How to Rebuild a Tuff Torq Transmission on a John Deere JE75/JX75 Self Propelled Lawn Mower
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2020
- Learn how to remove and rebuild a Tuff Torque Transmission on John Deere JE75/JX75 Walk Behind Self Propelled Lawn Mowers. This transmission's clutch failed to engage reliably, resulting in loss of propulsion. Failure was caused by accumulation of dirt and debris between the clutch collar and drive gear cluster. This was repairable by cleaning and reassembling. This video demonstrates the inner workings of the Tuff Torque Transmission used in these, and other 5 speed self propelled lawn mowers.
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Thank you so much, I don't think I would have figured it out on my own, and I still have to put it all back together but I feel sure that the engagement lever needed grease just like you showed.
With out removing the transmission only the pulley and belt I was able to add 6 Oz of gear oil by removing the shifting arm and using a syringe. Shifting and engagement of the transmission has never been so smooth. I was having trouble with engagement and that is solved with the fresh gear oil in the transmission. Your video helped me discover the way to add gear oil with out total disassembly. Thank you
does it leak out?
Ben, you do a great job explaining the gearbox and how it works! Thanks so much for taking the time to make and post these videos!!
Outstanding tutorial on one of the more complex aspects of fixing the John Deere self propelled mower.
Very nice....they sure don’t make em like this anymore
A dose of grease on the shifter detent before transmission re-assembly is a good idea, in addition to the wheel axle bolts and on the drive/driven gears at each wheel.
Very interesting!! Thank you!
At 13:40 of the video it shows the engage leaver off and this is the place where I will be able to add an ounce of gear oil to loosen up the dried up grease and avoid splitting the transmission.
I would suggest several test fits of the cover before silicone is applied. Good video.
I did it a different way, but I like your vise grips on the belt trick!
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Thanks.
good morning excellent video almost complete, what I need to understand, how do you change the bearing of the pulley pin, thanks
That was great. Helped me a lot. However, my transmission won’t go into 5th gear, but no biggie because I wouldn’t ever use 5th gear anyway. The shifter cable is a bish to reattach and fasten though.
I am having a hell of a time getting the top half of the case back on. Any suggestions? Thanks for your videos, they were definitely helpful while swapping out a cracked deck. I decided to inspect the transmission while I had everything apart. It was not hard until the step after gluing the gasket.
The trick is to make sure the lever arms align with the internal structures they operate. If they don't mate, the halves won't come together. I used grease to hold the bits in alignment while I brought the halves carefully together.
@@whidbeyben thanks. I finally figured out that you have to wiggle the two switches using pliers to get everything aligned.
I'd be curious if you thought the dirt would also cause a lock when trying to reverse (without self-propelled engaged). Seems like the clutch could stick the opposite direction (engaged). I'd been having issues with my clutch engaging and recently started noticing issues with one or both wheel locking up. Could be worth a teardown.
Please check out this excellent video for the issue you describe. ua-cam.com/video/a9Dz-sadfAU/v-deo.html
I have an issue where both wheels are not engaging. Only the right wheel pulls. Any suggestions?
How did you get the knob holding the door on off been trying for over an hour to remove it even used penetrating oil and won’t budge
I’m not sure what knob and door you are referring to but it sounds like penetrating oil, time and vice grips can’t be wrong.
Is there another alternative grease I can use so I don't have to spend 16$ and wait 10 days to get it?
You can probably get away with any decent lithium based gear grease.
Was the control cable super stiff to shift gears before the re-grease?
Not in my particular case. Disconnect the control cable and then try to operate the shifter with the transmission end disconnected. If it is still stiff, you have corrosion in the cable and it will need to be replaced. It is also conceivable that if the gearbox is jammed full of debris, it may not shift between gear sets.
Thanks for the reply. New OEM cable but still very stiff. It’s a free JD 14SB but.... everything is covered in rust!!! Except for the deck LOL. I’m guessing it’s be sitting outside under a deck for quite a long time. Thanks for your time.
I have one just like it but my problem is that I can turn it. Meaning the rear wheels will not pivot so I can turn them. Please help
Make sure the rear pinion gears "spurs" are facing the opposite direction. Each pinion gear is tapered on one side where the washer sits. Left side washer out right washer in. Hope this helps.
Please check out this excellent video for the issue you describe: ua-cam.com/video/a9Dz-sadfAU/v-deo.html
What grease did you use inside? This will be my next service on my 14SB.
If you have a JD dealer nearby you can go there and buy the OEM transmission grease. I bought a tube of TY6341 and used it. You can also get it on Ebay/Amazon.
@@RoliO11 Thank you sir.
Hi Can you tell me does the shaft on the primary gear come apart? ours has come apart to the left hand side. Does that mean it has sheered off? If so can I get a replacement part? thank you
I’m afraid I can’t help you on that. If the drive spindle has sheared or fractured, it is probably more cost effective to replace the entire transmission because finding sub assemblies and individual bits is probably nearly impossible.
@@whidbeyben actually at green parts store you can find parts for these mowers. I found the 2 bearings i needed there.
Is there any possible way to grease the axle without complete disassembly? Mine is ancient and I'm sure needs it
There’s no grease fitting and the way they are sealed, they are probably intended to be lubricated for life, but these mowers just run forever, so what would be a life for most mowers is just midlife for these JD’s.
I've done something wrong. The wheels will not turn backwards. Any ideas?
This is likely related to the pinion gear in the wheel assembly. See this excellent video. ua-cam.com/video/a9Dz-sadfAU/v-deo.html
@@whidbeyben I found my problem. It had nothing to do with the axle pinions. I discovered my problem when I tried to mount the rubber guard on the back of the mower. The long rod goes through two holes on the bottom of the left and right mounting brackets. I threaded my rod through the hole on the left bracket only to discover that there was no hole on the right bracket. Further inspection revealed that I had installed the right bracket upside down. After fixing that problem, I was able to install the rubber guard and as a bonus, my wheels now easily roll backward. Live and learn, eh?
@@nonoandpapa That's great! Also great to share multiple modes of failure to help trouble shooting because there are many things that can go wrong in complex mechanical systems.
Why not add a grease port to the case while you have this apart!?
This is something that shouldn't require periodic regreasing like a ball joint, and might overpressurize the case. Besides, not everyone has a machine shop and are comfortable with drilling and tapping a hole to add a grease zerk.
I bought this mower in 5/2004 and have not had any problems with the drive. But, if it had a grease fitting Im sure a “Dab” of fresh grease wouldn’t hit it!
@@adriancook4113 I am going to try to add gear oil at the engage leaver point of the transmission only an ounce of fresh oil would be able to loosen up the dried up grease.