The 01 02 24valve trucks use torx on that part of the gear case and the cover does not use a gasket from the factory. They just used rtv. The cam, crank and pump gears are in fact marked from the factory just like yours. I've owned my 01 since new and just did a cam on it. It was exactly like that.
Just picked up a 2001 Single Cab Dually, have a pretty good idea of what I want to do to it and your 2nd gen vids are definitely helping me as far as advice goes! Love the content, cant wait to see more!
The bolt pattern for a vp pump is different than a p pump. Some of the later model vp 24v engines have a shoulder casted into the case where the kdp is that prevents the pin from coming out even if it shakes loose. When doing a p pump 24v using a 12v case you do need to tab the kdp because it doesnt have the shoulder to prevent it from falling out.
I like the idea of seeing what the VP pump will do, P Pump is always an option and is not hard to change over later on. Love the videos keep up the great work!👍🏻
@greg_a look like to me the reason they were in there was for a crankshaft seal. I say that because it looks like theres a sleeve on the end of the crank. That to me look like the logical conclusion.
Ya i have a 2002 ram 2500 too, but it's unfortunately a 4speed auto and also mine is a 53 block but knock on wood. I haven't had any issues with the block. I did have to replace the VP 44 pump. I would like to try and P-pump it and rebuild the 47RE. Just got to get some money saved up to do all that.
Greg, your channel is easily the best diesel channel on youtube and thats coming from a Duramax guy. What break in oil do you use or do you use a zinc additive for break in?
Just bought a cam from Hamilton pretty sure it’s the same one you got if you could go into detail about why you chose that one would be awesome!!! Thanks Greg!!
Awesome awesome video Greg A, time to start building power on the ol 24v 2nd Gen lol, got a lot of nice parts, to put in it, can’t wait to see what else you got in store for it lol.
Great video and nice job 👍 In this Stage i would put a p pump on.... but I think that you prefer to tryout the vp44 firsf, and see how much hp you can do out of it....😬
i thought that driveway looked familiar! wasnt positive but i drive by your house all the time didnt realize you were local lol. keep up the vids dude great stuff
P pump it! And definitely do the oil pump and dampener. If I know you, when you build an engine even a little, it ends up having the sweet spot of the power band be where redline originally was lol. Not worth the risk of either one failing with more engine speed. Love the content though man, keep up the great work!
Do you know what oil the previous owners used? I see you have used Amsoil in your trucks.....I use Amsoil in my 04.5. Looks very clean inside the block.
Matthew McGowan probably not much differences between oils. I think with better stuff like amsoil you increased intervals. Clean oil is better than dirty oil. I just run rotella conventional and my engine looks very nice inside. But it only has 230k roughly.
Thank the lord Greg got a 2nd gen, FINALLY! Been waiting on this for a while. All great information that I feel a lot of guys are gonna be excited to learn for all of us with 2nd gens. Are you gonna do a front main seal? Another thing to add to your list of things to do is replace that damn Camshaft Position Sensor while you have everything out of your way. $50 bucks or so. Also interested to see how you get rid of that damn puke bottle because my engine bay is starting to get a mess and I empty it every oil change.
I know the early common rail trucks like 03 04 had torxs bolts from the factory that held the case to the block its possible they started doing that in late 02.
53 blocks had poor water jackets that would crack easily, though for the most part as long as you let the truck warm up before you start ripping on it then it’ll be fine
Just go ahead and p pump swap it since the case is.coming about anyway. 150% injectors and a monster Mike's p pump and a s476 with decent box tunes and you got. 675hp monster
Is that power steering pump gear driven? Could someone have changed that or the oil pump at some point? That might explain why the case had been opened
@@BolteBuilt i think the pump studs spacing is the same. But the covers are totally different. Even between the 98.5 to 99 to 00 to 02 those covers are different. I know this from experience.
This maybe helpful for those that are unfamiliar with the Cummins 5.9L "53" block. The "53" comes from a casting number on the side of the block and is used to identify the problem blocks. Supposedly it affects about 100,000 blocks, but not only in Dodge Rams. Here is information regarding the castings from a thread on TDR: Copied from: www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=66346&highlight=cracked+block 1. Brazilian Blocks are cast by a company named "TUPY" and are marked such. They are identified with cast evolution numbers. #53's are TUPY's. #54 and later evolutions were improved to correct the block issues that the 53's had. 2. Mexican Blocks were made by "Teksid" these blocks to my knowledge never had a problem with cracking, as they are heavier duty by trait, but they did follow the evolutions and got thicker. These blocks do not have the 2 digit "cast number" embossed on the side, instead a series of numbers that are unidentifiable to me. The Mexican blocks were rumored to even be harder to machine do to a harder cast overall, basically better quality in my opinion. Brazilian Tupys always seem to outnumber Mexican blocks during the ISB's production probably about 8 to 1. So basically if there is a pattern number its Brazilian, if there is a series of small numbers its Mexican. By the way the Mexican equivalent of a 56 pattern was the Heaviest ISB block of all. This means if you have a 2002 without a #56 on it and instead it has a series of numbers that are smaller and hard to identify, you got the the big boy!!! Why the Worry? Simply, the worry is that the block will crack. These blocks have thinner water jacket walls than other blocks so with coolant cavitation, corrosion, coolant pressure in the block, and torque, they may crack, spilling your coolant. I know from experience that it will not blow up the engine, but you will see that temp gauge rise more often than you'd like. Who Should Worry? Those owners of a Cummins 24v ISB engine in a 1998-2001 model year vehicle. This does not only affect Dodge Rams. The 53 block was also used in medium duty trucks from different manufacturers, mobile homes, public school buses and mass transportation buses. How Do I Find out? If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. See picture below: Note: I have heard of some cases where the "53" is elsewhere on the block, but I have not been able to verify any other locations or see them. I now have proof of another location where a "53" can be found. What Happens? A crack develops on the right side of the engine, below the freeze plugs, right where the block bends back towards the inside of the block. It is a difficult area to see for auto transmission owners as it is directly behind the transmission heat exchanger. At first everything evaporates so there is no spot under the truck, but you may notice a coolant odor. The leak doesn't occur at idle in most cases because the crack is tight to get through, and doesn't leak until the RPMs of the engine are up, with the water pump causing higher pressure inside the engine block due to the restriction of the thermostat. The crack will grow over time and you will go through coolant faster. I found that I lost coolant at a slower rate if I let the engine warm up for a while, so the thermostat opened and lessened the pressure inside the engine block. When Might It Happen? This crack begins when towing in most cases. I have seen modded trucks that did not leak until they were stressed from towing heavy loads in the mountains. These same trucks would put in several runs at the drag strip on a regular basis and never had a problem, even towing, until they towed in the mountains. This is how my crack happened. I towed my tractor on the basically flat land around my home (minimal rolling hills) and I had not experienced a problem until after I had towed my tractor in the Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia (for those of you who don't know, these ain't very big mountains when compared to the Rockies). The load was about 8,500 lbs + the 6,900 of the truck. What Do I Do If I Have A Cracked Block? This depends on a lot of things. In the first scenario, you have a stone-stock truck with less than 100K, and is less than 5 years old. In this case, just take it to the Dodge dealer and let them put a new short or long block in (they will decide which they put in), free of charge. If you don't have any other problems with the internals of your engine you might ask them if they will just replace the block with the latest design ISB block, the "Storm" design. Reasons for this will become clearer later in this article. If you have no engine mods, but have added gauges or upgraded the transmission in a manner that is evident to the naked eye, you will likely get some flack from Dodge about your "mods", even though they don't really affect the engine's running or what caused the crack. This happened to me, in that I have Fuel Pressure, EGT, and Boost gauges, as well as an upgraded transmission with a double-deep pan on it, and an Emjay transmission shift controller. If you have a modded engine, depending on your mods, and how difficult they are to remove with no evidence left, you may have a fight on your hands. Remove everything you can, and be prepared to challenge everything they gripe about on it. The gauges do NOT have anything to do with the engine block cracking, and they know it. The dealer may try to tell you they have never seen a block crack. It's a bold faced LIE! Unless the dealer just opened it's doors or they don't have Dodge trucks in that area, someone there knows all about it, and the Dodge regional rep who must inspect the engine to approve warranty service on the block, due to its cost, knows all about it. This frustrated me, as my dealer told me they never heard of such a thing happening to these engine blocks. While I never actually got a chance to speak to the regional rep, the dealer told me the rep said he had never seen an engine block crack. Another lie. The rep only wanted to pick my truck apart, and said the crack was cause by "over torque". More BS. I will relate my experience and what I have heard, to get warranty service when Dodge tries to wiggle out from under it. I heard someone else say that they called Cummins to yell about it, and Cummins got Dodge to take care of it. This is actually what I ended up doing also. In my case, I took my truck to the Cummins dealer in my area, Mid-Atlantic Cummins, and a service writer there helped my with the warranty matters. My plan was to have my "aftermarket" warranty I purchased with the truck pay for the repair since Dodge rejected it. It turns out their "fine print" says they won't pay for any block problems that aren't "caused by an internally lubricated part". That's when I called Cummins about my problem and they got in touch with someone higher up at Dodge to take care of my warranty issue. Cummins number is 800-DIESELS.
Way too much sprung pressure especially being a 24v. At the least you'd probably screw up head studs, possibly pushrods, maybe even warp or crack the head if you tried doing that just wrong.
No loosen enough to take push rods out but why take the rocker all the way off? Or can you not get the push rods out without taking the rocker off on these trucks?
@@customoffroadanddiyanythin1332 Nope, I don't think there's a diesel out there with big enough push rod holes to loosen up the rockers on the pedestals and slip the push rods past and out. Definitely can't do it on a 24v head though.
Greg ....P pump.... that’s the smartest thing I’ve heard you say and I’m an OG since episode 4
The 01 02 24valve trucks use torx on that part of the gear case and the cover does not use a gasket from the factory. They just used rtv. The cam, crank and pump gears are in fact marked from the factory just like yours. I've owned my 01 since new and just did a cam on it. It was exactly like that.
"This nice tray is really, really nice."
- Greg A.
Monster RAM 😂🤣🤦♂️
Yeah that was really funny. Lol
Who are you kidding Greg you are going to get a billet tappet cover lol.
Just picked up a 2001 Single Cab Dually, have a pretty good idea of what I want to do to it and your 2nd gen vids are definitely helping me as far as advice goes! Love the content, cant wait to see more!
Thats tits
Anyone else agree and say go ahead and P Pump it?🙋🏽♂️
Hell yeah just go rob it off the first gen lol
Good idea to replace an easy gasket that 'may' be or could in the short distance leak. Love the tech stuff.
So informative. Keep it up bud, cant wait too see this thing slamming gears
The bolt pattern for a vp pump is different than a p pump. Some of the later model vp 24v engines have a shoulder casted into the case where the kdp is that prevents the pin from coming out even if it shakes loose. When doing a p pump 24v using a 12v case you do need to tab the kdp because it doesnt have the shoulder to prevent it from falling out.
I enjoyed the more in-depth... even when there was some overlap with older videos. Good stuff!
Love seeing another rabbit pickup and the 2nd gen and 4th gen of course.
Need to go make a video with DurtyMax Jack and help him out with his new Cummins build!!!!
I like the idea of seeing what the VP pump will do, P Pump is always an option and is not hard to change over later on. Love the videos keep up the great work!👍🏻
Greg A Video Notification = Drop everything and watch!
@greg_a look like to me the reason they were in there was for a crankshaft seal. I say that because it looks like theres a sleeve on the end of the crank. That to me look like the logical conclusion.
Awesome video man. Videos showing how to do stuff can be really challenging I find and you nailed it man.
And down goes the first domino!!! Great video! Definitely helpful to a lot of people out there!
I saw a sick diesel vw pickup with dual stacks it was sweet!!!
Ya i have a 2002 ram 2500 too, but it's unfortunately a 4speed auto and also mine is a 53 block but knock on wood. I haven't had any issues with the block. I did have to replace the VP 44 pump. I would like to try and P-pump it and rebuild the 47RE. Just got to get some money saved up to do all that.
You can repair a 53 block with lock n stitch. That how they fix cast iron head
Greg, your channel is easily the best diesel channel on youtube and thats coming from a Duramax guy. What break in oil do you use or do you use a zinc additive for break in?
Look into Schaeffer oil 👍👌🏁
Just bought a cam from Hamilton pretty sure it’s the same one you got if you could go into detail about why you chose that one would be awesome!!! Thanks Greg!!
I have an 05 with same torx bolts in same spots
You don't need a press to install cam gears you can heat it up to 250-300 degrees and it will slide right on.
that opening....what a gorgeous teardown...
Awesome awesome video Greg A, time to start building power on the ol 24v 2nd Gen lol, got a lot of nice parts, to put in it, can’t wait to see what else you got in store for it lol.
If it had grey rtv it was a update from dodge it was a updated back cover for the kdp mine was like that
Great video and nice job 👍
In this Stage i would put a p pump on.... but I think that you prefer to tryout the vp44 firsf, and see how much hp you can do out of it....😬
22:21 “this nice tray is really really nice” 😂😂
I was just in my 01 and it looked the same as yours and had to do the case to block and a head gasket be sure to lock tight all them bolts!!!
And mine had Rtv from the factory they up dated it 2000 just like the common rails all have rtv
Hahahahahahahahaha
"Bye creme"
Caught it
i thought that driveway looked familiar! wasnt positive but i drive by your house all the time didnt realize you were local lol. keep up the vids dude great stuff
Greg, since you are replacing the VP44 with a “newer used” one. Make sure the key way number match the number on the pump. New oil pump, 100%!
P pump it! And definitely do the oil pump and dampener. If I know you, when you build an engine even a little, it ends up having the sweet spot of the power band be where redline originally was lol. Not worth the risk of either one failing with more engine speed. Love the content though man, keep up the great work!
Those are the right bolt mine has the same ones and they probably replaced the front main seal
Its a tone wheel for the cam position sensor. It has to be there for that year model
Could you show us how you go about pressing the cam gear on and off, I have always wondered what I would do when the time comes to put my cam in.
“Alright bye cream” 😂
Do you know what oil the previous owners used? I see you have used Amsoil in your trucks.....I use Amsoil in my 04.5. Looks very clean inside the block.
Matthew McGowan probably not much differences between oils. I think with better stuff like amsoil you increased intervals. Clean oil is better than dirty oil. I just run rotella conventional and my engine looks very nice inside. But it only has 230k roughly.
Look into Schaeffer oil 👍👌🏁
Great video Greg ! Keep up the good content
What's the diameter of the cam, so we can make our own tappet holder tray?
Great vid appreciate the in depth explanations
The factory 6speed 24v trucks was a High output and the 53 blocks had been fased out buy 01
The torx bolts are normal on the 01-02 trucks
I got a 99 and it has the same thing
Greg. I have a 98.5 Cummins when the time comes can you do a detailed valve clearance video.
Thank the lord Greg got a 2nd gen, FINALLY! Been waiting on this for a while. All great information that I feel a lot of guys are gonna be excited to learn for all of us with 2nd gens.
Are you gonna do a front main seal?
Another thing to add to your list of things to do is replace that damn Camshaft Position Sensor while you have everything out of your way. $50 bucks or so. Also interested to see how you get rid of that damn puke bottle because my engine bay is starting to get a mess and I empty it every oil change.
I know the early common rail trucks like 03 04 had torxs bolts from the factory that held the case to the block its possible they started doing that in late 02.
It was common on 01 up trucks
Great vidj greg very interesting 👍😎🤟🇬🇧
possible it’s been open because of a warranty or recall? maybe a factory 53 what cracked when it was almost new, and got a 56 warrantied in?
No the 53 block as only put in 99 and early 00 trucks
53 blocks had poor water jackets that would crack easily, though for the most part as long as you let the truck warm up before you start ripping on it then it’ll be fine
Agreed. My 53 block doing just fine, @ 450k.
Greg you should put a huge turbo on the 2gen
This is what im doing to my sec gen, perfect timing
What is the secret of getting # 5 & 6 push rods out?
Love the content lately on the 24v! What song/band was used during the time lapse taking the head off?
Need a new case for the ppump swap, also need cam sensor relocation bracket.
Very informative.
Drag truck update soon?
That vp44 has been replaced. Notice how the gear looks newer than the rest.
Cliffton Arnold why would you replace the pump gear?
@@justinphilbin8313 could have been damaged when they took it apart. Some of those gears are a pain.
P-pump it! Cream
Just go ahead and p pump swap it since the case is.coming about anyway. 150% injectors and a monster Mike's p pump and a s476 with decent box tunes and you got. 675hp monster
Most likely in there for the power steering pump
Get yourself a KDP kit from XDP as long as that front cover is off.
Sounds like you're taking the tappet cover off anyways a lot easier to do the tap it's that way
Would the old vp44 be goin up for sale?
Dope mark has a caddy, needs a TDi
Every cummins i've been into has torx holding that rear plate on.
Is that power steering pump gear driven? Could someone have changed that or the oil pump at some point? That might explain why the case had been opened
Oil pump possibly... but power steering/vacuum pump can be replaced without pulling the front cover.
I have the same problem i cant put stuff together not perfect
It has probably had the vp44 replaced is why it's been appart
Put a billet timing cover on it
Yes!
You’ll need a new case to p pump I’m pretty sure.
U are correct. The cases are different.
Kevin Lee if I’m not mistaken the pump would go on the studs but the gear wouldn’t line up or even be able to go on would it? Machinable?
@@BolteBuilt i think the pump studs spacing is the same. But the covers are totally different. Even between the 98.5 to 99 to 00 to 02 those covers are different. I know this from experience.
Kevin Lee thanks for the input 👍🏻
I might consider WW merch if you P pump swap this 24V
Yeah do a ppump
The vp was mostly likely changed if it was apart I bet!!
likely dropped the keyway in the case and had to open it up to retrieve. Been there
I thought those VW Caddys trucks were all diesels actually?
P PUMP IT!!!!!! You know that's where it will go eventually anyway when the VP bites it, which it will
Also my opinion someone blew up or cracked a 53 block and got a new short block or long block and swapped it in
No the 53 block was only put in 99 and early 00 trucks
Can I buy that old vp pump from you
This maybe helpful for those that are unfamiliar with the Cummins 5.9L "53" block.
The "53" comes from a casting number on the side of the block and is used to identify the problem blocks. Supposedly it affects about 100,000 blocks, but not only in Dodge Rams.
Here is information regarding the castings from a thread on TDR:
Copied from: www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=66346&highlight=cracked+block
1. Brazilian Blocks are cast by a company named "TUPY" and are marked such. They are identified with cast evolution numbers. #53's are TUPY's. #54 and later evolutions were improved to correct the block issues that the 53's had.
2. Mexican Blocks were made by "Teksid" these blocks to my knowledge never had a problem with cracking, as they are heavier duty by trait, but they did follow the evolutions and got thicker. These blocks do not have the 2 digit "cast number" embossed on the side, instead a series of numbers that are unidentifiable to me. The Mexican blocks were rumored to even be harder to machine do to a harder cast overall, basically better quality in my opinion.
Brazilian Tupys always seem to outnumber Mexican blocks during the ISB's production probably about 8 to 1. So basically if there is a pattern number its Brazilian, if there is a series of small numbers its Mexican.
By the way the Mexican equivalent of a 56 pattern was the Heaviest ISB block of all. This means if you have a 2002 without a #56 on it and instead it has a series of numbers that are smaller and hard to identify, you got the the big boy!!!
Why the Worry?
Simply, the worry is that the block will crack. These blocks have thinner water jacket walls than other blocks so with coolant cavitation, corrosion, coolant pressure in the block, and torque, they may crack, spilling your coolant. I know from experience that it will not blow up the engine, but you will see that temp gauge rise more often than you'd like.
Who Should Worry?
Those owners of a Cummins 24v ISB engine in a 1998-2001 model year vehicle. This does not only affect Dodge Rams. The 53 block was also used in medium duty trucks from different manufacturers, mobile homes, public school buses and mass transportation buses.
How Do I Find out?
If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. See picture below:
Note: I have heard of some cases where the "53" is elsewhere on the block, but I have not been able to verify any other locations or see them. I now have proof of another location where a "53" can be found.
What Happens?
A crack develops on the right side of the engine, below the freeze plugs, right where the block bends back towards the inside of the block. It is a difficult area to see for auto transmission owners as it is directly behind the transmission heat exchanger. At first everything evaporates so there is no spot under the truck, but you may notice a coolant odor. The leak doesn't occur at idle in most cases because the crack is tight to get through, and doesn't leak until the RPMs of the engine are up, with the water pump causing higher pressure inside the engine block due to the restriction of the thermostat.
The crack will grow over time and you will go through coolant faster. I found that I lost coolant at a slower rate if I let the engine warm up for a while, so the thermostat opened and lessened the pressure inside the engine block.
When Might It Happen?
This crack begins when towing in most cases. I have seen modded trucks that did not leak until they were stressed from towing heavy loads in the mountains. These same trucks would put in several runs at the drag strip on a regular basis and never had a problem, even towing, until they towed in the mountains. This is how my crack happened. I towed my tractor on the basically flat land around my home (minimal rolling hills) and I had not experienced a problem until after I had towed my tractor in the Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia (for those of you who don't know, these ain't very big mountains when compared to the Rockies). The load was about 8,500 lbs + the 6,900 of the truck.
What Do I Do If I Have A Cracked Block?
This depends on a lot of things. In the first scenario, you have a stone-stock truck with less than 100K, and is less than 5 years old. In this case, just take it to the Dodge dealer and let them put a new short or long block in (they will decide which they put in), free of charge. If you don't have any other problems with the internals of your engine you might ask them if they will just replace the block with the latest design ISB block, the "Storm" design. Reasons for this will become clearer later in this article.
If you have no engine mods, but have added gauges or upgraded the transmission in a manner that is evident to the naked eye, you will likely get some flack from Dodge about your "mods", even though they don't really affect the engine's running or what caused the crack. This happened to me, in that I have Fuel Pressure, EGT, and Boost gauges, as well as an upgraded transmission with a double-deep pan on it, and an Emjay transmission shift controller.
If you have a modded engine, depending on your mods, and how difficult they are to remove with no evidence left, you may have a fight on your hands. Remove everything you can, and be prepared to challenge everything they gripe about on it. The gauges do NOT have anything to do with the engine block cracking, and they know it. The dealer may try to tell you they have never seen a block crack. It's a bold faced LIE! Unless the dealer just opened it's doors or they don't have Dodge trucks in that area, someone there knows all about it, and the Dodge regional rep who must inspect the engine to approve warranty service on the block, due to its cost, knows all about it.
This frustrated me, as my dealer told me they never heard of such a thing happening to these engine blocks. While I never actually got a chance to speak to the regional rep, the dealer told me the rep said he had never seen an engine block crack. Another lie. The rep only wanted to pick my truck apart, and said the crack was cause by "over torque". More BS.
I will relate my experience and what I have heard, to get warranty service when Dodge tries to wiggle out from under it. I heard someone else say that they called Cummins to yell about it, and Cummins got Dodge to take care of it. This is actually what I ended up doing also. In my case, I took my truck to the Cummins dealer in my area, Mid-Atlantic Cummins, and a service writer there helped my with the warranty matters. My plan was to have my "aftermarket" warranty I purchased with the truck pay for the repair since Dodge rejected it. It turns out their "fine print" says they won't pay for any block problems that aren't "caused by an internally lubricated part". That's when I called Cummins about my problem and they got in touch with someone higher up at Dodge to take care of my warranty issue. Cummins number is 800-DIESELS.
Did I hear p-pump swap?
Gang Gang 🤙🏽🤙🏽
P pump swaaaaaaaap
Greg how come we never see Johnny send it anymore or any of your other buddies?
Test the limits of the vp44 then p-pump it 👍👌🏁🏁🏁🏁
Wheres the first gen?!
Yes PPUMP it forget doing it in stages lol
Greg, can you not get the head off without pulling the rocker arms off?
Way too much sprung pressure especially being a 24v. At the least you'd probably screw up head studs, possibly pushrods, maybe even warp or crack the head if you tried doing that just wrong.
No loosen enough to take push rods out but why take the rocker all the way off? Or can you not get the push rods out without taking the rocker off on these trucks?
You need to pull them to get the push rod out
@@customoffroadanddiyanythin1332 Nope, I don't think there's a diesel out there with big enough push rod holes to loosen up the rockers on the pedestals and slip the push rods past and out. Definitely can't do it on a 24v head though.
@01Durango5.9R/T thank you for the info
You shoud dump those valve seals in the trash and get a set of Power Driven's top hat seals!
Chris Jordan I was thinking the same!
The pump says reman on it ... they changed the pump..
Ppump it you’re right there
The pump was a reman, I’d assume a new truck wouldn’t have a reman pump right? Bet that’s why someone was in there.
Probably just replaced the crank seal
Love the vids greg👍🏻
What happened to Jhonny send it???????
He started his own channel
P pump it 👌🏻
Maybe the cam was put in at some point as a used cam before you got the truck
Now Mikey G has a VW Caddy like me on my channel!!!
P PUMP!!!!
Gotta P-Pump the 24v!!