The Assiomas just work! True, they are not the prettiest. But they are accurate and do not present problems. This video also put me at ease about replacing worn bearings, thanks Shane!
Great video! Thank you. I just replaced mine after 10,000 km and it was really easy. Smooth as butta! One tip I'll share, that wasn't mentioned, relates to the end cap (the first thing you remove/last thing you put back on). Don't tighten this cap too much nor leave it too loose when done. It actually affects how much play there will be between the pedal and the spindle. As in, how much you can move the pedal body left or right if you hold the pod in one hand and the pedal in the other and pull in and out. After replacing the bearings in the first pedal and tightening down the locking nut, I was concerned that it had too much of this lateral play/movement. This will go away once you install the end cap, as it makes everything "snug".
Hi Shane, I don’t Generally leave comments but thanks very much for this clip , I just changed my bearings in 20 mins. In my opinion Favero pedals are the best going around , accurate, reliable and you can get spares and are easy to change bearings. Keep up the good work on your channel it is the best going around. Cheers Peter
Hi , great video. the two inboard bearings are only metal shielded and in Ireland with wet winters mine only lasted 4 months. After getting replacements under warranty they only lasted the same. I bought Enduro branded bearings 6700 2rs at 7 euro each. I hope these will last longer as they have rubber type seals. Favero should use 2RS seals. The small outer bearing is always fine as its well away from water and can be reused. There are really no seals on this pedal except for what the bearings have which is poor.Note that outer nut has different directions for opening and closing each side. Refer to drawing in manual for pedals. Note that when the nut is tightened the pedal body still rocks sideways. Don't worry as the plastic end cap when tightened will remove the play.
peter n how did your bearing upgrade work? I think you have done the right thing putting in the sealed bearings. FAvero took a cheap short cut using shielded bearings. I am about to replace my pedals bearings and as luck has it there is no stock around. Probably get bearings from my local bearing distributor, any idea what other bearing size was.
@@darrellwhitford7084 Hi, just saw your question today. The ENDURO bearing were abit better but after a month or two they still had some water ingress. The issue is that the pedals dont have any seals to protect the bearing. When out in the rain there is a stream of water jetting into the pedals. They need an o ring or some formed rubber seal. The only good thing about the enduro bearings is that you can remove the seal and pack with grease and put back on. Maybe buying alot of cheap bearings and replacing them regularly is the best. I dont know what the outside single bearing is. You will find this is perfect as water cant get at it and all the load is on the twin inboard bearings.
Great vid Shane...one word of warning, both my inner bearings were shot (although there was no grinding noise), and disintegrated when trying to remove them. It was very tricky and time consuming trying to get all parts of the bearings out, with the innermost bearing casing providing particularly difficult. Eventually got it all out and replaced with new bearings. A little bit of scuffed, chewed plastic around the hole but it doesn't affect refitting. I think I'll change the bearings annually from now on as I've had these on for just over two years.
Same here. Have had a pair of Assioma UNOs for two years/10-15 000 km mileage, and the inner 10/15 bearings have been completely shredded. When I opened the pedal to replace them, only a few metallic threads were left. What is worse, it seems that the bearings, while being worn out, have threaded themselves into the inside of the pedal housing. The inside seems to be threaded, which it's not originally. The bearing residue is stuck to the inside of the pedal, and the result is that the new 10/15 bearings simply do not fit.
Seems easy and straightforward. I like the fact that you did service both pedals on camera instead of putting "repeat almost the same with other pedal" text or something like that ;) It's... not lazy video making. Also shows nicely that the whole process doesn't take too much time.
Thanks for this, still useful in 2023. Fear my bearings are shredded, like some others commenting, after 2 and a bit years and nearly 1000 hours of riding. The right pedal is actually clicking in and out a little and suddenly my cycling dynamics data isn't showing anymore in Connect. Luckily the bike has to go in anyway so leaving it to a trusted pro mechanic to deal with but this certainly helped diagnose the issue 👍
Thanks for the how-to. With this vid is was pretty straightforward to change the bearings actually. In my case it was a single bearing on the inside of one of the pedals too that caused the issue.
Nothing like a good wrenching video to get the weekend started! Nice work! Pumped me up to start my battle with a seized square taper bottom bracket... that will soon bow down to my amazing upper body strength *sarcasm*
Thanks for this. Had been using mine on both summer and winter bikes and wasn't looking after them as much as I should. Followed this vid and they're spinning smooth as silk now.
Awesome video Shane. Thanks. Very helpful for me to rebuild my pedals. May make a suggestion: after putting on the nut, noticed a little side to side play. Thought crap something is wrong. But after installing the end cap, the side to side play was gone. The other pedal was the same way. Good to know.
You might want to add that, the socket needed is very specific. The outer dia is specific. Can't remember now, but my regular socket would not go in, and I needed to source a thinner one.
Great video Shane, just a hint... don’t do more than one click on the torque wrench, each click will tighten the nut further beyond the torque setting, no doubt will be fine on this but on a seat post for example you could end up in a whole world of pain
Thanks for that Shane. I've got a ways to go on mine before I get to 10KKm, but I now have the piece of mind that if they do start grinding, it's no big deal. Very well done!
I see pedals as somewhat of a consumable, that's the main reason I was staying away from them as power meters; however since these bearings are so easily replaced I'm starting to lean towards them. That said, not all are created equal, I had an opportunity to get a set of Vector 3 pedals for less than the Assioma Duos but could not find any posts about bearing replacement; that's because there isn't a simple kit, instead the Vector 3 requires a pedal body replacement which is about 5 times more costly than the Duo's bearing kit. The Favero Assioma pedals have a great modular design where you can replace the power meter/spindle, pedal body or bearing kit independently allowing maintenance and repairs to be more incremental and less costly.
Those bearings don’t sound bad to me. A bit dry, yes, but not worn. My engineering teacher taught me a good way to check ball bearings. You need to rotate the bearing while applying an an axial load on it. This load will push the balls into any pits or imperfections in the race, and you’ll be able to feel the roughness. Just spinning it won’t help, as there is a minuscule gap between the balls and races
Awesome video, thanks Shane. Just serviced mine while using this as a guide. If you dont have a felt tip pen like Shane has, you can use a 10mm allen key to push the bearings in.
This video is BRILLIANT! Recently bought a set of assiomas, the thought of the bearings wearing was the biggest concern. Not anymore, will be back in another 9000km or so to check this again! Thanks 😃
Awesome! Give them a quick spin on the bike every now and then checking for that grinding you can hear with one of my pedals. Also remember to use a torque wrench only for the tightening of the bolts (loosening best done with a standard wrench)... yeah, I took shortcuts here.... but the goal was to show how easy it was to do, so job done.
@@gplama MY LUCK... literally the next ride after seeing this video, I FELL OFF MY BIKE.. GRRR.... broken the pedal body for my Assioma, the cleat retention system snapped off. Still, at least thanks to you when the replacement flatform arrives I will have no trouble fixing it all together.
Great video, thanks for sharing this 👍 I just followed this video when servicing, well, changing i should say the bearings in my Favero Assioma Uno pedals.
Great video as expected.... you might have a future in youtube tear down vids! A few suggestions for anyone planning to go through this (i may need to soon): 1. **removed** 2. When removing and torquing the nut on the end of the spindle, take care not to grip the electronics pod. Its easy to hold there to keep things steady, but only hold the allen/hex. If you have the option, clamp the hex in a vice with the end facing up and set the pedal on top.
Good point about the torque wrench. Since those pro ones can click in both directions (eg torquing the pedals) you can set it to it's max and hope it doesn't click when you need to undo it
I knew I'd get pulled up on this. I mentioned it. I didn't want to re-film it all. The Internet though... I get it. But when people care about a torque wrench but never care to ask how I am... it's a shitty place. Good thanks.
@@gplama Hope you are having a great day. The video was super informative and I watched it even though I don't even have power meter pedals. Should have watched the whole video before commenting....
i wonder why they don't use shielded bearings, plus the kit seems rather pricey. are those standard sized, e.g. could you order some 2rs ones from a quality manufacturer (like skf, ntn) on the aftermarket...?
My bearings went out after 9months and it scored the spindle. I tried to get Favor to warranty the bearings and they will If I pay a huge shipping cost from Italy. Just go buy bearings from the local Remote Control car store, they are much cheaper and you won't have to waste 3 weeks of your life in emails with them. The bearings are 10x15x4mm (4needed) and 6x13x5mm (2 needed) the cost at the RC store is less than half the cost from Favero, and the quality looks to much better. If you are not in a rush, order them online and it will be half of what the RC store was. They won't allow their resellers to do warranty work, or ship parts. I bought them from the largest reseller in the USA.
Hi Greg, this happened to me, but after at least 12 months (my fault for not checking). The bearings disintegrated and scored the plastic body. What this meant was that I could only fit 1 set of bearings on the inside of the pedal. I eventually bought a new set of pedal bodies 120 EUROS. If it's wet, and I live in the UK, you have to check more than the recommended replacement duration of 10,000 km. I recently replaced the bearings after 8 months of use and the bearings were rusty and slightly gritty.
I just did mine like a month ago and I did pedal body replacement. Did u know that the pedal body is actually a little bit changed than the original one. I think its because the nut right after the endcap. I had to buy 3 different wrench to fit in to that nut. Mine was much much tighter not like yours. so i needed perfect wrench to fit in. Replcement body had no problem fitting the wrench in. Plus it became thinner(you will notice if you see them).
Are you suggesting that not reading instructions gives you faith in humanity? I'm not saying Shane didn't read them (after all, he had to figure out the torque somehow), he just got rid of them for the camera, but that's how you mean it? People learn from experience. That means making mistakes. Some mistakes are best avoided. And why needlessly make stupid mistakes? It's not bad when one accepts that he or she doesn't know everything. That we can miss, not realize. A bit of humility restores my faith, for a change. :-) That's how we get "objects are closer than they appear" or "check your surroundings" warnings staring in our faces all the time cluttering the environment, because putting them in the manual isn't enough, apparently (and they would fall into the silly [ass covering] category even in a manual).
I found today annoying play on pedals. Learned from your video how to disassemble.. Tighten nut did not help. But after tightening external plug, no play anymore.
Hi Shane. Looking to get my first power meter, these are one of my preferred options. Once installed and paired to your wahoo, is that all that needs to be done?
Pretty much. You unbox them, install them, open their app and set the crank length, check firmware is up to date, and you're done. ua-cam.com/video/oWOlKT3jDJs/v-deo.html
Great Post Shane, I took mine off at 5k km and noticed there is a roller bearing at then AND a polymer, or du, bearing closer to the centre of the axle. Now I not worried about the roller bearing, but the du bearing always sees the same push force from the pedal stroke. Hence it wears only on about 33% of the area. I think this gives the flex/play over time. Knowing this it is not just distance cycled but, distance cycled at what average power. I checked mine and I averaged ~250w for the 5k km and start to notice play in the du bearing. Once the polymer is run off its done and relying only on the left over grease. Once the metal of the pedal arm starts to get damaged its the end of the power meter. Would you share your avg power over the 10k km? To give an insight?
Thank you for the instructional video. Any idea how much is costs to replace the factory installed rechargeable battery after it has gone through is life cycle?
Not necessarily. There are torque wrenches and screwdrivers where the manufacturer allows this, even for seized fasteners (like Wera, Stahlwille). That's actually the danger. That you might encounter a fastener that requires too much torque to break loose and you inadvertently go outside the range of that tool (which can not only mess up calibration, but also damage the wrench, depending on how far you go). Other than that, loosening is not a problem. Of course, always defer to the manufacturer's guidance.
I asked these guys if they would do an MTB/ SPD version (i'm a roady, but i do like to wear 'sensible' shoes). Got a real short reply of "No". Fair enough, but I know a whole world of people that'd purchase them: and now to see the power-measuring part so neatly contained within just a 'frame'...sheesh! Annoyingly, I ride past their hq on one of the rides I do, too. Favero, campagnolo, wilier...all within shouting distance, yet they're all stuck up their own bits in their own ways :-)
It's just business. If there's a market there for SPD pedals that would be profitable (taking into account EVERYTHING... cost to develop, sell, maintenance, support, etc) then someone will likely step in and fill the void. Sometimes what we want and what makes financial sense are different things. This doesn't mean they're stuck up in any way. The alternative would be to produce a product.... have it fail... and maybe have the company cease operations. That's livelihoods impacted. For the consumer it's almost of no relevance at all, we just shop elsewhere.
Hi Shane, Have you see any problem or know about a problem were the left pedal suddenly stops working? I doesnt power on unless you connect it to the charger and has a pattern on the light being on and hold the light for 5 seconds and then starts blinking about 10 times in a endless cycle. Attached to the charger i can connect the app to them and they are recognize, however the zero manual offset fails. The firmware is upto date. I cannot do anything else. Really appreciate your answer, regards from Costa Rica.
Not a problem I've had across four sets of Assioma DUO pedals. Make sure the cable is correctly inserted into the charger too. Otherwise best to contact Favero Support.
recently crashed...had to replace the left side of my older (silver or grey spring) assiomas. there are a few companies selling them. a few notes for those doing the same: 1) i bought the newer (black spring) body because the site said it was the exact same with just a bigger range of cleat tension (old silver/grey spring version was 11-20 and newer black spring version is 8-20 nm) for the same price. the kit came with the body, one bearing (not sure of the size sorry), the m6 nut, the 'oil retainer', and a new plastic cap for the outside of the pedal. 2)the nut on both versions was an M6 and I used a tiny multi-tool 9mm socket without any problem. 3)*big point here* the newer black spring version has *one* bearing (and it is a different size) on the non-crank side of the pedal. i panicked when i first saw it b/c i thought the sent the wrong pedal. fit fine though because the bore inside the new pedal body has changed to accommodate the different bearing. so, if you are replacing bearings keep in mind you are going to need to know which version you have. someone below kindly posted the bearing sizes of the silver/grey (i think?) in case you want to buy on your own (and cheaper)--but again, this solo bearing is a different size. 4)*the newer black spring pedal body (as a couple people noted but i didn't read until now) is a slightly different color (darker black) than the silver/grey spring version. i was a bit bummed, but i am pretty sure no one will ever notice. 5)finally, the whole process was so easy. I used my finger to punch the bearing in (the new body actually came with the crank side bearing already installed so it was just the one on the non-crank side that needed placement) but also jammed a pen in there like Shane just to be sure. the whole process from pedal off bike to pedal on bike was about 10 minutes and i am no mechanic. really finally: thanks Shane!
Interesting. I removed the bearings from the black spring pedal bodies and replaced them with the ones from my silver spring bodies... (which were recently replaced). I'll have to have a closer look.
Hi Shane, could you let me know which model of Pro Torque tool are you using? I see your one works in both ways, clockwise and counter clockwise. Thanks in advance.
In an other video about that I saw, that the pedal is loose (sideways) even after tighten it with 8-10nm until you apply the end cap. I also noticed that on my pedals. Is that correct or does that really make sense?
Would like to know the 2 bearing sizes (perhaps in their white papers). Good bearings of these relative sizes can be had very cheap from various RC car bearing retailers. Yes you would be reusing the nuts and retainers but the business portion is getting replaced. If both sizes are something AVID RC sells (likely) then all 6 will cost just over 6bux. -U10
More rabbit holes! Bearing replacement shouldn't have any impact on the readings. 78km done on them today. The numbers looked good. A Lama Lab Test is already on the cards with these, the Neo, and another power meter. Two birds with one stone tests are good.
You state that you did 10000 km. Do you know how many hours of riding that roughly equates to? I log my component usage but much of the time is indoors so I can't relate to outdoor riding miles, I log time rather than distance. I'm just trying to work out if this is something I need to consider soon
Ride time, no idea. I'd have to look back at my training log. Bearing lifespan depends a LOT on the conditions. Some people might only get a few 1000km from these if riding in shitty conditions. You can get a feel for how the bearings are holding up with a quick spin test.
@@gplama Not there yet - just trying to be prepared. I will check! My dual Pioneer pm has been giving me nothing but problems since I purchased their clearance stock. Sent in for service 5 times in 4 months. It’s time to move on!
@@gplama wanted to ask... if I use these pedals on a given crank, and then swap cranks (same crank length), would I have to re pair the pedals on my head unit or app?
Dear Shane, thank you for this Video. I have the BePro pedal system and can not undo the outer srew which is protecting the nut. Do you have any suggestions or tips ?
I'm not familiar with the BePro pedals sorry. Maybe check the Favero website for the parts/spec breakout, then contact Favero support if that doesn't have the info you need.
Is there any posibilty that a play in pedals to affect power readings?i found in my last rides using tacx neo 1 and favero on rouvy climbs,that favero are like 1% under tacx neo.it was like 1.5% higher in the past but now is a little under always.also the balance seems to be like 1 or 2% affected.i also noticed that one bearing had play..thanks!
Maybe..... the percentages you're quoting are within the accuracy ranges of the pedals and NEO. If the bearings have play, get that resolved and retest.
Is there a ceramic bearings as a replacement for this. I did already 5k on my pedals and just bought it this year would that means I will replace them most likely next year.
Given the problems the Vectors and Powertaps have had with battery doors, the sealed battery is probably the better way. Rechargeable batteries typically lose 20% of capacity over 500 charge cycles. For a phone with a daily charge cycle, you can reach this point in 18 months. For a PM with monthly charge cycle, this will take decades.
100% with Andrew on this one. Replaceable batteries are a great idea, if they don't introduce problems like we've seen. If was to get 2 years from a set of Assiomas then that's still a good buy, imo. I suspect they'll last a lot longer than that.
Shane, could you tell me what you would choose between a stages Gen3 L a 4iiii L both dura ace or the assioma ? My only worry about the assioma is the battery sealed...
Assioma for what I do and due to the readings I get from Shimano RIGHT cranks with strain gauges on them. BUT. This isn't purchase advice for anyone. What I would choose might be interesting, but it's irrelevant for anyone else but me.
Shane Miller - GPLama I know but I needed to ask lol And after 10000km with the assioma, how does the battery life change ? Thank you a lot and greetings from France
Hello Shane, i have a problem with my new power meter, is a Watteam Powerbeat g2 , i bougt it and i realize they go out off bisness. I cant calibrate becose i cant create a new user in the app. ¿Can you help me anyway? Thanks in advance
Shane Miller - GPLama is there a torque recommendation for the black end cap? Also my torque wrench wont work with the reverse threads ie right pedal. It won’t ‘click’. If that makes sense.
This info is in the user manual over on the Favero website. End cap (2-3 Nm). It's tight-ish... but also not critical for power accuracy so installing (carefully) without a torque wrench will be possible.
Mine was from a really cheap socket set from a hardware store. Take the pedal into one and see if they can match it up with a socket. It should be pretty common/standard.
Thanks @@gplama My 9 mm socket wouldn't fit the recess, so I took the pedal to a hardware store and USD 2.00 later I was swapping out defective power spindle. The back and forth of nearly a month with Favero support to get the replacement had me in a foul mood. Never wrench angry.
I just had a left spindle fail after just 6 months. Favero quickly agreed to send me a new spindle. BUT then the fun started, a 9mm socket with an outside diameter less than 13mm is required to open up the pedals to do any servicing. Can I find such a socket anywhere??? Nope. Impossible. I am intrigued whether GP Lama has a secret supplier…..or just got lucky and had a socket already that fitted. Anybody any suggestions?????
@@gplamayou obviously got lucky with the socket you already had. The one i already own measured 13.4mm and didn't come close to fitting inside the pedal. I have since tried very many other 9mm sockets, none fitted, it really has to be less than 13mm outside diameter to fit inside the pedal. I spoke with Park Tools they don't even make one that fits. Favero weren't any help with this issue either, all they could suggest was a Tekton "thin wall" 9mm socket....but Tekton are American and don't ship to Europe....thanks for that suggestion Favero!!. So trawling the specs of all the tool mfrs now desperately seeking 9mm socket with OD less than 13mm - most mfrs don't even publicise this dimension as it doesnt matter for 99% of applications. For me the serviceability at home of the Assiomas is a really big attraction, but buyer beware, you need to find the right tool to be able to open them up.
The Assiomas just work! True, they are not the prettiest. But they are accurate and do not present problems. This video also put me at ease about replacing worn bearings, thanks Shane!
Great video! Thank you. I just replaced mine after 10,000 km and it was really easy. Smooth as butta!
One tip I'll share, that wasn't mentioned, relates to the end cap (the first thing you remove/last thing you put back on). Don't tighten this cap too much nor leave it too loose when done. It actually affects how much play there will be between the pedal and the spindle. As in, how much you can move the pedal body left or right if you hold the pod in one hand and the pedal in the other and pull in and out. After replacing the bearings in the first pedal and tightening down the locking nut, I was concerned that it had too much of this lateral play/movement. This will go away once you install the end cap, as it makes everything "snug".
Hi Shane, I don’t Generally leave comments but thanks very much for this clip , I just changed my bearings in 20 mins. In my opinion Favero pedals are the best going around , accurate, reliable and you can get spares and are easy to change bearings. Keep up the good work on your channel it is the best going around. Cheers Peter
Hi , great video. the two inboard bearings are only metal shielded and in Ireland with wet winters mine only lasted 4 months. After getting replacements under warranty they only lasted the same. I bought Enduro branded bearings 6700 2rs at 7 euro each. I hope these will last longer as they have rubber type seals. Favero should use 2RS seals. The small outer bearing is always fine as its well away from water and can be reused. There are really no seals on this pedal except for what the bearings have which is poor.Note that outer nut has different directions for opening and closing each side. Refer to drawing in manual for pedals. Note that when the nut is tightened the pedal body still rocks sideways. Don't worry as the plastic end cap when tightened will remove the play.
peter n how did your bearing upgrade work? I think you have done the right thing putting in the sealed bearings. FAvero took a cheap short cut using shielded bearings. I am about to replace my pedals bearings and as luck has it there is no stock around. Probably get bearings from my local bearing distributor, any idea what other bearing size was.
@@darrellwhitford7084 Hi, just saw your question today. The ENDURO bearing were abit better but after a month or two they still had some water ingress. The issue is that the pedals dont have any seals to protect the bearing. When out in the rain there is a stream of water jetting into the pedals. They need an o ring or some formed rubber seal. The only good thing about the enduro bearings is that you can remove the seal and pack with grease and put back on. Maybe buying alot of cheap bearings and replacing them regularly is the best. I dont know what the outside single bearing is. You will find this is perfect as water cant get at it and all the load is on the twin inboard bearings.
Great vid Shane...one word of warning, both my inner bearings were shot (although there was no grinding noise), and disintegrated when trying to remove them. It was very tricky and time consuming trying to get all parts of the bearings out, with the innermost bearing casing providing particularly difficult. Eventually got it all out and replaced with new bearings. A little bit of scuffed, chewed plastic around the hole but it doesn't affect refitting. I think I'll change the bearings annually from now on as I've had these on for just over two years.
Same here. Have had a pair of Assioma UNOs for two years/10-15 000 km mileage, and the inner 10/15 bearings have been completely shredded. When I opened the pedal to replace them, only a few metallic threads were left. What is worse, it seems that the bearings, while being worn out, have threaded themselves into the inside of the pedal housing. The inside seems to be threaded, which it's not originally. The bearing residue is stuck to the inside of the pedal, and the result is that the new 10/15 bearings simply do not fit.
I'm blissed out now, both from the ASMR and from smooth bearings on the axles
Seems easy and straightforward. I like the fact that you did service both pedals on camera instead of putting "repeat almost the same with other pedal" text or something like that ;) It's... not lazy video making. Also shows nicely that the whole process doesn't take too much time.
Yeah, with pedals, this is more important than for some other parts, as each pedal tightens a different way.
Thanks for this, still useful in 2023. Fear my bearings are shredded, like some others commenting, after 2 and a bit years and nearly 1000 hours of riding. The right pedal is actually clicking in and out a little and suddenly my cycling dynamics data isn't showing anymore in Connect. Luckily the bike has to go in anyway so leaving it to a trusted pro mechanic to deal with but this certainly helped diagnose the issue 👍
Thanks for the how-to. With this vid is was pretty straightforward to change the bearings actually. In my case it was a single bearing on the inside of one of the pedals too that caused the issue.
Nothing like a good wrenching video to get the weekend started! Nice work!
Pumped me up to start my battle with a seized square taper bottom bracket... that will soon bow down to my amazing upper body strength *sarcasm*
Thanks again for your help. Just received my Duo's in the mail today. Hopefully I won't have to worry about bearing replacement until 2023!!
Thanks for this. Had been using mine on both summer and winter bikes and wasn't looking after them as much as I should. Followed this vid and they're spinning smooth as silk now.
Very relaxing Shane, almost put me to sleep
Awesome video Shane. Thanks. Very helpful for me to rebuild my pedals. May make a suggestion: after putting on the nut, noticed a little side to side play. Thought crap something is wrong. But after installing the end cap, the side to side play was gone.
The other pedal was the same way. Good to know.
You might want to add that, the socket needed is very specific. The outer dia is specific. Can't remember now, but my regular socket would not go in, and I needed to source a thinner one.
Great video Shane, just a hint... don’t do more than one click on the torque wrench, each click will tighten the nut further beyond the torque setting, no doubt will be fine on this but on a seat post for example you could end up in a whole world of pain
Thanks for that Shane. I've got a ways to go on mine before I get to 10KKm, but I now have the piece of mind that if they do start grinding, it's no big deal. Very well done!
I see pedals as somewhat of a consumable, that's the main reason I was staying away from them as power meters; however since these bearings are so easily replaced I'm starting to lean towards them. That said, not all are created equal, I had an opportunity to get a set of Vector 3 pedals for less than the Assioma Duos but could not find any posts about bearing replacement; that's because there isn't a simple kit, instead the Vector 3 requires a pedal body replacement which is about 5 times more costly than the Duo's bearing kit. The Favero Assioma pedals have a great modular design where you can replace the power meter/spindle, pedal body or bearing kit independently allowing maintenance and repairs to be more incremental and less costly.
Thanks for posting this Shane. A good reminder that I should probably look at mine with 15k on the clock.
Those bearings don’t sound bad to me. A bit dry, yes, but not worn.
My engineering teacher taught me a good way to check ball bearings. You need to rotate the bearing while applying an an axial load on it. This load will push the balls into any pits or imperfections in the race, and you’ll be able to feel the roughness. Just spinning it won’t help, as there is a minuscule gap between the balls and races
Best video in a little while. Thank you for that
Awesome video, thanks Shane. Just serviced mine while using this as a guide.
If you dont have a felt tip pen like Shane has, you can use a 10mm allen key to push the bearings in.
Thanks for this. Love my Assioma pedals / power meter.
Another reason for me to buy this brand. Cheers mate
This video is BRILLIANT! Recently bought a set of assiomas, the thought of the bearings wearing was the biggest concern. Not anymore, will be back in another 9000km or so to check this again! Thanks 😃
Awesome! Give them a quick spin on the bike every now and then checking for that grinding you can hear with one of my pedals. Also remember to use a torque wrench only for the tightening of the bolts (loosening best done with a standard wrench)... yeah, I took shortcuts here.... but the goal was to show how easy it was to do, so job done.
@@gplama thanks, I will do that. Your video is really logical and easy to follow. Clear and simple instructions, perfect.
@@gplama MY LUCK... literally the next ride after seeing this video, I FELL OFF MY BIKE.. GRRR.... broken the pedal body for my Assioma, the cleat retention system snapped off. Still, at least thanks to you when the replacement flatform arrives I will have no trouble fixing it all together.
Sweet! I feel like mine need replacing after over two years use!
Great video thanks Shane, I love my Assioma's, great product for a competitive price.
Great video, thanks for sharing this 👍 I just followed this video when servicing, well, changing i should say the bearings in my Favero Assioma Uno pedals.
Very helpful video. Thanks!
the serviceability seems to be really good
Great video as expected.... you might have a future in youtube tear down vids!
A few suggestions for anyone planning to go through this (i may need to soon):
1. **removed**
2. When removing and torquing the nut on the end of the spindle, take care not to grip the electronics pod. Its easy to hold there to keep things steady, but only hold the allen/hex. If you have the option, clamp the hex in a vice with the end facing up and set the pedal on top.
Good point about the torque wrench. Since those pro ones can click in both directions (eg torquing the pedals) you can set it to it's max and hope it doesn't click when you need to undo it
Just watched the part that he said it's ok as there wasn't much leverage. Fair enough
I knew I'd get pulled up on this. I mentioned it. I didn't want to re-film it all. The Internet though... I get it. But when people care about a torque wrench but never care to ask how I am... it's a shitty place. Good thanks.
@@gplama Hope you are having a great day. The video was super informative and I watched it even though I don't even have power meter pedals. Should have watched the whole video before commenting....
All good mate. Cheers. :)
Thanks for the video. I got one bearing from my left pedal broken into pieces after 16k km.
Like the overhead video. Nice
Shane’s bearings came out quite easily. I needed lubricant to get mine out.
Thanks Shane it was awesome
i wonder why they don't use shielded bearings, plus the kit seems rather pricey. are those standard sized, e.g. could you order some 2rs ones from a quality manufacturer (like skf, ntn) on the aftermarket...?
My bearings went out after 9months and it scored the spindle. I tried to get Favor to warranty the bearings and they will If I pay a huge shipping cost from Italy. Just go buy bearings from the local Remote Control car store, they are much cheaper and you won't have to waste 3 weeks of your life in emails with them. The bearings are 10x15x4mm (4needed) and 6x13x5mm (2 needed) the cost at the RC store is less than half the cost from Favero, and the quality looks to much better. If you are not in a rush, order them online and it will be half of what the RC store was. They won't allow their resellers to do warranty work, or ship parts. I bought them from the largest reseller in the USA.
Hi Greg, this happened to me, but after at least 12 months (my fault for not checking). The bearings disintegrated and scored the plastic body. What this meant was that I could only fit 1 set of bearings on the inside of the pedal. I eventually bought a new set of pedal bodies 120 EUROS. If it's wet, and I live in the UK, you have to check more than the recommended replacement duration of 10,000 km. I recently replaced the bearings after 8 months of use and the bearings were rusty and slightly gritty.
No recalibration required? Continually impressed by Favaro. Italian engineering at its best.
Just a zero offset after reinstall (standard operation). I did another zero 15mins into today's ride. Solid data for 80km. All good so far.
I just did mine like a month ago and I did pedal body replacement. Did u know that the pedal body is actually a little bit changed than the original one. I think its because the nut right after the endcap. I had to buy 3 different wrench to fit in to that nut. Mine was much much tighter not like yours. so i needed perfect wrench to fit in. Replcement body had no problem fitting the wrench in. Plus it became thinner(you will notice if you see them).
My faith in humanity is restored at @0:41
Are you suggesting that not reading instructions gives you faith in humanity? I'm not saying Shane didn't read them (after all, he had to figure out the torque somehow), he just got rid of them for the camera, but that's how you mean it? People learn from experience. That means making mistakes. Some mistakes are best avoided. And why needlessly make stupid mistakes? It's not bad when one accepts that he or she doesn't know everything. That we can miss, not realize. A bit of humility restores my faith, for a change. :-) That's how we get "objects are closer than they appear" or "check your surroundings" warnings staring in our faces all the time cluttering the environment, because putting them in the manual isn't enough, apparently (and they would fall into the silly [ass covering] category even in a manual).
I found today annoying play on pedals. Learned from your video how to disassemble.. Tighten nut did not help. But after tightening external plug, no play anymore.
thanks for the video. i was able to replace the bearings. but...1 question--what is the black nut for?? didn't look like you used it. i didn't either.
Hi Shane. Looking to get my first power meter, these are one of my preferred options. Once installed and paired to your wahoo, is that all that needs to be done?
Pretty much. You unbox them, install them, open their app and set the crank length, check firmware is up to date, and you're done. ua-cam.com/video/oWOlKT3jDJs/v-deo.html
Great Post Shane, I took mine off at 5k km and noticed there is a roller bearing at then AND a polymer, or du, bearing closer to the centre of the axle. Now I not worried about the roller bearing, but the du bearing always sees the same push force from the pedal stroke. Hence it wears only on about 33% of the area. I think this gives the flex/play over time. Knowing this it is not just distance cycled but, distance cycled at what average power. I checked mine and I averaged ~250w for the 5k km and start to notice play in the du bearing. Once the polymer is run off its done and relying only on the left over grease. Once the metal of the pedal arm starts to get damaged its the end of the power meter. Would you share your avg power over the 10k km? To give an insight?
Interesting watching this my torque meter only works in the clockwise direction, and also my 9mm socket's external diameter was too big to fit.
Thank you for the instructional video. Any idea how much is costs to replace the factory installed rechargeable battery after it has gone through is life cycle?
The Favero online shop has all the parts / breakout things to order. The axle/sensors are the $$ part. US$321.00 each side at the moment.
The lone dislike (as of this writing) bought Vector Pedals instead. Wah Wah. -U10
Never use a torque wrench for loosening bolts, you can mess up the calibration
Yes. Mentioned in my video.
@@gplama also clicking several times over-torques the bolt. Most likely you didin't go over 10Nm but its not a good example for others to follow
@@Horstelin Yep. Best others don't follow my example. My previous 900 videos, especially the tubeless tyre videos are a good indication of this :)
I didn't know that. Been using the torque wrench for loosening too.
Not necessarily. There are torque wrenches and screwdrivers where the manufacturer allows this, even for seized fasteners (like Wera, Stahlwille). That's actually the danger. That you might encounter a fastener that requires too much torque to break loose and you inadvertently go outside the range of that tool (which can not only mess up calibration, but also damage the wrench, depending on how far you go). Other than that, loosening is not a problem. Of course, always defer to the manufacturer's guidance.
Hello. I am not able to find the 9 mm socket, all the keys I am using are not working. Do you know where I can find it?
Local hardware store
I asked these guys if they would do an MTB/ SPD version (i'm a roady, but i do like to wear 'sensible' shoes). Got a real short reply of "No". Fair enough, but I know a whole world of people that'd purchase them: and now to see the power-measuring part so neatly contained within just a 'frame'...sheesh! Annoyingly, I ride past their hq on one of the rides I do, too. Favero, campagnolo, wilier...all within shouting distance, yet they're all stuck up their own bits in their own ways :-)
It's just business. If there's a market there for SPD pedals that would be profitable (taking into account EVERYTHING... cost to develop, sell, maintenance, support, etc) then someone will likely step in and fill the void. Sometimes what we want and what makes financial sense are different things. This doesn't mean they're stuck up in any way. The alternative would be to produce a product.... have it fail... and maybe have the company cease operations. That's livelihoods impacted. For the consumer it's almost of no relevance at all, we just shop elsewhere.
Hi Shane,
Have you see any problem or know about a problem were the left pedal suddenly stops working? I doesnt power on unless you connect it to the charger and has a pattern on the light being on and hold the light for 5 seconds and then starts blinking about 10 times in a endless cycle. Attached to the charger i can connect the app to them and they are recognize, however the zero manual offset fails. The firmware is upto date. I cannot do anything else. Really appreciate your answer, regards from Costa Rica.
Not a problem I've had across four sets of Assioma DUO pedals. Make sure the cable is correctly inserted into the charger too. Otherwise best to contact Favero Support.
recently crashed...had to replace the left side of my older (silver or grey spring) assiomas. there are a few companies selling them. a few notes for those doing the same:
1) i bought the newer (black spring) body because the site said it was the exact same with just a bigger range of cleat tension (old silver/grey spring version was 11-20 and newer black spring version is 8-20 nm) for the same price. the kit came with the body, one bearing (not sure of the size sorry), the m6 nut, the 'oil retainer', and a new plastic cap for the outside of the pedal.
2)the nut on both versions was an M6 and I used a tiny multi-tool 9mm socket without any problem.
3)*big point here* the newer black spring version has *one* bearing (and it is a different size) on the non-crank side of the pedal. i panicked when i first saw it b/c i thought the sent the wrong pedal. fit fine though because the bore inside the new pedal body has changed to accommodate the different bearing.
so, if you are replacing bearings keep in mind you are going to need to know which version you have. someone below kindly posted the bearing sizes of the silver/grey (i think?) in case you want to buy on your own (and cheaper)--but again, this solo bearing is a different size.
4)*the newer black spring pedal body (as a couple people noted but i didn't read until now) is a slightly different color (darker black) than the silver/grey spring version. i was a bit bummed, but i am pretty sure no one will ever notice.
5)finally, the whole process was so easy. I used my finger to punch the bearing in (the new body actually came with the crank side bearing already installed so it was just the one on the non-crank side that needed placement) but also jammed a pen in there like Shane just to be sure. the whole process from pedal off bike to pedal on bike was about 10 minutes and i am no mechanic.
really finally: thanks Shane!
Interesting. I removed the bearings from the black spring pedal bodies and replaced them with the ones from my silver spring bodies... (which were recently replaced). I'll have to have a closer look.
Hi Shane, could you let me know which model of Pro Torque tool are you using? I see your one works in both ways, clockwise and counter clockwise. Thanks in advance.
PRO Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3Dvu4uo
Where did you grab the bearing set from, just forward planning for the end of year servicing?
Direct from Favero. Standard servicing. I'm sure 'ol grindy had a few 1000km left in it... but... smoother is better. :)
@@gplama absolutely agree. Need to now add lithium grease to the list of lubricants. Cheers
@@gplama should've tested how many watts were lost to bad bearings!
In an other video about that I saw, that the pedal is loose (sideways) even after tighten it with 8-10nm until you apply the end cap. I also noticed that on my pedals. Is that correct or does that really make sense?
This is correct.
Would like to know the 2 bearing sizes (perhaps in their white papers). Good bearings of these relative sizes can be had very cheap from various RC car bearing retailers. Yes you would be reusing the nuts and retainers but the business portion is getting replaced. If both sizes are something AVID RC sells (likely) then all 6 will cost just over 6bux. -U10
Avid has them. 15x10mm (4) and 6x13mm (2) according to B-D. Whole set 6$ You can even go ceramics for 30$/set. -U10
and a whole knew saga of powermeter testing/calibration begins to verify accuracy is maintained :) ....
More rabbit holes! Bearing replacement shouldn't have any impact on the readings. 78km done on them today. The numbers looked good. A Lama Lab Test is already on the cards with these, the Neo, and another power meter. Two birds with one stone tests are good.
@@gplama So if I have a consistent 5% difference between a Neo 2T and Assioma I shoudln't blame the Assioma bearings... or should I try?
You state that you did 10000 km. Do you know how many hours of riding that roughly equates to? I log my component usage but much of the time is indoors so I can't relate to outdoor riding miles, I log time rather than distance.
I'm just trying to work out if this is something I need to consider soon
Ride time, no idea. I'd have to look back at my training log. Bearing lifespan depends a LOT on the conditions. Some people might only get a few 1000km from these if riding in shitty conditions. You can get a feel for how the bearings are holding up with a quick spin test.
Very nice video! Will these pedals get the 'cycling dynamics' one day? Firmware update?
Favero have indicated there is an update soon with Cycling Dynamics.
Hi Shane,
Very informative Video. Do You think 10tk is ok to need a replacement for the bearing?
It depends on usage. If they've been ridden in rain and grit more, maybe sooner.
Ok, I have 5.000 k outdoor and 2.000 indoor on my pedals. I will Check at the End of the
Season.
So smoother is better, but is it faster? The pod seemed to spin much longer before coming to a stop before the bearings were replaced
It would have to be tested under load.
@@gplama good point. Thanks!
wow that was easy. thanks for the video. do you know if the replacement pedal bodies come with new bearings?
I believe they do. Best check with Favero before ordering.
@@gplama Not there yet - just trying to be prepared. I will check! My dual Pioneer pm has been giving me nothing but problems since I purchased their clearance stock. Sent in for service 5 times in 4 months. It’s time to move on!
@@gplama wanted to ask... if I use these pedals on a given crank, and then swap cranks (same crank length), would I have to re pair the pedals on my head unit or app?
It's possible to know the measure of bearing ? i want to change whit ceramic
Dear Shane, thank you for this Video. I have the BePro pedal system and can not undo the outer srew which is protecting the nut. Do you have any suggestions or tips ?
I'm not familiar with the BePro pedals sorry. Maybe check the Favero website for the parts/spec breakout, then contact Favero support if that doesn't have the info you need.
@@gplama it is the same outer screw but seems broken due to a crash in a round about. Thank you.
In that case you'll need to get creative. Maybe use a Dremel and convert it to a large flat-head screw.
Is there any posibilty that a play in pedals to affect power readings?i found in my last rides using tacx neo 1 and favero on rouvy climbs,that favero are like 1% under tacx neo.it was like 1.5% higher in the past but now is a little under always.also the balance seems to be like 1 or 2% affected.i also noticed that one bearing had play..thanks!
Maybe..... the percentages you're quoting are within the accuracy ranges of the pedals and NEO. If the bearings have play, get that resolved and retest.
@@gplama thanks.
Thanks for the guidance!
Can I use Parktool PPL-1 (Polylube 1000
Polyurea grease)?
No idea. I guess so.
Is there a ceramic bearings as a replacement for this. I did already 5k on my pedals and just bought it this year would that means I will replace them most likely next year.
Not that I’m aware of.
Do you have to use lithium grease, or does good ol' Park Tool high performance blue stuff fit the bill?
Anything waterproof is fine so yes
rojoracing53 thanks!
Soooo ASMR
*whispers* oh yeah */whispers*
I have rewatch your test and concern about not able to replace the battery. Do you think the battery is weaker or so you have no Problems at All?
Given the problems the Vectors and Powertaps have had with battery doors, the sealed battery is probably the better way. Rechargeable batteries typically lose 20% of capacity over 500 charge cycles. For a phone with a daily charge cycle, you can reach this point in 18 months. For a PM with monthly charge cycle, this will take decades.
100% with Andrew on this one. Replaceable batteries are a great idea, if they don't introduce problems like we've seen. If was to get 2 years from a set of Assiomas then that's still a good buy, imo. I suspect they'll last a lot longer than that.
Thanks man after the whole iq2.. Thing i think i will save my money for this pair seems to be a good Deal. Ride on love your channel
Can the worn bearings cause inaccurate power readings?
One for Favero Support. If your bearings are that bad, it’s time to replace them.
Shane, could you tell me what you would choose between a stages Gen3 L a 4iiii L both dura ace or the assioma ? My only worry about the assioma is the battery sealed...
Assioma for what I do and due to the readings I get from Shimano RIGHT cranks with strain gauges on them. BUT. This isn't purchase advice for anyone. What I would choose might be interesting, but it's irrelevant for anyone else but me.
Shane Miller - GPLama I know but I needed to ask lol And after 10000km with the assioma, how does the battery life change ? Thank you a lot and greetings from France
@@stratoscreamer I've done about five or six recharges, from memory.... no noticeable change in battery life.
Shane Miller - GPLama thank you very much Shane !
Whats happen if I don’t have the retainer ?
One for Favero support.
Hello Shane, i have a problem with my new power meter, is a Watteam Powerbeat g2 , i bougt it and i realize they go out off bisness.
I cant calibrate becose i cant create a new user in the app.
¿Can you help me anyway?
Thanks in advance
There’s nothing I can do with this.
@@gplama do you have an acount i can use? thanks anyway men
@@LaMartiLoca That's not something I'd be willing to give away sorry.
@@gplamaI understand, but you can't blame me for trying.
Don’t have those instructions lying around? The replacement set I got didn’t come with any.
I'd have to dig them out. Everything should be in this video (I hope!)
Shane Miller - GPLama is there a torque recommendation for the black end cap? Also my torque wrench wont work with the reverse threads ie right pedal. It won’t ‘click’. If that makes sense.
This info is in the user manual over on the Favero website. End cap (2-3 Nm). It's tight-ish... but also not critical for power accuracy so installing (carefully) without a torque wrench will be possible.
Shane Miller - GPLama love your work Shane. Appreciate your time. Stay safe and keep pushing the pedals.
HELP! I cannot for the life of me find a socket for the M6 (10 mm) nut that will fit in pedal. Suggestions?
Mine was from a really cheap socket set from a hardware store. Take the pedal into one and see if they can match it up with a socket. It should be pretty common/standard.
Thanks @@gplama My 9 mm socket wouldn't fit the recess, so I took the pedal to a hardware store and USD 2.00 later I was swapping out defective power spindle. The back and forth of nearly a month with Favero support to get the replacement had me in a foul mood. Never wrench angry.
@Shane Where did you get the 9mm socket for the M6 nut?
Out of a standard socket set from the hardware store here (Bunnings)
@@gplama Thanks! Btw this is the video Favero sends you when you ask for help with replacing the spindle. Excellent work!
Excellent. That's awesome to know they're sending people over here.
The Bearing numbers please
www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/favero-assioma-bearing-replacements/40035/3
If I bought those pedals I’d expect 6 years hard use before changing the bearings.
Maria takes at least 30 minutes to do this.
Did you just put lithium grease on ceramic bearings?
Ceramic? Nope.
I just had a left spindle fail after just 6 months. Favero quickly agreed to send me a new spindle. BUT then the fun started, a 9mm socket with an outside diameter less than 13mm is required to open up the pedals to do any servicing. Can I find such a socket anywhere??? Nope. Impossible. I am intrigued whether GP Lama has a secret supplier…..or just got lucky and had a socket already that fitted. Anybody any suggestions?????
The socket I had was from a dirt-cheap socket set. Take the pedal to a quality hardware store and see if they can find something that'll fit.
@@gplamayou obviously got lucky with the socket you already had. The one i already own measured 13.4mm and didn't come close to fitting inside the pedal. I have since tried very many other 9mm sockets, none fitted, it really has to be less than 13mm outside diameter to fit inside the pedal. I spoke with Park Tools they don't even make one that fits. Favero weren't any help with this issue either, all they could suggest was a Tekton "thin wall" 9mm socket....but Tekton are American and don't ship to Europe....thanks for that suggestion Favero!!. So trawling the specs of all the tool mfrs now desperately seeking 9mm socket with OD less than 13mm - most mfrs don't even publicise this dimension as it doesnt matter for 99% of applications. For me the serviceability at home of the Assiomas is a really big attraction, but buyer beware, you need to find the right tool to be able to open them up.