Tried your flashmethod on my Zemismart blinds controller this weekend and it worked flawless. Thank you very much for your great video and helping me free my tuya device from the cloud!
I would like to thank you all this help. I received the 'No Solder' jig in the mail today. I previously tried the wireless Tuya-covert that went totally wrong while trying to upgrade a Martin Jerry switch. After getting everything all setup, I was able to successfully flash aTYWE3S module and get it up and running. I will definitely moving more smart home equipment out of the cloud.
Travis, Great instructional video! Thanks for all of the effort, time, and help you provide the community. And glad to see the "beach stud" make the jump! ;-)
Printed the jig, was able to get Python working on Windows 10 (what a pain) and was actually able to get my Martin Jerry Dimmer flashed. Esptool let me know it was connected and Tasmotizer flashed it. I logged in to Tasmota on the dimmer and did an update. When it came back up it had fewer buttons and said something about minimum update, update again. I did that and couldn't connect to the switch again and couldn't ping it. It was late last night and I was a bit groggy, but I'll try again later after I chase the mower around the lawn after work. Thanks for all you do, couldn't have made it this far without your videos!!!!
Thanks so much for all your beginner-friendly videos. This is just another video that will keep me invested in all that you do. Thank you for all that your doing keep it up. Also thanks for the JIG. Can not wait to try this out.
I totally get it. I flashed several with it myself and it is so much faster but I will say the best part is it enables so many people to take their stuff out of the cloud.
Took several times to work/connect and complete... used NodeMCU flasher since it shows the connection and progress details... jig connections are very finicky but after a bunch of partials it finally finished 100%!
The video was interesting, but the most important thing I learned may have been "creepstrand" at 2:10... hadn't heard that one before... Love the content!
That was a great video. I have dreading opening my TreatLife dimmer and switch. Now I can flash them with Tasmota and put them in the dinning room. Thanks Again Mike
Awesome :) I've gotten really lucky and managed to use the tuya-covert to push 5 recently purchased devices to tasmota. 3 of the devices had been setup in the cloud but apparently haven't received a firmware upgrade that breaks that method. Been loving HA. Currently hosted on a Pi, but will probably push to a VM soon so I can back it up properly.
I had been working my way through your videos relating to flashing Tasmota on various Tuya-based devices having purchased several Gosund dimmers and switches. I have enjoyed your videos and found them to be very helpful. The first units I flashed, I soldered leads to test pads available on the board which was fairly tedious/tricky. I even tried creating my own plug/jig using dome pogo pins and a hobby board. This was very awkward and just didn't end up being very useful. Then I happened upon this video that solves the problem very nicely with a jig to connect on the chip itself... brilliant! Anyway, I am now a fan and am very grateful for your videos and the time you take figuring this stuff out. Later... OK. Bad news... the switches I have use a different package for the MCU. SO... the jig will not work as implemented here. But, since you included the FreeCAD file, I can see if I can modify your design that will work for this other package... there is still hope. :)
@@digiblurDIY Funny you should ask... I asked a question on your discord server after having problems programming them, and it was suggested that the KKWE2S modules might not be ESP-based and that could be the source of problems I'm having programming them. I haven't been able to confirm that, though. I've not found any info on this particular module online, nor FCCID on the units themselves. The MAC addresses, though do have vendor codes that are Espressif, and my router lists them as "ESP_xyzabc" when they join my wifi. The units are Gosund... internally, the module has the identifier "SW2" on the boards, but the box shows them as "DS1". So... I am at a loss. Any info or guidance you can offer would be most appreciated. Thanks for responding.
I bet those are ESP chips then. I know Gosund has used some weird packages on their chips at times. Now finding the pin out could be a pain unless you can take that metal housing off.
@@digiblurDIY Lol. Yeah, for sure... I have been through ALL their datasheets looking for a package match.. A couple are close (pins on three sides), but different pin counts. The first unit I programmed successfully with wires soldered to the (test?) pads on the board (labelled Rx, Tx, 3V3, GND, GPIO0), so it seems they're labelled correctly. Unfortunately, that first (working) module is installed now and I've been reluctant to pull it back out and disassemble it to confirm whether it's the same as the units giving me problems. Certainly, from memory I think it's the same, but I wanted to check the part number, version number, etc. printed on the module. I am still able to reset the modules and configure it with the Gosund app on my phone. So, I think I haven't damaged the units messing around with them. I think I'll get out the scope and have a look at the serial comms and see what I can see... If I don't get something going soon, I'll probably abandon them in favor of a device that you have info on that is known to work (I think there's an MJ Dimmer you've mentioned that might be a good choice). Anyway.. weird. not sure what else to try... just about ready to throw in the towel. If I do, the last thing I'll try is de-capping one of them to have a look under the can. Definitely curious. Thanks for the consult.
Many thanks!! I try to keep it clean, simple, and pure as this is just a hobby and community I really enjoy sharing back to. I don't do a lot of the things I probably should that various YT articles recommend, like arrows/question marks on the thumbnails, surprise poop face, super click bait titles, grinding all the social media sites, sling nothing but main stream products, etc...
Thanks for the excellent instructions. I just got mine working. I ended up just soldering the wires since I don't have access to a 3d printer. The ground pin was a little tricky to solder and the gpio0 was also hard since all you've got to attach to is the castellation. But flashing worked the first time. Thank you! I've got a two gang box with decora/decorator covers. Now that I have a free spot do you have a wifi button, preferably several in one unit that you recommend?
Yup! I have one or two of these 3 button switches. It will take a jib/solder manual method but again, super easy one as it as the TYWE3S module again. amzn.to/2GHtQsi
I’ve got two fan controllers waiting for me to flash and install. It’s the first thing I am going to do after we get back from our mini family vacation
I'd split the pogo flasher device down middle & glue some clothes pin clips on either side & then you don't need your finger or a clamp to hold down... you can just spread it open then clip it together
Hey Travis, love your videos. Just now starting to get into tasmota. One question for you. If you re-flash the fan controller/dimmer with tasmota, it erases the factory firmware, right? Will it still have the voice functions for Alexa or will I have to find another voice control to use? Thanks for your help.
Yeah, you are removing the cloud from it totally. You'll tie into a home automation system such as Openhab, Home Assistant, etc and those systems provide the automations and voice control.
This may be off-topic, but your video sparked an interest. I have Geeni/Merkury products in my home that utilize the TYWE3S system. At the moment, I am wedded to their cloud. Is it possible to convert them to another system? Maybe not the A19 light bulbs because the module is embedded in the screw base and access would be very difficult. Another question has to do with a device that does not register in their cloud. It connects - creates an AP I can connect to - but the activation fails. Is repair possible by reprogramming?
Just a short note that I fould the plastic clamp at a local big box hardware store here in the Midwest for $3.99. Model is a Quickgrip by Irwin MFG. Local big box store name is Menards. Initially here used painters tape to keep the jig on to the chip. The endeavor started me on cleaning up electrical wires and replacing the metal dual gang mud ring with a plastic mud ring. I used Ideal push In connectors and removed all of the wire nuts. These push in connectors are available at most if not all big box hardware stores. I replaced the metal mud ring with a Carlon or Thomas And Betts Lamson plastic mud ring.
I flashed my treatlife light/fan switch with tasmotizer and it seemed successful. Tasmotizer would not, however send the wifi configuration through, and I could not get the IP address. I tried a couple times, and even wired it up to main power but I am still not able to find the IP address. I don't think it is in the access mode.
Great video! I took the CAD file for 3d printing to several places and they said the same thing that the wall thickness is below 1mm and it couldn't be printed? Is the cad model correct?
I'm having the same issue here. I shared the STL file with a few companies for 3D printing and all of them claim the wall thickness is too small and can't be printed.
@@digiblurDIY Right, so my situation is as such: I have 30ish switches installed - they will not flash over the air and I REALLY don't want to remove them. So I thought the tuya local might be a good alternative unless there is another less invasive option? Thanks so much! I am using treatlife switches right now.
Me, I'd just probably buy a few spares, flash 'em, and swap them out here and there and have them done in a week or two and not waste my time on some other hacky method.
Or just get a set of those clamp probes and cut in half and put a 4-dupont connector on them and color code them and you have a jumper for your usb ttl/serial/uart flasher, or even desolder pins and solder clamps on permanent
@@digiblurDIY I didnt do enough research into Tuya before I purchased a few lightbulbs. I liked the idea to re-flash them when I purchased 3. But then I get em and it's not working and I start to do more research and find out Tuya used a new module in >2019,. lol. And bulbs have to be ripped apart to do. So I am stuck doing the API calls in the cloud with the Tuya multiple apps for home assistant integration. Sucks :(, but I would totally print one of those files and reflash any switches or outlets I had. But I have all Zwave/Zigbee at the moment (about 35 switches and 10 outlets and a TON of other zigbee motion and door/window sensors.
@@digiblurDIY I didnt come accross this at all during my research! Thank you! Testing out now! I wish Tuya would just addopt Matter or something... but the fact they are a "ready made" smart home tech that just license out their products and API and cloud to any company wanting to jump in to the market is their bread and butter... make it so those companies are stuck to you for the life of the products and you always have an influx of money, unless they fold... Even the Tuya app is a generic one they provide, and companies can skin it with their logos and colors and poof, abcsmarthome, inc. has an instant overnight full smart home device lineup and smart app... :/
Howdy - I have one of your illustrious jigs and have used it successfully on a switch. However, I have a strange problem, I have a YeeWell brand switch (TYWE3S chip) that is a post 2020 (cannot OTA convert). I pop the jig on, wire it up and Tasmotizer'ed it with the latest firmware - apparently successfully in that it hit the 100% done pop-up. I reassembled the switch and hooked it up and it proceeds to automatically and continuously toggles on and off. Ever had that happen?
Does Tasmota come up? It could be normal if the relay is on the status led pin of a sonoff basic. I hate that the default of that comes up still today.
Take gpio0 off of ground. Open a serial terminal at 115200 baud. Termite serial terminal works. See what's going on with it. The jig needs to be connected of course with mains power not attached.
Probably one of my older ones with a serial flash. It shows the use of Termite. It is the same console you see in the Tasmota GUI so the commands are the same. I usually hit enter to see if I get anything back from Tasmota. Jump into our discord if you get stuck.
@@digiblurDIY the log gave this error. new client on port 443 from 10.42.42.21:3811 ID: 0242416f68626d643661473931494652313aa0bd1cf7b182ae22a51d57e772ba7d12d678acd23c9e08302b5f0141898f83 PSK: e8dc8cab9ba23effac3a43ddb2406a8fbf673553f5d75ce66712fd4d34a32f54 could not establish sslpsk socket: [SSL: DECRYPTION_FAILED_OR_BAD_RECORD_MAC] decryption failed or bad record mac (_ssl.c:1056)
@@digiblurDIY auto correct 🤦♂️ any videos on flashing smart phones 🤣 Seems was router setting in wifi6 were 2.5 and 5 g are same name and password. Once off worked right away.
I assume you can already build your own device and bin if you want to do Esphome? Little different project style so I didn't show how to do it given it is specialized per device and person. Once you build your bin I would use the Esphome flasher talked about here to send the bin over. esphome.io/guides/faq.html#i-can-t-get-flashing-over-usb-to-work
That is one way but might as well just flash from the jump to make it safer. If you do go from Tasmota to Esphome. Be sure to turn off the safety check in Tasmota otherwise it will refuse the bin. Go to the console of Tasmota and type Setoption78 1
ANYONE flash the new version emporia smart plug? the new one has the power button on the side and the esp is mounted on secondary borad pain in the butt
I tried these pins...couldn't find the exact ones. Looks like the rod diameter is bigger on these. Little bit of a bear to make them fit, holes just need to be a hair bigger. www.amazon.com/TOTOT-Conical-Thimble-Testing-Contact/dp/B07MZM62K5
@@digiblurDIY if you like snooping on devices with odd behavior, get a Reolink PTZ zoom camera and a normal Reolink PTZ, connect both to your network using the phone app and all that BS. Call the zoom camera "something PTZ Bedroom" and the other whatever you want. On my network, the "Bedroom PTZ" has had traffic of 15Gb uploaded the last 3 days and it has been used for a maximum of 2 minutes, the other two PTZ cameras + my front gate camera, a Reolink RLC-511W has combined, less than 10GB uploaded and the gate camera is on for at least 15 hours per day. (combined data for these cameras are over a 10 day period) xD
@@digiblurDIY Yeah, I have a network from UniFi so that might be it, I made a post In a support group for UniFi asking about how much I can trust these numbers and why they differ from Deep Packet Inspection, they have focused more on that I have a PTZ camera in the bedroom. 😂 (The camera is placed in a way where it only sees a messy desk or my cat ahole when she is hanging out the window)
Dude sorry but someone has to tell you this. Shave your head. Seriously, your hair isn't and won't work. Shave your head and maybe grow out your beard.
@@digiblurDIY I think need to suddenly develop a love for RAID: Shadow Legends then. In all seriousness thought, sorry if I offended/annoyed you. I try to mention things like this to people, because for the first ~half of high school I had bad body odour issues, but I genuinely didn't realize I had them (I showered and washed everyday obviously, but had overactive sweat glands). Nobody told me for years so I was completely unaware of it, and thought people avoided me for other reasons. Friend's/acquaintances who I've told in real life have been grateful because usually no one has really properly mentioned it to them (just as they didn't to me in HS). Most shaved it and were much happier with the results. But if you like/don't mind it how it is then more power to you. I also guess I should have realized that many people have likely told you, given that it's the internet and not real life so people seem to have less of a filter.
As always, love your tutorials, they are super helpful. I just purchase one of the (Treatlife Fan/Dimmer Combo mentioned - amzn.to/3eY2iLh) and wanted to flash it. However, it uses a different chip - WB3S. Where can i get a one that uses the TYW3S chip? Thanks in advanced
Just finished installing my flashed switch in the wall. Works great! Your videos have been a huge help lately, thanks!
Glad to help! Get your S..... out of the cloud! :)
Tried your flashmethod on my Zemismart blinds controller this weekend and it worked flawless. Thank you very much for your great video and helping me free my tuya device from the cloud!
Great to hear!
Sometimes it’s the simplest things that are so easy to overlook - hats off this is genius! 😊
The claw!
I would like to thank you all this help. I received the 'No Solder' jig in the mail today. I previously tried the wireless Tuya-covert that went totally wrong while trying to upgrade a Martin Jerry switch. After getting everything all setup, I was able to successfully flash aTYWE3S module and get it up and running. I will definitely moving more smart home equipment out of the cloud.
Great to hear! It's addicting taking full control over the electronics you purchase.
Travis, Great instructional video! Thanks for all of the effort, time, and help you provide the community. And glad to see the "beach stud" make the jump! ;-)
I knew you had an eye for the hidden gems! It all ties together in some weird geekish way.
This is great! Can't wait for all of my supplies to arrive so I can finally get control of these fans.
The are really a great little fan controller.
This is going to be very helpful when I try it myself this weekend. Thanks.
Printed the jig, was able to get Python working on Windows 10 (what a pain) and was actually able to get my Martin Jerry Dimmer flashed. Esptool let me know it was connected and Tasmotizer flashed it. I logged in to Tasmota on the dimmer and did an update. When it came back up it had fewer buttons and said something about minimum update, update again. I did that and couldn't connect to the switch again and couldn't ping it. It was late last night and I was a bit groggy, but I'll try again later after I chase the mower around the lawn after work. Thanks for all you do, couldn't have made it this far without your videos!!!!
If you do an update sometimes it needs to flash minimal itself in between. Just let it sit.
Finally got around to doing this for a couple of switches that I had. Worked great. No issues at all! Thank you for the great video!
Nice work!
Thanks so much for all your beginner-friendly videos. This is just another video that will keep me invested in all that you do. Thank you for all that your doing keep it up. Also thanks for the JIG. Can not wait to try this out.
Looking forward to hearing as much success as I had with it.
Glad you like my jig. Feel free to let me know if you have any issues with it
Dude, thanks for this. That is a great idea for those of us that may be solder-challenged. I may hit you up.
I totally get it. I flashed several with it myself and it is so much faster but I will say the best part is it enables so many people to take their stuff out of the cloud.
Love the stunts disclaimer at the end... Lol! Classic!
Glad you enjoyed it. It made his day that he was on what he calls "The Big UA-cam".
Took several times to work/connect and complete... used NodeMCU flasher since it shows the connection and progress details... jig connections are very finicky but after a bunch of partials it finally finished 100%!
once you get that first one down it's all good...
The video was interesting, but the most important thing I learned may have been "creepstrand" at 2:10... hadn't heard that one before... Love the content!
Search barcode cop on Google images.
That was a great video. I have dreading opening my TreatLife dimmer and switch. Now I can flash them with Tasmota and put them in the dinning room. Thanks Again Mike
Glad it helped out. It will definitely spoil you, it has already for me.
@@digiblurDIY It will be nice to get the jig you designed. Thanks Travis.
Awesome :) I've gotten really lucky and managed to use the tuya-covert to push 5 recently purchased devices to tasmota. 3 of the devices had been setup in the cloud but apparently haven't received a firmware upgrade that breaks that method.
Been loving HA. Currently hosted on a Pi, but will probably push to a VM soon so I can back it up properly.
Nice work!
Great work as always
Appreciate that
I like your accent man, and also i really appreciate your efforts,
Really clear and useful
Thumps up
Thanks! I do recommend for some to speed me up a bit on the playback speed feature :)
@@digiblurDIY Very Cajun!
Nice video. I downloaded the .stl. Gotta make one and see how it works.
Your videos are awesome. Keep it up!
Thanks a ton!
Awesome! Thanks for your videos!
My pleasure!
This is brilliant! And your son is super cute!
Thanks! Ties together in a weird nerdy way ;)
Thank you so much man!!
Excellent, thanks
Super video! I applauded for $2.00 👏
Wow, thanks!
I had been working my way through your videos relating to flashing Tasmota on various Tuya-based devices having purchased several Gosund dimmers and switches. I have enjoyed your videos and found them to be very helpful. The first units I flashed, I soldered leads to test pads available on the board which was fairly tedious/tricky. I even tried creating my own plug/jig using dome pogo pins and a hobby board. This was very awkward and just didn't end up being very useful. Then I happened upon this video that solves the problem very nicely with a jig to connect on the chip itself... brilliant! Anyway, I am now a fan and am very grateful for your videos and the time you take figuring this stuff out.
Later...
OK. Bad news... the switches I have use a different package for the MCU. SO... the jig will not work as implemented here. But, since you included the FreeCAD file, I can see if I can modify your design that will work for this other package... there is still hope. :)
What modules do your switches have?
@@digiblurDIY Funny you should ask... I asked a question on your discord server after having problems programming them, and it was suggested that the KKWE2S modules might not be ESP-based and that could be the source of problems I'm having programming them. I haven't been able to confirm that, though. I've not found any info on this particular module online, nor FCCID on the units themselves. The MAC addresses, though do have vendor codes that are Espressif, and my router lists them as "ESP_xyzabc" when they join my wifi. The units are Gosund... internally, the module has the identifier "SW2" on the boards, but the box shows them as "DS1". So... I am at a loss. Any info or guidance you can offer would be most appreciated. Thanks for responding.
I bet those are ESP chips then. I know Gosund has used some weird packages on their chips at times. Now finding the pin out could be a pain unless you can take that metal housing off.
@@digiblurDIY Lol. Yeah, for sure... I have been through ALL their datasheets looking for a package match.. A couple are close (pins on three sides), but different pin counts. The first unit I programmed successfully with wires soldered to the (test?) pads on the board (labelled Rx, Tx, 3V3, GND, GPIO0), so it seems they're labelled correctly. Unfortunately, that first (working) module is installed now and I've been reluctant to pull it back out and disassemble it to confirm whether it's the same as the units giving me problems. Certainly, from memory I think it's the same, but I wanted to check the part number, version number, etc. printed on the module. I am still able to reset the modules and configure it with the Gosund app on my phone. So, I think I haven't damaged the units messing around with them. I think I'll get out the scope and have a look at the serial comms and see what I can see... If I don't get something going soon, I'll probably abandon them in favor of a device that you have info on that is known to work (I think there's an MJ Dimmer you've mentioned that might be a good choice). Anyway.. weird. not sure what else to try... just about ready to throw in the towel. If I do, the last thing I'll try is de-capping one of them to have a look under the can. Definitely curious. Thanks for the consult.
I was going to say to take the other one and scope out the pins based off the known working ones.
Wish the treat life dimmers had that nreset open pin. Great video Travis as always
Can you look up the datasheet on the mcu?
Trying to find the Mcu specs but couldn’t find much
Any progress on this? I finally got a batch of dimmers that I cannot OTA convert
great video...thanks alot...from indonesia
This guys really needs more subs. Come on people. Don't be a lurker, subscribe to the man!! 18.4K subs... makes me sad.
Many thanks!! I try to keep it clean, simple, and pure as this is just a hobby and community I really enjoy sharing back to. I don't do a lot of the things I probably should that various YT articles recommend, like arrows/question marks on the thumbnails, surprise poop face, super click bait titles, grinding all the social media sites, sling nothing but main stream products, etc...
Awesome! Can you please do a video on adding PIRs to switches or making a stand alone PiR.
I have done a few before from night lights, 3 way switches an even a regular switch with a temperature.
Great video eish l had that last night. Lol
Travis, Just to clarify, the video helped. I would like to receive one of your gigs. Mike
Shoot me an email at the channel name on the Gmail domain.
Thanks for the excellent instructions. I just got mine working. I ended up just soldering the wires since I don't have access to a 3d printer. The ground pin was a little tricky to solder and the gpio0 was also hard since all you've got to attach to is the castellation. But flashing worked the first time. Thank you!
I've got a two gang box with decora/decorator covers. Now that I have a free spot do you have a wifi button, preferably several in one unit that you recommend?
Yup! I have one or two of these 3 button switches. It will take a jib/solder manual method but again, super easy one as it as the TYWE3S module again. amzn.to/2GHtQsi
I’ve got two fan controllers waiting for me to flash and install. It’s the first thing I am going to do after we get back from our mini family vacation
Enjoy the analog world!
I'd split the pogo flasher device down middle & glue some clothes pin clips on either side & then you don't need your finger or a clamp to hold down... you can just spread it open then clip it together
Hey Travis, love your videos. Just now starting to get into tasmota. One question for you. If you re-flash the fan controller/dimmer with tasmota, it erases the factory firmware, right? Will it still have the voice functions for Alexa or will I have to find another voice control to use? Thanks for your help.
Yeah, you are removing the cloud from it totally. You'll tie into a home automation system such as Openhab, Home Assistant, etc and those systems provide the automations and voice control.
This may be off-topic, but your video sparked an interest. I have Geeni/Merkury products in my home that utilize the TYWE3S system. At the moment, I am wedded to their cloud. Is it possible to convert them to another system? Maybe not the A19 light bulbs because the module is embedded in the screw base and access would be very difficult. Another question has to do with a device that does not register in their cloud. It connects - creates an AP I can connect to - but the activation fails. Is repair possible by reprogramming?
Anything that basically has the ESP chip which the TYWE3S is, and you can physically get to the chip, it is all fair game and can be yours. Flash it!
Just a short note that I fould the plastic clamp at a local big box hardware store here in the Midwest for $3.99. Model is a Quickgrip by Irwin MFG. Local big box store name is Menards. Initially here used painters tape to keep the jig on to the chip.
The endeavor started me on cleaning up electrical wires and replacing the metal dual gang mud ring with a plastic mud ring. I used Ideal push In connectors and removed all of the wire nuts. These push in connectors are available at most if not all big box hardware stores. I replaced the metal mud ring with a Carlon or Thomas And Betts Lamson plastic mud ring.
If it can be done can you do a video on how to flash WYZE products with what would work best with Home Assistant Thanks
Which wyze?
I flashed my treatlife light/fan switch with tasmotizer and it seemed successful. Tasmotizer would not, however send the wifi configuration through, and I could not get the IP address. I tried a couple times, and even wired it up to main power but I am still not able to find the IP address. I don't think it is in the access mode.
Try a reflash and make sure erase data is checked and after power up make sure GPIO zero is not held to ground.
WIll this work for my treatlife switches? I guess I gotta order one of these.
Is it one of these? ua-cam.com/video/48g6qJHe3ZU/v-deo.html
Is there any guide to convert pir sensors? Thank you
I don't have any guides as I use zigbee battery sensors or wired motion sensors.
Do any bulbs/switches with this chip work with tuya convert?
Not really a known list as it changes everyday.
Would it be possible to create a similar Flashing Jig for TYWE2S ?
Someone has made a couple www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Tywe2s&type=things&sort=relevant
Do you sell the Jigs? I do not have or access to 3D printer.
Send me an email to the channel name at the gmail domain.
Would it be possible to create a Flashing Jig for TYWE2S ?
Someone has made a couple www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Tywe2s&type=things&sort=relevant
"Get your Shit out of the ClouD" We need a T-shirt........ digiblurDIY.> Get Your Shit Out Of the Cloud!!!
I might have to check the UA-cam rules on that one. Ha.
Great video! I took the CAD file for 3d printing to several places and they said the same thing that the wall thickness is below 1mm and it couldn't be printed? Is the cad model correct?
I haven't used the cad file myself. Just the STL they have.
@@digiblurDIY It was the STL file I sent to them. They said it couldn't be manufactured from that file.....?
I'm having the same issue here. I shared the STL file with a few companies for 3D printing and all of them claim the wall thickness is too small and can't be printed.
Prusa printed it fine.
@@digiblurDIY Is that your own 3d printer or a service that printed it for you?
Mr. Blur have you looked at Tuya Local? Without being able to OTA flash some of these units I was wondering your thoughts on this?
Yeah but it did seem to have some issues. Many other more reliable devices/solutions out there.
@@digiblurDIY Do any of the other options not involve taking apart the switches and reflashing them? Thanks!
Yep, tuya convert still works on a few switches. Or you can roll with preflashed stuff, Zigbee, Zwave, or a few things have local control like Shelly.
@@digiblurDIY Right, so my situation is as such: I have 30ish switches installed - they will not flash over the air and I REALLY don't want to remove them. So I thought the tuya local might be a good alternative unless there is another less invasive option? Thanks so much! I am using treatlife switches right now.
Me, I'd just probably buy a few spares, flash 'em, and swap them out here and there and have them done in a week or two and not waste my time on some other hacky method.
I just tried today to flush a few TuyaSmart plugs with original firmware 1.4.2 using Tuya convert to tasmota. Unfortunately none of them worked
They are branding their own?
digiblurDIY no clue
Hi, your invited is not working for me, please help.
Invited?
Or just get a set of those clamp probes and cut in half and put a 4-dupont connector on them and color code them and you have a jumper for your usb ttl/serial/uart flasher, or even desolder pins and solder clamps on permanent
Clippy bois?
@@digiblurDIY I didnt do enough research into Tuya before I purchased a few lightbulbs. I liked the idea to re-flash them when I purchased 3. But then I get em and it's not working and I start to do more research and find out Tuya used a new module in >2019,. lol. And bulbs have to be ripped apart to do. So I am stuck doing the API calls in the cloud with the Tuya multiple apps for home assistant integration. Sucks :(, but I would totally print one of those files and reflash any switches or outlets I had.
But I have all Zwave/Zigbee at the moment (about 35 switches and 10 outlets and a TON of other zigbee motion and door/window sensors.
You can use a Tuya Cloudcutter most likely on the new module.
@@digiblurDIY I didnt come accross this at all during my research! Thank you! Testing out now! I wish Tuya would just addopt Matter or something... but the fact they are a "ready made" smart home tech that just license out their products and API and cloud to any company wanting to jump in to the market is their bread and butter... make it so those companies are stuck to you for the life of the products and you always have an influx of money, unless they fold...
Even the Tuya app is a generic one they provide, and companies can skin it with their logos and colors and poof, abcsmarthome, inc. has an instant overnight full smart home device lineup and smart app... :/
Howdy - I have one of your illustrious jigs and have used it successfully on a switch. However, I have a strange problem, I have a YeeWell brand switch (TYWE3S chip) that is a post 2020 (cannot OTA convert). I pop the jig on, wire it up and Tasmotizer'ed it with the latest firmware - apparently successfully in that it hit the 100% done pop-up. I reassembled the switch and hooked it up and it proceeds to automatically and continuously toggles on and off. Ever had that happen?
Does Tasmota come up? It could be normal if the relay is on the status led pin of a sonoff basic. I hate that the default of that comes up still today.
@@digiblurDIY The switch never appears as a Tasmota access point on WiFi. Being a newbie that's what I expected to see.
Take gpio0 off of ground. Open a serial terminal at 115200 baud. Termite serial terminal works. See what's going on with it. The jig needs to be connected of course with mains power not attached.
@@digiblurDIY Can do but I need a bit more insight. Can you point me to a tutorial or command list that I can use for problem determination?
Probably one of my older ones with a serial flash. It shows the use of Termite. It is the same console you see in the Tasmota GUI so the commands are the same. I usually hit enter to see if I get anything back from Tasmota. Jump into our discord if you get stuck.
What template should I use?
For?
this is the only method to flash? I bought a switch and it came with the TYWE3S P/N w601. would there be any other way to flash?
Tuya Convert might work.
@@digiblurDIY I tried following your tutorial(watch?v=dt5-iZc4_qU&t), but it didn't work. do you think this new version of tuya convert works?
Check the psk log for the decryption error.
@@digiblurDIY the log gave this error. new client on port 443 from 10.42.42.21:3811
ID: 0242416f68626d643661473931494652313aa0bd1cf7b182ae22a51d57e772ba7d12d678acd23c9e08302b5f0141898f83
PSK: e8dc8cab9ba23effac3a43ddb2406a8fbf673553f5d75ce66712fd4d34a32f54
could not establish sslpsk socket: [SSL: DECRYPTION_FAILED_OR_BAD_RECORD_MAC] decryption failed or bad record mac (_ssl.c:1056)
Yep, that's new blocked firmware. Lucky it has a TYWE3S that can be flashed manually.
Has been reflashed and is now connected to Wi-Fi network...
But I can't connect to it now?
Any ideas?
Not sure I understand what that means released?
@@digiblurDIY auto correct 🤦♂️ any videos on flashing smart phones 🤣
Seems was router setting in wifi6 were 2.5 and 5 g are same name and password.
Once off worked right away.
er so where can I buy the jig?
You can print one or have a print house service do one or email me.
i need to do this to a qfn32 , anyone got any files?
dang...that's some super fine pitch there for a jig. Unfortunately no.
Where can we find instructions for esphome?
I assume you can already build your own device and bin if you want to do Esphome? Little different project style so I didn't show how to do it given it is specialized per device and person. Once you build your bin I would use the Esphome flasher talked about here to send the bin over.
esphome.io/guides/faq.html#i-can-t-get-flashing-over-usb-to-work
Once your device is tasmotised then simply upload the bin into the flash firmware section in tasmota. Updates to esphome!
That is one way but might as well just flash from the jump to make it safer. If you do go from Tasmota to Esphome. Be sure to turn off the safety check in Tasmota otherwise it will refuse the bin. Go to the console of Tasmota and type
Setoption78 1
ANYONE flash the new version emporia smart plug? the new one has the power button on the side and the esp is mounted on secondary borad pain in the butt
Got any pics? Is it esp32?
@@digiblurDIY can post links in chat? Ill try shortly
You can in the Discord discord.digiblur.com
Wait, inside TYWE3S is an ESP8266?
Yes.
@@digiblurDIY Interesting. Then, what is in WB3S?
Custom Beken chip.
If you are using 16mm pogo pins, I have uploaded STL file for the 16mm pins at ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:4547369 )
Great job! I will have to check this one out as the other pins have become hard to find now unfortunately.
I tried these pins...couldn't find the exact ones. Looks like the rod diameter is bigger on these. Little bit of a bear to make them fit, holes just need to be a hair bigger. www.amazon.com/TOTOT-Conical-Thimble-Testing-Contact/dp/B07MZM62K5
Would love to see the JQ-200 / JQ-300 taken out of the cloud. Some work done here: github.com/xoseperez/espurna/issues/1644
8 Dislikes, that is how many at the Tuya HQ speaks English
Hahahah... They probably hate my latest ones.
@@digiblurDIY if you like snooping on devices with odd behavior, get a Reolink PTZ zoom camera and a normal Reolink PTZ, connect both to your network using the phone app and all that BS.
Call the zoom camera "something PTZ Bedroom" and the other whatever you want. On my network, the "Bedroom PTZ" has had traffic of 15Gb uploaded the last 3 days and it has been used for a maximum of 2 minutes, the other two PTZ cameras + my front gate camera, a Reolink RLC-511W has combined, less than 10GB uploaded and the gate camera is on for at least 15 hours per day. (combined data for these cameras are over a 10 day period) xD
I haven't seen that issue before except with someone using a drunk Unifi router. It said an ESP chip transferred 100 gigs of data in one day.
@@digiblurDIY Yeah, I have a network from UniFi so that might be it, I made a post In a support group for UniFi asking about how much I can trust these numbers and why they differ from Deep Packet Inspection, they have focused more on that I have a PTZ camera in the bedroom. 😂 (The camera is placed in a way where it only sees a messy desk or my cat ahole when she is hanging out the window)
All depends on if your network is 94.38748% happy or not. 😎
This is sure a lot of effort to not spend 20 seconds tack soldering 5 wires to the thing
Some folks can't or choose not to solder and I get it. But even for a soldering person like myself I still use a jig. Just so quick sometimes.
Dude sorry but someone has to tell you this. Shave your head. Seriously, your hair isn't and won't work. Shave your head and maybe grow out your beard.
What!? Oh my. You are the first to say anything. Let me go check to see what you are talking about.
I see what you are talking about. Think shooting in 4K will help?
@@digiblurDIY 8K 120hz or go home.
That's what I am talking about! Now let's check the YT funds...
@@digiblurDIY I think need to suddenly develop a love for RAID: Shadow Legends then.
In all seriousness thought, sorry if I offended/annoyed you. I try to mention things like this to people, because for the first ~half of high school I had bad body odour issues, but I genuinely didn't realize I had them (I showered and washed everyday obviously, but had overactive sweat glands). Nobody told me for years so I was completely unaware of it, and thought people avoided me for other reasons.
Friend's/acquaintances who I've told in real life have been grateful because usually no one has really properly mentioned it to them (just as they didn't to me in HS). Most shaved it and were much happier with the results.
But if you like/don't mind it how it is then more power to you. I also guess I should have realized that many people have likely told you, given that it's the internet and not real life so people seem to have less of a filter.
As always, love your tutorials, they are super helpful. I just purchase one of the (Treatlife Fan/Dimmer Combo mentioned - amzn.to/3eY2iLh) and wanted to flash it. However, it uses a different chip - WB3S. Where can i get a one that uses the TYW3S chip?
Thanks in advanced
This one still seems to come with it, just rebranded, everything else is the same amzn.to/2U1uxTL
Otherwise you'd have to do the latest video steps.
@@digiblurDIY Thanks, i just ordered two of them.