Hey rod! Any reason why you didn’t use a primer. I plan to do this on my 2000 lx470 and was just gonna do a clear coat but upon rethinking and watching your video it may be better to at least do a matched base coat first
You don't have to use primer unless you have some serious unlevel surface or there is damage that requires filling and heavier sanding and such. As long as the surface can be smoothed out with finer papers like 320 and 400, no primer is required. You do want to use a basecoat though. But you do not spray the entire panel. Just like I showed in this video, sand out the peeled area to where it is feathered in. Sand or scuffy the rest of the panel. Then only spray the basecoat over the area that was peeling. Fan out lightly from the peeled area onto the panel but try not to pray color to an edge going to the next panel, if that can be avoided. No matte how great the paint is in matching, there is always a bit of difference in shade or just the way it is sprayed onto the panel. Once you have blended out the color, then clear the entire panel with a 2K clear. One thing you can use after you get all your sanding done and the panel is cleaned and prepped for painting. Apply a adhesion promoter to the panel first. That is just a little extra but not necessary if you sanded and scuffed and wiped the panel down good enough.
Awesome video! I am looking to redo the hood on my Toyota Highlander but it is mostly just to make it look a little better and prevent rust. How vital is repainting before the clear coat in terms of the clear coat staying on.
I am not sure I understand the question. Are you asking if you should spray a base coat before the clear? If that is your question and you are just wanting to shoot clear over the already existing paint, this can be done. Keep in mind, if the hood already has peeling clear, shooting new clear over it will not hide the peeled edges. That is where you would want to spray the base coat to hide those type of imperfections. If the hood has just lost its shine and isn't that bad of shape, you just need to sand it with 400 to 800 grit wet sandpaper. Just go easy and not cut through the color. You can also use scotch-brite scuffy pads and then wipe the hood down really good with a wax and grease remover. Then spray the clear. Send me some pics of your hood to my website and I can give you a better idea of how to fix it. rodsshop.org/contact/ I do not charge for advice, I like to help people.
@@RodsshopOrg I was just wanting to put a clear coat over my hood since it was peeling a lot. I don’t care about the color and edges since it is a beater car. I just wanted to stop rust from staring. I may end up panting and clear coating just as you did in the video
If you don't really care about the imperfections showing, then just rub a scuffy pad over it. Then wipe it down with some wax grease remover and clear it. I will tell you that a 1K clear might last a year if that and it requires more coats than a 2K clear. 1K clear in a spray can is cheaper by the can but you may need about 4 cans, depending on the size of your hood. 2K clear is more expensive but will take less can and give a higher gloss. Hope that helps @@kevinb871
This was not my vehicle, however it was a friend of mine and yes, the 2K spray can clear last as good as if it was sprayed from a gun. The difference is, spray gn products can be laid down heavier and cover better than a spray can, but the product is as high quality as if you bought it for a spray gun.
I didn't have to, as it came out really nice but I sanded and buffed a little on that whole side of the vehicle just to ensure a uniformed look. It would be to your discretion really.
There are many videos on this subject. Many of which show you can clear over the existing paint. It is possible to do but it isn't easy to do if you want it to come out right. I have some videos on this, here is one of them so you can see what I am talking about: ua-cam.com/video/c7g07zHK6EY/v-deo.html If you can sand the peeling clear back to where you can no longer see the edges of the clear. And do this without sanding through the color, you might be able to get it to look better than what it does. I would highly recommend getting some matched base coat, Sand the peeling clear back, and at least wherever the peeling places are, spray and fan out some base coat in those areas before you clear. You can get matching base coat from your paint code and this company here is the paints I used in the video that led you to me. rodsshop.org/get/automotive-touchup-aerosols/ I can look at what you are dealing with if you want to send me some pictures. Contact me through my website and you can share your pictures: rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/ I can give you better advice and tips if I know exactly what you are dealing with.
@@RodsshopOrg Thank you for the prompt response! The vehicle is a fiberglass motorcoach. I have areas on the back that was exposed to sun when I bought it from the previous motorhome. How do I send you photos? Email? Thanks again!
Wow! Looks like new for under a hundred dollars. Awesome!
Hey rod! Any reason why you didn’t use a primer. I plan to do this on my 2000 lx470 and was just gonna do a clear coat but upon rethinking and watching your video it may be better to at least do a matched base coat first
You don't have to use primer unless you have some serious unlevel surface or there is damage that requires filling and heavier sanding and such. As long as the surface can be smoothed out with finer papers like 320 and 400, no primer is required.
You do want to use a basecoat though. But you do not spray the entire panel. Just like I showed in this video, sand out the peeled area to where it is feathered in. Sand or scuffy the rest of the panel. Then only spray the basecoat over the area that was peeling. Fan out lightly from the peeled area onto the panel but try not to pray color to an edge going to the next panel, if that can be avoided.
No matte how great the paint is in matching, there is always a bit of difference in shade or just the way it is sprayed onto the panel. Once you have blended out the color, then clear the entire panel with a 2K clear.
One thing you can use after you get all your sanding done and the panel is cleaned and prepped for painting. Apply a adhesion promoter to the panel first. That is just a little extra but not necessary if you sanded and scuffed and wiped the panel down good enough.
@@RodsshopOrg Sounds great, just finished the prep and will be painting tomorrow thanks for the advice
Excellent job
Best video yet !
Awesome work!! I’ve tried it up in Springfield Mass but failed horribly. Too much wind
Yes, the wind, the wrong time of day and humidity can trash a paint job. It is hard to paint outside due to so many unknown factors
Great video! I had to subscribe
the job you did was professional looking.But my one question is how many coats of clear did you spray on because i dont think you ever said?
I put on 2 coats of clear
Awesome video! I am looking to redo the hood on my Toyota Highlander but it is mostly just to make it look a little better and prevent rust. How vital is repainting before the clear coat in terms of the clear coat staying on.
I am not sure I understand the question. Are you asking if you should spray a base coat before the clear? If that is your question and you are just wanting to shoot clear over the already existing paint, this can be done.
Keep in mind, if the hood already has peeling clear, shooting new clear over it will not hide the peeled edges. That is where you would want to spray the base coat to hide those type of imperfections.
If the hood has just lost its shine and isn't that bad of shape, you just need to sand it with 400 to 800 grit wet sandpaper. Just go easy and not cut through the color. You can also use scotch-brite scuffy pads and then wipe the hood down really good with a wax and grease remover. Then spray the clear.
Send me some pics of your hood to my website and I can give you a better idea of how to fix it. rodsshop.org/contact/
I do not charge for advice, I like to help people.
@@RodsshopOrg I was just wanting to put a clear coat over my hood since it was peeling a lot. I don’t care about the color and edges since it is a beater car. I just wanted to stop rust from staring. I may end up panting and clear coating just as you did in the video
If you don't really care about the imperfections showing, then just rub a scuffy pad over it. Then wipe it down with some wax grease remover and clear it. I will tell you that a 1K clear might last a year if that and it requires more coats than a 2K clear. 1K clear in a spray can is cheaper by the can but you may need about 4 cans, depending on the size of your hood. 2K clear is more expensive but will take less can and give a higher gloss. Hope that helps @@kevinb871
Is this your vehicle? Do you know how well the paint and clear coat job has held up so far?
This was not my vehicle, however it was a friend of mine and yes, the 2K spray can clear last as good as if it was sprayed from a gun. The difference is, spray gn products can be laid down heavier and cover better than a spray can, but the product is as high quality as if you bought it for a spray gun.
Doesn't require any buffing and polishing afterwords?
I didn't have to, as it came out really nice but I sanded and buffed a little on that whole side of the vehicle just to ensure a uniformed look. It would be to your discretion really.
Can you just put clear coat on, without painting? My clear coat is peeling but paint is fine it appears.
There are many videos on this subject. Many of which show you can clear over the existing paint. It is possible to do but it isn't easy to do if you want it to come out right.
I have some videos on this, here is one of them so you can see what I am talking about:
ua-cam.com/video/c7g07zHK6EY/v-deo.html
If you can sand the peeling clear back to where you can no longer see the edges of the clear. And do this without sanding through the color, you might be able to get it to look better than what it does.
I would highly recommend getting some matched base coat, Sand the peeling clear back, and at least wherever the peeling places are, spray and fan out some base coat in those areas before you clear.
You can get matching base coat from your paint code and this company here is the paints I used in the video that led you to me.
rodsshop.org/get/automotive-touchup-aerosols/
I can look at what you are dealing with if you want to send me some pictures. Contact me through my website and you can share your pictures:
rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/
I can give you better advice and tips if I know exactly what you are dealing with.
@@RodsshopOrg Thank you for the prompt response! The vehicle is a fiberglass motorcoach. I have areas on the back that was exposed to sun when I bought it from the previous motorhome. How do I send you photos? Email? Thanks again!
@@KurtErickson-x7f Contact me through my site and we can start conversing and you can send me pics.
rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/
Spraying the roof of a car is harder with spray cans.
Good video get right in to business don't waste time