On are way to 150K views!! So excited to see how well this video has done! Please Hit the LIKE button and SHARE, let's keep this going... Thank you so much😄. Also check out the description for links.
I have had both of these machines for a few years. For the price, I love them. My balancer's board went out within a week, and the amazon company sent me a new board immediately, for free. Then about a year ago I had to pull the cover off the balancer and adjust one of the sensors that picked up the wheel speed, but aside from that they've been amazing! One thing I'd like to mention though, is that the weights should all be in the same area on each side of the wheel. There is no reason to be adding weights all around the rim.
A Les Schwab tire store here in Modesto CA scammed my wife $1800.00 out of an alignment and tire balance and rotation on our 2000 Chevy Suburban… the job should have been a $700-$800 job max but some shops do tend to to scam women more than men…. and that is why I do most of light repairs and tires on our vehicles myself since I used to work at Sears Automotive in my early 20s… next stop for me is purchasing a tire machine for my shop at home. Great Video!! Thanks for sharing!! Greeting from California!! 🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍
You claim scammed, but what work was done? Did they have to replace parts in order to align it? When you start replacing ball joints, tie rod ends wheel bearings or control arm bushings, the bill adds up.
The machines around up or down it's whatever the closest to a quarter. So I try to use it no rounding and usually use a little bit less weight and make sure it's close as you can @ 12:00 a lot of times the machine rounds up and adds too much weight which causes the counterbalancing. There can be some weights that are not perfect and our off as well in the actual weight you're trying to put on. And sometimes if it is above the horizon and just off a little bit to the left or right you can adjust the weight accordingly..
The plastic rim caliper is usually off by half an inch. Next time you mount a tire measure the inside with a tape measure and also look for the width spec on molded into the aluminum (16x7 etc) then check with the caliper. Once I stopped trusting the caliper, my usage of the balancer became more accurate. Not that it would have helped that tire you showed, its going to be a problem either way.
Good report on the tire changing machine! I'd like to get one of those. These so-called 'dynamic' balancers fail more than they work. I went round & round with Discount Tire on a balance job on my vehicle. Went to 3 different stores, 3 different 'technicians', and 4 different balancers before finally getting it right--and this was only at 60 MPH. Even took the store manager for a ride and he didn't have an answer.
Placing weights in a Y pattern is better than placing weights directly across from heavy side. There’s a UA-cam video showing how this works. I believe it uses less weight too.
When I'm training a new tech to break down tpms sensor installed rims, I teach to have the valve stem just to the left of the duck head, that way the tire tool doesn't accidentally hit the sensor. But as long as the sensor is near the duck head, it shouldn't get damaged. When reinstalling a new tire, I tell them to have the valve stem lead the tire bead, around the rim. In other words, keep the tire bead behind the sensor stem while it's turning. When I end up with a tire that doesn't quite balance out as much as I'd like, I'll put it on the passenger side rear position. That would be the least noticeable spot for the ride quality of the vehicle. Then, hopefully, the next time it's balanced, it should balance out better. Maybe after a few thousand miles, take that tire back off and try rebalancing it dynamically, and see if it doesn't balance better.
I have to agree that using clip weights on alloy rims causes more problems than it solves. Steel clips, alloy wheel and a salt mixture on the winter goves you four mini electrolysis machines.
When I worked at a full-service gas station in the 1980's some tires were really out of balance that you had the shave the tires. Would be interesting to compare your machines measurement to a computerized machine at a tire store.
Thanks for the info and I’ve definitely heard that before. But honestly, in my experience and coworkers doing tires, those dots don’t really mean anything and you never really know where the heavy side of the rim is. If you look around where the valve stem goes either on the inside or outside, there’s usually less metal there so it isn’t always heavier.
Hey nichols if this helps your rims are usely what's off balance [use stick on wieghts and get your rim balanced] so if you line up your tire dots often no need to remove/add the weights also mounting tires try silicone spray they darn near push on the rims by hand .other wise things are just practice .and get a tire crayon so you mark where tires came off of when you do a season change over. what did your machines cost ?
if it keeps chasing weights like that it could have some water left in the tire. I've had a few times where i didn't get everything out & was dicking around with the balancer for a good hour
I wonder if there is enough flex in your wood floor to cause any issues with the balancer. You would be surprised how much those wood building floors flex. I just wonder if the spinning tire/wheel cause the balancer to bounce slightly which may cause the wonky readings? Just an thought. Great video of showcasing the machines!
Thanks! Some other ppl have pointed that out. It’s probably not the best place for it. I’ll have it on concrete in my new shop, this is a - just for now thing-.
Thanks for the video. Now you have me really thinking on this setup. Any issues with scratching or damaging new high end wheels on either the mount or balance?
Not really if you’re careful with it. The tire machine came with plastic pieces on the duck bill as well as ones you can put on the rim clamps. You can get plastic duck bills but they’re kind of flexible and don’t work that great. The balancer definitely won’t hurt a thing. Basically just take your time and maybe use a rag with the hand bar and everything should be fine. Thanks for the view!
Need to get yourself some tire crayons. Can mark references on the tire when you're shifting the tires around on the rim. Another mod you can do is buy a balancer locator laser to mount on the balancer. I have the same exact balancer, and that's my next planned project. They have them on Aliexpress for a lot cheaper than what ebay and amazon sell them for. They're the same exact products with the same shipping times, so, I'm ordering 2 from Aliexpress to mount one on the top for tack on weights, and one for the bottom to mount on sticky weights. I'm getting the laser that takes an 18650 battery, and it has a mount that the laser can detach from to charge via USB. lastly, I've been having the same problems using CK Auto weights. I need to weigh them on a scale, because it seems like I'm chasing weights on some wheels.
I don’t know if you can set your machine up for static balance. That’s how I do all of my aluminum wheels, one stick on weight in the middle of the rim. That way, I don’t have those ugly weights hammered on the outside of the rim. salt and the weights corroding the rim. Plus, you don’t crack the clearcoat on the outside of the rim, causing it to discolor and corrode more.
The machine was set on static balance for that test, I agree with the stick on weights if it’s something you care about. If it’s not the tap on weights are the way to go, super easy to put on and off and you don’t have to deal with that annoying tape that you have to scrape and clean if you’re rebalancing.
@@nicholsperformance92 I never worry about the tape left on the rim doesn’t matter. Brake cleans the spot you’re going to put the weight on wipe it off with a rag stick the weight on. Never have any problems with them coming off. Only way to go if you racing the car they don’t come off.
lol , I mean, yeah sometimes you gotta use the tire sealer… but a lot of time if you just clean the beads of the rim, you’d be surprised how many leaks you can avoid,, and my experience working tire shop honestly most of the time the leaks are around the valve stem anyhow.
Noticed your camera shook when you dropped the wheel on the floor, maybe you need to shore up the support the floor and make sure you’re not moving around when it’s checking balance
Doesn't look very cheap. Being 50% cheaper than the name brand I suppose it is though you also get a balancer included just that is about the same price as this whole set up so pretty good deal. I f I could afford it I would get one 2-3 changes and its paid for.
amzn.to/3NTwASx Check out this link, it will take you to amazon. Theres a few different versions to choose from. It might look alittle different I've had mine for awhile now and they update things.
Have you tried 14 ply and 16 ply tires. Im planning on buying a tire machine to mount my trailer tires. The tire guys keep on raising price by $5 and $10 bucks every visit. Im tired of that bs, looks like they call each other. They went from $25 to $32 and last visit was $40. Any time they are going to start charging $50 plus just to mount a tire. Today I unmounted and mounted one by hand. Unmounting with bars is not so pleasant.
If you’re going to invest, get one with the helper attachment like I have. It will really help with those pita ones. The machine itself is identical to what I used to use back when I did tires at a shop. (Thanks for the view and comment)
So definitely heard of this…I’ve done tires professionally tho and I am pretty sure that’s a myth. What I see is there’s no guarantee that every rim made in the world is always going to be heavier or lighter at the valve stem. Honestly, they’re both wildly all over the place even on the same car sometimes. “GOOD”tires are the same no matter how they’re on the rim. (Thanks for the view and comment)
@nicholsperformance92 Thanks for the reply man! Yeah I guess that would make sense tire manufacturers wouldn't know what wheel will be used or how much to add or take away where the dot is since they don't know how much the valve stem would weigh or how much the material would weigh from the hole drilled for the valve stem.
Keep believing everything you hear. When customers tell me to spin the tire. 🤦🏻♂️ so annoying. As for the chasing weights cheap machines waste more weights. I bought 11k$ machine and now one spin and done.
On are way to 150K views!! So excited to see how well this video has done! Please Hit the LIKE button and SHARE, let's keep this going... Thank you so much😄. Also check out the description for links.
I have had both of these machines for a few years. For the price, I love them. My balancer's board went out within a week, and the amazon company sent me a new board immediately, for free. Then about a year ago I had to pull the cover off the balancer and adjust one of the sensors that picked up the wheel speed, but aside from that they've been amazing! One thing I'd like to mention though, is that the weights should all be in the same area on each side of the wheel. There is no reason to be adding weights all around the rim.
A Les Schwab tire store here in Modesto CA scammed my wife $1800.00 out of an alignment and tire balance and rotation on our 2000 Chevy Suburban… the job should have been a $700-$800 job max but some shops do tend to to scam women more than men…. and that is why I do most of light repairs and tires on our vehicles myself since I used to work at Sears Automotive in my early 20s… next stop for me is purchasing a tire machine for my shop at home.
Great Video!! Thanks for sharing!!
Greeting from California!! 🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍
Even 700-800 is freaking insane.
@@frankmfeb13
tires are expensive
@alextorre_2023
What was the scam.
I have never treated one person differently than others. So idk.
@@turboflushalignment balance and rotation shouldn't be. But maybe they sold tires when the vehicle didn't need it
You claim scammed, but what work was done? Did they have to replace parts in order to align it? When you start replacing ball joints, tie rod ends wheel bearings or control arm bushings, the bill adds up.
The machines around up or down it's whatever the closest to a quarter. So I try to use it no rounding and usually use a little bit less weight and make sure it's close as you can @ 12:00 a lot of times the machine rounds up and adds too much weight which causes the counterbalancing. There can be some weights that are not perfect and our off as well in the actual weight you're trying to put on. And sometimes if it is above the horizon and just off a little bit to the left or right you can adjust the weight accordingly..
The plastic rim caliper is usually off by half an inch. Next time you mount a tire measure the inside with a tape measure and also look for the width spec on molded into the aluminum (16x7 etc) then check with the caliper. Once I stopped trusting the caliper, my usage of the balancer became more accurate. Not that it would have helped that tire you showed, its going to be a problem either way.
Good point, I think mines reasonably close, but I’ll double check next time to be sure.
Good report on the tire changing machine! I'd like to get one of those.
These so-called 'dynamic' balancers fail more than they work. I went round & round with Discount Tire on a balance job on my vehicle. Went to 3 different stores, 3 different 'technicians', and 4 different balancers before finally getting it right--and this was only at 60 MPH. Even took the store manager for a ride and he didn't have an answer.
I use a wire brush wheel on a drill at high speed to remove off any debris on the rim to make sure it's clean.
Yeah if it’s really bad that’s the way to do it, just gotta be careful.
(Thanks for the view and comment)
Placing weights in a Y pattern is better than placing weights directly across from heavy side. There’s a UA-cam video showing how this works. I believe it uses less weight too.
For a bubble balancer yeah that’s definitely the way to do it, but not with an electronic balancer.
(Thanks for the view and comment.)
When I'm training a new tech to break down tpms sensor installed rims, I teach to have the valve stem just to the left of the duck head, that way the tire tool doesn't accidentally hit the sensor. But as long as the sensor is near the duck head, it shouldn't get damaged.
When reinstalling a new tire, I tell them to have the valve stem lead the tire bead, around the rim. In other words, keep the tire bead behind the sensor stem while it's turning.
When I end up with a tire that doesn't quite balance out as much as I'd like, I'll put it on the passenger side rear position. That would be the least noticeable spot for the ride quality of the vehicle. Then, hopefully, the next time it's balanced, it should balance out better. Maybe after a few thousand miles, take that tire back off and try rebalancing it dynamically, and see if it doesn't balance better.
Yes sir, this all sounds right to me. thanks for the input.
I would like to see the machine vs. the bubble balancer.
I still use a bubble balancer with great success
A bubble machine is a joke there is w kinds of imbalance and that is only 1 dimensions tech has come a long way since 1970 and it's here to stay
@petercapuano3418 Bubble balancer is my always go to.
ua-cam.com/video/3jmk3Yn7gdE/v-deo.html, Did a compare vid if you haven't seen it yet, thx for the input.
I have to agree that using clip weights on alloy rims causes more problems than it solves. Steel clips, alloy wheel and a salt mixture on the winter goves you four mini electrolysis machines.
When I worked at a full-service gas station in the 1980's some tires were really out of balance that you had the shave the tires. Would be interesting to compare your machines measurement to a computerized machine at a tire store.
I think there is mark in tires indicating the heavy side of the tire. Then you can orient the heavy side of the tire opposite the tpms/valve stem.
Thanks for the info and I’ve definitely heard that before. But honestly, in my experience and coworkers doing tires, those dots don’t really mean anything and you never really know where the heavy side of the rim is. If you look around where the valve stem goes either on the inside or outside, there’s usually less metal there so it isn’t always heavier.
Hey nichols if this helps your rims are usely what's off balance [use stick on wieghts and get your rim balanced] so if you line up your tire dots often no need to remove/add the weights also mounting tires try silicone spray they darn near push on the rims by hand .other wise things are just practice .and get a tire crayon so you mark where tires came off of when you do a season change over. what did your machines cost ?
if it keeps chasing weights like that it could have some water left in the tire. I've had a few times where i didn't get everything out & was dicking around with the balancer for a good hour
Very good point! Another reason why I push the whole cleaning thing.
Most of the time wheel is bent or machine isn’t calibrated correctly
I wonder if there is enough flex in your wood floor to cause any issues with the balancer. You would be surprised how much those wood building floors flex. I just wonder if the spinning tire/wheel cause the balancer to bounce slightly which may cause the wonky readings? Just an thought. Great video of showcasing the machines!
Thanks! Some other ppl have pointed that out. It’s probably not the best place for it. I’ll have it on concrete in my new shop, this is a - just for now thing-.
If you have weights counter balancing each other it would seem that it's not calibrate right
Thx, I think it’s finally time. I plan on recalibrating next use.
Maybe try to use cone frome inside of the rim for better balance
On the name brands the cone usually is always inside. But with this I seem to have better fitment on out side.
@@nicholsperformance92 I see
Thanks for the video. Now you have me really thinking on this setup. Any issues with scratching or damaging new high end wheels on either the mount or balance?
Not really if you’re careful with it. The tire machine came with plastic pieces on the duck bill as well as ones you can put on the rim clamps. You can get plastic duck bills but they’re kind of flexible and don’t work that great. The balancer definitely won’t hurt a thing. Basically just take your time and maybe use a rag with the hand bar and everything should be fine. Thanks for the view!
Need to get yourself some tire crayons. Can mark references on the tire when you're shifting the tires around on the rim. Another mod you can do is buy a balancer locator laser to mount on the balancer. I have the same exact balancer, and that's my next planned project. They have them on Aliexpress for a lot cheaper than what ebay and amazon sell them for. They're the same exact products with the same shipping times, so, I'm ordering 2 from Aliexpress to mount one on the top for tack on weights, and one for the bottom to mount on sticky weights. I'm getting the laser that takes an 18650 battery, and it has a mount that the laser can detach from to charge via USB. lastly, I've been having the same problems using CK Auto weights. I need to weigh them on a scale, because it seems like I'm chasing weights on some wheels.
I probably should get some crayons. I've also heard of ppl putting lasers on these, sounds cool.
Can't believe it's been A YEAR
Times crazy like that ha. I noticed I uploaded the old tire vid in the same month... Didn't even realize it was that close.
no safety glasses required, just use your safety squints, be safe out there !!!
lol that’s why I take my safety squints everywhere I go!
I don’t know if you can set your machine up for static balance. That’s how I do all of my aluminum wheels, one stick on weight in the middle of the rim. That way, I don’t have those ugly weights hammered on the outside of the rim. salt and the weights corroding the rim. Plus, you don’t crack the clearcoat on the outside of the rim, causing it to discolor and corrode more.
The machine was set on static balance for that test, I agree with the stick on weights if it’s something you care about. If it’s not the tap on weights are the way to go, super easy to put on and off and you don’t have to deal with that annoying tape that you have to scrape and clean if you’re rebalancing.
@@nicholsperformance92 I never worry about the tape left on the rim doesn’t matter. Brake cleans the spot you’re going to put the weight on wipe it off with a rag stick the weight on. Never have any problems with them coming off. Only way to go if you racing the car they don’t come off.
We need the ghoo, corrosion on the rims is the cause of leaks, and nothing can be done about it
lol , I mean, yeah sometimes you gotta use the tire sealer… but a lot of time if you just clean the beads of the rim, you’d be surprised how many leaks you can avoid,, and my experience working tire shop honestly most of the time the leaks are around the valve stem anyhow.
Noticed your camera shook when you dropped the wheel on the floor, maybe you need to shore up the support the floor and make sure you’re not moving around when it’s checking balance
Yeah having this setup in a shed isn’t perfect. It will be on a concrete floor in the future shop plans.
Doesn't look very cheap. Being 50% cheaper than the name brand I suppose it is though you also get a balancer included just that is about the same price as this whole set up so pretty good deal. I f I could afford it I would get one 2-3 changes and its paid for.
how much did that cost?
'
amzn.to/3NTwASx Check out this link, it will take you to amazon. Theres a few different versions to choose from. It might look alittle different I've had mine for awhile now and they update things.
Does the ballancer do match ballance?
What do you mean, match balance?
Mine won’t calibrate I get a error-8 code
Thats scary I was planing on recalibrating mine tomorrow for the first time. 🫣
Hey it works what more can you ask for.😎👍
Have you tried 14 ply and 16 ply tires. Im planning on buying a tire machine to mount my trailer tires. The tire guys keep on raising price by $5 and $10 bucks every visit. Im tired of that bs, looks like they call each other. They went from $25 to $32 and last visit was $40. Any time they are going to start charging $50 plus just to mount a tire. Today I unmounted and mounted one by hand. Unmounting with bars is not so pleasant.
If you’re going to invest, get one with the helper attachment like I have. It will really help with those pita ones. The machine itself is identical to what I used to use back when I did tires at a shop. (Thanks for the view and comment)
Did you know that you're supposed to line the white dot up on the tire with the valve stem?
So definitely heard of this…I’ve done tires professionally tho and I am pretty sure that’s a myth. What I see is there’s no guarantee that every rim made in the world is always going to be heavier or lighter at the valve stem. Honestly, they’re both wildly all over the place even on the same car sometimes. “GOOD”tires are the same no matter how they’re on the rim. (Thanks for the view and comment)
@nicholsperformance92 Thanks for the reply man! Yeah I guess that would make sense tire manufacturers wouldn't know what wheel will be used or how much to add or take away where the dot is since they don't know how much the valve stem would weigh or how much the material would weigh from the hole drilled for the valve stem.
looks like old coats machines , they used to be good
Your chasing weight, just needs recalibration
Thx, I think it is finally time. I plan on doing it next use.
Keep believing everything you hear. When customers tell me to spin the tire. 🤦🏻♂️ so annoying. As for the chasing weights cheap machines waste more weights. I bought 11k$ machine and now one spin and done.
Looks like under trump we’re going to pay double the price, because of trump’s tariffs.
if it makes America great again so be it
@@JCartagena8989 good luck with that he’s going to drive US into a recession.
Buy an American one
Go away libtard
Under Harris waltz we were heading to WW3, 😢