Fork Height Done Right!
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2021
- Fork height is something which many riders often play with and we here at Dirt Bike TV show you how to best make sure your fork height is set right.
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Jay Clark/Dirt Bike TV has been around the Dirt Bike industry for thirty years and is always looking to learn and help others do so as well. Give a follow or drop an email if you have any questions or comments. Thanks for watching!
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#dirtbike #techtip #KTM #motorcycle - Авто та транспорт
Once again, a great video. Love the content, as it gives me so many things to check and maintenance to keep my bike in top shape.
I have honestly learned more "real world" dirt bike stuff from this channel compared to other ones. I was the fireman parked next to you today at GH but never got to thank you for all the work you put into this channel! Thanks again and I hope to see you out there again!
Right on-- Thanks!
For those who are watching this video for the purpose of lowering the suspension, you need to know that the handlebars are raised (spaced up) before the fork tubes can be raised. Raising the tubes effectively lowers the front of the bike.
When he mentions calipers, he is refering to digital or dial indicator calipers.
I would also suggest that we DO NOT go beyond what the factory suggests for a pinch bolt toque rating.
Another great video. Thanks
Make sure you properly torque that pinch bolt for the steering stem. I've seen them break right at that bolt.
Great video! Thanks a lot
I’m trying to adjust my front shocks on a K5 xtr 250 highper Chinese dirt bike and the top of the forks have no clickers just a air pressure bleed screw. The bottom of both forks has an Allen screw which were both completely tight. I backed them both out 3 full turns ( does not click) and seemed to loosen things up. My question is, is one side compression and the other side rebound? I know first mistake was buying a Chinese dirt bike, but you gotta start somewhere
Great video
What is the caliper reading for the fork height that you were measuring?
Hi silly question but do I tighten up the bottom before the top once adjusted ?
Does anyone make a collar that you can place beneath the upper and or lower triple clamp, that you can butt up against the clamp from below and tighten, to help keep the fork leg from slipping?
What was your measurement for them forks
does the front tire need to be removed during this process ??
Can this be done with the front wheel still on?
Way to use the easy forks to where you dont have to show us the measuring or if you start the measurement from the top or under it
Tried to raise forks on ktm 300xcw and even with all bolts super loose forks don't budge. Had to pry clamps apart with screwdrivers.
did u ever find a fix?
Any special reason for pulling the fork’s through the clamps to the second line? I just picked up a ‘23 YZ250 and the top of the forks are flat/level with the clamps, should I pull them through a little?
Email Jay with any questions. Contact info in About tab.
Help please , i bougth a 2006 honda crf 450 R. it has air front forks, can i ad oil ? or it just needs air.? and also on clics, compression how many , and rebound how many clics I dont know the settings.???
the forks in the CRF 250 450 works with a oil and spring. you need fork oil to use it and DO NOT use it without oil. damper needs 195 ml or CC fork oil bleed it first, and outer tube requires 350ml or CC for standard if you want max capacity then 400ml or CC is good I always recommend the latter as more oil = more shock absorption power which is good for your forks.
for compression and rebound
standard is mentioned in the crf manual which is available to download. standard setting for compression is first you must turn the clickers to full hard mode and 7 clicks counter clock wise
Is it not advisable to remove the front wheel and insert the axle to make sure there is no bind and the forks are even?
I agree
16nm is not over the recommended setting. I have two bikes with these exact same triple clamps and it is written 17nm on the top one and 12 on the bottom one. I found that the handling is affected by these sensible settings when I once rode the bike with the bolt not torked to spec. But even at spec, I find my 350 a bit twitchy at speed as soon as it gets a bit rougher.
He’s torquing them in foot lbs not nm. Big difference
I am talking ft lbs that is what its higher -- We dont usually go in Nm
America = Ft lbs, inches, feet, miles etc...
Nothing wrong with metric, I use it for some things,
but metric is not better, and still has to use fractions,
and imperial to get things done properly.
He keeps saying foot pounds when it's actually NM . 12 on the bottom and 17 on top. So he's way over tightening them .
I’m confused my 2023 ktm 450 says 17 nm on top and 12 nm on bottom in the manual. If I did 17 foot pounds on top. Would be way to tight..
I noticed the New ktms are up on the 2nd and 3rd line. Doesn't that make them twitchy?
It can - we are usually on the first line--
im 120lbs on a crf250r and my front end wabbles during high speeds and roughness. will putting my forks at first line or drain cap help?
Email Jay. Contact info in About tab.
You didn’t reset the front wheel
I can’t find torque specs for theses bolts on my FJ-09. Can I assume your numbers will work on my bike ?
Email me - contact info in About tab
A fork leg will not move in the clamps it tightened correctly. You will break off the clamps in a fall before they slip in those clamps. I am only 20 seconds in. This is going to be fun.
The caliper has to be straight for a good measurement.
Be careful folks if you tighten the steering "swing". Too tight, (should just barely stop free fall movement from side to side on the stand), and the bearings/races will start to deform. You will feel it as you turn the bars if they deform.
Nice shop you have.
Ada jual segitiga nya kah bos
I just did my 300l and the torque specs are 21ft lb, and I thought that was lose!
I set them at 26ft lbs. I hope that’s not too tight!?
Too tight. Email Jay for more tech questions.
Cool tip- nice torque
The man has got a tool on him
@@SLP-eb1wp lol...
Yeah but how do i lower the forks on the top like literally i loosened those four screws and the top part of the fork almost popped up to where my handle bars almost fell off
Put your bike on the stand so the front wheel is hanging.
KTM/Husky is so much easier to maintenance than the big 4 bikes. Like the top triple clamp is so much easier than spanner on japan bikes. Steel frames are superior, the big 4 use like aluminum as it is cheaper than steel (there is a difference).
No aluminum frames on any Kawasaki kdx 200 that I ride!
@@funkysawmanwright5077 They stopped making them many years ago. Plus parts are hard to get.
@@mt1885 I've been able to get everything to rebuild mine from top to bottom
You forgot front wheel alignment . you can't just go doing all that without alignment after & stuff
He probably should of loosened the axle nut and axle clamps first, then done the whole wheel installation/axle tightening routine after the fork tube adjustment.
@@GNX157 ua-cam.com/video/9nWf18AhTOk/v-deo.html
Why do they not work right if they're too tight?
The clamps can distort the fork tube and the dampening hardware inside it.
Just seen a guy tighten the same 4 bolts 5 times lol
As you tighten one the other may loosen a bit due to the compression caused by the tightening hence the need to check the bolts multiple times. Learned that in aircraft mechanic school in the Army.
dude you look just like that actor it could be his twin brother
nice recycled material
Hmm Foot lbs? NM is correct
lol, amazing the amount of misinformation in this vid....
equal fork height in the t/c doesn't mean the forks are aligned properly in the lowers.
Firstttttttttt. And awesome tech tips!
How about buying some new shoes that don't SQUEAK ?
a lot of BS here. oh and if you know anything about torque settings you would know not to keep smashing away like a rabbit on speed with that torque wrench, those bolts are now way over the correct torque specs. shocking!
dont buy the calipers with a LED screen, they like to fail
Worked all my life around and in machine shops with everything from Starrett to cheap harbor freight calipers. Even with the cheap harbor freight ones, as long as they worked correctly in the 1st place, *the screens were **_rarely_** ever an issue, and many sets received rough enough treatment that analog dials would have broken a long time sooner.*
CALM DOWN WITH THE THE DYNAMIC YANKING ON THE TORQUE WRENCH MY GUY…
Pretty misleading to label a video "done right" whilst giving incorrect torque specs. Correct specs are conveniently labeled on the triple clamps @2:42 (17nm for upper and 12nm for lower). "If you over tighten these, the forks won't work correctly" proceeds to over tighten them 2 min later by using ft lbs instead of nm... Also, you shouldn't use extensions when torqueing if possible.
OK so I do mention that I use ft lbs and that we go tighten over the KTM/Husky spec because if you dont they will move without even crashing.
@@dirtbiketv1 I've never seen that happen. Go to Tokyo Off-road for the right way to do these things....
Long time out, BUT extensions don't matter when hand tightening.
So... If you don't know how to do this you don't deserve to ride a dirt bike.
Thumbs down for the annoying adverts.
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