Suggestion for bonus clip related to this video. It’s pretty common for folks to install “hidden switches” on the bottoms of their cabinets to disable features in their cabinet. Especially if your going to be wiring up DOF or LEDWIZ. You can have hidden switches under the cab to disable the features all together. IE… if your playing at night in a game room and you want to disable all the loud speakers and flashy led lights, you can do it right from the cab and not have to change a bunch of software profile settings. Super easy to do to, provided you wire it up to a switch before you send power out to the devices. I think folks would love to see this “advanced wiring technique” in perhaps another video. Especially with the use of your wiring blocks, it makes it super easy to wire up. As always… great content! ❤
Yeah that's a great idea! There's always soo much to put in these videos so I gotta cut them shorter. Maybe a video wiring in hidden switches and how to add a shift button for things like pinvol adjusts, night mode, no leds, etc. Thanks for the watch!
I'm in the middle of filming a Pinvol tutorial video and the suggestions you made are all done with Pinvol. You can press a button and have nightmode which you can set the volume for. It's a great program.
WOW! Thanks Patrick! I am striving to make the best content I can for you guys so it's always nice to hear things like this from you guys! There's been a lot of people contributing to this hobby to make it what it is today and without them, I wouldn't be making my vpin cab. So this is my way to help out new people to this amazing hobby. Cheers!
Thanks Cathrine! We still gotta do a colab for the pinball cover! I know the basics of patterns and seam techniques but it's been a while since I've threaded a sewing machine and ran one. It would be fun!
Just as a FYI, pretty sure all fan manufacturers embed a fan direction mark on the side of the body of the fan. Terrific work. Was just going to buy a pinball machine. Got me thinking about building one now.
Thanks for the tip! You should totally build a vpin, you can save your money and build a better vpin than you can buy and for a lot cheaper too. Good luck on your build!
Awesome video - tons of great information in a single video. I really like Donald's suggestion on some discussion on how you could implement the hidden switches as I think most who build a cabinet would want this capability. Keep up the great stuff!
Thanks dude! Yeah I do try to "teach" you guys probably more than you need to know but I feel that's my niche on UA-cam. Deeper learning rather than just spit out info. Yeah I like his idea too, I'll probably make a video for that plus adding a shift button for even more functions like Pinvol adjustments, night mode, led strips off, etc. Cheers!
I just finished this video and was planning to ask in the comments about when the SSF setup video was coming! I just ordered the same set of amps and transducers you purchased and am excited to see how you get it setup. All of your videos are incredibly well executed -- you're a lifesaver for people, like me, just entering this hobby. Thank you!
Just scheduled the ssf video for youtube in 3 weeks or so. Ssf is a gamechanger for real! It feels like real mechanical stuff is going on underneath the play field. Glad your enjoying the channel Peter! Maybe you could help me out and share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people, thanks in advance! Cheers!
Nice job and really nice job of going over things. This actually was the video I was kind of waiting for. How many lines, what voltages, and what needed to be connected how and how many devices you needed to make it all work. I get it, and that really helped. After I finish your series, I will start going down with a calculator and figure out what it will cost me :)
Thanks CoolDave! Glad I could make it easier for you. Why wait? It's too cool of a project to wait. Just do what I did and buy a couple used monitors and cobble a used pc together and have fun playing for a couple months to see what it is all about. Then when you find out it's the coolest thing ever, you can spend some more money to start on a cabinet. Cheers!
Thanks for your kind words! If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel! Cheers!
I really enjoy this series Edit Only suggestion is zero volt or ground strip my old eyes sometimes miss things but what ever amperage your drawing check your ground to be sure the wire gauge is sized ok and enough
Thanks Leroy! There is a zero Volt/ground terminal block, it's the one with all of the black wires going to it. The yellow wires are for 12V, the brown is the 6.3V, and red is 5V. Yeah for now the 18 gauge wires should be good but I might have to go a bit bigger for the addressable led wires (60 amp total). Mind you, there will be multiple wires to inject power and ground so it might be ok with 18 gauge. Thanks for the watch Leroy!
A bit late. My only nit to pick is that a ATX power supply will not supply that power evenly like the laptop/console ones. A 500W one will almost certainly not give you 100A at 5V for instance. It probably doesn't matter too much for a cabinet but it's something to think about as power needs rise. More modern ones are very focused on 12V (for video cards) and the other Voltages not so much. The label on the side will give details. You also touched on the fact that even the same voltage may be split into rails each with their max amperage. So you might end up needing multiple split out blocks for a single voltage. Just would hate for someone to try and power a bunch of LEDs off of it and get into weird power issues for instance. Thanks for the series!!!
The ATX power supply will be fine for aleds as you will not be drawing that much power.... I'm not even drawing 10 amps for everything. You'll never run 100 amps in a vpin. That being said, I did run a separate amp for my LEDs and showed that as well and I went overboard with a 60 amp PSU. My next build I'm going to try running just a 10 amp PSU from Cleveland Software Design's kit and see if that's enough. I think it'll need a bit more but we'll see. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Yea you might need more than 10A. I didn't try and count what you have on this project. 10A should get you to about 150-175 -ish LEDs full white, full bright and probably twice that with more normal usage. 60mA is what I use for my safety planning number anyway. This project is going back to the top of my list as soon as the kids grow out of Paw Patrol. 😄
May I suggest something? UA-cam is showing your vídeos in different order. If you could put them in a sequel it would be nice. It jumped from backbox to wiring them putting the legs on, lol. Awsome content!
Since I used a"stand-alone" KL25, with Pinscape FW, I build boosters and used outputs to have DOF controlled button/coin door lights. Another awesome video. I just did a tear down for paint. This will be my 1st time prepping plywood with pocket holes. How far out is that video LOL. Thanks again.
Thanks dude! Yeah there's lots of ways to do that, I have an ledwiz that I will setup for a future rgb flipper button upgrade and dof controlled front panel buttons. Cool! You're probably gonna be done your prep and paint before me as my video schedule is slow but for my sanity. I would plug those pocket holes/cut/sand them so you don't have wood fill shrinkage. Good luck!
Yeah. I used all 32 Ledwiz outputs. They go fast when using RBG since each lamp or strip uses 3 outputs. My Ledwiz is controlling 10 contactors, 5 flashers, 2 RGB strips and strobes for 32 outputs. The KL25 with Pinscape is doing all button lights, coin door lights and beacon. Custom boosters with fused inputs for all. Playing around with the combo of contactors and SSF I leaned toward the contactors. The sound and feel was very realistic. But I found that the SSF was a great filler for some tables. Simpson's Party is one. Nice sound and feel of the ball rolling on the playfield and the ball and coin drop effects are great too. I think I'll be playing that table alot. Hoping there are many more tables that will give the same effects.
I found this video series a month ago or so and you've totally inspired me to build a cab. I built an arcade cab nearly 10 years ago and the hardest part by far was not the build, but was all the research on the "how". It was much harder back then to get clear information so I absolutely appreciate the sheer wealth of information you have packed into these videos. It's a huge time (and sanity) saver for all of us! I have actually ordered most of my parts and will be starting the build this weekend. Curious, when will you be dropping the SSF setup video? Hopefully soon. That is the last main question mark I have in this project and can't wait to see how you tackle it. Keep up the great work!
Glad you found me Steve! You should totally build a vpin! In many ways these vpin cabinets are way cooler than an arcade cabinet. Lot's of cool stuff to customize your own. My SSF video is scheduled in 2 weeks to drop. My SSF is insane! I'm still tweaking my nudge settings to get it perfect but nice and loud/feeling strong, You need to install SSF! Thanks for the watch Steve and welcome to the channel!
I could but I am using a lot of LEDs so I would most likely be maxing out my ATX supply. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Enjoy the series!
Great Video!! Just wondering why you don’t use the PC psu for both 12v and 5v supply and not have a separate 5v power supply for addressable led strips? Thanks
Your videos are great and I'm learning a lot. Someday I'll do a full build but for now I'm just modding my ALP. How do you calculate the power needed to make sure the power supply can handle it? Example: I've got a 12V supply running flipper solenoids. If I want to tap into that for SSF amps, how do I make sure it can handle it? Hoping I don't need to buy another supply and can use what I've already got.
Thanks! Usually you add up the watts for each device and make sure the PSU can provide that amount plus some headroom. I would not mix mechanical toys with your SSF as you can have feedback issues in your audio. It's easy enough to add another PSU. Good luck with your future build and enjoy the rest of the series. Thanks for the watch!
Instead of using 6.3 volts for your incandescent lights could you just buy 3 12 volts LED bulb replacements? I love that fuse wire you got there, definitely going in my next build. Great job!!
Yeah you totally can buy replacement led bulbs, I just did this to show how you could use a regulator for the original bulbs. Yeah those in line fuse holders are slick....and cheap. Thanks for the watch!
@Way of the Wrench I saw you have a rocker switch in the back. One that takes a standard PC Cord. Did you strip the end of the power strip to attach to it to only have to plug that in?
Yes it is in this video. I stripped the end of the power strip plug and attached the connections to the back of this IEC 320 switch. So now there is a switch from the outside for the entire cabinet and a 10 amps fuse in case something isn't right. Thanks for the watch!
Awesome, I'm glad you're able to get something out of my diy series! I just used standard 120mm 4 wire pwm computer fans. They work great and so far no heat issues, especially with the pwm control boards to turn them up if they need to ( which they haven't). Good luck on your build!
Great video. I'm guessing if you wanted to keep things simple with the fans, you could just connect these to the 12v power supply? I always envisaged them being on all the time, not temperature regulated
Thanks! Yes you totally could hardwire your fans to be on full blast when power to the cabinet is on. I was concerned with fan noise though so opted for a low fan speed unless the temps went up and then they would auto turn up until the temps went down. Just for reference, the fans never turn up or at least I never hear them. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Enjoy the series!
is there a specific step down regulator you use here? Also is there a reason you have the external 5v power supply and didnt draw the 5v from the ATX as well? Trying to determin if i can just run everything from the ATX (Minus the computer) . thanks
I just added a link for the step down voltage regulator board to the parts video description and to this video's description. I needed the step down regulator to go to 6.3 Volts which is the original voltage for those bulbs (they are a bit brighter than 5V). So I used the 12V from the ATX PS and stepped it down to 6.3. Thanks for the watch!
again, great video... it's funny how "close" our builds are. Due to the longer breaks in your episodes we are ahead of you by now (I guess), so now you copy our project - without ever seeing a video from us :-) Greetings from your German enthusiasts
Thank you very much...danke! Yeah they are bound to be pretty close since we are both trying to replicate a pinball cab but it's more about the little touches and unique things we do that make these special to us. Yeah my filming/editing schedule is kinda slow but required for my own sanity as this is not my full time job....I already have 2 of those! At this moment, I have my SSF completed and running great and I am getting ready to start filming a welding cast Aluminum repair video and I'm also starting to think about how I am going to film the addressable led video as there is a LOT of info there. I might start with a shorter video on how to test your led strips and matrix before you install them so you know they work as I have bought lots of them that have bad leds and require you to cut them off. Cheers from Canada! PS...have you ever been here on vacation?
@@wayofthewrench never been to Canada, yet (still on my bucket list). I've just visited the US (twice). Mostly we spend time in beautiful Croatia. It's embarrassing that I only know Canada from the Simpsons movie, ooohhh. Please don't worry about the breaks. I admire people who are busy, getting things done and keeping a business going. That's why I like your videos so much. You are not one of those unemployed influencers. You have knowledge and teaching skills. Have you ever been to Germany?
I'm going to do a wiring clean up and a ground cable install when I do the teardown for paint and vinyl. It's more of a safety thing in case a hot wire touches something metal that somebody touches on the outside and gets zapped.
Doing the button wiring on my cab now and working with mix of buttons from different sources and some old build ones I've lost track of their source, so I little worried I feed them wrong voltages. Is there a way to check the bulbs voltages? They all do seem to be LED ones but no indication anywhere if they are 5, 6.3 or 12.
Usually you remove the bulb and look at the markings and then look up the specs. Here's a decent source of info for ya. Cheers! www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/pinball-bulb-info.1952/
I'm following parts of what you show here, along with some of your other videos. I have a Sainsmart relay board that I will be connecting to my Arcade 1up solendoids (probably do something different once I decide exactly what I want to to). But for now, I just want to get the power all setup. I have terminal blocks that I'll be wiring in as well. The only thing I'm having trouble with right now is where to place the fuse? I'm unclear on that. Looked like you put in one fuse for the whole power supply. Can you explain a little? Edit: Never mind, I watched a little further and you explain. You are using it in a daisy chain to run power to a lot of buttons. And correct me if I'm wrong, but since you are using a terminal block and everything on that block is connected together, it will protect everything drawing power from the block?
I used inline fuses for my devices so if a wire has a fuse, it will pop and protect that device. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Yes, you totally can order separate voltage power supplies. I was simply showing how you could use a cheap/free atx power supply for this use. thanks for the watch Peter!
Why you didnt choose to take the 5V also from the PC Powersupply? Does ist not have it? I saw powersupplies for 5V, 12V and 24V all in one - does this solve all my power problems?
Two issues. One is that you don't want your toys powering your audio too, you'll experience feedback issues. The second is that my 5V led strips need way more power than my ATX PSU can supply. Hope that answers your question. I do set up a 5 V from the ATX for my interior led lightning near the end of the series though. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Grounds? Not really. Power, yes..... eventually if you draw too much power. You only have so much supplied wattage and once that's used up, it won't support it. Aldo each rail on a ATX is only so much too. Thanks for the watch!
Hello, your video series has inspired me to try and build my own VP cabinet. I'm at the early stage of looking for free/cheap TV's and PC. I got some leads, hopefully can start building soon. Regarding this particular video, could you provide a little more information related to the terminal blocks? Are they all the same? I'm seeing some on Amazon that look like yours, but they have 15amp and 25amp options. What do you suggest? Are there other things I should be considering? I know you mentioned you might upgrade to a 10 or 12 position terminal in the future. Last question, were you using the colored 22 gauge wire on all of those runs? Electrical is not my strong suit, I'm hoping to mirror your setup so I have a good reference. Thanks!
That's exciting! You're gonna have a lot of fun! The terminal blocks are generally all the same just the amount of spots for connections. Most of the wiring is low amperage in the cabinet depending on how much your putting through them. I would suggest terminal blocks that are 10 or 12 just in case as they are not that much more than 8. With signal wires I used 22 gauge and the power wires I use 18 gauge. The colored wires were just to keep it easy to keep track of which wire went where. I also used red for 5v, yellow for 12v, black for ground, brown for 6.3v. Good luck on your build. If ya have any questions, feel free to ask. When your done, please send me some pics of your vpin!
No it's more that the amperage drawn wasn't over the 10 amps. the diode just prevent flyback voltage which is the same amperage in a burst just backwards.
This series has been an inspiration. Your videos are so easy to follow and has helped me so much. I have one question (and forgive me if you have mentioned it somewhere) Did you ever 'ground' your cab like mentioned in the mjr bible with the braided cable? I don't recall seeing it in any of your videos and now I am at that stage wondered if you did it with your cab (or any workarounds you may have done). It mentions grounding all the metal parts (legs, rails, plunger plate, lockbar etc) to the AC ground (I know the DC is different). Would love to know if you managed to do it (or not) and reasons. Thanks!
Awesome, glad you like my teaching style, you should check out my welding and auto videos too! Yes I have that grounding info/install in my upcoming final assembly video along with cleaning up the wiring. This week is the vinyl video and 2 weeks after is the final assembly video. Thanks for the watch and enjoy the series!
That's great I very much look forward to those and yes I have watched some of your other series, especially the Arcade build too. Can't wait for the next videos now!! @@wayofthewrench
You totally can use the 5v off of the atx psu; however, my 5v is going to be for all of my addressible led strips which are going to need like 60 amps. So I put in the other psu just for that and so I could show people that type as it's probably more common. Thanks for the really good question!
In this case I didn't because I liked showing the board and all of the functions like temp control and lowered fan speeds when not needed and alarms for fan stopped. Thanks for the watch!
I wasn't planning on it as there are lots of holes near the top and there's going to be some air flow from underneath. I need to check though and see if its hot or not. I might put in one or two more and aim them upwards though. Thanks for the watch!
You might have issues with any audio or ssf and your other mech toys or lighting. Other than that, it might be ok. Either way, it's just 30 bucks or so to seperate them. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
@@wayofthewrench thank you so much for the reply! I will definitely separate them. So nice being able to learn this stuff the easy way. Thank you for everything 🙏
You can do what did with my led power supply, just add a switch to disconnect the power to the toy or if all of the toys are on a power supply you could put that on a switch. Or you could add a latching button in line with the signal wire to the relay board so it doesn't turn on the relay. Lots of ways to do it. Thanks for the watch!
You totally can! I will be using my 5v for my addressable led strips and matrix which will be pulling 60 amps so I thought I would keep it seperate plus I get to show you guys how to install the other type of power supply. Thanks for the watch!
Good day. Would you be able to link me to your source for your Teensy and also the Octo adapter? The MJR link has it (3.2 board) out if stock. I see there are later versions of the Teensy. Can a later Teensy version be used? I would really like to upgrade my Flasher Panel to ARGB Matrix and along the sides of the playfield. I pushed forward, with the RGB Flasher Panel when I saw the Teensy was out of stock and the chips were delayed until April 2023. Thanks.
Just did a quick google search and thi popped up. Looks like the teensy 3.2 are all out of stock like you said. I bought mine a while back when everywhere had one. Not 100 sure but I think the newer versions will work still. The octo board should be easier to find. www.amazon.com/Teensy-3-2-OctoWS2811-Adaptor/dp/B07HBPGNDN/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=teensy+3.2&qid=1668824015&sr=8-2
Although i'm planning a standard wide body and will start by buying a plywood flat pack, I figure i'll need 6 months for my project, especially since i don't really know what i'm doing. Then i noticed your first video in this series is from 18 months ago (granted, the parts list one is "only" 12 months ago) but you're still not done! Oh no!!
Don't think thatmy vpin cabinet is taking forever, if I wanted to and didn't have to film, I would be done in a couple weekends. I have to research, build, film, edit, and schedule my videos which is why the delay. I take my time with my videos in order to make them the best I can. Plus it's not my full time job and I only get an hour a day to work on stuff. Thanks for the watch!
Question - Did your button kit ship with 12v bulbs and 6.3v 555 bulbs in a separate box? They sell LED equivalents of the 555 bulbs and my setup would be much cleaner if I could swap all of the button bulbs out for 5v 555 LEDs (I don't have your coin door so that's not a concern). I know that 5v LEDs will provide similar light levels to 6.3v incandescent, but my concern is whether or not I can swap the 12v bulbs out with the 5v LEDs. For example, the launch ball button had a12v bulb pre installed, my LED equivalent fits right in. If I swap in my 5v LED bulb and then wire it for 5v am I causing any issue? It seems like a simple yes but I am newer to the tinkerer side of electronics and would prefer not to burn my house down. Thanks in advance!
The launch ball button and the coin doors were 6.3V bulbs stock and the round buttons lamps are from an old arcade build I had left over so that is why they are 12V LED bulbs. I would say that it is totally safe to put in the same voltage bulbs but in led form or to put in a smaller voltage bulb in led form as the leds do not have as much heat as the standard bulbs do. As long as the replacement bulb physically fits, it should be ok. I would not change for a higher voltage though as you are asking for issues there. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench Too good, meaning that I am having too much fun playing with it to finish the build. My LEDs are sitting in my closet giving me dirty looks every time I walk by. My one undiagnosed issue is the tilt sensitivity given the addition of the bassshakers. Did you ever post anything on how to resolve that?
I am in the middle of editing a video on Pinvol, this is the fix. It allows you to tweak your rom music and ssf to exactly what you want and it saves it per table.
Hello! I need to solve a dilemma! I would like to use a single power supply in my new mini virtual pinball cabinet build and that would be the PC psu. Hence I will need to get power for the following components, beside the motherboard, cpu, gpu and anything else attached to the mb: 2 driver/controller video pcbs, to control the playfield and the bacgklass display (12v 3a each), 1 mini audio amplifier (12v 5a will be sufficient, since the audio system is composed by 2x 3'' 5w speakers and 1x 6,5'' 150w woofer which will never reach max. output volume power) and one 5v led for the pc power button. According to some calculations and to the fact that the GPU will be something not greater than a gtx 1650 (or a 1050ti), the power absorbtion should be fine, using a 500w psu. But the real dilemma is: it is advised to load everything (displays included) under a PC power supply? It will be a problem if everything will turn on when I press the PC power button (like displays not properly showing in pinup popper, cause of a random power on order, or anything else)? Any other ideas? My current build has separate power connection for the PC psu and a powerstrip line where I have attached the 2 video driver/controllers and the audio ampli. Everything is smooth, but I don't like the idea of having 2 separate power cables getting out of my cabinet. The reason why I would prefer not to go with the master/slave power strip strategy is because space is very limited (we are talking of a 600mm long, 300mm wide and 540mm tall cabinet). Thanks a lot and
I would not recommend using only one ATX PSU because of power fluctuations. You want your PC to have clean power or gameplay will be affected. I really don't think a 500w PSU will be enough either. Thanks for the watch!
Underwriters laboratories approved psu? These are safe power supplies if that's what you mean. Just gotta wire them up correctly and with correctly sized wires. Thanks for the watch.
Cheer up Rick! I'm doing a complete tear down for paint/vinyl and when it goes together I'm cleaning up the wires and adding grounding straps. It'll all be good. Cheers!
Nice as always. I'm thinking I'll be watching this half a dozen times when I get to working on wiring. Thanks!
There's lots of info crammed in there so you might have to! Thanks for all of the views! LOL.
Suggestion for bonus clip related to this video. It’s pretty common for folks to install “hidden switches” on the bottoms of their cabinets to disable features in their cabinet. Especially if your going to be wiring up DOF or LEDWIZ. You can have hidden switches under the cab to disable the features all together. IE… if your playing at night in a game room and you want to disable all the loud speakers and flashy led lights, you can do it right from the cab and not have to change a bunch of software profile settings. Super easy to do to, provided you wire it up to a switch before you send power out to the devices. I think folks would love to see this “advanced wiring technique” in perhaps another video. Especially with the use of your wiring blocks, it makes it super easy to wire up. As always… great content! ❤
Yeah that's a great idea! There's always soo much to put in these videos so I gotta cut them shorter. Maybe a video wiring in hidden switches and how to add a shift button for things like pinvol adjusts, night mode, no leds, etc. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench if you could do it, I would appreciate it!
I'm in the middle of filming a Pinvol tutorial video and the suggestions you made are all done with Pinvol. You can press a button and have nightmode which you can set the volume for. It's a great program.
Aint no better sundsay mornings! Sitting with a fresh-made coffee and watch the best show
That's awesome and very cool to hear! Thanks for that. Enjoy!
You are a rock star. Seriously, I think this video series is by far the best and most detailed guide to build a virtual pinball machine. :)
WOW! Thanks Patrick! I am striving to make the best content I can for you guys so it's always nice to hear things like this from you guys! There's been a lot of people contributing to this hobby to make it what it is today and without them, I wouldn't be making my vpin cab. So this is my way to help out new people to this amazing hobby. Cheers!
Great detailed instructions, thank you!
Thanks Cathrine! We still gotta do a colab for the pinball cover! I know the basics of patterns and seam techniques but it's been a while since I've threaded a sewing machine and ran one. It would be fun!
@@wayofthewrench Yes, let's schedule that in!
Hope you're enjoying your break!
Excellent wiring....very neat,clear and concise.Good job.👍
Thank you very much!glad you like the video and my teaching style. Thanks for the watch!
Just as a FYI, pretty sure all fan manufacturers embed a fan direction mark on the side of the body of the fan. Terrific work. Was just going to buy a pinball machine. Got me thinking about building one now.
Thanks for the tip! You should totally build a vpin, you can save your money and build a better vpin than you can buy and for a lot cheaper too. Good luck on your build!
Awesome video - tons of great information in a single video. I really like Donald's suggestion on some discussion on how you could implement the hidden switches as I think most who build a cabinet would want this capability. Keep up the great stuff!
Thanks dude! Yeah I do try to "teach" you guys probably more than you need to know but I feel that's my niche on UA-cam. Deeper learning rather than just spit out info. Yeah I like his idea too, I'll probably make a video for that plus adding a shift button for even more functions like Pinvol adjustments, night mode, led strips off, etc. Cheers!
Nice work again mate. Cheers from Australia
Thanks Dan! Have a Fosters for me! Cheers!
Awesome video as usual dude. Perfect timing as I need to get my LED buttons sorted.
Thanks dude! Awesome, lot's of people are completing their cabinets faster than I can produce my videos.....lol. Cheers!
I just finished this video and was planning to ask in the comments about when the SSF setup video was coming! I just ordered the same set of amps and transducers you purchased and am excited to see how you get it setup. All of your videos are incredibly well executed -- you're a lifesaver for people, like me, just entering this hobby. Thank you!
Just scheduled the ssf video for youtube in 3 weeks or so. Ssf is a gamechanger for real! It feels like real mechanical stuff is going on underneath the play field. Glad your enjoying the channel Peter! Maybe you could help me out and share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people, thanks in advance! Cheers!
This was a huge help. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad I could help you Chris! Enjoy the rest of the series!
Nice job and really nice job of going over things. This actually was the video I was kind of waiting for. How many lines, what voltages, and what needed to be connected how and how many devices you needed to make it all work. I get it, and that really helped. After I finish your series, I will start going down with a calculator and figure out what it will cost me :)
Thanks CoolDave! Glad I could make it easier for you. Why wait? It's too cool of a project to wait. Just do what I did and buy a couple used monitors and cobble a used pc together and have fun playing for a couple months to see what it is all about. Then when you find out it's the coolest thing ever, you can spend some more money to start on a cabinet. Cheers!
very affable, and well articulated, good videos
Thanks for your kind words! If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel! Cheers!
Nice work man! Your Videos are the best!
Thanks Bruh! I just wish UA-cam would suggest me more.....I'm lost in a sea of videos. Lol.
I really enjoy this series
Edit
Only suggestion is zero volt or ground strip my old eyes sometimes miss things but what ever amperage your drawing check your ground to be sure the wire gauge is sized ok and enough
Thanks Leroy! There is a zero Volt/ground terminal block, it's the one with all of the black wires going to it. The yellow wires are for 12V, the brown is the 6.3V, and red is 5V. Yeah for now the 18 gauge wires should be good but I might have to go a bit bigger for the addressable led wires (60 amp total). Mind you, there will be multiple wires to inject power and ground so it might be ok with 18 gauge. Thanks for the watch Leroy!
Epic content! Thanks as always!
Sweet! Thanks Bruh!
A bit late. My only nit to pick is that a ATX power supply will not supply that power evenly like the laptop/console ones.
A 500W one will almost certainly not give you 100A at 5V for instance. It probably doesn't matter too much for a cabinet but it's something to think about as power needs rise.
More modern ones are very focused on 12V (for video cards) and the other Voltages not so much. The label on the side will give details.
You also touched on the fact that even the same voltage may be split into rails each with their max amperage. So you might end up needing multiple split out blocks for a single voltage.
Just would hate for someone to try and power a bunch of LEDs off of it and get into weird power issues for instance.
Thanks for the series!!!
The ATX power supply will be fine for aleds as you will not be drawing that much power.... I'm not even drawing 10 amps for everything. You'll never run 100 amps in a vpin. That being said, I did run a separate amp for my LEDs and showed that as well and I went overboard with a 60 amp PSU. My next build I'm going to try running just a 10 amp PSU from Cleveland Software Design's kit and see if that's enough. I think it'll need a bit more but we'll see. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench
Yea you might need more than 10A.
I didn't try and count what you have on this project. 10A should get you to about 150-175 -ish LEDs full white, full bright and probably twice that with more normal usage. 60mA is what I use for my safety planning number anyway.
This project is going back to the top of my list as soon as the kids grow out of Paw Patrol. 😄
May I suggest something? UA-cam is showing your vídeos in different order. If you could put them in a sequel it would be nice. It jumped from backbox to wiring them putting the legs on, lol. Awsome content!
Thank you for noticing that, I have now placed the suggested video at the end to the proper sequence in the playlist. Thanks!
Since I used a"stand-alone" KL25, with Pinscape FW, I build boosters and used outputs to have DOF controlled button/coin door lights. Another awesome video. I just did a tear down for paint. This will be my 1st time prepping plywood with pocket holes. How far out is that video LOL. Thanks again.
Thanks dude! Yeah there's lots of ways to do that, I have an ledwiz that I will setup for a future rgb flipper button upgrade and dof controlled front panel buttons. Cool! You're probably gonna be done your prep and paint before me as my video schedule is slow but for my sanity. I would plug those pocket holes/cut/sand them so you don't have wood fill shrinkage. Good luck!
Yeah. I used all 32 Ledwiz outputs. They go fast when using RBG since each lamp or strip uses 3 outputs. My Ledwiz is controlling 10 contactors, 5 flashers, 2 RGB strips and strobes for 32 outputs. The KL25 with Pinscape is doing all button lights, coin door lights and beacon. Custom boosters with fused inputs for all. Playing around with the combo of contactors and SSF I leaned toward the contactors. The sound and feel was very realistic. But I found that the SSF was a great filler for some tables. Simpson's Party is one. Nice sound and feel of the ball rolling on the playfield and the ball and coin drop effects are great too. I think I'll be playing that table alot. Hoping there are many more tables that will give the same effects.
You got a ink for the custom boosters? I wouldn't mind trying to make some.
I found this video series a month ago or so and you've totally inspired me to build a cab. I built an arcade cab nearly 10 years ago and the hardest part by far was not the build, but was all the research on the "how". It was much harder back then to get clear information so I absolutely appreciate the sheer wealth of information you have packed into these videos. It's a huge time (and sanity) saver for all of us! I have actually ordered most of my parts and will be starting the build this weekend.
Curious, when will you be dropping the SSF setup video? Hopefully soon. That is the last main question mark I have in this project and can't wait to see how you tackle it. Keep up the great work!
Glad you found me Steve! You should totally build a vpin! In many ways these vpin cabinets are way cooler than an arcade cabinet. Lot's of cool stuff to customize your own. My SSF video is scheduled in 2 weeks to drop. My SSF is insane! I'm still tweaking my nudge settings to get it perfect but nice and loud/feeling strong, You need to install SSF! Thanks for the watch Steve and welcome to the channel!
Could you use another down step module to make the 5v bus? why use an external source?
I could but I am using a lot of LEDs so I would most likely be maxing out my ATX supply. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Enjoy the series!
Great Video!! Just wondering why you don’t use the PC psu for both 12v and 5v supply and not have a separate 5v power supply for addressable led strips? Thanks
I didn't want power surges from led lights going into the audio plus the sleds were using close to 60 amps. Thanks for the watch!
Your videos are great and I'm learning a lot. Someday I'll do a full build but for now I'm just modding my ALP. How do you calculate the power needed to make sure the power supply can handle it? Example: I've got a 12V supply running flipper solenoids. If I want to tap into that for SSF amps, how do I make sure it can handle it? Hoping I don't need to buy another supply and can use what I've already got.
Thanks! Usually you add up the watts for each device and make sure the PSU can provide that amount plus some headroom. I would not mix mechanical toys with your SSF as you can have feedback issues in your audio. It's easy enough to add another PSU. Good luck with your future build and enjoy the rest of the series. Thanks for the watch!
Instead of using 6.3 volts for your incandescent lights could you just buy 3 12 volts LED bulb replacements? I love that fuse wire you got there, definitely going in my next build. Great job!!
Yeah you totally can buy replacement led bulbs, I just did this to show how you could use a regulator for the original bulbs. Yeah those in line fuse holders are slick....and cheap. Thanks for the watch!
@Way of the Wrench I saw you have a rocker switch in the back. One that takes a standard PC Cord. Did you strip the end of the power strip to attach to it to only have to plug that in?
Yes it is in this video. I stripped the end of the power strip plug and attached the connections to the back of this IEC 320 switch. So now there is a switch from the outside for the entire cabinet and a 10 amps fuse in case something isn't right. Thanks for the watch!
Great videos that you are sharing which are greatly appreciated and helping my build. What size were the fans that you used? Cheers.
Awesome, I'm glad you're able to get something out of my diy series! I just used standard 120mm 4 wire pwm computer fans. They work great and so far no heat issues, especially with the pwm control boards to turn them up if they need to ( which they haven't). Good luck on your build!
Great video. I'm guessing if you wanted to keep things simple with the fans, you could just connect these to the 12v power supply? I always envisaged them being on all the time, not temperature regulated
Thanks! Yes you totally could hardwire your fans to be on full blast when power to the cabinet is on. I was concerned with fan noise though so opted for a low fan speed unless the temps went up and then they would auto turn up until the temps went down. Just for reference, the fans never turn up or at least I never hear them. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Enjoy the series!
is there a specific step down regulator you use here? Also is there a reason you have the external 5v power supply and didnt draw the 5v from the ATX as well? Trying to determin if i can just run everything from the ATX (Minus the computer) . thanks
I just added a link for the step down voltage regulator board to the parts video description and to this video's description. I needed the step down regulator to go to 6.3 Volts which is the original voltage for those bulbs (they are a bit brighter than 5V). So I used the 12V from the ATX PS and stepped it down to 6.3. Thanks for the watch!
again, great video... it's funny how "close" our builds are. Due to the longer breaks in your episodes we are ahead of you by now (I guess), so now you copy our project - without ever seeing a video from us :-) Greetings from your German enthusiasts
Thank you very much...danke! Yeah they are bound to be pretty close since we are both trying to replicate a pinball cab but it's more about the little touches and unique things we do that make these special to us. Yeah my filming/editing schedule is kinda slow but required for my own sanity as this is not my full time job....I already have 2 of those! At this moment, I have my SSF completed and running great and I am getting ready to start filming a welding cast Aluminum repair video and I'm also starting to think about how I am going to film the addressable led video as there is a LOT of info there. I might start with a shorter video on how to test your led strips and matrix before you install them so you know they work as I have bought lots of them that have bad leds and require you to cut them off. Cheers from Canada! PS...have you ever been here on vacation?
@@wayofthewrench never been to Canada, yet (still on my bucket list). I've just visited the US (twice). Mostly we spend time in beautiful Croatia. It's embarrassing that I only know Canada from the Simpsons movie, ooohhh. Please don't worry about the breaks. I admire people who are busy, getting things done and keeping a business going. That's why I like your videos so much. You are not one of those unemployed influencers. You have knowledge and teaching skills. Have you ever been to Germany?
I have been to Frankfurt and Berlin and I bused through Germany on my way to Slovakia. It's a beautiful country!
I'm seeing mention of a grounding strip in others setups...
Are you doing this? Thoughts on whether it's needed or not?
I'm going to do a wiring clean up and a ground cable install when I do the teardown for paint and vinyl. It's more of a safety thing in case a hot wire touches something metal that somebody touches on the outside and gets zapped.
Will you share PS of audio amps with toys using this ATX supply?
I have been as I am adding shaker motor and gear motor, so far no issues.
Doing the button wiring on my cab now and working with mix of buttons from different sources and some old build ones I've lost track of their source, so I little worried I feed them wrong voltages. Is there a way to check the bulbs voltages? They all do seem to be LED ones but no indication anywhere if they are 5, 6.3 or 12.
Usually you remove the bulb and look at the markings and then look up the specs. Here's a decent source of info for ya. Cheers!
www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/pinball-bulb-info.1952/
I'm following parts of what you show here, along with some of your other videos. I have a Sainsmart relay board that I will be connecting to my Arcade 1up solendoids (probably do something different once I decide exactly what I want to to). But for now, I just want to get the power all setup. I have terminal blocks that I'll be wiring in as well. The only thing I'm having trouble with right now is where to place the fuse? I'm unclear on that. Looked like you put in one fuse for the whole power supply. Can you explain a little?
Edit: Never mind, I watched a little further and you explain. You are using it in a daisy chain to run power to a lot of buttons. And correct me if I'm wrong, but since you are using a terminal block and everything on that block is connected together, it will protect everything drawing power from the block?
I used inline fuses for my devices so if a wire has a fuse, it will pop and protect that device. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
what directions you put the fans blowing out ?
Front ones are blowing in and back ones are blowing out. Thanks for the watch!
Hi. Is it possible to go with only dedicated power supply to each voltage? I do not feel confident in messing with atx power suppy.
Yes, you totally can order separate voltage power supplies. I was simply showing how you could use a cheap/free atx power supply for this use. thanks for the watch Peter!
Why you didnt choose to take the 5V also from the PC Powersupply? Does ist not have it? I saw powersupplies for 5V, 12V and 24V all in one - does this solve all my power problems?
Two issues. One is that you don't want your toys powering your audio too, you'll experience feedback issues. The second is that my 5V led strips need way more power than my ATX PSU can supply. Hope that answers your question. I do set up a 5 V from the ATX for my interior led lightning near the end of the series though. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
@@wayofthewrench thank you 👍
you're very welcome!
When daisy chaining power supply 24v 12v 5v on one plug is there any limitations ?
Grounds? Not really. Power, yes..... eventually if you draw too much power. You only have so much supplied wattage and once that's used up, it won't support it. Aldo each rail on a ATX is only so much too. Thanks for the watch!
Hello, your video series has inspired me to try and build my own VP cabinet. I'm at the early stage of looking for free/cheap TV's and PC. I got some leads, hopefully can start building soon. Regarding this particular video, could you provide a little more information related to the terminal blocks? Are they all the same? I'm seeing some on Amazon that look like yours, but they have 15amp and 25amp options. What do you suggest? Are there other things I should be considering? I know you mentioned you might upgrade to a 10 or 12 position terminal in the future. Last question, were you using the colored 22 gauge wire on all of those runs? Electrical is not my strong suit, I'm hoping to mirror your setup so I have a good reference. Thanks!
That's exciting! You're gonna have a lot of fun! The terminal blocks are generally all the same just the amount of spots for connections. Most of the wiring is low amperage in the cabinet depending on how much your putting through them. I would suggest terminal blocks that are 10 or 12 just in case as they are not that much more than 8. With signal wires I used 22 gauge and the power wires I use 18 gauge. The colored wires were just to keep it easy to keep track of which wire went where. I also used red for 5v, yellow for 12v, black for ground, brown for 6.3v. Good luck on your build. If ya have any questions, feel free to ask. When your done, please send me some pics of your vpin!
Did you add slow blow fuses to your toys?
I added regular 10 amp inline fuses. 2 years and no issues or fuses blown. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Thanks for the reply,I'm assuming that because you used the diodes the cancer of feedback voltage is low.
No it's more that the amperage drawn wasn't over the 10 amps. the diode just prevent flyback voltage which is the same amperage in a burst just backwards.
This series has been an inspiration. Your videos are so easy to follow and has helped me so much. I have one question (and forgive me if you have mentioned it somewhere) Did you ever 'ground' your cab like mentioned in the mjr bible with the braided cable? I don't recall seeing it in any of your videos and now I am at that stage wondered if you did it with your cab (or any workarounds you may have done). It mentions grounding all the metal parts (legs, rails, plunger plate, lockbar etc) to the AC ground (I know the DC is different). Would love to know if you managed to do it (or not) and reasons. Thanks!
Awesome, glad you like my teaching style, you should check out my welding and auto videos too! Yes I have that grounding info/install in my upcoming final assembly video along with cleaning up the wiring. This week is the vinyl video and 2 weeks after is the final assembly video. Thanks for the watch and enjoy the series!
That's great I very much look forward to those and yes I have watched some of your other series, especially the Arcade build too. Can't wait for the next videos now!!
@@wayofthewrench
Here is the video with the grounding wire in case you didn't see it.
ua-cam.com/video/q-O0SMqILYY/v-deo.html
Looks like you went back to a smaller screen again? You didn't like the 32"?
No I didn't change my monitors, still using a 32" and a 46". After decasing them, they do look a lot smaller though don't they.
At 2:55 I thought you didn’t have pants on! Lmao I had to go back and confirm! Lmao
Lol, that's funny! Yeah shorts and and a shop coat look a little funny....thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench especially Biege (flesh tone) lol
Lol...Way of the Wrench only fans! Cheers!
Why didn't you get 5V from the ATX powersupply? Was a nice vid looking forward to the next one
You totally can use the 5v off of the atx psu; however, my 5v is going to be for all of my addressible led strips which are going to need like 60 amps. So I put in the other psu just for that and so I could show people that type as it's probably more common. Thanks for the really good question!
Any reason you dont just use your computer, to switch on all the PC PSU ? So when computer shouts down, it also shouts all PSU's off.
?
In this case I didn't because I liked showing the board and all of the functions like temp control and lowered fan speeds when not needed and alarms for fan stopped. Thanks for the watch!
are you going to put any fans in the back box
I wasn't planning on it as there are lots of holes near the top and there's going to be some air flow from underneath. I need to check though and see if its hot or not. I might put in one or two more and aim them upwards though. Thanks for the watch!
I was thinking I could just use a 1200watt PSU for everything (outside of a dedicated 850 for the PC). Is there a reason that's a bad idea?
You might have issues with any audio or ssf and your other mech toys or lighting. Other than that, it might be ok. Either way, it's just 30 bucks or so to seperate them. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
@@wayofthewrench thank you so much for the reply! I will definitely separate them. So nice being able to learn this stuff the easy way. Thank you for everything 🙏
No worries, glad to help!
How would i connect a switch to the toys,so that I could turn them on or off?
You can do what did with my led power supply, just add a switch to disconnect the power to the toy or if all of the toys are on a power supply you could put that on a switch. Or you could add a latching button in line with the signal wire to the relay board so it doesn't turn on the relay. Lots of ways to do it. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Thanks for the advice.
You are very welcome!
Why didn't you use 5v from the PC PSU?
You totally can! I will be using my 5v for my addressable led strips and matrix which will be pulling 60 amps so I thought I would keep it seperate plus I get to show you guys how to install the other type of power supply. Thanks for the watch!
Good day. Would you be able to link me to your source for your Teensy and also the Octo adapter? The MJR link has it (3.2 board) out if stock. I see there are later versions of the Teensy. Can a later Teensy version be used? I would really like to upgrade my Flasher Panel to ARGB Matrix and along the sides of the playfield. I pushed forward, with the RGB Flasher Panel when I saw the Teensy was out of stock and the chips were delayed until April 2023. Thanks.
Just did a quick google search and thi popped up. Looks like the teensy 3.2 are all out of stock like you said. I bought mine a while back when everywhere had one. Not 100 sure but I think the newer versions will work still.
The octo board should be easier to find.
www.amazon.com/Teensy-3-2-OctoWS2811-Adaptor/dp/B07HBPGNDN/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=teensy+3.2&qid=1668824015&sr=8-2
Although i'm planning a standard wide body and will start by buying a plywood flat pack, I figure i'll need 6 months for my project, especially since i don't really know what i'm doing. Then i noticed your first video in this series is from 18 months ago (granted, the parts list one is "only" 12 months ago) but you're still not done! Oh no!!
Don't think thatmy vpin cabinet is taking forever, if I wanted to and didn't have to film, I would be done in a couple weekends. I have to research, build, film, edit, and schedule my videos which is why the delay. I take my time with my videos in order to make them the best I can. Plus it's not my full time job and I only get an hour a day to work on stuff. Thanks for the watch!
Question - Did your button kit ship with 12v bulbs and 6.3v 555 bulbs in a separate box? They sell LED equivalents of the 555 bulbs and my setup would be much cleaner if I could swap all of the button bulbs out for 5v 555 LEDs (I don't have your coin door so that's not a concern).
I know that 5v LEDs will provide similar light levels to 6.3v incandescent, but my concern is whether or not I can swap the 12v bulbs out with the 5v LEDs.
For example, the launch ball button had a12v bulb pre installed, my LED equivalent fits right in. If I swap in my 5v LED bulb and then wire it for 5v am I causing any issue?
It seems like a simple yes but I am newer to the tinkerer side of electronics and would prefer not to burn my house down.
Thanks in advance!
The launch ball button and the coin doors were 6.3V bulbs stock and the round buttons lamps are from an old arcade build I had left over so that is why they are 12V LED bulbs. I would say that it is totally safe to put in the same voltage bulbs but in led form or to put in a smaller voltage bulb in led form as the leds do not have as much heat as the standard bulbs do. As long as the replacement bulb physically fits, it should be ok. I would not change for a higher voltage though as you are asking for issues there. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench Thanks!
How's the vpin treating you?
@@wayofthewrench Too good, meaning that I am having too much fun playing with it to finish the build. My LEDs are sitting in my closet giving me dirty looks every time I walk by. My one undiagnosed issue is the tilt sensitivity given the addition of the bassshakers. Did you ever post anything on how to resolve that?
I am in the middle of editing a video on Pinvol, this is the fix. It allows you to tweak your rom music and ssf to exactly what you want and it saves it per table.
Hello! I need to solve a dilemma! I would like to use a single power supply in my new mini virtual pinball cabinet build and that would be the PC psu. Hence I will need to get power for the following components, beside the motherboard, cpu, gpu and anything else attached to the mb: 2 driver/controller video pcbs, to control the playfield and the bacgklass display (12v 3a each), 1 mini audio amplifier (12v 5a will be sufficient, since the audio system is composed by 2x 3'' 5w speakers and 1x 6,5'' 150w woofer which will never reach max. output volume power) and one 5v led for the pc power button. According to some calculations and to the fact that the GPU will be something not greater than a gtx 1650 (or a 1050ti), the power absorbtion should be fine, using a 500w psu. But the real dilemma is: it is advised to load everything (displays included) under a PC power supply? It will be a problem if everything will turn on when I press the PC power button (like displays not properly showing in pinup popper, cause of a random power on order, or anything else)? Any other ideas? My current build has separate power connection for the PC psu and a powerstrip line where I have attached the 2 video driver/controllers and the audio ampli. Everything is smooth, but I don't like the idea of having 2 separate power cables getting out of my cabinet. The reason why I would prefer not to go with the master/slave power strip strategy is because space is very limited (we are talking of a 600mm long, 300mm wide and 540mm tall cabinet).
Thanks a lot and
I would not recommend using only one ATX PSU because of power fluctuations. You want your PC to have clean power or gameplay will be affected. I really don't think a 500w PSU will be enough either. Thanks for the watch!
dude, atleast use UL listed PSU's...other than that...great vids
Underwriters laboratories approved psu? These are safe power supplies if that's what you mean. Just gotta wire them up correctly and with correctly sized wires. Thanks for the watch.
you had place to hide excess wire underneath and didnt even make a service loop :(
Cheer up Rick! I'm doing a complete tear down for paint/vinyl and when it goes together I'm cleaning up the wires and adding grounding straps. It'll all be good. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench just one of those things that kills me as an electrician/ET/IT person
I hear ya, it's hard to watch people doing things shoddy....cheers!
Please Remove This Video.
Why?