I think older ones. Not sure about new ones. Seems those have gremlins. Me and my parents have high mileage trucks. Burn oil. But never let us down. My dad already hit 500k last month.
The premature fuel pump problem on these trucks is due to people driving with tank too empty. The fuel pump needs fuel in order to cool itself. Many people ride the “e” with the gas gauge. Not good on any car
If I'm not mistaken, the fuel issue he's referring to is an issue I've had on my GM vehicles where it is very difficult to pump fuel due to poor venting of the gas tank. The fuel pump pushes fuel out of the tank into the rails/injectors. A bad fuel pump would not dictate an inability to load fuel into the tank. Rather the opposite. When you overfill your gas tank as some people call "topping off", you have spillage into your charcoal canister (also known as the evap canister) usually mounted above the rear differential. It is an activated charcoal canister with a fuel line running in, one running out, and an electronic sensor to detect small/large evap leaks. The activated charcoal comes in contact with gasoline, shrinks, and then gets caught in the lines running to the gas tank, thereby clogging the inlet and making it very difficult to pump fuel. Edit: This can be solved by dropping the gas tank via the two straps, removing the lines, and blowing them out with compressed air to remove the charcoal bits. A bad charcoal canister can be diagnosed by taking it off of the bracket and turning it upside down. If charcoal spills out, it is bad. It comes from GM and aftermarket manufacturers (I've had both) with a fiberglass layer inside of the canister to prevent the beads from running through the lines. I only figured this out after replacing the canister, vent valve, vent valve solenoid, and the purge valve. Another dummy test would be a faulty o-ring in the gas cap... always buy OEM for safety systems.
I kept coming back to this video since I own one of these so that I can tackle some of the issues. Maybe it helps you guys too. #1. Intake gasket. # 2. Knock sensor # 3. Oil cooler line block 2mm bolts/gasket # 4. O-ring by # 5. Hot AC. Tiny tensioner by cerpentine belt # 6. Evap vent dirty. # 7. Gage cluster out of whack. Bad cluster. # 8. Abs and brake light. Bad abs control module. # 9 & 10. Ground wire under driver seat goes bad. Bolt by manifold.
I'm building a 6.0 right now. The rear knock sensor was toast, sitting in 2" of water. Both rear manifold bolts were broken off. This is a good top 10 list. These motors are so easy to work on and parts are relatively cheap. Oh yeah, hello from KC!
03 Z71 484,000 miles on original motor.... replaced; transmission twice, front wheel bearings, heater core connections, water pump and fuel pump. That’s it. I love these old trucks.
Hi Mr Car wizard you forgot to include the front wheel hub bearings and brake calipers, slides ,. Unless you grease them when you do a, brake job your in for an experience. If you dont invest in quality hub bearings for replacement for example Timken or Moog your in for a replacement again within 60 O00 miles.. Currently I have over 375 000 miles on the engine original waterpump and clutch fan. The starter just stopped, working yesterday. I haven't been in the engine but.it runs great. I have rebuilt a 4.8 waiting when the engines decides to give up. I agree they are good engines change the oil and routine maintaince and the stay strong . I kept seeing a drip from around the the, oil filter. The gasket on the knock off plate is next to be fixed. Excellent video keep up the great work.
Now I finally know #6! I work at a gas station in NJ where its full serve... but anyways these trucks come in all the time and ask me what the problem is, and now I finally know lol :")
I grew up in Middlesex county. I used to work at a gas station near Disney World in Florida. I can't tell you how many people would come and ask me for help because they're from New Jersey and they don't know how to pump gas... That always cracked me up
I work at a full serve station as well! Such a huge problem and annoyance! Of course they go to full serve because they hate it clicking off every 20 seconds
@@snoopdogie187 yeah I know all the tricks. Sideways, half way out, shoved all the way in, shoot the gas in the hole, turn it upside down blah blah blah. Sometimes it just doesn't work :(
2007 Yukon Denali, evap canister issue too. Rear Air suspension issues, mega 175 amp fuse, checking aging grounds, mirror motor, wheel hubs, front upper and lower control arm joints, alternator and battery. Since 2007, I'd say that sums up the issues I've had. Recently I found the air suspension doesn't even through codes to the dash or generic scanners, but if that compressor doesn't turn on then something is up. Generally the compressor, leaking shocks, and a blown main comp fuse. Love the 6.2 motor though!
Whoa! This video is like gold man! I right now have the evap check engine light on. And that stupid abs/traction control (service stability) shit flashing on and off.. 2005 suburban lt. 180k miles and the motor sounds brand new... my mechanic is scratching his head telling me that they don't know what's wrong but they'll have to try a bunch of stuff to fugue it out, it'll take time..
Can you do one of these for the 4.3L? I had a 2003 Chevy Astro that was great, I had 394,000 miles on it when I sold it! And it was running fine. I then "upgraded" to a 2014 Chevy Express 1500, thinking since it was the same motor, i'm good for another 300,000+ miles... Well I can tell you that is not going to happen. I've had more problems in the 1st 100,000 miles on the 2014 than I had throughout the entire 400,000 mile lifespan of the 2003... Exhaust leaks, ABS speed sensors, high oil consumption, motor mount issues... I'm sure there's a laundry list of things I'm not remembering. I assumed Chevy had 10 years in between those models to refine and polish their design, that my new model would be like riding on a "bulletproof cloud", but all they done is figure out how to use more plastic and cheaper sheet metal that rusts away if it gets too close to a wet fart! It's ridiculous. The underside of the 2014 looks like it's been rotting in a field for 40 years...
For #6, my issue when filling up my gas tank was that the charcoal pellets from the vent canister got into the vent line. I had to suction out the vent line with a vacuum and that fixed my issue.
I just bought a 99 Sierra with the 5.3. Has 280k on it, I was expecting to have to do a ton of maintenance. Very surprisingly the truck runs and drives fantastic. Great engines in my opinion. You will not find a ford truck with that many miles without a ton of issues on an original engine.
Hey Car Wizard! Great video, (love the new intro music--big improvement!), good information, really enjoyed the "gotta get another mechanic" part! Hoovie's got some real competition!
I have the 6.0L in a 2002 Silverado and I checked off half the things you mentioned as things I've already dealt with. I've also heard there is a minor piston slap issue, but I've been pretty lucky on that one.
Honestly most of these besides the gauge cluster and manifold bolts, all of these are pretty easy and cheap to fix. Unless you're not mechanically minded then the oil pick up tube o ring.
They are bulletproof. Only problems with my 5.3 avalanche is the typical gm evap canister problems and a small oil leak. Doesnt even leak enough to fill more until the next oil change. I also drive it hard doing burnouts and stomping the gas from takeoff. The weakpoint on these vehicles are the 4l60e transmission, which mine only jerks when it shifts but it works fine for almost a 20 year old truck with 164k miles
I have an 02 1500 5.3 2WD, just hit 100k yesterday. Still running smooth as ever with the 4 speed. Leather Seats are comfy but everything else is very bland
I had a 2000 Silverado had about half of those problems happen. Sold it a year ago to my brother with 280k. He pulls his camper with it still going strong
south main auto, Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, briansmobile1, car wizard, new level auto, FordTechMakuloco. robinsonsauto and so many more are so much better than scotty shillmer
What a great informative video to help the average person from getting screwed over on repair costs. I really appreciate it. How much difference would there be be in more “performance oriented” LS engines. Even if they’d been “babied”? Like my 2006 Pontiac GTO LS2? I love the dry sense of humor at the end. It sounded more like you you hit a tool box than a human. That makes it even funnier. It does help to be connected!
No but he is telling you the reason the ENGINE might APPEAR to be running bad, via the readouts on the clusters... My old 92 S10 drops from Full to less than 3/4 tank just by turning the park lights on. If I make the dash lights as bright as possible, the gauges go down even further... Same for the Oil pressure and Voltage gauge. The actual charge never changes via a voltmeter actually hooked up to the charging system. Stays 14.6V with everything running...
I've had 3 trucks with the 5.3. Very little maintenance and they run fantastic. Easy to replace parts on. Parts are cheap. 285 horsepower all day long.
Aaron Martin TV Lol A 22r ??There no comparison to an LS engine. I’ve got a friend that runs a small garage and he swears by those little engine. He likes those model trucks and rebuilds a lot of those engines for people. But those things are pretty bad for blown head gaskets and the timing sets wearing out granted they do last a pretty good while if they are taken care of. we’ve got LS engines at work that have been beat on for 300+ thousand miles and you don’t have to do anything to them to amount to anything.Not to mention the 22r is dirt ass weak. My 92 Toyota pick up made it 187,000 before the head gasket blew and I’m not really sure why. it didn’t run hot and the water pump was OK it just blew. My uncles 90 model Made it to 205 thousand The timing chain and tensioner’s was so wore out it sounded like a diesel it also blew a head gasket for no apparent reason. My work van has an LS engine with 279,000 miles and the beat the living hell out of that thing it’s got 60 pounds of oil pressure and it’s quiet as a mouse and still runs a strong as it did the day I got it with 80 miles on it. The only two repairs I can recall was the pick up tube O-ring and the AC belt tensioner have been replaced on it.
Replacing the oil pan pickup gasket often fixes this issue. Lifter tick in these engines is generally caused by the oil not flowing through the small passages of the pushrods.
Definitely necessary to fix. A tick equals wear. I had a 5.3 wear out three cam lobes before it even started making noise. Truck had 84K on it and just out of warranty. Inside of the engine was spotless just all worn out.
I found a loose spark plug heat shield on #1 cyl. It was banging against the exhaust manifold and making the exact same sound as a lifter. Check those, it’s free.
Often, lifter tick won’t hurt an LS. My 4.8L has had a low rpm lifter tick for 50k miles with no issues. On a dyno, it didn’t see a decrease in power either.
I used to have a job where I called on dealers, got to be friends with a lot of salesmen. One of them told me not to buy anything newer then 07, way too many problems.
The 07 to 13 4.8's don't have the AFM, so it's as reliable as the 99 to 06 motors. I've got a 2010 Silverado with 115,000 miles and my 4.8 is running fine.
The 4.3 in the s10 and s10 blazers is pretty much an ls based v6 because its the 5.3 with 2 fewer cylinders and those to are crazy good. Over 400k miles on my 98 blazer and 175k on my 02 5.3 avalanche!
I had a 2000 & 2001 (both bought new) silverados and only problem that you talked about i had was the fuel gage on one of them .Over 200k on both of them.
2001 Tahoe 5.3, owned from 200k to 250k as of now. So far, A/C compressor, water pump, valve cover gaskets, alternator, radiator, starter, fuel pump. Heater core is shot but hoses are looped to engine because I can't bring myself to spend the money to tear apart the dash one piece of plastic at a time, discharge A/C and replace core, so it's a spring, summer and fall vehicle for now. By contrast, my wife's 1990 GMC pickup had a row of screws to drop a plastic cover, and the core was right there. A definite step backwards as far as serviceability is concerned... I guess it's called the "core" because the rest of the vehicle is built around it...
Dude your the man 00 Silverado had a header bolt break off. I'm about to do the o ring on the pick up 10psi is way to low for me. Fyi surprised you didnt bring up the abs speed sensor almost made me crash my truck till I removed the relay
Bruh 04 silverado here 4.8 wit 242,567 miles on her still strong I've managed to keep her away from the shops. do your regular maintenance and don't dog her out she'll last longer and yes she will let you know when something is wrong give her love and she'll love you back.. love my silverado and she knows it. 😂
Thats why I love these engines, simple and reliable. The only other engine I really appreciate is my V6 TDI in my Audi which lasted me about 382000 miles to this point. It has a tune on it with a new intake and supersprint exhaust and currently produces round 310hp and 750nm. The only thing that I replaced was the timing chain (twice) and some other minor wear and tear stuff. I own it since 290k miles, was really cheap in germany, around 9000€ and I paid another 3000€ to fix it and get modifications done
I love my Chevy trucks and look for the 5.3, but of course I wait until they'e 10 or 15 yrs old to buy them. I've fixed the cluster in my last 2 trucks myself, you can buy a kit with the upgraded stepper motors for around $30 off of Amazon. I usually replace the bulbs with LED's while I'm there, I usually do the same with the radio and switches if I get bored. If you're a little bit of a DIY'er you can do it, take your time and the cluster might take you 2 or 3 hrs to rebuild.
Oh i see now you are a ford gay! You are on the wrong video bud! This video is about a chevy 5.3 engine.not a ford 5.4, 4.6, slowyote or whatever boat anchor your thinking of ! Have a nice day now!
Spent the last 20 years as a fleet mechanic . These were very common problems hell some of them were leaving the dealer with bad lifters. Every one of our 5.3 had massive oil consumption . Low oil pressure . Besides the trucks having broken frames bad rear ends and transmissions. Switching back to fords now the coyotes have been far superior to the ls/Lt motors.
I have a 2013 Chevy 1500 4x4 with 4.8L Recently had to take into dealer cause hard cold starts. It wasn't bad intake gaskets. My PCM is reading 57% ethanol in my fuel when I only buy 10% or less Regular gas. Turns out the PCM needs to be reflashed cause it got stuck at that point and should have never changed. So trucks fuel trims were rich cause of this. Also got mass air flow code - bank1 & bank2 rich codes which were all related to this problem.
The biggest problem with the 5.3 in my 2003 Yukon is that it will not die so I will have a good excuse to get a newer vehicle! 250k miles and it runs like a top.
297k miles finally gave out(avalanche lol). Not a mechanic have no idea where to start. So I’m here with my uncle wizard 😂. She still runs just makes a knocking sound under the engine once and a while when it’s idling
You can buy the stepper motors with bulbs for around $30, not hard to do. A guy here in New Orleans chargers about $150 and come to your vehicle 2 day turn over
The LS/Vortex motors aren’t bad, it’s mostly the plumbing and wiring that goes bad of the aux components, which is typical of any vehicle with a good engine and transmission.
Exhaust bolts. AL head- Tear out liner, drop y pipes, run engine(get it hot- coefficient of expansion is greater for AL than the steel bolts) remove bolts. Left handed drill bits are your friend. Or Weld a nut on them. Even if they are sub flush in head, weld does not stick to AL head, only broken bolt. Book time pays like 10 hrs for both sides. With a helper I can do it in under 3. Great money maker. Bolt Buster for the Y pipe bolts. Get them hot and back them out. Done half a dozen in the last 2 years (Im not a shop just side work)- never lost on one of them. Crazy how the 5.3 is so great and the 5.4 is such crap --
Very accurate my 05 Chevy 2500 has experienced almost every one of these issues you mentioned. They do have some odd little finicky issues I honestly don’t think those instrument clusters worked right from the factory lol. With that said though very good reliable platforms. Definitely some of the best around that year range.
I own a 2003 suburban and a 2003 Tahoe, they both have been excellent vehicles. The only problem I've had is the stepper motors in the instrument clusters, both have been rebuilt. Also the power seat has problems with connection corrosion, they quit working and had them fixed , other than that they haven't given me any trouble. Tahoe has 153,000 suburban has around 110,000. I actually like the suburban a little better because it has a better ride.
We have a fleet of Chevys and they suck!! Constant oil pressure issues, cam bearings wear, wiring harnesses fail, fuse box issues ALL the time, lifters go bad a lot, differential pinion, etc etc. The whole vehicle is cheaply made.
In my opinion the L96 6.0 v8 truck engine is one of the best engines ever made. A skirted 6 bolt iron block with a cast nodular iron crank is about as bulletproof as it gets. Theses engines can literally last forever if the oil is changed every 3000.
I had a 07 Savana 6.0 gas and i got it up to 460k before totaling it it still ran like new everything original except water pump and starter it was the best bang for my buck
On average I'd say most 5.3's will go 350k before possible bearing issues become inevitable. Obviously the better care and less abuse on motor will make that half million mark closer
We have a 4.8 at work that’s pushing 400,000 it had 365.000 on it the last time I seen it and it idled 40 pounds of oil pressure and had 60 going down the road. My 05 has 279,000 and it has had the O-ring on the old pick up replaced and the belt tensioner for the AC replaced and I think a set of plugs put in it. I would get in it tomorrow and drive it across country engine still runs quiet and strong and doesn’t smoke or use any oil.
mine would run but if I left it sit for a day or two it would be dead. I had to change my cluster due to the gauges acting up and the new cluster fix the other problem. the truck never dead again. turns out the cluster can get a parasitic draw. with the soder they used leaced out. I brought my old cluster with miles and vin to auto parts place and it was 610 dollars but you get 500 back for the core charge.
Wired electrical problem after trans rebuild, security system random, a/c works intermittent sometimes will not turn off with key out. Doors have a relay sounding click foot pedals random work or don’t door windows and locks random truck has lights on dash alternate on and off at random. Truck was delivered from trans shop drove 15 miles parked then drove 2 miles and airbag light came on then gauges failed then radio then door chime started random chime very confusing , my guess would be ground issue. What have you learned. I have never had a cluster effect my doors front doors are what is effected not the rear
Water pump and 02 sensors. My 2000 Silverado with the 4.8L needs the O2 sensors done, I have the ABS and Brake lights on, just replaced the water pump. Gauge cluster goes haywire every once in a while. But it's got 300k miles on it so whaddya want? 🤣
Great information, thanks. You didn’t mention anything about the lifters going bad. I hear this is a common problem with the LS platform and on my 2008 Escalade with the 6.2 - lifter starting ticking at 75k and was made the engine miss by 100k. Comments?
Did you do a video on the newer LS Direct Injection AFM engines? I'd like to see the info on those. I own a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 Direct Injection.
He's a natural shop teacher type .. being efficient with the words, helps the listener understand. Great video.
I LS swapped my washing machine. This is a very helpful video.
But how much boost are you feeding it?
Nice bro' you should race it "
Craig Pasquinzo I ls swapped my drier. Spins it, provides the heat, and provides that ls fresh scent.
@@TheMattc999 Like race gas. ?
I bet the timer started acting up didn't it
This is why I prefer GM trucks. There's no shortage of issues, but everything is pretty minor and cheap to fix, and a lot are repairs I can do myself.
Amen!!
Daniel Fricke 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I think older ones. Not sure about new ones. Seems those have gremlins. Me and my parents have high mileage trucks. Burn oil. But never let us down. My dad already hit 500k last month.
The premature fuel pump problem on these trucks is due to people driving with tank too empty. The fuel pump needs fuel in order to cool itself. Many people ride the “e” with the gas gauge. Not good on any car
If I'm not mistaken, the fuel issue he's referring to is an issue I've had on my GM vehicles where it is very difficult to pump fuel due to poor venting of the gas tank. The fuel pump pushes fuel out of the tank into the rails/injectors. A bad fuel pump would not dictate an inability to load fuel into the tank. Rather the opposite. When you overfill your gas tank as some people call "topping off", you have spillage into your charcoal canister (also known as the evap canister) usually mounted above the rear differential. It is an activated charcoal canister with a fuel line running in, one running out, and an electronic sensor to detect small/large evap leaks. The activated charcoal comes in contact with gasoline, shrinks, and then gets caught in the lines running to the gas tank, thereby clogging the inlet and making it very difficult to pump fuel.
Edit: This can be solved by dropping the gas tank via the two straps, removing the lines, and blowing them out with compressed air to remove the charcoal bits. A bad charcoal canister can be diagnosed by taking it off of the bracket and turning it upside down. If charcoal spills out, it is bad. It comes from GM and aftermarket manufacturers (I've had both) with a fiberglass layer inside of the canister to prevent the beads from running through the lines.
I only figured this out after replacing the canister, vent valve, vent valve solenoid, and the purge valve. Another dummy test would be a faulty o-ring in the gas cap... always buy OEM for safety systems.
I kept coming back to this video since I own one of these so that I can tackle some of the issues. Maybe it helps you guys too.
#1. Intake gasket.
# 2. Knock sensor
# 3. Oil cooler line block 2mm bolts/gasket
# 4. O-ring by
# 5. Hot AC. Tiny tensioner by cerpentine belt
# 6. Evap vent dirty.
# 7. Gage cluster out of whack. Bad cluster.
# 8. Abs and brake light. Bad abs control module.
# 9 & 10. Ground wire under driver seat goes bad. Bolt by manifold.
Although the A1 vid says brushclean carefully and repaint on the axle where the wheel sensor pickup is. Then it might not be the control module.
Your LS has an issue? No problem: *LS SWAP IT!*
I literally lol when I read this. Good job.
But then you'll have problems again...
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Lol
funny as shit
I'm building a 6.0 right now. The rear knock sensor was toast, sitting in 2" of water. Both rear manifold bolts were broken off. This is a good top 10 list. These motors are so easy to work on and parts are relatively cheap. Oh yeah, hello from KC!
I have a 04 yukon with the 5.3 . You just helped me so much. I really appreciate it brother. You've got some great videos.
Got one of these 3 weeks ago and have fixed 5 of these problems. And had the transmission rebuilt. Nailed it dude
Add HVAC blend door actuators. Intermediate steering shaft.
Those aren't engine related problems? Also add flakey TPS.
David Regan half of what the wizard mentioned wasn't engine related... I mean come on, the clusters? Really?
Ryan Adam so coolant temp, oil press, tachometer are not engine related? Lol
Brian Hardwick no, not when its the gauge its self thats wonky.
Ryan Adam okay true but even it’s the gauges wonky out, still need to monitor your engines vitals right?
03 Z71 484,000 miles on original motor.... replaced; transmission twice, front wheel bearings, heater core connections, water pump and fuel pump. That’s it. I love these old trucks.
You should make this a series ,
*Awesome and reliable engines with top 10 common issues*
Bought a 05 denali with low oil pressure. Changed the pick up tube o ring and now it's perfect.
Hi Mr Car wizard you forgot to include the front wheel hub bearings and brake calipers, slides ,. Unless you grease them when you do a, brake job your in for an experience. If you dont invest in quality hub bearings for replacement for example Timken or Moog your in for a replacement again within 60 O00 miles.. Currently I have over 375 000 miles on the engine original waterpump and clutch fan. The starter just stopped, working yesterday. I haven't been in the engine but.it runs great. I have rebuilt a 4.8 waiting when the engines decides to give up. I agree they are good engines change the oil and routine maintaince and the stay strong . I kept seeing a drip from around the the, oil filter. The gasket on the knock off plate is next to be fixed. Excellent video keep up the great work.
Now I finally know #6! I work at a gas station in NJ where its full serve... but anyways these trucks come in all the time and ask me what the problem is, and now I finally know lol :")
I grew up in Middlesex county. I used to work at a gas station near Disney World in Florida. I can't tell you how many people would come and ask me for help because they're from New Jersey and they don't know how to pump gas... That always cracked me up
I work at a full serve station as well! Such a huge problem and annoyance! Of course they go to full serve because they hate it clicking off every 20 seconds
Just pull the nozzle out a little or angle the nozzle off of the gas door. More of these GM trucks don't work than do work.
@@snoopdogie187 yeah I know all the tricks. Sideways, half way out, shoved all the way in, shoot the gas in the hole, turn it upside down blah blah blah. Sometimes it just doesn't work :(
Jersey gas sucks now that your price is so much closer to NY's. I use to stop on 46 all the time on the way back from trips.
2007 Yukon Denali, evap canister issue too. Rear Air suspension issues, mega 175 amp fuse, checking aging grounds, mirror motor, wheel hubs, front upper and lower control arm joints, alternator and battery. Since 2007, I'd say that sums up the issues I've had.
Recently I found the air suspension doesn't even through codes to the dash or generic scanners, but if that compressor doesn't turn on then something is up. Generally the compressor, leaking shocks, and a blown main comp fuse.
Love the 6.2 motor though!
Whoa! This video is like gold man! I right now have the evap check engine light on. And that stupid abs/traction control (service stability) shit flashing on and off.. 2005 suburban lt. 180k miles and the motor sounds brand new... my mechanic is scratching his head telling me that they don't know what's wrong but they'll have to try a bunch of stuff to fugue it out, it'll take time..
Can you do one of these for the 4.3L? I had a 2003 Chevy Astro that was great, I had 394,000 miles on it when I sold it! And it was running fine. I then "upgraded" to a 2014 Chevy Express 1500, thinking since it was the same motor, i'm good for another 300,000+ miles... Well I can tell you that is not going to happen. I've had more problems in the 1st 100,000 miles on the 2014 than I had throughout the entire 400,000 mile lifespan of the 2003... Exhaust leaks, ABS speed sensors, high oil consumption, motor mount issues... I'm sure there's a laundry list of things I'm not remembering.
I assumed Chevy had 10 years in between those models to refine and polish their design, that my new model would be like riding on a "bulletproof cloud", but all they done is figure out how to use more plastic and cheaper sheet metal that rusts away if it gets too close to a wet fart! It's ridiculous. The underside of the 2014 looks like it's been rotting in a field for 40 years...
320k miles on my 04 silverado only had to replace the bearings in the rear-end.
For #6, my issue when filling up my gas tank was that the charcoal pellets from the vent canister got into the vent line. I had to suction out the vent line with a vacuum and that fixed my issue.
Just replaced my oil switch at 133,000 miles. Was reading 80 psi with engine running all the time. Used a original replacement Deacon from Amazon.
I just bought a 99 Sierra with the 5.3. Has 280k on it, I was expecting to have to do a ton of maintenance. Very surprisingly the truck runs and drives fantastic. Great engines in my opinion. You will not find a ford truck with that many miles without a ton of issues on an original engine.
I occasionally have the issue you said the ground strap under the driver's seat causes, thanks boss!
You are a Wizard and spot on.My truck has had 3 of these issues. Thanks
Hey Car Wizard! Great video, (love the new intro music--big improvement!), good information, really enjoyed the "gotta get another mechanic" part! Hoovie's got some real competition!
I have the 6.0L in a 2002 Silverado and I checked off half the things you mentioned as things I've already dealt with. I've also heard there is a minor piston slap issue, but I've been pretty lucky on that one.
would the piston slap be caused from the exhaust manifold gasket and bolts breaking off?
Honestly most of these besides the gauge cluster and manifold bolts, all of these are pretty easy and cheap to fix. Unless you're not mechanically minded then the oil pick up tube o ring.
SO, Long story short hes telling you the GM LS engines are the most reliable engines EVER made. With proper maintenance.
drunk mike they’re are basically tanks of an engine, electronics and exterior issues/cheap plastic are what you have to watch with these
They are bulletproof. Only problems with my 5.3 avalanche is the typical gm evap canister problems and a small oil leak. Doesnt even leak enough to fill more until the next oil change. I also drive it hard doing burnouts and stomping the gas from takeoff. The weakpoint on these vehicles are the 4l60e transmission, which mine only jerks when it shifts but it works fine for almost a 20 year old truck with 164k miles
I have an 02 1500 5.3 2WD, just hit 100k yesterday. Still running smooth as ever with the 4 speed. Leather Seats are comfy but everything else is very bland
Pushrods don't rotate, soooooo tip of pushrods wear and also seat in rocker arm .THAT'S where that ticking sound is coming from. Design flaw 4 sure
all rusty pieces of shit
Fixed 2 of these 10 already and you diagnosed 2 more for me 😂
I had a 2000 Silverado had about half of those problems happen. Sold it a year ago to my brother with 280k. He pulls his camper with it still going strong
Car Wizard>Scotty Kilmer
Jason Donohue Absolutely. And he’s not bias like Scotty!
Wizard is a real mechanic, not a shill for snake oil
south main auto,
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics,
briansmobile1, car wizard, new level auto,
FordTechMakuloco. robinsonsauto and so many more are so much better than scotty shillmer
Scottys voice is like nails on a chalkboard.
I feel like Eric the car guy would be a better comparison.
Haha love the reverse over the person 😂
Love my old 5300, I don't think it will ever die!
Common problem #11. The break lines under the driers side door rusts. Then you dig into it and find you need all new break lines. All of them.
What a great informative video to help the average person from getting screwed over on repair costs.
I really appreciate it.
How much difference would there be be in more “performance oriented” LS engines.
Even if they’d been “babied”?
Like my 2006 Pontiac GTO LS2?
I love the dry sense of humor at the end.
It sounded more like you you hit a tool box than a human.
That makes it even funnier.
It does help to be connected!
This is a very useful type of video. I appreciate this very much and it's a real service to the community. Thank you.
The fuel tank, gauge cluster and ac system have nothing to do with the LS platforms
No but he is telling you the reason the ENGINE might APPEAR to be running bad, via the readouts on the clusters... My old 92 S10 drops from Full to less than 3/4 tank just by turning the park lights on. If I make the dash lights as bright as possible, the gauges go down even further... Same for the Oil pressure and Voltage gauge. The actual charge never changes via a voltmeter actually hooked up to the charging system. Stays 14.6V with everything running...
@@kramnull8962 HE DID EXPAND ON THIS IN THE IN THE BEGINNING
Don’t forget about the leaking heater hose connection that causes coolant to leak on the rear cylinder #8 causing a misfire
I’m going 9 for 10 very very good information about 5.3! Thanks for this video!
Best engine ever imo
22r
I've had 3 trucks with the 5.3. Very little maintenance and they run fantastic. Easy to replace parts on. Parts are cheap. 285 horsepower all day long.
They are darn near indestructible. Seen several pushing around 750+hp with a new cam and a couple other goodies.
Aaron Martin TV Lol A 22r ??There no comparison to an LS engine. I’ve got a friend that runs a small garage and he swears by those little engine. He likes those model trucks and rebuilds a lot of those engines for people. But those things are pretty bad for blown head gaskets and the timing sets wearing out granted they do last a pretty good while if they are taken care of. we’ve got LS engines at work that have been beat on for 300+ thousand miles and you don’t have to do anything to them to amount to anything.Not to mention the 22r is dirt ass weak. My 92 Toyota pick up made it 187,000 before the head gasket blew and I’m not really sure why. it didn’t run hot and the water pump was OK it just blew. My uncles 90 model Made it to 205 thousand The timing chain and tensioner’s was so wore out it sounded like a diesel it also blew a head gasket for no apparent reason. My work van has an LS engine with 279,000 miles and the beat the living hell out of that thing it’s got 60 pounds of oil pressure and it’s quiet as a mouse and still runs a strong as it did the day I got it with 80 miles on it. The only two repairs I can recall was the pick up tube O-ring and the AC belt tensioner have been replaced on it.
@@AaronMartinCOOLVIDEO
Hahahahaha!!! 5.3 is more reliable and gets better mileage than a 22r!! Not to mention it makes three times the power.
Water pumps and the hose connections that go to the heater core will leak as they age. I would say both are common failures too:P
Sooo funny! He is explaining all the things that can happen to ANY VEHICLE
Could you please please please please address the common lifter tap in these and if it's a necessary fix or not PLEASE!
Replacing the oil pan pickup gasket often fixes this issue. Lifter tick in these engines is generally caused by the oil not flowing through the small passages of the pushrods.
Definitely necessary to fix. A tick equals wear. I had a 5.3 wear out three cam lobes before it even started making noise. Truck had 84K on it and just out of warranty. Inside of the engine was spotless just all worn out.
I found a loose spark plug heat shield on #1 cyl. It was banging against the exhaust manifold and making the exact same sound as a lifter. Check those, it’s free.
Take a bottle of the GM rear diff addative and put in the oil.
Often, lifter tick won’t hurt an LS. My 4.8L has had a low rpm lifter tick for 50k miles with no issues. On a dyno, it didn’t see a decrease in power either.
How about review LS engines 2007 and above with the fuel management system
I used to have a job where I called on dealers, got to be friends with a lot of salesmen. One of them told me not to buy anything newer then 07, way too many problems.
The 07 to 13 4.8's don't have the AFM, so it's as reliable as the 99 to 06 motors. I've got a 2010 Silverado with 115,000 miles and my 4.8 is running fine.
If you get one take it to a person who tunes them and have that shit turned off
Yeah the vanos system can be a real pain, a lot of owners seem to do the delete instead of repairing that system
The 4.3 in the s10 and s10 blazers is pretty much an ls based v6 because its the 5.3 with 2 fewer cylinders and those to are crazy good. Over 400k miles on my 98 blazer and 175k on my 02 5.3 avalanche!
I actually never encounter the problems you mentioned other than the oil block off plate. I always see throttle body and oil pressure sensor problems
Beautiful Mazda Millennia in the background! That was my first car with the pearl white and gold trim!
Shhhhh.. thats a sore point for the Wizard
I had a 2000 & 2001 (both bought new) silverados and only problem that you talked about i had was the fuel gage on one of them .Over 200k on both of them.
I own a chevrolet silverado and had a GMC sierra with no engine problems driving them for the last 12 years.
2001 Tahoe 5.3, owned from 200k to 250k as of now. So far, A/C compressor, water pump, valve cover gaskets, alternator, radiator, starter, fuel pump. Heater core is shot but hoses are looped to engine because I can't bring myself to spend the money to tear apart the dash one piece of plastic at a time, discharge A/C and replace core, so it's a spring, summer and fall vehicle for now. By contrast, my wife's 1990 GMC pickup had a row of screws to drop a plastic cover, and the core was right there. A definite step backwards as far as serviceability is concerned... I guess it's called the "core" because the rest of the vehicle is built around it...
Dude your the man 00 Silverado had a header bolt break off. I'm about to do the o ring on the pick up 10psi is way to low for me. Fyi surprised you didnt bring up the abs speed sensor almost made me crash my truck till I removed the relay
I have a 2001 Tahoe that occcasional shows the abs and brake light. Should I pull that relay? What happened when you nearly crashed?
Bruh 04 silverado here 4.8 wit 242,567 miles on her still strong I've managed to keep her away from the shops. do your regular maintenance and don't dog her out she'll last longer and yes she will let you know when something is wrong give her love and she'll love you back.. love my silverado and she knows it. 😂
Thats why I love these engines, simple and reliable. The only other engine I really appreciate is my V6 TDI in my Audi which lasted me about 382000 miles to this point. It has a tune on it with a new intake and supersprint exhaust and currently produces round 310hp and 750nm. The only thing that I replaced was the timing chain (twice) and some other minor wear and tear stuff. I own it since 290k miles, was really cheap in germany, around 9000€ and I paid another 3000€ to fix it and get modifications done
I have experienced all these problems. Thank you so much for the insight. Great engines despite the known issues.
Rear main seal leaks are a pain to fix
I love my Chevy trucks and look for the 5.3, but of course I wait until they'e 10 or 15 yrs old to buy them. I've fixed the cluster in my last 2 trucks myself, you can buy a kit with the upgraded stepper motors for around $30 off of Amazon. I usually replace the bulbs with LED's while I'm there, I usually do the same with the radio and switches if I get bored. If you're a little bit of a DIY'er you can do it, take your time and the cluster might take you 2 or 3 hrs to rebuild.
You forgot about the ground wire from the harness to the firewall, that little wire causes all kinds of havoc on the computer.
You missed a couple
Piston skirt scuffing causing massive oil consumption and piston slap on start up
Cam and lifter failure . Causing miss fires
Those are pretty much none existent problems. Very rare.
Oh i see now you are a ford gay! You are on the wrong video bud! This video is about a chevy 5.3 engine.not a ford 5.4, 4.6, slowyote or whatever boat anchor your thinking of ! Have a nice day now!
Spent the last 20 years as a fleet mechanic . These were very common problems hell some of them were leaving the dealer with bad lifters. Every one of our 5.3 had massive oil consumption . Low oil pressure . Besides the trucks having broken frames bad rear ends and transmissions. Switching back to fords now the coyotes have been far superior to the ls/Lt motors.
@@lowridersvt lmao ! Have fun with those pieces of shit !
lowridersvt I can confirm this, very common problem with lifters
I have a 2013 Chevy 1500 4x4 with 4.8L
Recently had to take into dealer cause hard cold starts. It wasn't bad intake gaskets. My PCM is reading 57% ethanol in my fuel when I only buy 10% or less Regular gas. Turns out the PCM needs to be reflashed cause it got stuck at that point and should have never changed. So trucks fuel trims were rich cause of this. Also got mass air flow code - bank1 & bank2 rich codes which were all related to this problem.
my truck had several of these issues. wish I would have watched this video last year
I have a 2004 Avalanche with 225,000 miles...dead on accurate!
The biggest problem with the 5.3 in my 2003 Yukon is that it will not die so I will have a good excuse to get a newer vehicle! 250k miles and it runs like a top.
Damn you just nailed common issues 1-3. On my GMC Sierra 6.0
297k miles finally gave out(avalanche lol). Not a mechanic have no idea where to start. So I’m here with my uncle wizard 😂. She still runs just makes a knocking sound under the engine once and a while when it’s idling
You can buy the stepper motors with bulbs for around $30, not hard to do. A guy here in New Orleans chargers about $150 and come to your vehicle 2 day turn over
Great info! esp. on items that would NOT be obvious except for your experience, so BIG thank you.
My 5.3 Suburban has 542K miles on it. Had a few of these issues, but overall....it's been a good one.
2003
The LS/Vortex motors aren’t bad, it’s mostly the plumbing and wiring that goes bad of the aux components, which is typical of any vehicle with a good engine and transmission.
Exhaust bolts. AL head- Tear out liner, drop y pipes, run engine(get it hot- coefficient of expansion is greater for AL than the steel bolts) remove bolts. Left handed drill bits are your friend. Or Weld a nut on them. Even if they are sub flush in head, weld does not stick to AL head, only broken bolt. Book time pays like 10 hrs for both sides. With a helper I can do it in under 3. Great money maker. Bolt Buster for the Y pipe bolts. Get them hot and back them out. Done half a dozen in the last 2 years (Im not a shop just side work)- never lost on one of them. Crazy how the 5.3 is so great and the 5.4 is such crap --
The great fabulous car wizard doesn't even return any messages that are left for him he's so damn busy
I'm surprised you didn't mention PCV valve going bad and causing excessive oil consumption.
Thank you for the info. 2 of those problems i have. Now i know where to look
My Ls Silverado 6.0 has 340000 on it still runs good ,,, the ending would have been funny if u ran over to check out ur bumper
Very accurate my 05 Chevy 2500 has experienced almost every one of these issues you mentioned. They do have some odd little finicky issues I honestly don’t think those instrument clusters worked right from the factory lol. With that said though very good reliable platforms. Definitely some of the best around that year range.
I own a 2003 suburban and a 2003 Tahoe, they both have been excellent vehicles. The only problem I've had is the stepper motors in the instrument clusters, both have been rebuilt. Also the power seat has problems with connection corrosion, they quit working and had them fixed , other than that they haven't given me any trouble. Tahoe has 153,000 suburban has around 110,000. I actually like the suburban a little better because it has a better ride.
We have a fleet of Chevys and they suck!! Constant oil pressure issues, cam bearings wear, wiring harnesses fail, fuse box issues ALL the time, lifters go bad a lot, differential pinion, etc etc. The whole vehicle is cheaply made.
Do most common failures in the 5.7 hemis
MrBullya thats what i want to see thinking of getting one
The hemi is great, its the entire rest of the car that falls apart
Bent rods, I've seen a burnt valve or 2 cause a misfire
+1 for AFM/DOD lifter failure.
Do a video on the 2000 to 2010 3.5, 3.6, 3.8 and 3.9 GM v6 engines common issues
Timing chain from hell on the ly7
Surprised no mention of the ac blend door actuators.
320,000 miles on my factory 6.0...still runs like a top and fixen to throw a 6.0 in my 2 door Tahoe
In my opinion the L96 6.0 v8 truck engine is one of the best engines ever made. A skirted 6 bolt iron block with a cast nodular iron crank is about as bulletproof as it gets. Theses engines can literally last forever if the oil is changed every 3000.
The last section of the video was funny.
Mechanic shortage going on
2004 ls 4.8 220,000 still runs like new awesome
So how many miles is too many miles on these engines?
I had a 07 Savana 6.0 gas and i got it up to 460k before totaling it it still ran like new everything original except water pump and starter it was the best bang for my buck
On average I'd say most 5.3's will go 350k before possible bearing issues become inevitable. Obviously the better care and less abuse on motor will make that half million mark closer
Ttt
Had a 94 with 365,000 when I sold it. Went through a quart of oil between oil changes but still ran like a champ.
We have a 4.8 at work that’s pushing 400,000 it had 365.000 on it the last time I seen it and it idled 40 pounds of oil pressure and had 60 going down the road. My 05 has 279,000 and it has had the O-ring on the old pick up replaced and the belt tensioner for the AC replaced and I think a set of plugs put in it. I would get in it tomorrow and drive it across country engine still runs quiet and strong and doesn’t smoke or use any oil.
I did the gauge cluster myself and added blue lights
Mr. Wizward we love combos lol can yku do the JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE OVERLAND ? That would be awesome... so many recalls and problems
Year 1999-2004 4.7 h.o
mine would run but if I left it sit for a day or two it would be dead. I had to change my cluster due to the gauges acting up and the new cluster fix the other problem. the truck never dead again. turns out the cluster can get a parasitic draw. with the soder they used leaced out. I brought my old cluster with miles and vin to auto parts place and it was 610 dollars but you get 500 back for the core charge.
Wired electrical problem after trans rebuild, security system random, a/c works intermittent sometimes will not turn off with key out. Doors have a relay sounding click foot pedals random work or don’t door windows and locks random truck has lights on dash alternate on and off at random. Truck was delivered from trans shop drove 15 miles parked then drove 2 miles and airbag light came on then gauges failed then radio then door chime started random chime very confusing , my guess would be ground issue. What have you learned. I have never had a cluster effect my doors front doors are what is effected not the rear
What a simple yet amazing video. Thanks!
I had 3 of those issues on my secondhand '07 Silverado between 160k and 200k km. Wish I'd seen this video seven years ago...
Water pump and 02 sensors. My 2000 Silverado with the 4.8L needs the O2 sensors done, I have the ABS and Brake lights on, just replaced the water pump. Gauge cluster goes haywire every once in a while. But it's got 300k miles on it so whaddya want? 🤣
No mention of the PCV issue or valve cover problem causing large oil consumption and smoke?
Great information, thanks. You didn’t mention anything about the lifters going bad. I hear this is a common problem with the LS platform and on my 2008 Escalade with the 6.2 - lifter starting ticking at 75k and was made the engine miss by 100k. Comments?
where is your shop you sir are a honest mechanic
Did you do a video on the newer LS Direct Injection AFM engines? I'd like to see the info on those. I own a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 Direct Injection.
Even with these issues you can still make over 1,000 hp more reliably than with any hell demon kitty engines
Nice work wizard I always enjoy your videos.
So informative and fun to watch. Thx Wizard.
love my 2002 5.3 LS Swap into a 1984 K1500