I’m on 38’s and needed to do partial tub up front. I’m forward 2” and 5-1/2” wider running Marlin Crawler RCLT. Lots of work but well worth the effort depends on what you want to be able to wheel. Happy trails.
2013 taco here I have 35/12.5/17 yoko geos on 17x9 -38 offset. Fenders trimed 2in, cmr, hammered fire wall and fender well. No sway bar. I rub in parts of fender well with wheel turned and stuffed. I go to the Rubicon regularly as I live close. I want 37's for a little more clearance but realize tubing is a most.
Thanks for your perspective. It sounds like for most of the poeple, including myself, that do part time offroading and mostly on road driving, 35s are the better option.. 37s have more cons than pros for people like me.
Hey bro we need to compare notes - I’m running LT suspension . But I know we have similar components and I wheeled Moab on 38/12.5/17 and had minimal rubbing - need to get together for lunch and look things over … I do have a 1” body lift and I’m wondering if this is what’s making the difference. Awesome video as always
Thanks bro. I feel like with LT you are pushing the tire out of the well more, so less hitting? Once the inner fenders has been hit back a bit. The 1 inch body mount is key. I have been considering it. I'm on the fence because of my intermediate shaft, it's shorter than stock. I have to do more research on it. And after this trip I'm thinking about getting heavier weight springs. 650 or 700, need to research that also. Thanks for the feedback.
@@nielcabrera5575 I feel like a 1 inch is reasonable and serves a purpose for clearance in the front. Any more than that I would not consider. Some people will still give you shit about it thou.
@@ClassyTacos yeah I think that’s why I haven’t had the common clearance issues. Input in the body lift day 1 and it helps with geometry and I’m pretty sure with rubbing etc.
@@nicholasgilson1412 the fiberglass has very little to do with the opening in the wheel wells with regard to inner fender and firewall. They will still need to have work done to them to properly fit 37 and up. Its not just throwing glass at it and you’re done.
What are your thoughts on a skinnier 37 and less offset. For example a 37x11.5 on a 17x8 with 0 offset. Would that still require as much cutting and hammering and need for a tundra rack? I currently have 35s with a drt fab cmr. Thanks!
I hear nothing but good things from the skinnies. Would still require a ton of work for the 37s. Think of the skinny as the best all around lighter and thinner. Consider with the skinny I believe you will get less flex on the side wall. The tundra rack has its pros and cons. The turn radius is less, so tight places turn into a 17 point turn. Not very noticeable in every day driving just parking lots and u turns. Switch backs can be a pain in the ass. Thanks for watching.
The -38 is a killer on the back inner fender. My idea of ideal my be a little different than most. For me ideal is the wheels and tires I want to run and make everything else fit. Im currently on -24 offset with a 1.25 spacer. If you're going to 37s be prepared for a ton of work to the inner fenders, rear fender/fire wall area and at the very least a cab mount relocation. It's no easy task getting 37s in there properly. Thanks for watching.
@@truthseeker8123 It will help, but the front under the headlights and the firewall will still need attention. At full lock in each direction bumped they will rub.
Great video. I have a few questions if you don't mind. Any update with more cutting or hammering ? What offset wheels and size spacer are you running? Are you comparing a geolandar g003 - 35 / 12.5 /17 vs 37 / 12.5/ 17 ?
Thanks, I'm always hitting and hammering here and there. Offset on the wheels is -24, 1 1/4 inch spacer. Yes, comparing 37s and 35s both are 12.50 on 17s. Both wheels have the same -24 offset. Thanks for watching.
My shop > www.amazon.com/shop/classytacos
Thanks for watching!
Hit that subscribe button to stay up to date on all my videos!
I think a 36'' tire would be the ticket in some cases but hardly anyone makes it.. back in the day they were more common instead of 35'' ..
Ya, I think Super Swamper still makes a 36 but the tread is terrible for the street. Thanks for watching.
I’m on 38’s and needed to do partial tub up front. I’m forward 2” and 5-1/2” wider running Marlin Crawler RCLT. Lots of work but well worth the effort depends on what you want to be able to wheel. Happy trails.
Appreciate the feed back, thank you. Always depends on what you wheel and how you drive.
2013 taco here I have 35/12.5/17 yoko geos on 17x9 -38 offset. Fenders trimed 2in, cmr, hammered fire wall and fender well. No sway bar. I rub in parts of fender well with wheel turned and stuffed. I go to the Rubicon regularly as I live close. I want 37's for a little more clearance but realize tubing is a most.
Ys, if you're rubbing now on 35s, the 37s are going to rub even more. Thanks for watching.
Great info, thanks! I am sticking with 35s for a while. Haha!
Thanks for watching.
Just found your channel today, Idk your name but you bring Uncle Mike vibes. I love your vids
Thanks man, appreciate it.
Thanks for your perspective. It sounds like for most of the poeple, including myself, that do part time offroading and mostly on road driving, 35s are the better option.. 37s have more cons than pros for people like me.
Any time, thanks for the feed back.
Your channel is awesome. Gives me hope doing my own installs. Semper Fi
Thank you very much. Appreciate it.
I have slight rub at full flex off-road I’m on a 6” on 38s
Do you have any vids up of you off-roading posted up any where?
Hey bro we need to compare notes - I’m running LT suspension . But I know we have similar components and I wheeled Moab on 38/12.5/17 and had minimal rubbing - need to get together for lunch and look things over … I do have a 1” body lift and I’m wondering if this is what’s making the difference. Awesome video as always
Thanks bro. I feel like with LT you are pushing the tire out of the well more, so less hitting? Once the inner fenders has been hit back a bit. The 1 inch body mount is key. I have been considering it. I'm on the fence because of my intermediate shaft, it's shorter than stock. I have to do more research on it. And after this trip I'm thinking about getting heavier weight springs. 650 or 700, need to research that also. Thanks for the feedback.
@@ClassyTacos yeah bro ! What about the body 1” lift? Thoughts on that?
@@nielcabrera5575 I feel like a 1 inch is reasonable and serves a purpose for clearance in the front. Any more than that I would not consider. Some people will still give you shit about it thou.
@@ClassyTacos yeah I think that’s why I haven’t had the common clearance issues. Input in the body lift day 1 and it helps with geometry and I’m pretty sure with rubbing etc.
Do you have a 3 inch or 6 inch lift on your set up ? I'm thinking on putting 37's on my 3rd gen too. those are really cool 37 tires you got.
I have a 3 inch lift. The 6inch lifts are more for show and you have to cut the front cross member.
Will I still have issues with fiberglass fenders
@@nicholasgilson1412 the fiberglass has very little to do with the opening in the wheel wells with regard to inner fender and firewall. They will still need to have work done to them to properly fit 37 and up. Its not just throwing glass at it and you’re done.
What are your thoughts on a skinnier 37 and less offset. For example a 37x11.5 on a 17x8 with 0 offset. Would that still require as much cutting and hammering and need for a tundra rack? I currently have 35s with a drt fab cmr. Thanks!
I hear nothing but good things from the skinnies. Would still require a ton of work for the 37s. Think of the skinny as the best all around lighter and thinner. Consider with the skinny I believe you will get less flex on the side wall. The tundra rack has its pros and cons. The turn radius is less, so tight places turn into a 17 point turn. Not very noticeable in every day driving just parking lots and u turns. Switch backs can be a pain in the ass. Thanks for watching.
What’s the ideal wheel offset/backspace for fitment on 37s? I’m Considering the move up from 35s lol. I’m currently -38 / 3.5BS.
The -38 is a killer on the back inner fender. My idea of ideal my be a little different than most. For me ideal is the wheels and tires I want to run and make everything else fit. Im currently on -24 offset with a 1.25 spacer. If you're going to 37s be prepared for a ton of work to the inner fenders, rear fender/fire wall area and at the very least a cab mount relocation. It's no easy task getting 37s in there properly. Thanks for watching.
How's the steering rack?
No issues so far. Other than less turning radius. No mechanical problems. Thanks for watching.
Did you end up hammering more and clearing it now?
I did hammer more. It has more clearance, still rubs at full flex. Thanks for watching.
You might need to step into air hammer territory. Brrraaaap
I been thinking about it. I feel like the attachments are too small. Thanks for watching.
1 inch wide head attachmemt would make fast work but a good old hammer is a nice work out haha
@@skateinspace Ok, I'll look for it. Thanks.
@@ClassyTacos I’m running +2 long travel. Would this eliminate the need to tub? I already have spacers since I did shock relocation in the rear
@@truthseeker8123 It will help, but the front under the headlights and the firewall will still need attention. At full lock in each direction bumped they will rub.
I wanted 37's on my Tacoma, so... I traded it out for a Gladiator and put 37's on it 😂
Proud of you, 👍
Great video. I have a few questions if you don't mind. Any update with more cutting or hammering ? What offset wheels and size spacer are you running? Are you comparing a geolandar g003 - 35 / 12.5 /17 vs 37 / 12.5/ 17 ?
Thanks, I'm always hitting and hammering here and there. Offset on the wheels is -24, 1 1/4 inch spacer. Yes, comparing 37s and 35s both are 12.50 on 17s. Both wheels have the same -24 offset. Thanks for watching.