light fixture box and you get a smart switch without having to run electrical wire.
Yep perfect for that as the Shelly is rated for mains wiring.
Travis, Thanks for the video. Just used this video to guide me in opening up some Treatlife switches today. Also, I like the National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation reference. Very timely/relevant considering the release date of this video. 🎄 💡😎
The new Tuya-convert process. Open the puppy up and be happy it is still ESP82xx.
Great comparison, Travis! One of the switches I’d like to see you add to your list is Feit Electric’s “Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer”. I got a 3-pack of these from CostCo (online) for about US$25. Supposedly these can be used as 3-way dimmers. I haven’t been able to get Tuya Convert to work on these yet - might need to get a hot air rework station to get access to the back of the Tuya module (where GPIO0 is hiding).
These ? www.amazon.com/Feit-Electric-DIM-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07SXDFH38
Yep, that’s it! But much cheaper at CostCo. I’d be happy to send one of mine your way if you wanna hack on it.
Shoot me an email. Channel name at Gmail domain.
@@digiblurDIY email sent last night ~20:33 (Pacific time)
Got it. I'll hit you back up this evening during wind down time from the vacation day.
If you use Zigbee then using some mains powered devices is almost a must. As they act as repeaters.
These guys were telling me about that - ua-cam.com/video/cWSIFgFQMw0/v-deo.html
The listening to switches is important for switches that are just on and off (no dimming) as you don't want a noisy relay in the bedroom...
Also, with dimmable controls, it is important to check minimum load.
I have to say most of the relays sound the same. No SSR devices.
Thank you Travis. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family. 👍🎄
I noticed you mentioned the TreatLife SS01 and you opened it, I have used Tuya-Convert on all my SS01. it would have been cool to say if each switch had the ability to be Tuya-Convert-ed. enjoyed the Vid.
It's a mixed bag on treatlife and I didn't want to burn in Tuya convert statuses. Video was more about the esp8266 and going manual as Tuya-convert is becoming a thing of the past again..quickly.
Wonderful! Great overview Travis! I am trying to find & buy all the older/flashable stock that I can, wish some of these companies would put out a "local only/diy" version specifically for tasmota/esphome instead of jumping through all the hoops! It is like, Yes, we do want your product, & we would buy a lot of it, if we have control of it!
ahmen to that... it does my head in.
“Do the magic if you have to...” hahaha. Love it.
i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
I just got the Evalogic a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it to flash with tuya convert. I may give it another try soon. I did try to find the pin headers and went the opposite direction by taking the back plate off.
Your way of getting to the ESP8266 is much better. When I got to the point where I had to desolder to get further I thought better of it. I may try the tuya convert again and see if I can get a better idea of why it didn't take.
Great switch especially for three way configs. The up and down config was icing on the cake for special projects. Like up double press does one thing and down double press does another. So many ideas.
Don't take it apart too far with the screws on the terminals loose. They fall out and then it's a pain to put back. Just take your time with it. It's never a bad idea to video or take pics of something you take apart to see how it was before you touched it.
Have you looked at the Top Greener brand. They seem to be very well constructed and supposedly can be flashed over the air. I have bought some of them but haven't tried flashing them yet. They work with Smart life, Alexa and Google. They also have a 3-way dimmer with companion switch that can be adjusted manually from either switch.
I have their scene controller and 15a plug. Very nice designs. I didn't like their dimmer. Kind of ugly with the arrows. The switch isn't too bad except that wifi icon. www.digiblur.com/2020/02/wifi-scene-controller-with-mqtt.html
@@digiblurDIY I didn't like the arrows either so I called them and they sent me regular switch rockers. They just pop off and can be replaced.
I did check out the switch. Beefy indeed but huge fail. I don't get why they did the TuyaMCU setup for a simple switch. Definitely won't be on my list of recommendations. Even their power monitoring plugs didn't use a TuyaMCU mess.
Nice to know about the dimmer faceplates.
@@digiblurDIY Not sure what you mean. Is the Tuya MCU not needed? Does that make it impossible to use?
Definitely not. It's just a simple switch. The ESP8266 could handle it all. Typically you'll only see dimmers with this due to a bunch of status LEDs, touch panel, etc so they add a secondary TuyaMCU to do all that. Problem with that configuration is you have zero control over what the device does short of making your own TuyaMCU firmware. I can kind of understand this for dimmers in some cases, but definitely not this switch. So now you can not do any long press, short press, multipress or decoupling of the relay. Severely limits this switch.
This is why I love and use those Martin Jerry dimmers so much, no TuyaMCU in those dimmers. Pretty awesome what you can do with three buttons, status lights, and dimming all under your control.
How is there a single thumbs down? People are weird... Thank you very much Travis! Truly appreciate the depth of your reviews. Otherwise I'd have to buy and test all of these myself 😄
Always someone that doesn't like you on the internet 😎I appreciate it as does UA-cam as it loves all types of interactions from what I hear.
@@digiblurDIY love it... No publicity is bad publicity.
hei digibluDIY, I successfully flashed the rest of my shelly dimmers with the recently released Tasmota 9.2. Tx for the reminder previously for that extra firmware that neede to be uploaded.
Have a great Christmas Travis...
You too!
Travis, as always, very informative. Is there a 3-Way dimmer switch that can be flashed with Tasmota that you would recommend? Thanks.
These are 3 way and several options, rotary, button, and touch. They will have to be flashed manually though. amzn.to/35sWarY
@@digiblurDIY Thanks, I have the MJ 2 Way Dimmers in my house and prefer those, I did not realize that the MJ 3 Way could be flashed. tinyurl.com/yxfvpac7
Yep, actually talked about them in my latest ESP8266 video, they switched back to TYWE3S modules. They are TuyaMCU based so no template needed, just pick TuyaMCU in the module 54 configure screen and then set it up like a TuyaMCU dimmer.
I just built a house and I went with Shelly.. over 50 of them controlling every single bulb. The only reason I wanted to keep the normal switches is aestetics.
Definitely some great devices without a doubt, just a lot of jumpers for my house with 12 AWG solid in every box. Makes it tough to make it all fit.
Great comparison. What would you say is the easiest switch to use for adding sensors next to the switch (e.g., accesible GPIOs for motion, luminosity or something like that)? I'm thinking easy to open, etc.
Hmm.. I would say gosund but they changed the hardware. Etekcity still has a few GPIO pins open with header holes like I did with the motion switch. There is always soldering to the Tuya module on the treatlife ones. Lots of pins open.
Any switch brand that you could still recommend of all of these that would integrate nicely with home assistant?
For the sure thing with the ESP chip in tow, I'd roll with the MJ version - amzn.to/3Hu0TLb
thank you brother
To make a great effort to share the information with us.
For your information, I benefited from you a lot
It's my pleasure
It is beginning to look like we need a spreadsheet with all the devices that have Tasmota installed and work with both ESPhome and HA. Does one currently exist?
Enjoy all your postings. Can you do a video on how to re-use old traditional security system ( from 90s) magnetic door/motion sensors as input to Tasmotarized devices?
Do you still have the main board in play? Or is it really old?
@@digiblurDIY I can send you a picture, but I was aiming to use the PIR sensor, magnetic door sensor wiring without the main board. I was able to identity the Alarm wire, and two of the door sensors that I can use a NodeMCU to control them. I suspect many has a 20 year old security system not in use, but sensor wirings are still good. What is your email , I can send you pictures , and what I plan to do with my project. It will be Tasmotarized NodeMCU ...
I have the TreatLife SS02 and the Gosund switches. Too much light leakage around the rocker in the latter.
FWIW, it's easier to say there's no problem with hundreds of devices connected when you're running a proper router (like your Ubiquity model.) I suspect some crappy ISP-provided routers may not be so amenable to that device count.
Been a long time since the WRT54G was a thing. Super easy to swap in a simple single AP for under $100 and everything is happier, phones, etc.
and side note, I didn't show my router at all here, only the access points.
I like the idea of the Martin Jerry, but they sound pretty squishy and plastic.
Definitely quieter and less travel.
Hey Travis how is it going. You did a video on flashing a Linkind Smart WiFi Light Switch with Tasmota and I have spent hours looking for it that video where I selected the link in the description to buy from Amazon. I just want to make sure I am doing the pins right and what a pain it is to find the right pin datasheet. lol maybe you would be so kind and to throw me the link to the video. It was specify on the Linkind and this model I thought you also talked about Wyze smart out door plug in the same video. But anyway. I am struggling to find all the pins. I found the RX and TX but there are 2 different sets of these. one set says RX1 and TX1 which are close the the chip and the other are fare away from the chip but just say RX and TX and ohm them out I can't find the RX and TX pinout on the chip itself if that makes sense. Also the GPIO pin I think I found it but I do not want to mess this up and just was hoping you could say hey this is what you need. I bought these from Amazon from the video I was watch of yours. this is the chip I have ESP32-U4WD, 242020, HPPA1740, UE00PSFY70 this I believe is a ver. 2.0 those are all the numbers on that chip. Then I have a same exact style just a different version ver. 1.0 with these number letters on the chip. CC8000. Thank I appreciate the help. I guess if you know what Tasmota version I should flash these with that would be super helpful from what I read looks like I should use the Tasmota Solo1 Firmware
Do you have the model with the ESP32? The new Gen 2 model can not be flashed. I didn't make a video on it but I do have a guide. I'll see about finishing the transfer of it tonight to the new digiblur.com website.
@@digiblurDIY I have 2 of the version 1.0 so this would be awesome. I will send the version 2.0 back that's lame on that one. lol Thank you Travis can't wait
@@digiblurDIY to elaborate. the chip is a esp32 but not the typical esp32 like I usually see. looks like the esp32 black chip CC8000 is on top of another chip or board then soldered to the main pcb as far as I know these are the Version 1.0. if that helps anything else I can give you to help? Most of the esp32 I see you with on these switches are the silver looking one's and this is not that style it's a black chip. wish I could send you a pic on here
@@digiblurDIY Hey Travis were you able to get that guide uploaded. I see the Linkind but when I select it takes me to the pre-flashed Martin Jerry switch's which is different. I do not see it on the perks page either. Thanks man I hate bothering people I do see your email I could send you an email with the chipset I have.
I haven't had time to convert it...the older one is still there though. 1b8d781e8c5fc5437e2f6f4d44a644d6.blogspot.com/p/linkind-esp32-smart-switch-how-to-flash.html
Thanks keep up the good work
Let me share my GE Zwave nightmare, I started almost 3 years with 9 Zwave switches and Smartthings Hub I'm now at 4. Over the past year it seems every time turn a circuit breaker back on after installing a wifi switch, I have a Zwave switch clicking, aka dead! YMMV, Proceed with caution.
I have heard that story all too many times unfortunately with those.
Hey Travis, I need a little help. I ordered one of those switches that has the 3 buttons (in a one gang box. lol) . Mine was a newer revision that had the ESP8266 that is not flashable. I ordered a bunch of ESP12 modules. Installed the module and flashed it with Tasmota. I found the template on Tasmota's website for the switch. I can toggle all three relays from the GUI and buttons however the LEDs are not "linked" to the button/relay. I'm not sure how to get the LED to turn on/off with the button press. Using latest full Tasmota as of 1/14/22. Do I need to enter commands into the console? Thanks brother.
There's no template for that on Tasmota's website. I would suggest the New Device Procedure and find all your buttons, LEDs, etc instead of some shady copy and paste website github.com/digiblur/Tasmota/wiki/New-Device-Procedures
@@digiblurDIY I performed the New Device Procedure and came up with the same result. :( If I press any of the three buttons, it will toggle the middle LED (LED_i 2). To me, it seems all the switches are assigned to the middle LED.
@@digiblurDIY
Top LED GPIO0 Led_i 1
WiFi LED GPIO2 Led_i 4
Bottom SW GPIO3 Button 3
relay GPIO4 Relay 3
Middle SW GPIO5 Button 2
Top SW GPIO12 Button 1
relay GPIO13 Relay 1
middle LED GPIO14 Led_i 2
relay GPIO15 Relay 2
bottom LED GPIO16 Led_i 3
Are you able to find all your leds? You probably need rules and the ledpower commands to make the leds work.
@@digiblurDIY That is what I don't know how/what to do.
Hey Travis, Does the Martin Jerry Switches still use the ESP?
Yep. Wouldn't have shown them if they didn't.
“Is that gonna clog my network? No..”
Also his network: Unifi
An UniFi AP or two is pretty cheap, even cheaper than those stupid looking 20 antenna consumer routers.
The ones that have the led diffuser and white case with the weird ground... Menards sold as a w1-01 / sw1001 switch from vivitar... I had a ceiling fan hooked up to it, but never really turned the fan off and the switch lasted from april to November.... Any suggestions for a budget friendly switch to control a fan? I don't really need speed control because i don't change the speed.
Any of the switches I listed will work a ceiling fan without issue.
I just got a Martin Jerry three way switch to replace a Meross (Two of my Meross just stopped connecting to WIFI, they manually work but no HA integration). The question is do I still need the jig in order to "tasmotize" the MJ switch? If that's the case can I still get one from you?, please let me know.
If it is still ESP based. Did you check?
@@digiblurDIY Yes, it is. I just opened it: tywe3s
What is your take on the sonoff tx range of switches? In my country we only have the 1 gang type switches in the walls and the best is to have the US version of TX swicthes with the 1/2/3 switches on 1 plate
Nothing functionally wrong with them if used in a one gang setup.
Hi, can you do a full video for "insignia smart switchs". The company stop the cloud service and now all home owners include me are out of service. Many of us are looking for local network to Control. No luck. Thank you.
Those are not esp based from what I remember.
What are the options for a rocker style wifi switch? similar to the eva logik you showed? My wife just wants standard decora switches and I can't always fit a mini or shelly in a single box.
Only one that really comes close is that Evalogik I showed.
@@digiblurDIY Unfortunately the Eva Logik switching currently shipping from Amazon use a WB3S Tuya chip rather than the TYWE3S we all know, love, and need. Not aware of this chip being freed from its Tuya Cloud shackles yet.
You can free them. Just takes a little manual labor. Transplant
@@digiblurDIY Unfortunately for this particular switch that still might not be enough. Instead of lying flat in relation to the main board like a typical ESP8266 module, the WB3S module attaches in a perpendicular manner, tucked between the neutral and 3-way traveler screw terminals. It extends 15mm from the main board, which appears to be all the available space before you hit the back of the shell. Unfortunately the ESP12S modules I've been able to find for the 'brain transplant' are at least 24mm. The amount of work it would take to completely relocate the module just isn't worth the hassle. I say 'might' in hopes that someone can prove me wrong, as I much prefer this switch's 2-button design to the single-button models like the MJ-S01.
Totally feel you there when the rabbit hole is just too deep.
What happened to No Cloud with Tasmota ESPHome?????
It's here. Flash em up!
Have you ever flashed a Martine Jerry 3 way switch
Yes, I did a video on it last year maybe? I had it in this video but since it was the same switch, it got cut out as it looked the same.
Looking at a Moesgo no neutral required.
Sound tests the capacitive touch one 😂
That's one of the jokes ;)
Hello professor T
You need smart switches to avoid a divorce!
Indeed! No taping of light switches here. Keeping it "old school" where you can still use the wall even if you have smart bulbs.
Is is bad that I can identify some of them just by the sound :D
He is one of us!
Haha a doctor that is not named. I wonder who that is. LOL
There are two around that I know of ;)
ahh drZZz. :D yeah he's unconventional I guess. lol. Wild Wild West. 20:30
I have no idea what you're talking about, I mentioned your name though.
@@digiblurDIY right. lol. ua-cam.com/video/ab472a40-co/v-deo.html
@ 5:33