I've been driving for 32 years and never blew an engine in about the 15 cars I've owned until this one. A couple of them went well over 200,000 miles and this one was 12 miles shy of 144,000 miles and blew on my way to work. Two and a half years ago my wife was driving it and said it was running rough and sounding funny. She took it to a local firestone and said there was no oil in it. They replaced four quarts and then she took it to the Kia dealer with 99,400 miles when it had the 100,000 mile warranty on it. They said they would have to do an oil consumption test on it and it would take it over the 100,000 mile warranty. A little bit later when it had about 101,000 miles we called Kia and they said the dealership never even logged that we were in and they denied us. Fast forward to two weeks ago and after adding oil over the past two years the engine failed but didn't stop running but had to pull off onto the side of the road on a very busy freeway. This was a 2014 Kia Sorento SX V6 which wasn't cheap. Needless to say, I will never own another Kia with that engine. I had it towed to my house and am contemplating whether to replace the engine for $7200 or not. I had one with the 3.5 liter engine in my 2011 that was so much better and was very powerful and never had any oil leaks or burning. The 3.3 was rated at more horsepower but didn't seem to be as responsive. I hardly had to push the gas pedal in the 2011 and in the 2014 I had to push the pedal a little harder. It seems like the pedal itself may have had tighter springs in it, which I know has nothing to do with the running of the engine. In the midst of her oil burning my wife was on the phone with a Kia rep and the rep asked her if she checks the oil every time she gets gas. My wife asked her, do you? My thought was you can do that with a $500 beater but not on a very expensive car. My wife told her that the oil light didn't come on and the lady's response was the oil light doesn't come on until the engine is blown. Poor engineering in my opinion. It will tell you if you lose a pound of air pressure in your tire but won't tell you when your oil is low until the engine blows. Never would I buy another Kia with a 3.3 liter engine.
You have all the reason why not to buy KIA again but I don’t understand why dealership don’t document your first visit concerning about oil consumption, I had 3.3l Sedona this year approaching 100k miles concerning loosing oil and tapping noise, I document every single visit and it’s a long process but KIA ended up replacing engine assembly under factory warranty in 103k miles in it.
@@WrenchingRyan it seemed like the dealership cut a lot of corners with both cars. When I had other issues it felt like they didn't want to deal with it.
Kia tries to put blame on you always for their seized engines . Got 2015 v6 3.5 @ 94K Kia doesn’t want anything do with me cos I am a second owner . That was my first Kia buy , & it’s leaving a very bad rating for Kia
I never remove the front end to pull them. I always drop out the bottom. Do you find you save a lot of time pulling them like that? Generally 1.3-1.5 I’m out by the bottom …
I gotta R&R a trany on a 13' v6 do you recommend dropping the engine with the trany or will I be able to pick it out with the engine in place? Thanks ahead
Hello CAR Laws Channel etc.!!! I imported Kia Sedona EX 2016 from USA to Europe at 2019 My engine is of course 3.3V6 G6DH. My car was a little hit from front. It was fixed and painted but I have problem with crankshaft seal (transsmision side), tell me it is possible to change this seal (simmering) with not pulling the engine out? Mechanic can pulling out only automatic transsmision? How long does it take to repair? Do you often repair the crankshaft seal? Is this a disadvantage of this motor? Next question (sorry) is about change valve cover (front side),it was little samage (broke, cracked) near valve chain and oil filler. Is this a difficult repair? Thanks for all, sorry for my english.
To performed rear end seal replacement you have to drop the transmission only, i can probably get the job done about 2 hours,I’ve done few on 4 cylinder engine, before you let the technician work on your car check the oil pressure switch first I’ve done few of them, the oil travel through the valley and look like your rear seal leaking.
I’m currently doing this job on my 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3l. I have the engine completely separated from the transmission but I can’t get the flex plate to clear the transmission bell housing. The front side of the engine hits the fender/frame before the flex plate clears the bell housing. Any suggestions? I don’t have a lift to drop it from the bottom.
just wanting to ask if the ac compressor and system had to be removed during the engine replacement? My mother had to have her engine replaced and when she got the vehicle back the ac was blowing hot, and they said it wasn't their fault and not their responsibility to recharge it and that the compressor might be bad. When before she had engine replaced the ac was working great.
Thank you for your answer. Yes, from where she bought it from, Dodge Kia dealership in Topeka ks. And it was paid by the company that forgot to put oil in after a oil change.
I’ve done few 3.3L engine but couldn’t find a way removing it without dealing with A/C system, probably the tech. Who works on your mothers car forgot to charge the A/C system, its only take few minutes to inject the Freon back.
With the machine you show did you remove the Freon from the ac lines? Curious just had short block replaced and they removed the engine twice . Now my ac doesn’t work. Checked it with a gauge and it was empty 🤷🏻♂️
3.3 head leak - head bolts pulled out. Car maintenanced by dealer. 119k single owner. No reason it should have had the bolts pull out. Bad casting and/or design flaw. The dealer knew the issue right away, seen it before. Still owe on the car and dealer said 10k on the engine swap. Seen these repaired using a Huhn tap/insert kit: wondering if it’s easier to pull the heads and work on the car without pulling the engine. Ever redo the bolt holes vs swapping out the engine?
I haven’t done redo the bolt holes, I think the cheapest way to do it is make sure your cylinder head are good and get your self a new engine block, yes you can remove both cylinder head with removing the engine assembly.
I can't get a straight answer from anyone on how to change a head gasket on my 3.3L engine. I've been told it's a complete engine removal, so I've been looking through UA-cam for ideas and some insight so I can determine if I'm being overcharged. I found your video and first of all, it's fascinating, 2nd, it's terrifying. lol. I'm looking at a HUGE expense. It's out of warranty and Kia is less than compassionate about the problem, although I'm discovering it's a common complaint for my model (2016 Sorenta, 6 cyl).
There is few different way to replace headgasket on 3.3L engine, you can work on headgasket without pulling the engine out, this is the teardown video please check it out. Thanks for watching ua-cam.com/video/0yLQ02e8EnM/v-deo.html
@@mikeallmon1 I been to 3 shops and people said a skipped tooth to bad cats LOL. Did my own tests and low compression in the front head. I'm just parting it out currently. I haven't pulled the valve cover, but have a feeling you're right.
My 2016 Sorento 2.4L is consuming oil at about a quart every 3ish weeks. I replaced the pcv and the valve cover gasket because it had hardened and was leaking. But that didn't solve the problem. What could this be? I know these engines have had numerous problems, and I've got the rod knock sensor installed for the lifetime warranty, but I don't see any other leaks anywhere and my driveway is spotless.
I am currently doing this job myself i have all the bolts holding the engine and transmission together out but i am unable to get the engine to seperate from the transmission. I can see the flywheel with a large gap but it just will not let go. Any suggestions?
So how long did it take? I just applied at a Kia dealership and they only want me to swap engines for this recall. The manager said I should be able to swap one a day but that doesn't seem possible.
2.4L and 3.3L engine are possible to swap it in a day but in this video I rebuilt the engine and took me 2 days that Im in it working but the car sat in the garage for months due to parts back order situation.
Look at all those KIA Sorentos going up and down in that shop. Is this a KIA dealership? If not, is that just a massive coincidence that all of the cars look like the same generation of KIA Sorentos being worked on simultaneously?
I’m about to pull the 3.3 out of a 13 Santa Fe (same thing). So it’s possible to do this without removing the transmission. Any tips I should know to help with that?
I've got a 16 Sorento 2.4l with a head gasket leaking. I dick with cars on occasion but not sure I want to mess with it. What kind of difficulty would I have?
@@WrenchingRyan Upon further inspection it's just the valve cover gasket that's leaking oil down the back of the engine. There is a pretty good tutorial video on UA-cam but I'm curious about taking off the high pressure line from the fuel pump. Is that line pressurized? Is there anything that I need to be cautious of there or can I just disconnect the lines and unbolt it no problem
@@EricStrobel09 Those line are pressurized, start the car then remove fuel pump fuse and wait until engine stall, do not re used two high pressure fuel pump bolt and fuel line, please watch this video to get an idea. It’s 2.4L engine but same difference.
I’m more comfortable pulling the engine out on FWD on AWD/4WD I’m dropping the engine off with transmission in it and yes both FWD and AWD can be done this way.
Still a good video man...and if the vehicle is older sometimes subframe Bolt's are seized solid and can open up a can of worms. So it's great to have another method to pull the engine. Good work buddy and mechanics gotta stick togather
@@chads8720 the way you dropped your comment I figured you also a tech, every time I work with AWD dropping the subframe with engine/transmission in it always my best option but on FWD for I don’t know reason I feel like I’m more efficient doing this way. Thanks buddy gotta stick together. Thanks again for watching the vids.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #30 ДВА В ОДНОМ [Один человек]• Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nrXy15orKhY/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been driving for 32 years and never blew an engine in about the 15 cars I've owned until this one. A couple of them went well over 200,000 miles and this one was 12 miles shy of 144,000 miles and blew on my way to work. Two and a half years ago my wife was driving it and said it was running rough and sounding funny. She took it to a local firestone and said there was no oil in it. They replaced four quarts and then she took it to the Kia dealer with 99,400 miles when it had the 100,000 mile warranty on it. They said they would have to do an oil consumption test on it and it would take it over the 100,000 mile warranty. A little bit later when it had about 101,000 miles we called Kia and they said the dealership never even logged that we were in and they denied us. Fast forward to two weeks ago and after adding oil over the past two years the engine failed but didn't stop running but had to pull off onto the side of the road on a very busy freeway. This was a 2014 Kia Sorento SX V6 which wasn't cheap. Needless to say, I will never own another Kia with that engine. I had it towed to my house and am contemplating whether to replace the engine for $7200 or not. I had one with the 3.5 liter engine in my 2011 that was so much better and was very powerful and never had any oil leaks or burning. The 3.3 was rated at more horsepower but didn't seem to be as responsive. I hardly had to push the gas pedal in the 2011 and in the 2014 I had to push the pedal a little harder. It seems like the pedal itself may have had tighter springs in it, which I know has nothing to do with the running of the engine. In the midst of her oil burning my wife was on the phone with a Kia rep and the rep asked her if she checks the oil every time she gets gas. My wife asked her, do you? My thought was you can do that with a $500 beater but not on a very expensive car. My wife told her that the oil light didn't come on and the lady's response was the oil light doesn't come on until the engine is blown. Poor engineering in my opinion. It will tell you if you lose a pound of air pressure in your tire but won't tell you when your oil is low until the engine blows. Never would I buy another Kia with a 3.3 liter engine.
You have all the reason why not to buy KIA again but I don’t understand why dealership don’t document your first visit concerning about oil consumption, I had 3.3l Sedona this year approaching 100k miles concerning loosing oil and tapping noise, I document every single visit and it’s a long process but KIA ended up replacing engine assembly under factory warranty in 103k miles in it.
@@WrenchingRyan it seemed like the dealership cut a lot of corners with both cars. When I had other issues it felt like they didn't want to deal with it.
3.3 is garb. 3.5 is the last decent one
@@ua7pyro591 I had the 3.5 that got rear ended. It was my favorite.
Kia tries to put blame on you always for their seized engines . Got 2015 v6 3.5 @ 94K
Kia doesn’t want anything do with me cos I am a second owner .
That was my first Kia buy , & it’s leaving a very bad rating for Kia
I never remove the front end to pull them. I always drop out the bottom. Do you find you save a lot of time pulling them like that?
Generally 1.3-1.5 I’m out by the bottom …
I drop out the bottom when dealing with 4WD, I felt like easier pull them up when working FWD.
Complete waste of time doing it that way fighting with things
I gotta R&R a trany on a 13' v6 do you recommend dropping the engine with the trany or will I be able to pick it out with the engine in place? Thanks ahead
Hello CAR Laws Channel etc.!!! I imported Kia Sedona EX 2016 from USA to Europe at 2019 My engine is of course 3.3V6 G6DH. My car was a little hit from front. It was fixed and painted but I have problem with crankshaft seal (transsmision side), tell me it is possible to change this seal (simmering) with not pulling the engine out? Mechanic can pulling out only automatic transsmision? How long does it take to repair? Do you often repair the crankshaft seal? Is this a disadvantage of this motor?
Next question (sorry) is about change valve cover (front side),it was little samage (broke, cracked) near valve chain and oil filler. Is this a difficult repair?
Thanks for all, sorry for my english.
To performed rear end seal replacement you have to drop the transmission only, i can probably get the job done about 2 hours,I’ve done few on 4 cylinder engine, before you let the technician work on your car check the oil pressure switch first I’ve done few of them, the oil travel through the valley and look like your rear seal leaking.
I’m currently doing this job on my 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3l. I have the engine completely separated from the transmission but I can’t get the flex plate to clear the transmission bell housing. The front side of the engine hits the fender/frame before the flex plate clears the bell housing. Any suggestions? I don’t have a lift to drop it from the bottom.
try to remove the crank pulley it will give you more room, make sure transmission is level, challenging but doable.
just wanting to ask if the ac compressor and system had to be removed during the engine replacement? My mother had to have her engine replaced and when she got the vehicle back the ac was blowing hot, and they said it wasn't their fault and not their responsibility to recharge it and that the compressor might be bad. When before she had engine replaced the ac was working great.
On 3.3L engine, yes the A/C system have to be remove to get the engine out, did she get the engine replaced from a dealership?
Thank you for your answer. Yes, from where she bought it from, Dodge Kia dealership in Topeka ks. And it was paid by the company that forgot to put oil in after a oil change.
I’ve done few 3.3L engine but couldn’t find a way removing it without dealing with A/C system, probably the tech. Who works on your mothers car forgot to charge the A/C system, its only take few minutes to inject the Freon back.
@@WrenchingRyan Thank you for all your feedback. Will definitely check back in with them. Again thank you.
@@jd-gn1iy No problem. Good luck.
This is a 2016, not a 2015. First noticed the air box being different, then front bumper. Shouldn't change much of the removal process though
Typo error? Hmmm… well like what you said the removal process is the same. Thanks for watching.
With the machine you show did you remove the Freon from the ac lines? Curious just had short block replaced and they removed the engine twice . Now my ac doesn’t work. Checked it with a gauge and it was empty 🤷🏻♂️
Yup Freon recovery is required to replace the engine with 3.3L in it. They probably forgot to charGe the A/C system.
@@WrenchingRyan appreciate it!! 👍🏼👍🏼 thank you for the quick response
3.3 head leak - head bolts pulled out. Car maintenanced by dealer. 119k single owner. No reason it should have had the bolts pull out. Bad casting and/or design flaw. The dealer knew the issue right away, seen it before. Still owe on the car and dealer said 10k on the engine swap. Seen these repaired using a Huhn tap/insert kit: wondering if it’s easier to pull the heads and work on the car without pulling the engine. Ever redo the bolt holes vs swapping out the engine?
I haven’t done redo the bolt holes, I think the cheapest way to do it is make sure your cylinder head are good and get your self a new engine block, yes you can remove both cylinder head with removing the engine assembly.
I can't get a straight answer from anyone on how to change a head gasket on my 3.3L engine. I've been told it's a complete engine removal, so I've been looking through UA-cam for ideas and some insight so I can determine if I'm being overcharged. I found your video and first of all, it's fascinating, 2nd, it's terrifying. lol. I'm looking at a HUGE expense. It's out of warranty and Kia is less than compassionate about the problem, although I'm discovering it's a common complaint for my model (2016 Sorenta, 6 cyl).
There is few different way to replace headgasket on 3.3L engine, you can work on headgasket without pulling the engine out, this is the teardown video please check it out. Thanks for watching ua-cam.com/video/0yLQ02e8EnM/v-deo.html
the threads are known for pulling out of the block for the head bolts. beware. I'm dealing with one now.
@@mikeallmon1 I been to 3 shops and people said a skipped tooth to bad cats LOL. Did my own tests and low compression in the front head. I'm just parting it out currently. I haven't pulled the valve cover, but have a feeling you're right.
My 2016 Sorento 2.4L is consuming oil at about a quart every 3ish weeks. I replaced the pcv and the valve cover gasket because it had hardened and was leaking. But that didn't solve the problem. What could this be? I know these engines have had numerous problems, and I've got the rod knock sensor installed for the lifetime warranty, but I don't see any other leaks anywhere and my driveway is spotless.
Try the BG product, add MOA every oil change. Does help a lot and your adding warranty on your engine. Thanks for watching.
I am currently doing this job myself i have all the bolts holding the engine and transmission together out but i am unable to get the engine to seperate from the transmission. I can see the flywheel with a large gap but it just will not let go. Any suggestions?
All torque converter bolt out? If so those two dowel guide might still holding up.
Yeah the bolts are out is there anything else on the back side of rhe engine besides the exhaust manifold? Is there just the one engine mount?
So how long did it take? I just applied at a Kia dealership and they only want me to swap engines for this recall. The manager said I should be able to swap one a day but that doesn't seem possible.
2.4L and 3.3L engine are possible to swap it in a day but in this video I rebuilt the engine and took me 2 days that Im in it working but the car sat in the garage for months due to parts back order situation.
Look at all those KIA Sorentos going up and down in that shop. Is this a KIA dealership? If not, is that just a massive coincidence that all of the cars look like the same generation of KIA Sorentos being worked on simultaneously?
This is a dealership, we don’t get much issue on 3.3L sorento engine, the other sorento you saw is 2.4L engine and getting a 60k miles service.
Great videos!! Isn't this a 2016-2018 Sorento rather than 2015? I have a 2017 and my co-worker has a 2015 and they are not the same.
Kia offer two engines for their sorento, 3.3L v6 which is in this video and 2.4L 4cylinder. Thanks for watching.
I’m about to pull the 3.3 out of a 13 Santa Fe (same thing). So it’s possible to do this without removing the transmission. Any tips I should know to help with that?
I've got a 16 Sorento 2.4l with a head gasket leaking. I dick with cars on occasion but not sure I want to mess with it. What kind of difficulty would I have?
Head gasket job is no joke, you have to have proper tools and information to perform this job. Whatever you decide good luck. Thanks for watching.
@@WrenchingRyan Upon further inspection it's just the valve cover gasket that's leaking oil down the back of the engine. There is a pretty good tutorial video on UA-cam but I'm curious about taking off the high pressure line from the fuel pump. Is that line pressurized? Is there anything that I need to be cautious of there or can I just disconnect the lines and unbolt it no problem
@@EricStrobel09 Those line are pressurized, start the car then remove fuel pump fuse and wait until engine stall, do not re used two high pressure fuel pump bolt and fuel line, please watch this video to get an idea. It’s 2.4L engine but same difference.
@@EricStrobel09 ua-cam.com/video/OJ0gP59wqi8/v-deo.html
can this be done to a 2018 Sorento
I’m more comfortable pulling the engine out on FWD on AWD/4WD I’m dropping the engine off with transmission in it and yes both FWD and AWD can be done this way.
Nic
How many housr is this job you know
Took me at least two hours to pull the engine out.
Just like a VW
Power plant drop way easier and quicker
I agreed. Thanks for watching.
Still a good video man...and if the vehicle is older sometimes subframe Bolt's are seized solid and can open up a can of worms. So it's great to have another method to pull the engine. Good work buddy and mechanics gotta stick togather
@@chads8720 the way you dropped your comment I figured you also a tech, every time I work with AWD dropping the subframe with engine/transmission in it always my best option but on FWD for I don’t know reason I feel like I’m more efficient doing this way. Thanks buddy gotta stick together. Thanks again for watching the vids.