wow mate that looks like it’s going to be a top job when it’s done . i use air gun spares they seem to have a great selection of bits for most guns or the other one is kirk wood and bagnell
Great start - I cant wait to see the results. There are no short cuts to finishing either wood of steel...you get out, what you put in. Many thanks in sharing this refurbishment.
Cheers Vin, really enjoyed this..layers of staining give real depth to a finish, oil and wax finish for me ,but the wood is infront of you so you'll see things we can ,looking forward to the rest of series 👍👍
Great video and a lovely job Vin. Looking forward to seeing you polish the metal work as im about to restore an old HW77 so any tips are greatly appreciated. Thank you .
Hi vin , I expect you’ve heard of hydro dipping? I believe I’ve seen something similar done on high end shotgun barrels where it creates a greyish swirly pattern also on some swords. It may be called something else but seems similar effect to hydro dipping,. just found out it’s called pattern welding
Vincent I absolutely love this video. It was a combination of fold content meets new. When you were talking about taking the sanding to 1000 grit I immediately thought danish oil and wax. I can't wait to see the magic you work on this. Standby, i'm doing my first tote repair.
So far looking good Vin and your hard work is paying off. I know what you mean about any scratches left in any wood as they do stand out like a sore thumb. 👍
Hi Vin, Agree 100% on orbital sanders but pellets and pistons in america uses them. I would not touch it with power tools. Do it all by hand. What make of stain do you use? We always used colron as it does not leave a residue. Try scotchbrite on the metal parts. Works wonders.
A very rare breed someone that want to achieve a great finish at the cost of lots of hard work. Looks great 👍
wow mate that looks like it’s going to be a top job when it’s done . i use air gun spares they seem to have a great selection of bits for most guns or the other one is kirk wood and bagnell
Great start - I cant wait to see the results. There are no short cuts to finishing either wood of steel...you get out, what you put in. Many thanks in sharing this refurbishment.
I've decided on the easy option and sending out the HW35 for professional blacking this week.
Tru oil vin then stock conditioner with a stock wax on top i use birch wood casey great finishes vin yhanks for the video 👍👍
Great job Vince👌 I,m looking forward to the end result 😁👍
Cheers Vin, really enjoyed this..layers of staining give real depth to a finish, oil and wax finish for me ,but the wood is infront of you so you'll see things we can ,looking forward to the rest of series 👍👍
It’s looking good so far Vin! I didn’t think there’d be any meat left on the grip once you’d taken that deep stippling away but it still looks great.
Nice to see the project coming along, look forward to future up dates.
Really looking forward to seeing how this progresses, very interesting and inspiring ❤👍
Great video and a lovely job Vin. Looking forward to seeing you polish the metal work as im about to restore an old HW77 so any tips are greatly appreciated. Thank you .
Great watch. Can’t wait for the next vid on this restoration. Regards, Baz.
Looking better. I can’t wait for the next installment 👍
Hi vin , I expect you’ve heard of hydro dipping? I believe I’ve seen something similar done on high end shotgun barrels where it creates a greyish swirly pattern also on some swords. It may be called something else but seems similar effect to hydro dipping,. just found out it’s called pattern welding
Vincent I absolutely love this video. It was a combination of fold content meets new. When you were talking about taking the sanding to 1000 grit I immediately thought danish oil and wax. I can't wait to see the magic you work on this.
Standby, i'm doing my first tote repair.
Hi Vin, it's coming along nicely. Like everyone else I'm really enjoying this.
Go wild and nickel plate it.... that'll be different and it's not hard to do, a real one of a kind 95. 😁👍
Aww mate that is so tempting ...thanks for putting that idea across 👍👍👍👍
Cracking job watching with interest as I was given an old bsa which is in a similar state that I need to refurbish 👍
So far looking good Vin and your hard work is paying off. I know what you mean about any scratches left in any wood as they do stand out like a sore thumb. 👍
Looking good so far!
Wow Vin, your doing a cracking job on that 90😲, looking forward to the rest of this refurb, thumbs up pal..👍
Thank you kindly Bob, it's going to take a little while but I think you'll be pleased with the end results 👍👍👍👍
You could try Chambers for spare parts. Good luck with it.
Great series this vin 👍
Aiwaa 😘💕👍👍
Have you got a pump for adjusting the pressure? I have one that you can have a shot of if you need one.
Hi Vin, Agree 100% on orbital sanders but pellets and pistons in america uses them. I would not touch it with power tools. Do it all by hand. What make of stain do you use? We always used colron as it does not leave a residue. Try scotchbrite on the metal parts. Works wonders.
Don't forget about the ASI sniper tune please
Vin you can use a steam iron and a damp cloth to bring up any dents then you only need a light rub down !
Yup indeed for any light scratches and dents. Not for that stock though, the stippling had been whacked in with a punch.... 😉👍👍👍👍
Bluing for me every time.
Henry crank might have the parts
hello vince ,do you use a brush with a purpose to stain it , i did it many times with a sponge or ball cotton yours peter
Hi Peter, used a brush for first coat so I could load up the stain and apply it quite thickly. The following coats will be sponged on and wiped 👍👍👍
Sorry mate but there are millions of hw90's in this country and still being made for spare parts so why would you have to make parts ???
Hopefully I won't have to make anything at all, however it's handy to have the tools and capability to do so if needed 👍👍👍