I get the bauer packs from harbor freight and take the guts out of them and put in the dewalt packs. You have to solder the old board onto the new pack even though the bauer is almost identical it still won't work with a 20v tool or charge unless you swap the guts over.
For any future views who want to know, the 18650 in these cells is the sanyo UR18650RX. The identifier is not printed in ink, it is embossed ever so slightly in the heatshrink.
interesting points ,if anyone else wants to uncover recondition old batteries try Jons Mender Guide (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some great things about it and my work buddy got excellent success with it.
You should have opted for 2.5Ah high current cells instead. Much safer as those cells are made to high currents and tool will perform much better. Pack may work on the drill. But may not have as high torque as when using high current cells.
Yea Probably should have used higher current cells.. But It works good enough for me and I mostly use it for the Flashlight and USB adapter that Dewalt makes. Although I did use it till dead driving deck screws in shortly after I made this.. It was good until about 80% dead then started to slow down.. Still lasted way longer than the other packs I have.
I agree, but there are a few Dewalt devices that don't need high current cells. For the top power tools they are of course needed. Using a single row of cells in a high power tool will certainly make a burn.
If you use good cells that can discharge at 20 Amps or more, those nice little solder joints become resistors and will melt. They don't solder for a good reason. Ever wonder why your household (in wall ) wiring are not soldered? No, they're not. They are crimped or screwed together. Or else they become single-use wiring.
Super late reply, but I want to add - solder's fault isn't its conductivity compared to copper - the problem lies in properly using it. Butting two conductors near each other and bridging with solder isn't ever ideal, particularly in stressful environments. You should always mechanically attach two conductors, then solder. Long ago, house wiring *was* often soldered, although this was only after the wire was mechanically secured and twisted in the splice. The battery tab on some tool batteries is simply soldered into the circuit board, too. Never removed one, but they seem to have decent contact area and a large blob of solder.
Nice video. I'll add that the likely issue with the battery size is that they included protection circuits on each cell. If you buy them without that option they'll be the same size (the protection should be handled by the battery pack electronics so this isn't a problem).
these Panasonic cells can only discharge at about 5Amp maximum current. you should use power lithium-ion batteries like Samsung 30Q or LG HE4 cells, they can dischage at 20Amp current.
+Jing Zhang Yea probably should have... It work's just fine with the drill.. I used the battery a few weekends ago to build a deck and It would drive the deck screws till the last drop of power and it did last way way longer than the dewalt pack.
You need to use a spot welder for these. Not solder. Solder makes battery temp reach over 400°f - 450°f Spot welding 90°f - 100°f Have I done it? Well yeah. You get less resistance too with spot welding.
Nice guide! Charging to 4.0- 4.1v per cell does 2 things: 1, it would take far longer to re-charge the packs to 4.2. Users wouldn't be happy with the long charge time. 2, the cells life will be far longer charging to 4.0-4.1 than a full 4.2 charge. Also, not fully discharging improves cell life. As vuaeco says below, Pana. high capacity cells aren't ideal for fast discharge. Unfortunately, high discharge cells only come in 1.5- 2.5 Ah. That's why Dewalt uses more cells to make higher capacity, not higher capacity cells. Users hate the huge packs, but that's the only reliable way of having a high capacity pack.
The model B cell has a protection circuit built in. You can buy this cell without the protection circuit and it should actually be the standard 650 cell length.
Jeremy Siess - No, that's not correct. The major battery companies never add protection circuitry. That is only done buy aftermarket companies. So you can buy those Panasonic NCR18650B's with or without protection circuitry.
@@JasonWW2000 No these Jeremy is right the model B does have the protection circuit in them, Mechanical mod users for e-cigarettes use these batteries all the time because of the built in circuit protection. They are just a tad longer.
@@jeffdewe I think your misunderstanding what he and I are saying. When the cell comes out of the Panasonic factory it will never have protection circuitry. If you see a Panasonic cell with protection circuitry you know it was added by a 3rd party supplier who sourced it from some other company and then rewrapped the cell. So they can be found with many different protection circuits added. They will vary in shut off voltage (2.2v-2.5v), vary in maximum charge voltage (4.21v-4.24v), vary in upper temperature limit (may not even have this protection feature) and vary in maximum discharge amperage (3A-15A). This is why you see protected cells with so many different specs. The little protection boards are made by lots of companies and you have to rely on the store your buying the battery from to tell what the protection circuitry specs are. I hope that clears up any misunderstandings.
@@jeffdewe One more thing, factory 18650, 21700 and 26650 cells (unprotected) do typically include a few basic safety devices built in. These are not on an added circuit board, they are built in and have no effect on length. The first is a fusible link that protects against a direct short. If it has it and it does short directly, this link will blow preventing a fire. The battery is damaged beyond repair and needs to be properly disposed of. The second is a membrane designed to burst if pressure builds up inside the cell. Instead of it exploding like a pipe bomb due to high pressure, the membrane will break and the cell will outgas. Like above, the battery is damaged beyond repair and needs to be properly disposed of.
@@JasonWW2000 They are protected batteries I owned like 6 of them in the past when I was vaping with a mech mod, They are indeed a bit longer due to extras in them.
Awesome video! Man, doubling the battery capacity and not making the battery any heavier. 18650 batteries are even better now since you made this video too.. and cheaper! I will NEVER buy another new DeWalt battery again!
Current 3 ah battery can be found for under $100 for a two pack with better 21700 cells. Goes on sale at times for $79. This video was neat, but probably easier and better to just buy from DeWalt during sales.
nice rebuild ! the BMS are inside the charger not in the battery and this help a lot to rebuild. but I don't know if it is good to the pack because there is no equalization in use. only when charging. anyway nice work!
Hi, Thanks for the video. Any advice on who or how to rebuild an 18V Dewalt lithium? I dropped one in a full rain barrel over two years ago. It's held a solid 19V of charge in the lithium cells since then--- and none of them are damaged. However, the circuitry reset or was destroyed, so the charger registers it as faulty.
I would open it up and see if there is any corrosion on the the board anywhere and make sure the contacts aren't rusted and if there are no obvious signs of damage then maybe buy a dead battery from ebay and just replace your circuits with the ones from the dead battery.
DeWalt chooses to not go over 4.0v per cell, because the cells last MUCH longer. You really don't lost much capacity from 4.2 to 4.0, because the cells drop to 4.0 or lower the first 20 seconds of using the drill. DeWalt was very wise to go 20V max.
Can you please advise? Was there only the pos. and neg. to connect to the battery pack? The battery shows 5 connections,,are the other 3 not connected? Usually they are connected to give battery condition and temperature references back to charger, is there no on board circuitry,PCB, in battery? Grateful for any answers from anyone reading comment.
I have been thinking about doing the same thing but are those rated for the amps needed I was looking at some that are 3200 mah that have like 20a and 40a discharge rates but the lg 3000mAh are a lot more cost effective
So how have these batteries gone long term? You mentioned they werent being fully charged so are they lasting longer and have the same power with the new cells?
Don't use these cells. They're pretty inappropriate for the application - In particular, the dewalt charger is too fast. The reduced charge voltage is just a choice by dewalt, and is appropriate. They are being fully charged.
Shouldn’t you charge and balance your cells first? That’s likely the reason you can’t get to 4.2v. When one sense wire reaches max voltage it stops charging all of them.
The cells should be close in voltage.. like plus or minus .1v And I am pretty sure the dewalt charger doesn't charge to 4.2v.. Probably for longer cell life.
@@keylitho Yes, something else I read said that max voltage for DeWALT is around 4v… but they also said 0.1v is too much variance. It’s not like we’re building a new battery here so, like you, I think 0.1v is close enough for a rebuild.
@@keylitho Oh yeah… they call these “20v Max” battery packs in North America and the smallest ones have five cells in series, hence, 4v per cell “Max.” That seems to be what the other guy was referring to. Not sure if there is any overhead there, since “Max” is just a way to market a higher voltage instead of the 18v nominal voltage… supposedly to differentiate from their older line of NiCd-powered “18v” tools.
What model 18650 batteries were used in the dewalt pack originally from factory? I would have used some 20A cdr batteries instead of the less than 5A panasonic batteries in the video.
They use samsung INR 15R's in the 1.5Ah packs. Typically good quality mid-tier cells in dewalt packs. Those panasonics are a terrible choice. Discharge current is not adequate, and charge current is unacceptable for dewalt fast chargers. Max charge speed for those cells is over an hour.
Great Video! Now you have a light 3.0ah pack instead of 2 cheap chinese 1.3ah(maybe) packs! In a practical working sense what you have is way better! Liked !!
Would it not be 1.7amp after installing the 5 X 3400mah batteries? How did he come to the conclusion that its now a 3.4Amp hr battery? Whats the formula to work this out?
It's is because the Batteries are 3,400 mah (3.4 ah ) and they are in series so the overall capacity does not go up, Just the voltage does.. If the 5 Batteries were all in Parallel then the total pack capacity would be 17,000 mah (17 ah) but with only a single cell voltage.. This is how most portable battery banks are arranged.. (In Parallel)
@@keylitho Thanks for this mate! I understand this now from your explaination. Thanks for replying.. I did'nt realise that the max continuous amp current supplied by the individual cells also made a difference. All this stuff is good to know.. Cheers mate & stay safe!
When i bought a battery for my vape device, it had a 20amp continuous discharge max rate, i think those cells would have been ideal for your purpose! so many different 18650 batteries on the market!
Just wondering if you could see which cells are dead and just replace those rather then the whole pack if just one cell goes dead the whole pack will die might be a lot cheaper
That Dewalt Lithium-Ion battery pack is smallest Dewalt has to offer. You can purchase a brand new 2.0 battery pack on Ebay for about 35 dollars. So in my view it is not worth going through all that effort to do what you did.
Ebay Junk cheap low quality Batteries cant compare to the Panasonic batteries he installed, So Educate before you speak, I can get 20aaa batteries for $2 at family dollar, They're 1.5v just like an energizer, Why don't I but them, Because 1 energizer will outlast all 20 Fam Dol batteries and not leak acid all over my new flashlight, remote, Or in your Case Dildo vibrator!!!.... Great job this kid did making this a better battery than can be purchased anywhere!!!...Bravo!
Can you make one of these videos that takes a dead pack and converts it to corded utilizing the dead pack casing? I'm interested in getting more of the MAX series of tools, however, I have concerns about buying battery tools because of the fact that manufacturers could discontinue batteries and/or accessories for corded tools at any time, leaving your current tools (which, if taken care of, work perfectly fine) absolutely useless once the batteries die completely. My thought was to create a corded adapter that plugs in to a standard 120V AC Outlet that could convert my battery tools into corded tools.
Very handy, especially when you have a existend Li-Ion pack where everything is already in place such as the balance wires and the ability to use the charger the drill is come with. I've done the same thing with a 18V Parkside cordless drill which had 15 dead Ni-Cad cells. I've rebuild the pack and add balance wires and a volt meter with alarm to warn me when to stop using the drill and balance charge it with a SkyRC imax B6 mini charger. However, I've used 5 LG ICR18650HE4 2500mAh cells which are capable of drawing 20 amps. Those Panasonic cells you used are very nice and high quality japanese cells, but they are not rated for high current draw. Those are designed for use in laptops etc. The spec sheet says: "Maximum NCR18650B discharge amp limit is 6.7 Amps under continuous current load". This is way too low for a cordless drill who can draw a lot more. Those nice Panasonics are not going to have a long life.. My Parkside works wonderfull with the LG's. However, I've ordered those LG cells with the spot welded tags option so I didn't have to solder directly on the cells. Li-Ion cells don't like high temps, they can be damaged easily which is especially noticeable after a while..
There are several components to battery repairing. One resource I found that successfully combines these is the Magic Mender Wizard (google it if you're interested) definately the best info that I've seen. look at this awesome site.
The kobalt batteries are 10$ and have Samsung cells. I don't think you can buy them individually for close to that price. When my dewalt batteries go out I hope lowes is still selling their kobalt batteries for 10$. I remember some brand I thought it was dewalt had a part of the computer that would detect low voltage and dud the battery for good to prevent possible fire. I hope I have the brand wrong and they didn't switch the design.
I have 2 of these Dewalt 1.5 ma lithium ion batteries that are dying, which Kobalt batteries would you buy that would work in the Dewalt battery housing,the same ah or the ones that are the same dimension wise ? Did you fix any of your Dewalt battery packs with Kobalt battery pack individual batteries ? Seems like a good idea.
First clean the surfaces with an electronic cleaner www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=zg_bs_15719001_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RRCPEBJ08F6RPTVE5BM9#customerReviews Then use a no clean flux on the piece: smile.amazon.com/Liquid-Flux-No-Clean-10ml-0-34oz/dp/B07B53LNGX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=12MK9AQ1RT3DX&dchild=1&keywords=no+clean+flux&qid=1609352193&s=hi&sprefix=no+clean+%2Caps%2C185&sr=1-4#customerReviews
The cells in the battery pack are rated for a whopping 30a draw. yours have a max 6a, however they will degrade very fast at max and are happier at 1-2. Should have a disclaimer. I understand that some tools may be fine under light working condition but even a drill can spike it above safe working conditions and this is an unprotected battery. which means they blow up. you have the energy density of a hand grenade in your hand. Use your brain. I own tools that torque out with one bad original cell. At least get something designed for high output and is protected. Just an opinion
I bought 2 original Makita 2.0 mAh packs for 25$ each. I think Dewalt batteries have a similar price on sale to those, so I don't see the point in rebuilding batteries.
+rimmersbryggeri Pretty sure there is no protection circuit in these cells.. I have protected cells and they are bigger than these.. The Dewalt case was just a bit tight.. I have ran across other batteries from different manufactures that vary from the 65mm spec... I have added a link to the spec sheet from panasonic in the description.
4.0 volts is better than 4.2, your batteries will last 4x as long. lifted below: Every 0.1V drop below 4.20V/cell doubles the cycle; the retained capacity drops accordingly. Raising the voltage above 4.20V/cell stresses the battery and compromises safety. 4.3v - 150-250 cycles 4.2v - 300-500 cycles 4.1v - 600-1000 cycles 4.0v - 1,200-2,000 cycles (however some say the initial charge should be 4.20-4.21)
Dead pack for $5 bucks off eBay ... I like the choice of top shelf battery replacement; Panasonic 18650 3400 mha ... Question: what kinda shape was those Samsung 18650; comments pls... NOTE: Purpose for details about the utility remaining available to be taken advantage of in a multi-multi-cell battery pack powering an electric bicycle or diy powered skateboard
Usually the higher the capacity of the battery, the lower the discharge rate. So manufacturers use lower capacity batteries in order to get that extra discharge rate. These 1.5 ah batteries will drain in 5 minutes when used with a high drain tool like an angle grinder (DCG412). However, with a low drain tool like a drill, the battery that Keylitho made will be just fine. In larger batteries that have two sets of five cells arranged in parallel, you can use higher capacity, slower drain cells since you get twice the current when you connect batteries in parallel. So essentially you can get 4 times the capacity for twice the size. I hope this helped.
Daniel D'Andrea - In order to get 20 volts you need a minimum of five batteries. Then in order to get 3 to 5 amp hours you need to run another five in parallel. So this means a minimum of 10 batteries the size of an 18650. The only way they could make the battery pack smaller and still have 3 to 5 amp hours would be to lower the voltage. You could have a 16 volt battery pack using 8 cells. Or a 12 volt battery pack using 6 cells. This reduces overall power, though.
Needed to choose a higher current sourcing battery without protection. Dewalt doesn't want to charge to 4.2 volts because it shortens battery life, they prefer you to purchase a spare battery and swap them out as you work all day, they charge pretty quick. Just look for a deal on real Dewalt batteries this christmas, two 3.0 Ah 60Wh batteries for $99, I can't buy the16850s for that price. Sure it's fun to tinker, but be smart, make a visit to Battery University and learn about LI batteries before you start a project.
Interestingly enough, the larger the iron you use, the less chance of damaging the cells since the heat is transferred locally almost instantly. I have a giant 150 watt iron (Ungar 3200) that solders batteries with just a quick tack.
You can quickly pull a lot of the heat out of those solder joints by having a damp rag or paper towel nearby. Within a few seconds of finishing, just dab it on the joint. This will definitely reduce the amount of heat that will soak into the battery chemistry itself without hurting the solder joint.
B+ and B- are the positive and negative terminals. C1, C2, C3 and C4 are for cell balancing, they are connected to each of the 4 connections in between the cells. Cell balancing is only done while charging so C1 - C4 are not connected to anything in the tool, but only in the charger. TH is for the built in thermal sensor, to sense if the cells are heating up too much because of either too high charging or discharging current, so the charger or tool can turn off until the battery cools down a bit. ID must be an identification pin, maybe to distinguish between slim packs and fat back with different Ah ratings, so the charger can charger larger capacity batteries with more amperage without overloading them and then put out less amperage for smaller Ah batteries. The DeWALT XR batteries are not intelligent batteries with cell balancing circuit built in. Instead it's built into the charger. Some other power tool brands has built more intelligence into each cell so they don't need as many connector pins between the battery pack and charger or tool.
thats on the tool side....ive made these work with a 18v mastercraft impact using just the + and - terminals. worked great until it cracked apart the anvil housing.
The reason those batteries are a bit longer are because they are protected batteries, which you didn't need, because the battery probably has a protection circuit in the battery . read up here www.18650batterystore.com/products/panasonic-18650-protected
They were not protected cells.. they were only about 1/16" longer.. the ones in that link say they are 69.41mm tall that's almost .25" longer... And after others have commented that I measured the Cells.. I think the Dewalt batteries were just a tad smaller.
PSA These batteries are only rated at 4.87Amp www.batteryjunction.com/panasonic-ncr18650b-3400.html. Recommended to use greater than 20 amp cells on a power pack. A standard dewalt brushless drill (DCD791) uses around 20-30 amps under full load!!! These cells will not be able to hold that power before damaging the cells and/or causing fire. i have seen it personally!!! If you are going to rebuild packs, use properly rated cells!!!!! Great vid otherwise!
Yea I hear you...The dewalt tools wont try to pull the amps in they are not there the tool just stops.. It works in the drill just fine, anything else not so great it just stops.. That being said I have used this for almost 5 years and it is still a great pack.. But I mainly use it with my hand held area light. (DCL050) it lasts a very long time for the size.. also with the USB charger and the Radio.. It has many great uses.
@@keylitho i deed with light loads it will last a long time. But for many it comes across as a cheap fix for repairing tool batteries that will see heavy use. I rebuild these as well and have seen what happens with under rated cells first hand. But for light loads those cells work just fine. 👍
Wherever you can get the cells.. But after you rebuild a battery you will like it way more than one you just bought.. You will have pride in that battery.
That why I said wherever you can get the cells from.. I just think people should not be afraid to rebuild stuff.
5 років тому
THIS IS A VERY BAD IDEA PEOPLE!!! DONT DO THE SAME Those cells are not designed for power tools and if you use them under load you will either ruin them or cause fire etc etc
+W. Tseng There are several factors in getting a good result. One place I found that succeeds in merging these is the Magic Mender Wizard (google it if you're interested) without a doubt the best course that I have ever heard of. Check out this incredible site.
interesting points ,if anyone else is searching for how to recondition batteries try Trefendous Rapid Extender Tips (just google it ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my partner got amazing success with it.
Do not do this. High power tools need high discharge batteries that while having lower mAh per battery have CDR. If you want to open a battery pack and replace the batteries which IMO is not safe at all, it's important to use the same batteries if possible or one with a similar CDR.
I have been repacking li-ion batteries from power tools for over 5 years. Different brands and different tools. They have all worked perfectly with peak performance. The only battery that can't be repacked is Makita. They have a protection circuit which kills the battery board.
The user must have appropriate understanding of lithium ion batteries before purchase. Use caution when working with and using lithium ion batteries as they are very sensitive to charging characteristics and may explode, burn, or cause a fire if misused or mishandled....NEVER SOLDER BATTERIES MAY EXPLODE. SPOT WELD ONLY
Dewalt battery life is a awful way over priced. Could you put them in parallel let them come back to a chargeable level. But the Ebay batteries are very cost effective and last longer.
Yea probably... But works just fine with the drill and now that I have had it for 4+ years I really only use it with the work light.. and it still works great.
Also very dangerous using a regular soldering iron to do this. This is NOT the proper way to do this. Another misinformation video. And just because it has a higher mah rating and the voltage reads out right it most likely wont have the current amps that the tool requires.
I agree, do NOT ever solder the nickel strips back together on the cell. It may damage the cell internally. There's a reason why manufacturer uses spot weld. I, myself, repair and revive all power tool lithium ion batteries and I always spot weld the nickle strips.
interesting points ,if anyone else is searching for how to recondition batteries try Trefendous Rapid Extender Tips (just google it ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my partner got amazing success with it.
leefiles Not necessarily. Lithium batteries charge to 4.2 volts so you start with 21 volts, then go through 20 volts and on down to 18. The AVERAGE voltage of a cell is usually considered to be 3.7 volts which is where 18 volts comes from. It also comes from the old NiCad or NiMH cells of 1.2 volts x 15. DEWALT is not in error. They choose to think of LiIon cells as 4.00 volts which they are for a while and certainly above 18v for most of the charge as the cell declines to the quite unofficial “average” of 3.7v.
Welder Musk Actually they offered “20 volt max” products long before the brushless motor products came out. I own a lot of these 20 volt max tools. The brushless motor products are just a natural evolution in motor technology.
Thanks for the video but I really don't recommend to do this, it's a waste of time and it's better to buy a new one more powerful, don't do it, believe me.
I get the bauer packs from harbor freight and take the guts out of them and put in the dewalt packs. You have to solder the old board onto the new pack even though the bauer is almost identical it still won't work with a 20v tool or charge unless you swap the guts over.
For any future views who want to know, the 18650 in these cells is the sanyo UR18650RX. The identifier is not printed in ink, it is embossed ever so slightly in the heatshrink.
interesting points ,if anyone else wants to uncover recondition old batteries try Jons Mender Guide (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some great things about it and my work buddy got excellent success with it.
Came here to look for this info exactly. Thank you.
You should have opted for 2.5Ah high current cells instead. Much safer as those cells are made to high currents and tool will perform much better. Pack may work on the drill. But may not have as high torque as when using high current cells.
Yea Probably should have used higher current cells.. But It works good enough for me and I mostly use it for the Flashlight and USB adapter that Dewalt makes. Although I did use it till dead driving deck screws in shortly after I made this.. It was good until about 80% dead then started to slow down.. Still lasted way longer than the other packs I have.
I agree, but there are a few Dewalt devices that don't need high current cells. For the top power tools they are of course needed. Using a single row of cells in a high power tool will certainly make a burn.
If you use good cells that can discharge at 20 Amps or more, those nice little solder joints become resistors and will melt. They don't solder for a good reason. Ever wonder why your household (in wall ) wiring are not soldered? No, they're not. They are crimped or screwed together. Or else they become single-use wiring.
Super late reply, but I want to add - solder's fault isn't its conductivity compared to copper - the problem lies in properly using it. Butting two conductors near each other and bridging with solder isn't ever ideal, particularly in stressful environments. You should always mechanically attach two conductors, then solder. Long ago, house wiring *was* often soldered, although this was only after the wire was mechanically secured and twisted in the splice.
The battery tab on some tool batteries is simply soldered into the circuit board, too. Never removed one, but they seem to have decent contact area and a large blob of solder.
They aren’t soldered to the battery purely to avoid putting excessive heat into it during manufacturing. It can damage the cells or even explode.
Nice video. I'll add that the likely issue with the battery size is that they included protection circuits on each cell. If you buy them without that option they'll be the same size (the protection should be handled by the battery pack electronics so this isn't a problem).
these Panasonic cells can only discharge at about 5Amp maximum current. you should use power lithium-ion batteries like Samsung 30Q or LG HE4 cells, they can dischage at 20Amp current.
+Jing Zhang Yea probably should have... It work's just fine with the drill.. I used the battery a few weekends ago to build a deck and It would drive the deck screws till the last drop of power and it did last way way longer than the dewalt pack.
You need to use a spot welder for these. Not solder.
Solder makes battery temp reach over 400°f - 450°f
Spot welding 90°f - 100°f
Have I done it?
Well yeah. You get less resistance too with spot welding.
Nice guide! Charging to 4.0- 4.1v per cell does 2 things: 1, it would take far longer to re-charge the packs to 4.2. Users wouldn't be happy with the long charge time. 2, the cells life will be far longer charging to 4.0-4.1 than a full 4.2 charge. Also, not fully discharging improves cell life. As vuaeco says below, Pana. high capacity cells aren't ideal for fast discharge. Unfortunately, high discharge cells only come in 1.5- 2.5 Ah. That's why Dewalt uses more cells to make higher capacity, not higher capacity cells. Users hate the huge packs, but that's the only reliable way of having a high capacity pack.
The model B cell has a protection circuit built in. You can buy this cell without the protection circuit and it should actually be the standard 650 cell length.
Jeremy Siess - No, that's not correct. The major battery companies never add protection circuitry. That is only done buy aftermarket companies. So you can buy those Panasonic NCR18650B's with or without protection circuitry.
@@JasonWW2000 No these Jeremy is right the model B does have the protection circuit in them, Mechanical mod users for e-cigarettes use these batteries all the time because of the built in circuit protection. They are just a tad longer.
@@jeffdewe I think your misunderstanding what he and I are saying. When the cell comes out of the Panasonic factory it will never have protection circuitry. If you see a Panasonic cell with protection circuitry you know it was added by a 3rd party supplier who sourced it from some other company and then rewrapped the cell. So they can be found with many different protection circuits added. They will vary in shut off voltage (2.2v-2.5v), vary in maximum charge voltage (4.21v-4.24v), vary in upper temperature limit (may not even have this protection feature) and vary in maximum discharge amperage (3A-15A).
This is why you see protected cells with so many different specs. The little protection boards are made by lots of companies and you have to rely on the store your buying the battery from to tell what the protection circuitry specs are.
I hope that clears up any misunderstandings.
@@jeffdewe One more thing, factory 18650, 21700 and 26650 cells (unprotected) do typically include a few basic safety devices built in. These are not on an added circuit board, they are built in and have no effect on length.
The first is a fusible link that protects against a direct short. If it has it and it does short directly, this link will blow preventing a fire. The battery is damaged beyond repair and needs to be properly disposed of.
The second is a membrane designed to burst if pressure builds up inside the cell. Instead of it exploding like a pipe bomb due to high pressure, the membrane will break and the cell will outgas. Like above, the battery is damaged beyond repair and needs to be properly disposed of.
@@JasonWW2000 They are protected batteries I owned like 6 of them in the past when I was vaping with a mech mod, They are indeed a bit longer due to extras in them.
Very Good Rebuild battery
Awesome video! Man, doubling the battery capacity and not making the battery any heavier. 18650 batteries are even better now since you made this video too.. and cheaper! I will NEVER buy another new DeWalt battery again!
Current 3 ah battery can be found for under $100 for a two pack with better 21700 cells. Goes on sale at times for $79. This video was neat, but probably easier and better to just buy from DeWalt during sales.
Bit is called pin in torx or for allen screws, pin in hex.
nice rebuild ! the BMS are inside the charger not in the battery and this help a lot to rebuild. but I don't know if it is good to the pack because there is no equalization in use. only when charging. anyway nice work!
Hi,
Thanks for the video.
Any advice on who or how to rebuild an 18V Dewalt lithium? I dropped one in a full rain barrel over two years ago. It's held a solid 19V of charge in the lithium cells since then--- and none of them are damaged. However, the circuitry reset or was destroyed, so the charger registers it as faulty.
I would open it up and see if there is any corrosion on the the board anywhere and make sure the contacts aren't rusted and if there are no obvious signs of damage then maybe buy a dead battery from ebay and just replace your circuits with the ones from the dead battery.
nice repair always learning
DeWalt chooses to not go over 4.0v per cell, because the cells last MUCH longer. You really don't lost much capacity from 4.2 to 4.0, because the cells drop to 4.0 or lower the first 20 seconds of using the drill. DeWalt was very wise to go 20V max.
And the voltage drops to 18 under load
Can you please advise?
Was there only the pos. and neg. to connect to the battery pack? The battery shows 5 connections,,are the other 3 not connected? Usually they are connected to give battery condition and temperature references back to charger, is there no on board circuitry,PCB, in battery?
Grateful for any answers from anyone reading comment.
How did this work out long term? Does the battery still work ok?
Still going strong... I really only use it with my work light..
@@keylitho I’m glad it’s still
Working! I’ll definitely try this. Although I’m sure prices have gone up now 😞
I have been thinking about doing the same thing but are those rated for the amps needed I was looking at some that are 3200 mah that have like 20a and 40a discharge rates but the lg 3000mAh are a lot more cost effective
its actually hilarious dewalt went through all that trouble to use non standard 18650 batteries so its harder to replace them xD
Drill batteries should give a minimum of 20 amps instantaneously. The battery you are using does not give 20 amperes instantly !!
Depends on the load and time used but if this is for a friend that doesn't understand batteries then yes
So how have these batteries gone long term? You mentioned they werent being fully charged so are they lasting longer and have the same power with the new cells?
Don't use these cells. They're pretty inappropriate for the application - In particular, the dewalt charger is too fast.
The reduced charge voltage is just a choice by dewalt, and is appropriate. They are being fully charged.
You need the DeWalt fast charger for the higher amperage battery.
Shouldn’t you charge and balance your cells first? That’s likely the reason you can’t get to 4.2v. When one sense wire reaches max voltage it stops charging all of them.
The cells should be close in voltage.. like plus or minus .1v And I am pretty sure the dewalt charger doesn't charge to 4.2v.. Probably for longer cell life.
@@keylitho Yes, something else I read said that max voltage for DeWALT is around 4v… but they also said 0.1v is too much variance. It’s not like we’re building a new battery here so, like you, I think 0.1v is close enough for a rebuild.
@@keylitho Oh yeah… they call these “20v Max” battery packs in North America and the smallest ones have five cells in series, hence, 4v per cell “Max.” That seems to be what the other guy was referring to. Not sure if there is any overhead there, since “Max” is just a way to market a higher voltage instead of the 18v nominal voltage… supposedly to differentiate from their older line of NiCd-powered “18v” tools.
Do you think there would be an issue with trying to rebuild one of the Bluetooth packs?
What model 18650 batteries were used in the dewalt pack originally from factory?
I would have used some 20A cdr batteries instead of the less than 5A panasonic batteries in the video.
They use samsung INR 15R's in the 1.5Ah packs. Typically good quality mid-tier cells in dewalt packs.
Those panasonics are a terrible choice. Discharge current is not adequate, and charge current is unacceptable for dewalt fast chargers. Max charge speed for those cells is over an hour.
Great Video! Now you have a light 3.0ah pack instead of 2 cheap chinese 1.3ah(maybe) packs! In a practical working sense what you have is way better! Liked !!
What's the sizes of the bit to remove the screws from the battery or how I will search on Amazon..thanks
There is a link in the description.. any security bit set should have the right bit.
Would it not be 1.7amp after installing the 5 X 3400mah batteries? How did he come to the conclusion that its now a 3.4Amp hr battery? Whats the formula to work this out?
It's is because the Batteries are 3,400 mah (3.4 ah ) and they are in series so the overall capacity does not go up, Just the voltage does.. If the 5 Batteries were all in Parallel then the total pack capacity would be 17,000 mah (17 ah) but with only a single cell voltage.. This is how most portable battery banks are arranged.. (In Parallel)
@@keylitho Thanks for this mate! I understand this now from your explaination. Thanks for replying.. I did'nt realise that the max continuous amp current supplied by the individual cells also made a difference. All this stuff is good to know.. Cheers mate & stay safe!
When i bought a battery for my vape device, it had a 20amp continuous discharge max rate, i think those cells would have been ideal for your purpose! so many different 18650 batteries on the market!
You can buy new dewalt batteries with the fuel gauge with warranty for close to the same price.
Just wondering if you could see which cells are dead and just replace those rather then the whole pack if just one cell goes dead the whole pack will die might be a lot cheaper
Don't see why not... Just have to make sure the replacement cell is very close in capacity and Discharge amperage.
That Dewalt Lithium-Ion battery pack is smallest Dewalt has to offer. You can purchase a brand new 2.0 battery pack on Ebay for about 35 dollars. So in my view it is not worth going through all that effort to do what you did.
John L actually they have a 1.3ah battery that they couple with their low end drill but the 1.3's aren't too bad. They make a drill move fast.
Ebay Junk cheap low quality Batteries cant compare to the Panasonic batteries he installed, So Educate before you speak, I can get 20aaa batteries for $2 at family dollar, They're 1.5v just like an energizer, Why don't I but them, Because 1 energizer will outlast all 20 Fam Dol batteries and not leak acid all over my new flashlight, remote, Or in your Case Dildo vibrator!!!.... Great job this kid did making this a better battery than can be purchased anywhere!!!...Bravo!
john merlino Lmfao family dollar and dollar General batteries die in my tv remote in less than a week and energizes last years
john merlino you misunderstood man. You could buy that battery he rebuild for 35-40 new
@@billlee1724 he overpaid for those cells. You could do a comparable rebuild for cheaper. Also those cells are not great for a power tool pack.
Hi! Thinking about same upgrade. I do have high discharge cells.
Does this battery still works? How about charging? Still no problems with charging?
It still works great.. No problems..
Can you make one of these videos that takes a dead pack and converts it to corded utilizing the dead pack casing? I'm interested in getting more of the MAX series of tools, however, I have concerns about buying battery tools because of the fact that manufacturers could discontinue batteries and/or accessories for corded tools at any time, leaving your current tools (which, if taken care of, work perfectly fine) absolutely useless once the batteries die completely. My thought was to create a corded adapter that plugs in to a standard 120V AC Outlet that could convert my battery tools into corded tools.
For DeWalt you can buy the case that encloses the batteries for $15.
Anyone have a source for these batteries? Link in description is dead. Can we do this for Milwaukee batteries? Thx
what cell are red ? samsung?or lg?
A very good DIY video, Thank you for uploading it to UA-cam.
Very handy, especially when you have a existend Li-Ion pack where everything is already in place such as the balance wires and the ability to use the charger the drill is come with. I've done the same thing with a 18V Parkside cordless drill which had 15 dead Ni-Cad cells. I've rebuild the pack and add balance wires and a volt meter with alarm to warn me when to stop using the drill and balance charge it with a SkyRC imax B6 mini charger.
However, I've used 5 LG ICR18650HE4 2500mAh cells which are capable of drawing 20 amps. Those Panasonic cells you used are very nice and high quality japanese cells, but they are not rated for high current draw. Those are designed for use in laptops etc. The spec sheet says: "Maximum NCR18650B discharge amp limit is 6.7 Amps under continuous current load". This is way too low for a cordless drill who can draw a lot more. Those nice Panasonics are not going to have a long life..
My Parkside works wonderfull with the LG's. However, I've ordered those LG cells with the spot welded tags option so I didn't have to solder directly on the cells. Li-Ion cells don't like high temps, they can be damaged easily which is especially noticeable after a while..
There are several components to battery repairing. One resource I found that successfully combines these is the Magic Mender Wizard (google it if you're interested) definately the best info that I've seen. look at this awesome site.
The kobalt batteries are 10$ and have Samsung cells. I don't think you can buy them individually for close to that price. When my dewalt batteries go out I hope lowes is still selling their kobalt batteries for 10$. I remember some brand I thought it was dewalt had a part of the computer that would detect low voltage and dud the battery for good to prevent possible fire. I hope I have the brand wrong and they didn't switch the design.
I have 2 of these Dewalt 1.5 ma lithium ion batteries that are dying, which Kobalt batteries would you buy that would work in the Dewalt battery housing,the same ah or the ones that are the same dimension wise ? Did you fix any of your Dewalt battery packs with Kobalt battery pack individual batteries ? Seems like a good idea.
Your video save me a lot of money and time thank you
+Digitaldeath 187 How many amps battery. 3.4 A ?
Hey do you know which type of solder you used on this? I've been having a heck of a time getting the solder to stick onto the battery terminals.
First clean the surfaces with an electronic cleaner
www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=zg_bs_15719001_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RRCPEBJ08F6RPTVE5BM9#customerReviews
Then use a no clean flux on the piece:
smile.amazon.com/Liquid-Flux-No-Clean-10ml-0-34oz/dp/B07B53LNGX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=12MK9AQ1RT3DX&dchild=1&keywords=no+clean+flux&qid=1609352193&s=hi&sprefix=no+clean+%2Caps%2C185&sr=1-4#customerReviews
Use a battery welder.
The cells in the battery pack are rated for a whopping 30a draw. yours have a max 6a, however they will degrade very fast at max and are happier at 1-2. Should have a disclaimer. I understand that some tools may be fine under light working condition but even a drill can spike it above safe working conditions and this is an unprotected battery. which means they blow up. you have the energy density of a hand grenade in your hand. Use your brain. I own tools that torque out with one bad original cell. At least get something designed for high output and is protected. Just an opinion
What is the name / designation of that security bit?
Pretty sure if you just search Security Torx Bit's you will find tones of options.. They are sold it sets.
I bought 2 original Makita 2.0 mAh packs for 25$ each. I think Dewalt batteries have a similar price on sale to those, so I don't see the point in rebuilding batteries.
Capacity overall should have been close to double
SONY VTC5 18650 3.7V 2600mAh ( 30A Discharger
Can we say ...
Makita....
Did someone deconstruct a Makita
Great video I've been waiting for one on dewalt
Waoooo good job
You have protected cells there, 18700 Or I guess that is what the 18650B stands for they are longer because of the protection circuit,
+rimmersbryggeri Pretty sure there is no protection circuit in these cells.. I have protected cells and they are bigger than these.. The Dewalt case was just a bit tight.. I have ran across other batteries from different manufactures that vary from the 65mm spec... I have added a link to the spec sheet from panasonic in the description.
You got a much cleaner weld than I did hahaha
Hey what type of cells where in the battery before you put the news ones in.
+Tj Greene I am not sure I don't think they had any markings on them..
I believe Dewalt use Sanyo batteries. Panasonic brought Sanyo 6/7 years ago so they are likely to be good.
Yes all red cells with a blue top like these are Sanyo cells.
Sanyo 20700
Michael Sabatini - definitely not 20700. These are 18650.
Dewalt are using different chemistry check lifepo4 a123 and you’ll find out that they are nominal 3.6 V and that lithium is 4.2 v
4.0 volts is better than 4.2, your batteries will last 4x as long.
lifted below:
Every 0.1V drop below 4.20V/cell doubles the cycle; the retained capacity drops accordingly. Raising the voltage above 4.20V/cell stresses the battery and compromises safety.
4.3v - 150-250 cycles
4.2v - 300-500 cycles
4.1v - 600-1000 cycles
4.0v - 1,200-2,000 cycles
(however some say the initial charge should be 4.20-4.21)
Easier than I thought, thanks!
Dead pack for $5 bucks off eBay ...
I like the choice of top shelf battery replacement; Panasonic 18650 3400 mha ...
Question: what kinda shape was those Samsung 18650; comments pls...
NOTE: Purpose for details about the utility remaining available to be taken advantage of in a multi-multi-cell battery pack powering an electric bicycle or diy powered skateboard
The cells in the pack were at 0.1 volts.. :)
0.1volts ... well can't get much from those ... eh
Thanks for the reply
Awesome :)
Never use a soldering iron to weld battery cells. The right tool is a spot welder.
Hello! It was 1.5 AH, after battery replacement as it became the Academy of Sciences?
Thankyou for share.
why doesnt dewalt do this from the factory? their 3-5ah batteries are so big and heavy!
Usually the higher the capacity of the battery, the lower the discharge rate. So manufacturers use lower capacity batteries in order to get that extra discharge rate. These 1.5 ah batteries will drain in 5 minutes when used with a high drain tool like an angle grinder (DCG412). However, with a low drain tool like a drill, the battery that Keylitho made will be just fine. In larger batteries that have two sets of five cells arranged in parallel, you can use higher capacity, slower drain cells since you get twice the current when you connect batteries in parallel. So essentially you can get 4 times the capacity for twice the size. I hope this helped.
+GEORGE ZARIFIS I see where you're getting that but no I but certain batteries it will not discharge that fastly
Do you even English, bro?
James Droddy lol
Daniel D'Andrea - In order to get 20 volts you need a minimum of five batteries. Then in order to get 3 to 5 amp hours you need to run another five in parallel. So this means a minimum of 10 batteries the size of an 18650.
The only way they could make the battery pack smaller and still have 3 to 5 amp hours would be to lower the voltage. You could have a 16 volt battery pack using 8 cells. Or a 12 volt battery pack using 6 cells. This reduces overall power, though.
Ave does a video on how to spot weld those tabs on the 18650s
Needed to choose a higher current sourcing battery without protection. Dewalt doesn't want to charge to 4.2 volts because it shortens battery life, they prefer you to purchase a spare battery and swap them out as you work all day, they charge pretty quick. Just look for a deal on real Dewalt batteries this christmas, two 3.0 Ah 60Wh batteries for $99, I can't buy the16850s for that price.
Sure it's fun to tinker, but be smart, make a visit to Battery University and learn about LI batteries before you start a project.
Soldering a battery do a lot of damage to a cell because of exess of heat thats why thez are spot welded
Yea Yea I know.. But I don't have a spot welder or the desire to build one.. So Hot and Fast.. you'll be fine..
Interestingly enough, the larger the iron you use, the less chance of damaging the cells since the heat is transferred locally almost instantly. I have a giant 150 watt iron (Ungar 3200) that solders batteries with just a quick tack.
Yeah, that little iron is WAY too small.
That’s why I built a spot welder from an old microwave oven transformer when I rebuilt my Dyson battery pack.
You can quickly pull a lot of the heat out of those solder joints by having a damp rag or paper towel nearby. Within a few seconds of finishing, just dab it on the joint. This will definitely reduce the amount of heat that will soak into the battery chemistry itself without hurting the solder joint.
Does anybody know what the TH and C3 terminals are on DeWalt batteries?
Pretty sure that's how the battery charger balances the cells.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_balancing
Keylitho Those terminals are used by the tool as well. If you only attach the positive and negative terminals the tool will not work.
Oh... Didn't know that... do you know what they use them for..?
B+ and B- are the positive and negative terminals.
C1, C2, C3 and C4 are for cell balancing, they are connected to each of the 4 connections in between the cells.
Cell balancing is only done while charging so C1 - C4 are not connected to anything in the tool, but only in the charger.
TH is for the built in thermal sensor, to sense if the cells are heating up too much because of either too high charging or discharging current, so the charger or tool can turn off until the battery cools down a bit.
ID must be an identification pin, maybe to distinguish between slim packs and fat back with different Ah ratings, so the charger can charger larger capacity batteries with more amperage without overloading them and then put out less amperage for smaller Ah batteries.
The DeWALT XR batteries are not intelligent batteries with cell balancing circuit built in. Instead it's built into the charger.
Some other power tool brands has built more intelligence into each cell so they don't need as many connector pins between the battery pack and charger or tool.
thats on the tool side....ive made these work with a 18v mastercraft impact using just the + and - terminals. worked great until it cracked apart the anvil housing.
anyone who watches AvE is thinking he should be putting tape over his wedding ring
Or wear a silicon one. One of the many reasons I've switched
nice video m8
You shouldn't solder on battery they need to be spot welded
Will you please buy me a spot welder so I can remake this video..?? :)
@@keylitho sure they are like 15$ bucks
The reason those batteries are a bit longer are because they are protected batteries, which you didn't need, because the battery probably has a protection circuit in the battery . read up here www.18650batterystore.com/products/panasonic-18650-protected
They were not protected cells.. they were only about 1/16" longer.. the ones in that link say they are 69.41mm tall that's almost .25" longer... And after others have commented that I measured the Cells.. I think the Dewalt batteries were just a tad smaller.
cool post...
Goes to show that not all batteries are created the same.
It may be 3.4 ah but still not last as long as a 3.0 pack size with double the cells.
5 bucks for that dewalt 1.5 ah?? that is a steal!
It was dead though.. Total pack voltage was at .02v I bought it to rebuild it.
oh dear lord I am so going there. those trash could be my treasure!!!
brilliant!
Didn't use flux
Yea totally should have.
PSA These batteries are only rated at 4.87Amp www.batteryjunction.com/panasonic-ncr18650b-3400.html. Recommended to use greater than 20 amp cells on a power pack. A standard dewalt brushless drill (DCD791) uses around 20-30 amps under full load!!! These cells will not be able to hold that power before damaging the cells and/or causing fire. i have seen it personally!!! If you are going to rebuild packs, use properly rated cells!!!!! Great vid otherwise!
Yea I hear you...The dewalt tools wont try to pull the amps in they are not there the tool just stops.. It works in the drill just fine, anything else not so great it just stops.. That being said I have used this for almost 5 years and it is still a great pack.. But I mainly use it with my hand held area light. (DCL050) it lasts a very long time for the size.. also with the USB charger and the Radio.. It has many great uses.
@@keylitho i deed with light loads it will last a long time. But for many it comes across as a cheap fix for repairing tool batteries that will see heavy use. I rebuild these as well and have seen what happens with under rated cells first hand. But for light loads those cells work just fine. 👍
I think it was better to just buy a kobalt battery there 10 bucks for 1.5aH
rebuild the dewalt battery with those
Wherever you can get the cells.. But after you rebuild a battery you will like it way more than one you just bought.. You will have pride in that battery.
35 bucks for those cells are a waste of time and money
the knock offs costs the same or less
That why I said wherever you can get the cells from.. I just think people should not be afraid to rebuild stuff.
THIS IS A VERY BAD IDEA PEOPLE!!! DONT DO THE SAME
Those cells are not designed for power tools and if you use them under load you will either ruin them or cause fire etc etc
all your link are dead
Thanks... I updated them..
+W. Tseng There are several factors in getting a good result. One place I found that succeeds in merging these is the Magic Mender Wizard (google it if you're interested) without a doubt the best course that I have ever heard of. Check out this incredible site.
interesting points ,if anyone else is searching for how to recondition batteries try Trefendous Rapid Extender Tips (just google it ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my partner got amazing success with it.
all your batteries are belong to us !
Great vid. Save some $
Do not do this. High power tools need high discharge batteries that while having lower mAh per battery have CDR. If you want to open a battery pack and replace the batteries which IMO is not safe at all, it's important to use the same batteries if possible or one with a similar CDR.
I have been repacking li-ion batteries from power tools for over 5 years. Different brands and different tools. They have all worked perfectly with peak performance. The only battery that can't be repacked is Makita. They have a protection circuit which kills the battery board.
The user must have appropriate understanding of lithium ion batteries before purchase. Use caution when working with and using lithium ion batteries as they are very sensitive to charging characteristics and may explode, burn, or cause a fire if misused or mishandled....NEVER SOLDER BATTERIES MAY EXPLODE. SPOT WELD ONLY
That’s because your Cells are protected with a circuit
?? You mean the Cells..? There is no protection on those cells..
Keylitho, yeah have you taken the wrap off those cell?
no I didn't...But oh well even if they are this is still a great pack and still going strong.
Keylitho yeah newer more capacity definitely
Dewalt battery life is a awful way over priced. Could you put them in parallel let them come back to a chargeable level.
But the Ebay batteries are very cost effective and last longer.
I was going to buy a larger battery but I may follow this guy and buy a dead battery and rebuild lol
You can buy a new 2ah battery for $35
For sure, now... But not 5 years ago when I uploaded this video.. :)
Forth at money you could of just bought a new one
Now?.. yes... but in early 2016..?
1:30 what if both of your batteries were bad
Terrible cell choice for a tool battery. Those are not discharging fast enough...
Yea probably... But works just fine with the drill and now that I have had it for 4+ years I really only use it with the work light.. and it still works great.
Why bother? I can buy brand new DeWalt XR 2AH for $20!
Not in March of 2016 when I made this video.. :)
those batteries look expensive
fairuz wahab - Maybe about $5-$6 each for a good high capacity Japanese 18650.
39 dislike because they work at the dewalt battery factory.
thats the knock off batt they are bigger
The link might be.. I am not sure about the ones I bought.. But they seem to work ok.. time will tell..
in Canada we say SOLDER not SODER.
Also very dangerous using a regular soldering iron to do this. This is NOT the proper way to do this. Another misinformation video. And just because it has a higher mah rating and the voltage reads out right it most likely wont have the current amps that the tool requires.
I agree, do NOT ever solder the nickel strips back together on the cell. It may damage the cell internally. There's a reason why manufacturer uses spot weld. I, myself, repair and revive all power tool lithium ion batteries and I always spot weld the nickle strips.
well, no BMS, its gonna die soon........
There is a BMS right behind the terminals.. You can see the small black wires connected.
Your math is off let's see 35 plus 5 is 35????
The Maths are funest.
interesting points ,if anyone else is searching for how to recondition batteries try Trefendous Rapid Extender Tips (just google it ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my partner got amazing success with it.
If your house wiring gets hot enough to melt solder you'll probably find its pretty close to burning down
Dewalt's 20 volt battery pack has 5 batteries. Milwaulkee's 18 volt battery pack has 5 batteries. Dewalt is exaggerating. 3.6 volts X 5 = 18 volts
leefiles Not necessarily. Lithium batteries charge to 4.2 volts so you start with 21 volts, then go through 20 volts and on down to 18. The AVERAGE voltage of a cell is usually considered to be 3.7 volts which is where 18 volts comes from. It also comes from the old NiCad or NiMH cells of 1.2 volts x 15. DEWALT is not in error. They choose to think of LiIon cells as 4.00 volts which they are for a while and certainly above 18v for most of the charge as the cell declines to the quite unofficial “average” of 3.7v.
20 volt is a marketing name for brushless tools
Welder Musk Actually they offered “20 volt max” products long before the brushless motor products came out. I own a lot of these 20 volt max tools. The brushless motor products are just a natural evolution in motor technology.
these are €50 new😂
Yea but only 1.5ah not 3.. That's what I was going for here was a drill battery that is greater capacity.
+Keylitho aha okay then
Thanks for the video but I really don't recommend to do this, it's a waste of time and it's better to buy a new one more powerful, don't do it, believe me.
It's not a waste of time if you love taking shit apart..
@@keylitho always learning