Nicely done! I followed your method on two Russian SKS rifles and they came out beautifully (having started off in very rough shape). I only took the sandpaper to 400 grit and applied 8 coats of Tru Oil to achieve a truly amazing finish. Between coats of Tru Oil I used 0000 steel wool rather than sandpaper as I felt it would be easier to achieve uniformity.
Nice work. I'm glad it's not just me who decided not to slurry fill the grain on my old Beech stock (1980 Gamo ASI Magnum). Exactly the same as you I wanted to highlight the grain and have just put on my 14th and hopefully final. coat chasing blemishes 🤣😭. I started off stripping the lacquer and acid bleeching back to blonde. I had a bad experience with wire wool dirtying the pores, so had to sand back and acid it again. After that I just used wet and dry in the same grades as you. My last few coats I uniformed with 3000 grit between coats and now the grain really pops a beautiful natural honey colour. I'm going to leave it the week then use Renaissance Floor Wax on it. Thanks for sharing.
You can try a Product called OSMO it is a blend of natural resins and oils. It is in fact used to coat wooden flooring. The advantage is that it requirs only TWO COATS to obtain a similar finish. You must only apply though on BARE WOOD. The product does not go well with other finishes. It is very hard wearing and easily repaired if the finish gets damaged.
If you had repeated the ,hot water, and quick dry process,, you'd have ended up with a beech stock that looked like walnut with the grain ... that process needs repeated up to six times ! What raises the grain is the hot water and rapid drying .. try it next time.
From the Health SDS I found for that product (Strypit), it contains Methylal, a weaker derivative of Methylene Chloride. Sure miss the stuff! Not for amatuers, though. It was killing a number of people a year here in the U.S. (who weren't using proper respirators with organic filters, and without proper ventilation in small spaces, like windowless bathrooms), until it was banned for public sale two years ago. Special permits for commercial operations now only. But it would peel through 15 layers of latex in 20 minutes, instead of 5 layers in several hours with the latest strippers. Sadly...
Yes, you're probably right. If I'd had more experience with this sort of thing that's probably what I'd have done. But this was a one off as an experiment to see what I could do with it. It gets compliments still when people see it.
Fantastic result ! Thank you for this very friendly and informative posting. How long do you wait between coats of Tru Oil before you sand? What do you wipe the stock with after sanding? I am going to do a Mosin Nagant 91/30 just as you have done your air rifle.
Hi, I gave it about 12-18 hours between coats, it will depend on the heat and humidity wherever you are. If you have a Nagant you're probably not in the UK, so your weather will probably be better! Good luck!
Hi mate need some advice ASAP please... I've just bought same gun. As this with a hawk panorama mil dot scope. Nice scope. But.... U have just said it's twenty or so years old. My gun is same as yours no checker on body.. Never noticed when I bought it. Too excited haha.. I paid 250 for it with bag and pellets.. Advert said next been outside... What in bloody 20 years.. So have I been done mate or is it worth 250. Thanks in advance
stecartmel it's probably worth what you've paid. Google the serial number, there's a list somewhere of Weirhauch HW 97 serial numbers that will give you an idea. If it's in good condition with not much rust or pitting on the barrel and the stock is tidy with no chips or dents then you've paid a fair price. Maybe a bargain if it's in really good shape.
I have just checked it is a 2001. Things at this age I would have to put new full kit in.. So then it's 300. What would you do mate.. I feel like taking it back. Barrel fine but it's the age that's bugging me.
stecartmel strip it down and have a look. They're easy enough to take apart with the right tools. Honestly I wouldn't be too worried. A new piston seal maybe, but they're cheap enough. Some fresh grease and oil and you'll probably be fine. The spring, piston and compression tube will last tens of thousands of cycles.
you look like you did a nice job, but one major floor you need to know is that you didnt raise the grain, you may get away with it on a beech stock but not on a walnut stock, and the reason why it looks darker on the wrist is because its the end grain and takes more stain at that point than anywhere else on the stock.
Well I’m impressed, you turned that old bland chair leg into a stunning looking stock, I love how it’s darkened on the end grain, top job 👍
You've done a really nice job of that,looks very professional i must say,well done,kind regards,Phil.
Nicely done! I followed your method on two Russian SKS rifles and they came out beautifully (having started off in very rough shape). I only took the sandpaper to 400 grit and applied 8 coats of Tru Oil to achieve a truly amazing finish. Between coats of Tru Oil I used 0000 steel wool rather than sandpaper as I felt it would be easier to achieve uniformity.
It looks gorgeous! I recently did the same with my RWS Diana 34. I put TruOil on all of my firearm wood.
Great video my friend. Very helpful. Getting ready to Tru Oil finish a couple of guitar kits
Amazing job. Looks really professional. You should be so proud of that work my friend
fantastic job pal.
Nice work.
I'm glad it's not just me who decided not to slurry fill the grain on my old Beech stock (1980 Gamo ASI Magnum).
Exactly the same as you I wanted to highlight the grain and have just put on my 14th and hopefully final. coat chasing blemishes 🤣😭.
I started off stripping the lacquer and acid bleeching back to blonde.
I had a bad experience with wire wool dirtying the pores, so had to sand back and acid it again.
After that I just used wet and dry in the same grades as you.
My last few coats I uniformed with 3000 grit between coats and now the grain really pops a beautiful natural honey colour.
I'm going to leave it the week then use Renaissance Floor Wax on it.
Thanks for sharing.
EXTREMELY good job. id be happy with that straight from factory. well done mate
Lovely work, well done.
Cracking job
Looks great! A very satisfying and informative video
Looks bloody brilliant
Thanks!
Spot on job 👍🏻
You can try a Product called OSMO it is a blend of natural resins and oils. It is in fact used to coat wooden flooring. The advantage is that it requirs only TWO COATS to obtain a similar finish. You must only apply though on BARE WOOD. The product does not go well with other finishes. It is very hard wearing and easily repaired if the finish gets damaged.
Just bought a beech Ambi stock to do this with an adjustable comb and hamster..... Blimey I'm daunted... Must carry on lol
If you had repeated the ,hot water, and quick dry process,, you'd have ended up with a beech stock that looked like walnut with the grain ... that process needs repeated up to six times ! What raises the grain is the hot water and rapid drying .. try it next time.
From the Health SDS I found for that product (Strypit), it contains Methylal, a weaker derivative of Methylene Chloride. Sure miss the stuff! Not for amatuers, though. It was killing a number of people a year here in the U.S. (who weren't using proper respirators with organic filters, and without proper ventilation in small spaces, like windowless bathrooms), until it was banned for public sale two years ago. Special permits for commercial operations now only. But it would peel through 15 layers of latex in 20 minutes, instead of 5 layers in several hours with the latest strippers. Sadly...
A stain conditioner would have helped so it doesn't look blotchy
Yes, you're probably right. If I'd had more experience with this sort of thing that's probably what I'd have done. But this was a one off as an experiment to see what I could do with it. It gets compliments still when people see it.
Look s good
Fantastic result ! Thank you for this very friendly and informative posting. How long do you wait between coats of Tru Oil before you sand? What do you wipe the stock with after sanding? I am going to do a Mosin Nagant 91/30 just as you have done your air rifle.
Hi, I gave it about 12-18 hours between coats, it will depend on the heat and humidity wherever you are. If you have a Nagant you're probably not in the UK, so your weather will probably be better! Good luck!
Love the only fools sayings🤣🤣
Hi mate need some advice ASAP please... I've just bought same gun. As this with a hawk panorama mil dot scope. Nice scope. But.... U have just said it's twenty or so years old. My gun is same as yours no checker on body.. Never noticed when I bought it. Too excited haha.. I paid 250 for it with bag and pellets.. Advert said next been outside... What in bloody 20 years.. So have I been done mate or is it worth 250. Thanks in advance
stecartmel it's probably worth what you've paid. Google the serial number, there's a list somewhere of Weirhauch HW 97 serial numbers that will give you an idea. If it's in good condition with not much rust or pitting on the barrel and the stock is tidy with no chips or dents then you've paid a fair price. Maybe a bargain if it's in really good shape.
I have just checked it is a 2001. Things at this age I would have to put new full kit in.. So then it's 300. What would you do mate.. I feel like taking it back. Barrel fine but it's the age that's bugging me.
stecartmel strip it down and have a look. They're easy enough to take apart with the right tools. Honestly I wouldn't be too worried. A new piston seal maybe, but they're cheap enough. Some fresh grease and oil and you'll probably be fine. The spring, piston and compression tube will last tens of thousands of cycles.
Is walnut stain the only color that can be used?
You can use any colour you want.
you look like you did a nice job, but one major floor you need to know is that you didnt raise the grain, you may get away with it on a beech stock but not on a walnut stock, and the reason why it looks darker on the wrist is because its the end grain and takes more stain at that point than anywhere else on the stock.