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How To Rebuild Your Forks - 97-01 Honda CR250 | Fix Your Dirt Bike
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
- This is a step-by-step rebuild for '97-'01 Showa 47mm suspension forks. You will need a new set of fork seals before you start!
Tools You Will Need To Rebuild Your Forks Are:
- 50mm fork cap wrench (‘98) - amzn.to/3ymtjRI
- Compression rod stopper/holder
- 47mm fork seal driver - amzn.to/3zodYBn
- 21mm socket
- 32mm socket
- 17mm box wrench
- Needle nose pliers
- Torque wrench
- Breaker bar
- Pry bar
- Channel-lock pliers
- Level setting gauge - amzn.to/3sPYTWG
- Hammer
Get Your New '97-'01 Honda CR250 Seals & Bushings → amzn.to/3Bj5w76
Get Your Fork Oil Here → amzn.to/38pBxxz
Check out My New Merch! → bit.ly/FYDBMerch
You can find the who tool list and specs in the step-by-step instructions → bit.ly/9701forks
Front Suspension Specifications → bit.ly/9701crst...
The fork on the 1997-2001 CR250 are dual-chamber forks, which means the compression damper and the fork tube itself work together, and that means they have their own maintenance needs. These are more complicated than standard open or closed forks, but with patience, you can get it done. you will also need to know how to identify the spring rates, how much fluid goes where, and you can get all of that here: goo.gl/LoK2jX
The dirt bike is a 1997 Honda CR250. I would be rebuilding the original forks, but the rebound clickers broke off on both forks, and replacement fork cap assemblies are hard to find and way too expensive.
Instead, I found a set of 1998 forks on eBay for around $115 that I am going to show you how to rebuild.
The 1997 forks and the 1998 forks are the same, except for the way the fork cap assembly is connected to the fork compression unit and tube. The ‘97 fork has a cap the screws onto the OUTSIDE of the compression unit (damper) and uses a set screw to keep the cap in place.
This proved to be a problem for people because they would forget to tighten the set screw and strip out the fork tube… as I did…
So In ‘98, Honda changed the design to a fork cap that threads INTO the compression unit, then the compression unit threads into the fork tube.
So the only difference between a ‘97 and a ‘98-’01 fork is the fork cap assembly, other than that everything is the same as far as disassembly, maintenance, and reassembly goes.
Jump Around!
Intro - 0:00
Tools - 2:40
Tube Disassembly - 3:15
Fork Cap Service - 5:24
Damper Service - 7:15
Fork Tube Service - 8:03
Fork Tube Assembly - 10:07
Fork Fluid - 10:54
Fork Fluid Level Setting - 11:36
Fork Damper Assembly - 11:41
Fork Damper Install - 14:07
Get Some Parts → amzn.to/3gM6L6Z
Artist: Animals as Leaders
Album: The Joy of Motion
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#FixYourDirtBike #HondaCR250 #DirtBikeSuspension
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Thanks John! Was about to spend 250$ for a shop to do a fork seal replacement as the forks on my 2000 cr250r have been leaking a little, now I’m just going to do this whole rebuild my self you made it looks much less complicated than I thought it was
Stumbled across this.....awesome video with very clear verbal instructions. Even a dumbo like me can follow this. Thanks a lot fella!
I just wanted to thank you for this serie of videos. They are well made and not too long. But most of all they really explain what a self-respecting mechanic would do (and what one should NOT to do), not just some cheap thumb-rule instruction.. So, thank you! I found them very useful!
Fabio
this video is a life saver. so glad I found it. you should make a power valve video as well
Tools - 2:40 | Tube Disassembly - 3:15 | Fork Cap Service - 5:24 | Damper Service - 7:15 | Fork Tube Service - 8:03 | Fork Tube Assembly - 10:07 | Fork Fluid - 10:54 | Fork Fluid Level Setting - 11:36 | Fork Damper Assembly - 11:41 | Fork Damper Install - 14:07 | Get Some Parts → amzn.to/3gM6L6Z
Learn more about your 97-01 Honda CR250 here! - goo.gl/iZuLQc
Learn more about your *97-01 Honda CR250* here! - goo.gl/iZuLQc
dude great video, im surprised this doesn't have more views.
Radcliff Humphrey This video will most likely never have a lot of views because the 97-01 Cr250 is one of the most hated bikes out there. The combination of the first gen aluminum frame and problematic power valve made the bike hard to handle, rough to ride, and had unreliable power delivery. So not a lot of people have these bikes, and most owners don't bother maintaining them because they most likely got them super cheap and they're just a beater bike (like mine). Thanks for watching though!
+Fix Your Dirt Bike my brother has these on his 96 cr250. in the process of rebuilding them
97-99 had the hated frame. great engines through 01. 02-07 has the electronic power valves. check yo self.
just found your channel and digging the A.A.l background music
Nice to see you like animals as leaders, physical education is one of my favorite songs!
Just checked out your website awesome
Good to see how other pros do suspension also
Great video! One of the most helpful ones I've seen, keep up the great work!
Animals as leaders and dirt bikes 🤘🔥
+ 1 for a video on the rear shock rebuild! I own the 97 cr250.
+Nathan Smith I took a while to get to but here it is! ua-cam.com/video/hVNNjL7eYCw/v-deo.html
Bloody hell big fella, this is the best how to I’ve seen.
All the videos you have are spot on.
Top job, keep it up mate
Great choice of music 👍And great video!
Very Helpful! Thanks for taking your time to put this together.
Nice vid!!!!! Thanks for the help! Keep Riding
Thank you this video is very helpful
Great vid and love the humor.
Awesome video! I can't thank you enough. Keep up the great teaching videos!
Glad to help!
@@Fixyourdirtbike how's it going my four cap assembly is just spinning like it stripped or something it won't come off any thoughts on that and mine looks a little different it's not inside it's on the outside of the tube if that makes sense?
Such a good video man. Subscribed
Excellent video.🇺🇸👍
great vid!
Thank you, great video!!
@14:57... why?
Just bought a second hand 1999 CR250 and changed the oil/dust seals and changed the oil.
Didn't rebuild the damper, but upon assembly noticed the gap mentioned is not there, nut is flush against the centerbolt.
Why could this be? IIRC it was like that upon disassembly. What is the risk and consequence?
Sorry for the thread revival, just bought the bike.
Hi, can i just replace oil in outer chamber by unsrew top fork Cap and screw it on again, forks are not leaking want just change oil.
Thanks from sweden
I was going to send my forks out to be rebuilt. I may just do it myself
I'm lost on measuring the Damper Oil level. It says 5-10 mm on the link. If you could help me I would appreciate it. And I know how dumb this question is.
the oil level should be between 5-10mm below the first ridge inside the damper.
Why is hanging fork upside down for 10 minutes necessary? Also after it hangs upside down for 10 minutes you don't say to put the bleeder screw back in the air bleeder screw. I mean it's an instructional video you are supposed to put that back in before you pump the fork to get the to rise to the top where the air bleed screw is correct. Great video just if someone's watching this and they don't know whether they should put the police screw back in. You be sucking air in correct
Hang the fork for a while to let residual fluid drain. At 13:30 it says "remember to put it back". I did not specify right after you remove it, I apologize if that wasn't conveyed well. Thanks for catching that and I'll keep that in mind for future videos!
I can’t thread my fork in idk it won’t go down fork enough to hit the threds
awesome video!!!
Good to the point video. thanks ap
Nice and specific!
Thank you!
I have a 97 cr250. I have the motion pro fork lever filler gauge. But how do I know what level the oil should be?? The specs u provided said 5-10 mm?? Doesn’t seem right. Please help me out. Thank you
Muy bueno el video!!! Muchas gracias!
Hi guys. query. Does anyone have the compression valve configuration of the front fork of the cr 250 year 2000?
How many washers? My bike is very hard and shows that they have touched it. Or some scheme to know the washer that it carries?Hi guys. query. Does anyone have the compression valve configuration of the front fork of the cr 250 year 2000?
How many washers? My bike is very hard and shows that they have touched it. Or some scheme to know the washer that it carries?
Love your channel! I'm about to do mine. Question: do the oils in the inner chamber and outer chamber mix? seems the chambers are sealed, but I can't find an answer on whether the oil gets cycled from the outer chamber to the inner chamber. The reason I ask is because I have two different oil weights/brands and I dont want to mix them so I'm thinking either to use one type in the inside chamber, and the other type on the outer (if they dont mix) or use one oil in one fork and the other oil in the other fork. thanks
Thanks for watching! The inner cartridge is sealed and does not commingle with the fluid in the fork tube.
QUESTION WHEN MEASUSURING THE DAMPER OIL LEVEL IT SHOWS YOU MEASURING FROM THE TOP OF THE LIP DAMPER ROD EXTENDED i ASSUME. The issue or question is on the website you advertise for 01 2r250 the damper has holes towards the top and if you fill as it stated for mine 5 0 mm oil would be past the wholes if you go inside where the cap would sit /o-ring lip and add 5-10mm of oil to get the measurement when you add the cap assembly (with the size of it it will fit??) How do I measure the oil level correctly and is 5 to 10 mm correct??? oil level on 01cr250r THANKS
The oil level should be 5-10mm above the interior lip
I need an Impro-vice.
hello my dear!
What oil and quantity for suspension model Cr 250 1998?
I use my bike on the trail.
Thankful!
I like to use a lighter weight oil for trails, something like Maxima 3w. Here are the fork specs → bit.ly/2LR1BXo
This has been soooo helpful. TYSM
On that damper how far down did you set your measurement? I'm confused on how to set the oil damper level. Is 100 mm down from the top sound right? And should the damper rod be fully extended or all the way compressed during the measurement.
The oil level is 5-10mm up from the shoulder.
Hey John what the stock setting for the suspension
I cant get my camping rod to extend on it's own at all. What am I doing wrong .Please help. 98 cr250r
Are you pre or post service?
I have changed my dust and oil seal. Took my dampner out. Added my fluid. Put the damping cap/ spring thingy back on tried to bleed it. Like you instructed. The rod isnt bent it will push back out holding it vertically but not when I lay it horizontal across my lap
Sorry for the late reply. When you bleed the damper, how much oil came out of the bleed holes?
Nice video
THANKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow this is a very good video. Thank you. What do you reckon a shop would charge for a rebuild like this? And how long did this actually take you to do?
Thanks! I've never gone to a shop for this so I couldn't tell you. If you take your time to clean and polish every piece of your shock it should take around 3 hours your first time. If you are just changing oil and checking seals then about 30 minutes.
@@Fixyourdirtbike Hey John can I put 2000, 01 forks on the 97?
Hi Mr. John: I'm running into this problem at 13:52 where, no matter how many times I bleed the damper assembly, the damper rod will not extend all the way on it's own when held flat on its side and compressed and released. There's always about 3/8" left I have to pull the damper rod out by hand. I've removed the fork cap assembly three times, verified the oil level, and very carefully followed both your instructions and the owner's manual but I'm still getting a tiny bit of air in there. Do you have any recommendations of what I should try?
Sounds like the rod might be out of spec or the damper is compromised. Try overfilling the cap by a few mm and see if that will help, it's worked for me a few times.
Let me know if overfilling works. If not, message me on FB and we'll get it figured out!
@@Fixyourdirtbike Thanks John. you have such a great channel. I had actually tried overfilling like you suggested and that didnt change the outcome. I can actually hear the trapped air when i cycle the compression rod through the chamber, almost like there's air pockets trapped around the rebound valve. Anyways I'll see if the same problem occurs with the second fork leg (i only did one so far). thanks for the help!
Ok, it sounds like the bushing isn't sealing against the damper wall. Let me know how the other fork goes!
@@Fixyourdirtbike Thanks Mr. John: The second fork extends perfectly. Actually it was weird cause at first there was a lot of stiction with the dampening rod but after some pumping it a bunch of times and installing the dampening assembly and pumping a bunch more it seemed to fix itself. i might have another look at the first fork after a test ride. thanks for all the help and for running such a sweet channel!
John, I got the forks done, mounted, and began to set to factory spec as a baseline. One of my rebound damping adjusters will not move, the other is fine. What's my best coarse of action and likely culprit? Thanks.
Van Alstyne Just to clarify, the adjuster on the bottom of the fork? If so, you might be able to get it loose with PB blaster.
Yes, that one. I corrected the lock nut gap (1.5 mm- 2.0 mm) and was able to twist the clicker when I had the bolt torqued to 51 ft/lbs. Now the problem is that the clicker will twist and not deadhead either way. What I finally did was to measure the needle (on the bolt) and twist counterclockwise until it stopped getting longer, even though I could still twist. I figured that was full out. If 24 clicks is full range and I need 14 from full in, then 10 clicks from full out is the same. That's where I have it now. I haven't filled it back up yet, I'm bouncing this off you first. The damn clicker is $85 new, so if I'm close so be it. Being a beginner rider, will I even notice the difference in hardness or softness from a couple clicks either way? I'm not in the air and I don't slam into corners (yet). If I can get away with it and be safe I'll move on and keep it on the back burner. Thanks for getting back to me.
Van Alstyne Don't buy a new one. It sounds like your needle isn't seated into the the rod, so it's not moving the valve up top.
That was my first thought too. I swear I had placed it right. So the valve up top deadheads and not the clicker? If that's the case, the clicker isn't broken. Do they turn freely (without stopping) when it's just in your hand and not in the fork? What I'll do is insert the needle into the rod and then install it into the fork body. I just have to "hang" the fork and work from the bottom up. Thanks.
Hi how are you? I followed your advice to repair my 250 cr Monoshock. I couldn't get the nitrogen charge. So I inflated it with air. He walked well for a while and suddenly stopped walking. It looked like it had the spring alone. The next day he was back to normal. Could it be due to bad assembly and there is air left? Or is it the air in the bladder that causes this?
Great video!! Thanks!!
John a little help please. I did this rebuild on only one fork so far everything went smooth until I got to the rebound adjuster after putting it back together. It acts like it is seized and it was lined up in the cartridge and the clicker when I reinstalled it. Could it possible not be enough gap between the rebound clicker and the lock nut before I tightened it? Kinda lost as to why it is jammed only thing i can figure? Thoughts......
So is the rebound piston not returning when you bleed it? Or is the tube assembled and not returning?
Fix Your Dirt Bike clicker was just seized
Ok, good.
i've got the same fork on my CR 250 1998 but complete different on the inside? and on front bolt a have inbus 14mm
Different how?
@@Fixyourdirtbike The inner spring rise up to the upper and is visable. there is a long 6 side bolt where the spring come over. it is not the same as you show on the video. i live in the Netherlands. Europe . i have different version.
Interesting. Can you send me a picture?
@@Fixyourdirtbike I have send you the pictures. let me know what you think
Hello i am spein pliss is posibool spanis plisss mi he honda CR 250 1998 plis carbur!!!
To replace just the top assembly on my 01, do I need to disassemble the whole fork? My compression adjuster screw broke :(
No, all you need to do is remove the fork cap, you don't even have to unscrew the outer tube.
@@Fixyourdirtbike sickkk dude. I appreciate your reply! Your videos have been super helpful🤘
@@Fixyourdirtbike loosened fork cap...assembly wont come out. Do I need to unscrew something out of the bottom?
@@legenderekonwheels Did you loosen the top fork bridge bolts?
@@Fixyourdirtbike that was the ticket!! Got her done! 🤘
I can't get my inner shock tube to bleed all the way I tryed refilling multiple times and every time im left with about two inches at the end that the rod won't return.
What level you setting your fluid at?
180
How hard is it to pull the rod the rest of the way out? Is the clicker out all the way?
its easy to pull out and yes all the clickers were turned out. its almost like the seals can't handle the pressure and are bleeding the air and more oil than it should
Just to check, have you rebuilt your other fork yet? If you did, is that one working?
animals as leaders, good pick
How much oil level you take in one fork?
Your oil level will depend on your spring rate. You can I.D. you spring rate and levels here → www.fixyourdirtbike.com/fix/honda-fix/honda-cr250/1997-2001-honda-cr250/97-01-honda-cr250-service/97-01-honda-cr250-front-suspension-specs/
Same for 98" cr125?
Yes.
Will this work for a same year 125R?
Yes and no. The procedure is the same, but all the specs will be different.
Cool. Thank you
Glad to help. Let me know if you have any other questions!
When are you going to to the back end? I don't have this exact bike, but I do have a cr250 with the standard Showa shock and IT IS FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU...in bad shape...
+Kyle Morgan I'm working on it! I keep getting distracted with other projects.
+Kyle Morgan ua-cam.com/video/hVNNjL7eYCw/v-deo.html finally got it done!