Good video but if it was me I'd clean those long bolts then put a thread sealant on them..they did that from the factory because they went into a water jacket and might leak if you don't.
This was about the best vidieo I have ever seen on cars. Very simple and very EXTRA informative. I worked on cars for 40 years. So take it from me,,,,This guy know what he is talking about...Tommy
I just finished assisting with changing a water pump on a 2003 4.7 Dakota. The video was vary helpful. The only problem we had was draining the radiator. We followed the suggestion of removing radiator attachment bolts and attempting to reach the plug. Our hands are too big to get in there. After perusing the situation we realized how easy it was to remove the front bumper. All that needed done was remove the bulbs from the pumper lights and four bolts then lift off the bumper. Once done the drain plug is easily accessed.
Im doing this project right now on wifes Durango. .same engine..also while your this far into a job like this do yourself a favor and change thermostat and lower rad hose..will save you headaches later since u have to have the same parts off the engine..thank you..great video
I love you man, very informative repair video, just had my pump go on my truck (03 Durango) and will be tackling this project myself thanks to your video.
Took my 03 Durango to the shop with concerns of water pump going out. Paid $100 to be told it was fine....3 hours later....its done. Thanks for the video..this is going to be an easy job for me to do.
Done this twice on my 08. I pull the tensioner, then the water pump bolts. Remove the two fan shroud bolts and remove the fan/pump as a unit. Clamp the assembly in a vice and remove the fan from pump. Install the new pump, then the shroud. Thread the fan onto the pump. Too easy. As a side note, put anti seize on ALL threads. If you have to do it again, you'll thank me.....
This was a huge help! Did this on my 2004 Dakota 4.7L V8. One difference I had was the radiator drain plug was a half turn not quarter turn. The clutch-fan nut is a 36mm (1-7/16"). All other information was spot on. Thanks!
Blew my pump on the highway heading home. Never done a pump swap before, this video walked me through it and that was a few years ago now. Saved my ass for sure thank you.
Great tutorial! Thanks a bunch. I just followed it precisely and that job which would have taken all day with a huge learning curve was done in a couple of hours. Thanks again.
Want to share that the procedure is very similar on '04+ Durangos. The difference is that you will need to remove the fan shroud AND clutch fan nearly at the same time. You will want to remove the upper radiator hose, them remove the single bolt holding the shroud. Loosen the shroud from the mounts, and at this time you will need to drop the fan assembly through the bottom of the chassis. Once the fan is out the shroud will remove from the top of the bay. Replacing it opposite of above.
I think removing the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing is an easier way to drain the coolant. Then when filling coolant there is a bleeder valve to remove there air while still getting the coolant flowing to the upper radiator hose, also parking on a slight incline will help bleed all the air out. A lot of 4.7’s blow head gaskets and drop valve seats because of overheating from not getting all the air out of the cooling system.
Thank you very much for the informative video. We are tight on money and this video allowed me to change the water pump myself. Again thank you and God Bless.
Great video. I bought a spanner wrench from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $25 to get the fan off. Your video helped a lot...worked exactly like you showed. Keep up the good work
Thank you everyone for the compliments and support!!! Don't forget to like my video and subscribe to my channel. Also please follow me over on Facebook, Google+, Twitter, and Pinterest.
Thanks for that tip, I have been trying to find a way of taking the fan clutch off for hours using that same tool and leverage on the pulley to keep it from moving.... No luck, but now I can for using your simply technique!!
I'm at same step with mine, got the water pump non off becsuze couldnt get big nut 2 budge, thought I'd take whole unit 2 buddy's shop with large vise and get it off and NOPE, he recommends having it pressed/punched out. How did you end up getting clutch fan removed from water pump? Any guidance would be great, Thanks man. Ryan
Thank you brother from another mother you're video was excellent very informative now I feel so confident into doing this myself and not paying a mechanic
Great video, I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the word. I thought this repair may a little above my ability level. Just finished up and have to say thanks! Got a very great sense of pride doing it myself and the pump was 55 dollars, with some tools that I had to purchase and fluids it ran me 150 bucks and 4 hours. I'm guessing you saved me aroud 5-600 bucks. Great way to spend my New Years Day!
Awesome to hear, thank you so much for the feedback! I always try to keep my videos right at the beginner's level so anyone regardless of their skill set can understand. Comments like yours keeps fuelling my want to produce more videos :)
Excellent job! Thank you very much! I am very grateful to be able to finally find a professionally produced vide which and is also an accurate DIY automotive video that is this well done. In the past I've had to watch 3 or 4 videos, then piecing together the information that seems the most likely to be correct and the most logical, in order to complete my projec, which takes up a lot more time.I can not thank you enough. This is a very, very well done video. It is straight forward, and in less than 13 minutes, you are able to cover every step of the process, from beginning to end. You included everything, including a written account of the procedure and what to look for, as well as possible causes of failure of the water pump and associated structures. Your time and effort is well noted. I subscribed to your channel as well. Thank you again, Rob Carrington
My truck also heats up real quick changed the clutch fan since it was bad made a little change but now is just goes straight up The mechanics told me may be the thermostat..but one of the heater core hose broke and looks like is pumping antifreeze any recommendations you think I should change first
Quite possibly is a stuck close thermostat, a plugged coolant passage, faulty radiator cap, faulty temperature sensor, or failed impeller on the water pump. Here is a video on how to troubleshoot a faulty thermostat ua-cam.com/video/HmA0YDkQyAA/v-deo.html
I know I'm way late but I had to do this to and I bought a water pump from autozone it literally blew up within a 4 mile radius , so I took that POS back to autozone and went to napa haven't had a problem yet 👍🏼
One thing about the coolant. My daughter's Durango had the Hoat type coolant in it. And she had her oil change company "Jiffy" topping off her fluids. They were putting the Green regular antifreeze in the overflow tank. When I changed her water pump the orange Hoat came out of the engine and the Green was still in the overflow. The siphon tube to the overflow was completely clogged with curdled gunk ! So..DO NOT MIX the green with Hoat or G-05. You CAN use the Green that is approved by all manufacturers but ONLY if you thoroughly flush the system first and then stick with one color. (I know the color isn't the issue it's the type). So pick one and make sure these Oil Change or Auto shops know what type you need to top off with. P.S. Thanks for the great video !
Digitalozzie That is very true, incompatible coolants will cause issues. So it's always good to stick with the same manufacture and type to reduce any risk as it can be very costly in the end. Thank you for sharing the tip by the way, greatly appreciated!
I have the 4.7L in my 2003 ram and I am fixing to do my water pump. The only thing I was wondering is the last time I went to get/add anti-freeze the parts store said that it had to be the coolant from the dealership. I am not sure of the difference between dealer and over the counter coolant. I was wondering if you heard anything about the dodge 4.7 using 'special' coolant that only the dealer could provide. Mine was reddish orange and was about $30 bucks a gallon. Any thoughts?
This engine does require a specific type of coolant. HOAT is the type recommended by Dodge and I believe it's listed in the owner's manual. You can also use Zerex G-05 which is compatible for this application as well. You need a anti-freeze with is corrosion resistant, otherwise it will destroy the internals of the cooling system. Not all anti-freeze brands carry that particular quality. I normally wouldn't recommend venturing out of something which isn't compatible considering it may cause problems down the road.
Thanks for the reply... I was wondering since it looked like you were using regular anti-freeze in the video.. I just wanted to know for sure.. I bought some mopar anti-freeze a while back and I didn't really want to have to go buy more if I didn't have to.. Thanks again...good video too!!
OKCBruce I found prestone works, if you read the back of the jug, it will tell you what Number it is compatible with. If you go to advance auto or autozone, they can look it up and then you can look at the back of the jugs and see which one is compatible.
great video thanks a ton! Just a quick question. If I left the cap on tight when purging air from the system, would the overflow tube still let that air out ?
good job, I saved a few extra steps by not removing the upper shroud, just turn the pump half turn with the impeller facing you and you can squeeze it through the alternator and ac compressor and just stretching the shroud a little and it slides through. Took me about a hour to do it with two 10 minute warm up breaks. Going to post video on removing the fan clutch, that's where most people get hung up at.
Noticed the idler on your tensioner is metal. I'm not a fan of thermoplastic pullies, because if the bearing goes, the pulley just melts off or shatters. Where did you get yours? I haven't seen a metal replacement
My pulley didn’t have enough tension to stay in place while I tried to break the fan loose with the large wrench, does that possibly mean a bad tensioner pulley as well? Should be able to get it off tomorrow hopefully, we had a bit of an emergency breakdown and did put a gallon of water into the coolant to see where the leak was coming from after making sure it wasn’t a fire. The truck had no loss of performance or anything other than a battery light and a dinging sound with it; made it home a few miles down the road while trying to “feel” for the problem because I literally noticed nothing. But within the last block of rolling up, the truck started going up in heat and I noticed power steering going out and rough motor sounds/feelings. I’ve parked it and haven’t started it since, but the water we put in came dumping out the front of the motor from what looks like the water pump, so thank you for such a great video! It’s my first time really getting into this rig, we just paid it off and it breaks down… that’s life, taking it as a learning experience! 🤘🏻
Thanks man, this is same truck I'm doing water pump replacment on and had my pops help me with it and we got water pump off and now cant get the rod that goes out to clutch fan 2 release. What's your recommendation on getting the peg I'll call it, or post, off the water pump so can get new water pump on 2 clutch fan and back mounted? Should I put old water pump back on and new serpentine belt so theirs pressure on the ideler ? I tried bringing it to a friend with a big vise but he believe itll have to be punched or pressed out. The other option is to replace clutch fan and ideler/pulley in between clutch fan n water pump. At what point when buying parts tho, do I get the peg with all the seals and stuff in them? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the video man, u did way better then the other 30 videos I've watched. Thanks, Ryan
Question: I broke a screw of changing the thermostat. Is that thermostat housing mounted to the block? Or will that piece the housing screws on to unbolt from the block? I’m going to tear into it after work tomorrow just hoping I’m not dealing with a tap and die situation.
Thanks for your help. It turned out to be easier than I thought. The advice to place the bolts directly into the new water pump was excellent. It saved me some heart ache.
No problem, glad to help out! Torque specs are posted in the video description. They are 40ft.lbs for the water pump bolts. I wouldn't worry about using Loctite. Considering it's only aluminum, if you ever had to replace it at the next maintenance interval, there might be issues removing the bolts.
Hello sir,i have a couple questions if you have time to answer it would be very much appreciated. 1.what torque measurements are the water pump bolts tightened too? 2.are the bolts loctited in with thread sealer ? 3.after years of use has the water pump leaked considering no rtv was used to help seal it? I am about to change the radiator,water pump,thermostat,and fan clutch on my 2004 v8 slt 4.7 dodge dakota it’s set up is exactly identical to yours.i want to ensure i will not have to go back and redo anything after assembly.your expertise would be greatly appreciated thank you sir.
Thanks for this great vid. If I may add to your excellent tutorial.... the radiator draincock can be reached by sticking your hand through the right hole in the plastic bumper valance. At least that's how it is on the Dakotas and Durangos. No need to to pull any radiator bolts. Second, don't use Vaseline on the rubber gasket. Petroleum attacks rubber over time. Use dielectric grease instead.
LOL. You can tell the author is a young guy. Everything is "Actually" and "itself". Could cut out half the video if he could say something without those two words. Aside from that, it was an informative video...but, he did not mention anything about the bleed screw to the back of the hose. I do see the fill cap is installed in the top hose. Is that a new addition by Chrysler or a mod by the owner?
You can either use a large wrench the correct size or an adjustable wrench. Make sure the wrench is firmly in place and give it a tap with hammer to jar it loose.
Great video. Thanks for posting it. One question: do any of the water pump bolts need sealant applied to the threads? I remember some of my other vehicles needing that, and some of my bolts seem to have some on them.
How do you get a double alternator into this? Do you just relocate the radiator hose to make room? I have an 07 Jeep Commander I'm trying to fit 2 alternators in... any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
@@4DIYers I already did. But I need a 12 volt side and a 15 volt side... I've noticed the Commander doesn't like 15+ volts very much. Windows stop working and 4 wheel drive system does too.
great vid. what amount of coolant/water fills the system, ive read 5 quarts, and 7. i have an 02 dakota 4.7 the water pump finally gave up after 135k miles.
Good video but if it was me I'd clean those long bolts then put a thread sealant on them..they did that from the factory because they went into a water jacket and might leak if you don't.
This was about the best vidieo I have ever seen on cars. Very simple and very EXTRA informative. I worked on cars for 40 years. So take it from me,,,,This guy know what he is talking about...Tommy
It took about 7 quarts of a 50/50 mix of coolant/water. This truck in my video had about the same mileage too actually.
Very Helpful! Thank You!
excellent excellent excellent, one of the more informative videos ive seen on UA-cam, truly a great help
People like u make my life easier, much appreciated!!
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!!! Best video on youtube explaining every step on the 4.7L engine!!
Glad it helped!
I've watched several and this is the best I've seen. Good job.
Awesome video thanks
I just finished assisting with changing a water pump on a 2003 4.7 Dakota. The video was vary helpful. The only problem we had was draining the radiator. We followed the suggestion of removing radiator attachment bolts and attempting to reach the plug. Our hands are too big to get in there.
After perusing the situation we realized how easy it was to remove the front bumper. All that needed done was remove the bulbs from the pumper lights and four bolts then lift off the bumper. Once done the drain plug is easily accessed.
Im doing this project right now on wifes Durango. .same engine..also while your this far into a job like this do yourself a favor and change thermostat and lower rad hose..will save you headaches later since u have to have the same parts off the engine..thank you..great video
+woodsracing Excellent tip, thank you for sharing!
How many hours does it take to replace the water pump trying to figure out how much my mechanic will charge for this job
Nicole Silvio Should be able to be done in about 3hrs, depends on the shop and what they have specified for replacement time.
Great video! Thank you!
I love you man, very informative repair video, just had my pump go on my truck (03 Durango) and will be tackling this project myself thanks to your video.
Torque lbs pound..?... pump
Took my 03 Durango to the shop with concerns of water pump going out. Paid $100 to be told it was fine....3 hours later....its done. Thanks for the video..this is going to be an easy job for me to do.
nice video my cluch fan is loose and coolant was leaking.you know what i gotta do thanks for the guide.
Going to do this over the weekend! Dealer wanted around $800.00 to do this job!
+Bobby Nolde and for my dakota i found a water pump for $60 lol WAY cheaper than $800
Wow should have read the comments first informative was word of the day
Lol me and my dad did our 4.7 after watching this helped out thanks
Awesome to hear and thank you for the feedback :)
Done this twice on my 08. I pull the tensioner, then the water pump bolts. Remove the two fan shroud bolts and remove the fan/pump as a unit. Clamp the assembly in a vice and remove the fan from pump. Install the new pump, then the shroud. Thread the fan onto the pump. Too easy. As a side note, put anti seize on ALL threads. If you have to do it again, you'll thank me.....
Great tips, thanks for sharing!
DUDE GREAT VIDEO!!! Thank You!!
I wish all repair videos were done as well as this one. In fact ANY tutorial video. Precise and to the point. Great job!!
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback :) This is an old video, so all my new stuff is a much better quality now.
This was a huge help!
Did this on my 2004 Dakota 4.7L V8. One difference I had was the radiator drain plug was a half turn not quarter turn. The clutch-fan nut is a 36mm (1-7/16"). All other information was spot on.
Thanks!
Very clear explanation, thanks.
+MK Hinds Thank you!
Blew my pump on the highway heading home. Never done a pump swap before, this video walked me through it and that was a few years ago now. Saved my ass for sure thank you.
Thank you so much for the feedback, greatly appreciated :)
Great tutorial! Thanks a bunch. I just followed it precisely and that job which would have taken all day with a huge learning curve was done in a couple of hours. Thanks again.
Awesome to hear and happy to help out!
Want to share that the procedure is very similar on '04+ Durangos. The difference is that you will need to remove the fan shroud AND clutch fan nearly at the same time. You will want to remove the upper radiator hose, them remove the single bolt holding the shroud. Loosen the shroud from the mounts, and at this time you will need to drop the fan assembly through the bottom of the chassis. Once the fan is out the shroud will remove from the top of the bay. Replacing it opposite of above.
I think removing the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing is an easier way to drain the coolant. Then when filling coolant there is a bleeder valve to remove there air while still getting the coolant flowing to the upper radiator hose, also parking on a slight incline will help bleed all the air out. A lot of 4.7’s blow head gaskets and drop valve seats because of overheating from not getting all the air out of the cooling system.
Where is the bleeder?
Awesome video! Thanks for the pointers. Your descriptions are clear, to the point and easy to follow.
+JP Birtz Thank you!
Thank you very much for the informative video. We are tight on money and this video allowed me to change the water pump myself. Again thank you and God Bless.
Great video. I bought a spanner wrench from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $25 to get the fan off. Your video helped a lot...worked exactly like you showed. Keep up the good work
Excellent to hear and thank you for the feedback :)
thank you so much, keep up the good videos and I will keep learning from you
Thank you everyone for the compliments and support!!! Don't forget to like my video and subscribe to my channel. Also please follow me over on Facebook, Google+, Twitter, and Pinterest.
Thanks for that tip, I have been trying to find a way of taking the fan clutch off for hours using that same tool and leverage on the pulley to keep it from moving.... No luck, but now I can for using your simply technique!!
I'm at same step with mine, got the water pump non off becsuze couldnt get big nut 2 budge, thought I'd take whole unit 2 buddy's shop with large vise and get it off and NOPE, he recommends having it pressed/punched out. How did you end up getting clutch fan removed from water pump? Any guidance would be great, Thanks man. Ryan
Thank you brother from another mother you're video was excellent very informative now I feel so confident into doing this myself and not paying a mechanic
Thank you for the feedback, always happy to help :)
Great video! Gonna come in handy when I change the pump later this week
Thank you! I have more Dakota repair videos as well and am currently producing a bunch for Rams now too.
Great video, I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the word. I thought this repair may a little above my ability level. Just finished up and have to say thanks! Got a very great sense of pride doing it myself and the pump was 55 dollars, with some tools that I had to purchase and fluids it ran me 150 bucks and 4 hours. I'm guessing you saved me aroud 5-600 bucks. Great way to spend my New Years Day!
Awesome to hear, thank you so much for the feedback! I always try to keep my videos right at the beginner's level so anyone regardless of their skill set can understand. Comments like yours keeps fuelling my want to produce more videos :)
Excellent job! Thank you very much! I am very grateful to be able to finally find a professionally produced vide which and is also an accurate DIY automotive video that is this well done. In the past I've had to watch 3 or 4 videos, then piecing together the information that seems the most likely to be correct and the most logical, in order to complete my projec, which takes up a lot more time.I can not thank you enough. This is a very, very well done video. It is straight forward, and in less than 13 minutes, you are able to cover every step of the process, from beginning to end. You included everything, including a written account of the procedure and what to look for, as well as possible causes of failure of the water pump and associated structures. Your time and effort is well noted. I subscribed to your channel as well. Thank you again, Rob Carrington
+Robin Carrington Hello Rob, thank you so much for the kind words and support. I really appreciate that!
Thanks! Great video, My exact truck and my exact problem.
Thank you :)
4DIYers this vid helped me so much. thank you. please do more vids.
Thank you and I'm always releasing new videos every week :)
Excellent video. Much appreciated. Great camera word and description. Noting bolt size definitely a plus. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful and thank you!
My truck also heats up real quick changed the clutch fan since it was bad made a little change but now is just goes straight up
The mechanics told me may be the thermostat..but one of the heater core hose broke and looks like is pumping antifreeze any recommendations you think I should change first
Quite possibly is a stuck close thermostat, a plugged coolant passage, faulty radiator cap, faulty temperature sensor, or failed impeller on the water pump. Here is a video on how to troubleshoot a faulty thermostat ua-cam.com/video/HmA0YDkQyAA/v-deo.html
I know I'm way late but I had to do this to and I bought a water pump from autozone it literally blew up within a 4 mile radius , so I took that POS back to autozone and went to napa haven't had a problem yet 👍🏼
You need to watch those economy versions, it's best to stay away from them in general. Don't forget to subscribe :)
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Nothing like a good instructor to make an intimidating job doable!
Glad to help, thank you for the feedback :)
thanks for the word. got it done. excellent video.
This was fantastic. Very clear and easy to follow. Thanks for the help.
Thank you and glad to help out! Don't forget to subscribe.
One thing about the coolant. My daughter's Durango had the Hoat type coolant in it. And she had her oil change company "Jiffy" topping off her fluids. They were putting the Green regular antifreeze in the overflow tank. When I changed her water pump the orange Hoat came out of the engine and the Green was still in the overflow. The siphon tube to the overflow was completely clogged with curdled gunk ! So..DO NOT MIX the green with Hoat or G-05. You CAN use the Green that is approved by all manufacturers but ONLY if you thoroughly flush the system first and then stick with one color. (I know the color isn't the issue it's the type). So pick one and make sure these Oil Change or Auto shops know what type you need to top off with.
P.S. Thanks for the great video !
Digitalozzie That is very true, incompatible coolants will cause issues. So it's always good to stick with the same manufacture and type to reduce any risk as it can be very costly in the end. Thank you for sharing the tip by the way, greatly appreciated!
4DIYers Hello man how are you, excellent video, but I just want to ask you if this can work in a 2005 jeep grand Cherokee laredo 4.7 motor? Thanks
dueck303 Should be almost exactly the same.
Youre a real pal. Simple basic instructions. Thanks. Good job.
Thank you :)
very very well done
Thank you :)
I have the 4.7L in my 2003 ram and I am fixing to do my water pump. The only thing I was wondering is the last time I went to get/add anti-freeze the parts store said that it had to be the coolant from the dealership. I am not sure of the difference between dealer and over the counter coolant. I was wondering if you heard anything about the dodge 4.7 using 'special' coolant that only the dealer could provide. Mine was reddish orange and was about $30 bucks a gallon.
Any thoughts?
This engine does require a specific type of coolant. HOAT is the type recommended by Dodge and I believe it's listed in the owner's manual. You can also use Zerex G-05 which is compatible for this application as well. You need a anti-freeze with is corrosion resistant, otherwise it will destroy the internals of the cooling system. Not all anti-freeze brands carry that particular quality. I normally wouldn't recommend venturing out of something which isn't compatible considering it may cause problems down the road.
Thanks for the reply... I was wondering since it looked like you were using regular anti-freeze in the video.. I just wanted to know for sure.. I bought some mopar anti-freeze a while back and I didn't really want to have to go buy more if I didn't have to.. Thanks again...good video too!!
OKCBruce I found prestone works, if you read the back of the jug, it will tell you what Number it is compatible with. If you go to advance auto or autozone, they can look it up and then you can look at the back of the jugs and see which one is compatible.
Excellent, thank you for sharing that info Eric!
can you make a video or just write in a comment where the grounding straps are supposed to go?
Very good vid. Thanks for providing so much detail information
thank you! will get mine done this weekend
Yes this man needs a tv show you actually explain things where a dumby can get it! Thank bud
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words!
Good Videos! thanks
Glad to help out :)
Best video ever!
Easy to understand!
Most important, truthful!
Thank you! I'm actually surprised for this video being so old, it still helps out a load of people. All my new stuff is much better quality now.
Awesome, thanks!!!!
Glad to help out and don't forget to subscribe :)
Worked Great! Thx
+Darryl Fennell Thank you!
I heard Swans at the end.
great video thanks a ton! Just a quick question. If I left the cap on tight when purging air from the system, would the overflow tube still let that air out ?
No, you need to leave the cap off or use the bleeding port.
Thanks! 👍🏼
@@4DIYers where is the bleeding port located at? I replaced my radiator a couple months ago and do not believe I bled the air out correctly...
good job, I saved a few extra steps by not removing the upper shroud, just turn the pump half turn with the impeller facing you and you can squeeze it through the alternator and ac compressor and just stretching the shroud a little and it slides through. Took me about a hour to do it with two 10 minute warm up breaks. Going to post video on removing the fan clutch, that's where most people get hung up at.
Thank you and great tips as well!
Well done video, thanks@
Noticed the idler on your tensioner is metal. I'm not a fan of thermoplastic pullies, because if the bearing goes, the pulley just melts off or shatters. Where did you get yours? I haven't seen a metal replacement
+cryoburned Unfortunately I can't remember the manufacturer but it was an aftermarket unit, not OEM.
Great video, I hope you made one changing the radiator. Again great video very helpful
Thank you much! Very helpful.
Happy I could help!
My pulley didn’t have enough tension to stay in place while I tried to break the fan loose with the large wrench, does that possibly mean a bad tensioner pulley as well? Should be able to get it off tomorrow hopefully, we had a bit of an emergency breakdown and did put a gallon of water into the coolant to see where the leak was coming from after making sure it wasn’t a fire. The truck had no loss of performance or anything other than a battery light and a dinging sound with it; made it home a few miles down the road while trying to “feel” for the problem because I literally noticed nothing. But within the last block of rolling up, the truck started going up in heat and I noticed power steering going out and rough motor sounds/feelings. I’ve parked it and haven’t started it since, but the water we put in came dumping out the front of the motor from what looks like the water pump, so thank you for such a great video! It’s my first time really getting into this rig, we just paid it off and it breaks down… that’s life, taking it as a learning experience! 🤘🏻
Thanks man, this is same truck I'm doing water pump replacment on and had my pops help me with it and we got water pump off and now cant get the rod that goes out to clutch fan 2 release.
What's your recommendation on getting the peg I'll call it, or post, off the water pump so can get new water pump on 2 clutch fan and back mounted? Should I put old water pump back on and new serpentine belt so theirs pressure on the ideler ? I tried bringing it to a friend with a big vise but he believe itll have to be punched or pressed out. The other option is to replace clutch fan and ideler/pulley in between clutch fan n water pump. At what point when buying parts tho, do I get the peg with all the seals and stuff in them?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the video man, u did way better then the other 30 videos I've watched. Thanks, Ryan
Thanks could not remember how to get the belt off been a while
Glad to help out :)
Question: I broke a screw of changing the thermostat. Is that thermostat housing mounted to the block? Or will that piece the housing screws on to unbolt from the block? I’m going to tear into it after work tomorrow just hoping I’m not dealing with a tap and die situation.
great video thanks!!!!
Thank you :)
Perfect vid. well done.
Thanks for your help. It turned out to be easier than I thought. The advice to place the bolts directly into the new water pump was excellent. It saved me some heart ache.
No problem and thank you for the feedback too!
@@4DIYers hey do you know where to find a diagram of where the bolts go in case they were mixed up?
What browser are you using??? Firefox???
Much appreciated-thanks for recording and informing.
Happy to help and thank you for the feedback :)
great video, thank you !!
No problem :)
Hey I mixed my bolts up, do you by chance have a diagram of which bolts go where?
Thanks for the video! But my radiator drain plug broke in half, and part of it is stuck in the radiator. How would you extract it?
Thank you. Try heating up a screw and sticking it in the plastic, should give you enough grip to get it out. Don't forget to subscribe :)
was there a torque spec on them bolts or just pretty snug ? and what about some blue Loctite on the threads ? Thanks for the vid, very helpful.
No problem, glad to help out!
Torque specs are posted in the video description. They are 40ft.lbs for the water pump bolts. I wouldn't worry about using Loctite. Considering it's only aluminum, if you ever had to replace it at the next maintenance interval, there might be issues removing the bolts.
Clear and to-the-point dude. Ah the joys of car/truck troubles huh?
Thank you! Even worse when it's winter which I'm dealing with right now :(
excellent how to video. thank you
Thank you :)
This saved me hundreds of dollars. Thank you.
Awesome to hear!
Hello sir,i have a couple questions if you have time to answer it would be very much appreciated.
1.what torque measurements are the water pump bolts tightened too?
2.are the bolts loctited in with thread sealer ?
3.after years of use has the water pump leaked considering no rtv was used to help seal it?
I am about to change the radiator,water pump,thermostat,and fan clutch on my 2004 v8 slt 4.7 dodge dakota it’s set up is exactly identical to yours.i want to ensure i will not have to go back and redo anything after assembly.your expertise would be greatly appreciated thank you sir.
Thanks!!!
Glad to help out and don't forget to subscribe!
Thanks for this great vid. If I may add to your excellent tutorial.... the radiator draincock can be reached by sticking your hand through the right hole in the plastic bumper valance. At least that's how it is on the Dakotas and Durangos. No need to to pull any radiator bolts. Second, don't use Vaseline on the rubber gasket. Petroleum attacks rubber over time. Use dielectric grease instead.
LOL. You can tell the author is a young guy. Everything is "Actually" and "itself". Could cut out half the video if he could say something without those two words. Aside from that, it was an informative video...but, he did not mention anything about the bleed screw to the back of the hose. I do see the fill cap is installed in the top hose. Is that a new addition by Chrysler or a mod by the owner?
Excellent video.
Hey how were you able to remove the fan?
You can either use a large wrench the correct size or an adjustable wrench. Make sure the wrench is firmly in place and give it a tap with hammer to jar it loose.
thank you this video helped out a lot
Excellent to hear and thank you!
Thank you again buddy water pump is in and it runs great thanks to your video
Very good video thank you
Glad to help out and thank you!
That was perfect! Thank You!
I needed this i been out of commission for months
Happy to help, hope you're having a good weekend!
very good vid thanks will save me some time
Thank you :)
Great video. Thanks for posting it. One question: do any of the water pump bolts need sealant applied to the threads? I remember some of my other vehicles needing that, and some of my bolts seem to have some on them.
Large wrench = 15", not 12" at O'reilly's. Learned this one the hard way.
Thanks man!
Glad to help out :)
Is it possible that they make electric water pump for the 4.7 magnum
How do you get a double alternator into this? Do you just relocate the radiator hose to make room? I have an 07 Jeep Commander I'm trying to fit 2 alternators in... any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Have you considered installing a higher output alternator instead?
@@4DIYers I already did. But I need a 12 volt side and a 15 volt side... I've noticed the Commander doesn't like 15+ volts very much. Windows stop working and 4 wheel drive system does too.
Good video, thank you!
+Stephen Ruel Thank you.
great vid. what amount of coolant/water fills the system, ive read 5 quarts, and 7. i have an 02 dakota 4.7 the water pump finally gave up after 135k miles.