IMHO, the Part in the middle of the MOTOR alternator that has the shaft on it is the ROTOR which has two copper round surfaces which the brushes make contact with, this is called the slip ring. The stator is the laminations which has enameled copper wound through it.. seems that you were calling both STATOR.. I did work in the alternator dept at Ford Rawsonville Ypsilanti MI in the 60s. They made 38 42 and 60 amp small frame alternators and I believe in the 70s started making Large frame alternators which had much more current and had built in voltage regulators. The earlier alternators from the 60s had external voltage regulators... All the information you are sharing is GREAT thanks for sharing, very interesting to me. Keep it up you are doing well!
Regarding automobile alternators: The rotor is the bit that rotates. The stator is the bit that does not rotate. It is stationary. There are one or two exceptions but they are not applicable in the configuration described above.
you prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot my login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me
@Isaias Jeremy Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
This is the most complete video on these topics I've seen. You include the alternator mod, the field current control, AND how to hook it up to a controller. Beautiful well-edited vid. The only suggestion I can make is to update the links to eBay to make them more robust. The alternator ones still work as of Aug 2022, but the rest of them fail. Also, in the descriptions before the links, if you add more detail, we can search ourselves even if the links break. I know I'm nitpicking -- this is still an excellent vid and the best I've seen.
0:38 this is the rotor/field winding a.k.a electromagnet hence only two leads. The stator is the three windings excited alternately through the controller to provide a rotating magnetic field
Reverse direction of rotation by; a) swapping 2 of the STATOR windings [changes the direction of the rotating 3 phase field] e.g. change from ABC to ACB ... OR b) the polarity connection to the ROTOR [changes the magnetic polarity of the rotor]. e.g. simply swap connection at battery. You may need to do this if gearing, pully or propeller configuration the direction is wrong. That machine will take higher voltage you know, especially on the rotor, BUT limit rotor current no matter what voltage applied.
a 2000 WATT BLM is only $75-$90...With the SPROCKET.lol Okay. So I got a rebuilt alternator for $10.. by the time I go through all the song and dance..getting the proper sprocket. God only knows how much torque and RPM..it might be...So I dont really want to weld it..YET...i tried it...it works..but the 12V to rotor is hit and miss..becuase if you leave it connected...it gets more magnetgy.lmao I mean MORE TORUE...less RPM...sometimes it starts..other times it dosnt. FU$k it...I spent $60 on a 1000 watt Brushed.I assure you it's bigger than that damn alternator...with BRUSHES.lol (48V) Im a cheap bastard..I got an MX500 for $20...it came with ESC,36v batteries, breaks, pinon ( sprocket)...axle sprocket. It'll do 15 mph...the bike is a BRICK. I have rear sprocket from e 300 ( smaller)..for the crazy RMP on 12" powerwheels...35 lb contraption..for a 35lb kid. Hope fully it'll stay under 15 mph.lmao little kids can do 30 mph on e300...on 36v 10" OD tires ( 350 watt).lmao
I have one of those batteries and I think, if I'm not mistaken, I have 2 of those controller boxes that I picked up at a pallet bin store. Now I'll have to dig them out and see if they are the same thing you have there. I have plans for the battery though. I'm going to use it for my TS100 soldering iron so I can use it portable.
The car battery is actually connected to the ROTOR via the brushes....the stator houses the three windings commutated by the controller. Other than that great video.
@@fakhrinshamsudin5713 the voltage is governed by the controller. You have to provide the specific voltage given by the controller specifications. A lower voltage meas you need a 12v brushless driver, which may struggle sincce it needs to handle a greater current, that's why a higher voltage is used, to lower the current on the controller. If you mean 36v to the rotor brushes you can, but you will have a highly magnetised rotor which the driver may not be able to turn. The torque given is partially governed by the rotor current, so you must give enough current to meet the torque needed, and no more. A variable current driver is typically used to alter the magnetic field but that adds complexity. Best to just use 12v as it was desined for 12v by the alternator manufacturers.
Would simplify considerably if you could recommend a SPECIFIC alternator to convert ie, the "single wire" GM then go thru the process for doing so. Also, I am interested in building an eBike that would be best suited to left hand drive, the opposite primary rotation as this one. Great vid my man, thorough and well-explained. I'm sub'd and very much look forward to more of the same quality videos. Call me weird but THIS is my idea of entertainment!!
Hey what did you ha e the rotor connect to? I'm currently trying to figure out how I power the rotor from the same supply or if I get a second supply to power it separately from the stator
Hei can you tell me how many magnet poles your alternator has n and s. because i have a controller similar to your controller do you know minimum and maximum number of magnet controller can handle
Two questions: 1) I don't see any hall-sensor wires from the alternator. Does the speed ontroller use back EMF to time the pulses, or is it simply unnessacary to have have hall-sensors or back EMF to controll the motor? Also: I have a speed controller that looks like the one you are using, although I don't know if it supports back EMF reading, can I still use it to controll an altenator? 2) How much current does the rotor require (the brushes), and how can know how much current my alternator requires? Also: Are you using any resistors to limit the current from the battery, and if you don't, will it not short ciruit?
I'm testing the alternator with a multimeter and the negative and positive where you connect the 12v battery in your video, has a resistance of .001 to .002, is that normal?
@@foxxyytofficial Hi man. Please link me up with a UA-camr who has experimented with varying voltages and Ampere's going to the rotor of the hybrid ( alternator). Thanks man
From the research I have done higher voltage to field means greater magnetic field strength and hence greater torque. However there is less rpm as there's a tradeoff between torque and speed for a given power output
A similar generator pushes my car with a driver and a passenger. I like it. I also like to make interesting projects, one of which I do on my UA-cam channel
I really like this video. Thanks for the tips. I'd like to replicate this. But what bugs me is; What happens if I increase the amperage going to the rotor? Will the torque of the hybrid increase? Or is that a bad idea?
Please, can you make a video or explain to me on how to use ebike controller for dc fridge. I have BD350GH DC compressor without control board, and can't find it board. I need help, please.
I'm trying to find why my set up is not working. I believe it's cause I have a sensored motor controller. No where does it say that except the HALL SENSOR lead. Yours doesn't seem to use the sensor lead? So some of these motor controllers don't use hall sensors though the lead is there? And il be looking for a sensorless controller now as installing sensors inside the alternator isn't real eAsy.
MadeEasy my throttle has same coloured wires. On researching I found some controllers are sensorless. They don't use hall wires. I'd say mine needs those wires. It does say " angle 120 degrees" on case
Actually the alternator before the voltage regulator. In hi speed the AC voltage its become 30V or 36V. Because of the hi speed and hi frequency. The voltage become hi. After regulator the voltage output from the regulator it's DC 14V for the charging car battery.. From Malaysia here. 😁. Sorry if my English not good.
About the wires connection from electronic speed controller to alternator; could you please tell me which color of wire to attach with A, B and C (green, yellow and blue)?
Hi I have just converted my alt to a motor all looks good my motor controller is a 24/36 v 350 w brushless when I hook everything my motor will not turn? can you help me Rick
Note that "stator" == "part of the motor that doesn't move" while "rotor" == "part of the motor that rotates". Almost every single video I've seen for these alternator conversions makes that mistake. The *rotor* contains the electromagnet, and, well, *rotates*. The *stator* remains *static*, and doesn't rotate.
sir, good morning afternoon evening. belated merry christmas and belated happy new year. may ask you, can the 3 phase controller can be use on a two wires motor? thanks and Godbless
@@RIKOARIshowreel it will take away more power from the battery and make it drain faster. It's best to limit the power going to the rotor so the battery lasts longer
@@MadeEasyChannel it all depends if the motor control is dual sensor and sensorless if it was sensor type it wouldn't work requires hall sensors for position (timing) for current flow on individual coils in a crude explanation
Man I was waiting for that positive wire to short out on that potentiometer it was sitting right next to his little jumper wire I thought maybe it was going to go poof
How do you charge the lithium battery, is there a way to make something that just plugs in to an AC standard outlet or do you need to charge it with a lithium charger everytime
IMHO, the Part in the middle of the MOTOR alternator that has the shaft on it is the ROTOR which has two copper round surfaces which the brushes make contact with, this is called the slip ring. The stator is the laminations which has enameled copper wound through it.. seems that you were calling both STATOR..
I did work in the alternator dept at Ford Rawsonville Ypsilanti MI in the 60s. They made 38 42 and 60 amp small frame alternators and I believe in the 70s started making Large frame alternators which had much more current and had built in voltage regulators. The earlier alternators from the 60s had external voltage regulators...
All the information you are sharing is GREAT thanks for sharing, very interesting to me. Keep it up you are doing well!
How do you connect it with six wire alternator
Thanks. You helped a lot. I had a cable marked "Door lock" that needed to be connected to a positive DC for it to work.
Regarding automobile alternators: The rotor is the bit that rotates. The stator is the bit that does not rotate. It is stationary. There are one or two exceptions but they are not applicable in the configuration described above.
you prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me
@Kaleb Reign instablaster =)
@Isaias Jeremy Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Isaias Jeremy It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
@Kaleb Reign Happy to help xD
This is the most complete video on these topics I've seen. You include the alternator mod, the field current control, AND how to hook it up to a controller. Beautiful well-edited vid. The only suggestion I can make is to update the links to eBay to make them more robust. The alternator ones still work as of Aug 2022, but the rest of them fail. Also, in the descriptions before the links, if you add more detail, we can search ourselves even if the links break. I know I'm nitpicking -- this is still an excellent vid and the best I've seen.
0:38 this is the rotor/field winding a.k.a electromagnet hence only two leads. The stator is the three windings excited alternately through the controller to provide a rotating magnetic field
Yes I agree, he mixed them up in his description and it confused me. So really I guess he meant 12V to the armature and the 36 to the stator.
Cool project, thanks for sharing
👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video Bro.
I noticed you kept calling the the middle part a stator, later relizrd you meant rotor Bro
Reverse direction of rotation by;
a) swapping 2 of the STATOR windings [changes the direction of the rotating 3 phase field] e.g. change from ABC to ACB ... OR
b) the polarity connection to the ROTOR [changes the magnetic polarity of the rotor]. e.g. simply swap connection at battery.
You may need to do this if gearing, pully or propeller configuration the direction is wrong.
That machine will take higher voltage you know, especially on the rotor, BUT limit rotor current no matter what voltage applied.
a 2000 WATT BLM is only $75-$90...With the SPROCKET.lol
Okay. So I got a rebuilt alternator for $10..
by the time I go through all the song and dance..getting the proper sprocket.
God only knows how much torque and RPM..it might be...So I dont really
want to weld it..YET...i tried it...it works..but the 12V to rotor is
hit and miss..becuase if you leave it connected...it gets more magnetgy.lmao
I mean MORE TORUE...less RPM...sometimes it starts..other times it dosnt.
FU$k it...I spent $60 on a 1000 watt Brushed.I assure you it's bigger
than that damn alternator...with BRUSHES.lol (48V)
Im a cheap bastard..I got an MX500 for $20...it came with ESC,36v batteries,
breaks, pinon ( sprocket)...axle sprocket. It'll do 15 mph...the bike is a BRICK.
I have rear sprocket from e 300 ( smaller)..for the crazy RMP on 12" powerwheels...35 lb contraption..for a 35lb kid.
Hope fully it'll stay under 15 mph.lmao
little kids can do 30 mph on e300...on 36v 10" OD tires ( 350 watt).lmao
What do you think the rotor current should be limited to?
I have one of those batteries and I think, if I'm not mistaken, I have 2 of those controller boxes that I picked up at a pallet bin store. Now I'll have to dig them out and see if they are the same thing you have there. I have plans for the battery though. I'm going to use it for my TS100 soldering iron so I can use it portable.
great video, you explaining well!
it also reverses the polarity on the excitation coil when you reverse the direction and it will have the speed in the opposite direction as well
thanks for video
If you need it to spin faster in the other direction you have to reverse your A and C esc motor wires .
The car battery is actually connected to the ROTOR via the brushes....the stator houses the three windings commutated by the controller. Other than that great video.
36V battery can be swap with lower voltage battery?
@@fakhrinshamsudin5713 the voltage is governed by the controller. You have to provide the specific voltage given by the controller specifications. A lower voltage meas you need a 12v brushless driver, which may struggle sincce it needs to handle a greater current, that's why a higher voltage is used, to lower the current on the controller. If you mean 36v to the rotor brushes you can, but you will have a highly magnetised rotor which the driver may not be able to turn. The torque given is partially governed by the rotor current, so you must give enough current to meet the torque needed, and no more. A variable current driver is typically used to alter the magnetic field but that adds complexity. Best to just use 12v as it was desined for 12v by the alternator manufacturers.
@@mo7217 tqvm for the answer, so the best is to use 36v for stator and 12V for the brushes?
@@fakhrinshamsudin5713 yes that's correct. You don't have to, but it's a good combination
@@mo7217 can u suggest other combinations? What knowledge do i need to know regarding the voltage combination? Any reference? Or website to read? Tq
THANKS FOR KNOWLEDGE SIR YOU ARE RIYALI GREAT THANKS AGAIN HARE KRISHNA
Would simplify considerably if you could recommend a SPECIFIC alternator to convert ie, the "single wire" GM then go thru the process for doing so. Also, I am interested in building an eBike that would be best suited to left hand drive, the opposite primary rotation as this one.
Great vid my man, thorough and well-explained. I'm sub'd and very much look forward to more of the same quality videos. Call me weird but THIS is my idea of entertainment!!
Good job with the potentiometer, I'll try with my 250w esc! Thanks
i wonder if i can use some of those 36v electric lawn mower batteries maybe 2 or 3 of those would be good for a small gocart
How much current goes into the rotor field winding (how much power are you taking from the 12 V battery)?
Can you use the 12 v light plug off of the controller?
instead of the car battery, couldn't you just hook up to one of the other outputs from the controller?
Should be able to ditch the stator battery use a relay output to excite the magnetic field, 2 to 3 amp
what is the voltage to the armature brush winding you din't mention those two wires
Have you measured the RPM and the torque? It would be nice to know those values. Good work !
Here is this link to RPM test
ua-cam.com/video/ZSPhQ6S199k/v-deo.html
Fordítás magyarra
Kérem
you can use the 5volt of the controller to power the coil, no need for extra 12v battery. looking forward when it is in the go cart already..
Hey what did you ha e the rotor connect to? I'm currently trying to figure out how I power the rotor from the same supply or if I get a second supply to power it separately from the stator
so if you don't use extra batteries car speed aren't like that right, if you only use Hoverboard batteries?
hi! con you use just one 12v batt for everything?
Which might be the best controller for 40 amp alternator? A cheap one.
Good job
Awesome!
Hei can you tell me how many magnet poles your alternator has n and s. because i have a controller similar to your controller do you know minimum and maximum number of magnet controller can handle
Two questions:
1) I don't see any hall-sensor wires from the alternator. Does the speed ontroller use back EMF to time the pulses, or is it simply unnessacary to have have hall-sensors or back EMF to controll the motor? Also: I have a speed controller that looks like the one you are using, although I don't know if it supports back EMF reading, can I still use it to controll an altenator?
2) How much current does the rotor require (the brushes), and how can know how much current my alternator requires? Also: Are you using any resistors to limit the current from the battery, and if you don't, will it not short ciruit?
Edit: I see question 1) has been asked and answered already.
Try reversing the 12v feed when reversing the 36v supply
How do I tell which wire from the alternator wire ( a,b,c) to match the yellow, blue, green (a,b,c) on my controller?
I need to know where I can get the controller
Please how do I get the exact speed controller the one I got is not high enough
Where did you purchase the speed controller
I apshed your explain thank you for
I'm testing the alternator with a multimeter and the negative and positive where you connect the 12v battery in your video, has a resistance of .001 to .002, is that normal?
Yes, all it is it's a coil of wire.
When you apply voltage it makes it an electromagnet
@@MadeEasyChannel ok thanks 👍
Are you using a sensor-less motor speed controller?
Can i apply ac power to the state or it has to be voltage in dc?
Do you ever experiment with the field coil voltage, and its effects on motor speed?
i know other youtubers tested it
@@foxxyytofficial yup... I was wondering if he had. Or even knew about it...
@@foxxyytofficial Hi man. Please link me up with a UA-camr who has experimented with varying voltages and Ampere's going to the rotor of the hybrid ( alternator). Thanks man
ua-cam.com/video/VgGDq8F8Zx8/v-deo.html
From the research I have done higher voltage to field means greater magnetic field strength and hence greater torque. However there is less rpm as there's a tradeoff between torque and speed for a given power output
A similar generator pushes my car with a driver and a passenger. I like it. I also like to make interesting projects, one of which I do on my UA-cam channel
I will watch it and subscribe
Great information l love it thanks.. great work..
Is it the alternator 12V?
its a help,,,make a vid for starter as a ebike motor
Cant work continous
So cool
Why you need two batteries if you can use a buck converter with the 36v battery to get 12v for the rotor?
I like it thanks it helps me , make more videos...
I really like this video.
Thanks for the tips.
I'd like to replicate this. But what bugs me is; What happens if I increase the amperage going to the rotor? Will the torque of the hybrid increase? Or is that a bad idea?
Please, can you make a video or explain to me on how to use ebike controller for dc fridge. I have BD350GH DC compressor without control board, and can't find it board.
I need help, please.
thank u for sharing... what is the max rpm?
I'm trying to find why my set up is not working. I believe it's cause I have a sensored motor controller. No where does it say that except the HALL SENSOR lead. Yours doesn't seem to use the sensor lead?
So some of these motor controllers don't use hall sensors though the lead is there? And il be looking for a sensorless controller now as installing sensors inside the alternator isn't real eAsy.
Do you have the two red wires connected to positive?
MadeEasy yes. Hooked up same as yours.
@@barsixful what about the throttle? My wires were different color then what was in the diagram.
MadeEasy my throttle has same coloured wires. On researching I found some controllers are sensorless. They don't use hall wires. I'd say mine needs those wires. It does say " angle 120 degrees" on case
MadeEasy . I have found a dual mode controller .sensor And sensorless. So it has a hall wire. Can I get the details of your controller? Thanks
Power the stator with less voltage in the RPM will be better. A 3.7 lipo will work fine but, 2 1.5 volt Double A's wired in series is even better.
Is there a way to connect both the alternator and the controller with one battery?
What the alternaror is can to start engine ?
So a 12V alternator will work and not destroy itself if you use a 36V controller?
Actually the alternator before the voltage regulator. In hi speed the AC voltage its become 30V or 36V. Because of the hi speed and hi frequency. The voltage become hi. After regulator the voltage output from the regulator it's DC 14V for the charging car battery.. From Malaysia here. 😁. Sorry if my English not good.
@@errolyapp4286 Thank you for telling me
Hi brother u can help me and tell me where I find the control speed 1000w
good job
Please tell me the controller model name
how to conect IC alternator 12v Toyota Denso to controling e bike
About the wires connection from electronic speed controller to alternator; could you please tell me which color of wire to attach with A, B and C (green, yellow and blue)?
A B C wires going to the Alternator can be wired randomly
@@MadeEasyChannel Thank you so much
@@MadeEasyChannel I have Mercedes car battery, do you think I can use it instead of the 36 V battery?
right a massive battery. can you use a 12v lithium pack?
Yes. The rotor actually will work with low as 5v. The speed controller is what needs 36v
whay to jamper hall sensor?
What is the throttle control resistance (ohms) please inform me my friend
50k potentiometer
I like your channel a lot, can you show me something similar to this but with 38volt motor with only two wires coming out, thank you.
Plz explain me alternator winding is oregnel dealta or star
Thanks.
Good work, how do you know which is A B C on the motor
There isn't an only way to know the phases
Just need to know if the alternator feels "happier" in ckockwise or counterclockwise
@@foxxyytofficial Thanks, I did hook mine up and all is good
Awesome
is the an efficiency curve graph for this yet?
In RCGroups there is a efficiency chart
Is it a problem when the hall sensor does not open?
I did the same thing but it doesn't work for me because of the hall sensors plug
what powers the brushes. i,m a newbie.
12v battery
Hi I have just converted my alt to a motor all looks good my motor controller is a 24/36 v 350 w brushless when I hook everything my motor will not turn? can you help me Rick
Do you have email to show videos about your setup?
Note that "stator" == "part of the motor that doesn't move" while "rotor" == "part of the motor that rotates". Almost every single video I've seen for these alternator conversions makes that mistake. The *rotor* contains the electromagnet, and, well, *rotates*. The *stator* remains *static*, and doesn't rotate.
Hello can u send the sketch of wiring connection and other parts like battery controler how to make this plz send the sketch all
sir, good morning afternoon evening. belated merry christmas and belated happy new year. may ask you, can the 3 phase controller can be use on a two wires motor? thanks and Godbless
no
Do you mean a DC motor ?
Bia tarde.Qual é a potência e voltagem desse controlador ?
creio que ele está usando 36V, mas alguns alternadores aceitam até 72V
Ele disse 1500w de 36v à 48v...é um controlador bem comum de achar
How much amount this is
Can we have 1 battery setup for both controller and motor?
i.e. 36v for both of them.
Nice video btw. 👍
Yes, but 36v is too much for the alternator core.. you would need to step down the voltage down to 12v or less.
MadeEasy thanks for the reply. What could happen if we’d still go that way? (without a DC step down)
@@RIKOARIshowreel it will take away more power from the battery and make it drain faster. It's best to limit the power going to the rotor so the battery lasts longer
MadeEasy noted. Thanks mate.
if reverse is slow, try changing the battery polarity.
what battery?
@@foxxyytofficial that goes to the brushes
❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊
Dont need hall sensors?
You done have to have them to operate the motor
@@MadeEasyChannel it all depends if the motor control is dual sensor and sensorless if it was sensor type it wouldn't work requires hall sensors for position (timing) for current flow on individual coils in a crude explanation
Please tell me how do you charge the battery? And can you make videos or use what?
I bought a 36v charger for the blue battery. It's called a howerboard battery charger
We're can I get a speed controller and the amount
I bought it on eBay, I think I have link in description
I wonder how many horsepower does it produce .. I am thinking in a go kart
Depends on the voltage, current, and if you use hall sensors
Man I was waiting for that positive wire to short out on that potentiometer it was sitting right next to his little jumper wire I thought maybe it was going to go poof
Vorbe multe. Mai mult reclama!.
I tried but won't work.... need to use maybe the hall sensors...
what happens?
These links don’t work
السلام عليكم ورحمة وبركاتهأنا مصر من طنطا محتاج قطعه كنترول مثل هذا لان لايوجد في مصرارجوك وشكرا لك كم سعر ها وكيف احصل عليه ارجوك
جرب موقع بانجود احتمال كبير باتباع هناك
You obviously don't have to go so fast in reverse. If you want to change the direction switch two of the three wires going into the motor.
Are you sure that battery pack is LiPo? I was researching the same batteries and all of the ones I found are LiOn.
Hoverboards uses Li-ion batteries
RC toys, phones/tablets, drones/quadcopters and other electronics uses LiPo
s0hel
Sam the one in the vidoe
I have failed too many times to do that. pls anyone can give me a motor controller?
Their are no another way without controller
You need a controller
Which type of controller is used
@@nserekobrian4108 brushless controllere
Rotor,not stator
But you hide what you did on the carbon brush connection eww
Lies. Cant be done
How do you charge the lithium battery, is there a way to make something that just plugs in to an AC standard outlet or do you need to charge it with a lithium charger everytime