Thanks for good camera work, appropriate emphasis, and sense of progress throughout your video. Already did the water pump before I saw your video, and it needed replacing, but the upper tier of the cooling system was in bad shape as well, so I looked for your wisdom and found it. Thanks for your help. You're good at this.
Great video. When you use RTV and finger tighten, you should wait about an hour until the RTV begins to dry, before torqueing. It will get a better seal as less of it will be squeezed out the sides.
Thanks for his awesome video! I am a computer geek, not a mechanic. I was able to remove and replace the WaterPump gasket, thermostat housing gasket and by pass hose, thanks to you! It wasn't hard at all. Took me about three hours, and the system is tight as a drum now! Thanks Once Again!!
Good job, I'm having a hard time with my in let tube and as a rookie watching you helped me out alot. I hope you make more videos because you made it look easy, thanks again brother.
Just want to say THANKS for posting this video. I don`t think I could have ever finished the job on my 94 Ram had it not been for it. I do have a manual, but it`s just not the same. Nothing like a good step-by-step to take the guess work out of a job, and this one is excellent. Thanks again.
Good video! Wasn't sure how to remove the bypass hose. Your video shows that it is a straight forward project. I always change the clamps, as it would be a pain to have to replace a bad clamp after is is put back together.
Thanks for the tip on the high temp RTV for the heater hose. Put in a new water pump on my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8 with a new O-ring and of course it still leaked after warming up at the water pump quick connect. After pulling the fan and fan shroud a second time, and still getting I am glad there is a solution in sight.
Great thanks for this! I replaced my water pump on my 1997 Dodge Dakota. 5 years later, I thought water pump gave out again, since I am not a mechanic I thought for sure it was the water pump again. So, I bought another one, and everything seemed good, until I took it for a test drive. It was leaking from underneath AC Compressor. Because of this video, now I know that it could be the bypass hose since it has been there since 1997 I am sure it's that. Also, I never knew there was a high temp rtv
Thanks for posting this video! Wish I had seen it years ago when I replaced the bypass and pump. I was able to replace the bypass without Taking off the bracket however it was brutal to say the least. Unfortunately the pump had gone out so seeing this to this job again is a lifesaver! Thank you!
You are super amazing man, you really helped me out with this nice and comprehensive video that explains everything in details really appreciated it . BIG THANKS
I didn't have to take the ac compressor by itself I just took the whole bracket with the alternator and ac compressor to the side held by a piece of wood to the ground and worked great
There is two bolts that hold the whole coolant/windshield wash resevoir in place. Disconect two elect. plugs on the left and a hose by the fill cap. the whole thing comes out to give a lot more room to work. If you leave the serpentine belt on, it will (kinda) hold the pump. Put a large wrench on the fan clutch nut an whack with a BMF hammer counter clockwise. At 6:39, above the alt. you'll see a protective webbing that covers the cruise cont. cable/vac. hose. I had a belt fly apart, and snap the vac. line. At 9:46, instead of removing that nut, look at the other end of the rod by the air duct/ manifold. Nice video, wish I had payed more attention to this prior to my project.
Hey I got to thank you for posting this, this was the most helpful thing I have found to get all this done. I wish I would have found this a little sooner though, I didn't think about a chain wrench to get the fan clutch off.
Thought leak was coming from water pump. I purchased and replaced water pump. When I added radiator fluid without engine running it started leaking from the shroud located by the thermostat. Thanks to your video I was able to successfully diagnose the problem. Tomorrow I'll reinstall everything poor in antifreeze to make sure there are no obvious leeks. If you know the torque specs for the water pump bolts that would be great! Thanks for the video!!
doing my timing chain on my 96 Dakota. think I might go out and buy one of those "vice grip chain" tools, my fan nut doesn't want to budge. been soaking it in pb blaster for a week....awesome video and thanks for posting!
Thank you guys for the easy informative video, you made it easy as I was always scared from this terrible bypass till it actually started leaking. Did the job myself after watching the video and everything is fine. Just the ac compressor stopped working .. for some reason no power coming to the socket .. now am trying to figure it out .. fuse and relay are OK.. I'll check the socket wiring .. wish me luck.
Thanks for the help....I have the same engine, getting ready to change water pump and thermostat, bypass hose. I only plan on going in once. Also tap water mixed with coolant can cause corrosion build up. I use 50/50 coolant. Thanks for the rtv tip
One think I did that made sense to me was to replace the thermostat housing bolts with studs. I did this primarily because I was ONLY replacing the radiator and top and bottom hoses, so the studs made it much easier to mount the thermostat housing is such a limited amount of space.
Awesome tip! That's something I never thought of and it would help in so many other common maintenance areas! Im going to add studs to my hardware supplies. Thanks for commenting!
Great Job..I have a '93 dakota and I'm sure I have the same problem But I also herd some rataling noise it sounds like it could be comming from a pulley or maybe the water pump..But It does look like mine is leaking from that area,,,Thanks again Dan!!!
I have a 89 Dakota and I’ve had nothing but coolant problems and leaks first we had to replace the water pump then the radiator then the thermostat 3 separate times and now I am on the bypass hose so I learned whenever you do the water pump just go ahead and replace the bypass hose
Great video here, learned a lot. Question for you, I have water leaking on the backside of the engine almost right above the oil pan, and I can’t figure out what it’s leaking from. Both my water hoses seem fine no leaking from the water pump, do you have any suggestions?
Water is tricky, it always finds odd ways to flow, the bypass hose would often leak down the backside of the engine If you checked the bypass hose already, then how about the heater hoses going through the firewall?
If indeed lubricant might spill out of the fan bearings, I don't see why a person couldn't take the opportunity to drain it, perhaps flush it with an appropriate chemical, and refill it with new lube. Is there any online info regarding this? Or is this just taking fluid & lube fanaticism too far??
The fan clutch bearings can not be serviced and as for laying it down and fluid leaking out or whatever it doesn't make any damn sense, how many times do you think a new one being shipped all over the country to your local store flips rolls and tossed around the delivery truck and the store, why do they not all leak out some fluid and get trashed for leaking, someone let me know if they have ever seen a fan clutch leak lmfao
This is one great video! I am ready to tackle the job now. My 1500 page repair manual was unclear on how to change the bypass hose. Still trying to figure out how to get the pulley off the pump. Does it unscrew? The repair manual says it has bolts but it does not, it looks just like the pulley in the video.
Some of the rtvs are fast to dry others aren't. If you have time .. leave it for half day before adding fluids and starting the truck. It's always better.
I imagine that if it gets bad enough it might spray around, in my case it was a slow leak so the indication was antifreeze laying on the front of the engine My guess is that it's the lower hose on the radiator Is it over heating?
Well I took off everything like you did on the video, and it turns out that bypass hose was pretty much cut right where the clamp was. So now that I replaced that, and added High Temp RTV to new thermostat and new housing, no more leaks! One question though. Does it take a while sometimes before the thermostat opens up and the temperature reads at normal 200? Right now I took it for a short cruise, and gauge was at the mark above 200. Do I have to cruise longer for thermostat to open?
Question: Why would you not remove the window washer fluid/coolant reservoir assembly to make more room? Only two bolts, two electrical connections and one hose. Just asking.
+Albert Head Definitely the way to go. Gives you a LOT more room to work. Only trick is to have a rubber cap ready to put over the washer pump outlet, so the fluid doesn't drain out through the pump. Disconnect the radiator overflow hose at the filler neck.and keep hose end above the tank level to prevent it from draining. Then just the 2 electrical plugs (washer pump and washer fluid level sensor), and 2 10mm bolts hold the whole mess in.will give you and extra 6" of room. important when doing a water pump, because you need to get the gasket surfaces on the block CLEAN, and a brass wire cup brush on a drill does a great job, but needs good access.
Looks like you could have just left the AC pump connected to the bracket. Just unfasten the brace bolt and unplug the electrical connector. Eh maybe I'm wrong.
Would a clogged Heater Core cause engine to overheat? I replaced Thermostat and put new fluid in - It worked fine then occasionally I need to rev engine hard and then I get heat and engine temp goes to normal. Kind of scary commuting to work in -22 in rural country. -Thanks
Kelly Longtine Considering that 50/50 mix antifreeze (anti-boil) mixes are created with distilled water, you will not have a problem with scaling and lime build-up in your radiator. (Always avoid using water hose refills, especially from well water sources. If you don't have a 50/50 mix, use distilled water from any grocery store or pharmacy. DO NOT USE bottled water. Most of those get their flavor from wells with a high lime and calcium content.) Having said that, the cheapest part, your thermostat, is the weakest point in the link. I recommend changing it at least every 30,000 miles. It takes very little time; Permaseal and Loctite both make a nice gasket maker that I like to spread on the paper gasket the thermostat comes with. Torque it properly and replace any and all hose clamps. I recommend the same for the upper radiator cooling hose: Seriously, they are pieces of crap and are a poor replacement for metal tubes. Check out Summit Racing for a rock-solid replacement. Also, and trust me on this, if your vehicle is at or over 60,000 miles, replace that thermal clutch fan; especially if you live in a predominately hot area, like Southern California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, etc. Good luck, and always check your torque!
after replacing the water pump on my dodge ram 1500, i now have a leak that comes from one of the bolt holes. i had 4 long bolts and 4 short bolts. the leak is coming from one of the long bolt holes. i didnt think it mattered which long bolt went where as long as it fit. does it matter? maybe i should have used some RTV sealer right?
Unfortunately that could be anything from a cracked cover to a defective gasket, are you sure it's coming from the bolt and not running down from somewhere else, if it is you might try a New bolt and torque it. Hopefully it's that simple. Good Luck
Umm , step #1 missing ... DISCONNECT battery cable 1st (or run risk of shorting out charging and/or ignition system) (you know that BIG nasty spark when you short out a hot wire and wonder how many fuses and relays you just blew up , lol) ...
Typically you Don't want to put anything on the thermostat gasket or seal, it could actually prevent it from sealing. Unless there is major damage to sealing surface (replacement is better in this case anyway)
My local Napa. My other suggestion is to go to a dodge parts site that has the reference diagrams. Then use that part number to cross reference (or just order the mopar part, prices are "somewhat" more reasonable on the web)
Nothing lasts for ever man i have own Ford, Chevrolet, Nissan, Toyota any car truck will have issues sooner or later ur comment made you sound like a 10 year old kid smh hahahahaha
I have a 2002 dodge ram 1500 van 5.9L engine. My thermostat is stuck in the closed position. Is it completely necessary to remove all those components to get to the thermostat. I'm not confident in putting all the components back on properly. Any advice other then taking to someone I must pay to do it
I have a 5.9L 2000 dakota, my suction/discharge hose is leaking but I cannot find it as it seems to be a discontinued part. They have other years and even the 2000 4.7L hose but not mine. It all looks the same as yours here, it is the forward most A/C line connected to the compressor and resting at the top, behind the radiator. With that black ribbed shroud on it. Does anyone know if there is a hose compatible with the 2000 5.9? The 2001 5.9? Since this Magnum engine was 'the same' until 2003. Firestone, rockauto, autozone, oreilleys, nobody seems to know what I can do (other than a junkyard, then its hit or miss if it is leaking or not). Anybody?
I have a 2000 dodge grandcaravan 3.0L , when I am driving for a while I notice smoke coming from under the hood... when I lift up the hood I see antifreeze squirting from the thermostat housing unit, what does this mean?? any help.. I know nothing about cars. I am a female. please help me, I already got the hose replaced!
my dakota is not circulating water the top hose get really hot and has a lot of pressure It's not leaking anywhere and the water pump don't seem to be bad any ideas?
I have a 92 Dodge Dakota with the 3.9L V6 it gushes coolant everytime I start it. So I'm Assuming it's the water pump because nothings coming from radiator or hoses and I changed the thermostat forgot the high heat stuff do I have to repoll everything to put that stuff on
Also, thermostats are probably the cheapest car part there is. I've read that the defect rate straight off the shelf is as much as %50 no matter who makes them
So the year of Dakota in this video is why you removed the ac compressor and alternator? Didn't have to do this on my son-in-laws. Left them in place water pump bolts not interfering with removal!!
Yes, that is what was so frustrating at first, I couldn't figure out where it was coming from until i started looking at the diagrams and tracing all the connections, then I realized where it was hiding
Yes, that is what was so frustrating at first, I couldn't figure out where it was coming from until i started looking at the diagrams and tracing all the connections, then I realized where it was hiding
Okay, had to stop when you put a wrench on the tensioner. Now, let's assume your vehicle is shut off and your keys are in your pocket. Great. Let's say that you drop a nut, bolt, or wrench and it lands on the starter, causing a short. Boom, your motor turns over and you are hands, arms, and face inside a now-running motor. It takes ten seconds to unbolt the positive terminal from the battery and provide you with an added level of safety. Assuming that just because people at oil change businesses do it all day long doesn't mean it's a safe way to work on a vehicle, and when I myself worked at a lube shop and changed belts, I insisted on disconnecting the positive terminal until the belt(s) and housing were replaced. Please stay safe and in one piece out there: Even a great surgeon can only do so much, and you'll never be as good as you were if you need something reattached.
TombstoneLizard I stated on my comment that you should remove the positive cable first. ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! The ground/negative cable should ALWAYS come OFF first; and the positive should always be PUT ON first. I humbly apologize for stating that improperly in my earlier comment. Working to remove the positive cable while the negative is still attached is a great way to cause an accidental short with your wrench, and knock the hell out of yourself or ruin electronic equipment. Such a spark around gasoline or other flammable fumes ups the danger factor exponentially. Again, my humble apologies for stating the order of battery cable removal improperly. There is far more chance of hurting yourself doing THAT wrong then there is the chance of actually dropping something to short out on the starter.
maybe someone on here can help me i have 97 Dodge Dakota 3.9 Liter V6 i'm spraying antifreeze all over but can't find the leak does anyone have an idea if i could of blew a a line have a pin size leak in one of the hoses or worse the water pump could of gave out any suggestions would be helpful thank you
ahhhh the hidden bolt behind the pulley! Thanks mreinsmith for pointing that one out!
Glad to help, thanks for commenting
Without a doubt the best car repair video I have seen on UA-cam!
Good camera job!! Explained very well!! One of the best I've ever seen!! I'll definitely subscribe and follow.
Much appreciated, glad it helped
This is exactly the video I was looking for. I love how detailed you are. Thank you so much!
Thanks for good camera work, appropriate emphasis, and sense of progress throughout your video. Already did the water pump before I saw your video, and it needed replacing, but the upper tier of the cooling system was in bad shape as well, so I looked for your wisdom and found it. Thanks for your help. You're good at this.
Great video. When you use RTV and finger tighten, you should wait about an hour until the RTV begins to dry, before torqueing. It will get a better seal as less of it will be squeezed out the sides.
Good tip, thanks for commenting!
thank you sir for this video. as a UA-cam trained mechanic I seriously appreciate it. had a leak and got it done.
Thanks for his awesome video! I am a computer geek, not a mechanic.
I was able to remove and replace the WaterPump gasket, thermostat housing gasket and by pass hose, thanks to you!
It wasn't hard at all. Took me about three hours, and the system is tight as a drum now!
Thanks Once Again!!
Good job, I'm having a hard time with my in let tube and as a rookie watching you helped me out alot. I hope you make more videos because you made it look easy, thanks again brother.
thanks, glad to hear it helped
Great instructional video, at least now I can do my water pump replacement without blindly jumping into it! Thanks for sharing!!
Just want to say THANKS for posting this video. I don`t think I could have ever finished the job on my 94 Ram had it not been for it. I do have a manual, but it`s just not the same. Nothing like a good step-by-step to take the guess work out of a job, and this one is excellent. Thanks again.
very informative. Just did water pump, thermostat, bypass hose for friend. Your video was great. Helped me out alot. Thanks.
That's great! Thanks for the comment
Good video! Wasn't sure how to remove the bypass hose. Your video shows that it is a straight forward project. I always change the clamps, as it would be a pain to have to replace a bad clamp after is is put back together.
You're absolutely right about the clamps. That's a good reminder! Thanks for commenting!
Thanks for the tip on the high temp RTV for the heater hose. Put in a new water pump on my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8 with a new O-ring and of course it still leaked after warming up at the water pump quick connect. After pulling the fan and fan shroud a second time, and still getting I am glad there is a solution in sight.
Great thanks for this! I replaced my water pump on my 1997 Dodge Dakota. 5 years later, I thought water pump gave out again, since I am not a mechanic I thought for sure it was the water pump again. So, I bought another one, and everything seemed good, until I took it for a test drive. It was leaking from underneath AC Compressor. Because of this video, now I know that it could be the bypass hose since it has been there since 1997 I am sure it's that. Also, I never knew there was a high temp rtv
Thanks for posting this video! Wish I had seen it years ago when I replaced the bypass and pump. I was able to replace the bypass without Taking off the bracket however it was brutal to say the least. Unfortunately the pump had gone out so seeing this to this job again is a lifesaver! Thank you!
Bleed the radiator on 98 Dakota 4x4
You are super amazing man, you really helped me out with this nice and comprehensive video that explains everything in details really appreciated it . BIG THANKS
THANK YOU and thank you too camera man great work with the camara and great work with explaining sir.
Glad it was helpful!
I just finished and It work. I Replaced the Return Tube. Hell yeah I am very happy. Thank You guys Again!. Have a wonderful new year's.
It's a great feeling when you get something like that fixed, very glad I could help. Happy new year to you as well
Excellent video
Thanks!
I have the same truck as you I think, 01 Dakota 3.9 sport and this video was EXTREMELY helpful. Appreciate the time you took in doing this for us.
Wat is the sinser on the left side of the heater hose?
Thank you for this video, just replaced the bypass hose, didn’t take off the fan
Excellent video. This helped me to perform this service on my 97 Dakota. Thanks for going into all of the details.
Awesome thanks for commenting
I didn't have to take the ac compressor by itself I just took the whole bracket with the alternator and ac compressor to the side held by a piece of wood to the ground and worked great
There is two bolts that hold the whole coolant/windshield wash resevoir in place. Disconect two elect. plugs on the left and a hose by the fill cap. the whole thing comes out to give a lot more room to work. If you leave the serpentine belt on, it will (kinda) hold the pump. Put a large wrench on the fan clutch nut an whack with a BMF hammer counter clockwise. At 6:39, above the alt. you'll see a protective webbing that covers the cruise cont. cable/vac. hose. I had a belt fly apart, and snap the vac. line. At 9:46, instead of removing that nut, look at the other end of the rod by the air duct/ manifold. Nice video, wish I had payed more attention to this prior to my project.
Great tips, thanks for chipping in!
Hey I got to thank you for posting this, this was the most helpful thing I have found to get all this done. I wish I would have found this a little sooner though, I didn't think about a chain wrench to get the fan clutch off.
Thought leak was coming from water pump. I purchased and replaced water pump. When I added radiator fluid without engine running it started leaking from the shroud located by the thermostat. Thanks to your video I was able to successfully diagnose the problem. Tomorrow I'll reinstall everything poor in antifreeze to make sure there are no obvious leeks. If you know the torque specs for the water pump bolts that would be great! Thanks for the video!!
Thanks for your video.It shows the whole process.Save time and done right.
doing my timing chain on my 96 Dakota. think I might go out and buy one of those "vice grip chain" tools, my fan nut doesn't want to budge. been soaking it in pb blaster for a week....awesome video and thanks for posting!
Thank you guys for the easy informative video, you made it easy as I was always scared from this terrible bypass till it actually started leaking. Did the job myself after watching the video and everything is fine. Just the ac compressor stopped working .. for some reason no power coming to the socket .. now am trying to figure it out .. fuse and relay are OK.. I'll check the socket wiring .. wish me luck.
yeah thanks for the vid man. i followed it step by step to fix all these issues on my 2002..
WHOOO!
Thanks you for posting this video, it gave me the knowhow to fix a leak in my bypass hose. Thanks again!!!
Thanks for the help....I have the same engine, getting ready to change water pump and thermostat, bypass hose. I only plan on going in once. Also tap water mixed with coolant can cause corrosion build up. I use 50/50 coolant. Thanks for the rtv tip
Great video. Helped me through a tough job.
Great vídeo , not like many others this is very detailed
One think I did that made sense to me was to replace the thermostat housing bolts with studs. I did this primarily because I was ONLY replacing the radiator and top and bottom hoses, so the studs made it much easier to mount the thermostat housing is such a limited amount of space.
Awesome tip! That's something I never thought of and it would help in so many other common maintenance areas! Im going to add studs to my hardware supplies. Thanks for commenting!
Glad this helped you.
what do mean ? changed from the bolts to studs ? non pointed tips ?
I thought this project would be a nightmare and your video proved me right. Gonna do it myself anyway. Thanks for the video.
Yep, it was a PIA to find the cause too
We got it fixed though. Your video was a tremendous help. Thanks again.
glad it helped
Thank you! This video was very helpful!
that was a great video, thanks for the upload.
I did noticed you had a 20 psi on you cap most all call for a 16! just a thought.
wow, good eye! I don't THINK I ever replaced that (can't be sure) any chance it's different on the V6?
@@mreinsmith not sure, but I'd get a new one.
Awesome video, thanks for the post.
Great Job..I have a '93 dakota and I'm sure I have the same problem But I also herd some rataling noise it sounds like it could be comming from a pulley or maybe the water pump..But It does look like mine is leaking from that area,,,Thanks again Dan!!!
Check your tensioner pulley and your idler pulley (the one between the A/C and Alternator
great Video! what motor is this? I need to replace the bypass hose on my 94
I have a 89 Dakota and I’ve had nothing but coolant problems and leaks first we had to replace the water pump then the radiator then the thermostat 3 separate times and now I am on the bypass hose so I learned whenever you do the water pump just go ahead and replace the bypass hose
Great video here, learned a lot. Question for you, I have water leaking on the backside of the engine almost right above the oil pan, and I can’t figure out what it’s leaking from. Both my water hoses seem fine no leaking from the water pump, do you have any suggestions?
Water is tricky, it always finds odd ways to flow, the bypass hose would often leak down the backside of the engine
If you checked the bypass hose already, then how about the heater hoses going through the firewall?
The bypass tube and bypass hose, clamps must all be replaced at same time. Thermostat housing as well with new gasket and zero silicone should be used
If indeed lubricant might spill out of the fan bearings, I don't see why a person couldn't take the opportunity to drain it, perhaps flush it with an appropriate chemical, and refill it with new lube. Is there any online info regarding this? Or is this just taking fluid & lube fanaticism too far??
As an afterthought, I'd probably be enough of a fanatic to service the fan bearings, too.
The fan clutch bearings can not be serviced and as for laying it down and fluid leaking out or whatever it doesn't make any damn sense, how many times do you think a new one being shipped all over the country to your local store flips rolls and tossed around the delivery truck and the store, why do they not all leak out some fluid and get trashed for leaking, someone let me know if they have ever seen a fan clutch leak lmfao
Thanks for this post it is so helpful and by the way my Dakota is a 2003
i have a 2001 v6 3.9L. is this still the same procedure? Thanks this is very helpful tutorial.
This is one great video! I am ready to tackle the job now. My 1500 page repair manual was unclear on how to change the bypass hose. Still trying to figure out how to get the pulley off the pump. Does it unscrew? The repair manual says it has bolts but it does not, it looks just like the pulley in the video.
IF YOU RUN THE MOTOR HOT ENOUGH TO OPEN THE THERMOSTAT SHOULD YOU BE ABLE TO SEE THE ANTIFREEZE CIRCULATING
When using the RTV did you wait any amount of time for curing or did you just put it together and turn the truck on?
Some of the rtvs are fast to dry others aren't. If you have time .. leave it for half day before adding fluids and starting the truck. It's always better.
Just pull the alternator undo small hose beside thermostat unbolt thermostat and remove that's what I did
Good tip, thanks
Thank you guys
great video thank you for doing it
Not sure if you still check this but, was the leak pouring into the fan and spraying it everywhere?
I imagine that if it gets bad enough it might spray around, in my case it was a slow leak so the indication was antifreeze laying on the front of the engine
My guess is that it's the lower hose on the radiator
Is it over heating?
Thanks for the info!
The fluid flows into the bearing then contamination occurs causing premature failure.
Well I took off everything like you did on the video, and it turns out that bypass hose was pretty much cut right where the clamp was. So now that I replaced that, and added High Temp RTV to new thermostat and new housing, no more leaks! One question though. Does it take a while sometimes before the thermostat opens up and the temperature reads at normal 200? Right now I took it for a short cruise, and gauge was at the mark above 200. Do I have to cruise longer for thermostat to open?
Question: Why would you not remove the window washer fluid/coolant reservoir assembly to make more room? Only two bolts, two electrical connections and one hose. Just asking.
+Albert Head Definitely the way to go. Gives you a LOT more room to work. Only trick is to have a rubber cap ready to put over the washer pump outlet, so the fluid doesn't drain out through the pump. Disconnect the radiator overflow hose at the filler neck.and keep hose end above the tank level to prevent it from draining. Then just the 2 electrical plugs (washer pump and washer fluid level sensor), and 2 10mm bolts hold the whole mess in.will give you and extra 6" of room. important when doing a water pump, because you need to get the gasket surfaces on the block CLEAN, and a brass wire cup brush on a drill does a great job, but needs good access.
Wanted to be clear, this is the 5.9 liter V8 correct? At one point i thought you said it was the V6.
it's a V6, the procedure should be similar, but I never verified that, some of the comments here might have the answer
Looks like you could have just left the AC pump connected to the bracket. Just unfasten the brace bolt and unplug the electrical connector. Eh maybe I'm wrong.
That's a good tip, thanks for commenting!
Is it equivalent to tighten to 16 or 17 foot pounds instead of 200 inch pounds (200/12=16.66)?
Would a clogged Heater Core cause engine to overheat? I replaced Thermostat and put new fluid in - It worked fine then occasionally I need to rev engine hard and then I get heat and engine temp goes to normal. Kind of scary commuting to work in -22 in rural country. -Thanks
Yes, we had that exact problem in an expedition we had, start with a good flushing, but if it's bad you might have to replace the core
Kelly Longtine Considering that 50/50 mix antifreeze (anti-boil) mixes are created with distilled water, you will not have a problem with scaling and lime build-up in your radiator. (Always avoid using water hose refills, especially from well water sources. If you don't have a 50/50 mix, use distilled water from any grocery store or pharmacy. DO NOT USE bottled water. Most of those get their flavor from wells with a high lime and calcium content.)
Having said that, the cheapest part, your thermostat, is the weakest point in the link. I recommend changing it at least every 30,000 miles. It takes very little time; Permaseal and Loctite both make a nice gasket maker that I like to spread on the paper gasket the thermostat comes with. Torque it properly and replace any and all hose clamps.
I recommend the same for the upper radiator cooling hose: Seriously, they are pieces of crap and are a poor replacement for metal tubes. Check out Summit Racing for a rock-solid replacement.
Also, and trust me on this, if your vehicle is at or over 60,000 miles, replace that thermal clutch fan; especially if you live in a predominately hot area, like Southern California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, etc.
Good luck, and always check your torque!
after replacing the water pump on my dodge ram 1500, i now have a leak that comes from one of the bolt holes. i had 4 long bolts and 4 short bolts. the leak is coming from one of the long bolt holes. i didnt think it mattered which long bolt went where as long as it fit. does it matter? maybe i should have used some RTV sealer right?
Unfortunately that could be anything from a cracked cover to a defective gasket, are you sure it's coming from the bolt and not running down from somewhere else, if it is you might try a New bolt and torque it. Hopefully it's that simple. Good Luck
owlman1963
What are the torque specs on the bolts for the water pump. As my 3.9L SFI 6cyl has an aluminum block.
Umm , step #1 missing ... DISCONNECT battery cable 1st (or run risk of shorting out charging and/or ignition system) (you know that BIG nasty spark when you short out a hot wire and wonder how many fuses and relays you just blew up , lol) ...
Is it possible to follow this video for 1994 Dodge Dakota V6 3.9L engine?
great video...But scotch brite pad and alcohol, no razors!! Yikes!! One bad move and gouge!!
Ya, just followed it on my 2001.
How do you change your fan?
Que tipo de anticongelante usa una dodge dacota 2004
Do you have to put high temp on the gasket to thermostat?
Typically you Don't want to put anything on the thermostat gasket or seal, it could actually prevent it from sealing. Unless there is major damage to sealing surface (replacement is better in this case anyway)
All this t change one hose ?
where did you order the hoses from and do you have your part numbers?
My local Napa. My other suggestion is to go to a dodge parts site that has the reference diagrams. Then use that part number to cross reference (or just order the mopar part, prices are "somewhat" more reasonable on the web)
Best way to avoid the leaky Dodge problem is by different truck .
Nothing lasts for ever man i have own Ford, Chevrolet, Nissan, Toyota any car truck will have issues sooner or later ur comment made you sound like a 10 year old kid smh hahahahaha
I have a 2002 dodge ram 1500 van 5.9L engine. My thermostat is stuck in the closed position. Is it completely necessary to remove all those components to get to the thermostat. I'm not confident in putting all the components back on properly. Any advice other then taking to someone I must pay to do it
if I can do it, you can do it....good luck, just make sure you have plenty of time
I have a 5.9L 2000 dakota, my suction/discharge hose is leaking but I cannot find it as it seems to be a discontinued part. They have other years and even the 2000 4.7L hose but not mine. It all looks the same as yours here, it is the forward most A/C line connected to the compressor and resting at the top, behind the radiator. With that black ribbed shroud on it. Does anyone know if there is a hose compatible with the 2000 5.9? The 2001 5.9? Since this Magnum engine was 'the same' until 2003. Firestone, rockauto, autozone, oreilleys, nobody seems to know what I can do (other than a junkyard, then its hit or miss if it is leaking or not). Anybody?
I have a 2000 dodge grandcaravan 3.0L , when I am driving for a while I notice smoke coming from under the hood... when I lift up the hood I see antifreeze squirting from the thermostat housing unit, what does this mean?? any help.. I know nothing about cars. I am a female. please help me, I already got the hose replaced!
my dakota is not circulating water the top hose get really hot and has a lot of pressure It's not leaking anywhere and the water pump don't seem to be bad any ideas?
I just replaced the thermostat
i need to change water pump on 97 dodge dakota
i dont see any 97s
I have a 92 Dodge Dakota with the 3.9L V6 it gushes coolant everytime I start it. So I'm Assuming it's the water pump because nothings coming from radiator or hoses and I changed the thermostat forgot the high heat stuff do I have to repoll everything to put that stuff on
Also, thermostats are probably the cheapest car part there is. I've read that the defect rate straight off the shelf is as much as %50 no matter who makes them
this will work for a 2001 dodge dakota 4.7 v8 right?
honestly I'm not sure, the pump and it's placement might be different, I'll try to look it up when I have a minute
What YEAR is this Dakota? Engine size as well?
2005, 3.9
So the year of Dakota in this video is why you removed the ac compressor and alternator? Didn't have to do this on my son-in-laws. Left them in place water pump bolts not interfering with removal!!
waterpump on 97 dakota why arent there any
Yeah its almost exactly the same as 02 I think.
Will it work on a 99 Durango 5.9 ?
Honestly I'm not sure, something tells me it's different on an 8
What size is this engine?
3.9 v6
Shouldnt have to remove A/c
👍👍👍
if the rateater leaks all over the top of the motor it runs but the fluid runs over the motor
Yes, that is what was so frustrating at first, I couldn't figure out where it was coming from until i started looking at the diagrams and tracing all the connections, then I realized where it was hiding
Yes, that is what was so frustrating at first, I couldn't figure out where it was coming from until i started looking at the diagrams and tracing all the connections, then I realized where it was hiding
Okay, had to stop when you put a wrench on the tensioner. Now, let's assume your vehicle is shut off and your keys are in your pocket. Great. Let's say that you drop a nut, bolt, or wrench and it lands on the starter, causing a short. Boom, your motor turns over and you are hands, arms, and face inside a now-running motor. It takes ten seconds to unbolt the positive terminal from the battery and provide you with an added level of safety. Assuming that just because people at oil change businesses do it all day long doesn't mean it's a safe way to work on a vehicle, and when I myself worked at a lube shop and changed belts, I insisted on disconnecting the positive terminal until the belt(s) and housing were replaced. Please stay safe and in one piece out there: Even a great surgeon can only do so much, and you'll never be as good as you were if you need something reattached.
Well put, I'll be doing that from now on. Thanks for the comment
TombstoneLizard I stated on my comment that you should remove the positive cable first. ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! The ground/negative cable should ALWAYS come OFF first; and the positive should always be PUT ON first. I humbly apologize for stating that improperly in my earlier comment. Working to remove the positive cable while the negative is still attached is a great way to cause an accidental short with your wrench, and knock the hell out of yourself or ruin electronic equipment. Such a spark around gasoline or other flammable fumes ups the danger factor exponentially.
Again, my humble apologies for stating the order of battery cable removal improperly. There is far more chance of hurting yourself doing THAT wrong then there is the chance of actually dropping something to short out on the starter.
maybe someone on here can help me i have 97 Dodge Dakota 3.9 Liter V6 i'm spraying antifreeze all over but can't find the leak does anyone have an idea if i could of blew a a line have a pin size leak in one of the hoses or worse the water pump could of gave out any suggestions would be helpful thank you
sounds like a bypass hose off of the water pump if its c a healthy sized leak
You need to make some changes. Check Avasva Solutions if you want to make it right.