(Climbing Analysis) Stop the Swing - 3 Ways to Negate a Barn Door
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
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Barn doors can sneak up on you. Here are 3 ways to negate them.
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The words on the thumbnail cover up your shorts 😂😂😂😂….I thought this was a whole new type of movement for climbers video😂😂😂😂
i thought he was going to try to stop something else from swinging
I think they call that type of swing a Foucault Pendulum
@@RM-xr8lq Hahahahahaha brilliant
No one's explained balanced to me like this. This is so eye-opening, I want to jump into my gym asap
Back Flag is something I just intuitively started using more and more over time and every time I am amazed how much it helps
this is fantastic timing
Man you are so pedagogical in your explanations. I love it.
So glad youtube recommend this. And very much appreciate the creators of the video. The information, narration, filming and visual aids were concise and easily digestible. I've never really understood when people mentioned "center of gravity" and it's been a factor in many things I enjoy besides bouldering. Now I feel like I have much more insight, thanks to this video. The visual aids overlayed on the climber were particularly helpful, for me.
I needed this so bad, I've been swinging hard on a V6 at my gym that I just can't stop.
For the move around the 3:00 mark, I've found that it's usually easier to get the left hand on the hold as fast as possible, yes you will barn door but just transfer that momentum into a back flag. The difference is that you won't have to use your right hand to support your entire weight while setting up the back flag; you have two hands and just need to control your momentum as you make the left hand move.
This is not always the case and the method shown in the video is sometimes better if it's a really desperate move, but in that case you will need to be extremely strong because all your weight is supported by one hand.
I like how you verbalize sum forces = 0 and sum torque = 0 for a body in equilibrium (and to stay there). Beyond that, nice demos of the techniques!
Really clear explanation of balance concepts. Solid video!
this is so insanely helpful!! thank you!!
Thanks for your sharing
If you want to understand barn doors, imo you should really be thinking about torque around the z (vertical) axis. Barn door = Nonzero sum of z-axis torques.
For example, if you have counterclockwise rotation (looking top-down) that you need to stop like in the video, the left leg back flag pushes against the wall generating clockwise torque and thus putting you in static equilibrium.
This also explains why with jugs you can pretty much put your feet anywhere - with your hands gripping around the hold your rear deltoids can pull against the pull, thus generating either direction of torque from any hand position - while with tiny crimps managing your footwork to prevent barn doors becomes much more important.
And instead of getting your right foot to the upper foothold, why wouldn't you cross using right foot the bottom hold, left to upper one, then flag with right foot to the right? (learning theory while not at gym, would like to know if this solution is good too)
it would be so cool if you had 3 dimensional graphics to show the force vectors... we need a big patreon donation lol
Even though most climber will have heard about the Barn Door, your explanation and comparisons make brilliant sense. Great job!
Could you perhaps soon shine some (new) light on body tension / footwork / movement in (steep)overhang climbing?
Much appreciated!
great vids man!
What gym is that?
What abput a drop knee ?
Couple moment barn door
0L23 more specifically, when your hand is farther away than your foot.
Disliked only showed 2 styles and promised 3
now the question is, how does Janja stop swings keke
she tough it up big time.
The flick
With da shouldah.
Gravity knows better and leaves her alone. You swing at the GOAT you best not miss.
@@MikePlus LOL
Great video. One aspect that comes up a lot is when releasing a heel hook into tension you can often change the heel to a toe first. This minimizes the maximum force you have to take by separating the move into two smaller moves. This can make holding the swing much easier overall. I think I use this at least once a week.
What if you switched your feet before moving the right hand up at 5:04? Would that negate the swing as well?
Yes I thought the same and would defo go that way
Yes I feel like he forgot to mention the most obvious and most common solution to the barn door: Foot swap.
@@Mike-oz4cv to me there should not even need foot swap as you can straight start using right foot to the bottom hold and left foot to the upper one, then flag with your right foot, looks the most natural to me looking at the problem.
Great explanation but I would argue the back flag often does count as a point of contact. You do not only shift your weight; you often actively push against the wall to prevent the barndoor from 'opening' - i.e. the the body still wants to peel away from the wall (i.e. you may not have shift weight sufficiently to change that) but it cannot, because your back flagging leg is in between.
I love your recent series of videos. Very nice in depth explanation! Thank you ☺️
bro ur at
pipeworks!! sick!
Great in depth movement analysis!!! 👏👏👏
The explanation is great, but I feel like the 2D explanation falls just a little bit short without taking the third direction (away/towards the wall) into account
I believe that being further away from the wall would barn door harder in pretty much any situation, and the same goes for climbing negative slopes.
We should stay close to the wall anyways, so that's just being picky, i guess haha
Yeah the B.O.S. explanations don't feel right. Like, "barn-dooring" happens the opposite way on a forward-sloped wall! Because it's really about center of gravity trying to get as low as possible, and swinging happens to achieve that. B.O.S. is a good rule-of-thumb for finding stability, but I think it misses the point for barn doors.
very interesting contents!!
does switching feet and doing a regular flag accomplish similar results to the back flag?
3 methods
1. Counter pressure
2. Back flag
3. Using body tension
I thought the center of gravity was higher for a guy
Hello, I think your channel has good content and you make this with the right intentions. However I feel often the most basic or straightforward solutions and movement patterns that are important for climbers, especially beginners is ignored in favor of more complicated or strenuous options which I find strange. In your beginning example you ommit to include the option to place left foot to the foothold furthest to the right to catch the following handhold with the left hand. Which would present the most basic principle of climbing; when moving right hand up, put right foot up first , moving left foot, then left hand up and so on, left left, right right, etc.. your options of the heel and backflag while also options are unnecessarily strenuous and are not the most energy efficient movement patterns for that particular sequence. And finding the move that saves you the most energy is one of the key elements to getting to higher grades. Not what looks good. I see climbers all the time getting stuck at v5/v6 level while at the same time they have badly ingrained movement patterns or poor basic movement understanding and efficiency.