Had to do these today on my 2002 wrx. 1. Using the hex is recommend but if it strips 2. You can attempt to grab the metal on the other side where the Endlink is 3. Heat up the Endlink bolt and pull out the metal ball from the Endlink assembly - vice grips that thing and then you can unbolt the bolt
This is another item where the MOOG replacement is MUCH better than OEM. Heavier duty parts - with grease zerks for long life (just grease them once in a while).
I noticed a rattle in the front driver side of my 2017 subaru legacy..around 48,000 miles on it.. thought it may be a bad strutt...but this makes alot of sense..as I think the struts would outlive the small sway bar link bushings..I will check it today... Thank you for the knowledge!
Just did this last week. All four nuts were seized. Heated things up with a torch so I could pull the boots off and used an angle grinder to cut. Replaced with Moog end links. And, of course the LCA bushings are shot. Ordered Whiteline replacements, but having the Subie shop replace. $414 for labor. OUCH!
I ordered the front links from a parts dealer. Am about to fix this soon, I wont take the wheel off. Other videos show it can be done without jacking up. 2008 Forester, with 151K. I live in the West, rust shouldn't be an issue.
Great video once again, I’ve been chasing this noise, this weekend is inner tie rod ends and ball joints, now the noisy sway links are on the list, Thank you kind sir.
This video was awesome after i changed the rack and pinion the noise started right away so i found this video bought the parts at Subaru 25 each with my friends discount he has a shop did the work myself with this video thank you so much you saved me peace of mind and money that i dont have
I know you're an expert, I know you've done it a million times before.... but christ does it make me nervous watching you place the weight of your cars,on jackstands, on essentially compacted gravel. Stay safe legend. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated.
Thanks a million I have learned so much from your videos > have a 2007 Forester the service manual is over $300.00 Chilton does not make one so I learn from watching you. Like the Snap on torque wrench pretty nifty.
The secret is to preloosen the pivots. They come so stiff you'd swear they're solid but I put a socket on the shaft and wiggled it by hand till it moved then lined up the shaft angle with the mount holes and bam! Easy.
Was set to do same repair when had intuition to check for video one last time - whammo!!,,, didnt realize needed hex in end to keep from spinning!! Thank You!!! BUT WHY DID U USE THAT TIRE AGAIN??? DUDE ITS WASTED!!! HAAAAAA
My 99 forester makes a clunk sound very time I go over a bump or turn sharply, I thought it would be one of these things as well, but it has to do with my steering rack
@@jordansewell8020 did you ever find the problem? I have aftermarket sway bars and endlinks already yet i still have the same exact symptoms . im thinking maybe it was my cv axle
Same thing happened to me today. Hex rounded out. Terrible design on Subaru's part if you ask me. The model years with the nut backing is so much easier to remove. I guess I will be going to get a cutoff wheel to finish the job.
Hi, love the videos, I'm currently upgrading the handling on my 06 XT. What length is the ending stud to stud please? I removed mine a few weeks ago while stripping the car and I have lost them now, I have got adjustable whiteline endlinks that came with the new sway bar and I don't know what length to set them at. Many thanks in advance. Keep up the good work, you're saving my thousands in mechanics bills 👍
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you for your reply. I have found that they're 60mm stud to stud. No unfortunately the whiteline ones are adjustable in length and i think it's also so they can be faced In any direction so they can be used front and back? I wish I had gotten moog ones now but another lesson learnt. Many thanks from Shropshire UK 👍
Do you happen to know if the torque spec for the bolts on the 2016 Crosstrek front stabilizer links is 44 ft lbs? I keep finding conflicting specs for this application. Planning to do them in a few days and some places say 35 ft lbs and some say 44 ft lbs.
i did my fronts which was nice and easy, my rears make no noises but the other day i noticed i could grab the rear links them selves and very easily with 2 fingers or my hand pivot them around and move them very simply... i assume they are shot or near shot if its that moveable by hand?
Can be a whole myriad of things. That being said, sway bar bushings is probably the answer you are looking for. You could also check the ball joints. Either way, disconnect the end links and give em the god ol shake test and see how much things move around. My sway bar bushings looked fine but I replaced them anyway and it was a huge improvement.
I have a 2019 Ascent, have had the clunking noise. They replaced the coil springs, but I still have the clink. They can’t reproduce the noise. Could the linkage be bad with only 40k miles?
I've had mine start rolling as I was half jacked up and it rolled off the jack, I had forgotten to pull the park brake, but luckily it didn't cause an issue. Scared the shit out of me though lol.
your videos helped a lot. thanks. however, one question: do i need to jack up the car on both sides at the front, or is jacking up the car on one side (the one on which you replace the link) also ok? (i was asking myself, if there would be too much tension on the sway bar, if the car is just jacked up at one point, resulting in some kind of warping and the front axis not being symmetric causing that the link will be hard to be removed). thanks
I had a shop replace the passenger rear sway bar link and now the drivers rear just broke do I need to lube the new link before I put the bolts back in I have a 03 wrx wagon
do you need to lift the front end or can you lift one wheel at a time? I am guessing the stablizer will have a force and act against you if you did one side at a time. I am doing the ball joints on my 09 Forester, and bought new control arms with bushings, new stabilizer links, and the CTA special tool for ball joints.
Hey Mr. Subaru, I have a couple questions. One, is the job very similar on the rear of the car and two, does it require an alignment? My GT wagon makes some awful clunks going over little grooves in the road and it's all coming from the rear end of the car, like the trunk area. I suspect these are shot.
I'm wondering about the sway bar bushes on my MY 99 outback limited. Is it true that if your sway bar measures 14 mm diameter (with a calipers) you need 13mm in/dia bushes. I'm wondering if that's the problem with my sway bar being so loose and the bushes seem in good condition. Has the previous owner put bushes in the same in/dia as the diameter of the sway bar and hence the looseness? Because with all the weight on the rear wheels I can grab the sway bar and move it back and forth through the bushes with ease and like I said, they don't appear to be dried out and deteriorated. Can't find a vid explaining this?
MrSubaru1387 however doing so helps with sway bar preload especially if installing an aftermarket sway bar. Many companies such as Whiteline include this step in their instructions.
I have a clunking noise coming from the front driver side on my 02 wrx with 145k on stock suspension. Happens when driving more than 20 mph whether it’s smooth or rough road. I noticed that my top hat has cracked. Could a bad strut cause this clunking noise?
Hi Mr. Subaru I worked on dirt same as you. How do you work and doesn't even bug by that dirt and dust? Hehehe it's encouraging to me seeing you worked on dirt.
I've been working this way for the last 15 years. I'm used to it. This is easy. What's hard is laying in the mud, while it's raining, trying to finish a job. Haha.
Quick question what issue if the sway bar link is not in good shape... Im having a knocking sound when driving my car, but sure its not bearing...Strut I suspected but i need to know exactly what is the prob
Hey does anyone know what threading and size nut for oem end links are? I was working on mine with a tarp in the dirt and cant find the nut now. Plz help thanks
I just did this to my 2010 Outback, 193K. While I was in there was looking at the sway bar bushings, they appear fine but I imagine they've taken a beating. It looks very easy to replace, is it? And is it worth it, will I feel the difference? Thx E
Sway bar bushings are 3 bolts, I believe, then the metal band comes down with the bushing. The bushing has a slit in it, just pull it off and push the new one back on. Bolt the metal band back on. I doubt you'll feel a difference, unless you upgrade to polyurethane bushings. Even then, probably won't feel a difference. The end links make the most difference.
Hey, I know this video was posted a year ago but i have question for you. Why did you put in OEM end links? wouldn't an aftermarket polyurethane end link last longer? ....asking for a friend.
On my stock, commuter, N/A cars, I stay OEM. I did modify both my WRX and STi. I also heavily modified my Camaros, Trans Ams, GTO, G8 GT, and Z06 Corvettes when I owned them, respectively.
Hey Mr. Subaru, I've got a question for you, this was the only video on the subject I could find by you and couldn't figure out how to message you directly, I've got a fairly moderately modified 2004 Subaru Forester XT with perrin front and rear sway bars, bushing mounts, Kartboy Endlinks, Factory Option jdm sg5 forester bilstein shocks and springs, and STI steel lateral links with whiteline replacement lateral link bushings (mods that may be pertinent to conversation but more is done). My question is this, are you aware of the issue with Rear Sway Bars flipping, and how can i prevent this, it has happened to me twice now and I am concerned because last time it destroyed my RalliTek Endlinks and just happened again, I'm not sure when or how it happened, I just got under the car for random inspection and noticed it. Any help is appreciated! Thanks for all the content, I've been a fan for a while!
Hey I'm not a mechanic but I heard in another video that leaving the tire on helps to line up the links with the bar when putting on. He said you would remove the wheel only if it's in the way.
Well, just finished this job in my '08 Forester. Made a world of difference - no more clunks, nice and quiet! And I only sacrificed one tool to the tool gods, my 5 mm hex socket. It snapped as I was torquing the first nut (41 ft lb in the Forester). Had to improvise using a Torx bit of similar size. Thanks for the video!
@@MrSubaru1387 im hoping replacing these will elimanate chatter n vibration in steering wheel when left turn.. Even so slightly as changing lanes creates shutter
Very good video! I swear to god, you're one of the very few diy guys that torques EVERY thing down to spec and that's what I love about your videos.
Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
If only subaru would put the correct torque specs in the manuals lol
Thanks bro! Just saved me a potentially expensive trip to the mechanic
Had to do these today on my 2002 wrx.
1. Using the hex is recommend but if it strips
2. You can attempt to grab the metal on the other side where the Endlink is
3. Heat up the Endlink bolt and pull out the metal ball from the Endlink assembly - vice grips that thing and then you can unbolt the bolt
This is another item where the MOOG replacement is MUCH better than OEM. Heavier duty parts - with grease zerks for long life (just grease them once in a while).
Amen to that.
I noticed a rattle in the front driver side of my 2017 subaru legacy..around 48,000 miles on it.. thought it may be a bad strutt...but this makes alot of sense..as I think the struts would outlive the small sway bar link bushings..I will check it today... Thank you for the knowledge!
Just did mine this morning. Thanks for the help. 05 Forester.
Another good video. 👍🏻 thanks!
Upstate South Carolina here. I noticed the tag on the BH Outback.
Just did this last week. All four nuts were seized. Heated things up with a torch so I could pull the boots off and used an angle grinder to cut. Replaced with Moog end links. And, of course the LCA bushings are shot. Ordered Whiteline replacements, but having the Subie shop replace. $414 for labor. OUCH!
I have a ‘10 Forester. Hoping this fixes my clunks. Thanks for the video sir !!
Did it fix the problem?
I ordered the front links from a parts dealer. Am about to fix this soon, I wont take the wheel off. Other videos show it can be done without jacking up. 2008 Forester, with 151K. I live in the West, rust shouldn't be an issue.
I am about to start doing my own work on my Subaru and I am happy to have found your channel. Great work!
Thank you. 👍🏻
@@MrSubaru1387 Me too.
This is ASMR for mechanics and gear heads
Great video once again, I’ve been chasing this noise, this weekend is inner tie rod ends and ball joints, now the noisy sway links are on the list, Thank you kind sir.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
This video was awesome after i changed the rack and pinion the noise started right away so i found this video bought the parts at Subaru 25 each with my friends discount he has a shop did the work myself with this video thank you so much you saved me peace of mind and money that i dont have
You're welcome 👍🏻
I know you're an expert, I know you've done it a million times before.... but christ does it make me nervous watching you place the weight of your cars,on jackstands, on essentially compacted gravel. Stay safe legend. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated.
Perfect. Love when you get straight to it.
Thanks a million I have learned so much from your videos > have a 2007 Forester the service manual is over $300.00 Chilton does not make one so I learn from watching you.
Like the Snap on torque wrench pretty nifty.
Good repair for a commuter car. Anything more than that and I would suggest going with endlinks that are aftermarket and better made.
Easy....unless rust lol
Great video great info. Thanks for posting. Common problem on Subarus
Great video .I like how there waz no talking .made job faster thank you
That’s a cool little grinder for tight places
The secret is to preloosen the pivots. They come so stiff you'd swear they're solid but I put a socket on the shaft and wiggled it by hand till it moved then lined up the shaft angle with the mount holes and bam! Easy.
Was set to do same repair when had intuition to check for video one last time - whammo!!,,, didnt realize needed hex in end to keep from spinning!! Thank You!!! BUT WHY DID U USE THAT TIRE AGAIN??? DUDE ITS WASTED!!! HAAAAAA
Just got this diagnosed on my 16 Legacy, 59k miles.
You know you're in money when you have a Snap-On JACK
I also had to cut one of the old links off when I recently did this on my '06 Forester. Unfortunately I still have a clunk in the front end.
Michael Woodruff if you figure it out, let us know. I have a clunk in my 2006 outback I can't find. Bushings on the sway bar?
My 99 forester makes a clunk sound very time I go over a bump or turn sharply, I thought it would be one of these things as well, but it has to do with my steering rack
@@jordansewell8020 did you ever find the problem? I have aftermarket sway bars and endlinks already yet i still have the same exact symptoms . im thinking maybe it was my cv axle
Do the bushings while you're in there. Cheap and easy. Firms things up even better.
What's your opinion on using antiseize on the bolts to prevent cutting them off in the future?
Great job
Ah the olden days, before you spoke during your videos! Good video, BTW, need to do this on our legacy tomorrow
Same thing happened to me today. Hex rounded out. Terrible design on Subaru's part if you ask me. The model years with the nut backing is so much easier to remove. I guess I will be going to get a cutoff wheel to finish the job.
Hi, love the videos, I'm currently upgrading the handling on my 06 XT. What length is the ending stud to stud please? I removed mine a few weeks ago while stripping the car and I have lost them now, I have got adjustable whiteline endlinks that came with the new sway bar and I don't know what length to set them at. Many thanks in advance.
Keep up the good work, you're saving my thousands in mechanics bills 👍
Hoesntly don't know. Are they not preset to a factory length?
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you for your reply. I have found that they're 60mm stud to stud. No unfortunately the whiteline ones are adjustable in length and i think it's also so they can be faced In any direction so they can be used front and back? I wish I had gotten moog ones now but another lesson learnt.
Many thanks from Shropshire UK 👍
I know using Subaru factory parts is crucial for a LOT of jobs, but for these, is it absolutely necessary? Or can you use high end aftermarket parts?
Just replaced mine with aftermarket ones $15-20 a set with anti corrosion protection, hope they hold up, had to put new shocks & struts too (Monroe)
@@nicholasbastardo2318monroe complete struts i would stay away from too much cheaped out construction
Very useful thank you
You're welcome.
Do you happen to know if the torque spec for the bolts on the 2016 Crosstrek front stabilizer links is 44 ft lbs? I keep finding conflicting specs for this application. Planning to do them in a few days and some places say 35 ft lbs and some say 44 ft lbs.
great work. Thanks for the vid!
Yeah, don't be afraid to cut off anything you're never going to use again anyway.
i did my fronts which was nice and easy, my rears make no noises but the other day i noticed i could grab the rear links them selves and very easily with 2 fingers or my hand pivot them around and move them very simply... i assume they are shot or near shot if its that moveable by hand?
Great video, I did this job earlier today, and my end links looked to be shot, but what I still have clunking from the front end? Thanks.
Can be a whole myriad of things. That being said, sway bar bushings is probably the answer you are looking for. You could also check the ball joints. Either way, disconnect the end links and give em the god ol shake test and see how much things move around. My sway bar bushings looked fine but I replaced them anyway and it was a huge improvement.
@@TheSunshrine it actually turned out to be my ball joint on the passenger side
The bolt wasn't tight enough so it kept wobbling around
What kind of cutter is that. I need to get one and don't know what to get. I just got a air hammer and chisel set to make wheel bearings easier
Put new droplinks and control arms on subaru. Feels like new car...
Can you tell me of the 2013 Impreza base sedan has rear end links? The 5 door looks like it does but I can’t for the life of me find where they are
I have a 2019 Ascent, have had the clunking noise. They replaced the coil springs, but I still have the clink. They can’t reproduce the noise. Could the linkage be bad with only 40k miles?
Possibly a defective one.
i have a2013 impreza, do you know if the links are side specific ? thanks
Ever do the shake test and feel your car begin tipping to the point you have to hold on? Last time I worked in gravel driveway, that is for sure.
Luckily no. Always solid.
I've had mine start rolling as I was half jacked up and it rolled off the jack, I had forgotten to pull the park brake, but luckily it didn't cause an issue. Scared the shit out of me though lol.
your videos helped a lot. thanks. however, one question: do i need to jack up the car on both sides at the front, or is jacking up the car on one side (the one on which you replace the link) also ok? (i was asking myself, if there would be too much tension on the sway bar, if the car is just jacked up at one point, resulting in some kind of warping and the front axis not being symmetric causing that the link will be hard to be removed).
thanks
I *think* you'll need both wheels 'unsprung', so place jack-stands at the usual points to get the car stable.
Never mind the links, check out the wear on the tire!!
Why did the sway bar move so easily?
I had a shop replace the passenger rear sway bar link and now the drivers rear just broke do I need to lube the new link before I put the bolts back in I have a 03 wrx wagon
do you need to lift the front end or can you lift one wheel at a time? I am guessing the stablizer will have a force and act against you if you did one side at a time. I am doing the ball joints on my 09 Forester, and bought new control arms with bushings, new stabilizer links, and the CTA special tool for ball joints.
Hey Mr. Subaru, I have a couple questions. One, is the job very similar on the rear of the car and two, does it require an alignment? My GT wagon makes some awful clunks going over little grooves in the road and it's all coming from the rear end of the car, like the trunk area. I suspect these are shot.
Yes, it's nearly identical, front and rear. I'd check the rear struts as well while back there.
@@MrSubaru1387 My struts have about 50K on them so not too worried there. Thanks for getting back to me. But no alignment is needed after doing these?
@@nathanyoung8284 not really. Wouldn't hurt to get the alignment checked if it's been a while though.
Just subscribed ! Good vid !
I'm wondering about the sway bar bushes on my MY 99 outback limited.
Is it true that if your sway bar measures 14 mm diameter (with a calipers) you need 13mm in/dia bushes. I'm wondering if that's the problem with my sway bar being so loose and the bushes seem in good condition. Has the previous owner put bushes in the same in/dia as the diameter of the sway bar and hence the looseness? Because with all the weight on the rear wheels I can grab the sway bar and move it back and forth through the bushes with ease and like I said, they don't appear to be dried out and deteriorated. Can't find a vid explaining this?
Can you torque everything while on jacks? Thought endlinks needed to be torqued with wheels on the ground
You're thinking of the lower control arms. Endlinks don't need to be torqued with vehicle weight applied.
MrSubaru1387
Thanks, makes it easier. Have Moogs sitting around waiting for a dry day here. Should be easier installing without the allen head.
MrSubaru1387 however doing so helps with sway bar preload especially if installing an aftermarket sway bar. Many companies such as Whiteline include this step in their instructions.
I have a clunking noise coming from the front driver side on my 02 wrx with 145k on stock suspension. Happens when driving more than 20 mph whether it’s smooth or rough road. I noticed that my top hat has cracked. Could a bad strut cause this clunking noise?
Disassembly when in sweden, grinder
Is it possible to do this job on ramps without taking wheels off? Thx.
Yes. Cramped, but do-able.
Thanks. As usual I'm strapped for $$, is it worth it to use Moog or is that a regret waiting to happen? Thx
Moog is a reputable brand. As far as endlinks go, I think they're pretty close in price.
Should this be done for both sides together or just the side clunking?
Replace them in pairs.
ready to rot and rust again. No grease fittings.
Hi Mr. Subaru I worked on dirt same as you. How do you work and doesn't even bug by that dirt and dust? Hehehe it's encouraging to me seeing you worked on dirt.
I've been working this way for the last 15 years. I'm used to it. This is easy. What's hard is laying in the mud, while it's raining, trying to finish a job. Haha.
Would a sway bar bushing cause same clunk noise?
Never use a cutoff wheel as a grinder disc. At least if you like your body parts the way they are.
Seriously, the guy uses a torque wrench but can't be assed to not use the grinder wrong.
Seeing the plate on the car, I wonder if you knew my brother Scott R.
Scott R... Not ringing a bell right off. Subaru guy?
Do you need alignment after this install.
Quick question what issue if the sway bar link is not in good shape... Im having a knocking sound when driving my car, but sure its not bearing...Strut I suspected but i need to know exactly what is the prob
Bad sway bar end links will make a knocking/clunking noise.
I replaced mine but I am now hearing clunking on both sides when I turn
Hey does anyone know what threading and size nut for oem end links are?
I was working on mine with a tarp in the dirt and cant find the nut now. Plz help thanks
C'mon Mr Subaru, Get end links with grease fittings!
I just did this to my 2010 Outback, 193K. While I was in there was looking at the sway bar bushings, they appear fine but I imagine they've taken a beating. It looks very easy to replace, is it? And is it worth it, will I feel the difference? Thx E
Sway bar bushings are 3 bolts, I believe, then the metal band comes down with the bushing. The bushing has a slit in it, just pull it off and push the new one back on. Bolt the metal band back on. I doubt you'll feel a difference, unless you upgrade to polyurethane bushings. Even then, probably won't feel a difference. The end links make the most difference.
How much longer did those tires last? 😅
Hey, I know this video was posted a year ago but i have question for you. Why did you put in OEM end links? wouldn't an aftermarket polyurethane end link last longer? ....asking for a friend.
Because I prefer the fit and finish of OE parts.
Gotcha. I was just curious. Thanks for the reply.
greetings, if my sway bar is bent, is it better to replace it, or a heat treatment repair it?
Replace.
Do you ever replace parts with "performance" aftermarket parts or keep it Subaru OEM?
On my stock, commuter, N/A cars, I stay OEM. I did modify both my WRX and STi. I also heavily modified my Camaros, Trans Ams, GTO, G8 GT, and Z06 Corvettes when I owned them, respectively.
Hey Mr. Subaru, I've got a question for you, this was the only video on the subject I could find by you and couldn't figure out how to message you directly, I've got a fairly moderately modified 2004 Subaru Forester XT with perrin front and rear sway bars, bushing mounts, Kartboy Endlinks, Factory Option jdm sg5 forester bilstein shocks and springs, and STI steel lateral links with whiteline replacement lateral link bushings (mods that may be pertinent to conversation but more is done). My question is this, are you aware of the issue with Rear Sway Bars flipping, and how can i prevent this, it has happened to me twice now and I am concerned because last time it destroyed my RalliTek Endlinks and just happened again, I'm not sure when or how it happened, I just got under the car for random inspection and noticed it. Any help is appreciated! Thanks for all the content, I've been a fan for a while!
Sorry. I've never seen nor heard of rear sway bars flipping.
Mine were rusted as hell i cut them as well.
I sure do miss greasable joints.
I found several good aftermarket links for my car that had greaseable fittings. One reason I didn't go with OEM.
In the process of changing mine and the the rear ones on this Subaru accept grease, not sure why the front don't.
Is there any possibilty that those endlink nuts are 16MM?
14mm
Did you put something under the sway bar so it’ll stay put or no ?
Nope. Let it flop when the end links were removed, rotated it back into position by hand when I installed the new endlinks.
@@MrSubaru1387 i just did one side at a time... No floppy bar
Can I do this job on ramps? Or do I need to remove the wheels?
Hey I'm not a mechanic but I heard in another video that leaving the tire on helps to line up the links with the bar when putting on. He said you would remove the wheel only if it's in the way.
Assuming you can get the nuts off without a problem, is it necessary to replace them or can they be reused?
They can be reused.
MrSubaru1387 thanks
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Well, just finished this job in my '08 Forester. Made a world of difference - no more clunks, nice and quiet! And I only sacrificed one tool to the tool gods, my 5 mm hex socket. It snapped as I was torquing the first nut (41 ft lb in the Forester). Had to improvise using a Torx bit of similar size. Thanks for the video!
Can you tell any difference now when driving it?
Yes. The endlinks don't clunk anymore.
@@MrSubaru1387 im hoping replacing these will elimanate chatter n vibration in steering wheel when left turn.. Even so slightly as changing lanes creates shutter
You are in SC? I'm in Spartanburg dude
Yes.
I looked at mine. They arnt there anymore
What a bad design....the 5mm hex wrench trying to hold a rusted nut/bolt pair ??? The 5mm rounded off in a heartbeat.....had to cut them out.....
Anti-seize those bolts sir!
No.
Do you do the bushings before or after links?