Refinishing a Remington 700 stock
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- In this video I will be refinishing an old Remington 700 walnut stock using Birchwood-Casey's Tru-Oil. Come along with me and I will take you through the process of how I achieve a professional finish on a beautiful piece of American Black Walnut.
Enjoyed watching a skilled man working. You show the patience that regrettably is missing in many people in today’s rushed world.
I find joy in bringing out the beauty of a nice walnut stock. You just don't see it much anymore.
Unfortunately, I believe very few of our younger generation can appreciate the way well made rifle stock feels, the way it shoots and the way it looks. All of these composite materials that they color with purple, green, red etc. To me, when I carry my rifle in the woods it just means something more to me when it’s a hand made, hand finished American walnut. And you’re right, I’ve refinished brand new rifles because that factory finish is like paint nowadays. These younger guys no nothing of the famous calibers either. Like the predecessor to the 222 and the 223, the 22 Hornet!! The 1st real tack driver in my opinion.
It's so sad to see traditional workmanship go to the wayside due to the acceptance of mass production. Craftsmanship, and quality materials are becoming a thing of the past more and more.
You sir are a true Cumberland craftsmen with fine firearms…
A very professional job beautifully done.
Great video. Wow that was some nice walnut. Thanks for the video I really enjoy seeing how to bring these rifles back to better than new.
Congratulations man, you have as much experience as beauty in your work, and that doesn't come from gray hair but from years of commitment and effort. Greetings from Laredo Mexico.
Really enjoy your channel.
Thanks, I'm just getting started.
I'll be watching this one next as I've got a nice old 1951 Remmy 721 in '06.
Now the stock's not all beat up, but I'm going to see if I can make it as pretty as that one! 😏
You’re posting is interesting I’m trying to learn with true oil on a 721 b Remington that was in a 30-06 mine didn’t shoot good so I am also rebarreling mine and I am doing the job myself it’s a project that I thought I fix myself
Thank you. We are in the process of refinishing a stock on a Cooey 22 L.R. bolt action. Like you on this gun, it too has some nice wood that was covered up by the factory finish. You gave some great ideas on how to use oil on a stock.
I discovered Tru-oil many years ago and it works great. Thank you for the great video. I'm really enjoying your channel. You are living the "good life".
Fine looking Black walnut right there.
Nice work.
MY REMINGTON IS SANDED AND TOMORROW I APPLY TRU OIL. [MY FIRST REFINISH PROJECT] THANK YOU SIR I HAVE LEARNED A LOT FROM YOUR TEACHINGS. GOD BLESS
Loved this video. I want to try to do my granddads savage 16 gauge I got when he passed away. Just looking for pointers and ideas and this one was fantastic
Great video! I brought a Remington 572 and a 550-1 back from the dead. The 572 had the most beautiful tiger striped stock, made even more beautiful using your method. Unfortunately I sold it, and the 550-1, and kick myself in the rear end every time I shoot one of my 22 rifles. Btw, I was given a 581 and thanks to your video on working on the trigger group I got it shooting great! Thanks for the videos.
It does look nice I love the shiny finish. It is beautiful wood.
I have done a number of guns using their products. I find the thinner the coats with 0000 sandpaper between multiple coats the better, wiping down with a damp cotton cloth does a fine job. Really brings out the grain in the wood.Watch out for runs near the checking.
What brings the grain in the wood out?
I've watched this video 6 or 7 times, I appreciate all of your instructions. I'm working on my 1st Remington 700.
Thanks
It's nice to see that there is some practical use to these kinds of videos. I hope your stock turns out nicely. Thanks for watching.
Gorgeous wood! No stain needed.
Perfect job 👌🏻
And it is a nice video to watch
Great Job! Enjoyed the video.
Beautiful stock.
. Too bad that you don't see that kind of wood in today's rifle stocks. I guess fine walnut is becoming too expensive.
I agree. Have a friend who has a 700adl he bought in 67 in .222 mag. Today it would be considered AA fancy. Good vid. Doug
Dawn dish soap in the blue bottle work good on grease
THANK YOU THANK YOU. THANK YOU
You are quite welcome.
Nice outcome I have a pawn shop pick up in barn now it beat up I sanded all the dings out but the wood has no grain so it's getting dark walnut stain
I have a 700 BDL on its way to me and plan to redo the finish even though it looks good in the photos. I’d like to sharpen up the checkering and add a touch of darker stain to make it stand out from the natural wood of the smooth area’s.
They have a thick polyurethane finish on them. Are you going to have it chemically dipped to get it off?
@@currituck Probably sand it off but I’m not sure about the checkering. Will probably need to strip that area. I used to refinish architectural antiques and love the process. The factory finish is beautiful but with my past experience I see even more potential. I’ve got a Ruger 10/22 with a wood stock I’m working on now for practice. It’s just about ready for the first coat of Tung Oil and I’m excited about it and nervous to begin at the same time.
I'm from Millington tn howdy and thank you
Sorry for the late reply. But anyway.....Howdy!
I love tru oil like the smell too. It's one good product.
Beautiful job
Very nice
Good video. The way I do it is with clear lacquer aerosol spray, I spray 2 coats let dry then fine wet sand until smooth I'll repeat this process around 6 times and before giving last coat i fine wet sand the stock with 1000 grit wet and dry paper spray the lacquer and let it cure for 2 weeks, then I will polish the stock with car polish, it comes out really nice and the lacquer is truly hardwearing and durable.
That's the way to do it true oil is not a hard perfectly sealed finish. People use it because it's easy to apply and smells good.
What kind of car polish???
Great bob and beautiful finish. Just wondering what the polishing compound is that you used at the end and where you can get it.
So what do you do about the checkering when you're done with putting coats on the rest of the stock? Is the checkering getting oil through the tape or you gotta oil the checkering after you take the tape off? Will you have to do multiple coats to match the rest of the finish? Great video and information btw
Close to the end of the video (around the 46:30 mark) I cover this issue.
Man, that's an excellent job 👍
Thank You Jason.
You're welcome. Thanks for the tips.
Would you be kind enough to send me a link for the checkering tool please? Many thanks in advance Sir...
Certainly. This is a link to the Gunline set at Brownells. www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-tools/camp-perry-checkering-set/
So the steps as I see them is to sand from 220 to 400 grit. Apply a coat of Tru-oil. Let that dry, then wet sand. Let it dry, then apply a 2nd thin coat of Tru-oil. Let that dry, then buff with triple aught steel wool. Wipe off, and apply more coats of Tru-oil, going over it with the steel wool. Finish with a coat of Tru-oil. Let it dry, and then polish.
Thanks, excellent video. Could you tell me the name of the polishing compound and the name or model of the checkering cutter? I am going to use this method. Looks fantastic. Thank you.
Sure thing. The checkering kit I use is made by Dem-Bart- 18 line per-inch, (available through Brownell's). The polishing/buffing compound is just what I had on hand at the time, which was "Turbo Brite" brass polish. You can use any fine polishing compound.
@@CumberlandOutdoorsman Thanks for the quick reply. I just recently found your channel and I'm enjoying all the back episodes. Keep up the good work, much appreciated.
@@whiskeykilmer1866 I'm so glad that you are enjoying the videos I posted. I hope they will be of good use to you. Take Care my friend.
The first two or three coats some people thin Truoil with Mineral Spirits 50 50. It absorbs deeper into the pores.
Whats the advantage with that???
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420The oil is absorbed deeper into the pores.
Great, what kind of wood and polishing oil?
thank you sir. ive been searching youtube all day to find out how to do exactly what you just did on the same exact stock. im going to order some checkering tools and get started. what would you recommend as far as maintainence to the finish? reapply more coats of truoil like you would boiled lineseed oil or a wax type product?
You never mention, do you ever iron out scratches and dents in your stocks ?
Does it go 1 coat of tru oil and dry then sand between each and every coat or did u say you do a few coats then let dry and then sand. Sorry to misunderstand but im doing this to my 700 soon and didnt want to mess up. Thank u sir
The initial coats can be up to five deep, because you are trying to seal the wood. Depending on how porous the piece of wood you have, you might need to apply two to three coats between each sanding after the first heavy layers. When you sand each time, try not to get too aggressive. Like I mentioned in the video, you don't want to sand through the existing layers, just smooth out any runs, or imperfections.
I must have missed the part about you covering the checkering on the stock. What did you use to cover it?
How do you know which checkering tool to use? Never used on so I need to get a set to redo my stock.
Would you recommend multiple wet sandings? I've applied several coats of tru oil, did a wet sand and still have slight pores showing after last coat. Thanks
Thanks for asking. I usually apply 4-6 coats initially before wet sanding (depending on the wood and how absorbent it is). Then three before sanding again, then two, then one. As I get further along I very lightly wet sand the previous coatings. Remember you don't want to get too aggressive because you can easily sand through the finish, right into the wood.
@@CumberlandOutdoorsman Thank you Sir for the reply. I followed your direction and am very pleased with the results.
Question, when I sand the stock down with warm water and 400 grit paper do I let that dry, and then recoil or am I missing something.
Always wipe down the stock and let it dry after sanding.
@@CumberlandOutdoorsman thanks
I’m enjoying your channel. Where do you get true oil?
I have a couple of gun shops to choose from, and there's always Wal Mart. I think a standard sized bottle is around $8.00.
The "glass like surface" looks more like a plastic surface to me, almost look like fake wood. I go with tung oil and then finish with boiled linseed many coats. You can top it with some bees wax and carnuba way but it will not have that glossy layer all over the wood. It will still look like wood this way.
Just like I mentioned in the video, if you don't want the glossy finish, then just go over it with some extra fine steel wool, and then you will have a satin finish.
@@CumberlandOutdoorsman Yes you can knock down the gloss but it will still feel like a satin - plastic finish. This is subjective of course. Some people prefer the varnish type finishes over oil. I'm just one of those who like my wood to look like wood. Much of the stuff that is sold for gun stock treatment is called something with "oil" in the name but in reality it is just slow drying varnish. This is the case with Tru Oil, Finishing Oil, some Danish Oil, Some Tung Oil and more. If you know a true oil finish you can easily see the difference and how it feels to hold.
Oils are not waterproof
@@craigleibbrand7761 It doesn't need to be.
@@Thestripper1 Professional stock makers use Laurel Forge Permalyn stock finish. It SEALS the wood. Jim Cloward a Washington State highly regarded custom stock maker said in the rain you couldn't walk down the street before the finish is damaged. I've seen stocks turn WHITE hunted constantly in the rain. The oil was leeched out of them.
Some guys heat up their gun stocks before applying the oil. Thus the oil is inpregnated into the pores deeper. In reality, an oil finish is not waterproof.
hell..your hands look normal to me....mine are stained like that too
After years of working with our hands, there is sure to be some sign of wear-and-tear.
Would’ve watched keenly had it not been recorded with a potato
Sorry about that. I need to make another video with my new camera. All I had at the time was an older Canon ZR900 Dv.
Sir you'll probably never see this but I would be honored if you could jewel a rifle bolt for me if you would have time I know your busy
Unfortunately you will never achieve a factory finish with Tru Oil it will never be flat as hand rubbed oil or a lacquer.
While I cannot assume to comment on your experience with Tru-Oil, I can comment on mine. I have had better results than most factory finishes, depending on make and model. The Tru-Oil finish on the stock in the video is far superior to what was on it, and I stand by that.
This is not correct should have sanded between coats light coats to fill the pause with saw dust his coats was to thick
If you have a different method, feel free to make a video on how you do it. I would be interested to see the difference, and if the end result is any better.
Bobking4031, you're correct He needs to look at other videos to do it properly. That said Tru Oil is easy to do dispite the result.