Thoughts on this? Is this description a Frankenstein build? Each of the Nec Capacitors have their own extra 0.5mm Thermal pads and rear side of the Cell CPU has a 1mm thermal pad. Thermal paste was replaced with Corsair XTM50 for best performance And CPU and RSX was also delided with same paste, New thermal Pads were were also added.
Wanna buy it? $80, cash money. I never cared much for PS3 so I don't put much thought into it. I didn't take any measurements but it surely wasn't perfect. I like to get in and get out. It's backwards compatible and needs delided. I put CFW on it and powered it down since. My goal was to get it working. I should have put more care into it but I just can't care for these things. NSC on here loves these things.
Yeah, they're a pain in the ass. I would have delided it but I was short on thermal paste. I've since got more but haven't felt the ambition. I might revisit it eventually but for now it sits collecting dust.
@@androxilogin no, i meant, i thought those caps is not an SMD one, and just the tower looking one.. my chance for successfully replace those SMD caps is 0%
@@PinotNoir_ Oh! It's not soo bad. This was my first attempt and it turned out successful. Heat is a major factor in the removal process but after that it's not a big deal. You can even scratch the board to get a better ground rather than tilting the replacements. I was aware of this and should have done it that way but I decided to do it that way which just made it harder on myself. The way I see it is it's already dead, might as well give it a try.
@@androxilogin thanks man, i'll maybe use the tilting method because it looks easier and less scarier than scratching the board.. oh btw, can i use a normal soldering iron for putting those caps on the board? i don't have heatgun and i don't think it's worth it to buy a heatgun just for this 1 fix
@@PinotNoir_ the original capacitors are extremely difficult to remove even with heat. I wouldn't recommend trying without something you can get a good temp from. Also be sure to change the thermal paste. After lifting the heatsinks it's important to maintain an even contact. Tilting then is definitely more stressful, I found.
Sounds like your console is overheating. The solution could be a number of things from being too smothered without airflow to the need to delid and add new thermal paste. Keep in mind that deliding is not as simple as just finding where there's thermal paste and replacing it. You have to take those flat pads off of the chip and apply thermal paste underneath as well. Check out NSC Modz on here for some thorough tutorials.
I'm sorry- somehow I missed this comment for a week. After much research I found: [from listing title] Tantalum Capacitors SMD, 470 uF 6.3V 477J Type D Case 7343. I'd send you the exact link to the listing but the seller stopped selling them apparently. I got 25 for $18. After buying them I saw he later marked them down to $10. Oh well though! It was the cheapest I could find within the US at the time so it's still a win.
I know about this thermal paste dilemma and the "different methods of applying". I don't care about the pattern you used but why did you spread it? majority of that compound isn't going to make contact with the heatsink. It would make more sense to put thin globs around the whole IHS given that it is massive.
OCD. Also it is temporary. It also needed delidded which I was already aware of. If it wasn't making contact it would not boot. It's actually more consistent to put an 'X' and just clamp it down. It will fill the whole space on its own.
@@RonyIsaPony meh, that's a myth. If you smoosh it down with a piece of glass you'll find it's just as well. Like the old "bolt mod" GameStop was doing to 360s and cracking the die.
@@androxilogin It's not a myth lol. If you smoosh it down with a glass you will see more air from spreading it rather than just placing a glob. It's simple logic. If you spread, it is uneven. If you just glob it down, it will get pushed and guarantee contact on all thermal paste. Xbox 360 bolt mod is a terrible comparison. The pressure issue on the 360 was negligible compared to what the bolt mod was going to "achieve" . If you remove the X clamp that created more even distribution of pressure and used straight up bolts that are tightened, of course it's going to warp the board.
Also your console won't update because you have no bluray drive in it. If you can find out how to install CFW, you should be able to install CFW that doesn't require a blu ray drive to install. After that is done you can buy any blu ray drive from any compatible fat console, swap it in and remarry it to yours. Might be a long process and a learning curve but it is very much so possible with minimal spending.
Actually it wouldn't update because the firmware file was CFW without first installing the patch, the BluRay drive had nothing to do with it. Not sure where you got the idea there was anything wrong with the drive in the first place. This was an initial test to make sure it booted.
Yeah, but I don't use it. It still needed a delid at the point of making this video and I didn't have enough thermal paste so I just did it to do it, see it live again. I never cared for these things.
![[UA] Team Vitality проти NAVI | IEM Cologne 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wttO1zVRTC0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thoughts on this? Is this description a Frankenstein build?
Each of the Nec Capacitors have their own extra 0.5mm Thermal pads and rear side of the Cell CPU has a 1mm thermal pad.
Thermal paste was replaced with Corsair XTM50 for best performance And CPU and RSX was also delided with same paste, New thermal Pads were were also added.
Wanna buy it? $80, cash money.
I never cared much for PS3 so I don't put much thought into it. I didn't take any measurements but it surely wasn't perfect. I like to get in and get out. It's backwards compatible and needs delided.
I put CFW on it and powered it down since. My goal was to get it working. I should have put more care into it but I just can't care for these things. NSC on here loves these things.
Damn needs a deliding too but hey you got it going
Yeah, they're a pain in the ass. I would have delided it but I was short on thermal paste. I've since got more but haven't felt the ambition. I might revisit it eventually but for now it sits collecting dust.
Awesome
i thought it was those tower looking caps... now i don't have any chance to fix my ps3...
Oh that sucks. Just throw 'em back on if they still have their legs. Then continue on with the process.
@@androxilogin no, i meant, i thought those caps is not an SMD one, and just the tower looking one.. my chance for successfully replace those SMD caps is 0%
@@PinotNoir_ Oh! It's not soo bad. This was my first attempt and it turned out successful. Heat is a major factor in the removal process but after that it's not a big deal. You can even scratch the board to get a better ground rather than tilting the replacements. I was aware of this and should have done it that way but I decided to do it that way which just made it harder on myself. The way I see it is it's already dead, might as well give it a try.
@@androxilogin thanks man, i'll maybe use the tilting method because it looks easier and less scarier than scratching the board.. oh btw, can i use a normal soldering iron for putting those caps on the board? i don't have heatgun and i don't think it's worth it to buy a heatgun just for this 1 fix
@@PinotNoir_ the original capacitors are extremely difficult to remove even with heat. I wouldn't recommend trying without something you can get a good temp from. Also be sure to change the thermal paste. After lifting the heatsinks it's important to maintain an even contact. Tilting then is definitely more stressful, I found.
My PS3 automatically turn off while playing games and specially gran turismo 6 so by replacing it will it fix my PS3?
Sounds like your console is overheating. The solution could be a number of things from being too smothered without airflow to the need to delid and add new thermal paste. Keep in mind that deliding is not as simple as just finding where there's thermal paste and replacing it. You have to take those flat pads off of the chip and apply thermal paste underneath as well. Check out NSC Modz on here for some thorough tutorials.
What type of capacitor did you use?
I'm sorry- somehow I missed this comment for a week. After much research I found: [from listing title] Tantalum Capacitors SMD, 470 uF 6.3V 477J Type D Case 7343. I'd send you the exact link to the listing but the seller stopped selling them apparently. I got 25 for $18. After buying them I saw he later marked them down to $10. Oh well though! It was the cheapest I could find within the US at the time so it's still a win.
I know about this thermal paste dilemma and the "different methods of applying". I don't care about the pattern you used but why did you spread it? majority of that compound isn't going to make contact with the heatsink. It would make more sense to put thin globs around the whole IHS given that it is massive.
OCD. Also it is temporary. It also needed delidded which I was already aware of. If it wasn't making contact it would not boot. It's actually more consistent to put an 'X' and just clamp it down. It will fill the whole space on its own.
@@androxilogin It is making contact just not nearly as good contact if you didn't spread the paste.
@@RonyIsaPony meh, that's a myth. If you smoosh it down with a piece of glass you'll find it's just as well. Like the old "bolt mod" GameStop was doing to 360s and cracking the die.
@@androxilogin It's not a myth lol. If you smoosh it down with a glass you will see more air from spreading it rather than just placing a glob. It's simple logic. If you spread, it is uneven. If you just glob it down, it will get pushed and guarantee contact on all thermal paste. Xbox 360 bolt mod is a terrible comparison. The pressure issue on the 360 was negligible compared to what the bolt mod was going to "achieve" . If you remove the X clamp that created more even distribution of pressure and used straight up bolts that are tightened, of course it's going to warp the board.
@@RonyIsaPony It's crazy how everyone's an expert online.
Also your console won't update because you have no bluray drive in it. If you can find out how to install CFW, you should be able to install CFW that doesn't require a blu ray drive to install. After that is done you can buy any blu ray drive from any compatible fat console, swap it in and remarry it to yours. Might be a long process and a learning curve but it is very much so possible with minimal spending.
Actually it wouldn't update because the firmware file was CFW without first installing the patch, the BluRay drive had nothing to do with it. Not sure where you got the idea there was anything wrong with the drive in the first place. This was an initial test to make sure it booted.
@@androxilogin Oh my bad. I just watched back and saw the blu ray drive. I assumed there wasn't a blu ray drive because you tested it without it.
Does it still work?
Yeah, but I don't use it. It still needed a delid at the point of making this video and I didn't have enough thermal paste so I just did it to do it, see it live again. I never cared for these things.
@@androxilogin oh ok, thanks for the answer!