Hi Paul, I’m a professional sharpener as well. I’ve been sharpening for 40 years, 30 years professionally. I recently discovered your channel and subscribed because I really enjoy your content and honest presentation. Great job!
Thanks it’s a nice tool if I can find a smaller drive wheel that works on it to run Scotch Bright Belts I’ll be really really happy! So far Im thrilled with it.
@@ALXSHARPEN I also ordered an Eastwood 1x42 two spd. I think they will go good with my AMK-75 version 2 which is a 1x42 & 2x42 guided knife sharpener that uses a Tormek knife tool rest.
@@dougepalmerchopchop It looks like it's the same product. 90% of this stuff all comes from the same factories in China .Most are willing to make things for anyone and put your name on it. I bet the Bucktool and Eastwood are the same. You can get different variations from china if you ask so if you want a variable speed and are willing to buy enough units they will make it with your name on it. If the Chinese own the patent they will sell to anyone and put any name on it. I use to sell camera gear and saw this a lot in tripods. I could get ones exactly the same as some big name companies because the Chinese owned the patent and they would sell me the same thing with my company name on it and would even customize the colors. In the 1x30 sanders you see this all the time Harbor Freight , Grissly, EX ELECTRONIX EXPRESS ,Central Machinery are all the same multiple people selling the same product under different names but when you get them side by side you see it's exactly the same thing
120 Cubitron, A30 Trizact, A15, Trizact get them from Cliff Curry his link is at the top of my channel in the links list. I also got a nice 2x42 leather strop from cliff
Might be a dumb question but why not just take off the wheel and entire black arm on the right side and mount that to the smaller motor? Maybe custom plate to it?
I thought that but couldn’t find a way to do it I also thought that maybe I could hook it on a different grinder that was variable speed but it attaches to the outer case of the grinder and it’s also what makes it easier to adjust the belt side angle from flat to upright . So the arbor coupling was the easiest solution that I could come up with without having to make major changes to the Bucktool also, doing it this way gave me the ability to still use the Bucktool motor if I wanted to use it. Losing the grinder side for me wasn’t and issue Because I have plenty of grinders in my shop
Not in a way I could figure out you can detach the belt side but the Bucktool grinder case is designed to have the belt attach to it. Also all the brushless motors I have seen are 15mm arbors and the tool Is 1/2 inch or 12.7mm so the wheel won’t fit.
I had considered using a variable speed grinder and swapping it for the Bucktool motor and use just the Case but it wasn’t a match up with the variable speed grinder I had available
Most of these were designed with knife making in mind not sharpening so big fast motors for stock removal. For sharpening slower is always better for controlling heat, and the work piece so if you're going to use the stock motor for sharpening don't linger you will have to use fast strokes and that's not always easy for people. By making mine Variable speed it lets me have far more control over the work piece and the heat. Also why sharpeners like to convert 1x30s or just buy a variable speed unit.
@@robertmunguia250 mine didn't have enough clearance Cliff just cut away metal to make it fit. He has a video on it . I ordered a custom wheel. Cliffs method is much less expensive than what i did
For sharpening it's to fast and only goes one direction fine for knife making but by converting it to variable speed and running both directions it can sharpen edge leading or trailing and can do much more. I also added custom wheels so it can run Scotch Brite belts
I removed the springs and sometimes some of the motors may need a little adjustment to get them to stay but most work perfectly after the springs are removed one of my 1x30 I had to do a little work to the control but normally once you pull the springs off you should be good
I'm way too ADHD to watch this again and see if i missed an important detai, but why are you attaching a smaller motor to run a machine that already has a motor? I see at the end it comes with a variable frequency drive, but you can build one for the existing universal AC motor with technically as few as two electronic components. Like literally a burly, macho TRIAC, like a transistor but for AC, rated for continous 600v and 20A would be sufficient for this job. Add a variable resistor. Technically that would work. That's a two component speed controller you can wire in to one of the two wires going into the machine. In real life, we would build a slightly more complex TRIAC/DIAC circuit. This isn't even complex electriconics nerd shit. It's simple power electronics. Incorporate some back EMF protection and some circuit protection- this is a dimmer circuit. It just chops up the AC current and only lets some of it through. Sewing machine foot controls were built this way for years, actually a lot of them just use the simple TRIAC/thyristor+variable resistor circuit. Now they use more modern DC electronics, VFD drive. This is a crazy solution, what you've done here. You can also buy a motor speed controller unit that will work for this.
There is no motor speed controller that will work with this kind of motor and not cause a problem or it will have no torque. I tried a router control they do not work for this and you are also wrong on the dimmer control they only work on some types of motors many others have tried fan dimmers. Also as I said in the video I wanted to still be able to use the original motor if I needed the high speed the Bucktool motor runs at. This has been working great for me for some time. You do realise this is a sewing machine motor like you mention in your second paragraph. You say I am wrong but then you say well it's like a sewing machine motor the thing I actually used to get this machine to do what I want it to do which is to have full variable speed and go both directions. Anyway it sounds like you know or at least think you know a lot about electronics, but many have tried to make the motors on Harbor Freight Sanders variable speed and go in forward and reverse and other similar tools. If it were easy it would have been done long ago I have not seen it done. So why not go make it since you seem to know the secret and share it in a video and tell us all where to get the parts and how it's done. Once you do let me know. I will be happy to promote your video and channel. I do find it interesting that those like you who love to be very critical of others never have a video or make one showing how to do what they say is not correct. I will be anxiously awaiting your first UA-cam video Evan.
Hi Paul, I’m a professional sharpener as well. I’ve been sharpening for 40 years, 30 years professionally. I recently discovered your channel and subscribed because I really enjoy your content and honest presentation. Great job!
you should check out the guild of professional sharpeners members.guildofsharpeners.org/share/aeqXqAOblvmmrqjI?
Great video. I ordered one of those 2x42 bucktool last week. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks it’s a nice tool if I can find a smaller drive wheel that works on it to run Scotch Bright Belts I’ll be really really happy! So far Im thrilled with it.
@@ALXSHARPEN I also ordered an Eastwood 1x42 two spd. I think they will go good with my AMK-75 version 2 which is a 1x42 & 2x42 guided knife sharpener that uses a Tormek knife tool rest.
@@ALXSHARPEN check origin blade maker for drive wheel maybe
@@dougepalmerchopchop It looks like it's the same product. 90% of this stuff all comes from the same factories in China .Most are willing to make things for anyone and put your name on it. I bet the Bucktool and Eastwood are the same. You can get different variations from china if you ask so if you want a variable speed and are willing to buy enough units they will make it with your name on it. If the Chinese own the patent they will sell to anyone and put any name on it. I use to sell camera gear and saw this a lot in tripods. I could get ones exactly the same as some big name companies because the Chinese owned the patent and they would sell me the same thing with my company name on it and would even customize the colors. In the 1x30 sanders you see this all the time Harbor Freight , Grissly, EX ELECTRONIX EXPRESS ,Central Machinery are all the same multiple people selling the same product under different names but when you get them side by side you see it's exactly the same thing
Nice job brother ! I'm subbing immediately. Thanks for the upload ! 👍
Do you have a parts list for the conversion? This is just what I want as a hobbyist knife maker. Thanks
Could you mount a Razor Sharp directly on to the sewing machine motor?
I'm sorry I am not sure what you mean "Razor Sharp" and mounting it to the motor?
@@ALXSHARPEN Directly to the sewing machine motor?
Hey Paul I just picked up the grizzly 2x42. Curious as to what belts you recommended I buy for it.
120 Cubitron, A30 Trizact, A15, Trizact get them from Cliff Curry his link is at the top of my channel in the links list. I also got a nice 2x42 leather strop from cliff
Might be a dumb question but why not just take off the wheel and entire black arm on the right side and mount that to the smaller motor? Maybe custom plate to it?
I thought that but couldn’t find a way to do it I also thought that maybe I could hook it on a different grinder that was variable speed but it attaches to the outer case of the grinder and it’s also what makes it easier to adjust the belt side angle from flat to upright . So the arbor coupling was the easiest solution that I could come up with without having to make major changes to the Bucktool also, doing it this way gave me the ability to still use the Bucktool motor if I wanted to use it. Losing the grinder side for me wasn’t and issue Because I have plenty of grinders in my shop
@@ALXSHARPEN I’m really considering doing this. Is there a work email I can contact you directly?
Did you notice any difference in performance with the other motor?
Yes the motor I put on makes it much better
@@ALXSHARPEN thanks, I have the same motor and was thinking about doing the same thing but didn’t know if was gonna be powerful enough
@@user-ih6ty6nv1w oh it has plenty of power I do Axes and Hatchets and Mauls and machetes all kinds of heavy duty sharpening on mine
@@ALXSHARPEN thanks for the info
Do I really need to cut? Can I just attach without cutting it?
if you can find a coupling that's longer than the one I used they you could do it without cutting but I couldn't find one the cutting was really easy
could the drive wheel on the 2x42 not fit on the new motor or would it?
No easy way to mount it directly arbor sizes are all different
Is it at all possible to remove the whole belt mechanism and attach it directly to the servo motor?
Not in a way I could figure out you can detach the belt side but the Bucktool grinder case is designed to have the belt attach to it. Also all the brushless motors I have seen are 15mm arbors and the tool
Is 1/2 inch or 12.7mm so the wheel won’t fit.
I had considered using a variable speed grinder and swapping it for the Bucktool motor and use just the Case but it wasn’t a match up with the variable speed grinder I had available
@Alexandria Knife Sharpening what diameter is the shaft of the Bucktool 2x42? I wish they made a high- speed/low-speed version like their 1x42 sander.
@@grantlauinger8663 the Bucktool arbor is 1/2 inch and that’s 12.7mm in metric
Hello, I just ordered that bucktool. Is that belt speed too fast to sharpen? I see you modified it.
Most of these were designed with knife making in mind not sharpening so big fast motors for stock removal. For sharpening slower is always better for controlling heat, and the work piece so if you're going to use the stock motor for sharpening don't linger you will have to use fast strokes and that's not always easy for people. By making mine Variable speed it lets me have far more control over the work piece and the heat. Also why sharpeners like to convert 1x30s or just buy a variable speed unit.
@@ALXSHARPEN yeah for some reason it says for sharpening as well. I can also take off the wheel and put a scotch brite from curry.
@@robertmunguia250 mine didn't have enough clearance Cliff just cut away metal to make it fit. He has a video on it . I ordered a custom wheel. Cliffs method is much less expensive than what i did
@@ALXSHARPEN that mophorn motor unavailable at the moment.
What is wrong with the Buck motor?
For sharpening it's to fast and only goes one direction fine for knife making but by converting it to variable speed and running both directions it can sharpen edge leading or trailing and can do much more. I also added custom wheels so it can run Scotch Brite belts
How do you keep this motor on without holding it?
I removed the springs and sometimes some of the motors may need a little adjustment to get them to stay but most work perfectly after the springs are removed one of my 1x30 I had to do a little work to the control but normally once you pull the springs off you should be good
@@ALXSHARPEN thank you so much!
@@4501jbeezy no problem happy to help
I'm way too ADHD to watch this again and see if i missed an important detai, but why are you attaching a smaller motor to run a machine that already has a motor? I see at the end it comes with a variable frequency drive, but you can build one for the existing universal AC motor with technically as few as two electronic components. Like literally a burly, macho TRIAC, like a transistor but for AC, rated for continous 600v and 20A would be sufficient for this job. Add a variable resistor. Technically that would work. That's a two component speed controller you can wire in to one of the two wires going into the machine.
In real life, we would build a slightly more complex TRIAC/DIAC circuit. This isn't even complex electriconics nerd shit. It's simple power electronics. Incorporate some back EMF protection and some circuit protection- this is a dimmer circuit. It just chops up the AC current and only lets some of it through. Sewing machine foot controls were built this way for years, actually a lot of them just use the simple TRIAC/thyristor+variable resistor circuit. Now they use more modern DC electronics, VFD drive. This is a crazy solution, what you've done here. You can also buy a motor speed controller unit that will work for this.
There is no motor speed controller that will work with this kind of motor and not cause a problem or it will have no torque. I tried a router control they do not work for this and you are also wrong on the dimmer control they only work on some types of motors many others have tried fan dimmers. Also as I said in the video I wanted to still be able to use the original motor if I needed the high speed the Bucktool motor runs at. This has been working great for me for some time. You do realise this is a sewing machine motor like you mention in your second paragraph. You say I am wrong but then you say well it's like a sewing machine motor the thing I actually used to get this machine to do what I want it to do which is to have full variable speed and go both directions. Anyway it sounds like you know or at least think you know a lot about electronics, but many have tried to make the motors on Harbor Freight Sanders variable speed and go in forward and reverse and other similar tools. If it were easy it would have been done long ago I have not seen it done. So why not go make it since you seem to know the secret and share it in a video and tell us all where to get the parts and how it's done. Once you do let me know. I will be happy to promote your video and channel. I do find it interesting that those like you who love to be very critical of others never have a video or make one showing how to do what they say is not correct. I will be anxiously awaiting your first UA-cam video Evan.