Can you please share this info. I need the exact attachment that was connected perpendicularly at an angle close to 90 of the serpentine belt removal tool. I have one 2.3l. 4cyl.engine sitting in my garage trying to install a new belt after replacing the cracked tensional pulley
Would this cause a check engine to stay solid or blink ? Also my car makes a noise and sqweaks from that same area. I know it's the belt. But do I also need to replace the pulley? I have 08 Mazda 6 which is currently not op. Due to this.
That was as uninformative as possible. Showed literally the bare minimum. Only really useful for a mechanic who has access to tools not strictly nessecary. And even with additional tools, does not provide details on the most difficult parts.
I followed this advice. You turn the tensioner nut to the right not counterclockwise. I ended up unscrewing the tensioner but trying to unscrew to the left to loosen belt. Thumbs down.
dont know why but even with the tensioner turned the friggin belt would not go back on! replaced a dead alternator and the bearings in the tensioner and idler pulley. the only way i could after 2 days of hating life get the belt back on was to use a tyre pry bar to roll the belt onto the power steering pump pulley. which yes i know is the worst idea but i was out of options and now the bearing in the steering pumps screwed and making noises. i dont understand why the damn belt would not go back on like it should. i hate front wheel drive cars they are always the worst to work on!
You need to start adding the size of the engine to your video titles. You're making it seem like ALL Mazda 6 models only have a 4 cylinder engine. Apparently you forgot the 3.0L exists. Wouldn't want to buy parts from a company or get advice from a company that overlooks such important details
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
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Can you please share this info. I need the exact attachment that was connected perpendicularly at an angle close to 90 of the serpentine belt removal tool. I have one 2.3l. 4cyl.engine sitting in my garage trying to install a new belt after replacing the cracked tensional pulley
You guys never disappoint. I come back to your repair vids at least a few times a year. Hate that i need them 😅 but glad they're there.
thank you again. Your videos are the best.
New belt in the link says it is for 3.0L engine. Video demo is for 2.3L. What belt size should be for 2.3L?
These videos rock!! Thank you so much!
+Bradley Payne Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Awesome video, thanks!
Would you guys consider doing a video on the Duratec 3.0 engine variant of the Mazda 6? I can't find a tutorial anywhere!
+Andy Willson We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1AAuto.com
Hello, great, thank you!
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Gustavo Melendez
Says counterclockwise but goes clockwise
+Jiri Kalho Thanks for the feedback!
What the specific details i need to give whem ordering this belt? I need it
That’s a different looking tensioner wrench. Is it really that far down that I have to extend it like that?
Not a clear picture where you put the tool as in the other videos on this channel.
Thank you for the feedback! +Matthew Yee
@@1AAuto I took the wheel off and got access to the tensioner pulley. Mazda doesn't give much room to work with. Took 5 minutes on my Ford Ranger.
Would this cause a check engine to stay solid or blink ? Also my car makes a noise and sqweaks from that same area. I know it's the belt. But do I also need to replace the pulley? I have 08 Mazda 6 which is currently not op. Due to this.
+False UA-camr As we are unable to look at the car in person we would recommend having a local mechanic look at your vehicle.
Thank you
1:20 counter clockwise ???????????.
+Marius Greeff Thanks for catching that - she meant clockwise.
That was as uninformative as possible. Showed literally the bare minimum. Only really useful for a mechanic who has access to tools not strictly nessecary. And even with additional tools, does not provide details on the most difficult parts.
Agree bot many details for someone that has never changed a belt before I thought the same as you also
I followed this advice. You turn the tensioner nut to the right not counterclockwise. I ended up unscrewing the tensioner but trying to unscrew to the left to loosen belt. Thumbs down.
this sucks.. you attempt to obscure the tool 1/20 people actually have.. what tool is that exactly? or combination of tools?
dont know why but even with the tensioner turned the friggin belt would not go back on! replaced a dead alternator and the bearings in the tensioner and idler pulley. the only way i could after 2 days of hating life get the belt back on was to use a tyre pry bar to roll the belt onto the power steering pump pulley. which yes i know is the worst idea but i was out of options and now the bearing in the steering pumps screwed and making noises. i dont understand why the damn belt would not go back on like it should. i hate front wheel drive cars they are always the worst to work on!
Pray for me. I'm about to do mine.
It probably wasn’t fully seated on one of the lower pulleys
give me belt nambar
No help at all
You need to start adding the size of the engine to your video titles. You're making it seem like ALL Mazda 6 models only have a 4 cylinder engine. Apparently you forgot the 3.0L exists. Wouldn't want to buy parts from a company or get advice from a company that overlooks such important details
If you don't have the foresight to confirm the specs on your vehicle yourself, you really should leave the job to a professional mechanic