If this guy is the only one on the planet rebuilding these things, shouldn't someone learn from him and create a business? It's supposed to be capitalism man.
@@dingdong2103 But is this rebuilder retired and working out of his garage? How do you find him and does he want to teach someone? I found a rebuilder of 1990's Toyota Corolla double-diaphrahm distributors local to me.... but the next time I needed one rebuilt he had sold the "rights" to his process and the custom made hardware to do the job...to a business 800 miles away... There was a restriction of trade clause as well so he could never do another distributor....
I'm a DIY guy. Novice mechanic. (Professional engineer.) I did this job on my 2000 Silverado a few years ago. It took me 16 hours! It all went perfectly, nothing broken, no left over mystery fasteners. Replaced all the door actuators. Etc. It was a crazy job. Thank you for making this video! Your deadpan delivery is perfect. I feel redeemed.
I love that you're so good at explaining to the general public exactly why labor bills can get so high and when it's just not worth repairing. I bet there are customer/repairman relationships benefiting from these videos all across the country
When I try to explain, and I get that blank stare, and they ask how does it take so long, then I show them something like this. Yes it does suck that bad. No I'm not ripping you off( as a matter of fact im cheaper than most) it's just that bad. Dodge just as bad, Ford just as bad, it's BS
I did my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee and that was AWFUL. My 1983 Chevy was easy peasy. And a 1986 Ford F-250 was the easiest of all, the heater core is on the engine side of the firewall. EASY. But I'd rather pull an engine than do a heater core on a more modern vehicle.
He is peak mastery. People throw around terms like master or journeyman. He is who that word is for, probably less than 5% of the people claiming it. Maybe less than 2%.
@@Bloodbain88 I did a complete HVAC refurb on my 1993 Grand Cherokee, and that only took a weekend. I found a how-to online that showed that you didn't have to remove the entire dash, you could remove 12 screws/bolts and pivot the dash away from the firewall just enough to get access to the HVAC box and get it out. It actually took less than an hour to go from a fully-installed dash to having the dash positioned so that I could get the HVAC box out. Didn't need to disconnect anything from the instrument panel, there were just some plugs in the passenger footwell that had to be unplugged. Sadly, the same trick doesn't work on the WJ Grand Cherokees, you do have to remove the dash completely.
I’ve been through similar things with my 08 Aveo. The A/C compressor stopped working on a super hot day out with the family. So I bought the parts and tore into it. My wife came out into the garage and saw the whole front end taken apart and said “ You better know how to fix it” lol. I had to tear the whole dash apart for 1 small part, but when it was done she felt the ice cold A/C and said “Thank You Honey “ That’s worth more than money 👍👍
I remember years ago in the shop; we were replacing yet another evaporator core in a mid 90's Dodge Intrepid. The customer came in later that day because he needed something out of the car for work in the morning. We had removed the dash, but time ran out, and the tech had left for the day without completing the job. The dash was totally disassembled, just like Wizard's truck. I was closing up the shop for the day, so I volunteered to go back to retrieve the item the customer needed for work in the morning. The customer insisted on going to the car to get his item. I escorted him to the car in the now darkened garage, being careful that they didn't trip over anything. When I opened the door for him, I will never forget the look on his face seeing that disassembled dash, with parts laying everywhere and wires like spaghetti. His face turned pale, and I thought he would pass out. Yes, like walking in on a loved one during open heart surgery! After he got his car back, every time he heard a rattle or a squeak, he would return to the shop and claim that our workmanship had to be the source of the noise because he had seen for himself how we had that dash and there is no way that the noise was not from us tearing apart the dash to change the evaporator core. I vowed never again to allow a customer to see their car in that state if I could possibly avoid it. I should have told him the truth that insurance regulations don't allow them to be in the shop. Lesson learned.
Mechanic I used in the past owned his own shop and didn't care if I watched him work on my vehicle or someone else's while we talked...always respected that.
I ran into a major problem which "I" had to solve because of a mechanics that just threw the dash back together. Screws missing everywhere. A computer not put back in its carrier properly and was shorting out every time I made left hand turns.
I use my phone camera every day when disassembling things. The trick is to take three times more pictures than you think you'll need. Even do some pan through video to get every possible angle. Then do it all again after you take the next thing off because it will reveal even more complexity underneath. The nice part is, if you do it right you can just reverse order the pics when reassembling. Some times I will zoom in on a clip, take a shot, remove it and take another one to show the washers or whatever was underneath it.The sucky part is no matter how many pics you take it's never enough. But when you do have good success putting it back together you can upload all those pics to your database for that model to assist you the next time. You will be amazed how many times that will show you when things are missing from the last rodeo that you would never catch otherwise.
Right "Inside..."! Just re-purpose one of your old cell phones as a WORK CAMERA......and leave it charging close to your workbench. And as you suggest take plenty of pics.
@@powershop1903 My time travel machine hasn't been perfected yet so you have nothing to worry about. And yes, I did have to take stuff apart like that without a camera.
For anyone wondering why they built it like this, it is for ease of assembly at the factory. This the whole dash, and carriers and panels get installed as a single unit, not the several parts.
This goes for every single vehicle. I worked at a Suzuki factory. There is a sub line for the dashboard, the whole dash is literally held in place by 4 bolts. Maybe M10s. Factory workers have an easy access of the dash as they assemble it. Yet 2 guys in the overhead conveyor storage were able to build it in if there was an issue at the line.
Im surprised Wizard doesn't do the reverse of the factory assembly. Its alot easier than the method he's showing, though its still not a cake walk. I think vehcore has a video on it
@@justinstandifer604 Because every vehicle differs. CW had a Jeep, on which he had to cut the firewall so something under the dash could be accessed from the engine bay.
When our shop does that job we don't pull the dash all the way out. You can save some time by only pulling the pass side away far enough to remove the HVAC box. All the dash wiring will stay in the dash. It's still doing the job correctly but with less disassembly.
The key to this is the patience and delicate hand required to even do this, anybody does it at home trying to do it in 30 minutes is gonna have every plastic piece broken in hand
We actually had to replace the evaporator on our ‘05 suburban because it had failed. Instead of taking off the entire dash, we took out the glove box, cut part of the support, and cut into the plastic housing box to get it out. We were able to replace it ourselves in about 2 hours for less than $300. We just used waterproof duct tape to reseal the evaporator housing and it’s still leak free 4 years later. That trick saved us from having to buy a newer suv.
Wow! Great work around. This has me scared of buying an older used truck since they all get A/C leaks eventually. Annual recharge leak stop was keeping my now defunct Avalanche going but I hate the idea of the stuff going into the air.
Why I love your videos so much is because it totally distracts me from all my many current troubles. I get to forget about my problems when I see how bad it could be. Thanks surgeon Wizard and Mrs., good job.
Love your channel and all the content! I own a 2002 GMC flavor of the vehicle in this video. Had to have my evap and heater cores replaced. However, the shop had cut the container/box holding the cores and replaced both. Only the glove box lid was removed and they, also, cut the hinge bracket. Totally eliminated the need to take the whole dash apart. And now there's an easy way to get in if I need to service that area again. I did have to reglue/epoxy the cut section a few months later due to condensation leak. No issues after a few years now. Definitely, saved money and the brittle dash panels. I wouldn't allow this procedure on a newer vehicle, but this is a work truck with over 200000 miles...
Any place you could point to to get a sense of how/where they cut it, and how they replaced it? I'm facing the same job and don't want to tear the entire dash apart.
Good plan. I cut the top open to replace heater core on a 1982 Olds 98 Regency 2 door. The whole assembly was part way on engine side and rest under the dash. Easy, caulked it back together. Worked fine. I wasn’t about to tear the whole unit apart. Drain R-12 etc.
Your obvious enthusiasm,cheerful demeanor,and patient attitude all combine well with your vast experience and knowledge to make some wonderful videos like this. Bravo Sir ! 👍
Before I watch this entire video, YES! Have you seen how much even a 2017 Silverado is going for now? This is definitely worth every cent to keep it running!
@@lashlarue7924in my state new vehicles don't need emissions nor inspections for 10 years or 150k miles. It'll be long gone before I get to that part lol
I had a ‘99 Silverado ext.-cab 4x4, 5.3….had to change the blend-air door actuator at the bottom of the box and the ballast resistor for the fan. The amounts of foul language involved just for those alone would make a sailor blush…..loved that truck, until the brake lines rusted.
Still cheaper to keep em,to a certain point,which is an individual call.I personally have much more respect for someone driving a 20-30 year old vehicle,than an $80K truck.In 5 years he"ll be up to his eyeballs in expensive repairs.
@@matt.604 it's actually not that bad, I have done them before. Just take out the body bolts for the chassis and lift up the chassis about 3". It's not a lot but it's enough to get the job done.
@@markrunyon5524 Great point and true, I still own a 2005 chev. Silverado 4x4 w/ a 5 speed manual trans and manual 4x4 engagement, (non electronic) I service it and maintain it regularly, it's been a great truck and have no plans of selling..
I love that statement “If your not paying-I’m not working”! I completely agree. I have been running my own metal fabrication shop (specializing in race car fabrication) for well over 25 years. One thing I’ve learned and use every day is communication communication communication! I can’t say it enough. If you can explain clearly why you will or will not do something, 99 percent of customers will completely understand. It’s my belief that if a customer has all the information they need to understand a situation they then can make a informed decision and most do. There are times that I will dissuade a customer from doing something that he or she desperately wants to do but after explaining everything they typically will see the light and not do what they had planned. The only time that never works is a simple one and that is sentimental value of what it is they want to do!
Just amazing. I've been through this once in my life. And I was helping someone else. NEVER again. and it took DAYS to finish. AND there was no ac unit, just replacing the leaking heater core.
@@phil4986 many years ago,I bought my girlfriend a beautiful 1986 iroc z28,I replaced the heater core(nightmare!)and the wiz say"s that was a piece of cake.
I had to do this job to my car, since I wasn't about to pay someone else for that many hours of labor. I started 8:00 AM Saturday morning, and aside from eating and sleeping, did nothing else until about 1:00 AM Monday morning. Pulled my other car out of the garage and pretty much filled up the other side with all the pieces. All screws were accounted for, but I did find a foam ring for one of the duct joints on the floor after it was buttoned up. Oh well, that's not going back in.
In the '70's I knew someone who had a '61 Lincoln as a daily driver, and there were a lot of parts that were '61 only. The tires were 9.50x14. Before and after the '61, they had 15' rims, and those big tires, but for a 14" rim were very difficult to find. It got so that retreads were about the only replacement. The 430 cubic inch engine was fed by a 2 barrel carburetor. Other years had 4 barrel carbs. There were other odds and ends that were '61 only. If heater valve rebuilding is not available in the future, you may have to bypass the valve, and use in inline vacuum valve, like one for an '89 Chrysler. It has 5/8" hose barbs for inlet and outlet, and it could be spliced in somewhere to control the water flow. I know about this valve because I had an '89 Chrysler. Also make sure that you have plenty of coolant. That Lincoln holds 25 quarts, yep, 6 gallons plus one quart Getting to the A/C evaporator in the truck was ridiculous! I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado, and I may have nightmares about it. It took me 30 minutes to change the heater core in my '91 Ford Ranger with a 3.0 L V6. The worst one I have ever heard of was 22 book hours to change the heater core in a Mercedes Benz.
As a DIY mechanic, I only had to take apart ONE dash on a modern vehicle ('99 Blazer) to know I never wanted to do it again. its the "going back together" part that about destroyed me... jah-bless all you professionals and the work you do, thank you.
I've learned that actually being a bit violent is the best way to remove interior pieces without breaking them. Dont want to prise pieces off gradually, they bend/deform/break/weaken when you do that. Trick is to jerk the pieces to unclip them, of course, you also have to be sure you know where all the fasteners screws bolts etc are. And I always keep a big box of spare fasteners so I can replace any that break. Every time a shop removes trim or interior there's always a few fasteners missing. I always make a point of going over it and replacing the missing pieces. Got rid of every rattle and squeak in my 2011 tundra just by going through the dash replacing the fasteners and a couple missing screws from the passenger side
On the other hand (if you have the patience for it) this can be an area where a DIY mechanic can have the edge over a shop. Acquire a vehicle for cheap because it needs things that shop labor costs more than the vehicle is worth; as long as it's not your daily driver take as long as you like futzing with it until everything in it works 100%. That's relaxing to me - maybe I'm weird. But the self-breaking plastics are still a problem no matter who you are.
@@dennisferron8847 ^ this all the way. I just recently acquired a low mileage 2002 jaguar XKR, on paper these are expensive cars to own. A lot of spares are expensive, and a lot of labor on even basic engine accessory maintenance because the supercharger has to come off which adds like 2 hours labor to every job. Having 4 or 5 radiators of various types and a mess of hosing jacks up labor too. Differential is a pig to get at so even a diff oil change is 3 hours on the book I think. Now, if you dont need the car every day and can stick it on stands to work on it, most of that can be done cheaply at home. Its not rocket science, its just a bit time consuming. A lot of stuff on "expensive" cars isn't difficult, its just time consuming, and once you find the right resources you can get much cheaper parts, for example on the jag a lot of stuff is just ford f150 lol including the supercharger.
Similar situation with a customer's truck. He spent $400 for an under dash AC unit with universal accumulator/dryer, AC hose, and three cans of R134. Oh, and a hole saw. He brought it by for evac/charge, and oil. Worked great. Hats off to him, smart man.
My door panels have squeaked ever since I replaced the 20 year old factory speakers. Might put some jute carpet padding behind the panels to absorb the rattles.
I have an 05 Silverado that I had to replace the HVAC door actuators. I found high density polyethylene tape (HDPE)tape on Amazon. It's applied where two pieces meet and acts like a bearing. It's very slippery on the side without adhesive. I had to take some of the dash back apart to get rid of the squeaks, but it works. Yes, I am OCD.
When I was in my 20’s I had a 1989 mustang that had a bad heater core. I ended up cutting out a hole in the firewall and pulled it out that way. I bolted a couple pieces of flat metal to add support when I was done. It wasn’t pretty but it worked.
Yeah cutting hole in a Ford is never a big deal it’s going to end up in the scrapyard anyway have you or Ben two an automotive scrap yard 2/3 of the vehicles are Ford and most of them are about 15 years old at the most and if you bring a battery jumper box with you you can see the mileage on them and you’ll be shocked most of them are 150,000 miles that’s the average only a few break 200,000 going to do a video in the future
Now that's the way to go, I do the same type repairs.. If a fuel pump goes bad on my pickup, I cut a hole in the bed to get the old one out, I do not drop the gas tank, too much aggravation, however, I do add a set of hinges to the piece of bed I cut to make it easy for the next time..
The car Wizard actually did an episode of a Jeep Wrangler where the customer asked him to cut a hole in the firewall to make an access panel so that future cores could be easily changed.
I'm just a lube technician, but I have a yearning to learn more heavy handed work. I own this exact truck and it's my pride - I learned how to do all of this myself via the internet, and it took me more than 4 days to replace my heater core - and almost half a year later, again because my evaporator core was also leaking!!! Had I seen this earlier, it wouldn't have gave me such a headache. You're doing a service, sir!
I used to drive a lot of work trucks with that same body style. They were great trucks, But the AC never worked on them because of this same issue. No company is going to pay to have it fixed either with a job like that. We just had to roll our windows down and sweat it out lol.
#@$%&*$ stupid design!!!! Sometimes I wonder if it would be easier to find a way to retrofit something else to a car than to work with what it came with. HVAC and fuel pump access are the issues that astound me most. These are regular wear parts. It should be criminal to design them with no access for maintenance. Why do so few vehicles have access doors for heater/evaporator cores and fuel pumps?
@@trevorpomroy550 It's like on some cars you have to remove the air filter box or battery to replace a headlight. On some Mercedes the whole front of the car has to come apart to replace the horn or windshield washer motor. The rear leaf springs on newer trucks, you have to drop the gas tanks and hitch to get the shackle bolts out. Just what are these engineers thinking?
Your comment about taking pictures brought back memories from when I worked in electronics repair. After taking pictures, we would save them on a server for future reference. If another tech got the same unit in for repair they could pull the pictures from the server and it would save a lot of time. Not sure if you do that in your shop, but it was a good system. We could also add more pictures over time for more detail.
Always had to take pictures for field repair only we'd have to drop off the disposable cameras at a film developer so we could pick up the next day or if really enough end of the day. Lol used to have a box of disposables behind the seat in our work trucks.
Seeing all of those parts is a reminder of what needs to happen with my 2013 F150. The heater and A/C are both non-functional atm. What a mess! Great video as always! 👍
@@bva365 I would normally agree, but I just bought a new car. And having ice cold AC in the summer is worth so much that I can't even put a price on it. It's night and day.
Sometimes I regret selling my 2002 Silverado. At least one of the actuators was broken, constantly sweeping back and forth unless I pulled a fuse to disable it. It was also knocking really bad, even with premium fuel. The transmission was starting to slip too, and all prior to 113,000 miles. Thanks for this video, I hope the next owner of my truck was as happy as I now am!
I remember the old days when a simple cable opened and closed the coolant flow to the core. My nomination for hardest heater core to change is an Eagle Premier. Cost over $800 in 1997.
Even then, if the cooling system was not maintained, the valves would still corrode and become locked in place, and/or leak. My 2000 Grand Prix does not use a coolant valve at all, coolant flows in and out of the heater core all the time, still original in the car. I think what does most of the damage to a heater core is when the coolant is not allowed to flow through full time, the stagnant coolant causes the metals to corrode faster, but most of the time it is just lack of maintenance to the cooling system.
@@quicksilver462 You just reminded me to get the coolant flush done on my 2021 Hyundai Sonata Limited 1.6 T. It only has 10,000 mi. However it has been 12 months and now it needs to be done.
Great video, I had an older Escalade with this same issue. I walked away from it. The price was around 5K to do the work. Wasn't worth it. I have a Toyota Highlander, no issues!
A friend took a small Honda motorcycle transmission apart. He ordered the parts. However, the parts took a few weeks to arrive. He had put the transmission parts in an old cardboard box. . . . so he then took the box of old parts and the new parts to a Honda dealer. The dealer put it all back together again. He said it was worth it. 😊 . . . This happened around 1970. Of course, the GM truck you were working on has many more parts.
Watching this video, it makes me think, when buying a used truck, don’t buy one with a broken air conditioning unit or with a broken heater, because despite what the seller tells you, it will not be a simple repair.
Don’t buy a used 1990-2000 truck like this. Rip out the old dash and put a hot rod custom basic dash. Oil, Temp, Volt, Tach, Speedometer and Fuel gauge.. you don’t need air conditioning or heating as it’s a utility gopher truck.
I was about 15 min into the video. Since I've seen the hvac box I was thinking in my head I would probably replace that heater core as well cause I don't want to go back in for another 20 years. Lol glad he's gonna do it too, it settled down my anxiety
The worst part is when you finally get the air box out and you think you are almost done. But then you have to disassemble the box and you just want to be done and put it back together. I usually quit for the day when I get the air box out and come back to it the next day. If you want to be a more patient person, do an evap change, you will learn patience whether you like it or not.
You're absolutely brilliant and so honest. I really enjoy your videos. I'm always learning from you. This videos demonstrates why I still hold onto my 2-71 Datsun 521 trucks as they are super easy/cheap to maintain.
I’m hanging on to my mom’s 1982 Ford Granada.. Blower fan bearings went out but it’s on the passenger side, behind the glove box.. It’s a Fox Body design. The in-line 6, engine front/rear main seals are shot, possibly the block needs to be recast or replaced or upgraded to a 3.8 liter V6, no electronic, mechanical fuel injection system. There’s no computers..
i had to do a heater core replacement on my own 2002 subaru legacy a few years ago. as it was my only source of transportation and i had a newborn heat was very important, and it was important to get it done as quick as possible. i had that sucker torn down within 2 hours and completed withinin 5. i hope i never have to do something like that again with my ford flex.
on my 85 Mustang I yanked the dash last year to change the heater core and evaporator core. I changed all the gaskets. 4000 miles later the heater core began to leak. I am going to yank it again and replace it with one from a local rebuild shop. You are right car wizard, it is taxing on the mind to yank the dash to do that work.
This is one of those jobs that is guaranteed to make a mechanic swear. About 18 years ago some low life broke the front windscreen washer nozzle on my old 1992 Toyota Town Ace, the part was a couple of pounds but I had to remove the whole dashboard to install the part. It was a 2 man job to remove & refit the whole dash. :)
Love the video another way to make sure all the parts go back the way they came out is to label them with tape 1 2 3 4 and so on then when you get back together you take the screws to the correct appropriate part and you know exactly where they all went
Regarding the Lincoln: The likelihood of this car being used in cold/winter weather is nil. I'd just bypass the heater for now. While it's nice to have everything working per factory, sometime you can't. If there is another heater core the same size without this valve, install it with a vacuum operated valve mounted somewhere else. Many cars of the 70's to 80's used vacuum valves to control flow to the heater and they were mounted on the engine. I wonder how the factory put this together. When I worked at Mitsubishi in Normal, IL, the IP was subassembled offline and installed in one piece with almost all the stuff on it except for some side panels and underneath panels. All the small stuff was on it. The HVAC box was one of the first things (after the main body wiring harness) that went on the bare body that came out of the paint shop.
Same thing I was thinking.If you could find the same size heater cores.Eliminate those valves.Thermostat opens,coolant flows>heat on.No,it"s not that easy,pardon me.But,their has to be a answer.
@@markrunyon5524 On some cars, you don't want hot water flowing through the core because there is no way to bypass the air. The air stream goes through both the heater and the A/C.
I recently did one on a 2000 Ford Excursion. Not bad at all. Worse part was the old quick disconnect fittings on the heater hoses. Very hard to get to, and anything but quick connect after 20+ years. I was surprised to hear the 2000’s f150 was so bad. Nice job Wizard.
15:15 very wise words of advice in the auto repair industry. This repair job is a metaphorical analogy of "strike while the iron is hot!" Anytime, such major repair that involves removing assemblies in order to replace something like a heater core or what have you and there is a related part that is within that vicinity that will fail at any time, despite it being in intact condition, it is advisable to replace it at the same time. It may put a little ding in the repair bill, but will definitely save huge on a repeat labor cost. Case in point, when I was replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my 2004 Chevrolet Impala, the oxygen sensor was very accessible, so I replaced it right then and there despite it still being original and in good, working order. Now to answer if its really worth it question, yes, if you have the time, the space, the money and the experience, go for it!
Probably a similar setup to my 02 avalanche, you're feeling adventurous you can cut the bottom and side off of the HVAC box and get to both the heater core and the EVAP core. As a diy, this is a more home approach, you just have to glue the pan els in place when you are done. There are several GM models where this is the recommended way to get the heater core and evap core out. In the 07 and up generation, the HVAC box can be removed from the Dash without taking the dash out.
Just when I was considering this body style. I'll just get myself another early 90's Chevy or GMC C1500. I replaced the heater core myself in less than 30 mins
I bought a 2004 GTO 6 speed as a daily years ago and it's been such a fantastic vehicle. I've had many Yukon's and Tahoe's in the past. All great vehicle's. Lasted to 300k miles with proper maintenance. Idk if the wizard likes Lucas Oil Stabilizer. But as my engines got higher mileage I used it and worked very well with my oil pressures.
omg i have a 94 chevy 1/2 ton 4wd, it fills all my needs. it runs and drives great. i will cherish it and keep it forever. so far its been pretty easy to work on.
On the Lincoln there are entirely new heat core's similar sized, I know this since a friend is making a V8 powered mg gt he was able to get a universal very close to what you're holding. I would suggest this question is this going to be a show car? If so direct them to a restoration shop. Overwise slap a universal in. I know you like all original I also. But if it is made of " unobtanium" a boat owners expression, but valuable for old car maintainers or any functional repairer. I always go the most reliable universal heater core would work with a vac valve. Your not a restoration shop, I know you're "" getting out of old car's but they will never be out of you.
I have substituted heater valves before on some of my vehicles. The later 60s GM vacuum valves have worked on some of my antique vehicles. As long as the line size matches they work.
My old car had heater core clugged so it was cold inside the car in winter. In the summer we swapped heater core and dashboard for used one cracks free on parking lot in front of my appartment block. It took us all day long, from morning to evening. Also heater lines got disconnected a day before in a shop and connected again after the repair was done, because of lack of space to do it from the hood.
When my evaporator core goes out on my 2005 Tahoe I'm cutting it out of the housing, replacing it and gluing/duck-taping and caulking the housing back together myself.
Thanks for the video, you are amazing, I am convinced you could do anything, thank you for being here on UA-cam helping us out in the auto repair world!
Reminds me of the F-4 Phantom. A complex hydraulic system with 24 hydraulic filters. Of 14 different types and different fittings. The coax cable to the tail antenna? Had a connector near the base of the tail that often failed. Required the removal of both engines. About 4 man-days of work and lots of risk of breaking two $2 million J59 jet engines. Slightly worse than on this truck.
Ya I'm done being a maintainer lol and I used to bitch about the AC130W being a Frankenstein of a plane before it retired this summer. Then the last one to fly to fly to Davis Montham blew the 2 left tires out landing on their runway... good times
@@gravestone9831 I was at DM when a last fly B-52 came in. Chute failed to unfurl and it did rooster tails of burning rubber till the tires blew at the far end. I worked on drone catching H-3's. 1979.
Hey, look on the bright side. At least they didn't have radar-absorbent paint. I'm not getting a read on how you really feel about those particular airplanes, but if you miss them occasionally check out the link below. This guy had regular access to the last operational F-4's in Japan and is obviously a fan. He also has a criminally small number of subs and views considering the quality of his content. ua-cam.com/video/UZJ6_FKVVyI/v-deo.html
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 well thank you for your service I'll always be partial to gunships but those B52s are something else. I didn't think I'd find many air force people on UA-cam 🤙
Ironic how the 4th gen Camaro/ Firebird , ANOTHER GM car of the era. You can get the Evap/ heater core out WAY easier without the need to take the dash apart. Just take the glove box off and the heater core cover off, unbolt the lines under the hood and you can wiggle the core out !
I replaced the heater and evap cores on a 1999 mountaineer over a weekend. I had to start with the seats, then the center console before I even started on the dash. My yard was full of pieces of interior from that vehicle. 8-10 hours each day of the weekend. the best part of the story is the vehicle was stolen a week later and demoloshed in a police chase. So the moral is to put it off another week first.
As much of a pain as it can be, I say it's still worth it if it keeps these older trucks on the road. 2k-4k bill vs buying new truck for 60k+ (which will likely have its own mechanical gremlins to worry about) or even another old one for the same price as the repair bill (then it's no telling when that bill comes back), it seems like almost an obvious choice to me.
That would really depend on the condition of the rest of the truck. From the looks of this one, I don't see HOW it would be worth it. I suppose it might be low mileage?... but then if it did I'd think it wouldn't even need the evaporator if that was the case. For 4k?... roll the windows down, bite the bullet until the weather cools back down.
@@SaxaphoneMan42 most people would not sink 4K into this truck just to have AC. Six months later the tranny goes out?... perhaps the engine?... not counting other upkeep. You put 4K in this and it won't end, the owner will be forced to keep going. Nope not worth it when that 110 only last a couple months a year at best... and that's being modest. If the owner can't do the work to save money, then the owner ends up with a cash pit.
@@garyr7027 lets say the engine and tranny blows out completely, FUBAR. a 4l60E and ls motor will be what, 3k-4k in parts, and another few thousand in labor? so lets say both of those happen near the time of this AC, you've now spent 10-12k for a truck that's gonna run like new vs 60k+ for a new one. I don't see the "cash pit" argument making any sense when a new vehicle is going to be far more expensive, and any used vehicle isn't going to be much cheaper and you won't know how close those issues are to coming back.
Ok, so now AFTER watching this entire video, Holy crumb cake Bat Man! I had no idea how many parts you had to remove to get to the heater core. Great video though, that was amazing! Now I can show my friends when they question my decision of buying a newer car and getting the extended warranty.
They've only gotten worse, too. On the new Chevy Equinoxes and Buick Envisions, you have to remove the front doors for access to the bolts holding the dash frame in.
I’m a shade tree mechanic and I’ve replaced heater core on 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2005 and 2006 Ford Crown Victoria. While I was in there I replaced blend doors on all three. It took me whole weekend on each car
Driver "Just found out my car is totaled!" Friend "What happened, accident, is anyone injured? You OK?" Driver "Just got an estimate to get my AC fixed"
I own a 94 K3500 GMT-400 the generation before this one. I dont understand how they could make it easier for you to get to your heater/evap core on older trucks than newer ones, the newer it is should be the easier to access. Just goes to show the companies dont care about the consumer.
@@justinstandifer604 It's a 5.7 Vortec Z71 GMC Sierra in white. I swapped in forged control arms while I gather parts for a SAS. No 3rd door on it also. Everything about these trucks is easy to work on. Except the spider injectors.
It reminds me of years ago when I decided to replace all the brake lines on my Goldwing !! The bike was in bits. Excellent video, thanks a lot. Colin UK 🇬🇧
My first car was a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, I had it for 7 years (still ran great with 180k miles but the body was rotted out). I used to rip my dash apart regularly to swap out radios, replace burnt out light bulbs behind the gauge cluster, I even soldered in tiny new bulbs inside the HVAC unit because I was so obsessed with having all the backlights working. Obviously I didn't take the *entire* dash apart like this, but I know what you mean with the creaking plastics and how fragile everything is. You really have to hold your breath while doing this stuff. Lucky for me the heat and a/c always worked marvelously in that thing haha
I love how the wizard is non negotiable about doing those preventative jobs when he has to do a complicated removal of another part. No games. No options. Timing belt, water pump, evaporator core, heater core etc. The customer either does it right or takes it somewhere else.
Wizard are there ways to bypass taking at least some of this stuff apart via strategically place holes and homemade hatches? If you happen to get your hands on some scrap vehicles with issues like this I think it would make a great longer term video series to show things like that for people with older vehicles that dont mind making some modifications for easier maintenance.
@Kellen *GREAT SUGGESTION....THERE ARE PLENTY OF REASONABLE SHORTCUTS TO BE MADE ON THESE OLDER VEHICLES THAT WILL CUT REPAIR COSTS AND NOT COMPROMISE THE FUNCTIONALITY OF THE VEHICLE AT ALL*
I have a 1999 Chevy 2500 6.0 heater core was replaced an 4 or 5 years ago. $1,100. to pay a shop to do it . The first shop I went to he didn’t want to do it and I use him quite often. The 2nd shop did it because he knew me and we went to school together and I use him also , he told me if someone walked in off the street he didn’t know he wouldn’t do it. He did a good job. And I was happy and still driving the truck with 214,000 miles on it.. If I remember correctly it took them about 11 hrs to put the heater core in and put it all back together.
I did a '95 Cheyenne 3500 interior teardown to replace from a fire. It took me 2 days to get it out. Took 4 hours to get the salvage one out - no broken parts. So I appreciate the difficulty. But for contrast, Scott over at Vehor does this as a matter of course and is a walk in the park for him. Everything is relative.
Wizard,I’ve been watching your videos for a long time. Really appreciate them. Would you say that the 1999-2006 Gm pickups are the last of the solid Gm trucks? I tend to think so.
If GM didn’t make everything so cheap, the evaporator core wouldn’t have failed. Just ask a Toyota Tacoma or tundra owner. “Pay me now or pay me later” I believe is the phrase. Every gm I had had a failed evaporator core right after the warranty expired.
@@scottcreesy6084 true, but they recalled and fixed most of them and they learned from that mistake and the newer ones don’t have the issue. GM never learns.
@@mongo64071 while I partially agree with you ( Toyota has been outsourcing lots of components to lowest bidders the past 20 years to keep costs down, they aren't what they used to be) I also have 230,000 on my 01 Silverado 5.3. Like most anything, it's all about maintenance
I remember 25 years ago I had a beautiful 1966 Pontiac Bonneville with factory AC and there was a vacuum hiss coming from the dashboard somewhere.. I got in the shop manual and it was a fresh air vacuum actuator that switched from outside air to inside air and the 1st step was to remove the dash pad,,,,,,,,,,, and the bottom line was you had to remove the entire dash to access it.. The part wasn't available anyway so I never did it... You had to leave the fresh air button pushed in at all times or it was hissing...
What a battle!!! Really appreciate you walking us through what all it takes to do this job. It's shocking how poorly engineered this design is on a 1999 model year truck. I imagine things have only gotten exponentially worse in modern vehicles; especially given the poor quality of materials used nowadays. I'd be interested to hear any insights you have on whether there are any makes/models that have relatively well designed HVAC systems
Poorly engineered? This truck is 25 years old! These HVAC systems are not "high-fail" parts. Now, step back and think about the HIGH FAIL parts in the F150's from 97 through (at least) 2014. EXPENSIVE parts! ENGINES! Many of these jobs the mechanics completely removed the cab. And these trucks were NOT 25 years old when the problems (FAILURES due to POOR ENGINEERING) started showing up. Maybe they would get 2 years out of the Triton engines before MAJOR problems - some of them lasted until the warranty expired, but many of them had to have MAJOR ENGINE WORK done several times before the trucks were 10 years old.
20:55 I commented on the first video of this truck (I know the videos are a little old now) but you are very much correct about the newer trucks being easier in terms of dash/interior tear downs for repairs of this nature. I was replacing a faulty steering column lock module on a 2022 or 2021 GMC Sierra if I can remember correctly. It is bolted to the stop of the steering column itself and is towards the very back. There isn't much work around for this job and it did involve a lot of interior panel removal in that you wouldn't think is necessary upon first glance. Though there's a good bit of interior dash tear down involved, its not near as bad as these older trucks. I will say though, it's nice when everything is new, not brittle, hasn't been taken apart a million times and is designed in a manner with which serviceability seems to be considered by the engineers just a little more than it used to be. That's only in certain aspects/areas of them newer vehicles today however. With all that said, I'm glad my 05 Sierra's heater core never went out in the 240k miles it lived before a tree that grew legs took my trucks life lol :/
Just watch a video on how you we no sure about doing the videos and how it may hurt your shop. Well all I can say is thank you for sticking with it we learn a lot from your content. Once again thank you
I replaced a heater core on my wife’s 1996 Ford escort in 2002 and it took me a total of six hours which included a trip to the junkyard to replace a brake shift interlock that was damaged prior. The whole dash came out as one unit save the radio and gauge cluster. It was a very easy job. Nothing about today’s cars are easy.
As a home mechanic, I could never do this job. It's not just the huge amount of tedious disassembly work and needing an acre of space to store all the removed pieces. I wouldn't be able to resist the "while we're at it" job creep. I'd be looking at the foam seals that are crumbling, and the heater & a/c hoses that I've already disconnected, and various fasteners that got lost/damaged, and undoubtedly some other things that would appear. And then I'd want to clean all of it before putting it back together. The job would never end!
Had to do the same with a 1995 Land Rover Discovery years ago. Hiding the heater matrix and various airon parts must've been a real design thing back then. Good video. thanks Wizard.
I love the truck the parts last so long usually without breaking down like modern cars. Water pump and thermostat last almost 20 years. Alternator and starter over 12 years. Ac systems lasted about 15 years before it needed some repair. Cv axles I'm bearly going to replace them same with the control arms but they lasted so long I'm amazed. Also one can add a extra battery if you plan to add accessories.
Replaced the evap core on my 2007 F150 FX4 has a floor shift in the center consul. Pulled the front seats the consul the steering column rolled the carpet back to access the duct work for the back seat then dropped the dash and pulled the heater box. Split it replaced the evap core heater core and the blend door motor reassembled it back with new heater hoses these are the o ring type. Took me 2 and a half days in my garage at home 54 years old at the time felt it for a week. The diag a low charge and could smell ac oil out the vents the evap core showed no oily deposits was questioning my diag. 2 years later still cold as ice. I am a 30 year licensed class 8 truck and coach and automotive tech class 8 my bread and butter. Man same job done with my boss a Ford Edge my truck was worse.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
$600 sounds about right for the part, similar on my '61 T-bird when I replaced it, finding it was a nightmare. This hobby is getting expensive!
If this guy is the only one on the planet rebuilding these things, shouldn't someone learn from him and create a business? It's supposed to be capitalism man.
@@dingdong2103
But is this rebuilder retired and working out of his garage?
How do you find him and does he want to teach someone?
I found a rebuilder of 1990's Toyota Corolla double-diaphrahm distributors local to me....
but the next time I needed one rebuilt he had sold the "rights" to his process and the custom made hardware to do the job...to a business 800 miles away...
There was a restriction of trade clause as well so he could never do another distributor....
@@dingdong2103 i think there are guys in india that would rebuild anything
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq why would he do that. That's just mean in my opinion unless he was old enough to retire which I can understand if that's the case.
@@dingdong2103 the problem is there likely not a huge demand. especially if that design was only used on a couple of years.
I'm a DIY guy. Novice mechanic. (Professional engineer.) I did this job on my 2000 Silverado a few years ago. It took me 16 hours! It all went perfectly, nothing broken, no left over mystery fasteners. Replaced all the door actuators. Etc. It was a crazy job. Thank you for making this video! Your deadpan delivery is perfect. I feel redeemed.
16 hours really isn’t that bad! Good for you!
@@bannedbycommieyoutube5time920 for real this would've taken me days easily
Are you in California?
Lol pos chevy bet its leaking everywhere too. My 01 tundra is perfect
@@tylergronk-wd9dx Not a drop. Because of me. I'm that awesome. If your Tundra was a human, it would be me.
There is a special place in hell for the bean counters and engineers who don't consider serviceability.
I love that you're so good at explaining to the general public exactly why labor bills can get so high and when it's just not worth repairing. I bet there are customer/repairman relationships benefiting from these videos all across the country
When I try to explain, and I get that blank stare, and they ask how does it take so long, then I show them something like this. Yes it does suck that bad. No I'm not ripping you off( as a matter of fact im cheaper than most) it's just that bad. Dodge just as bad, Ford just as bad, it's BS
I did my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee and that was AWFUL. My 1983 Chevy was easy peasy. And a 1986 Ford F-250 was the easiest of all, the heater core is on the engine side of the firewall. EASY. But I'd rather pull an engine than do a heater core on a more modern vehicle.
He is peak mastery. People throw around terms like master or journeyman. He is who that word is for, probably less than 5% of the people claiming it. Maybe less than 2%.
@@Bloodbain88 I did a complete HVAC refurb on my 1993 Grand Cherokee, and that only took a weekend. I found a how-to online that showed that you didn't have to remove the entire dash, you could remove 12 screws/bolts and pivot the dash away from the firewall just enough to get access to the HVAC box and get it out. It actually took less than an hour to go from a fully-installed dash to having the dash positioned so that I could get the HVAC box out. Didn't need to disconnect anything from the instrument panel, there were just some plugs in the passenger footwell that had to be unplugged. Sadly, the same trick doesn't work on the WJ Grand Cherokees, you do have to remove the dash completely.
You never want the customer to see their car when you’re in the middle of one of these!
I’ve been through similar things with my 08 Aveo. The A/C compressor stopped working on a super hot day out with the family. So I bought the parts and tore into it. My wife came out into the garage and saw the whole front end taken apart and said “ You better know how to fix it” lol. I had to tear the whole dash apart for 1 small part, but when it was done she felt the ice cold A/C and said “Thank You Honey “ That’s worth more than money 👍👍
I remember years ago in the shop; we were replacing yet another evaporator core in a mid 90's Dodge Intrepid. The customer came in later that day because he needed something out of the car for work in the morning. We had removed the dash, but time ran out, and the tech had left for the day without completing the job. The dash was totally disassembled, just like Wizard's truck. I was closing up the shop for the day, so I volunteered to go back to retrieve the item the customer needed for work in the morning. The customer insisted on going to the car to get his item. I escorted him to the car in the now darkened garage, being careful that they didn't trip over anything. When I opened the door for him, I will never forget the look on his face seeing that disassembled dash, with parts laying everywhere and wires like spaghetti. His face turned pale, and I thought he would pass out. Yes, like walking in on a loved one during open heart surgery! After he got his car back, every time he heard a rattle or a squeak, he would return to the shop and claim that our workmanship had to be the source of the noise because he had seen for himself how we had that dash and there is no way that the noise was not from us tearing apart the dash to change the evaporator core. I vowed never again to allow a customer to see their car in that state if I could possibly avoid it. I should have told him the truth that insurance regulations don't allow them to be in the shop. Lesson learned.
That is a toss up. Some customers would realize you earned your money. Others would make you regret it.
Mechanic I used in the past owned his own shop and didn't care if I watched him work on my vehicle or someone else's while we talked...always respected that.
All it takes is one customer to ruin it for everyone.
Ban him
I ran into a major problem which "I" had to solve because of a mechanics that just threw the dash back together. Screws missing everywhere. A computer not put back in its carrier properly and was shorting out every time I made left hand turns.
I use my phone camera every day when disassembling things. The trick is to take three times more pictures than you think you'll need. Even do some pan through video to get every possible angle. Then do it all again after you take the next thing off because it will reveal even more complexity underneath. The nice part is, if you do it right you can just reverse order the pics when reassembling. Some times I will zoom in on a clip, take a shot, remove it and take another one to show the washers or whatever was underneath it.The sucky part is no matter how many pics you take it's never enough. But when you do have good success putting it back together you can upload all those pics to your database for that model to assist you the next time. You will be amazed how many times that will show you when things are missing from the last rodeo that you would never catch otherwise.
Right "Inside..."! Just re-purpose one of your old cell phones as a WORK CAMERA......and leave it charging close to your workbench. And as you suggest take plenty of pics.
@@powershop1903 My time travel machine hasn't been perfected yet so you have nothing to worry about. And yes, I did have to take stuff apart like that without a camera.
I just go through the manual. Count the bolts and stages, and prefab baggies and cardboard squares with the size and part wrote in sharpie
@@Seasniffer1969 If I'm doing a DIY automotive teardown I will use a box of ziplock bags with post-it notes describing the content and it's location.
For anyone wondering why they built it like this, it is for ease of assembly at the factory. This the whole dash, and carriers and panels get installed as a single unit, not the several parts.
This goes for every single vehicle. I worked at a Suzuki factory. There is a sub line for the dashboard, the whole dash is literally held in place by 4 bolts. Maybe M10s. Factory workers have an easy access of the dash as they assemble it. Yet 2 guys in the overhead conveyor storage were able to build it in if there was an issue at the line.
Im surprised Wizard doesn't do the reverse of the factory assembly. Its alot easier than the method he's showing, though its still not a cake walk. I think vehcore has a video on it
Why can’t you take the dash out as a unit then? Like just unbolt the dash & lean it on the seat. That’s what I did in a old 91 Sonoma.
@@justinstandifer604 Because every vehicle differs. CW had a Jeep, on which he had to cut the firewall so something under the dash could be accessed from the engine bay.
I was gonna comment this. He does touch on this near the end, about pulling the dash as a unit. That’s how they do it for the 01 era a4’s
When our shop does that job we don't pull the dash all the way out. You can save some time by only pulling the pass side away far enough to remove the HVAC box. All the dash wiring will stay in the dash. It's still doing the job correctly but with less disassembly.
The key to this is the patience and delicate hand required to even do this, anybody does it at home trying to do it in 30 minutes is gonna have every plastic piece broken in hand
...only if you are a gorilla. Just lube parts in advance, pry carefully--the wiz is a drama queen.
It also helps to be doing the repair in the summer. It’s riskier in cold weather!
I would rather have a root canal.
Old plastic in these vehicles break. No matter where you live.
They could break every piece and still not get it done that fast. In fact, it would cost them even more time repairing all the screw ups.
We actually had to replace the evaporator on our ‘05 suburban because it had failed. Instead of taking off the entire dash, we took out the glove box, cut part of the support, and cut into the plastic housing box to get it out. We were able to replace it ourselves in about 2 hours for less than $300. We just used waterproof duct tape to reseal the evaporator housing and it’s still leak free 4 years later. That trick saved us from having to buy a newer suv.
The BEST solution! Should become standard practice.
Wow! Great work around. This has me scared of buying an older used truck since they all get A/C leaks eventually. Annual recharge leak stop was keeping my now defunct Avalanche going but I hate the idea of the stuff going into the air.
I can understand why people hate doing jobs like this but I really enjoy this kind of stuff. Great video!
I love the loving and respectful relationship between Mr. & Mrs. Wizard! You are definitely good people!
Good for each other.
Why I love your videos so much is because it totally distracts me from all my many current troubles. I get to forget about my problems when I see how bad it could be. Thanks surgeon Wizard and Mrs., good job.
Love your channel and all the content! I own a 2002 GMC flavor of the vehicle in this video. Had to have my evap and heater cores replaced. However, the shop had cut the container/box holding the cores and replaced both. Only the glove box lid was removed and they, also, cut the hinge bracket. Totally eliminated the need to take the whole dash apart. And now there's an easy way to get in if I need to service that area again. I did have to reglue/epoxy the cut section a few months later due to condensation leak. No issues after a few years now. Definitely, saved money and the brittle dash panels. I wouldn't allow this procedure on a newer vehicle, but this is a work truck with over 200000 miles...
Any place you could point to to get a sense of how/where they cut it, and how they replaced it? I'm facing the same job and don't want to tear the entire dash apart.
@@jum5238 There's a few videos on UA-cam
Good plan. I cut the top open to replace heater core on a 1982 Olds 98 Regency 2 door. The whole assembly was part way on engine side and rest under the dash. Easy, caulked it back together. Worked fine. I wasn’t about to tear the whole unit apart. Drain R-12 etc.
I did the same on a 1982 Regency 98 Olds. Cut the top and replaced the heater core. Chaulked
sounds like you took the truck to your local butcher shop...
Your obvious enthusiasm,cheerful demeanor,and patient attitude all combine well with your vast experience and knowledge to make some wonderful videos like this. Bravo Sir ! 👍
Before I watch this entire video, YES! Have you seen how much even a 2017 Silverado is going for now? This is definitely worth every cent to keep it running!
Yeh, especially with all the garbage emissions crap they stick on the new ones.
@@lashlarue7924in my state new vehicles don't need emissions nor inspections for 10 years or 150k miles. It'll be long gone before I get to that part lol
@@Seasniffer1969 You miss my point. The additional emissions crap is still costing you money 💰, even when you don't need it inspected.
those 2017s also plug up the heads from the direct injection and wipe cams out, cool lookin, ill never buy 1.
I had a ‘99 Silverado ext.-cab 4x4, 5.3….had to change the blend-air door actuator at the bottom of the box and the ballast resistor for the fan. The amounts of foul language involved just for those alone would make a sailor blush…..loved that truck, until the brake lines rusted.
Still cheaper to keep em,to a certain point,which is an individual call.I personally have much more respect for someone driving a 20-30 year old vehicle,than an $80K truck.In 5 years he"ll be up to his eyeballs in expensive repairs.
Great trucks.
My 03 Silverado brake lines leaked from rusting. That's the next job I have to tackle this summer.
@@matt.604 it's actually not that bad, I have done them before. Just take out the body bolts for the chassis and lift up the chassis about 3". It's not a lot but it's enough to get the job done.
@@markrunyon5524 Great point and true, I still own a 2005 chev. Silverado 4x4 w/ a 5 speed manual trans and manual 4x4 engagement, (non electronic) I service it and maintain it regularly, it's been a great truck and have no plans of selling..
@@tt7hvn Thanks for the tip. I'm hoping the ABS module didnt get ruined with rusty debris going through it.
I love that statement “If your not paying-I’m not working”! I completely agree. I have been running my own metal fabrication shop (specializing in race car fabrication) for well over 25 years. One thing I’ve learned and use every day is communication communication communication! I can’t say it enough. If you can explain clearly why you will or will not do something, 99 percent of customers will completely understand. It’s my belief that if a customer has all the information they need to understand a situation they then can make a informed decision and most do. There are times that I will dissuade a customer from doing something that he or she desperately wants to do but after explaining everything they typically will see the light and not do what they had planned. The only time that never works is a simple one and that is sentimental value of what it is they want to do!
Dang wizard, a couple more hours and you could have the whole truck disassembled and laid out all over the shop floor!
Secretly the wizzard does frame of restorations, only he does not tell us on youtube.Lol
Just amazing. I've been through this once in my life. And I was helping someone else. NEVER again. and it took DAYS to finish. AND there was no ac unit, just replacing the leaking heater core.
@@phil4986 many years ago,I bought my girlfriend a beautiful 1986 iroc z28,I replaced the heater core(nightmare!)and the wiz say"s that was a piece of cake.
@@ivosterken9400 he does them in the backroom in a closet.
sounds like it would have been more cost effective to use a sawzall to extract the core.
I had to do this job to my car, since I wasn't about to pay someone else for that many hours of labor. I started 8:00 AM Saturday morning, and aside from eating and sleeping, did nothing else until about 1:00 AM Monday morning. Pulled my other car out of the garage and pretty much filled up the other side with all the pieces. All screws were accounted for, but I did find a foam ring for one of the duct joints on the floor after it was buttoned up. Oh well, that's not going back in.
Wow, your video shows me if you have a mechanic that great like you, what you change you really earned every penny, thank you for sharing this.
I’m so glad to have found this channel. Your calm demeanor and rational thinking brings me peace.
Your channel is doing fantastic, very proud of your hard work and editing with Mrs wizard, 1 million subs will happen fast, thank u from nyc
In the '70's I knew someone who had a '61 Lincoln as a daily driver, and there were a lot of parts that were '61 only. The tires were 9.50x14. Before and after the '61, they had 15' rims, and those big tires, but for a 14" rim were very difficult to find. It got so that retreads were about the only replacement. The 430 cubic inch engine was fed by a 2 barrel carburetor. Other years had 4 barrel carbs. There were other odds and ends that were '61 only. If heater valve rebuilding is not available in the future, you may have to bypass the valve, and use in inline vacuum valve, like one for an '89 Chrysler. It has 5/8" hose barbs for inlet and outlet, and it could be spliced in somewhere to control the water flow. I know about this valve because I had an '89 Chrysler. Also make sure that you have plenty of coolant. That Lincoln holds 25 quarts, yep, 6 gallons plus one quart Getting to the A/C evaporator in the truck was ridiculous! I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado, and I may have nightmares about it. It took me 30 minutes to change the heater core in my '91 Ford Ranger with a 3.0 L V6. The worst one I have ever heard of was 22 book hours to change the heater core in a Mercedes Benz.
As a DIY mechanic, I only had to take apart ONE dash on a modern vehicle ('99 Blazer) to know I never wanted to do it again. its the "going back together" part that about destroyed me... jah-bless all you professionals and the work you do, thank you.
I've learned that actually being a bit violent is the best way to remove interior pieces without breaking them. Dont want to prise pieces off gradually, they bend/deform/break/weaken when you do that. Trick is to jerk the pieces to unclip them, of course, you also have to be sure you know where all the fasteners screws bolts etc are. And I always keep a big box of spare fasteners so I can replace any that break.
Every time a shop removes trim or interior there's always a few fasteners missing. I always make a point of going over it and replacing the missing pieces. Got rid of every rattle and squeak in my 2011 tundra just by going through the dash replacing the fasteners and a couple missing screws from the passenger side
On the other hand (if you have the patience for it) this can be an area where a DIY mechanic can have the edge over a shop. Acquire a vehicle for cheap because it needs things that shop labor costs more than the vehicle is worth; as long as it's not your daily driver take as long as you like futzing with it until everything in it works 100%. That's relaxing to me - maybe I'm weird. But the self-breaking plastics are still a problem no matter who you are.
@@dennisferron8847 I agree with you.
@@dennisferron8847 ^ this all the way. I just recently acquired a low mileage 2002 jaguar XKR, on paper these are expensive cars to own. A lot of spares are expensive, and a lot of labor on even basic engine accessory maintenance because the supercharger has to come off which adds like 2 hours labor to every job. Having 4 or 5 radiators of various types and a mess of hosing jacks up labor too. Differential is a pig to get at so even a diff oil change is 3 hours on the book I think.
Now, if you dont need the car every day and can stick it on stands to work on it, most of that can be done cheaply at home. Its not rocket science, its just a bit time consuming. A lot of stuff on "expensive" cars isn't difficult, its just time consuming, and once you find the right resources you can get much cheaper parts, for example on the jag a lot of stuff is just ford f150 lol including the supercharger.
Similar situation with a customer's truck. He spent $400 for an under dash AC unit with universal accumulator/dryer, AC hose, and three cans of R134. Oh, and a hole saw. He brought it by for evac/charge, and oil. Worked great. Hats off to him, smart man.
The challenge putting it back together is chasing down all the squeaks that result from taking it apart.
Man is that the truth!
With my ocd I dont think i could handle the squeeks and rattles. i would sell it
My door panels have squeaked ever since I replaced the 20 year old factory speakers. Might put some jute carpet padding behind the panels to absorb the rattles.
I have an 05 Silverado that I had to replace the HVAC door actuators. I found high density polyethylene tape (HDPE)tape on Amazon. It's applied where two pieces meet and acts like a bearing. It's very slippery on the side without adhesive. I had to take some of the dash back apart to get rid of the squeaks, but it works. Yes, I am OCD.
If you have OCD don’t buy a Chevy. Everyone I owned had rattles and squeaks. Good vehicles just facts.
I am impressed Wizard. That’s quite the job.
When I was in my 20’s I had a 1989 mustang that had a bad heater core. I ended up cutting out a hole in the firewall and pulled it out that way. I bolted a couple pieces of flat metal to add support when I was done. It wasn’t pretty but it worked.
Thats how it"s done.As long as the customer is "on board".
Yeah cutting hole in a Ford is never a big deal it’s going to end up in the scrapyard anyway have you or Ben two an automotive scrap yard 2/3 of the vehicles are Ford and most of them are about 15 years old at the most and if you bring a battery jumper box with you you can see the mileage on them and you’ll be shocked most of them are 150,000 miles that’s the average only a few break 200,000 going to do a video in the future
@@AmericanSurvival001 My 1999 F150 is at 312k...same engine but 3rd transmission
Now that's the way to go, I do the same type repairs.. If a fuel pump goes bad on my pickup, I cut a hole in the bed to get the old one out, I do not drop the gas tank, too much aggravation, however, I do add a set of hinges to the piece of bed I cut to make it easy for the next time..
The car Wizard actually did an episode of a Jeep Wrangler where the customer asked him to cut a hole in the firewall to make an access panel so that future cores could be easily changed.
I'm just a lube technician, but I have a yearning to learn more heavy handed work. I own this exact truck and it's my pride - I learned how to do all of this myself via the internet, and it took me more than 4 days to replace my heater core - and almost half a year later, again because my evaporator core was also leaking!!! Had I seen this earlier, it wouldn't have gave me such a headache. You're doing a service, sir!
I used to drive a lot of work trucks with that same body style. They were great trucks, But the AC never worked on them because of this same issue. No company is going to pay to have it fixed either with a job like that. We just had to roll our windows down and sweat it out lol.
My 89 Tracker never came with AC 😆
#@$%&*$ stupid design!!!! Sometimes I wonder if it would be easier to find a way to retrofit something else to a car than to work with what it came with. HVAC and fuel pump access are the issues that astound me most. These are regular wear parts. It should be criminal to design them with no access for maintenance. Why do so few vehicles have access doors for heater/evaporator cores and fuel pumps?
@@trevorpomroy550 It's like on some cars you have to remove the air filter box or battery to replace a headlight. On some Mercedes the whole front of the car has to come apart to replace the horn or windshield washer motor. The rear leaf springs on newer trucks, you have to drop the gas tanks and hitch to get the shackle bolts out. Just what are these engineers thinking?
@@Bloodbain88 Agreed!!
@@Bloodbain88 They are thinking of how the factory can assemble a vehicle as fast and as cheaply as possible
Your comment about taking pictures brought back memories from when I worked in electronics repair. After taking pictures, we would save them on a server for future reference. If another tech got the same unit in for repair they could pull the pictures from the server and it would save a lot of time. Not sure if you do that in your shop, but it was a good system. We could also add more pictures over time for more detail.
Always had to take pictures for field repair only we'd have to drop off the disposable cameras at a film developer so we could pick up the next day or if really enough end of the day. Lol used to have a box of disposables behind the seat in our work trucks.
Seeing all of those parts is a reminder of what needs to happen with my 2013 F150. The heater and A/C are both non-functional atm. What a mess! Great video as always! 👍
Bummer, man!
Probably the cat's 🤣
Here in Southern CA, we often just bypass the heater assembly , if leaking coolant. I never use the heater...only the A/C is critical to us.
@@bva365 I would normally agree, but I just bought a new car. And having ice cold AC in the summer is worth so much that I can't even put a price on it. It's night and day.
Fix or repair daily
Sometimes I regret selling my 2002 Silverado. At least one of the actuators was broken, constantly sweeping back and forth unless I pulled a fuse to disable it. It was also knocking really bad, even with premium fuel. The transmission was starting to slip too, and all prior to 113,000 miles. Thanks for this video, I hope the next owner of my truck was as happy as I now am!
I remember the old days when a simple cable opened and closed the coolant flow to the core. My nomination for hardest heater core to change is an Eagle Premier. Cost over $800 in 1997.
Even then, if the cooling system was not maintained, the valves would still corrode and become locked in place, and/or leak. My 2000 Grand Prix does not use a coolant valve at all, coolant flows in and out of the heater core all the time, still original in the car. I think what does most of the damage to a heater core is when the coolant is not allowed to flow through full time, the stagnant coolant causes the metals to corrode faster, but most of the time it is just lack of maintenance to the cooling system.
@@quicksilver462 I imagine most cars flow thru the core at all times and use air flaps to adjust.
@@quicksilver462 You just reminded me to get the coolant flush done on my 2021 Hyundai Sonata Limited 1.6 T. It only has 10,000 mi. However it has been 12 months and now it needs to be done.
Great video, I had an older Escalade with this same issue. I walked away from it. The price was around 5K to do the work. Wasn't worth it. I have a Toyota Highlander, no issues!
A friend took a small Honda motorcycle transmission apart. He ordered the parts. However, the parts took a few weeks to arrive. He had put the transmission parts in an old cardboard box. . . . so he then took the box of old parts and the new parts to a Honda dealer. The dealer put it all back together again. He said it was worth it. 😊 . . . This happened around 1970. Of course, the GM truck you were working on has many more parts.
Watching this video, it makes me think, when buying a used truck, don’t buy one with a broken air conditioning unit or with a broken heater, because despite what the seller tells you, it will not be a simple repair.
Darn my comment was hated on and deleted..
Cybercrime Censorship by Google UA-cam algorithms strike again. Free speech don’t exist anymore in Chinamerica lol I’ll photo snap it!
Don’t buy a used 1990-2000 truck like this. Rip out the old dash and put a hot rod custom basic dash. Oil, Temp, Volt, Tach, Speedometer and Fuel gauge.. you don’t need air conditioning or heating as it’s a utility gopher truck.
A good reason to negotiate a great price and then DIY.
I was about 15 min into the video. Since I've seen the hvac box I was thinking in my head I would probably replace that heater core as well cause I don't want to go back in for another 20 years. Lol glad he's gonna do it too, it settled down my anxiety
I challenge the Wizard to do a time-lapse video on the assembly of this job.
I’m betting Mrs Wizard doesn’t want to do the editing for that lol.
He hires a guy to do it
The worst part is when you finally get the air box out and you think you are almost done. But then you have to disassemble the box and you just want to be done and put it back together. I usually quit for the day when I get the air box out and come back to it the next day. If you want to be a more patient person, do an evap change, you will learn patience whether you like it or not.
You're absolutely brilliant and so honest. I really enjoy your videos. I'm always learning from you.
This videos demonstrates why I still hold onto my 2-71 Datsun 521 trucks as they are super easy/cheap to maintain.
I’m hanging on to my mom’s 1982 Ford Granada.. Blower fan bearings went out but it’s on the passenger side, behind the glove box.. It’s a Fox Body design. The in-line 6, engine front/rear main seals are shot, possibly the block needs to be recast or replaced or upgraded to a 3.8 liter V6, no electronic, mechanical fuel injection system. There’s no computers..
i had to do a heater core replacement on my own 2002 subaru legacy a few years ago. as it was my only source of transportation and i had a newborn heat was very important, and it was important to get it done as quick as possible. i had that sucker torn down within 2 hours and completed withinin 5. i hope i never have to do something like that again with my ford flex.
This is freaking crazy. We had a 2001 Silverado, I never knew why my girlfriends dad wouldn't get this fixed. The more you know
on my 85 Mustang I yanked the dash last year to change the heater core and evaporator core. I changed all the gaskets. 4000 miles later the heater core began to leak. I am going to yank it again and replace it with one from a local rebuild shop. You are right car wizard, it is taxing on the mind to yank the dash to do that work.
This is one of those jobs that is guaranteed to make a mechanic swear. About 18 years ago some low life broke the front windscreen washer nozzle on my old 1992 Toyota Town Ace, the part was a couple of pounds but I had to remove the whole dashboard to install the part. It was a 2 man job to remove & refit the whole dash. :)
Love the video another way to make sure all the parts go back the way they came out is to label them with tape 1 2 3 4 and so on then when you get back together you take the screws to the correct appropriate part and you know exactly where they all went
Regarding the Lincoln: The likelihood of this car being used in cold/winter weather is nil. I'd just bypass the heater for now. While it's nice to have everything working per factory, sometime you can't. If there is another heater core the same size without this valve, install it with a vacuum operated valve mounted somewhere else. Many cars of the 70's to 80's used vacuum valves to control flow to the heater and they were mounted on the engine.
I wonder how the factory put this together. When I worked at Mitsubishi in Normal, IL, the IP was subassembled offline and installed in one piece with almost all the stuff on it except for some side panels and underneath panels. All the small stuff was on it. The HVAC box was one of the first things (after the main body wiring harness) that went on the bare body that came out of the paint shop.
Same thing I was thinking.If you could find the same size heater cores.Eliminate those valves.Thermostat opens,coolant flows>heat on.No,it"s not that easy,pardon me.But,their has to be a answer.
Second paragraph was about the Chevy truck A/C.
good insight with little drama--the Wiz is a whiner.
@@markrunyon5524 On some cars, you don't want hot water flowing through the core because there is no way to bypass the air. The air stream goes through both the heater and the A/C.
@@hotpuppy1 I knew it was done that way for some reason.
I recently did one on a 2000 Ford Excursion. Not bad at all. Worse part was the old quick disconnect fittings on the heater hoses. Very hard to get to, and anything but quick connect after 20+ years. I was surprised to hear the 2000’s f150 was so bad. Nice job Wizard.
Legend has it: The Car Wizard was the first human on Earth to discover magnets.
His *MAGNETIC* personality?
No he invented them along with nuclear fission
15:15 very wise words of advice in the auto repair industry. This repair job is a metaphorical analogy of "strike while the iron is hot!" Anytime, such major repair that involves removing assemblies in order to replace something like a heater core or what have you and there is a related part that is within that vicinity that will fail at any time, despite it being in intact condition, it is advisable to replace it at the same time. It may put a little ding in the repair bill, but will definitely save huge on a repeat labor cost. Case in point, when I was replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my 2004 Chevrolet Impala, the oxygen sensor was very accessible, so I replaced it right then and there despite it still being original and in good, working order.
Now to answer if its really worth it question, yes, if you have the time, the space, the money and the experience, go for it!
Thank you for discouraging me from ever taking my dash off my 04 Silverado.
Probably a similar setup to my 02 avalanche, you're feeling adventurous you can cut the bottom and side off of the HVAC box and get to both the heater core and the EVAP core. As a diy, this is a more home approach, you just have to glue the pan els in place when you are done. There are several GM models where this is the recommended way to get the heater core and evap core out. In the 07 and up generation, the HVAC box can be removed from the Dash without taking the dash out.
Just when I was considering this body style. I'll just get myself another early 90's Chevy or GMC C1500. I replaced the heater core myself in less than 30 mins
I remember doing the Heater core on my 93 Buick. Took me half an hr. And I had never touched or even seen a heater core before that.
I bought a 2004 GTO 6 speed as a daily years ago and it's been such a fantastic vehicle. I've had many Yukon's and Tahoe's in the past. All great vehicle's. Lasted to 300k miles with proper maintenance. Idk if the wizard likes Lucas Oil Stabilizer. But as my engines got higher mileage I used it and worked very well with my oil pressures.
Really eye opening.
Heater core for my 1980 F-150 was a one hour job.
omg i have a 94 chevy 1/2 ton 4wd, it fills all my needs. it runs and drives great. i will cherish it and keep it forever. so far its been pretty easy to work on.
On the Lincoln there are entirely new heat core's similar sized, I know this since a friend is making a V8 powered mg gt he was able to get a universal very close to what you're holding. I would suggest this question is this going to be a show car? If so direct them to a restoration shop. Overwise slap a universal in. I know you like all original I also. But if it is made of " unobtanium" a boat owners expression, but valuable for old car maintainers or any functional repairer. I always go the most reliable universal heater core would work with a vac valve. Your not a restoration shop, I know you're "" getting out of old car's but they will never be out of you.
I was waiting and waiting.. then you said it"TAKE PICTURES". Well done. My phone is full of the jobs
i've had to do. This helps so much..
I have substituted heater valves before on some of my vehicles. The later 60s GM vacuum valves have worked on some of my antique vehicles. As long as the line size matches they work.
My old car had heater core clugged so it was cold inside the car in winter. In the summer we swapped heater core and dashboard for used one cracks free on parking lot in front of my appartment block. It took us all day long, from morning to evening. Also heater lines got disconnected a day before in a shop and connected again after the repair was done, because of lack of space to do it from the hood.
When my evaporator core goes out on my 2005 Tahoe I'm cutting it out of the housing, replacing it and gluing/duck-taping and caulking the housing back together myself.
Thanks for the video, you are amazing, I am convinced you could do anything, thank you for being here on UA-cam helping us out in the auto repair world!
Reminds me of the F-4 Phantom. A complex hydraulic system with 24 hydraulic filters. Of 14 different types and different fittings. The coax cable to the tail antenna? Had a connector near the base of the tail that often failed. Required the removal of both engines. About 4 man-days of work and lots of risk of breaking two $2 million J59 jet engines. Slightly worse than on this truck.
Ya I'm done being a maintainer lol and I used to bitch about the AC130W being a Frankenstein of a plane before it retired this summer. Then the last one to fly to fly to Davis Montham blew the 2 left tires out landing on their runway... good times
and then people have the gall to bitch about how the new system has servos right there at the device, connected by wires.
@@gravestone9831 I was at DM when a last fly B-52 came in. Chute failed to unfurl and it did rooster tails of burning rubber till the tires blew at the far end. I worked on drone catching H-3's. 1979.
Hey, look on the bright side. At least they didn't have radar-absorbent paint. I'm not getting a read on how you really feel about those particular airplanes, but if you miss them occasionally check out the link below. This guy had regular access to the last operational F-4's in Japan and is obviously a fan. He also has a criminally small number of subs and views considering the quality of his content.
ua-cam.com/video/UZJ6_FKVVyI/v-deo.html
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 well thank you for your service I'll always be partial to gunships but those B52s are something else. I didn't think I'd find many air force people on UA-cam 🤙
Just changed out my evaporator core and heater core this week on my 99 Silverado. Feels pretty good😎
Ironic how the 4th gen Camaro/ Firebird , ANOTHER GM car of the era. You can get the Evap/ heater core out WAY easier without the need to take the dash apart. Just take the glove box off and the heater core cover off, unbolt the lines under the hood and you can wiggle the core out !
A lot of cars and trucks are like that, but a lot are not.
Sounds like the only easy thing to work on with those cars
Probably the easiest heater core. 3rd generation. Not so much. Fuel pump for either? Grab your socks 🤣
I replaced the heater and evap cores on a 1999 mountaineer over a weekend. I had to start with the seats, then the center console before I even started on the dash. My yard was full of pieces of interior from that vehicle. 8-10 hours each day of the weekend. the best part of the story is the vehicle was stolen a week later and demoloshed in a police chase. So the moral is to put it off another week first.
As much of a pain as it can be, I say it's still worth it if it keeps these older trucks on the road. 2k-4k bill vs buying new truck for 60k+ (which will likely have its own mechanical gremlins to worry about) or even another old one for the same price as the repair bill (then it's no telling when that bill comes back), it seems like almost an obvious choice to me.
I agree 100%
That would really depend on the condition of the rest of the truck. From the looks of this one, I don't see HOW it would be worth it. I suppose it might be low mileage?... but then if it did I'd think it wouldn't even need the evaporator if that was the case. For 4k?... roll the windows down, bite the bullet until the weather cools back down.
@@garyr7027 sounds all fine and dandy until the heat index is over 110
@@SaxaphoneMan42 most people would not sink 4K into this truck just to have AC. Six months later the tranny goes out?... perhaps the engine?... not counting other upkeep. You put 4K in this and it won't end, the owner will be forced to keep going. Nope not worth it when that 110 only last a couple months a year at best... and that's being modest. If the owner can't do the work to save money, then the owner ends up with a cash pit.
@@garyr7027 lets say the engine and tranny blows out completely, FUBAR. a 4l60E and ls motor will be what, 3k-4k in parts, and another few thousand in labor? so lets say both of those happen near the time of this AC, you've now spent 10-12k for a truck that's gonna run like new vs 60k+ for a new one. I don't see the "cash pit" argument making any sense when a new vehicle is going to be far more expensive, and any used vehicle isn't going to be much cheaper and you won't know how close those issues are to coming back.
Ok, so now AFTER watching this entire video, Holy crumb cake Bat Man! I had no idea how many parts you had to remove to get to the heater core. Great video though, that was amazing! Now I can show my friends when they question my decision of buying a newer car and getting the extended warranty.
They've only gotten worse, too. On the new Chevy Equinoxes and Buick Envisions, you have to remove the front doors for access to the bolts holding the dash frame in.
insane. An auto magazine needs to handout awards for bad engineering.
Wizard, I have never ever felt so much anxiety and satisfaction simultaneously while watching a video.
Great vid!
I get this feeling changing out the cabin air filter on my G35. You have to remove way too much to replace just the filter IMO.
I love my 370Z to death but dread working on it. Besides changing the oil there's not one job on that car that isn't a royal pain in the ass.
That's damn near every nissan product lol
I’m a shade tree mechanic and I’ve replaced heater core on 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2005 and 2006 Ford Crown Victoria. While I was in there I replaced blend doors on all three. It took me whole weekend on each car
Driver "Just found out my car is totaled!"
Friend "What happened, accident, is anyone injured? You OK?"
Driver "Just got an estimate to get my AC fixed"
I'm more impressed that you know how to put it all back together and probably don't have any 'extra' nuts or bolts at the end.
I own a 94 K3500 GMT-400 the generation before this one. I dont understand how they could make it easier for you to get to your heater/evap core on older trucks than newer ones, the newer it is should be the easier to access. Just goes to show the companies dont care about the consumer.
My 96 K1500 is worth more money to me now after watching this.
@@Spadookie 96 was the best year for that body style. 1st year for the Vortec V8 & OBDII, & the last year before the ugly tall passengers side airbag.
@@justinstandifer604 It's a 5.7 Vortec Z71 GMC Sierra in white. I swapped in forged control arms while I gather parts for a SAS. No 3rd door on it also. Everything about these trucks is easy to work on. Except the spider injectors.
Wrong they want you to bring it in so you can pay the dealership that's why they're called stealerships
It reminds me of years ago when I decided to replace all the brake lines on my Goldwing !! The bike was in bits. Excellent video, thanks a lot. Colin UK 🇬🇧
This is what you get when stockholders are considered more important than customers. A pox on MBAs.
My first car was a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, I had it for 7 years (still ran great with 180k miles but the body was rotted out). I used to rip my dash apart regularly to swap out radios, replace burnt out light bulbs behind the gauge cluster, I even soldered in tiny new bulbs inside the HVAC unit because I was so obsessed with having all the backlights working. Obviously I didn't take the *entire* dash apart like this, but I know what you mean with the creaking plastics and how fragile everything is. You really have to hold your breath while doing this stuff. Lucky for me the heat and a/c always worked marvelously in that thing haha
I love how the wizard is non negotiable about doing those preventative jobs when he has to do a complicated removal of another part.
No games. No options. Timing belt, water pump, evaporator core, heater core etc. The customer either does it right or takes it somewhere else.
And it's ultimately for the customers own good. He's a responsible mechanic. The best kind!
All mechanics should be this way. It should almost be a requirement
@@silverstreak1001 Agreed!
I have a 2001 Silverado 2500 HD. Just did a radiator, water pump and heater hose quick connect Thanks for sharing.
Wizard are there ways to bypass taking at least some of this stuff apart via strategically place holes and homemade hatches? If you happen to get your hands on some scrap vehicles with issues like this I think it would make a great longer term video series to show things like that for people with older vehicles that dont mind making some modifications for easier maintenance.
@Kellen
*GREAT SUGGESTION....THERE ARE PLENTY OF REASONABLE SHORTCUTS TO BE MADE ON THESE OLDER VEHICLES THAT WILL CUT REPAIR COSTS AND NOT COMPROMISE THE FUNCTIONALITY OF THE VEHICLE AT ALL*
I have a 1999 Chevy 2500 6.0 heater core was replaced an 4 or 5 years ago. $1,100. to pay a shop to do it . The first shop I went to he didn’t want to do it and I use him quite often. The 2nd shop did it because he knew me and we went to school together and I use him also , he told me if someone walked in off the street he didn’t know he wouldn’t do it. He did a good job. And I was happy and still driving the truck with 214,000 miles on it.. If I remember correctly it took them about 11 hrs to put the heater core in and put it all back together.
Greetings to y'all from Michigan!
I did a '95 Cheyenne 3500 interior teardown to replace from a fire. It took me 2 days to get it out. Took 4 hours to get the salvage one out - no broken parts. So I appreciate the difficulty. But for contrast, Scott over at Vehor does this as a matter of course and is a walk in the park for him. Everything is relative.
Wizard,I’ve been watching your videos for a long time. Really appreciate them. Would you say that the 1999-2006 Gm pickups are the last of the solid Gm trucks? I tend to think so.
Made a good living as an ASE mastertech doing everything for 15 years. This video reminded why I stopped wrenching for a living 20 years ago....
If GM didn’t make everything so cheap, the evaporator core wouldn’t have failed. Just ask a Toyota Tacoma or tundra owner. “Pay me now or pay me later” I believe is the phrase. Every gm I had had a failed evaporator core right after the warranty expired.
Yeah well, they have frame issues to deal with too
@@scottcreesy6084 true, but they recalled and fixed most of them and they learned from that mistake and the newer ones don’t have the issue. GM never learns.
@@mongo64071 while I partially agree with you ( Toyota has been outsourcing lots of components to lowest bidders the past 20 years to keep costs down, they aren't what they used to be) I also have 230,000 on my 01 Silverado 5.3. Like most anything, it's all about maintenance
I remember 25 years ago I had a beautiful 1966 Pontiac Bonneville with factory AC and there was a vacuum hiss coming from the dashboard somewhere..
I got in the shop manual and it was a fresh air vacuum actuator that switched from outside air to inside air and the 1st step was to remove the dash pad,,,,,,,,,,, and the bottom line was you had to remove the entire dash to access it..
The part wasn't available anyway so I never did it...
You had to leave the fresh air button pushed in at all times or it was hissing...
I think with all this stuff apart I would replace all the dash light bulbs.
Best running truck I ever had was a 02 Silverado,,and most dependable!! Have a 13 Silverado now it's not half the truck as my 02 was!!!
What a battle!!! Really appreciate you walking us through what all it takes to do this job. It's shocking how poorly engineered this design is on a 1999 model year truck. I imagine things have only gotten exponentially worse in modern vehicles; especially given the poor quality of materials used nowadays. I'd be interested to hear any insights you have on whether there are any makes/models that have relatively well designed HVAC systems
Poorly engineered? This truck is 25 years old! These HVAC systems are not "high-fail" parts. Now, step back and think about the HIGH FAIL parts in the F150's from 97 through (at least) 2014. EXPENSIVE parts! ENGINES! Many of these jobs the mechanics completely removed the cab. And these trucks were NOT 25 years old when the problems (FAILURES due to POOR ENGINEERING) started showing up. Maybe they would get 2 years out of the Triton engines before MAJOR problems - some of them lasted until the warranty expired, but many of them had to have MAJOR ENGINE WORK done several times before the trucks were 10 years old.
20:55 I commented on the first video of this truck (I know the videos are a little old now) but you are very much correct about the newer trucks being easier in terms of dash/interior tear downs for repairs of this nature. I was replacing a faulty steering column lock module on a 2022 or 2021 GMC Sierra if I can remember correctly. It is bolted to the stop of the steering column itself and is towards the very back. There isn't much work around for this job and it did involve a lot of interior panel removal in that you wouldn't think is necessary upon first glance. Though there's a good bit of interior dash tear down involved, its not near as bad as these older trucks. I will say though, it's nice when everything is new, not brittle, hasn't been taken apart a million times and is designed in a manner with which serviceability seems to be considered by the engineers just a little more than it used to be. That's only in certain aspects/areas of them newer vehicles today however. With all that said, I'm glad my 05 Sierra's heater core never went out in the 240k miles it lived before a tree that grew legs took my trucks life lol :/
Just watch a video on how you we no sure about doing the videos and how it may hurt your shop. Well all I can say is thank you for sticking with it we learn a lot from your content. Once again thank you
I replaced a heater core on my wife’s 1996 Ford escort in 2002 and it took me a total of six hours which included a trip to the junkyard to replace a brake shift interlock that was damaged prior. The whole dash came out as one unit save the radio and gauge cluster. It was a very easy job. Nothing about today’s cars are easy.
As a home mechanic, I could never do this job. It's not just the huge amount of tedious disassembly work and needing an acre of space to store all the removed pieces. I wouldn't be able to resist the "while we're at it" job creep. I'd be looking at the foam seals that are crumbling, and the heater & a/c hoses that I've already disconnected, and various fasteners that got lost/damaged, and undoubtedly some other things that would appear. And then I'd want to clean all of it before putting it back together. The job would never end!
Yep. I probably could start taking it apart, but should I? Lol
Had to do the same with a 1995 Land Rover Discovery years ago. Hiding the heater matrix and various airon parts must've been a real design thing back then. Good video. thanks Wizard.
I love the truck the parts last so long usually without breaking down like modern cars. Water pump and thermostat last almost 20 years. Alternator and starter over 12 years. Ac systems lasted about 15 years before it needed some repair. Cv axles I'm bearly going to replace them same with the control arms but they lasted so long I'm amazed. Also one can add a extra battery if you plan to add accessories.
Replaced the evap core on my 2007 F150 FX4 has a floor shift in the center consul. Pulled the front seats the consul the steering column rolled the carpet back to access the duct work for the back seat then dropped the dash and pulled the heater box. Split it replaced the evap core heater core and the blend door motor reassembled it back with new heater hoses these are the o ring type. Took me 2 and a half days in my garage at home 54 years old at the time felt it for a week. The diag a low charge and could smell ac oil out the vents the evap core showed no oily deposits was questioning my diag. 2 years later still cold as ice. I am a 30 year licensed class 8 truck and coach and automotive tech class 8 my bread and butter. Man same job done with my boss a Ford Edge my truck was worse.