Installing Zerk Grease Fitting On Lower Ball Joint Testing And Lubrication Hyundai Santa Fe
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- Опубліковано 10 сер 2016
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Last update 01/18/19
Installing Zerk Grease Fitting On Lower Ball Joint Testing And Lubrication Hyundai Santa Fe - Навчання та стиль
stiff ball joint is exactly what you want when you buy one, this is an indication that it is good.
Nice job Richard, not flaming you here, just some food for thought. The biggest problem withthis method is everytime you drill, there are shavings going into the ball joint and sticking to the grease in there, you can't blow those out, although some may come out, Id say compressed air would just push the other shavings in deeper. When you tap you should of filled up the gaps between the tap teeth with same grease you are injecting into the ball, the gaps between the tap teeth are intended to be filled with grease to catch the shavings and to keep shavings from getting between the tap teeth and you new threads and causing damage to those new threads.
You did flush it, but I would recommend just take off the boot as its a simple thing to do and that way you can super flush out all those shavings that are in there. Keep the boot on, the grease is harder to get out and thus the shavings and the shavings may stick to the side of the boot. with boot off and a 3 flushes or so your ball join will probably be near clean of any shavings.
Just one more thought, although you measured the static clearance of the ball from the top, that changes under dynamic load, how much I sure wouldn't know but physics says it has to. I don't know if the pre made greaseable BJ's are just what you did or fact in some additional bumper room?
Just a thought to improve on your excellent work and instructional video. -D
each time you use a new drill bit you introduce more shavings into the ball joint unless you use grease but it's advisable to just use one drill bit, but you want to put grease on the drill bit to catch as much shavings as possible
Thanks. They are still working great. I will have to lube them again soon. All the best.
Having been in the military responsible as a terrain vehicle driver, the vehicles were equipped with grease nipples for the vehicle to be long term functional.
Earlier days, even consumer vehicles were equipped with these. But I guess that doesn't render any money to spare parts manufacturers.
Good job!
As previously mentioned, the shavings from the drilling and drill bits might be an issue.
Thank you so much for your service Sir. I did not have any issue with the shavings. You could blow it out with compressed air but still no guaranty that it will clear them all. I figure what is left is very small. I use nothing but Moog product now as I found they are so superior to the regular no name stuff and they come ready to be greased with the nipple. They last a very long time (if you grease them regularly) every oil change for me.
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Yeah, shavings are a bit worrying but high air pressure “rinse” remedies this somewhat.
If ball and suspension is both metal I would think it would be good nonetheless as long as you yearly relubricate the joint.
The Santa Fe I did this for STILL has the same lower ball joints today and they are still tight. So as far as this modification goes I would have to say it worked. Thanks again.
If you put a little grease on the drill bit the filings will attach to themselves to the grease preventing them from getting inside the ball joint.
Also, if possible, always buy greaseable ball joints when replacing non-greaseable joints.
Ball joints that are greased on a regular basis rarely wear out.
I was also thinking attach a strong little magnet to the bit Amazon(paid): amzn.to/3Oohu5b and drill it out using that too. Thank you so much for watching, commenting, the valuable feedback and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
A good video covering most things. My worry is there seemed little consideration of the metal chips falling into the top of the ball joint during drilling or tapping.
you mean the drill chippings will go inside the ball joint. This is a concern
maybe a strong neodymium magnet may help ..
Thank you very much, Have never used a tap before. Changing out zerk fitting on A arms on UTV . Great job, Very informative.
You're most welcome. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
this video deserves millions of views it has infinitely valuable knowledge.
You're most welcome. Comments like this make my DAY! 😁️ I'm glad to know I could help you and that you got value from my work here. Thank you for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Good video very helpful. I don't know which im more worried about not greasing them or the metal shavings from drilling
Excellent video, thank you! Just thought if some metal shaving will get inside while drilling and taping?
Great video and very good information!! Thanks for your help !!👍🏽
very good video thank you just bought complete suspension for my thunderbird no fittings but there will be thanks
You are most welcome. I am glad to know I could help you. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Use a magnet first on the drill bit to magnetize, then close to the hole when drilling and to clean
How was it putting it back through the control arm. It looks like it would bind easier and cause the boot not to make it through the housing?
Great tapping info..thanks!
Great video - thanks for making it!
You're most welcome. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
I like that you took the ball joint apart. I have ball joints that should not have gone bad so soon and have wondered if there was any grease in them from the start. But. Will the shavings from the drilling and tapping get inside and do any damage? Great video
Great video 👍 thank you for your effort
You're most welcome. I'm glad and happy to know I could help you. Thank you for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Use a magnet to remove shavings. I also noticed that when you pumped the grease in, it looked exactly as it did when you looked at the original, with the dry spots. Additionally....shouldn't there be a small hole to allow for the replacing of grease? That way you pump in new grease and old grease is squeezed out of the hole. Otherwise, how do you regrease?
The grease gets pushed out around the seal on the ball. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
If the ball joint is sealed...
The Overflow grease and pressure,
where does it go?
Excellent video, one recommendation I also put a plastic cover over the end of the zerk fitting to protect the fitting. If you do that the zerk fitting will always take grease and will not become plugged over time.
Thanks. I know they make them from rubber too. Living in Texas it's not that big a concern but in the northern regions I could understand why you would want to. Thanks.
@aleon1018 The brake bleeders rust from brake fluid sitting in them from the last time they were bled. Last few years I've been putting the hose of a brake cleaner can all the way down the bleeder hole and blasting the brake fluid out. Haven't had any sticking/rusting issues since.
good content, thanks for taking the time to explain the process. however i think the video could have easily been 5 minutes long without missing anything.
The drill shavings won't hurt anything...
Rock on, good video, thank you!
Excellent!
Thank you for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
It’s “dry” because you haven’t installed them yet! Once they’re installed, the pressure will distribute the greese into the ball socket.
The reason it’s stiff is because it is designed for a specific load! If it were easy to move around, they wouldn’t function.
You realize because of those clips your new zerk are worthless. The clips prohibit the greese from migrating out of the dust cover. The entire point of having greesable ball joints is so you add new greese and push the old worn dirty greese out.
Those clips won’t let the old greese escape. Eventually you’ll have too much greese and pressure in the dust cover and the dust cover will fail.
Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Drilling with the proper drill bit once will result in less metal inside than going up in steps. Putting grease on the tap will reduce the amount of metal that drops into the joint because much of the chips will stick to the grease.
Thank you very much for the great feedback. I appreciate it and I am sure other viewers will too. All the best.
Great video. Was thinking of doing this on my ATV. Can't find a good tool to remove/reinstall the ball joints, and they are pretty easily accessible. Watched your video to see how thick those top cups are. I think you may have overfilled them a little bit with grease :). I am thinking a shop vac would have worked well to remove any shavings.
The overage on the grease will squeeze out. These are still working for me today. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
it will be even more awesome to add your mod for $6 (the cost of the fittings) instead of the $100 worth of ball joints and the labor/custom tools to install them!
congrats, your bushings will last longer than the engine
I hope so! LOL So far both continue to serve me well. The 3.5L seems like a solid engine so far. I use synthetic and change it often. Thank you so much for commenting and watching. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
3/8 pre drill then 1/4 28 tapered tap to start then bottoming tap and that's it?
Awesome. Thanks.
no need to tap for zerk fittings, they are self tapping. must have correct diameter hole.
excellent vid Richy...instead of taking thread off the grease fitting (if its too long) just add a rubber o-ring (various thicknesses can be had ) so you can experiment or even plain washer(s)....thats if clearance ain't an issue
Thank you very much, I would think an O-ring would be too soft for this application but a plain washer will do. All the best.
Great video. Thanks a ton for posting this!
You are most welcome. Glad I could help. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Gracias por explicarnos
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The grease will spread once the ball joint starts moving. No worry here, the part was fabricated and assembled most likely as per specs.
Thank u for the clean finger nails!!!!!!!!!!?
Thank you so much for commenting, watching and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Strong vacuum sounds like better way than compressed air.
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I stick a small neodymiun (super strong) magnet on the bit down close, a quarter inch or so, from the the bit end. It catches everything. Metal chips and dust. Nothing gets into the hole.
next time you go drilling into something get some rare earth magnets and sit one each side of the hole before you start drilling turn it upside down after a little bit pull off the magnets and most of the shavings should shake out. get a tap wrench they are cheap.
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Can I just fill with wheel bearing grease?
Any grease is better than no grease
The purpose of a grease fitting is so that you can REPLACE the lubricant. The metal clamps holding the boot on are to seal the joint so that the internal lubricant can't get out and also so contaminants can't get in. If you attempt to add grease to a sealed joint the boot will burst before you are able to REPLACE the grease. You want a joint WITHOUT the upper clamp so that you can pump in enough grease to not only REPLACE the lubricant, but also to pump any contaminants and wear particles OUT of the joint.
Thank you for watching, commenting, the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
I installed one on my angle grinder
You drilled and drilled again dont you think a lot of metal shaving fell inside with the grease ? if your going to buy new ball joints just buy them with zerk fitting all ready installed
Unfortunately these days any joints with fittings already installed are starting to become more and more rare. Even the high dollar parts no longer have the precious fittings.
Should have used a rare earth magnet on the taps. You literally drove metal chips into the ball joint and then used compressed air which would have pushed them further into the grease.
Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Could you move the joint any easier after greasing, because new joints are very stiff you, usually can`t move them by hand, could what you`ve done be a safety issue .
I could not move it after the application of the grease either. It was just as stiff. I didn't want to mar the mating surfaces with my tools to test it. I am sure it will be fine once I mount it. As far as safety goes I don't have any concerns as you can buy this exact same ball joint with the grease fitting (for a much higher price). They call this joint without the grease fitting "Non Grease-able" all I have done here is to make it grease-able. I would argue that I have actually made it a safer part as I am going to regularly look at the part when I grease it (every oil change) and will know more quickly when the boot is damaged and or the joint is beginning to fail. Most people will only check them when they start making noise or get their car safety checked. I have seen people ignore the signs that their ball joint was failing (noise, clunking, erratic steering etc.) and see them on the side of the road with a wheel pointing in the wrong direction calling a tow truck on their cell phone. I am changing mine primarily because I want to tighten up my suspension. I will be making a video of the replacement of the ball joint in the near future as well as many other suspension components which I may also modify with grease fittings. BTW the 4X4 rock crawlers dunebuggybroker.com/for-sale/rock-crawlers-4x4-jeeps-and-monster-trucks/01.jpg around here generally buy the grease-able joints for all their suspension components. I doubt that I will be converting the Santa Fe into a 4X4 rock crawler any time soon but I may do some suspension modifications in the future. Thanks again.
What we get on our annual government MOT test , is if a component is worn we get an advisiory that the part is worn but not dangerous, it`s a stiff test they go over everthing. ive just had one on the BMW rear anti roll bar bushes worn, half hour job easy, BMW tourers are noted for weak back ends, spring break, roll bars etc.
Usually when the OEM has weak parts the after market manufacturers roll out some heavier duty parts to fix the problem. Are you considering after market solutions for the rear end?
Richard Lloyd Yes the bushes will be after market, the rear spring that broke was raplaced under extended warranty by BMW, they advised only the broken one was needed to be replaced, no need to do the pair.
It's funny how efficient they are when they are doing warranty work and how you have to replace both of them when you are paying for them. LOL. Excuse the sarcasm. Is the rear end level?
@14:40, you keep putting the bit in and out of the hole you just drilled, thusly ,pushing more pieces of metal in the hole , why are you doing this?
I didn't have much problem with it as the grease I pumped into it cleared the debris. Still working great on the car today. Thank you so much for commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Was it full of grease from package?
Very informative. But inserting grease will put too much pressure in the joint boot which will lead to shorten its life..
And hammering on the joint will not be possible because of greae inserting cap..😅
You're most welcome. Thank you so much for watching, commenting, the valuable feedback and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
@@richardlloydusa are you still having the car with these improved ball joints?. Still good?. I assume 50,000km done by these ball joint.
If you are doing this again for another car how about fitting one ball joint with grease nipple. For the other ball joint drip in 2ml 75w90 differential oil before closing up the rubber boot without grease nipple. 🤔🤔🤔
You introduced enough metal shavings into that joint to make the zerk not worth it. Normally you REVERSE drill than clean the old grease out with the shavings and use threadlocker on the zerk.
Thanks. They are still working well today. All the best.
rocket surgeon in the room
i thought that too, but figured the shavings would be too big to fit between the ball and the socket, and thus unlikely to cause any damage. i do think mabey flooding it out with some brake cleaner before blowing it out would be a good idea however.
i was thinking the same thing...i would drill that upside down if posible...so that all the shavings will fall ..then use some grease on the drill bit or maybe attach a magnet to the drill...
Y cant put break cleaner on rubber it will degrade how qbout a magnet l. I thought greeseing the drill bit catchrs shavings
10 different drill bits for a 7/32 hole lmao
Still on there today. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
ball joints are always stiff it's so it does not spin while you put on the crown nut. dont grind the threaded end of the grease fitting too much or the spring and ball will come out
Thank you so much for watching, commenting, the valuable feedback and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
@@richardlloydusa also checkout RockAuto for inexpensive auto parts
Will do. Thanks again. All the best.👍😀
You don't need to use teflon tape on a tapered thread.
Agreed for this application, but don't agree for anything under pressure. That is why all NPT threads in plumbing use either tape or pipe sealant.
nagyon szep munka de az ido az penz !!! es a tus megoldas sokkal gyorsabb de ha ismetelten zsirzod mindig ugya ott hasznalt a tut ahol elotte !!! ok
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and cut the thread? you got a ton of shavings inside, including the burr that fell when you tapped. When installing the zerk, no need to cut the thread, they are self tapping. But still, burr material falls in.
It’s gonna burst as soon as the car gets on the ground. Fill after the weight of the car is on the suspension
They did not burst when the weight of the vehicle was placed on them. They are still working today. There is not that much play in the ball joint. Thank you so much for commenting and watching. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
PS, what i mean is, the manufactures warranty being void in the event of a failure.
At the price of this part ($14) the warranty is really not that great a factor for me especially when you consider shipping and your time but for sure if you modify the part the manufacturer will say too bad for you every time. I am betting that my modification will extend the part's lifetime.
Im interested to see the old ones when you replace them, if they are the origional ones 128 thou is not bad.
Unfortunately I have only owned it for the last 6 months so I have no idea if they are original or not but if they lasted 128K that would be more than acceptable to me. We will see when I extract them. I am planning on doing the job tomorrow. All the best.
Its suppose to be stiff if its loose its no good
There is this thing called editing
Maybe the government should make a law that ball joints must come with grease nipple or at least come with a screw in thread.
Yang merasa jadi mahluk +62 silahkan like dan comennya
I believe you have put too much grease into that fitting. You are not allowing for expansion, so the boot may rupture sooner than it would have, allowing contaminents to get in!
Way over greased......the first mistake made by lube techs and mechanics coast to coast.
PS if you are doing the work on a drill press out of the car you may as well remove the boots and throw them in solvent to remove the factory grease then when you drill them you can blow out the metal chips with a blow gun or spray can solvent and by removing the original grease prevent mixing of two different brands of grease which may or may not be compatible with each other.
Retired ASE certified master tech.
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