Always a Joy viewing your videos, the delivery is well pace and not rush. I learn a lot from the way present your information. Everything always on point. Just Great!
Thanks again for your input with these. I've had mine installed for a few weeks now and they have been solid. Glad to see that the LED's are controllable via rules, but i just kept them stock (blue off, red/orange on) and adjusted all my single poles to reflect that as well.
Same here.. A few folks kept saying try them.. Try them.. When I finally did I was like wooooaahh! Never again will I use stupid wire nuts. Only regret I have is not switching earlier.
@@digiblurDIY I bought my first box online but found that I can by them in my Menard's stores so they might be available in other home improvement-type stores.
Great video. When I went to download Tasmota, there were many new versions and all kinds of warnings about upgrade troubles. I ignored all warnings and downloaded at least 4 versions (up thru latest, v9.2.0) and each flashed just fine. I could not get MQTT to connect with any version until I realized I was using a "#" within my MQTT username, it seems some special characters are taboo! Now I need to find a WIFI switch that will function like a "slave" to my zwave "master". Thank you for excellent work.
I wouldn't say upgrade troubles unless you just haven't upgraded a device in a loooonggg time. Yes that # is a bad character to use in MQTT as it is kind of like the wildcard of * that you see a lot of others use.
@@digiblurDIY As a newbie to WIFI (coming from Vera/Zwave) I don't know what firmware is baked into the switches I just got from Amazon. So I am not sure how to know if I will brick it.
Thanks for your videos. They have been a huge help. Is there a way you can make a video on how you are wiring up the switches on your test bench with the Cliff Quicktest? I was confused on how to hook up the load and line (red and black) if I were using this kind of external setup for testing purposes.
Sounds like a good subject to cover indeed as bench testing a switch is always on my list. Helps remove a bit of frustration. Will definitely put this on the list. In the mean time feel free to hit me up on the discord link and I can walk you through it.
If you have both the "master" unit and "secondary" unit do you have to flash both units or just the master? Also how do you tell if the ESPchip on board has the favorable wifi or the RealTek? model = STD02 (purchased 2022) **Edit -- Excellent Video btw..!
Thanks for all the videos. Just going through some of the older ones like this. Question in regards to these smart switches. If Home Assistant or the WiFi is done, can you still control the lights from the switches shirtsleeves? Thanks.
Great video! Just curious, I’ve noticed that some of my switches would randomly start blinking. The switch still works but the LED continuously blinks. Any ideas why?
Based somewhat on this video *and* that Martin Jerry now offers the ST01 preflashed with Tasmota, I deployed 3 of them yesterday. They installed and worked perfectly. Well, not quite perfectly. For one of them, the default LED operation (green for on, none for off) isn't working quite right; the LED stays green all the time, though it does flicker off briefly when the switch toggles. I will sometimes notice that the LED has gone out and for one switch cycle, it works as expected, then sticks on again. I have tried everything I know of, most obviously duplicating settings from working switches, but all they have is "Tuya MCU" and no switch, relay or LED GPIO details, just a Tx and Rx, which is weird to me. Any ideas?
First off, this is an excellent video - thank you!!! Next, has anyone hooked this up to HomeBridge? I think I need to use the MQTT-Thing plugin, but this is my first project with Tasmota so I'm not sure what the configurations should look like. Specifically, the MQTT Topics - 1. Topic published by mqttthing to control on/off state. 2. Topic used to notify mqttthing of on/off state, 3. topic used to notify mqttthing of 'online' status. Thanks in advance!
@@digiblurDIY Okay, thanks. I think I just need to learn more about the basics of MQTT so I can better understand the methods. The get/set concepts is pretty straight forward, I just need to learn the syntax to make it all work via Homebridge. Again - great videos!
hmm got up to the part with termite and then it didnt work. i was wondering if maybe the flash was bad so i tried to re do it and it wont even show up now
I don't have any 4 ways to say so but I know on other 3 way switches people tested them in 4 way configs and swapped one of the three ways in the circuit without issue.
I have a bunch of these installed a s a 3 way and all are working fine. Now I want to install one as a 4 way. If I start the process with all the other switches as off when I press the button it clicks a few times and shows on in tasmota but clicks to off after a few seconds. If I start with the lights on (turned on from a plain switch) it works fine. Is there extar console commands I need. I used this rule1 on power1#state=0 do backlog ledpower1 0; ledpower2 1 endon on power1#state=1 do backlog ledpower1 1; ledpower2 0 endon and then rule1 1
No, all the load sensor stuff is handled internally. I found as long as your switchmode is set and such it should work. Otherwise you could be running into the interference issue some folks have been hit with.
Question, can this be configured to always have the relay on for wifi bulbs? The switches would act like a toggle to send mqtt commands to home assistant to control WiFi bulbs.
Yes. You could easily use the new setoption114 in this device case or you could just reassign the actual relay to another GPIO pin. I use two of those to control lamps and also kick off automations with long presses.
@@digiblurDIY awesome, and can the same be done for the dimmer switches? I’ve flashed the dimmer with your .bin file and was thinking that since the pwm output is 0-3.3, make that a relay as well and the option114 should do both?
This might seem like a strange question, but does anyone know if it's possible to get 2 of the newer ST01's pre-flashed with Tasmota to work together, meaning to replace BOTH of the 3-way switches with ST01's and not just one of them? My thoughts/reasoning are to ensure that the 3-way behavior all works completely locally over the traveler wires, without a need for wifi at all, and still enables smart control over wifi in the event that is desired. Also to keep both switches looking the same (yes, vanity is a thing). I'm going to run the experiment myself later this week, but just mainly curious if anyone else has gone down this rabbit hole before me, lol.
The new models have a secondary MCU to flip back and forth, not sure if it will work but you never know until you try. I honestly would just do two single pole switches in a device group setup. digiblur.com/wiki/wiring-diagrams/tasmota-devgroups
Just completed my build following your instructions, all works GREAT. I haven't installed in the wall yet but bench tested it and no issues. Thanks for doing these videos, makes dummies like me look good. I know there's docs on the Tasmota and I've gone through the commands before but it would be great if you can explain a little more on the GPIO mapping to the switch, button or relay.
Well strange development here, maybe someone here can help, if not I will post on Discord. I had successful on the bench with a 3 way setup but when I installed in the house the switch initially sorta worked. It powered up and there was a LED lit (Purple) and when I triggered the switch it turned the light off then on. When I hit it again, it turned off. I went to the other switches (Inside I have a 3-way then a 4-way then back to a 3-way switch setup in my kitchen. So flipping the 4-way or 3-way worked properly and didn't do a on/off/on sequence. Going back to MJ with the light OFF I clicked the switch and it went from on/off/on again. After a few times doing this, I hit the Reset button on the MJ thinking a reboot may fix it. The switch triggered and turned of I believe and after a few seconds there was no more LED and the switch no longer functioned. I removed the switch and put it back on the bench. There, it didn't light the LEDs or function at all. I looked on the network and didn't see it anymore either. So, I'm thinking the switch has either failed or I have broken it somehow. I know this is long but any help is appreciated.
@digiblurDIY have you had any issues with the switch toggling on/off constantly? I just flashed and installed an ST01, and I think I have option 3 in the diagrams you linked to. If I replace the first switch (closest to power), the light toggles on/off every half second, unless I change the dumb switch - in which case everything goes off. If I replace the switch furthest from the power, it toggles constantly, regardless of the other switch state. I also noticed that in either place, the switch doesn't seem to get on the wifi, so I think the power is switching the whole device on/off. Is there a way to change the behavior of the switch to NOT sense the load, or do you have any tips to try?
@@digiblurDIY yeah ... Switchmode1 5 ... I saw other people with the same thing. I set everything up using a power cord, so I know the template is set, the options are all correct, wifi connects ... But when I plug it in: ticktock ticktock. Maybe the wiring is bad, but the house was only built 2 years ago and the existing switches work. Are there any options to control that load sensing that you know?
@@digiblurDIY and I have been quite rude - thank you for your videos and site; I have been a big user over the years. Very much appreciate all your time and effort.
So what was the solution? I have the MJ in position 2 with live attached to load on the light. I have hooked up a standard 100 watt incandescant light so there should be lots of power flowing.
Great Video! In your permanent setup, how long is the 3 way wire connecting between the two switches? I have two switches in 3-way config about 30 ft away and when powered on, the switch becomes non responsive eg. pressing the switch does not trigger the relay. In esphome's log, I see the button being toggled repeatedly. Same behavior with Tasmota. 13:49:02][D][switch:045]: 'martinj_st01_02 TBD': Sending state ON [13:49:02][D][binary_sensor:033]: 'martinj_st01_02 TBD Button': Sending state OFF [13:49:02][D][binary_sensor:033]: 'martinj_st01_02 TBD Button': Sending state ON [13:49:02][D][switch:029]: 'martinj_st01_02 TBD' Toggling OFF. Wired the switch up on the bench about 1 foot apart works perfectly. The only thing I can think of is the length of the 3-way wire is causing erratic reading to determine what position is on in the circuit. Any ideas what could be causing the issue?
Mine is probably that long as well. Seems like with AC mains it would also support much further. Are you testing with different loads? As I have found various 3 way smart switches are picky on bulbs for detecting the load.
@@digiblurDIY Ya. I tested with LED bulbs and incandescent bulbs. Incandescent bulb was also used for bench testing. Both behaved the same (on/off in logs and non responsive) when wired in to the house. I'll probably go buy some 14/3 romex wire and test out my theory about the length being an issue. By chance do you have a backup of the original firmware? I want to rule out Tasmota or Esphome as a possible culprit. I doubt they are since it works fine on the bench.
@@digiblurDIY The button toggle loop starts right after I press the switch to turn it on or activate it in HA. On power on (turn on the breaker) it's not doing it. If it's already looping and I hit the reset button, esphome retain the on state so it starts looping right after it boots. The only way to stop it is to completely cut power to the switch. What I am really stuck on is why it works perfectly when I wired it up on my test bench and not in the walls. I have another 3 way location in the house that the switches are closer. i'll try installing the MJ switch there to test my theory that long 3 way wire can cause problem with the switch. Can you think of anything else I can try?
@@axiom000 I am having the same issue. When I toggle the "dumb switch" it starts the endless looping of on off commands, however if I flip the dumb switch back and just operate via HA and smartswitch only, it works perfectly fine.
I flashed Tasmota and installed one of these today. It works, but blinks the lights when transition into on or off when the wifi switch is used? I have double/triple checked the wiring. Flash went fine. The switch changes the lights, but always returns to the OFF state when looking at the Tasmota URL, it goes from OFF to ON to OFF but the lights do go on and off. Manual switch works without the lights blinking. Suggestions? Thanks
@@digiblurDIY I can't move it to the other end because there is no neutral in the other box. This is in my barn, it powers 8 LED bulbs, I can't just change the lights easily. I am going to try replacing the non-wifi 3W with a different switch since the one there now is one of those lighted switches. This might cause some phantom current that is fooling the Wifi switch??
I have the exact same problem. On one side the MJ-ST01, on the other side a dumb 3-way switch. Turn on then back off. Don't know if I wired it wrong but I tried reversing switch sides and the same problem.
@@Beteljuice Any luck? I'm having the same problem with mine. I triple checked the wiring and my smart switch goes on and back off. The only way it stays on is if the dumb switch is set to "on"
Having an odd problem with my ST01. When I wire it in a 3-way setup, it is switching the power to maintain always off. I think this was an earlier ST01 that needed a secondary non-wifi unit from MJ. Any ideas on how to make this work?
Ahh..sorry about that. Don't forget to turn it on too with the rule1 1 command rule1 on power1#state=0 do backlog ledpower1 0; ledpower2 1 endon on power1#state=1 do backlog ledpower1 1; ledpower2 0 endon
I have the switch setup in which the Martin Jerry 3-way (with Tasmota) is first, and the "dumb" switch is second, but when the "dumb" switch is used, the Martin Jerry switch isn't updating. The light is on and it is reporting that the power is "OFF". Any idea why that could be?
An issue with the light load at times I've heard as this switch can be picky. It usually toggles at power up to figure out the direction. You have the switchmode set?
I changed the layout to be a button instead of a switch, so I didn't change the switchMode. It didn't do the power up sequence where it tries to figure out the direction as you described.
Good catch. I switched it back to a switch, changed switchmode1 to 5, and now it registers the state change when the "dumb" switch is used. Thank you for your help! (and for your vids. They're extremely helpful!)
Bought 8 switches. All 8 flashed. 1 switch I could not add my wifi data to. I flashed it with Tasmatizer, Pyflasher and a few others. All said flashed, but could not enter wifi creds in tasmatizer, or termite. Any suggestions of what to try?
Not sure what you mean load wifi data? Usually just hit the flash button disconnect and the AP mode comes up. Really hard to brick it unless you shorted or applied too much power to them.
@@digiblurDIY For instance I flashed with Tasmatizer. Completed action. Disconnected gpio pin from ground, repowered. Used Tasmatizer to add ssid and password. Says it loaded 60 kb of data. When using check ip no address is listed is not recognized in router. Also used pyflasher on this one device. says it flashed, again repowered it, used termite to try to apply wifi data, but termite even after a comport refresh will not recognize the device.
Try just flashing and that's it and erase all data. Should be more than 60kb. Then disconnect it. If you use nodemcu pyflasher make sure you use DOUT. Does it have AP mode?
I liked the first Martin Jerry 3-way switch I tried, but I'm having a problem with the last one I installed. After turning the lights on, the power state in software and the LED on the switch keep alternating between ON and OFF, while the actual lights stay on solid. Once this starts, I can only turn the lights off using the non-smart switch. The button on the Martin Jerry switch, as well as sending commands from Home Assistant or the Tasmota console, do nothing. It's acting like the smart switch can't sense whether the lights are on or off. Any ideas on what might be causing this and how to correct it?
It's either down to wiring issues or the actual load not being sensed by the load sensor in the switch. When someone has issues like I this I always recommend to do a bench test first so you can see all the wiring and rule out the switch being an issue. A small piece of 14/3 and a 3 way switch is cheap to throw together a test setup.
@@digiblurDIY I received a reply from the Martin Jerry support folks after asking them the same question. They suggested that the problem lies with the length of wires between the smart switch and "dumb" switch (the travelers). And they've already got a fix previously planned out for what they are calling "flickering" (even though my lights are not flickering, only the state of the lights as reported by the switch). Oddly enough, their fix is to cut some of the pins off of the diode bridges in the switch. What appears to be effectively turning them into half wave rectifiers. I would love to see a schematic for the power section of the switch to see exactly what they are doing. I'll try this fix in the next day or so and report back.
@@aquacache9028 I'd love to know what you did and if the fix worked. I've had the same issue on all of my 3 way switches and I can guarantee it's not an issue of improper wiring at this point. Every 3 way I've installed encounters the same issue and I've tried putting it in the live box position, the slave box, changing the travelers, and everything in between. Short of flashing to tasmota I am close to dropping all of the 3 ways or going to another brand :S
@@executor485 Unfortunately, I was never able to get the Martin Jerry switch to work in this location. I tried it in both positions, as you did, and also tried multiple switches; 2 with Tasmota flashed and one straight out of the box. One of the switches with Tasmota on it had the pins of the diode bridges cut off, as was recommended by Martin Jerry tech support. All of the results were the same, though slightly different from what I reported originally. Now the light would change state 3 times every time I pushed the button. So if the light was off and I pushed the button, it would go ON-OFF-ON. The end result was the light being in the state that I wanted, but it flashed on the way there. Also, the state in software was always shown as OFF. In the end, I bought an Etekcity switch that Travis had a video on (ua-cam.com/video/hSul1V42fFM/v-deo.html) and it works fine. But only after making some slight changes to his setup. I still have some Martin Jerry 3-way switches that I'll eventually try in another location to see if the problem was with the wiring length, as suggested by tech support.
@@aquacache9028 update for you - I ended up changing out the standard 3 way switch for a 3 way dimmer AND a secondary dumb/slave 3 way dimmer switch. So, no more manual 3 way on one end, they're both MJs. This has eliminated the issue. I "think" it's because the primary sends the signal to the dummy and vice versa... which makes it wait for confirmation of what it's doing, thus, not freaking out and keeping the lights on via just the standard 3 way MJ switch. Hope that makes sense.
I haven't seen them on Aliexpress or other sites. Only other thing I have seen is bulk purchases by contacting their support. www.martinjerry.com/shop-2
I know I am commenting on a years old video now but I have tried flashing my new st01 switches and they don't seem to flash at all. I have a flashing jig that I know works as I use it on the single switch but I have yet to have it work on 3-way switches. If there are forum or somewhere I have missed to post about these things?
Always a Joy viewing your videos, the delivery is well pace and not rush. I learn a lot from the way present your information. Everything always on point. Just Great!
Thanks again for your input with these. I've had mine installed for a few weeks now and they have been solid. Glad to see that the LED's are controllable via rules, but i just kept them stock (blue off, red/orange on) and adjusted all my single poles to reflect that as well.
I went out on a limb and bought a box of the Wago connectors and I will never go back! Thank you!
Same here.. A few folks kept saying try them.. Try them.. When I finally did I was like wooooaahh! Never again will I use stupid wire nuts. Only regret I have is not switching earlier.
@@digiblurDIY I bought my first box online but found that I can by them in my Menard's stores so they might be available in other home improvement-type stores.
Got a pair for Christmas and was able to flash using Tuya Convert, for anyone who is interesting in OTA flashing.
Great video. When I went to download Tasmota, there were many new versions and all kinds of warnings about upgrade troubles. I ignored all warnings and downloaded at least 4 versions (up thru latest, v9.2.0) and each flashed just fine. I could not get MQTT to connect with any version until I realized I was using a "#" within my MQTT username, it seems some special characters are taboo! Now I need to find a WIFI switch that will function like a "slave" to my zwave "master". Thank you for excellent work.
I wouldn't say upgrade troubles unless you just haven't upgraded a device in a loooonggg time. Yes that # is a bad character to use in MQTT as it is kind of like the wildcard of * that you see a lot of others use.
@@digiblurDIY As a newbie to WIFI (coming from Vera/Zwave) I don't know what firmware is baked into the switches I just got from Amazon. So I am not sure how to know if I will brick it.
Another great video. Thank you for the education.
Thanks for your videos. They have been a huge help. Is there a way you can make a video on how you are wiring up the switches on your test bench with the Cliff Quicktest? I was confused on how to hook up the load and line (red and black) if I were using this kind of external setup for testing purposes.
Sounds like a good subject to cover indeed as bench testing a switch is always on my list. Helps remove a bit of frustration. Will definitely put this on the list. In the mean time feel free to hit me up on the discord link and I can walk you through it.
If you have both the "master" unit and "secondary" unit do you have to flash both units or just the master? Also how do you tell if the ESPchip on board has the favorable wifi or the RealTek?
model = STD02 (purchased 2022)
**Edit -- Excellent Video btw..!
I haven't used the two together before only used it with a dumb switch before. To see the chip you need to open the device.
Thanks for all the videos. Just going through some of the older ones like this. Question in regards to these smart switches. If Home Assistant or the WiFi is done, can you still control the lights from the switches shirtsleeves? Thanks.
Yes. They will work locally but I am not sure I would dress them?
Great video Travis!
Great video! Just curious, I’ve noticed that some of my switches would randomly start blinking. The switch still works but the LED continuously blinks. Any ideas why?
Are they losing MQTT or WiFi connection?
Based somewhat on this video *and* that Martin Jerry now offers the ST01 preflashed with Tasmota, I deployed 3 of them yesterday. They installed and worked perfectly. Well, not quite perfectly. For one of them, the default LED operation (green for on, none for off) isn't working quite right; the LED stays green all the time, though it does flicker off briefly when the switch toggles. I will sometimes notice that the LED has gone out and for one switch cycle, it works as expected, then sticks on again. I have tried everything I know of, most obviously duplicating settings from working switches, but all they have is "Tuya MCU" and no switch, relay or LED GPIO details, just a Tx and Rx, which is weird to me. Any ideas?
Yes the newer model TASMOTA preflashed 3 ways are all secondary TuyaMCU based, not really you can do to change stuff of how the switch works.
I need this thing here in Europe. Is there a equivalent product available ?
First off, this is an excellent video - thank you!!! Next, has anyone hooked this up to HomeBridge? I think I need to use the MQTT-Thing plugin, but this is my first project with Tasmota so I'm not sure what the configurations should look like. Specifically, the MQTT Topics - 1. Topic published by mqttthing to control on/off state. 2. Topic used to notify mqttthing of on/off state, 3. topic used to notify mqttthing of 'online' status. Thanks in advance!
Haven't used HomeBridge myself. Only used it with NodeRed and HomeAssistant myself.
@@digiblurDIY Okay, thanks. I think I just need to learn more about the basics of MQTT so I can better understand the methods. The get/set concepts is pretty straight forward, I just need to learn the syntax to make it all work via Homebridge. Again - great videos!
Good Video!! Is there a way to toggle light state if the dumb switch was momentary?
Thinking no at first but let me do a test first to see what it does.
hmm got up to the part with termite and then it didnt work. i was wondering if maybe the flash was bad so i tried to re do it and it wont even show up now
Love that there is now a good 3 way. Love my MJ switches so far. Do you know if these would work on a 4+ way?
I don't have any 4 ways to say so but I know on other 3 way switches people tested them in 4 way configs and swapped one of the three ways in the circuit without issue.
I just noticed it says on their listing it works with 4 way as well!
@@digiblurDIY Good to know! Planning on picking one up to see.
I have a bunch of these installed a s a 3 way and all are working fine. Now I want to install one as a 4 way. If I start the process with all the other switches as off when I press the button it clicks a few times and shows on in tasmota but clicks to off after a few seconds. If I start with the lights on (turned on from a plain switch) it works fine. Is there extar console commands I need. I used this rule1 on power1#state=0 do backlog ledpower1 0; ledpower2 1 endon on power1#state=1 do backlog ledpower1 1; ledpower2 0 endon and then rule1 1
No, all the load sensor stuff is handled internally. I found as long as your switchmode is set and such it should work. Otherwise you could be running into the interference issue some folks have been hit with.
will this work on home assistant?
Sure will. That's what I use it on.
Is there a way to control the brightness of the LED's built into the switch? It would be nice to dim the LED when the light is off.
You could set them as pwm but I believe if you set two PWM pins it would think it was a CW WW light.
Question, can this be configured to always have the relay on for wifi bulbs? The switches would act like a toggle to send mqtt commands to home assistant to control WiFi bulbs.
Yes. You could easily use the new setoption114 in this device case or you could just reassign the actual relay to another GPIO pin. I use two of those to control lamps and also kick off automations with long presses.
@@digiblurDIY awesome, and can the same be done for the dimmer switches?
I’ve flashed the dimmer with your .bin file and was thinking that since the pwm output is 0-3.3, make that a relay as well and the option114 should do both?
nice job, great video
could you do the same using ESPhome instead of Tasmota?
Absolutely.. It would work fine.
This might seem like a strange question, but does anyone know if it's possible to get 2 of the newer ST01's pre-flashed with Tasmota to work together, meaning to replace BOTH of the 3-way switches with ST01's and not just one of them? My thoughts/reasoning are to ensure that the 3-way behavior all works completely locally over the traveler wires, without a need for wifi at all, and still enables smart control over wifi in the event that is desired. Also to keep both switches looking the same (yes, vanity is a thing). I'm going to run the experiment myself later this week, but just mainly curious if anyone else has gone down this rabbit hole before me, lol.
The new models have a secondary MCU to flip back and forth, not sure if it will work but you never know until you try. I honestly would just do two single pole switches in a device group setup. digiblur.com/wiki/wiring-diagrams/tasmota-devgroups
Great video great product. But I need equivalent product compatible with our square plates and round holes here in Europe. :) If anyone knows anything
MJ's are back in the game ?...we had like Gosund and then etekcity
Etekcity is easier to flash of course but wow the MJ 3 way is impressive.
Just completed my build following your instructions, all works GREAT. I haven't installed in the wall yet but bench tested it and no issues. Thanks for doing these videos, makes dummies like me look good. I know there's docs on the Tasmota and I've gone through the commands before but it would be great if you can explain a little more on the GPIO mapping to the switch, button or relay.
Sure, that is in the books to do a groundup Tasmota refresher down to earth Tasmota video. Stay tuned!
Well strange development here, maybe someone here can help, if not I will post on Discord. I had successful on the bench with a 3 way setup but when I installed in the house the switch initially sorta worked. It powered up and there was a LED lit (Purple) and when I triggered the switch it turned the light off then on. When I hit it again, it turned off. I went to the other switches (Inside I have a 3-way then a 4-way then back to a 3-way switch setup in my kitchen. So flipping the 4-way or 3-way worked properly and didn't do a on/off/on sequence. Going back to MJ with the light OFF I clicked the switch and it went from on/off/on again. After a few times doing this, I hit the Reset button on the MJ thinking a reboot may fix it. The switch triggered and turned of I believe and after a few seconds there was no more LED and the switch no longer functioned. I removed the switch and put it back on the bench. There, it didn't light the LEDs or function at all. I looked on the network and didn't see it anymore either. So, I'm thinking the switch has either failed or I have broken it somehow. I know this is long but any help is appreciated.
@digiblurDIY have you had any issues with the switch toggling on/off constantly? I just flashed and installed an ST01, and I think I have option 3 in the diagrams you linked to. If I replace the first switch (closest to power), the light toggles on/off every half second, unless I change the dumb switch - in which case everything goes off. If I replace the switch furthest from the power, it toggles constantly, regardless of the other switch state. I also noticed that in either place, the switch doesn't seem to get on the wifi, so I think the power is switching the whole device on/off.
Is there a way to change the behavior of the switch to NOT sense the load, or do you have any tips to try?
You have the switchmode set? Otherwise there is a known issue in some cases it can't sense the load. Several of us have changed to device groups
@@digiblurDIY yeah ... Switchmode1 5 ... I saw other people with the same thing. I set everything up using a power cord, so I know the template is set, the options are all correct, wifi connects ... But when I plug it in: ticktock ticktock. Maybe the wiring is bad, but the house was only built 2 years ago and the existing switches work.
Are there any options to control that load sensing that you know?
@@digiblurDIY and I have been quite rude - thank you for your videos and site; I have been a big user over the years. Very much appreciate all your time and effort.
all good, not rude at all! Thanks! I'm not sure of any way to disable that as it was tied to the button from what I remember.
So what was the solution? I have the MJ in position 2 with live attached to load on the light. I have hooked up a standard 100 watt incandescant light so there should be lots of power flowing.
Today I use the Tuya convert to flash without soldering on this unit.
Yep, and Tuya convert is so nice! This video was done when Tuya Convert was blocked.
Do you have any recommendations for a cheaper 3way switch?
I have done the Moes and Etekcity 3 ways in videos.
Great Video! In your permanent setup, how long is the 3 way wire connecting between the two switches? I have two switches in 3-way config about 30 ft away and when powered on, the switch becomes non responsive eg. pressing the switch does not trigger the relay. In esphome's log, I see the button being toggled repeatedly. Same behavior with Tasmota.
13:49:02][D][switch:045]: 'martinj_st01_02 TBD': Sending state ON
[13:49:02][D][binary_sensor:033]: 'martinj_st01_02 TBD Button': Sending state OFF
[13:49:02][D][binary_sensor:033]: 'martinj_st01_02 TBD Button': Sending state ON
[13:49:02][D][switch:029]: 'martinj_st01_02 TBD' Toggling OFF.
Wired the switch up on the bench about 1 foot apart works perfectly. The only thing I can think of is the length of the 3-way wire is causing erratic reading to determine what position is on in the circuit. Any ideas what could be causing the issue?
Mine is probably that long as well. Seems like with AC mains it would also support much further. Are you testing with different loads? As I have found various 3 way smart switches are picky on bulbs for detecting the load.
@@digiblurDIY Ya. I tested with LED bulbs and incandescent bulbs. Incandescent bulb was also used for bench testing. Both behaved the same (on/off in logs and non responsive) when wired in to the house. I'll probably go buy some 14/3 romex wire and test out my theory about the length being an issue.
By chance do you have a backup of the original firmware? I want to rule out Tasmota or Esphome as a possible culprit. I doubt they are since it works fine on the bench.
Unfortunately no, the firmware is coded to the MAC ID on the switch and won't work. Are you seeing the button repeatedly all the time or just at boot?
@@digiblurDIY The button toggle loop starts right after I press the switch to turn it on or activate it in HA. On power on (turn on the breaker) it's not doing it. If it's already looping and I hit the reset button, esphome retain the on state so it starts looping right after it boots. The only way to stop it is to completely cut power to the switch.
What I am really stuck on is why it works perfectly when I wired it up on my test bench and not in the walls.
I have another 3 way location in the house that the switches are closer. i'll try installing the MJ switch there to test my theory that long 3 way wire can cause problem with the switch.
Can you think of anything else I can try?
@@axiom000 I am having the same issue. When I toggle the "dumb switch" it starts the endless looping of on off commands, however if I flip the dumb switch back and just operate via HA and smartswitch only, it works perfectly fine.
I flashed Tasmota and installed one of these today. It works, but blinks the lights when transition into on or off when the wifi switch is used? I have double/triple checked the wiring. Flash went fine. The switch changes the lights, but always returns to the OFF state when looking at the Tasmota URL, it goes from OFF to ON to OFF but the lights do go on and off. Manual switch works without the lights blinking. Suggestions? Thanks
That switch can be picky at times due to wiring and various lights used on it. What have you tried? Different lights? Moving it as the other switch?
@@digiblurDIY I can't move it to the other end because there is no neutral in the other box. This is in my barn, it powers 8 LED bulbs, I can't just change the lights easily. I am going to try replacing the non-wifi 3W with a different switch since the one there now is one of those lighted switches. This might cause some phantom current that is fooling the Wifi switch??
I replaced the non wifi switch with a non illuminated, no change.
I have the exact same problem. On one side the MJ-ST01, on the other side a dumb 3-way switch. Turn on then back off. Don't know if I wired it wrong but I tried reversing switch sides and the same problem.
@@Beteljuice
Any luck? I'm having the same problem with mine. I triple checked the wiring and my smart switch goes on and back off. The only way it stays on is if the dumb switch is set to "on"
Having an odd problem with my ST01. When I wire it in a 3-way setup, it is switching the power to maintain always off. I think this was an earlier ST01 that needed a secondary non-wifi unit from MJ. Any ideas on how to make this work?
I have only used it with it being the first in line and had power all the time and the secondary was a dumb switch.
@@digiblurDIY yeah, that's what I have too. ST01 DS Light. Traveler is what's swapping power. So weird.
@@juniordupont6880 Same issue here, weird thing is that it was working fine for quite some time.
Great video! Are the rules posted somewhere, because i don't see them. Again, thank you!
What rules?
@@digiblurDIY for the led control
rule1 on power1#state=0 do backlog ledpower1 0; ledpower2 1 endon on power1#state=1 do backlog ledpower1 1; ledpower2 0 endon
I think this is it.
Ahh..sorry about that. Don't forget to turn it on too with the rule1 1 command
rule1 on power1#state=0 do backlog ledpower1 0; ledpower2 1 endon on power1#state=1 do backlog ledpower1 1; ledpower2 0 endon
I have the switch setup in which the Martin Jerry 3-way (with Tasmota) is first, and the "dumb" switch is second, but when the "dumb" switch is used, the Martin Jerry switch isn't updating. The light is on and it is reporting that the power is "OFF". Any idea why that could be?
An issue with the light load at times I've heard as this switch can be picky. It usually toggles at power up to figure out the direction. You have the switchmode set?
I changed the layout to be a button instead of a switch, so I didn't change the switchMode. It didn't do the power up sequence where it tries to figure out the direction as you described.
I don't think it works as button.
Good catch. I switched it back to a switch, changed switchmode1 to 5, and now it registers the state change when the "dumb" switch is used. Thank you for your help! (and for your vids. They're extremely helpful!)
Bought 8 switches. All 8 flashed. 1 switch I could not add my wifi data to. I flashed it with Tasmatizer, Pyflasher and a few others. All said flashed, but could not enter wifi creds in tasmatizer, or termite. Any suggestions of what to try?
Did the AP mode come up on them?
@@digiblurDIY AP mode came up on all but one. All 8 did flash appropriately but the last one would not load the wifi data. Is it sort of bricked?
Not sure what you mean load wifi data? Usually just hit the flash button disconnect and the AP mode comes up. Really hard to brick it unless you shorted or applied too much power to them.
@@digiblurDIY For instance I flashed with Tasmatizer. Completed action. Disconnected gpio pin from ground, repowered. Used Tasmatizer to add ssid and password. Says it loaded 60 kb of data. When using check ip no address is listed is not recognized in router. Also used pyflasher on this one device. says it flashed, again repowered it, used termite to try to apply wifi data, but termite even after a comport refresh will not recognize the device.
Try just flashing and that's it and erase all data. Should be more than 60kb. Then disconnect it. If you use nodemcu pyflasher make sure you use DOUT. Does it have AP mode?
I liked the first Martin Jerry 3-way switch I tried, but I'm having a problem with the last one I installed. After turning the lights on, the power state in software and the LED on the switch keep alternating between ON and OFF, while the actual lights stay on solid. Once this starts, I can only turn the lights off using the non-smart switch. The button on the Martin Jerry switch, as well as sending commands from Home Assistant or the Tasmota console, do nothing.
It's acting like the smart switch can't sense whether the lights are on or off. Any ideas on what might be causing this and how to correct it?
It's either down to wiring issues or the actual load not being sensed by the load sensor in the switch. When someone has issues like I this I always recommend to do a bench test first so you can see all the wiring and rule out the switch being an issue. A small piece of 14/3 and a 3 way switch is cheap to throw together a test setup.
@@digiblurDIY I received a reply from the Martin Jerry support folks after asking them the same question. They suggested that the problem lies with the length of wires between the smart switch and "dumb" switch (the travelers). And they've already got a fix previously planned out for what they are calling "flickering" (even though my lights are not flickering, only the state of the lights as reported by the switch). Oddly enough, their fix is to cut some of the pins off of the diode bridges in the switch. What appears to be effectively turning them into half wave rectifiers. I would love to see a schematic for the power section of the switch to see exactly what they are doing.
I'll try this fix in the next day or so and report back.
@@aquacache9028 I'd love to know what you did and if the fix worked. I've had the same issue on all of my 3 way switches and I can guarantee it's not an issue of improper wiring at this point. Every 3 way I've installed encounters the same issue and I've tried putting it in the live box position, the slave box, changing the travelers, and everything in between. Short of flashing to tasmota I am close to dropping all of the 3 ways or going to another brand :S
@@executor485 Unfortunately, I was never able to get the Martin Jerry switch to work in this location. I tried it in both positions, as you did, and also tried multiple switches; 2 with Tasmota flashed and one straight out of the box. One of the switches with Tasmota on it had the pins of the diode bridges cut off, as was recommended by Martin Jerry tech support. All of the results were the same, though slightly different from what I reported originally. Now the light would change state 3 times every time I pushed the button. So if the light was off and I pushed the button, it would go ON-OFF-ON. The end result was the light being in the state that I wanted, but it flashed on the way there. Also, the state in software was always shown as OFF.
In the end, I bought an Etekcity switch that Travis had a video on (ua-cam.com/video/hSul1V42fFM/v-deo.html) and it works fine. But only after making some slight changes to his setup. I still have some Martin Jerry 3-way switches that I'll eventually try in another location to see if the problem was with the wiring length, as suggested by tech support.
@@aquacache9028 update for you - I ended up changing out the standard 3 way switch for a 3 way dimmer AND a secondary dumb/slave 3 way dimmer switch. So, no more manual 3 way on one end, they're both MJs. This has eliminated the issue. I "think" it's because the primary sends the signal to the dummy and vice versa... which makes it wait for confirmation of what it's doing, thus, not freaking out and keeping the lights on via just the standard 3 way MJ switch. Hope that makes sense.
Can anyone point to another seller like alixpress?
I haven't seen them on Aliexpress or other sites. Only other thing I have seen is bulk purchases by contacting their support. www.martinjerry.com/shop-2
I know I am commenting on a years old video now but I have tried flashing my new st01 switches and they don't seem to flash at all. I have a flashing jig that I know works as I use it on the single switch but I have yet to have it work on 3-way switches.
If there are forum or somewhere I have missed to post about these things?
Are they still tywe3s chips?
@@digiblurDIY They are still using the tywe3s. Both the single and 3-way switches.
Easy jig flashes then as no secondary MCU involved on those.
@@digiblurDIY The problem I have is that the it looks like it's about to flash then it looks like it resets. The S01 flashes fine. The ST01 doesn't
Bad hardware? I haven't heard of any issues flashing them.